Installation Instructions for:
2007 - 2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0L
Step-by-step instructions for installation of
the supercharger system.
* PREMIUM GASOLINE FUEL REQUIRED *
ATTENTION!
Your MAGNUSON SUPERCHARGER kit
is sensitive to corrosion!
Use only the vehicle manufacturer
recommended coolant for your engine in
the intercooler system as well.
89-89-40-006 Rev E
Magnuson Products LLC
1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg A, Ventura, CA 93003
(805) 642-8833 phone
magnusonsuperchargers.com
INSTALLATION MANUAL
Magnuson Supercharger Kit: Toyota Tacoma 4.0L
Please take a few moments to review this manual thoroughly before you begin work: Make a quick parts
check to be certain your kit is complete (see Bill of Material (BOM) parts list inside the accessory box). If you
discover shipping damage or shortage, please call our office immediately. Take a look at exactly what you are
going to need in terms of tools, time, and experience. Review our limited warranty with care.
Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.
Magnuson Products recommend that you run a minimum of one (1) tank of premium fuel through your
vehicle prior to installation of the system to prevent any possible damage that may occur due to running the
supercharged engine on lower octane fuel.
Magnuson Products Supercharger systems are designed for engines and vehicles in “GOOD” mechanical
condition. Magnuson Products recommend that a basic engine system “Health Check” be performed prior to
the installation of this supercharger system. Be sure to check for any pending or actual OBDII codes and fix/
repair any of the stock systems/components causing these codes. If there are codes prior to the installation
they will be there after the installation.
Magnuson Products also recommend the following services to be performed on your vehicle before starting
and running the vehicle post supercharger system installation:
•
Fuel Filter change
•
Engine oil and filter change using brand name oil (organic or synthetic) and filter
Note: It is VERY IMPORTANT to use the factory specified oil viscosity. The original equipment
manufacturer has selected this grade of oil to work with your other engine systems such as hydraulic chain
tensioner and variable cam controls. Deviation from this specification may cause these systems to fail or not
function properly. Please refer to your owner’s manual for the recommended oil viscosity for your engine and
application.
On older vehicles Magnuson Products recommend these additional services to be performed:
•
Coolant system pressure test and flush. NOTE: YOU MUST USE TOYOTA SPECIFIED COOLANT
MIXTURE!
Non “Magnuson Approved” calibrations or “tuning” will Void ALL warranties and CARB certification.
Our supplied calibration is designed for use with the components provided in this kit. Any adjustment to the
intake, or exaust systems or other engine components may adversely affect engine performance and may
trigger your check engine light.
Drive belt = DAYCO #21-2973
Tools Required
Metric wrench set
Metric 3/8” and 1/2” drive metric socket set (standard & deep)
3/8” and 1/2” drive ft-lbs and in-lbs torque wrenches
Metric Allen socket set 3/8 drive
Metric Allen wrenches
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Serpentine belt tool
Funnel
Drain pan
Hose cutters
Hose clamp pliers
Safety glasses
Nut driver
Compressed air
Impact gun and 24mm impact socket
Air gun
Torx socket set 3/8 drive
Clip removal tool
Telescoping magnet
Anti-sieze assembly lube (for spark plugs)
Contact Information:
Magnuson Products LLC
Magna Charger Division
1990 Knoll Drive, Bldg A
Ventura, CA 93003
Sales/Technical Support Line
Websites
Email
(805) 642-8833
www.magnusonsuperchargers.com
[email protected]
2007 - 2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0L
Table of Contents
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
Section
1: Initial Preparation
2: Intake Manifold Removal
3: Fuel Injector Replacement
4: Spark Plug Replacement
5: Fan Shroud and Radiator Hose Removal
6: Auxiliary Drive Installation
7: Heater Hose Modifications
8: Supercharger Preparation and Installation
9: Grill Removal and Intecooler Pump Installation
10: Intercooler Reservoir and Hose Installation
11: Intercooler Pump Wiring Connections
12: Vacuum Hose and Air Cleaner Installation
13: Coolant Fill and Vehicle Testing
5
6
15
19
22
26
34
37
44
49
55
58
61
NOTE: This instruction manual follows the process we used to complete this installation on our test
vehicle. This does not imply there aren’t alternate approaches.
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Section 1: Initial Preparation
1.
The first step of the installation is to connect
the Bully Dog tuner to the OBDII port for calibration of your system to function with the supercharger. Follow the instructions in the provided
pamphlet to install your tune.
2.
Your Intercooler system is sensitive to corrosion. It’s very important to use the OEM recommended coolant mixture in your supercharger
system as well.
3.
Your system requires the use of a minimum
91 Octane gasoline fuel. This system is not compatible with E85 fuel.
Any reference to the left or right side of
the vehicle is given from the driver’s seat
perspective.
4.
Remove the negative battery cable from
the battery with a 10mm wrench. The battery is
located in the left front area of the engine compartment. Ensure that the cable, and lead are
covered with a rag or other suitable insulator to
avoid accidental connection.
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Section 2: Intake Manifold
Removal
5.
Remove the engine cover by removing the
two acorn nuts shown with arrows.
6.
Disconnect the ventilation hose shown with
an arrow. View of skid plate being removed.
7.
Disconnect the vacuum hose.
8.
Unplug the mass air flow meter connector.
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9.
Remove the wire harness clamp shown
with the arrow.
10. Remove the second wire harness clamp
shown with the arrow.
11.
Loosen the hose clamp at the air box.
12. Remove the hose clamp at the throttle body
shown with an arrow.
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13.
Remove the two bolts shown with arrows.
14.
Remove the air box.
15.
Disconnect the throttle body connector.
16. Remove the 4 bolts, and then remove the
throttle w/ motor body and gasket.
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17. Leave the throttle body connected to the
coolant hoses for now.
18.
Disconnect the fuel vapor feed hose.
19. Disconnect the brake booster hose shown
with an arrow.
20. Disconnect the ventilation hose shown with
an arrow.
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21.
Disconnect the VSV connectors.
22. Disconnect the cable connector shown with
the arrow.
23. Disconnect the ACIS connector shown.
Use electrical tape to cover this connection and
secure it to the wiring bundle as it will not be reused.
24.
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Disconnect the harness connector shown.
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25. Disconnect the cable tie for the harness
shown with an arrow.
26. Remove the 4 coolant hose clamps and
hose clamps shown with the two yellow arrows.
27. Remove the bolt that secures the bracket
shown with the arrow.
28. This bracket must be removed to gain
clearance for the supercharger.
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29. Remove the front upper bolt shown with an
arrow.
30. Remove the 2 bolts shown with arrows
which are used to secure the 2 surge tank stays.
31. Remove the bolt that holds the front side
bracket to the side of the cylinder head shown
with an arrow.
32. Remove the bolt that holds the rear bracket
to the side of the cylinder head shown with an
arrow.
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33. Remove and discard the bracket attached
to the front of the cylinder head (Bracket stamped
“A”).
Wear Safety Glasses when using Compressed air
34. CAUTION: Before proceeding, make sure
there is no dirt or debris on or around the base
of the surge tank. If there is, you must remove it
so that it will not enter the engine when the surge
tank is removed.
removed
35. Using an 8mm Allen socket, remove the 4
bolts (shown with yellow arrows) and the 2 nuts
(shown with green arrows) with a 12mm socket.
Remove the surge tank and gasket.
36. A magnet will help to remove the nuts from
their locations.
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37.
Remove the surge tank and gasket.
38. The engine is shown with the manifold
removed. Clean intake port areas with a clean
dry rag. Then use Simple Green or other appropriate degreaser to clean port surfaces. Vacuum
out any debris from the intake ports. Ensure that
nothing gets inside the combustion chamber.
It is VERY important to not contaminate your
work environment or allow any debris to fall into
the exposed ports, or engine damage can occur.
39. Cover the ports with tape. Do not cover the
studs with tape because they will be removed in
the next step.
40. Remove the studs using an E-5 internal
Torx socket. A 5 mm socket may also work if you
do not have an E-5 Torx.
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Section 3: Fuel Injector
Replacement
41. Remove the gas cap, and leave it off to allow fuel pressure relief.
Warning: The Fuel System is under High Pressure. Use Safety Glasses and Fuel Compatible
Gloves to prevent Personal Injury
Remove any dirt and foreign objects from the
connectors before performing this work. Do not
allow any scratches or foreign objects on the
parts when disconnecting, as the fuel tube connector has the O-ring that seals the pipe. Perform
this work by hand. Do not use any tools. Do not
forcibly bend, twist or turn the nylon tube. Protect
the disconnected parts by covering them with a
plastic bag after disconnecting them. If the fuel
tube connector and pipe are stuck, push and pull
to release them.
42. Place a rag down to catch any fuel runoff.
Remove the fuel pipe clamp shown with the arrow.
43. Pinch the tube connector, and pull the fuel
pipe out of the connector as shown.
44. Repeat the process from the two previous
steps for the No. 2 fuel pipe shown with an arrow.
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45. Disconnect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors.
46. Remove the 6 bolts holding the fuel delivery
pipes in place.
47. Remove the fuel delivery pipes together
with the 6 fuel injectors.
48. This photo shows the fuel delivery pipes,
and the OEM fuel injectors along with the provided fuel injectors shown with an arrow.
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49. Pull the 6 injectors out of the delivery pipe.
Discard the injectors as they will be replaced
with new higher flow injectors. The old injectors
should be saved for the customer.
NOTE: The new injectors have Mustard colored
bodies, while the OEM injectors have Blue colored bodies.
50. Install a light coat of spindle oil or gasoline
to the O-ring on the top of each new injector.
While turning the fuel injector left or right, install it
onto the fuel delivery pipe positioning the connector facing outward. Repeat for all six new injectors. Apply a light coat of spindle oil on the injector insulators. Install insulators in the lower intake
manifold
51. Inspect the injector insulators for damage
and wear. If wear or damage exists, replace the
insulator with Toyota part number 23291-23010
or equivalent superseded part.
52. If the injector insulators are not located on
the OEM injectors you will have to extract them
from the intake manifold.
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53. Clean the injector insulators and install them
onto the new injectors. Ensure that the thicker
edge of the insulator gets installed on the injector first. This will allow the injectors to get located
easier onto the intake manifold.
54. Place the fuel delivery pipe together with
the new injectors on the intake manifold. Provisionally install the 6 bolts, which are used to hold
the delivery pipe, onto the intake manifold. Check
to see that the injectors rotate smoothly. Position
the injector connectors facing outward.
55.
Torque the 6 bolts to 15 Nm (11 ft lbf).
56. Reconnect the 6 fuel injector electrical connectors. Reconnect the No. 1 and No. 2 fuel pipe
sub-assemblies to the fuel delivery pipe connectors by pushing together until the connector
makes a “click” sound. After connecting, check
that the pipe and connector are securely connected by pulling on them. Reinstall the clamps
on each connector. Re-install gas cap.
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Section 4: Spark Plug
Replacement
57. To ensure clearance to the supercharger
manifold, pry the wire loom retainer up off the
stud on the left cylinder head cover. NOTE: Do
not omit this step.
step
58. Unplug the electrical connector from each of
the 6 ignition coils.
59. Remove the 6 bolts holding the ignition coils
in place.
60.
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Remove the 6 ignition coils.
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61. Push the hose shown with the red arrow out
of the way to allow the left rear ignition coil to be
removed.
Wear Safety Glasses when using Compressed air
62. CAUTION: Blow any dirt or debris from
around the spark plugs before removing them.
63. Remove the 6 spark plugs and discard them
in a box for the customer. New colder plug will be
installed.
64. You can use a magnet to extract the spark
plugs from their bores.
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65. Set Spark Plug Gap at 0.8 mm (0.032”). A
little anti-seize on the plug threads will prevent
seizing in the future.
66. Use a piece of hose that will fit tightly
around the plug (or a spark plug socket) to hand
thread the 6 new spark plugs into place.
67. Thread the plugs in place using a socket
and extension. Torque the spark plugs to 20 Nm
(15 ft lbf).
68. Reinstall the ignition coils and the bolts and
torque them to 10 Nm (7.4 ft lbf).
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69. Reinstall the electrical connection for the
ignition coil.
Section 5: Fan Shroud and
Radiator Hose Removal
70. Remove the 7 plastic clips from the black
plastic seal cover at the top of the radiator and
set it aside for re-installation later Set aside the
seal cover for re-installation later.
71. Remove 4 bolts, then remove the No.1 engine under cover
CAUTION: To avoid the danger of being
burned, do not remove the radiator cap while the
engine and radiator are still hot. Thermal expansion will cause hot engine coolant and steam to
blow out from the radiator.
72. Remove the radiator cap and set it aside.
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73. Remove the service hole cover from the
engine under cover. NOTE: On some vehicles it
may be necessary to remove the skid plate. Have
a clean pan ready for coolant. Loosen the drain
plug on the radiator (shown with the arrow and
located on the right front of the engine).
74. After you have drained the radiator you will
have to drain the engine. The engine drain plugs
are located on both sides of the engine, and have
a spigot at the bottom. Once you have drained
the engine torque the plugs to 13 Nm (9.0 ft lbf).
75. Remove the cap for the coolant reservoir
tank.
76. Use a large cup to catch the coolant as you
drain the coolant reservoir tank.
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77. Remove the top radiator hose. Save for
reuse.
78. Remove the four nuts that attach the fan/
clutch to the fan pulley. Leave the fan in place for
now.
79. Remove the two bolts from the top corners
of the fan shroud and the bottom corner of the
coolant overflow tank.
80. Disconnect the coolant overflow tube from
the radiator. If the vehicle has a transmission oil
cooler, it will be necessary to remove a clip holding a fluid line to the shroud.
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81. Disconnect the plastic hose clamps shown
with the arrow if you have a transmission oil
cooler.
82. Carefully remove the fan and shroud together so you do not damage the radiator. You may
need a second person to help you with this step.
83. Note: Tape a piece of cardboard (about the
size of the radiator) to the back side of the radiator to prevent damage during subsequent steps.
84. Reinstall two of the fan nuts (finger tight) so
the fan pulley will not fall off.
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85. Remove the lower radiator hose. The hose
will not be reused. The ends of this hose are
shown with arrows.
Section 6: Auxiliary Drive
Installation
86. While releasing the belt tension by turning
the belt tensioner (shown with the arrow) counterclockwise, remove the belt from the power steering pump pulley. NOTE: It is not necessary to
completely remove the belt.
87. Remove Idler No. 1 and discard the bolt.
Keep the thin step washer (if present) and pulley
for the next step. NOTE: Some vehicles may not
have the thin step washer.
washer.
88. Here is a photo of the parts that will be installed in the location where the Idler Pulley Subassembly No.1 was just removed. After the M10
stud (shown at the bottom) is installed you will
reinstall the original smooth pulley (with the large
radius facing away from the engine) and thin
step washer (if present), the idler spacer without
a groove (smaller diameter facing away from the
engine), the 6 rib idler pulley (snap ring facing
the engine), and one of the short spacers. Temporarily install the M10 nut finger tight to hold this
assembly in place. The M10 nut will be removed
later to install the belt tensioner assembly.
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2007 - 2009 Toyota FJ Cruiser 4.0L
89. Install one of the double ended M10 studs
and snug it in place with a flat blade screwdriver
in the location where Idler Sub-assembly No.1
was removed.
90. This photo shows the Idler Pulley Sub-assembly from two steps ago located (shown with a
red arrow). Make sure to add the M10 nut finger
tight to retain this assembly. Remove Idler No. 2
(shown with a yellow arrow) and discard the bolt.
Keep the thin step washer (if present) and pulley
for a later step. NOTE: do not mistake Idler No. 2
for the tensioner pulley.
91. Here is a photo of the parts that will be
installed in the location where the Idler Pulley
Sub-assembly No. 2 was just removed. Reinstall
the original smooth pulley (with the large radius facing away from the engine) and thin step
washer (if present), the idler spacer with a groove
(smaller diameter facing away from the engine),
the smooth idler pulley, and the other short spacer. Temporarily install the M10 nut finger tight.
The M10 nut will be removed later to install the
belt tensioner assembly.
Forward
92. Install the other double ended M10 stud in
the location where idler No. 2 was removed two
steps ago and snug it in place with a flat blade.
screwdriver.
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93. This photo shows the Idler Pulley Sub-assembly from two steps ago located. Make sure to
add the M10 nut finger tight to retain this assembly. This M10 nut will be removed later to install
the belt tensioner assembly.
94.
Reinstall the fan and generator belt.
95. Using an impact gun, remove the bolt and
washer that secures the crankshaft pulley.
96. Discard the bolt and washer. Do not remove
the pulley.
pulley
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97. This photo shows the supplied washer bolt,
and pulley that will be installed at the crankshaft
pulley location.
98. Observe the location of the keyway in the
OEM pulley (shown with an arrow). The supplied
pulley has a pin that will locate with this keyway.
99. Clean the end of the crankshaft prior to
installing the provided pulley.
100. Install the supplied crankshaft pulley in front
of the existing crankshaft pulley making certain
that the dowel pin in the new pulley is aligned
with the key way in the existing pulley using the
new supplied bolt and washer. Torque the bolt to
277 Nm (204 ft lbf).
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101. nstall the blower drive belt as shown. Refer to the diagram at the back of this manual for
proper belt routing.
102. Remove the 2 M10 nuts that were installed
previously on the two studs (shown with arrows).
103. Install the belt tensioner assembly onto
the two double ended studs previously installed.
Make sure both sides of the blower drive belt are
free between the tensioner pulley and the upper
idler pulley. Reinstall the two M10 nuts finger tight
(shown with arrows).
104. Remove the top/forward AC compressor
mounting bolt. CAUTION: Do not remove the
bolts that attach the AC lines to the compressor.
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105. Using the bolt removed in the previous step,
attach one end of the supplied tensioner support
bracket (highlighted in green behind the belt) to
the AC compressor finger tight. Attach the other
end of the support bracket to the belt tensioner
bracket using an M8x16 bolt. Tighten the two
M10 nuts, then M8x16 bolt, and finally the AC
Compressor bolt. NOTE: Notice that the bracket
goes behind the belt. Also be sure the blower
drive belt is on the bottom of the tensioner pulley.
106. Torque the M10 nuts to 39 Nm (29 ft lbf).
Torque the M8 nuts to 25 Nm (18 ft lbf). Be
sure the blower drive belt is on the bottom of the
tensioner pulley.
107. Remove 2 throttle body bypass hoses and
set the throttle body aside.
108. Remove the 2 small bypass hoses, and
the larger bypass hose that are attached to the
thermostat water manifold. It is suggested that a
diagram be made showing where all the hoses
go. Some vehicles may also have 2 oil cooler
hoses to remove (shown with red arrows).
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109. Remove and discard the 5 bolts attaching
the thermostat water manifold to the engine.
Make sure the 2 O-rings remain on the engine.
110. Apply Lubriplate grease to the inside bore
of the provided water spacer pipe (shown with
a red arrow) and slide it over the OEM O-ring
location (shown with a green arrow). Ensure that
the O-ring does not get pinched while sliding
the water pipe spacer in place. Install the small
provided O-ring (shown with the blue arrow) onto
the supplied water pipe spacer. Apply a small
amount of Lubriplate grease to the O-ring and
inside the bore of the thermostat water manifold.
111. Install 3 of the provided M6x55 bolts in the
thermostat water manifold.
112. Install the supplied large O-ring in the
groove of the provided thermostat spacer, a small
amount of grease will help hold it in place, and
then place the spacer on the 3 bolts with the
O-ring facing the thermostat water manifold.
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113. Install the thermostat water manifold back
onto the engine making sure the 2 O-rings are
still in place on the engine. Start the 3 bolts, but
do not fully tighten them at this time. CAUTION:
Make sure all O-rings stay in place.
place. Using the
2 spacers (shown with arrows), place them
between the thermostat water manifold and the
engine at the 2 remaining mounting bosses and
insert the 2 remaining M6x55 bolts.
114. Torque all 5 bolts to 9 Nm (80 in lbf).
115. If the vehicle has an oil cooler, ½” will need
to be cut from the ends of the coolant lines where
they attach to the thermostat water manifold
(highlighted in green).
116. Here the hoses from the last step are being
cut.
CAUTION: IF THIS STEP IS OMITTED, THE
HOSES WILL HIT THE FAN
FAN..
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117. Reconnect all hoses, except for the radiator
hoses, to the thermostat water manifold using the
OEM spring clamp.
Section 7: Heater Hose
Modifications
118. Note the position of the existing heater
hoses and how they connect to the heater core.
119. Disconnect the two heater hoses from the
heater core barbs. Remove and retain the 4 hose
clamps and the one mender for use later.
120. Remove the hose spacers, discarding the
larger one and keeping the smaller one. Remove
the metal bracket supporting the wire harness.
Make certain that the metal bracket is not
attached to either the heater hoses or the wiring
harness.
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121. Fabricate the hoses shown in illustration
from the two new hoses and one mender that
came with the kit and the 4 hose clamps, one
mender, and one spacing salvaged from the
previous step.
122. Install the 2.5” x 9.5” hose to the top heater
core barb. Lay it across the proper existing hose.
Cut the existing hose to length. Complete the
connections.
123. Install the new 2.5”x14” hose to the bottom
heater core barb. Lay it across the proper existing
hose. Cut the existing hose to length. Complete
the connections. Apply ¾” x 6” convoluted tubing
either heater hose for abrasion protection.
124. On the left side of the engine, remove
the rear intake manifold support bracket (surge
tank stay No. 2) and replace it with the provided
support bracket. Note: the original bracket is
stamped with a “C” and the provided bracket
is stamped with a “B”. Leave the attaching
bolt finger tight. Make sure you use the same
threaded bolt hole on the engine. If the vehicle
has a manual transmission, remount the clutch
hydraulic line bracket to the new support bracket.
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125. Remove the VSV from the left rear side of
the original intake manifold (surge tank). Keep
the VSV and bolt for the next step.
126. Attach the VSV to the supplied VSV Bracket
using the stock bolt and a supplied M6 nut.
Mount the VSV/VSV bracket subassembly to the
front stud of the oil filler cap housing. Remove
the stock nut, install the M6 washer, the bracketvalve assembly, and reinstall the nut. Torque this
nut to 9 Nm (80 in lbf).
127. Plug in the electrical connector to the VSV.
128. The fuel vapor hoses were originally
connected to the VSV as shown. Disconnect
these hoses and reconnect them as shown in the
next two steps.
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129. Hose end A attaches to the hard vapor
line shown in the next step. Leave hose end B
loose for now. Hose end B will be attached to the
supercharger in a later step.
130. This illustration shows the connections for
the vapor lines fro the last step.
Section 8: Supercharger
Preparation and Installation
131. Remove the throttle body O-ring from the
intake air surge tank (shown with an arrow).
132. Here is the throttle body O-ring. Clean the
O-ring and inspect it for any damage. Replace as
necessary. Note the tab on the O-ring that will be
aligned with the slot on the new intake manifold.
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133. Install the throttle body gasket at the
location shown on the supercharger assembly.
Ensure that the alignment tab is positioned
properly.
134. Remove the intake port gasket from the
OEM air intake surge tank. CAUTION: Do not
damage the port gasket. If the gasket appears
to be damaged or excessively worn, replace the
gasket with Toyota part number 17176-0P010
or 17176-31010 or equivalent superseded part.
Install the intake gasket on the supercharger
housing (shown in this photo). The molded
gasket and O-ring should fit snugly in the grooved
recesses in the housing.
135. Turn the supercharger housing upright and
remove the 12 M6 bolts that attach the top cover.
Retain these bolts. CAUTION: Do not remove
the larger bolt between the two coolant barbs
(location shown with red arrow). Record the serial
number which is located at the yellow arrow
location. The serial number is also located on the
shipping box.
136. Carefully lift the cover up removing it from
the main housing. Note: the charge air cooler will
come out attached to the cover. It is bonded to
the cover. DO NOT SEPARATE it from the lid. Set
the assembly upside down so the foam seal is
not damaged. The sealing O-ring should remain
in the groove in the main housing.
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137. Preinstall the provided 6 special reduced
diameter shank M8 intake manifold bolts by
threading them into the main housing. By
reinstalling these bolts into the housing, the
possibility of dropping them into the engine ports
is reduced. When the bolts are fully threaded in,
they will float up and down on reduced diameter
shanks.
138. Disconnect and remove the 2 harness
clamps on the left side valve cover (one is shown
with the arrow).
139. Move the electrical harness away from
the stud locations that they were mounted to as
shown in this photo.
140. Remove the tape covering the intake ports
in the engine manifold. Make sure the surface
is clean and that all obstructions have been
removed.
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141. Carefully, position the supercharger main
housing on the intake manifold and hand start
the 6 bolts. Do not tighten at this time. CAUTION:
Before proceeding, pull the heater hoses out
from under the rear corner of the supercharger
housing.
142. Install the original 2 bolts that attach the
support brackets (2 surge tank stays) to the
supercharger housing. Do not tighten.
143. Lightly tighten the two lower bolts that
attach the 2 surge tank stays to the engine.
144. Using the 3 provided M8 bolts, install the
upper idler bracket assembly to supercharger
housing (2 places) and the engine cylinder head
boss (1 place). Do not tighten.
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145. Torque the manifold bolts to 28 Nm (21 ft
lbf) starting from the center and working your
way outwards in a criss-cross pattern.
146. Torque the 2 side support brackets at the
top and bottom to 28 Nm (21 ft lbf).
147. Torque the 3 bolts on the upper idler
assembly and the 2 M10 nuts on the lower
supercharger belt tensioner assembly to 28 Nm
(21 ft lbf).
148. After checking to make certain the
large O-ring is properly seated in the groove
in the main housing, carefully re-install the
supercharger housing top cover by lowering it
straight down. Fasten with the original 12 M6
bolts. Torque these bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft lbf)
CAUTION: If the O-ring ends have separated,
place a small spot of black RTV over the area
where they join before placing the lid in position.
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149. Finish installing the supercharger belt drive
making sure the routing is correct. There is a
larger version of this diagram at the back of this
manual.
150. Here the supercharger belt drive is being
installed.
151. Remove the cardboard from the back of the
radiator.
152. Re-install the fan and radiator shroud and
tighten all fasteners. Ensure that the tabs at
the bottom of the fan shroud engage into their
slots. Torque the fan nuts to 21 Nm (15 ft lbf).
Torque the shroud bolts to 5 Nm (44 in lbf).
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153. Re-install the top radiator hose using the
OEM clamps.
154. Install the throttle body to the supercharger
housing. Torque the 4 bolts to 11 Nm (8 ft lbf).
155. Re-connect the coolant hoses from the
throttle body to the thermostat water manifold.
156. Place a clean rag over the throttle body to
prevent dirt from entering the intake.
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157. Using the OEM spring clamps, install the
provided lower radiator hose. CAUTION: Turn the
clamps so they do not hit the fan or the belt.
158. Reconnect the hose clamp to the two hoses
shown with the arrow.
Section 9: Grill Removal and
Intecooler Pump Installation
159. Remove the radiator grill. Remove the 2
screws. Using a clip remover, remove the 2 clips.
Disengage the 5 clips and remove the radiator
grill.
160. Apply protective tape where shown.
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161. Remove the 5 clips shown.
162. Remove the 8 screws and 4 bolts .
163. Disengage the 2 claws and remove the front
bumper cover.
164. Disengage the 4 claws and remove the
plastic hood lock release lever protector.
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165. Remove the 3 bolts and the hood lock
assembly. Remove the Temperature sensor from
the radiator support. Let the hood lock assembly
hang loose on the cable. Retain these parts.
166. Disconnect the electrical connector and
remove the horns. Retain these parts.
167. Remove the 3 bolts that attach the hood
latch support bracket to the bumper and radiator
supports. Save these fasteners. The bracket will
be replaced by the new bracket supplied in the
kit.
168. The AC condenser is mounted at 4
locations, 2 at the top and 2 half way down.
Locate the two No. 2 cooler condenser cushions
and remove the upper bolt from each. Save these
bolts.
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169. Remove and save the bolts from the two
upper No. 1 cooler condenser cushions.
170. Place the provided Low Temperature
Radiator (LTR) in position in front of the AC
condenser as shown. Ensure that the plastic
plugs are removed from the upper and lower
spigots on the LTR at this time. The upper and
lower mounting tabs on the LTR align with the
bolts removed in the past two steps. Ensure that
the plugs for the spigots have been removed from
the LTR.
171. Reinstall the original condenser mounting
bolts capturing the LTR mounting tabs between
the AC condenser and the condenser cushions.
Torque these bolts to 5.5 Nm (49 in lbf).
172. This image shows the lower mounting
location for the LTR. Torque these bolts to 5.5
Nm (49 in lbf).
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173. Mount the intercooler pump to the provided
hood support bracket using the two large
provided #35 Adel Clamps and M6X16 Hex
Flange Head Bolts. Do not tighten the fasteners
at this time. HINT: It helps to hand shape the
Adel Clamps to the shape of the pump
174. Install the new hood support bracket/pump
assembly with the original fastener. Torque: 8
Nm (71 in lbf)
175. Reinstall the hood lock assembly. Torque
these three bolts to 8 Nm (71 in lbf). Reinstall
the temperature sensor to the new hood latch
bracket.
176. Trim the plastic hood lock release lever
protector as shown.
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177. Reinstall the hood lock release lever
protector.
178. Re-mount the horn with the provided
spacer, and M8X30 mm bolt as shown. Note:
This is to space the horn out away from the LTR.
Torque this bolt to 9.8 Nm (7 ft lbf) Reconnect
the electrical connector to the horn.
179. After making sure the outlet on the pump
points straight up, tighten the mounting bolts.
Torque these mounting bolts to 12 Nm (9 ft lbf).
Slide a wide band spring clamp approximately 2”
onto each end of the LTR to pump formed coolant
hose. Install this hose to the lower outlet on the
LTR and the pump outlet and position each clamp
to hold it in place.
Section 10: Intercooler Reservoir
and Hose Installation
180. There are 2 holes in the lifting bracket for
the brake master cylinder. They will be used
to mount the intercooler coolant reservoir. The
forward most of the two holes has an M6 weld nut
attached to the lifting bracket.
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181. Using 2 provided M6x20 bolts and 1 M6
nut, mount the intercooler reservoir bracket to the
2 holes in the lifting bracket. Torque these bolts to
5.5 Nm (49 in lbf).
For Manual Transmissions
182. On the left side inner fender panel, there is
a reinforcing plate to which the clutch reservoir
is attached. Remove the M8 bolt shown with an
arrow.
183. Attach the reservoir bracket brace to the
threaded hole where the bolt was removed in
the previous step using the M8 bolt from the last
step. Torque this M8 bolt to 8 Nm (71 in lbf). The
other end of the brace will attach to the upper
left side hole in the reservoir bracket when the
reservoir is mounted. Using 3 provided M6x12
bolts, mount the intercooler reservoir tank to the
reservoir bracket making sure you capture the
brace connected to the lifting bracket. Torque
these three bolts to 4 Nm (35 in lbf).
For Automatic Transmissions
184. There will either be an open M8 threaded
hole in the left side inner fender panel, or it may
have a tab on a bracket in the threaded hole as
shown.
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185. If the bracket is present, remove and flatten
the tab as shown.
186. Attach the reservoir bracket brace to the
threaded hole using the provided M8x20 bolt.
Torque the M8 bolt to 8 Nm (71 in lbf). The other
end of the brace will attach to the upper left side
hole in the reservoir bracket when the reservoir is
mounted. Remount the bracket as shown. Using
3 provided M6x12 bolts, mount the intercooler
reservoir tank to the reservoir bracket making
sure you capture the brace that was just installed
to the fender panel. Torque the M6 bolt to 4 Nm
(35 in lbf).
187. Before proceeding with the remainder of the
hose plumbing, study this hose routing diagram.
188. Take the molded hose and mark and cut it
as shown. When you cut and remove 2.5” from
each leg, you should end up with 1” on the short
leg.
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189. Insert the 90° elbow into the long leg of
the modified molded hose. Attach the 96” length
of the straight ¾” hose to the other end of the
90° elbow and secure with 2 Wide band Spring
clamps. Cut a 36” length of 1” split wire loom and
slide it on the end ¾” straight hose.
190. Connect the short end of the hose
assembly from the last step to the reservoir outlet
using a #10 screw clamp. The hose assembly
will be routed from the outlet of the reservoir
shown here, along the inner fender panel behind
the fuse box and battery. HINT: It is easier to
route the hose if you unbolt the fuse box and
temporarily move it inboard a little.
191. The hose assembly from the previous step
will continue from behind the battery through
a hole in the radiator side support shown here
(viewed from above).
192. This is the eye level view of the same
section of hose shown in the last step..
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193. Route the end of the hose from the last step
to the inlet of the intercooler pump. Trim the hose
to length and secure it to the pump inlet with
a wide band spring clamp. Keep the trimmed
hose length for the next steps.
194. Take the 4” x 60” molded coolant hose
and cut the short 4” leg as shown in. Place an
18” length of 1” split wire loom on this hose so it
starts approximately 12” from the short leg. Slide
a wide band spring clamp approximately 2” on
from the long end of this hose. Use the straight
hose mender to secure it to the remaining piece
of ¾” hose from the previous step. Secure with
the wide band spring clamps. Slide a 36” length
of split loom onto this hose assembly.
195. Install the short leg of the molded hose end
from the previous step to the right side intercooler
fitting on the supercharger housing top cover
shown. Secure it with a provided wide band
spring clamp.
196. Route the hose assembly from the previous
step across the firewall, behind the brake
master cylinder, and along side the earlier hose
assembly behind the fuse box and battery.
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197. Continue routing the hose from the previous
step through the bulkhead opening, and connect
it to the upper barb on the LTR. After trimming
it to length, secure it with a wide band spring
clamp.
198. Trim the short end of the 4” x 36” molded
hose as shown. Slide the provided Unicoil hose
shaper onto the hose and then slide a wide band
spring clamp approximately 2” onto the short leg
of the ¾” hose and a screw clamp onto the other
end.
199. Attach the short leg of the molded hose
end to the left side intercooler fitting on the
supercharger housing top cover. Secure it with a
provided wide band spring clamp.
200. Run the hose along the earlier hose to the
inlet on the reservoir. After shaping the Unicoil to
hold the hose shape, trim the remaining end as
necessary, and install it on the inlet barb of the
intercooler reservoir with the screw clamp.
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201. Using the small provided Adel clamp and a
M6X12 bolt, secure the two coolant hoses to the
boss on the rear of the supercharger housing.
202. Finally, place a 6” length of provided
split wire loom over the Unicoil to keep it from
scratching the paint.
Section 11: Intercooler Pump
Wiring Connections
203. Using the supplied M6x20 bolt preassemble
the intercooler relay to the Fuse housing as
shown.
204. Remove the bolt retaining the vehicle
ground wire to the fender, take the ground wire
from the intercooler pump relay and install it over
the vehicle ground wire and reinstall the bolt.
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205. Route the two wire connector (red and
black wires) through the opening in the radiator
support bulkhead.
206. Plug the two wire connector into the
intercooler pump. Secure the extra wire with tiewraps
207. Route the wire harness containing the
10 gauge red wire and the yellow wire along
the front of the fuse panel from the fender to
the inside of the fuse box. Note: the battery is
removed for clarity in the figure. Feed both wires
up into the fuse box through the same opening
used by the vehicle wiring harness.
208. Remove the nut that is on the B (+)
connection in the fuse panel and connect red wire
with the 6mm ring terminal from the intercooler
relay to the B (+) terminal in the fuse panel.
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209. Remove the 10-amp mini fuse labeled EFI
No. 2.
210. Install the T-tap on the original 10 amp mini
fuse.
211. Install the fuse with the T-tap back in the
same EFI location and then attach the yellow wire
to the T-tap. CAUTION: When installing the
fuse, make sure the tap is toward the left side
of the vehicle.
212. Install the 15 amp mini fuse in the
intercooler relay fuse holder.
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213. Mount the relay/ fuse assembly.
Torque this bolt to 8.0 Nm (71 in lbf)
Section 12: Vacuum Hose and Air
Cleaner Installation
214. Remove the cap shown with the arrow from
the previously removed air surge tank.
215. Install the cap from the previous step on
the forward 3/8”barb (labeled “Vacuum Cap” in
this illustration) on the supercharger housing.
Connect the EVAP hose that comes from the
VSV (Previously referred to as hose end B) to the
remaining 3/8” barb on the supercharger housing
(labeled “Purge Hose” in this illustration).
216. Finally, connect the ventilation hose that
was disconnected in step #20 to the 3/8” barb
that is on the bottom of housing supercharger
housing.
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217. Using a M6x16 bolt, install the provided air
box bracket to the right side cylinder head cover
finger tight.
218. Plug in the throttle control connection.
219. Release the four clamps holding the air box
lid.
220. Replace the OEM filter (on the left) with
the provided filter. Secure the lid with the four
clamps.
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221. Replace the air cleaner assembly in the
original location. One fastener location has
changed.
222. Gather the two OEM air cleaner assembly
fasteners shown.
223. Install one of the two fasteners in the
last step to the location shown with the yellow
arrow. Connect and tighten the two hose clamps
shown with green arrows. Plug in the MAF meter
shown with the red arrow. Also connect the No. 2
ventilation hose shown with a blue arrow.
224. The other OEM fastener from two steps
ago and a provided M6 nut will be located at the
provided air box bracket which was installed on
the right side valve cover. Torque these three air
cleaner assembly bolts to 8.0Nm (71 in lbf).
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225. Reconnect the 2 wire harness clamps
shown.
226. Reconnect the vacuum hose that is
highlighted in green to the back of the air box
assembly.
Section 13: Coolant Fill and
Vehicle Testing
227. Ensure that the drain plug for the radiator is
closed. Filter the saved coolant that was drained
from the radiator earlier, and use that to re-fill
the radiator. If you run out of coolant continue to
top off with a Toyota approved coolant mixture.
Check the coolant level inside the radiator by
squeezing the inlet and outlet radiator hoses
several times by hand. If the coolant level goes
down, add coolant. Install the radiator cap. Slowly
pour coolant into the radiator reservoir (shown
with a yellow arrow) until it reaches the FULL line.
228. Reconnect the negative lead of the battery.
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229. Fill the intercooler reservoir with a Toyota
approved coolant mixture until it is full. Have
someone else cycle your ignition switch to the
accessory mode to trigger the pump on. Do
not start the vehicle! This will circulate the fluid.
Once the reservoir drains turn the pump off, and
fill it again. Do not allow the reservoir to run dry.
Check for fluid leaks. Also check for fuel leaks at
this time. Repeat until full circulation is achieved
with a full reservoir. Fluid level should be just
above the top barb. Re-install the reservoir cap.
230. Check the belts to see that they are properly
aligned on all the pulleys. Start the engine and
let it idle. Check for fuel, and coolant leaks.
Squeeze the inlet and outlet hose on the radiator
to remove trapped air from the system. Check the
air intake for leaks, and tighten any loose fittings.
Shut down the engine, and allow it to cool.
231. Once the engine has cooled down check
the level of the radiator reservoir, and the
intercooler reservoir. Add coolant if necessary.
232. Reinstall the bumper cover and radiator grill
by following the steps you performed before in
reverse order.
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233. Reinstall the radiator cover with the 7 plastic
rivets.
234. Reinstall the engine under cover assembly
using the 4 OEM bolts.
235. Test drive the vehicle for the first few miles
under normal driving conditions. Do not perform
any wide open throttle runs. Check for any
unusual sounds, vibrations, or engine misfires.
The supercharger does have a slight whining
noise under boost conditions, which is normal.
After the initial test let the engine cool down, and
recheck coolant levels.
236. After the initial test drive gradually work the
vehicle to wide open throttle runs. Listen for any
engine detonation (pinging). If engine detonation
is detected let up on the throttle immediately.
Most detonation is caused by low octane gasoline
still in the tank. Premium 91 octane fuel is
required. Enjoy your new supercharger.
If you have questions about your vehicles performance, please check with your installation facility.
After you finish your installation and road test your
vehicle, please fill out the warranty registration. This
can be found on our website.
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Diagrams
Belt Routing Diagram
Vacuum Routing
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Notes
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Notes
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Notes
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Please enjoy your “Magnuson SuperCharged”
performance responsibly.
Use only premium gasoline fuel, 91 octane or better.