Fiat - Bravo - Repair Manual - 1995 - 2000

BRAVO & BRAVA • 1995 to 2000 (N to W registration) 4-cyl Petrol > Haynes Service and Repair Manual i Includes Roadside Repairs and MOT Test Checks FIAT B r a v o & B r a v a Service and Repair Manual AK Legg LAEMIMI, Spencer Drayton & RM Jex Models covered (3572 FIAT Bravo and Brava models with 4-cylinder petrol engines, including special/limited editions 1.2 litre (1242 cc), 1.4 litre (1370 cc), 1.6 litre (1581 cc) and 1.8 litre (1747 cc) Covers major mechanical Does not cover features of 1.6 and 2.0 litre (HGT) models, 1.8 litre Marea/Weekend or Diesel engine © Haynes Publishing 2000 A book in the Haynes Service and Repair Manual Series ABODE FGHU KLMNO PQ All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording or by any information storage or retrieval system, without permission in writing from the copyright holder. ISBN 1 85960 572 9 British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library. models versions Printed in the USA Haynes Publishing Sparkford, Yeovil, Somerset BA22 7JJ, England Haynes N o r t h A m e r i c a , Inc 861 Lawrence Drive, Newbury Park, California 91320, USA Editions Haynes 4, Rue de I'Abreuvoir 92415 COURBEVOIE CEDEX, France Haynes Publishing Nordiska A B Box 1504, 751 45 UPPSALA, Sweden 336) Contents LIVING WITH YOUR FIAT BRAVO/BRAVA Introduction Page 0«4 S a f e t y first! Page 0«5 Introduction Page 0«6 If y o u r c a r w o n ' t s t a r t Page 0*6 J u m p starting Page 0«7 Wheel changing Page 0«8 Identifying leaks Page 0*9 Towing Page 0*9 Introduction Page 0«10 Underbonnet check points Page 0*10 E n g i n e oil level Page 0*12 C o o l a n t level Page 0*12 B r a k e a n d c l u t c h f l u i d level Page 0«13 P o w e r s t e e r i n g f l u i d level Page 0»13 Tyre condition and pressure Page 0*14 Battery Page 0«15 Bulbs and fuses Page 0»15 S c r e e n w a s h e r f l u i d level Page 0*16 Wiper blades Page 0*16 Lubricants and fluids Page 0»17 Tyre pressures Page 0»17 Servicing specifications Page 1*2 Maintenance schedule Page 1»3 Maintenance procedures Page 1*7 Roadside repairs Weekly checks MAINTENANCE Routine maintenance and servicing Contents REPAIRS & OVERHAUL Engine and associated systems 1.2 litre e n g i n e i n - c a r r e p a i r p r o c e d u r e s Page 2A»1 1.4 litre e n g i n e i n - c a r r e p a i r p r o c e d u r e s Page 2B»1 1.6 litre e n g i n e i n - c a r r e p a i r p r o c e d u r e s Page 2 0 1 1.8 litre e n g i n e i n - c a r r e p a i r p r o c e d u r e s Page 2D»1 Engine removal and overhaul procedures Page 2E»1 Cooling, heating a n d ventilation systems Page 3«1 Fuel s y s t e m - s i n g l e - p o i n t i n j e c t i o n Page 4A»1 Fuel s y s t e m - m u l t i - p o i n t i n j e c t i o n Page 4B«1 Exhaust a n d emission control systems Page 4 0 1 Starting and charging systems Page 5A»1 Ignition s y s t e m Page 5B»1 Clutch Page 6»1 Manual transmission Page 7A»1 Automatic transmission Page 7B»1 Driveshafts Page 8*1 Transmission Brakes and suspension Braking system Page 9»1 Suspension and steering Page 10*1 Body equipment B o d y w o r k and fittings Page 11»1 B o d y electrical s y s t e m s Page 12»1 Wiring diagrams Page 12*23 REFERENCE Dimensions and weights Page REF»1 Conversion factors Page REF»2 Buying spare parts Page REF»3 Vehicle identification numbers Page REF»4 Jacking a n d vehicle support Page REF»5 Disconnecting the battery Page REF»6 General repair p r o c e d u r e s Page REF»7 Tools a n d w o r k i n g facilities Page REF»8 M O T test checks Page REF»10 Fault f i n d i n g Page REF»14 Glossary of technical terms Page REF»24 Index Page REF»29 o.4 Introduction The 3-door FIAT Bravo and 5-door Brava models were introduced at the end of 1995, as part of a new range of FIAT models which began with the successful Punto a year earlier. The elegant all-new design won the coveted Car of the Year award in 1996. The engines are all fuel-injected, in-line, multi-valve four-cylinder units of 1370 cc, 1581 cc or 1747 cc displacement, and all feature a comprehensive engine management system with extensive emission control equipment. In early 1999, the range received a minor facelift, and the 1370 cc 12-valve engine was replaced by the 1242 cc 16-valve engine from the FIAT Punto. The 3- and 5 - d o o r bodyshells are extensively galvanised and particularly rigid, and offer spacious a c c o m m o d a t i o n . The cars have many crash safety measures, such as a driver's airbag, side impact bars, anti-submarine seats, and front seat belt pre-tensioners. Transmissions are either 5-speed manual, or 4 - s p e e d automatic with c o m p u t e r c o n t r o l . The a u t o m a t i c transmission features m o d e The Fiat Bravo/Brava Team Haynes manuals are p r o d u c e d by d e d i c a t e d a n d e n t h u s i a s t i c p e o p l e w o r k i n g in c l o s e c o - o p e r a t i o n . T h e t e a m r e s p o n s i b l e f o r t h e c r e a t i o n of t h i s b o o k i n c l u d e d : AK Legg LAE M I M I Spencer Drayton RM Jex Page Make-up Steve Churchill James Robertson Workshop manager Photo Scans Cover illustration & Line Art Wiring diagrams A high level of standard equipment, and a wide range of optional equipment, is available within the range to suit virtually all tastes. All models have a driver's airbag, tinted glass, high-level brake light and central l o c k i n g , with several featuring electric w i n d o w s , electric sunroof and alloy wheels. Provided that regular servicing is carried out in accordance with the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s r e c o m m e n d a t i o n s , the FIAT Bravo and Brava will provide reliable and e c o n o m i c a l family m o t o r i n g . The engine compartment is relatively spacious, and most of the items requiring frequent attention are easily accessible. FIAT Brava 1.8 ELX FIAT Bravo 1.4 SX Authors control selection, allowing the driver to alter the transmission characteristics to suit normal, sport or winter driving requirements. Braking is by discs at the front, and d r u m s at the rear, with the handbrake acting on the rear d r u m s . A n t i - l o c k braking (ABS) is available as an option. The suspension is conventional, with struts and wishbones at the front, and a torsion beam rear axle. Power-assisted rack and pinion steering is standard on all models. Paul Buckland John Martin Roger Healing Steve Tanswell W e hope the b o o k will help you to get the m a x i m u m e n j o y m e n t f r o m your car. By carrying out routine maintenance as described you will ensure your car's reliability a n d p r e s e r v e its resale value. Your FIAT Bravo/Brava manual The aim of this manual is to help you get the best value from your vehicle. It can do so in several ways. It can help you decide what work must be done (even should you choose to get it done by a garage). It will also provide information on routine maintenance and servicing, and give a logical course of action and diagnosis w h e n r a n d o m faults occur. However, it is hoped that you will use the manual by tackling the work yourself. On simpler jobs it may even be quicker than booking the car into a garage and going there twice, to leave and collect it. Perhaps most important, a lot of money can be saved by avoiding the costs a garage must charge to cover its labour and overheads. The manual has drawings and descriptions to show the function of the various components so that their layout can be understood. Tasks are described and p h o t o g r a p h e d in a clear s t e p - b y - s t e p sequence. The illustrations are numbered by the Section number and paragraph number to which they relate - if there is more than one illustration per paragraph, the sequence is denoted alphabetically. References to the 'left' or 'right' of the vehicle are in the sense of a person in the driver's seat, facing forwards. Acknowledgements Thanks are due to Champion Spark Plug, who supplied the illustrations showing spark plug conditions, and to Duckhams Oils, who provided lubrication data. Thanks are also due to Draper Tools Limited, w h o p r o v i d e d s o m e of the w o r k s h o p tools, and t o all t h o s e people at Sparkford who helped in the production of this manual. W e t a k e g r e a t p r i d e in t h e a c c u r a c y of i n f o r m a t i o n g i v e n in t h i s manual, but vehicle manufacturers make alterations and design c h a n g e s d u r i n g t h e p r o d u c t i o n run of a p a r t i c u l a r vehicle of w h i c h t h e y d o n o t i n f o r m us. No liability c a n be a c c e p t e d by t h e a u t h o r s o r p u b l i s h e r s f o r loss, d a m a g e o r injury c a u s e d by any e r r o r s in, or omissions f r o m the information given. Safety first! 0.5 Working on your car can be dangerous. This page shows just some of the potential risks and hazards, with the aim of creating a safety-conscious attitude. General hazards Scalding • Don't remove the radiator or expansion tank cap while the engine is hot. • Engine oil, automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid may also be dangerously hot if the engine has recently been running. Burning • Beware of burns from the exhaust system and from any part of the engine. Brake discs and drums can also be extremely hot immediately after use. Crushing • When working under or near a raised vehicle always supplement the jack with axle stands, or use drive-on ramps. Never • Mains voltage is also dangerous. Make sure that any mains-operated equipment is correctly earthed. Mains power points should be protected by a residual current device (RCD) circuit breaker. Fume or gas intoxication • Exhaust fumes are poisonous; they often contain carbon monoxide, which is rapidly fatal if inhaled. Never run the engine in a confined space such as a garage with the doors shut. • Fuel vapour is also poisonous, as are the vapours from some cleaning solvents and paint thinners. Poisonous or irritant substances • Avoid skin contact with battery acid and with any fuel, fluid or lubricant, especially antifreeze, brake hydraulic fluid and Diesel fuel. Don't syphon them by mouth. If such a substance is swallowed or gets into the eyes, seek medical advice. venture under a car which is only supported by a jack. • Take care if loosening or tightening hightorque nuts when the vehicle is on stands. Initial loosening and final tightening should be done with the wheels on the ground. • Prolonged contact with used engine oil can cause skin cancer. Wear gloves or use a barrier cream if necessary. Change out of oilsoaked clothes and do not keep oily rags in your pocket. • Air conditioning refrigerant forms a poisonous gas if exposed to a naked flame (including a cigarette). It can also cause skin burns on contact. Fire Asbestos • Fuel is highly flammable; fuel vapour is explosive. • Don't let fuel spill onto a hot engine. • Do not smoke or allow naked lights (including pilot lights) anywhere near a vehicle being worked on. Also beware of creating sparks (electrically or by use of tools). • Fuel vapour is heavier than air, so don't work on the fuel system with the vehicle over an inspection pit. • Another cause of fire is an electrical overload or short-circuit. Take care when repairing or modifying the vehicle wiring. • Keep a fire extinguisher handy, of a type suitable for use on fuel and electrical fires. • Asbestos dust can cause cancer if inhaled or swallowed. Asbestos may be found in gaskets and in brake and clutch linings. When dealing with such components it is safest to assume that they contain asbestos. = Electric shock • Ignition HT voltage can be dangerous, especially to people with heart problems or a pacemaker. Don't work on or near the ignition system with the engine running or the ignition switched on Remember... DO • Do use eye protection when using power tools, and when working under the vehicle. • Do wear gloves or use barrier cream to protect your hands when necessary. • Do get someone to check periodically that all is well when working alone on the vehicle. • Do keep loose clothing and long hair well out of the way of moving mechanical parts. • Do remove rings, wristwatch etc, before working on the vehicle - especially the electrical system. • Do ensure that any lifting or jacking equipment has a safe working load rating adequate for the job. Special hazards Hydrofluoric acid • This extremely corrosive acid is formed when certain types of synthetic rubber, found in some O-rings, oil seals, fuel hoses etc, are exposed to temperatures above 400°C. The rubber changes into a charred or sticky substance containing the acid. Once formed, the acid remains dangerous for years. If it gets onto the skin, it may be necessary to amputate the limb concerned. • When dealing with a vehicle which has suffered a fire, or with components salvaged from such a vehicle, wear protective gloves and discard them after use. The battery • Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which attacks clothing, eyes and skin. Take care when topping-up or carrying the battery. • The hydrogen gas given off by the battery is highly explosive. Never cause a spark or allow a naked light nearby. Be careful when connecting and disconnecting battery chargers or j u m p leads. Air bags • Air bags can cause injury if they go off accidentally. Take care when removing the steering wheel and/or facia. Special storage instructions may apply. Diesel injection equipment • Diesel injection pumps supply fuel at very high pressure. Take care when working on the fuel injectors and fuel pipes. A Warning: Never expose the hands, face or any other part of the body to injector spray; the fuel can penetrate the skin with potentially fatal results. DON'T • Don't attempt to lift a heavy component which may be beyond your capability - get assistance. • Don't rush to finish a job, or take unverified short cuts. • Don't use ill-fitting tools which may slip and cause injury. • Don't leave tools or parts lying around where someone can trip over them. M o p up oil and fuel spills at once. • Don't allow children or pets to play in or near a vehicle being worked on. o.6 Roadside repairs T h e f o l l o w i n g p a g e s a r e i n t e n d e d t o h e l p in d e a l i n g w i t h c o m m o n r o a d s i d e e m e r g e n c i e s a n d b r e a k d o w n s . Y o u will f i n d m o r e d e t a i l e d fault f i n d i n g i n f o r m a t i o n at t h e b a c k of t h e m a n u a l , a n d r e p a i r i n f o r m a t i o n in t h e m a i n c h a p t e r s . If your car won't start and the starter motor doesn't turn If your car won't start even though the starter motor turns as normal • • • • • A If i t ' s a m o d e l w i t h a u t o m a t i c t r a n s m i s s i o n , m a k e s u r e t h e s e l e c t o r is in P or N. Open the bonnet and m a k e sure that the battery terminals are clean and tight. S w i t c h o n t h e h e a d l i g h t s a n d t r y t o s t a r t t h e e n g i n e . If t h e headlights g o very d i m w h e n y o u ' r e trying t o start, t h e b a t t e r y is p r o b a b l y f l a t . G e t o u t o f t r o u b l e b y j u m p s t a r t i n g (see n e x t p a g e ) u s i n g a f r i e n d ' s c a r . Check that the HT leads are securely connected to the spark plugs and ignition coil pack, where applicable. 7.8 litre models do not have conventional HT leads. B Is t h e r e f u e l in t h e t a n k ? Is t h e r e m o i s t u r e o n e l e c t r i c a l c o m p o n e n t s u n d e r t h e b o n n e t ? S w i t c h off t h e i g n i t i o n , t h e n w i p e off a n y o b v i o u s d a m p n e s s with a dry cloth. Spray a water-repellent aerosol p r o d u c t (WD-40 or equivalent) o n ignition and fuel s y s t e m e l e c t r i c a l c o n n e c t o r s like t h o s e s h o w n in t h e p h o t o s . Pay special attention t o t h e ignition coil wiring c o n n e c t o r and HT leads. Check that the LT wiring plug is securely attached to the ignition coil. On some models, the HT leads and ignition coil are concealed under a plastic cover, secured by a number of screws. Check the airflow meter and/or inlet air temperature sensor wiring connector for security. \ Check that electrical connections are secure (with the ignition switched off) and spray them with a water dispersant spray like WD-40 if you suspect a problem due to d a m p Hi Check the security and condition of the battery terminals. Roadside repairs 0.7 Jump starting will get you out of trouble, but you must correct whatever made the battery go flat in the first place. There are three possibilities: The battery has been drained by repeated attempts to start, or by leaving the lights on. Jump starting HAYNES eed T 2 W h e n jump-starting a car using a booster battery, observe the following precautions: • Before connecting the booster b a t t e r y , m a k e s u r e t h a t t h e i g n i t i o n is s w i t c h e d off. The charging system is not working properly (alternator drivebelt slack or broken, alternator wiring fault or alternator itself faulty). • 3 E n s u r e t h a t all e l e c t r i c a l e q u i p m e n t (lights, h e a t e r , w i p e r s , e t c ) is s w i t c h e d off. • T a k e n o t e of a n y s p e c i a l p r e c a u t i o n s printed on the battery case. The battery itself is at fault (electrolyte low, or battery worn out). • M a k e s u r e t h a t t h e b o o s t e r b a t t e r y is t h e s a m e voltage as t h e d i s c h a r g e d o n e in t h e v e h i c l e . If t h e b a t t e r y is b e i n g j u m p - s t a r t e d f r o m t h e b a t t e r y in a n o t h e r v e h i c l e , the t w o vehicles M U S T NOT T O U C H each other. M a k e s u r e t h a t t h e t r a n s m i s s i o n is in n e u t r a l (or P A R K , in t h e c a s e of automatic transmission). Make sure that the j u m p leads will not c o m e into contact with the fan, drivebelts or other moving parts of the engine. Start the engine using the booster battery and run it at idle speed. Switch on the lights, rear window demister and heater blower motor, then disconnect the j u m p leads in the reverse order of connection. Turn off the lights etc. o.8 Roadside repairs Wheel changing A Warning: Do not change a wheel in a situation where you risk being hit by another vehicle. On busy roads, try to stop in a lay-by or a gateway. Be wary of passing traffic while changing the wheel - it is easy to become distracted by the job in hand. Preparation • When a puncture occurs, stop as soon as it is safe to do so. Park on firm level ground, if possible, and well out of the way of other traffic. Use hazard warning lights if necessary. • • • • If you have one, use a warning triangle to alert other drivers of your presence. Apply the handbrake and engage first or reverse gear (or Park on models with automatic transmission). • • Chock the wheel diagonally opposite the one being removed - a couple of large stones will do for this. If the ground is soft, use a flat piece of w o o d to spread the load under the jack. Changing the wheel H I The spare wheel and tools are stored in the luggage c o m p a r t m e n t under the carpet. Unscrew the handle and lift out the tool tray, then take out the jack and spare wheel. 4 Turn the handle clockwise until the wheel is raised clear of the ground. Unscrew the wheel bolts and remove the wheel. N o t e : Some models are supplied with a special lightweight 'space-saver' spare wheel, the tyre being narrower than standard. The space-saver spare wheel is intended only for temporary use, and must be replaced with a standard wheel as soon as possible. Drive with particular care with this wheel fitted, especially through corners and when braking - FIAT recommend a maximum speed of 50 mph (80 kmlh) when the special spare wheel is in use. The temporary spare also has a maximum recommended life of 1800 miles. 2 Remove the wheel trim (where fitted) by prising up the edges and pulling it straight off. Slacken each wheel bolt by a half turn, using the wheelbrace. If the bolts are too tight, DON'T stand on the wheelbrace to undo them - call for assistance. 5 Fit the spare wheel, noting that there are t w o locating pegs on the wheel hub, w h i c h must fit t h r o u g h the holes in the spare wheel. Fit and screw in the bolts. Finally... 3 The jack head engages with the b o t t o m lip on the side sills. If a front wheel is being c h a n g e d , position the jack head a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30 c m back f r o m the front wheel arch. If a rear wheel is being changed, the jack head should be 20 c m forward of the rear wheel arch. Don't jack the vehicle at any other point of the sill. 6 Lightly tighten the bolts with the wheelbrace, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Securely tighten the wheel bolts. Note that the wheel trim will not fit the spare wheel. The wheel bolts should be slackened and retightened to the specified torque at the earliest possible opportunity. • Remove the wheel chocks. • Stow the punctured wheel and tools in the correct locations in the car. • Check the tyre pressure on the tyre just fitted. If it is low, or if you don't have a pressure gauge with you, drive slowly to the next garage and inflate the tyre to the correct pressure. Particularly in the case of the narrow space-saver spare wheel, this pressure is much higher than for a normal tyre. • Have the punctured wheel repaired as soon as possible, or another puncture will leave you stranded. Roadside repairs 0.9 Puddles on the garage floor or drive, or obvious w e t n e s s under the bonnet or underneath the car, suggest a leak that needs investigating. It can sometimes be difficult to d e c i d e where the leak is c o m i n g f r o m , especially if the engine bay is very dirty already. Leaking oil or fluid can also be blown rearwards by the passage of air under the car, giving a false impression of where the problem lies. A Identifying leaks Warning: Most automotive oils and fluids are poisonous. Wash them off skin, and change out of contaminated clothing, without delay. The smell of a fluid leaking from the car may provide a clue to what's leaking. Some fluids are distinctively coloured. It may help to clean the car carefully and to park it over some clean paper overnight as an aid to locating the source of the leak. HAYNES Remember that some leaks may occur while the engine is running. only Sump oil Oil from filter Gearbox oil Engine oil may leak from the drain plug.. ...or from the base of the oil filter. Gearbox oil can leak from the seals at the inboard ends of the driveshafts. Antifreeze Brake fluid Power steering fluid Leaking antifreeze often leaves a crystalline deposit like this. A leak occurring at a wheel is almost certainly brake fluid. Power steering fluid may leak from the pipe connectors on the steering rack. When all else fails, you may find yourself having to get a tow home - or of course you may be helping somebody else. Long-distance recovery should only be done by a garage or breakdown service. For shorter distances, DIY towing using another car is easy enough, but observe the following points: • The screw-in towing eye is provided with the wheel changing tools in the b o o t . The towing eye is screwed into the threaded hole in the front b u m p e r , below the r i g h t - h a n d headlight, or into the right-hand side of the rear bumper after prising out the trim cover. • Before being t o w e d , release the handbrake and select neutral on the transmission. • Note that greater-than-usual pedal pressure will be required to operate the brakes, since the v a c u u m servo unit is only operational with the engine running. • On models w i t h p o w e r steering, greaterthan-usual steering effort will also be required. • The driver of the car being t o w e d must keep the t o w - r o p e taut at all times to avoid snatching. • Make sure that both drivers know the route before setting off. • Only drive at moderate speeds and keep the distance t o w e d to a m i n i m u m . Drive smoothly and allow plenty of time for slowing d o w n at junctions. • On m o d e l s with a u t o m a t i c transmission, the car must not be t o w e d (with the front wheels on the ground) further than 12 miles (20 km), or faster than 18 mph (30 km/h). If in doubt, do not tow with the driven wheels on the g r o u n d , or transmission d a m a g e may result. • Use a proper t o w - r o p e - they are not expensive. The vehicle being t o w e d must display an ON TOW sign in its rear window. • A l w a y s turn the ignition key to the ' o n ' position when the vehicle is being t o w e d , so that the steering lock is released, and that the direction indicator and brake lights will work. Towing o«io Weekly checks Introduction There are s o m e very simple c h e c k s w h i c h need only take a few minutes to carry out, but which could save you a lot of inconvenience and expense. • Keeping an eye on tyre c o n d i t i o n and pressures, will not only help t o s t o p t h e m wearing out prematurely, but could also save your life. These "Weekly checks" require no great skill or special tools, and the small amount of time they take t o perform could prove t o be very well spent, for example; • Many breakdowns are caused by electrical problems. Battery-related faults are particularly common, and a quick check on a regular basis will often prevent the majority of these. • If your car develops a brake fluid leak, the first time you might k n o w about it is when your brakes d o n ' t w o r k properly. Checking the level regularly will give advance warning of this kind of problem. • If the oil or coolant levels run low, the cost of repairing any engine d a m a g e will be far greater than fixing the leak, for example. Underbonnet check points ^ 1.2 litre engine A Engine oil level B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion D dipstick Brake and clutch tank fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Screen washer fluid reservoir G Battery 4 1.4 litre engine A Engine oil level B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion D Brake and clutch dipstick tank fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Screen washer fluid reservoir Q Battery Weekly checks o . n ^ 1.6 litre engine A Engine oil level dipstick B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion D Brake and clutch tank fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Screen washer fluid reservoir G Battery ^ 1.8 litre engine A Engine oil level B Engine oil filler cap C Coolant expansion D dipstick tank Brake and clutch fluid reservoir E Power steering fluid reservoir F Screen washer fluid reservoir G Battery o-i2 Weekly checks Engine oil level Before you start • Make sure that your car is on level ground. • Check the oil level before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If the oil is checked immediately after driving the vehicle, some of the oil will remain in the upper engine components, resulting in an inaccurate reading on the dipstick! HAYNES The correct oil I The dipstick t o p is brightly coloured for easy identification, and is situated at the front of the engine c o m p a r t m e n t (see Underbonnet check points on pages 0 1 0 and 0 1 1 ) . Withdraw the dipstick Modern engines place great demands on their oil. It is very important that the correct oil for your car is used (See Lubricants and fluids on page 0'17). MAX Using a clean rag or paper towel remove all oil from the dipstick. Insert the clean dipstick into the tube as far as it will go, then withdraw it again. MIN Car Care • If you have to add oil frequently, you should check whether you have any oil leaks. Place s o m e clean paper under the car overnight, and check for stains in the morning. If there are no leaks, the engine may be burning oil. • A l w a y s maintain the level b e t w e e n the upper and lower dipstick marks (see photo 3). If the le\/el is too low severe engine damage may occur. Oil seal failure may result if the engine is overfilled by adding too much oil. Coolant level A •H I Warning: DO NOT attempt to remove the expansion tank pressure cap when the engine is hot, as there is a very great risk of scalding. Do not leave open containers of coolant about, as it is poisonous. The coolant expansion tank is located in one of two places (see Underbonnet check points on pages O 1 0 and 0*11). The coolant level can vary with engine temperature. When cold, it should be between the MAX and MIN marks. When the engine is hot, the level may rise slightly above the MAX mark. 'irmm^f 3 Note the oil level on the end of the dipstick, which should be in the hatched area between the upper (MAX) mark and lower (MIN) mark. Approximately 1.0 litre of oil will raise the level from the lower mark to the upper mark. Car Care • With a sealed-type cooling system, adding coolant should not be necessary on a regular basis. If frequent topping-up is required, it is likely there is a leak. Check the radiator, all hoses and joint faces for signs of staining or wetness, and rectify as necessary. 2 If topping up is necessary, w a i t until e n g i n e is c o l d . Slowly unscrew expansion tank c a p , to release pressure present in the cooling system, remove it. the the any and 4 Oil is a d d e d through the filler c a p . Unscrew the cap and top-up the level; a funnel may help to reduce spillage. A d d the oil slowly, checking the level on the dipstick often. Don't overfill (see 'Car Care' left). • It is important that antifreeze is used in the cooling system all year round, not just during the winter months. Don't t o p - u p with water alone, as the antifreeze will b e c o m e t o o diluted. A d d a mixture of water and antifreeze to the expansion tank until the coolant level is halfway between the level marks. Refit the cap and tighten it securely. Weekly checks 0.13 Brake (and clutch*) fluid level *0n models with a hydraulically-operated clutch, this information is also applicable to the clutch fluid level. Warning: • Make sure that your car is • Brake fluid can harm your HAYNES on level ground. eyes and damage painted • If the reservoir requires repeated t o p p i n g The fluid level in the surfaces, so use extreme up this is an indication of a fluid leak reservoir will drop slightly as caution when handling and s o m e w h e r e in the s y s t e m , w h i c h should be the brake pads wear down, but the fluid pouring it. investigated immediately. level must never be allowed to drop below the MIN mark. • Do not use fluid that has • If a leak is suspected, the car should not be been standing open for some driven until the braking s y s t e m has been time, as it absorbs moisture checked. Never take any risks where brakes from the air, which can cause a are concerned. dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. A The MAX and MIN marks are indicated on the reservoir. The fluid level must be kept between the marks at all times Safety First! If topping-up is necessary, first wipe clean the area around the filler cap to prevent dirt entering the hydraulic system. Unscrew the reservoir cap and carefully lift it out of position, holding the wiring connector plug and taking care not to damage the level sender float. Inspect the reservoir; if the fluid is dirty, the hydraulic system should be bled through (see Chapter 1). Power steering fluid level Before you start: • Park the vehicle on level ground. • Set the steering wheel straight-ahead. • The engine should be turned off. •H I On most models, the reservoir is mounted at the rear of the engine, next to the brake fluid reservoir; 1.2 litre models have the reservoir by the engine (see Underbonnet check points on page O 1 0 ) . The fluid level can be v i e w e d t h r o u g h t h e reservoir body, and should be between the MIN and MAX marks; if not, a dipstick is incorporated in the filler cap. REHflSl |Hli\IT| check to be accurate, the steering must not be turned once the engine has been stopped. F o r t n e If t o p p i n g - u p is necessary, use the specified type of fluid - do not overfill the reservoir. When the level is c o r r e c t , securely refit the cap. 3 Carefully add fluid, taking care not to spill it onto the surrounding c o m p o n e n t s . Use only the specified fluid; mixing different types can cause damage to the system. After topping-up to the correct level, securely refit the cap and wipe off any spilt fluid. Reconnect the fluid level wiring connector. Safety First! • The need for frequent topping-up indicates a leak, w h i c h should be investigated immediately. 3 • -M Start the engine and wait for the fluid level in the reservoir to stabilise before proceeding. With the engine running, turn the steering wheel fully left and right several times, returning to the straight-ahead position. Wait for the level t o stabilise, then check the fluid level once more, and top-up if necessary. Switch off the engine on completion. o.i4 Weekly checks Tyre condition and pressure It is very i m p o r t a n t that tyres are in g o o d condition, and at the correct pressure - having a tyre failure at any speed is highly dangerous. Tyre wear is influenced by driving style - harsh braking and acceleration, or fast cornering, will all p r o d u c e more rapid tyre wear. As a general rule, the front tyres wear out faster than the rears. Interchanging the tyres from front to rear ("rotating" the tyres) may result in more even wear. However, if this is c o m p l e t e l y effective, y o u may have t h e expense of replacing all four tyres at once! Remove any nails or stones embedded in the tread before they penetrate the tyre to cause deflation. If removal of a nail does reveal that -J Tread Depth - visual check The original tyres have tread wear safety bands (B), which will appear, when the tread d e p t h reaches a p p r o x i m a t e l y 1.6 m m . The band positions are indicated by a triangular mark on the tyre sidewall (A). the tyre has been punctured, refit the nail so that its point of penetration is marked. Then immediately change the wheel, and have the tyre repaired by a tyre dealer. Regularly c h e c k the tyres for d a m a g e in the form of cuts or bulges, especially in t h e sidewalls. Periodically remove t h e wheels, and clean any dirt or mud from the inside and outside surfaces. Examine the wheel rims for signs of rusting, corrosion or other damage. Light alloy wheels are easily d a m a g e d by "kerbing" whilst parking; steel wheels may also become dented or buckled. A new wheel is very often the only way to overcome severe damage. 2 Tread Depth - manual check Alternatively, tread wear c a n be monitored with a simple, inexpensive device known as a tread depth indicator gauge. New tyres should be balanced when they are f i t t e d , but it may b e c o m e necessary t o rebalance them as they wear, or if the balance weights fitted to the wheel rim should fall off. Unbalanced tyres will wear more quickly, as will the steering and suspension components. Wheel imbalance is normally signified by vibration, particularly at a certain speed (typically around 50 mph). If this vibration is felt only through the steering, then it is likely that just the front wheels need balancing. If, however, t h e vibration is felt t h r o u g h the w h o l e car, t h e rear wheels c o u l d be out of balance. Wheel balancing should be carried out by a tyre dealer or garage. Tyre Pressure Check Check the tyre pressures regularly with the tyres c o l d . Do not adjust t h e tyre pressures immediately after the vehicle has been used, or an inaccurate setting will result. Tyre pressures are shown on page 0*17. Tyre tread wear patterns Shoulder Wear U n d e r i n f l a t i o n (wear o n b o t h sides) Under-inflation will cause overheating of the tyre, because the tyre will flex too much, and the tread will not sit correctly on the road surface. This will cause a loss of grip and excessive wear, not t o mention the danger of sudden tyre failure due to heat build-up. Check and adjust pressures I n c o r r e c t w h e e l c a m b e r (wear o n o n e side) Repair or renew suspension parts Hard cornering Reduce speed! Centre Wear Overinflation Over-inflation will cause rapid wear of t h e centre part of t h e tyre t r e a d , c o u p l e d with reduced grip, harsher ride, and the danger of shock damage occurring in the tyre casing. Check and adjust pressures If you sometimes have to inflate your car's tyres to the higher pressures specified for maximum load or sustained high speed, don't forget to reduce the pressures to normal afterwards. Uneven Wear Front tyres may wear unevenly as a result of wheel misalignment. M o s t tyre dealers and garages can c h e c k a n d adjust t h e wheel alignment (or "tracking") for a modest charge. I n c o r r e c t c a m b e r or c a s t o r Repair or renew suspension parts Malfunctioning suspension Repair or renew suspension parts Unbalanced wheel Balance tyres Incorrect toe setting Adjust front wheel alignment Note: The feathered edge of the tread which typifies toe wear is best checked by feel. Weekly checks 0-15 Battery Caution: Before carrying out any work on the vehicle battery, read the precautions given in Safety first! at the start of this manual. • Make sure that the battery tray is in g o o d c o n d i t i o n , and that the c l a m p is tight. Corrosion on the tray, retaining clamp and the battery itself can be removed with a solution of water and baking soda. Thoroughly rinse all cleaned areas w i t h water. Any metal parts d a m a g e d by corrosion should be covered with a zinc-based primer, then painted. • Periodically (approximately every three months), c h e c k the charge c o n d i t i o n of the battery as described in Chapter 5A. • On batteries w h i c h are not of the maintenance-free type, periodically check the electrolyte level in the battery - see Chapter 1. • If the battery is flat, and you need to j u m p start your vehicle, see Roadside repairs. Battery corrosion can be kept to a minimum by applying a layer of petroleum jelly to the clamps and terminals after they are reconnected. The battery is located at the front of the engine c o m p a r t m e n t on the left-hand side. The exterior of the battery should be inspected periodically for damage such as a cracked case or cover If corrosion (white, fluffy deposits) is evident, remove the cables f r o m the battery terminals, clean them with a small wire brush, then refit them. Automotive stores sell a tool for cleaning the battery p o s t . . . Bulbs and fuses • Check all external lights and the horn. Refer to the appropriate Sections of Chapter 12 for details if any of the circuits are f o u n d to be inoperative. H I If a single i n d i c a t o r light, s t o p - l i g h t or h e a d l i g h t has f a i l e d , it is likely that a b u l b has b l o w n and will n e e d t o be replaced. Refer to Chapter 12 for details. If b o t h s t o p - l i g h t s have f a i l e d , it is p o s s i b l e that the s t o p - l i g h t s w i t c h is faulty (see Chapter 9). Lift off the terminal covers, and check the tightness of battery c l a m p s to ensure g o o d electrical connections. Also check each cable for cracks and frayed conductors. • Visually c h e c k all accessible wiring connectors, harnesses and retaining clips for security, and for signs of chafing or damage. 2 If more than one indicator light or headlight has failed, it is likely that either a fuse has blown or that there is a fault in the circuit (see Chapter 12). The main fuses are located in the fusebox situated to the right of the steering wheel. Additional fuses are located behind the glovebox, with several enginerelated fuses on the engine c o m p a r t m e n t bulkhead or next to the battery. as well as the battery cable clamps If you need to check your brake lights and indicators unaided, back up to a wall or ^ garage door and operate the lights. The reflected light should show if they are working properly. 3 To replace a blown fuse, simply pull it out using the plastic tweezers provided. Fit a new fuse of the same rating (see Chapter 12). If the fuse blows again, it is important that you find out why - a complete checking procedure is given in Chapter 12. o.i6 Weekly checks Washer fluid level • The w i n d s c r e e n washer reservoir also supplies the tailgate washer jet. On models so equipped, the same reservoir also serves the headlight washers. • Screenwash additives not only keep the w i n d s c r e e n clean during foul weather, they also prevent the washer s y s t e m freezing in cold weather - which is when you are likely to need it most. Don't top up using plain water as the screenwash will b e c o m e too diluted, and will freeze during cold weather. On no account use coolant antifreeze the washer system - this could discolour damage paintwork. Wiper blades Caution: Take care during the fitting new blades that the wiper arms do accidentally strike the windscreen tailgate glass. 1 in or of not or Check the condition of the wiper blades; if they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if the glass swept area is smeared, renew t h e m . Wiper blades should be renewed annually. •H I On m o s t m o d e l s , the washer fluid reservoir filler is located at the rear righthand side of the engine c o m p a r t m e n t ; 1.4 litre models have the reservoir on the lefthand side. Release the cap and observe the level in the reservoir by looking down the filler neck. Models with headlight washers have a dipstick which can be used to verify the level. 2 To t o p - u p the level, pull the filter inside the filler neck upwards until it clicks - this can now be used as a funnel. When t o p p i n g - u p the reservoir, a screenwash additive should be a d d e d in the quantities recommended on the bottle. N o t e : Fitting details for wiper blades vary according to model, and according to whether genuine FIAT wiper blades have been fitted. Use the procedures and illustrations shown as a guide for your car. Q To remove a wiper blade, pull the arm fully away f r o m the glass until it locks. Swivel the blade through 90°, press the locking t a b with your fingers and slide the blade out of the arm's hooked end. O Don't forget to check the rear wiper blade as well. To remove the blade, press in the catch at the base of the arm, and slide the blade and upper section of the arm out. O Lubricants, fluids and tyre pressures 0.17 Lubricants and fluids Engine S y n t h e t i c - b a s e d multigrade engine oil, viscosity SAE 1 0 W / 4 0 , t o A C E A A 3 , A P I S J or b e t t e r (Duckhams Cooling system QXR Premium (Duckhams Manual transmission Antifreeze (Duckhams Hypoid (Duckhams Choosing your engine oil • Cooling hot-spots Temperatures inside the engine can exceed 1000° C. The engine oil circulates and acts as a coolant, transferring heat from the hot-spots to the sump. GL-5) III) Universal Brake & Clutch Fluid) Dexron type ATF (Duckhams friction Coolant) Gear Oil 75W-80W ATF Autotrans (Duckhams • Beating and Summer Brake and clutch fluid t o D O T 4 Power steering Without oil, the moving surfaces inside your engine will rub together, heat up and melt, quickly causing the engine to seize. Engine oil creates a film which separates these moving parts, preventing wear and heat build-up. Oil) D e x r o n II t y p e a u t o m a t i c t r a n s m i s s i o n f l u i d Braking system HOW ENGINE OIL WORKS Engine Gear oil, viscosity S A E 7 5 W / 8 0 , to API GL5 Automatic transmission Engines need oil, not only to lubricate moving parts and minimise wear, but also to maximise power output and to improve fuel economy. By introducing a simplified and i m p r o v e d range of engine oils, D u c k h a m s has taken away the confusion and made it easier for you to choose the right oil for your engine. Petrol Ethylene g l y c o l - b a s e d antifreeze, • Cleaning the engine ATF Autotrans internally G o o d quality engine oils clean the inside of your engine, collecting and dispersing c o m b u s t i o n d e p o s i t s and controlling t h e m until they are trapped by the oil filter or flushed out at oil change. OIL CARE - FOLLOW THE CODE To handle and d i s p o s e of used engine oil safely, always: • Avoid skin contact with used engine oil. Repeated or prolonged contact can be harmful. • Dispose of used oil and empty packs in a responsible manner in an authorised disposal site. Call 0800 663366 to find 0800 66 33 66 t III) DUCKHAMS ENGINE OILS For the driver w h o d e m a n d s a p r e m i u m quality oil for c o m p l e t e reassurance, w e r e c o m m e n d synthetic formula D u c k h a m s QXR P r e m i u m Engine Oils. For the driver w h o requires a straightforward quality engine oil, we r e c o m m e n d D u c k h a m s H y p e r g r a d e Engine Oils. For further information and advice, call the Duckhams UK Helpline on 0800 212988. y° Never tip oil down drains or onto the ground. n e o n e n e a r e s t t o u Tyre pressures (cold) Note: Pressures apply only to original-equipment for correct pressures if necessary. tyres, and may vary if other makes or type is fitted; check with the tyre manufacturer Front Rear Except 185/55 R15 and 195/50 R15 tyres 2.2 b a r (32 psi) 2.2 b a r (32 psi) 185/55 R15 and 195/50 R15 tyres 2.2 b a r (32 psi) 2.3 b a r (33 psi) 2 . 3 b a r (33 psi) 2.5 b a r (36 psi) Normal (full-width) wheel 2 . 8 b a r (41 psi) 2 . 8 b a r (41 psi) S p a c e saver (narrow) w h e e l 4.2 b a r (61 psi) 4 . 2 b a r (61 psi) Normal load: Full l o a d Spare wheel: or supplier • M Chapter 1 Routine maintenance & servicing Contents Air filter renewal Automatic transmission fluid level check Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal Auxiliary drivebelt tension check Battery electrolyte level check Brake fluid renewal Braking system pipes and hoses check Clutch cable adjustment Coolant renewal Engine management system fault code check Engine oil and filter renewal Evaporative emission control system check Exhaust emissions check Exhaust system check Front brake pad check Fuel filter renewal 19 5 21 7 6 26 11 22 31 25 3 29 24 12 4 20 Handbrake adjustment Hinge and lock lubrication Hose and fluid leak check Introduction Lights and horn operation check Manual transmission oil level check Pollen filter renewal Rear brake shoe check Regular maintenance Road test Spark plug renewal Steering and suspension check Timing belt renewal Transmission and driveshaft gaiter check Underbody protection check 23 16 9 1 15 27 8 28 2 17 18 13 30 10 14 Degrees of difficulty Easy, suitable for | k novice with little expenence ^ §x Fairly difficult, §^ suitable for competent 0 ^ experienced DIY DIY mechanic mechanic s o m e experience ^ ^ Difficult, suitable for Fairly easy, suitable for beginner with ^ ^ >J^ Very difficult, ^ suitable for expert DIY ^ or professional ^ 1-2 Servicing specifications Lubricants and fluids Refer to end of Weekly checks on page 0*17 Capacities Engine oil (including filter): 1.2 litre engine 1.4 litre engine 1.6 litre engine 1.8 litre engine Cooling system (approximate): 1.2 and 1.4 litre engines 1.6 and 1.8 litre engines Transmission (approximate): Manual transmission: 1.2 and 1.4 litre engine models 1.6 and 1.8 litre engine models Automatic transmission (fluid change) Fuel tank (approximate): Except 1.8 litre models 1.8 litre models Washer reservoir: Models with headlight washers Models without headlight washers 2.8 4.1 3.8 4.3 litres litres litres litres 6.0 litres 7.0 litres 1.65 litres 2.0 litres 4.3 litres 50 litres 60 litres 6.4 litres 5.0 litres Engine Oil filter: 1.2,1.4 and 1.6 litre engines 1.8 litre engine: Up to March 1996 April 1996 onwards * N o t e : This is the latest information Champion F107* Champion F107* Champion F133* available; if in any doubt, contact Champion on 01274 848283. Cooling system Antifreeze mixture: 4 0 % antifreeze 5 0 % antifreeze Note: Refer to antifreeze manufacturer Protection d o w n to -25°C Protection d o w n to -35°C for latest recommendations. Fuel system Air filter element: Except 1.2 litre engine 1.2 litre engine Fuel filter * N o t e : This is the latest information Champion U564* Champion type not available* Champion L225* available; if in any doubt, contact Champion on 01274 848283. Ignition system Ignition timing Refer to Chapter 5B Spark plugs: Except 1.2 litre engine Champion RC8BYC or RC7YC* 1.2 litre engine Champion RA4HCX or RA4HC* Electrode gap**: Champion RC8BYC Not adjustable Champion RA4HCX 0.8 m m (0.032 in) Champion RC7YC or RA4HC 0.7 m m (0.028 in) *Note: This is the latest information available; if in any doubt, contact Champion on 01274 848283. "The spark plug electrode gap is as quoted by Champion for their recommended plugs. If spark plugs of any other type are to be used, refer to their manufacturer's specifications. Clutch Clutch pedal stroke (see Section 22): 1.2 and 1.4 litre models (where applicable) 1.6 and 1.8 litre models 155 ± 1 0 m m 170 ± 1 0 m m Brakes Brake pad/shoe friction material minimum thickness 1.5 m m Torque wrench settings Nm ibfft Manual transmission drain plug Manual transmission filler/level plug Roadwheel bolts 46 46 86 34 34 63 Servicing specifications 1.3 Torque wrench settings (continued) Nm Ibf ft Spark plugs: All except 1.6 litre engine 1.6 litre engine Sump drain plug: 25 27 18 20 10 25 50 20 7 "18 37 15 Maintenance schedule The maintenance intervals in this manual are provided with the assumption that you, not the dealer, will be carrying out the work. These are the m i n i m u m intervals r e c o m m e n d e d for vehicles driven daily. If you wish to keep your vehicle in peak condition at all times, you may wish to perform s o m e of these procedures more often. We encourage frequent maintenance, since it enhances the efficiency, performance and resale value of your vehicle. Every 250 miles (400 km) or weekly • Refer to Weekly checks Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) or 12 months In addition following: • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the Renew the engine oil and filter (Section 3) Check the front brake pad thickness (Section 4) Check the automatic transmission fluid level (Section 5) Check battery electrolyte level - where applicable (Section 6) Check the tension of the auxiliary drivebelt(s) (Section 7) Renew the pollen filter element (Section 8) Check all underbonnet/underbody components and hoses for fluid leaks (Section 9) Check the transmission and driveshaft gaiters for leaks and damage (Section 10) Check the brake pipes and hoses for leaks and damage (Section 11) Check the condition of the exhaust system and its mountings (Section 12) Check the steering and suspension components for condition and security (Section 13) Check underbody protection for damage (Section 14) Check operation of all lights and horn (Section 15) Lubricate all hinges, locks and door check straps (Section 16) Carry out a road test (Section 17) Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years In addition following: • • • to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the Renew the spark plugs (Section 18) Renew the air filter element (Section 19) Renew the fuel filter, where applicable (Section 20) When the vehicle is new, it should be serviced by a dealer service d e p a r t m e n t , in order to preserve the factory warranty. Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) or 2 years (continued) • Check the condition of the auxiliary drivebelt(s), and renew if necessary (Section 21) i"l Check clutch cable adjustment, where applicable (Section 22) U Check handbrake adjustment (Section 23) i i Check exhaust gas emissions (Section 24) 1 i Check engine management system for fault codes (Section 25) Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) or 2 years In addition following: to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the i I Renew the brake fluid (Section 26) • Check the manual transmission oil level (Section 27) • Check the rear brake shoe lining thickness (Section 28) Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) or 4 years In addition following: to the items listed in the previous services, carry out the i i Check the evaporative emissions control system (Section 29) Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km) In addition to all the items listed above, carry out the following: • Renew the timing belt (Section 30) N o t e : It is strongly recommended that the interval is halved to 36 000 miles (60 000 km), particularly on vehicles which are subjected to intensive use, ie. mainly short journeys or a lot of stopstart driving. The actual belt renewal interval is therefore very much up to the individual owner, but bear in mind that severe engine damage will result if the belt breaks. Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) Li Renew the coolant (Section 31) 1.4 Maintenance - component locations Underbonnet view of 1.2 litre model Sra/ce a n d c / u f c h ffu/d reservoir Fuse and relay Engine for access spark (remove to coils and plugs) Engine management system ECU Auxiliary fusebox Air inlet Air box top cover duct cleaner Battery 8 Cooling system expansion tank 10 Engine 11 Oil filler 12 Power 13 Washer oil dipstick cap steering reservoir reservoir Underbonnet view of 1.4 litre model Air cleaner Brake and clutch fluid reservoir Fuse and relay Throttle Power body steering Engine system 8 9 10 box airbox reservoir management ECU Auxiliary fusebox Washer reservoir Battery Cooling system expansion tank 11 Radiator top 12 Oil filler cap 13 Oil 14 Engine 15 Crankcase 16 Warm-air 17 Timing hose filter oil dipstick breather inlet belt duct cover hose Maintenance - component locations 1.5 Underbonnet view of 1.6 litre model 1 Washer 2 Inlet manifold reservoir 3 Brake (upper and clutch section) fluid reservoir 4 Fuse and relay 5 Inlet air resonator 6 Power 7 Air inlet Auxiliary 9 Air 11 box steering 8 10 box reservoir duct fusebox cleaner Battery Engine management system ECU 12 Accelerator 13 Cooling cable system expansion tank 14 Ignition 15 Inlet manifold coil (lower section) 16 Oil filler 17 Engine cap 18 No 1 spark plug 19 Timing oil dipstick belt HTIead cover Underbonnet view of 1.8 litre model 1 Washer 2 Cooling reservoir system expansion tank 3 Fuel hoses, fuel rail and injectors 4 Brake and clutch fluid reservoir 5 Inlet manifold 6 Power steering 7 Idle speed 8 Anti-lock braking (ABS) modulator 9 Airflow meter 10 Auxiliary 11 Air inlet 12 Air 13 14 reservoir control valve system fusebox duct cleaner Battery Engine top cover for access spark to coils plugs) 15 Oil filler 16 Engine oil cap dipstick 17 Timing belt cover (remove and 1.6 Maintenance - component locations Front underside view of 1.6 litre model Horn Oil 4 unit filter Radiator cooling Starter motor Radiator Front fan bottom brake hose caliper Driveshaft CV joint Track rod end Manual gaiter transmission drain plug 10 Engine 11 Right-hand oil drain 12 Exhaust 13 Oxygen plug driveshaft downpipe sensor 14 Subframe 15 Suspension arm Rear underside view of 1.6 litre model 1 Brake pipe/hose connection 2 Fuel 3 Handbrake 4 Fuel tank retaining 5 Rear suspension 6 tank cables Rear shock straps arm absorber mounting 7 Rear coil 8 Exhaust rear spring silencer 9 Exhaust heat shield 10 Brake pressure proportioning valve Maintenance procedures w 1 is to prepare yourself before the actual work begins. Read through all the Sections relevant to the work to be carried out, then make a list and gather all the parts and tools required. If a problem is encountered, seek advice from a parts specialist, or a dealer service department. Introduction General information This Chapter is designed to help the home mechanic maintain his/her vehicle for safety, economy, long life and peak performance. The Chapter contains a master m a i n t e n ance schedule, followed by Sections dealing specifically with each task in the s c h e d u l e . Visual c h e c k s , a d j u s t m e n t s , c o m p o n e n t renewal and other helpful items are included. Refer to the accompanying illustrations of the engine compartment and the underside of the vehicle for the locations of the various components. Servicing your vehicle in accordance with the mileage/time maintenance schedule and the following Sections will provide a planned maintenance programme, which should result in a long and reliable service life. This is a c o m p r e h e n s i v e plan, so maintaining s o m e items but not others at the specified service intervals, will not produce the same results. As you service your vehicle, you will discover that many of the procedures can and should - be grouped together, because of the particular procedure being performed, or because of the proximity of t w o otherwise unrelated c o m p o n e n t s to one another. For example, if the vehicle is raised for any reason, the exhaust can be inspected at the same time as the suspension and steering components. The first step in this maintenance programme 2 Regular maintenance 1 If, f r o m the t i m e the vehicle is new, the routine maintenance schedule is f o l l o w e d closely, and frequent checks are made of fluid levels and high-wear items, as s u g g e s t e d t h r o u g h o u t this manual, the engine will be kept in relatively good running condition, and the need for additional work will be minimised. 2 It is possible that there will be times when the engine is running poorly due to the lack of regular maintenance. This is even more likely if a used vehicle, w h i c h has not received regular and frequent maintenance checks, is p u r c h a s e d . In s u c h cases, additional w o r k may need to be carried out, o u t s i d e of the regular maintenance intervals. 3 If engine wear is suspected, a compression test (refer to the relevant part of Chapter 2) will provide valuable information regarding the overall performance of the main internal c o m p o n e n t s . Such a test can be used as a basis to decide on the extent of the work to be carried out. If, for example, a compression test indicates serious internal engine wear, conventional maintenance as described in this Chapter will not greatly improve the perform- ance of the engine, and may prove a waste of t i m e and money, unless extensive overhaul work is carried out first. 4 The following series of operations are those most often required to improve the performance of a generally poor-running engine: Primary operations a) Clean, inspect and test the battery (See Weekly checks and Section 6, where applicable). b) Check all the engine-related fluids (See Weekly checks). c) Check the condition and tension of the auxiliary drivebelt (Sections 7 and 21). d) Renew the spark plugs (Section 18). e) Check the condition of the air filter, and renew if necessary (Section 19). f) Check the fuel filter, where applicable (Section 20). g) Check the condition of all hoses, and check for fluid leaks (Section 9). h) Check the exhaust gas emissions (Section 24). 5 If the above operations do not prove fully effective, carry out the following secondary operations: Secondary operations All items listed under Primary operations, plus the following: a) Check the charging system (see Chapter 5A, Section 4). b) Check the ignition system (see Chapter 5B). c) Check the fuel system (see relevant Part of Chapter 4). d) Renew the ignition HT leads, if applicable. Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 3 Engine oil and filter renewal % I 1 Frequent oil and filter changes are the most important maintenance procedures which can be undertaken by the DIY owner. As engine oil ages, it b e c o m e s diluted and contaminated, which leads to premature engine wear. 2 The oil change interval given in this Manual is the same as q u o t e d by the manufacturer, but o w n e r s of older vehicles (or t h o s e c o v e r i n g a small annual mileage) may feel justified in c h a n g i n g the oil and filter more frequently, perhaps every 6000 miles, or every 6 months. The quality of engine oil used is a significant factor in this - the 12 000-mile interval o n l y applies if a high-quality synthetic-based oil is used. 3 Before starting this p r o c e d u r e , gather all the necessary tools and materials. Also make sure that you have plenty of clean rags and n e w s p a p e r s handy, to m o p up any spills. Ideally, the engine oil should be w a r m , as it will drain better, and more built-up sludge will be removed with it. Take care, however, not to touch the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine w h e n w o r k i n g under the vehicle. To avoid any possibility of s c a l d i n g , and to protect yourself from possible skin irritants and other harmful c o n t a m i n a n t s in u s e d engine oils, it is advisable to wear gloves when carrying out this work. 4 Remove the oil filler cap (see illustration), and take out the dipstick. 5 Access to the underside of the vehicle will be greatly improved if it can be raised on a lift, driven onto r a m p s , or j a c k e d up and s u p p o r t e d on axle stands (see Jacking and vehicle support). Whichever m e t h o d is c h o s e n , make sure that the vehicle remains level, or if it is at an angle, that the drain plug is at the lowest point. 6 Where a p p l i c a b l e , unscrew the fasteners and remove the engine undertray, for access to the drain plug. On 1.8 litre engines, the drain plug can be reached from the back of the engine, and a panel is p r o v i d e d in the undertray, which can be hinged d o w n to get to the filter (see illustration). 3.4 R e m o v i n g t h e oil filler c a p o n a 1.6 litre m o d e l 3.6 R e m o v i n g t h e oil filter a c c e s s panel o n a 1.8 litre m o d e l i.a Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) rt'!' • 3.7 O n s o m e m o d e l s , a special s o c k e t is r e q u i r e d t o l o o s e n t h e s u m p drain p l u g 3.8 Draining t h e e n g i n e oil 3.11 R e m o v i n g t h e oil filter o n a 1.8 litre model 7 Using a special s o c k e t where necessary, slacken the drain plug (on the base of the sump) about half a turn (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Position the draining container under the drain p l u g , t h e n r e m o v e the plug c o m p l e t e l y . Recover the sealing ring from the drain plug. 8 Allow s o m e t i m e for the old oil to drain, noting that it may be necessary to reposition the container as the oil flow slows to a trickle (see illustration). 15 With the car on level g r o u n d , fill the engine, using the correct grade and type of oil (see Lubricants and fluids). An oil can spout or funnel may help to reduce spillage (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Pour in half the specified quantity of oil first, then wait a few minutes for the oil to fall to the sump. 16 Continue adding oil a small quantity at a time until the level is up to the MIN mark on the dipstick. Adding around 1.0 litre of oil will now bring the level up to the MAX on the dipstick - do not worry if a little too much goes in, as s o m e of the apparent excess will be taken up in filling the oil filter. Refit the dipstick and the filler cap. 17 Start the engine and run it for a few minutes; check for leaks around the oil filter seal and the s u m p drain plug. Note that there may be a few s e c o n d s ' delay before the oil pressure w a r n i n g light g o e s out w h e n the engine is started, as the oil circulates through the engine oil galleries and the new oil filter before the pressure builds up. 18 S w i t c h off the engine, and wait a few minutes for the oil to settle in the sump once more. With the new oil circulated and the filter c o m p l e t e l y full, recheck the level on the dipstick, and add more oil as necessary. 19 Dispose of the used engine oil safely, with reference to General repair procedures in the Reference section of this manual. adjacent to the brake caliper. With the ignition on, touch the wiring plug to earth, and check that the warning light comes on. 9 After all the oil has d r a i n e d , w i p e off the drain plug w i t h a clean rag, and fit a new sealing washer. Clean the area a r o u n d the drain plug opening, and refit the plug. Tighten the plug securely. 10 Move the container into position under the 011 filter, which is located on the front of the cylinder block. 11 Using an oil filter removal tool if necessary, slacken the filter initially, then unscrew it by hand the rest of the way (see illustration). Empty the oil in the filter into the container. 12 Use a clean rag to remove all oil, dirt and s l u d g e from the filter sealing area on the engine. Check the old filter to make sure that the rubber sealing ring has not stuck to the engine. If it has, carefully remove it. 13 Apply a light coating of clean engine oil to the sealing ring on the new filter, then screw it into position on the engine (see illustration). Tighten the filter firmly by hand only - d o n o t use any tools. 14 Remove the old oil f r o m under the car, then refit the undertray or access panel (as applicable). Lower the car to the ground. 3.13 Fit a n d t i g h t e n t h e n e w oil filter by h a n d only - d o n o t use any t o o l s 4 Front brake pad check ^ 1 1 Firmly apply the h a n d b r a k e , loosen the front road wheel bolts, then jack up the front of the car and support it securely on axle stands. Remove the front roadwheels. 2 For a comprehensive check, the brake pads s h o u l d be r e m o v e d and c l e a n e d . The operation of the caliper can then also be checked, and the condition of the brake disc itself can be fully e x a m i n e d on b o t h sides. Refer to Chapter 9. 3 If any pads friction material is worn to the specified thickness or less, all four pads must be renewed as a set. 4 C h e c k the operation of the pad wear warning light by disconnecting the wiring plug 5 Automatic transmission fluid level check ^ i| f| 1 Ideally, the fluid level must be checked with the engine/transmission at operating t e m p e r a t u r e . This can be achieved by checking the level after a journey of at least 10 miles. If the level is checked when cold, follow this up with a level check when the fluid is hot. 2 Park the car on level ground, and apply the handbrake very firmly. As an added precaution, chock the front and rear wheels, so that the car cannot move. 3 With the engine idling, move the selector lever gently from position P to position 1, and back to P. 4 The fluid level d i p s t i c k is located on the front of the transmission. Before removing the dipstick, thoroughly clean the area around it no dirt or debris must be allowed to enter the transmission. 5 Extract the dipstick, and wipe it clean using a clean piece of rag or tissue. Re-insert the d i p s t i c k completely, then pull it out o n c e more. The fluid level should be between the reference marks on the side of the d i p s t i c k m a r k e d HOT (if the level is c h e c k e d w h e n c o l d , use the markings on the COLD side of the dipstick). 6 If topping-up is required, this is done via the dipstick tube. It is most important that no dirt 3.15 Filling t h e engine w i t h oil Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 1.9 4 On batteries where the level can be checked but not topped-up, if the level is low, consult a dealer or a u t o m o t i v e electrical specialist as to the best course of action (likely to be fitting a replacement battery). 7 A - -A 6.3 T o p p i n g - u p t h e b a t t e r y e l e c t r o l y t e or debris enters the transmission as this is done - use a clean funnel (preferably with a filter) and fresh fluid from a clean container. 7 Pour the fresh fluid a little at a time d o w n the d i p s t i c k t u b e , c h e c k i n g the level frequently. 8 When the level is correct, refit the dipstick and switch off the engine. Battery electrolyte level check A Warning: The electrolyte inside a battery is diluted acid - it is a good idea to wear suitable rubber gloves. When topping-up, don't overfill the cells so that the electrolyte overflows. In the event of any spillage, rinse the electrolyte off without delay. Refit the cell covers and rinse the battery with copious quantities of clean water. Don't attempt to siphon out any excess electrolyte. Auxiliary drivebelt tension check N o t e : On models with 1.4 and 1.8 litre engines, an automatic belt tensioner is used, and regular tension checks are not required. Check the belt condition at the specified intervals, however, as described in Section 21. 1 The only belt tension specifications quoted by FIAT are for use with their dedicated belt tensioning e q u i p m e n t , and are not of great practical help. The advice given below should be treated as a rough guide, and should be a d e q u a t e in most cases. If there is serious c o n c e r n over belt t e n s i o n , refer to a FIAT dealer for advice. 2 If a drivebelt is set too tight, it will subject the driven unit to excess l o a d , resulting in premature wear of the unit (and of the belt). If the belt is too slack, it will not transmit drive properly, and the belt will suffer wear due to slippage. 1.2 litre engine 3 Two or three separate belts are used on this engine, d e p e n d i n g on w h e t h e r or not air conditioning is fitted. 4 For improved access to the belts, remove the three bolts securing the engine top cover, and lift the cover away. 5 Each of the drivebelts is c h e c k e d and adjusted in much the same way. To check the p o w e r steering p u m p drivebelt, remove the bolt securing the belt upper cover, and remove the cover. To a c c e s s the air c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt, refer to paragraphs 16 to 18. 6 Press on the belt at the c e n t r e - p o i n t b e t w e e n the t w o pulleys, and t h e drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 m m . Alternator drivebelt 7 If adjustment is required, loosen the nuts and bolts on the t w o adjuster slots, and the lower m o u n t i n g t h r o u g h - b o l t . Pivot the alternator as necessary using a suitable lever to set the belt tension, then re-tighten all the fasteners (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Take care when levering the alternator that no d a m a g e is c a u s e d to the alternator or s u r r o u n d i n g components. 8 On models with air conditioning, note that if the air c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt needs adjusting, this will affect the alternator belt tension. Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt 9 If adjustment is required, loosen the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot, and the lower mounting through-bolt. Pivot the compressor as necessary using a suitable lever to set the belt tension, then re-tighten all the fasteners. Take care when levering the compressor that no d a m a g e is caused to the c o m p r e s s o r or surrounding components. 10 Note that if the air c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m pressor drivebelt needs a d j u s t i n g , this will affect the alternator belt tension. 1 Models covered by this Manual are fitted with a ' l i m i t e d - m a i n t e n a n c e ' battery as standard e q u i p m e n t (or may have had a 'maintenance-free' one fitted as a replacement). If the battery in your vehicle is m a r k e d ' F r e e d o m ' , ' M a i n t e n a n c e - F r e e ' or similar, no electrolyte level c h e c k i n g is required (the battery is often c o m p l e t e l y sealed, preventing any topping-up). 2 Batteries which do require their electrolyte level to be checked can be recognised by the presence of level markings and removable covers over the six battery cells - the battery casing is also sometimes translucent, so that the electrolyte level can be more easily checked. Some of the batteries fitted by FIAT have level markings, but no means of toppingup! 3 Remove the cell covers and either look down inside the battery to see the level web, or c h e c k the level using any markings provided on the battery c a s i n g . The electrolyte should at least cover the battery plates. If necessary, t o p up a little at a time with distilled (de-ionised) water until the level in all six cells is correct - don't fill the cells up t o the brim (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . W i p e up any spillage, then refit the cell covers. 7.7 L o o s e n t h e alternator m o u n t i n g s (arrowed) a n d pivot t h e alternator t o t e n s i o n t h e belt i.io Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 7.11 P o w e r s t e e r i n g p u m p a d j u s t e r b o l t (arrowed) Power steering p u m p drivebelt 11 If adjustment is required, loosen the nuts and bolts on the t w o adjuster slots, and the upper mounting through-bolt. The belt tension is set by now turning the adjuster bolt at the front of the p u m p m o u n t i n g bracket (see illustration). When the belt tension is correct, re-tighten all the fasteners and refit the belt upper cover. 1.6 litre engine 12 T w o or three separate belts are used on this engine, depending on whether or not air conditioning is fitted. Power steering p u m p drivebelt 13 Check the power steering p u m p drivebelt 7.14a L o o s e n t h e p u m p m o u n t i n g b o l t s , 7.14c . . . t h e n t u r n t h e a d j u s t e r b o l t a s required before tightening the locknut 7.13 To i m p r o v e a c c e s s t o t h e p o w e r s t e e r i n g p u m p drivebelt, r e m o v e t h e belt g u a r d first - to improve access, unbolt and remove the drivebelt guard (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Press on the belt at the centre-point b e t w e e n the t w o pulleys, and the drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 m m . 14 If adjustment is required, loosen the pump mountings, the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot, and the adjuster locknut. Turn the adjuster bolt as required to set the belt tension, then retighten the locknut and the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot (see illustrations). 15 With all fixings clockwise through using a spanner on R e - c h e c k the belt necessary. Refit completion. re-tightened, turn the belt one c o m p l e t e revolution, the crankshaft pulley bolt. t e n s i o n , and re-adjust if the drivebelt guard on 7.14b . . . a n d t h e nut a n d bolt o n t h e adjuster s l o t . . . 7.18 R e m o v i n g t h e w h e e l a r c h inner panel Alternator/coolant p u m p drivebelt 16 With the car parked on a level surface, apply the handbrake and c h o c k the rear wheels. Loosen the right-hand front wheel bolts. 17 Raise the front of the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands and remove the righthand front road wheel. 18 U n s c r e w and release the fasteners securing the wheelarch inner panel, to gain access to the belt run (see illustration). 19 Press firmly on the belt, midway between the crankshaft and water p u m p pulleys (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . The belt should deflect by approximately 5 m m . 20 Refer to the advice given in paragraph 2, noting that the lower drivebelt drives the alternator and coolant pump. 21 If a d j u s t m e n t is required, loosen the tensioner upper and lower bolts. Using an Allen key, turn the hex adjuster as required to set the belt t e n s i o n , then re-tighten the tensioner bolts (see illustration). 22 Turn the belt c l o c k w i s e t h r o u g h one complete revolution, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. R e - c h e c k the belt tension, and re-adjust if necessary. 23 On completion, refit the wheelarch access panel and the roadwheel, and lower the car to the g r o u n d . Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. 7.19 C h e c k i n g t h e drivebelt t e n s i o n Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) L H 7.21 Set t h e belt t e n s i o n , t h e n t i g h t e n t h e tensioner bolts 8.3 Lift u p t h e w e a t h e r s t r i p w h i c h fits over t h e filter a c c e s s panel 8.4a U n d o t h e t w o s c r e w s . Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt 24 Press on the belt at the c e n t r e - p o i n t between the two pulleys, on the opposite side t o the tensioner wheel. The drivebelt should deflect by approximately 5 m m . 25 If adjustment is required, loosen the bolt on the adjuster slot, and the pivot bolt at the top of the tensioner arm. 26 Loosen the locknut at the front of the arm, and turn the adjuster bolt as required to move the tensioner wheel and set the belt tension. 27 On completion, re-tighten all the fasteners. With all fixings r e - t i g h t e n e d , turn the belt c l o c k w i s e t h r o u g h one c o m p l e t e revolution, using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Re-check the belt tension, and readjust if necessary. 8 Pollen filter renewal Note: A pollen filter is not fitted to all models, and one was not actually fitted to our main project vehicle seen in the workshop. 1 The air entering the vehicle's ventilation system is passed through a very fine pleatedpaper air filter element, w h i c h removes particles of pollen, dust and other airborne foreign matter. To ensure its c o n t i n u e d effectiveness, this filter's element m u s t be renewed at regular intervals. Failure to renew the element will also result in greatly-reduced airflow into the passenger c o m p a r t m e n t , reducing demisting and ventilation. 2 The pollen filter is located in the air intake at the base of the windscreen. Open the bonnet for access. 3 Lift up the separate section of weatherstrip which fits over the top edge of the pollen filter access panel (see illustration). 4 U n s c r e w and r e m o v e the t w o retaining bolts, and pull out the pollen filter access panel (see illustrations). 5 Reach in t h r o u g h the access panel, and release the t w o spring clips which retain the pollen filter. Lower the filter out of its location, noting which way up it fits (see illustration). 6 As far as possible, clean the inside of the filter h o u s i n g , and the inside of the access panel. 8.4b . . . a n d lift o u t t h e a c c e s s panel 8.5 R e m o v e t h e pollen filter by releasing t h e t w o clips (arrowed) 7 Fit the new filter into position, and secure with the t w o clips. 8 Refit the access panel, secure with the two bolts, and clip the weatherstrip into position. looking for is any indication of a serious leak (see H a y n e s Hint). Should a leak be f o u n d , renew the offending gasket or oil seal by referring to the appropriate Chapters in this manual. 2 Also check the security and condition of all the engine-related pipes and hoses. Ensure that all cable-ties or securing clips are in place and in g o o d condition. Clips that are broken or missing can lead to chafing of the hoses, pipes or w i r i n g , w h i c h c o u l d cause more serious problems in the future. 9 Hose and fluid leak check 1 Visually inspect the engine joint faces, gaskets and seals for any signs of water or oil leaks. Pay particular attention to the areas around the cylinder head, oil filter and s u m p joint faces. Bear in mind that, over a period of t i m e , s o m e very slight seepage from these areas is to be expected - what you are really HAYNES A leak in the cooling s y s t e m will usually show up a s whiteor rust-coloured deposits on the areas adjoining the leak. 3 Carefully c h e c k the radiator hoses and heater hoses along their entire length. Renew any hose that is c r a c k e d , swollen or deteriorated. Cracks will show up better if the hose is squeezed. Pay close attention to the hose clips that secure the hoses to the cooling system c o m p o n e n t s . Hose clips can pinch and puncture hoses, resulting in cooling system leaks (see illustration). 9.3 C h e c k all h o s e s a n d their retaining clips 1.12 Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 4 Inspect all the cooling system components (hoses, joint faces etc.) for leaks. A leak in the cooling system will usually show up as whiteor r u s t - c o l o u r e d d e p o s i t s on the area adjoining the leak. Where any problems of this nature are f o u n d on system c o m p o n e n t s , renew the c o m p o n e n t or gasket w i t h reference to Chapter 3. 5 Where applicable, inspect the a u t o m a t i c transmission fluid cooler hoses for leaks or deterioration. 6 With the vehicle raised, inspect the fuel tank and filler neck for punctures, cracks and other damage. The connection between the filler neck and t a n k is especially critical. Sometimes a rubber filler neck or connecting hose will leak due to loose retaining clamps or deteriorated rubber. 7 Carefully check all rubber hoses and metal fuel lines leading away f r o m the fuel tank. Check for loose c o n n e c t i o n s , deteriorated hoses, crimped lines, and other damage. Pay particular attention to the vent pipes and hoses, which often loop up around the filler neck and can b e c o m e b l o c k e d or c r i m p e d . Follow the lines to the front of the vehicle, carefully inspecting them all the way. Renew damaged sections as necessary. 8 From within the engine compartment, check the security of all fuel hose attachments and pipe unions, and inspect the fuel hoses and v a c u u m hoses for kinks, chafing and deterioration (see illustration). 9 Check the condition of the power steering fluid hoses and pipes. 10 Transmission and driveshaft gaiter check I 1 Raise the front of the vehicle and support on axle s t a n d s . Alternatively, drive the car onto ramps. 2 Inspect around the transmission for any sign of leaks or damage. In particular, check the area around the driveshaft oil/fluid seals for leakage. Slight seepage should not be of great c o n c e r n , but a serious leak should be investigated further, with reference to C h a p ter 7A or 7B. 3 Check the security and c o n d i t i o n of the wiring and wiring plugs on the transmission housing. 4 With the vehicle raised and securely s u p p o r t e d on stands, turn the steering onto full lock, then slowly rotate the r o a d w h e e l . Inspect the c o n d i t i o n of the outer c o n s t a n t velocity (CV) joint rubber gaiters, squeezing the gaiters to open out the folds. Check for signs of cracking, splits or deterioration of the rubber, w h i c h may allow the grease to escape, and lead to water and grit entry into the joint. Also c h e c k the security and condition of the retaining clips. Repeat these checks on the inner CV joints. If any damage or deterioration is found, the gaiters should be renewed (see Chapter 8). 9.8 C h e c k all fuel a n d v a c u u m h o s e s 11.3 C h e c k all b r a k e p i p e s a n d f i t t i n g s for corrosion 5 At the s a m e t i m e , c h e c k the general condition of the CV joints themselves by first holding the driveshaft and a t t e m p t i n g to rotate the wheel. Repeat this check by holding the inner joint and a t t e m p t i n g to rotate the driveshaft. A n y appreciable movement indicates wear in the joints, wear in the driveshaft splines, or a loose driveshaft retaining nut. pipes are securely located by the clips provided on the vehicle underside. 4 At the rear of the vehicle, inspect each rear brake and its flexible hose, where applicable. Examine the handbrake cable, tracing it back from each rear brake and checking for frayed cables or other d a m a g e . Lubricate the handbrake cable guides, pivots and other moving parts with general-purpose grease. 11 Braking system pipes and hoses check 1 Starting under the bonnet, e x a m i n e the brake fluid reservoir and master cylinder for leaks. When a brake fluid leak o c c u r s , it is normal to find blistered or wrinkled paint in the area of the leak. Check the metal pipes from the master cylinder for d a m a g e , and c h e c k the brake pressure regulator, servo/ABS unit and fluid unions for leaks. 2 With the vehicle raised and securely supported on stands, first inspect each front brake caliper. In particular, check the flexible hose leading to the caliper for signs of d a m a g e or leaks, especially where the hose enters the metal end fitting. Make sure that the hose is not twisted or kinked, and that it c a n n o t c o m e into c o n t a c t w i t h any other components when the steering is on full lock. 3 From the caliper, trace the metal brake pipes back along the car. Again, look for leaks from the fluid unions or signs of damage, but additionally c h e c k the pipes for signs of corrosion (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . M a k e sure the 12.2 C h e c k all e x h a u s t j o i n t s for s i g n s of corrosion damage 5 If any damage is f o u n d , refer to Chapter 9 for further information. 12 Exhaust system check | 1 With the engine cold (at least an hour after the vehicle has been driven), c h e c k the complete exhaust system from the engine to the end of the tailpipe. The exhaust system is most easily checked with the vehicle raised on a hoist, or suitably supported on axle stands, so that the exhaust c o m p o n e n t s are readily visible and accessible. 2 Check the exhaust pipes and connections for evidence of leaks, severe corrosion and damage (see illustration). Make sure that all brackets and m o u n t i n g s are in g o o d condition, and that all relevant nuts and bolts are tight. Leakage at any of the joints or in other parts of the system will usually show up as a black sooty stain in the vicinity of the leak. 3 Rattles and other noises can often be traced to the exhaust system, especially the b r a c k e t s and m o u n t i n g s (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . 12.3 C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of all e x h a u s t mounting brackets and rubbers Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) 1.13 Try to move the pipes and silencers. If the c o m ponents are able to come into contact with the body or suspension parts, secure the system with new mountings. Otherwise separate the joints (if possible) and twist the pipes as necessary to provide additional clearance. 13 Steering and suspension check ^ Front suspension and steering check 1 Raise the front of the vehicle, and securely s u p p o r t it on axle stands. Where necessary for i m p r o v e d access, release the fasteners and remove the engine undertray (where applicable). 2 Visually inspect the balljoint dust covers and the steering rack-and-pinion gaiters for splits, chafing or deterioration. Any wear of these components will cause loss of lubricant, together with dirt and water entry, resulting in rapid deterioration of the balljoints or steering gear (see illustration). ,3 Check the power steering fluid hoses for chafing or deterioration, and the pipe and hose unions for fluid leaks. Also check for signs of fluid leakage under pressure from the steering gear rubber gaiters, which w o u l d indicate failed fluid seals within the steering gear. 4 Grasp the roadwheel at the 12 o'clock and 6 o ' c l o c k positions, and try to rock it. Very slight free play may be felt, but if the movement is appreciable, further investigation is necessary to determine the source. Continue rocking the wheel while an assistant depresses the footbrake. If the movement is now eliminated or significantly reduced, it is likely that the hub bearings are at fault. If the free play is still evident with the footbrake depressed, then there is wear in the suspension joints or mountings. Before condemning any c o m p o nents, however, check that the roadwheel bolts are tightened to the specified torque. 5 Now grasp the wheel at the 9 o'clock and 3 o ' c l o c k p o s i t i o n s , and try t o rock it as before. Any movement felt now may again be c a u s e d by wear in the hub bearings or the steering t r a c k - r o d balljoints. If the inner or outer balljoint is w o r n , the visual m o v e m e n t will be obvious. 6 Using a large screwdriver or flat bar, check for wear in the suspension mounting bushes by levering between the relevant suspension c o m p o n e n t and its attachment point. S o m e movement is to be expected as the mountings are m a d e of rubber, but excessive wear should be obvious. Also check the condition of any visible rubber bushes, looking for splits, cracks or contamination of the rubber. 7 With the car standing on its wheels, have an assistant turn the steering wheel back and forth a b o u t an eighth of a turn each w a y . There s h o u l d be very little, if any, lost m o v e m e n t b e t w e e n the steering wheel and roadwheels. If this is not the case, closely observe the joints- and mountings previously described, but in addition, check the steering column universal joints for wear, and the rackand-pinion steering gear itself. Suspension strut/shock absorber check 8 Check for any signs of fluid leakage around the suspension strut/shock absorber body, or from the rubber gaiter around the piston rod. Should any fluid be noticed, the suspension s t r u t / s h o c k absorber is defective internally, and should be r e n e w e d . N o t e : Suspension struts/shock absorbers should always be renewed in pairs on the same axle. 9 The efficiency of the suspension strut/shock absorber may be c h e c k e d by bouncing the vehicle at each corner. Generally speaking, the body will return to its normal position and stop after being depressed. If it rises and returns on a r e b o u n d , the suspension strut/shock absorber is probably suspect. Examine also the suspension strut/shock absorber upper and lower mountings for any signs of wear. 14 Underbody protection check f^> Raise and support the vehicle on axle stands. Using an electric torch or lead light, inspect the entire underside of the vehicle, paying particular attention to the wheelarches. Look for any damage to the flexible underbody coating, which may crack or flake off with age, leading to corrosion. Also check that the wheelarch liners are securely attached with any clips provided - if they come loose, dirt may get in behind the liners and defeat their purpose. If there is any damage to the underseal, or any corrosion, it should be repaired before the damage gets too serious. 15 Lights and horn operation check f| |k 1 With the ignition s w i t c h e d on where necessary, check the operation of all exterior lights. 2 Check the brake lights with the help of an assistant, or by reversing up close to a reflective door. Make sure that all the rear lights are capable of operating independently, without affecting any of the other lights - for example, switch on as many rear lights as possible, then try the brake lights. If any unusual results are f o u n d , this is usually due to an earth fault or other poor connection at that rear light unit. 3 Again with the help of an assistant or using a reflective surface, check as far as possible that the headlights w o r k on b o t h main and dipped beam. 4 Replace any defective bulbs with reference to Chapter 12. 13.2 C h e c k t h e c o n d i t i o n of t h e b a l l j o i n t rubber covers Particularly on older vehicles, bulbs can stop working as a result of ^ corrosion build-up on the bulb or its holder - fitting a new bulb may not cure the problem in this instance. When replacing any bulb, if you find any green or white-coloured powdery deposits, these should be cleaned off using emery cloth. 5 Check the operation of all interior lights, including the glovebox and luggage area illumination lights. Switch on the ignition, and check that all relevant warning lights c o m e on as e x p e c t e d - the vehicle h a n d b o o k should give details of these. Now start the engine, and check that the appropriate lights go out. When you are next driving at night, check that all the instrument panel and facia lighting w o r k s correctly. If any p r o b l e m s are f o u n d , refer to Chapter 12, Section 5. 6 Finally, choose an appropriate time of day to test the operation of the horn. 16 Hinge and lock lubrication Lubricate the hinges of the bonnet, doors and tailgate with light g e n e r a l - p u r p o s e oil. Similarly, lubricate all latches, locks and lock strikers, and the d o o r c h e c k straps w i t h general-purpose oil or grease (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . At the s a m e t i m e , c h e c k the 16.1 L u b r i c a t e t h e d o o r h i n g e s a n d c h e c k straps 1.14 Every 12 000 miles (20 000 km) security and operation of ail the locks, adjusting them if necessary (see Chapter 11). Lightly lubricate t h e bonnet release mechanism and cable with suitable grease. Do not attempt to lubricate the steering lock. 17 Road test Instruments electrical and equipment 1 Check the operation of all instruments and electrical equipment. 2 M a k e sure that all instruments read correctly, and switch on all electrical e q u i p ment in turn, to check that it functions properly. Steering and suspension 3 Check for any abnormalities in the steering, suspension, handling or road 'feel'. 4 Drive the vehicle, and check that there are no unusual vibrations or noises. 5 Check that the steering feels positive, with no excessive 'sloppiness', or roughness, and c h e c k for any suspension noises w h e n cornering and driving over bumps. Drivetrain 6 C h e c k t h e p e r f o r m a n c e of t h e engine, clutch (where applicable), transmission and driveshafts. 7 Listen for any unusual noises f r o m the engine, clutch and transmission. 8 Make sure the engine runs smoothly at idle, and there is no hesitation on accelerating. 9 Check that, where applicable, t h e c l u t c h action is s m o o t h and progressive, that the drive is taken up smoothly, and that the pedal travel is not excessive. Also listen for any noises when the clutch pedal is depressed. 10 On manual transmission m o d e l s , c h e c k that all gears can be engaged s m o o t h l y without noise, and that the gear lever action is not abnormally vague or 'notchy'. 11 On automatic transmission models, make sure that all g e a r c h a n g e s occur s m o o t h l y , without snatching, and without an increase in engine speed between changes. Check that all the gear positions can be selected with the vehicle at rest. If any problems are found, they should be referred to a FIAT dealer. 12 Listen for a metallic clicking sound from the front of the vehicle, as the vehicle is driven slowly in a circle with the steering on full-lock. Carry out this c h e c k in both directions. If a Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) 18 Spark plug renewal attention between scheduled replacement intervals. Spark plug cleaning is rarely necessary, and should not be attempted unless specialised equipment is available, as damage can easily be caused to the firing ends. clicking noise is heard, this indicates wear in a driveshaft joint, in which case renew the joint if necessary. Braking system 13 Make sure that the vehicle does not pull to one side when braking, and that the wheels do not lock prematurely when braking hard. 14 Check that there is no vibration through the steering when braking. 15 Check that t h e handbrake operates correctly without excessive movement of the lever, and that it holds the vehicle stationary on a slope. 16 Test the operation of the brake servo unit as follows. With the engine off, depress the f o o t b r a k e four or five times t o exhaust the v a c u u m . Hold the brake pedal d e p r e s s e d , then start the engine. As the engine starts, there should be a noticeable 'give' in the brake pedal as vacuum builds up. Allow the engine to run for at least t w o minutes, and then switch it off. If the brake pedal is depressed now, it should be possible to detect a hiss from the servo as the pedal is depressed. After about four or five applications, no further hissing should be heard, and t h e pedal should feel considerably harder. away the cover for access to the spark plugs and leads (see illustrations). 1.2, 1.4 and 1.6 litre engines 1 The correct functioning of the spark plugs is vital for the correct running and efficiency of the engine. It is essential that the plugs fitted are appropriate for the engine (a suitable type is specified at the beginning of this Chapter). If this type is used and the engine is in g o o d condition, the spark plugs should not need 2 Before removing the spark plugs, allow the engine time to cool. 3 Remove the three bolts securing the engine top cover, loosen the fourth bolt at the rear of the timing cover (where applicable), a n d lift 4 Release the HT leads from the retaining clips o n t h e t o p of the cylinder head as necessary. 5 If the marks on the original-equipment spark plug (HT) leads cannot be seen, mark the leads 1 to 4, to correspond to the cylinder the lead serves (No 1 cylinder is at the timing belt end of the engine). 18.3a R e m o v e t h e t h r e e s c r e w s (arrowed)... 18.3b . . . loosen t h e s c r e w b e h i n d t h e timing cover . . . 18.3c . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e e n g i n e t o p c o v e r - 1.4 litre e n g i n e 1.2 and 1.4 litre engines Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) 1.15 18.6 Pull t h e HT leads off t h e s p a r k p l u g s 18.7a R e m o v i n g o n e of t h e Allen s c r e w s under t h e oil filler c a p 18.7b Lifting off t h e e n g i n e t o p c o v e r 6 Carefully pull the lead end fittings upwards from the plugs, and (where applicable) out of the recesses in the cylinder head. Grip the end f i t t i n g , not t h e lead, otherwise the lead connection may be fractured (see illustration). 10 Starting with No 1 coil, unscrew the t w o bolts securing the coil to the cylinder head (see illustration). 11 Carefully pull the coil and plug connector upwards off the plug, and withdraw it from the cylinder head recess (see illustration). 1.8 litre All 14 Examination of the spark plugs will give a good indication of the condition of the engine. If the insulator nose of the spark plug is clean and white, with no deposits, this is indicative of a weak mixture or too hot a plug (a hot plug transfers heat away from the electrode slowly, a cold plug transfers heat away quickly). engine engines 15 If the tip and insulator nose are covered with hard black-looking deposits, then this is indicative that the mixture is too rich. Should the plug be black and oily, then it is likely that the engine is fairly w o r n , as well as the mixture being too rich. 7 Unscrew the oil filler cap, and remove the t w o Allen s c r e w s c o n c e a l e d u n d e r n e a t h . Remove the six main cover bolts, and lift off the engine top cover, for access to the ignition coil assemblies (see illustrations). 8 Disconnect the wiring plugs f r o m the ignition coil which fits over each spark plug (see illustration). 9 To avoid transposing the ignition coils, it is advisable to work on one assembly at a time. Alternatively, mark the coil assemblies for position, noting that No 1 coil is nearest the timing belt end of the engine. 12 It is advisable to remove the debris from the spark plug recesses using a clean brush, v a c u u m cleaner or c o m p r e s s e d air before removing the plugs. If this is not done, this debris will drop into the cylinders or lodge in the spark plug threads. 13 U n s c r e w the plugs using a spark plug spanner, suitable box spanner or a deep socket and extension bar (see illustrations). Keep the socket aligned with the spark plug if it is forcibly moved to one side, the ceramic insulator may be broken off. As each plug is removed, examine it as follows. 18.8 D i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g p l u g f r o m e a c h coil 18.10 U n s c r e w t h e t w o coil retaining b o l t s 18.11 Pull t h e coil u p w a r d s off its s p a r k plug 18.13a U n s c r e w t h e p l u g s u s i n g a s o c k e t a n d e x t e n s i o n bar - 1 . 6 litre e n g i n e . . . 18.13b . . . a n d o n t h e 1.4 litre e n g i n e 18.13c . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e m f r o m t h e engine - note the t w i n - e a r t h electrode plug 16 If the insulator nose is covered with lightcoloured deposits, then the mixture is correct and it is likely that the engine is in g o o d condition. 17 The spark plug electrode gap is of considerable importance as, if it is too large or too small, the size of the spark and its efficiency will be seriously impaired. Where the Lie Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) It is very often difficult to insert spark plugs into their holes without crossthreading them. To avoid this possibility, fit a short length of 5/16 inch internal diameter rubber hose over the end of the spark plug. The flexible hose acts as a universal joint to help align the plug with the plug hole. Should the plug begin to cross-thread, the hose will slip on the spark plug, preventing thread damage to the aluminium cylinder head gap can be adjusted, it should be set to the value specified at the start of this Chapter. N o t e : Spark plugs with multiple earth electrodes are becoming an increasingly common fitment, especially to vehicles equipped with catalytic converters. Unless there is clear information to the contrary, no attempt should be made to adjust the plug gap on a spark plug with more than one earth electrode. 18 To set the gap, measure it with a feeler blade and then bend o p e n , or c l o s e d , the outer plug electrode until the correct gap is achieved. The centre electrode should never be bent, as this may crack the insulator and cause plug failure, if nothing worse. If using feeler blades, the gap is correct w h e n the appropriate-size blade is a firm sliding fit. 19 Special spark plug electrode gap adjusting tools are available from most motor a c c e s s o r y s h o p s , or f r o m s o m e spark plug manufacturers. 20 Before fitting the spark plugs, check that the threaded connector sleeves are tight, and that the plug exterior surfaces and threads are clean. It's often difficult to screw in new spark plugs without cross-threading them - this can be avoided using a piece of rubber hose (see H a y n e s Hint). 21 Remove the rubber hose (if used), and tighten the plug to the specified torque using the spark plug socket and a torque wrench. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten the plug by hand until it just seats, then tighten it by no more than a quarter of a turn further with the plug s o c k e t and handle. Refit the remaining spark plugs in the same manner. 22 Refit the HT leads (or ignition coils) securely in their correct order. 23 Where applicable, refit the engine t o p cover, using a reversal of the removal procedure. 19.1 L o o s e n t h e s e c u r i n g clip, a n d pull off t h e air inlet d u c t . . . 19.2a L o o s e n t h e s e c u r i n g s c r e w s (arrowed)... < 19.2b . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e air cleaner lid 19.3 Lift o u t t h e air filter e l e m e n t , n o t i n g w h i c h w a y r o u n d it f i t s 19 Air filter renewal 20 Fuel filter renewal I 1 Release the metal retaining band securing the air inlet d u c t to the air cleaner lid, and separate the d u c t f r o m the lid (see illustration). 2 Remove the screws securing the air cleaner lid, and lift the lid away (see illustrations). 3 Lift out the filter element, noting which way round it fits (see illustration). 4 Remove any debris that may have collected inside the air cleaner. 5 Fit a new air filter element in position, noting any direction-of-fitting markings and ensuring that the edges are securely seated. 6 Refit the air cleaner lid and secure with the s c r e w s . Refit the air inlet d u c t , and secure with the retaining band. 20.3 U n s c r e w t h e b o l t s s e c u r i n g t h e filter c o v e r panel A Warning: Refer to the notes in Safety first!, and follow them implicitly. Petrol is a highlydangerous and volatile liquid, and the precautions necessary when handling it cannot be overstressed. N o t e : On later 1.6 litre models, and all 1.2 litre models, an in-line fuel filter is not fitted (even though the plastic cover panel still appears under the car). On these models, the only filters are fitted to the base of the fuel pump/sender unit, inside the fuel tank - these are not routinely replaced. 1 The fuel filter is situated underneath the rear of the vehicle, next to the fuel tank. To gain access to the filter, c h o c k the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the vehicle and support it securely on axle stands. 2 Depressurise the fuel system with reference to the relevant Part of Chapter 4. 3 To gain access to the filter, unbolt and remove the plastic cover panel fitted underneath it (see illustration). 4 If y o u have t h e m , fit hose c l a m p s to the filter inlet and outlet hoses. These are not essential, but even with the system depressurised, there will still be an amount of petrol in the pipes (and the old filter), and this will s i p h o n out w h e n the pipes are disconnected. Even with hose clamps fitted, the old filter will contain s o m e fuel, so have some rags ready to soak up any spillage. Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) 1.17 5 Before removing the filter, note any direction-of-flow markings on the filter body, and check against the new filter - the arrow s h o u l d point in the direction of fuel f l o w (following the hose leading to the front of the car) (see illustration). 6 The inlet and outlet hoses are e q u i p p e d with quick-release connectors. To release the c o n n e c t o r s , squeeze t h e m t o g e t h e r at the sides, then pull apart (see illustration). 7 Loosen the retaining c l a m p bolt and remove the old filter (see illustration). 8 If the fuel hoses show any sign of damage, or if the quick-release c o n n e c t o r s are not making a secure fit, seek the advice of a FIAT dealer on renewing the hoses. 9 Fit the new filter into position, with the flow marking arrow correctly orientated, and tighten the retaining c l a m p bolt (see illustration). 10 Reconnect the fuel hoses, ensuring that no dirt is allowed to enter the hoses or filter c o n n e c t i o n s , and that the quick-release connectors click together fully. 11 Start the engine (there may be a delay as the system re-pressurises and the new filter fills with fuel). Let the engine run for several minutes while y o u c h e c k t h e filter hose connections for leaks. 12 Refit the cover panel below the filter, secure with the bolts, then lower the vehicle to the ground. Warning: Dispose safely of the old filter; it will be highly flammable, and may explode if thrown on a fire. A 21 Auxiliary drivebelt check and renewal 1.2 litre engine 1 Remove the three bolts securing the engine upper cover, and remove the cover for access to the belts. 2 With the car parked on a level surface, apply the handbrake and c h o c k the rear wheels. Loosen the right-hand front wheel bolts. 3 Raise the front of the vehicle, rest it securely on axle stands and remove the righthand front roadwheel. 4 Unscrew and release the fasteners securing the wheelarch inner panel, to gain access to the belt run. 20.5 N o t e t h e f l o w d i r e c t i o n a r r o w b e f o r e r e m o v i n g t h e o l d filter 20.6 D i s c o n n e c t i n g o n e of t h e q u i c k release h o s e s 7 Note that it is not unusual for a ribbed belt to exhibit small cracks in the edges of the belt ribs, and unless these are extensive or very deep, belt renewal is not essential. 8 Using a socket and wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt, rotate the crankshaft so that the full length of the drivebelt can be examined. 9 If the belt is to be r e m o v e d , loosen the fasteners described in Section 7 and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 10 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly with the pulley grooves. Tension the belt using the information in Section 7. 17 If the belt is to be removed, first remove the air c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt (where applicable) as d e s c r i b e d previously. Loosen the fasteners on the alternator as described in Section 7, and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 18 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly w i t h the pulley grooves. On models with air conditioning, loosely fit the alternator drivebelt first, then fit and tension the c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt before tensioning the alternator belt. Tension the drivebelts using the information in Section 7. Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt 1.6 litre 11 Where fitted, the drivebelt is the 'middle' drivebelt of three. The compressor is mounted at the rear of the engine, below the alternator. 12 C h e c k the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. 13 If the belt is to be removed, first remove the p o w e r steering p u m p drivebelt as described previously. Loosen the fasteners on the c o m p r e s s o r as d e s c r i b e d in Section 7, and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 14 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly w i t h the pulley grooves. Tension the c o m p r e s s o r and p u m p drivebelts using the information in Section 7. 19 To improve access, remove the wheelarch inner panel as described in paragraphs 2 to 4. Alternator drivebelt 15 The alternator is fitted at the rear of the engine. 16 C h e c k the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. engine Air conditioning c o m p r e s s o r drivebelt 20 The air c o n d i t i o n i n g c o m p r e s s o r is mounted at the front of the engine. 21 Check the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. 22 Loosen the fasteners on the tensioner pulley as described in Section 7, and slip the drivebelt from the pulleys. 23 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Fit the belt around the pulleys as noted on removal, with the flat side of the belt over the tensioner wheel. Make sure that the belt ribs engage properly with the pulley grooves. Make sure that any slack in the belt is adjacent to the tensioner. b) Tension the belt using the information Section 7. in Power steering p u m p drivebelt 5 The power steering p u m p is located at the front of the engine. Check the condition of the pump drivebelt as follows. 6 Look for cracks, splitting and fraying on the surface of the belt; c h e c k also for signs of glazing (shiny patches) and separation of the belt plies. If damage or wear is visible, the belt should be renewed. If there is any evidence of contamination by oil, grease or coolant, the reason should be investigated without delay. 20.7 R e m o v i n g t h e fuel filter 20.9 T i g h t e n t h e filter c l a m p bolt securely Lis Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) be removed first, as described previously. Loosen the pump mountings, the nut and bolt on the adjuster slot, and the adjuster locknut. Turn the adjuster bolt to slacken the belt tension, then slip the belt from the power steering pump pulley (see illustrations). 29 Refitting the belt'is a reversal of removal, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly with the pulley grooves. Tension the belt using the information in Section 7. 1.4 and 1.8 litre 21.25b . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e auxiliary drivebelt f r o m t h e pulleys 21.25a L o o s e n t h e t e n s i o n e r b o l t s . . . c) Refit the wheelarch access panel and the roadwheel, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. Alternator/coolant p u m p drivebelt 24 C h e c k the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. 25 If the belt is to be r e m o v e d , either for servicing work or renewal, remove the air c o n ditioning compressor belt (where applicable) as described previously. Loosen the tensioner bolts, and release the belt t e n s i o n . Noting how the belt is fitted around the pulleys, slip the belt off and remove it (see illustrations). 26 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Fit the belt around all the pulleys as noted on removal, apart from the tensioner pulley, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly with the pulley grooves. b) c) d) ej Make sure that any slack in the belt is adjacent to the tensioner. Turn the tensioner pulley fully anticlockwise, then slip the flat side of the belt over the tensioner pulley. Tension the belt using the information in Section 7. Where applicable, refit the air conditioning compressor drivebelt as described previously. Refit the wheelarch access panel and the roadwheel, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. Power steering p u m p drivebelt 27 C h e c k the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. 28 If the belt is to be removed, either for servicing work or renewal, the lower belt (which drives the alternator and coolant pump) must ^^^^^ 4 \ \ \ \ A \ 21.28b . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e drivebelt f r o m t h e s t e e r i n g p u m p pulley engines 30 To improve access, remove the wheelarch inner panel as described in paragraphs 2 to 4. Also r e m o v e the upper guard f r o m the drivebelt, w h i c h is secured by t w o bolts release the hose which is also clipped to the belt guard (see illustration). 31 C h e c k the belt using the information in paragraphs 6 to 8. 32 If the belt is to be r e m o v e d , either for servicing work or renewal, first note how the belt is fitted around the pulleys. Using a spanner on the drivebelt tensioner bolt, rotate the tensioner a n t i - c l o c k w i s e to release the belt tension, then slip the belt from the pulleys (see illustration). 33 Refitting the belt is a reversal of removal, noting the following points: a) Fit the belt around all the pulleys as noted on removal, apart from the tensioner pulley, making sure that the belt ribs engage properly with the pulley grooves. Make sure that any slack in the belt is adjacent to the tensioner. b) Turn the tensioner pulley fully anticlockwise, then slip the flat side of the belt over the tensioner pulley. c) Release the tensioner, and allow it to tension the belt. d) Using a spanner on the crankshaft pulley bolt, turn the belt clockwise through one complete revolution, checking that the belt runs true, and that the belt ribs stay located in the pulley grooves. e) Refit the wheelarch access panel and the roadwheel, and lower the car to the ground. Tighten the wheel bolts to the specified torque. 22 Clutch cable adjustment N o t e : This check does not apply to models with a hydraulically-operated clutch - the clutch on these models is self-adjusting. Refer to Chapter 6, Section 2. 23 Handbrake adjustment 21.30 R e m o v i n g t h e drivebelt u p p e r g u a r d 21.32 Release t h e belt t e n s i o n , t h e n slip t h e belt f r o m t h e pulleys % 1 The handbrake should be fully applied by the fifth click from the handbrake lever ratchet mechanism. Every 24 000 miles (40 000 km) 1.19 2 To fully c h e c k t h e operation of the h a n d brake, chock the front wheels, then jack up the rear of the car and support it on axle stands. 3 Release the h a n d b r a k e c o m p l e t e l y , and check that both rear wheels are free to turn. If this is not the case, either the handbrake has been over-adjusted, the cable is binding, or there is a problem with the rear drums (investigate using the information in Chapter 9). 4 Apply the handbrake by three clicks of the ratchet. By this point, both rear wheels should become difficult to turn by hand. By the time the lever has been set to the fifth notch (if not before) the wheels should be completely locked. 5 In practice, it may be f o u n d that the lever will not travel five notches - provided the handbrake releases completely, and can be fully a p p l i e d , it is p e r h a p s unnecessary to adjust the cable in this instance. If the lever travels more than five notches, adjustment is required, as follows. 6 Remove the gaiter from the handbrake lever, for access to the adjuster nut. The gaiter clips into a collar/groove at the base of the handbrake grip, and has a lip around its base which clips into the hole in the centre console. Release the gaiter, and lift it over the handbrake lever. 7 Adjust the nut at the base of the lever as required, until the operation of the handbrake is satisfactory. On completion, lower the rear of the car to the ground. 24 Exhaust emissions check ^> This c h e c k is part of the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s maintenance schedule, and involves testing the exhaust emissions using an exhaust gas analyser. Unless a fault is suspected, this test is not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. In the majority of cases, adjusting the idle speed and mixture is either not possible, or requires access to d e d i c a t e d FIAT test e q u i p m e n t . Exhaust emissions testing is included as part of the MoT test. 25 Engine management system j K fault code check 1 This c h e c k is part of the m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s maintenance schedule, and involves ' i n t e r r o g a t i n g ' the engine management control unit (and t h o s e for the a u t o m a t i c transmission and/or ABS, as applicable) using special d e d i c a t e d test e q u i p m e n t . Such testing will allow the test equipment to read any fault codes stored in the electronic control unit memory (see illustration). Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) 26 Brake fluid renewal A 1 Warning: Brake hydraulic fluid can harm your eyes and damage painted surfaces, so use extreme caution when handling and pouring it. Do not use fluid that has been standing open for some time, as it absorbs moisture from the air. Excess moisture can cause a dangerous loss of braking effectiveness. 1 The p r o c e d u r e is similar to that for the bleeding of the hydraulic system as described in Chapter 9. The brake fluid reservoir should be e m p t i e d by s i p h o n i n g , using a clean poultry baster or similar before starting, and allowance should be made for the old fluid to be expelled w h e n bleeding a section of the circuit. 3 T o p - u p to the MAX level with new fluid, and c o n t i n u e p u m p i n g until only the new fluid remains in the reservoir, and new fluid can be seen emerging from the bleed screw. Tighten the screw, and top the reservoir level up to the MAX level line. 4 Work through all the remaining bleed screws in the sequence until new fluid can be seen at all of t h e m . Be careful to keep the master cylinder reservoir topped-up to above the MIN level at all times, or air may enter the system and greatly increase the length of the task. 5 When the operation is complete, check that all bleed screws are securely tightened, and that their dust caps are refitted. Wash off all traces of spilt fluid, and recheck the fluid level. 2 W o r k i n g as d e s c r i b e d in Chapter 9, open the first bleed s c r e w in the s e q u e n c e , and p u m p the brake pedal gently until nearly all the old fluid has been e m p t i e d f r o m the master cylinder reservoir. ^ Old hydraulic fluid is often much darker in colour than the new, making it easy to distinguish the two. 27.3 U n s c r e w i n g t h e t r a n s m i s s i o n oil filler/level p l u g 25.1 Connector plug for use w i t h diagnostic equipment - 1 . 6 litre m o d e l s h o w n 2 Unless a fault is suspected, this test is not essential, although it should be noted that it is recommended by the manufacturers. 3 It is possible for quite serious faults to o c c u r in the engine m a n a g e m e n t s y s t e m without the owner being aware of it. Certain engine management system faults will cause the system to enter an e m e r g e n c y b a c k - u p m o d e , w h i c h is often so s o p h i s t i c a t e d that engine performance is not apparently m u c h affected. If a problem has caused the system to enter its back-up mode, this will usually be m o s t apparent w h e n starting and running from cold. 6 Check the operation of the brakes before taking the car on the road. 27 Manual transmission oil level check 1 Park the car on a level surface. The oil level must be checked before the car is driven, or at least 5 minutes after the engine has been switched off. If.the oil is checked immediately after driving the car, s o m e of the oil will remain d i s t r i b u t e d around the transmission c o m p o n e n t s , resulting in an inaccurate level reading. 2 T h e filler/level plug is on t h e front of the transmission h o u s i n g , typically next to the reversing light switch. Access is possible from a b o v e , but is better f r o m below, o n c e the engine undertray has been removed (where applicable). 3 Wipe clean the area around the filler/level plug. A large Allen key or s o c k e t will be required to r e m o v e the p l u g , w h i c h will probably be quite tight (see illustration). 4 Remove the plug, and check the oil level. This can be d o n e w i t h your finger; alternatively, a piece of bent wire c a n be inserted through the plug hole to assess the oil level inside the transmission - if this is 1.20 Every 36 000 miles (60 000 km) 27.4a R e m o v e t h e filler/level plug . . done, make sure that whatever is used cannot break off or fall inside (see illustrations). 5 The oil level should reach the lower edge of the filler/level hole. A certain amount of oil will have gathered behind the filler/level plug, and will trickle out when it is removed; this does n o t necessarily indicate that t h e level is correct. To ensure that a true level is e s t a b l i s h e d , wait until t h e initial trickle has s t o p p e d , then a d d oil t h r o u g h the hole as necessary until a trickle of new oil can be seen emerging (see illustration). The level will be correct when the flow ceases; use only g o o d quality oil of the specified type. 6 Filling t h e transmission with oil is an extremely awkward operation; above all, allow plenty of time for the oil level to settle properly before checking it. If a large amount is added to the transmission, and a large amount flows out on checking the level, refit the filler/level plug; take the vehicle on a short journey so that the new oil is distributed fully around the transmission c o m p o n e n t s , then recheck the level when it has settled again. 7 If the transmission has been overfilled so that oil flows out when the filler/level plug is r e m o v e d , c h e c k that t h e car is c o m p l e t e l y level (front-to-rear and s i d e - t o - s i d e ) , and allow the surplus t o drain off into a suitable container. 27.4b . . . a n d c h e c k t h e oil level u s i n g a suitable p r o b e 27.5 If necessary, t o p - u p t h e oil level, until oil j u s t s t a r t s t o t r i c k l e o u t 8 When t h e level is c o r r e c t , refit t h e p l u g , tightening it to the specified torque, and wipe off any spilt oil. Refit the engine undertray (where removed). 9 FIAT d o not state that the transmission oil need ever be drained and refilled as part of the routine maintenance schedule. However, a car w h i c h has c o v e r e d a large mileage would clearly benefit from this being done. For t h o s e o w n e r s w h o wish t o c h a n g e t h e transmission oil, a drain plug is provided on the base of t h e transmission housing (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Once the oil has been drained, tighten the plug t o the specified torque, and refill until the level is correct. 27.9 T r a n s m i s s i o n oil d r a i n p l u g (arrowed) 28 Rear brake shoe check 1 On some models, the thickness of friction material remaining on one of the brake shoes can be o b s e r v e d t h r o u g h an inspection window in the brake backplate. 2 Loosen the rear wheel bolts and chock the front wheels. Jack up the rear of the car and s u p p o r t on axle s t a n d s . Remove t h e rear wheels. Every 48 000 miles (80 000 km) 29 Evaporative emission control system C h e c k §^ ^ Check all t h e engine v a c u u m and fuel vapour hoses associated w i t h t h e system (typically blue in colour) for signs of cracking, leaks, and general deterioration. For more i n f o r m a t i o n , see Chapter 4 C . This c h e c k is Every 72 000 miles (120 000 km) Refer to the relevant Part of Chapter 2. 30 Timing belt renewal 1 3 The Inspection w i n d o w in t h e brake b a c k p l a t e may be plugged with a sealing grommet, which can be prised out. A torch or inspection light will probably be required, as well as a small mirror if access is difficult. If the friction material on any shoe is worn down to the specified minimum thickness or less, all four shoes must be renewed as a set. 4 For a c o m p r e h e n s i v e c h e c k (or on cars where no inspection window is provided), the brake drum should be removed and cleaned. This will also allow the wheel cylinders to be checked, and the condition of the brake drum itself to be fully examined (see Chapter 9). particularly relevant if any fuel smells have been noted, in which case all fuel pipes and connections should be closely inspected. Maintenance procedures 1.21 31.3a O p e n i n g t h e r a d i a t o r b l e e d s c r e w o n a 1.4 litre e n g i n e . . . 31.3b . . . a n d o n a 1.6 litre e n g i n e 31.3c Typical heater h o s e bleed s c r e w • 1.4 litre e n g i n e s h o w n Every 2 years (regardless of mileage) 31 Coolant renewal Cooling A system draining Warning: Wait until the engine is cold before starting this procedure. Do not allow antifreeze to come in contact with your skin, or with the painted surfaces of the vehicle. Rinse off spills immediately with plenty of water. Never leave antifreeze lying around in an open container, or in a puddle in the driveway or on the garage floor. Children and pets are attracted by its sweet smell, but antifreeze can be fatal if ingested. 1 With the engine completely cold, cover the expansion tank c a p w i t h a w a d of rag, and slowly turn the c a p anti-clockwise to relieve the pressure in the cooling system (a hissing sound will normally be heard). Wait until any pressure remaining in the system is released, then continue to turn the c a p until it can be removed. Depending on model, there will be one or t w o on or around the radiator, and one in each of the hoses leading to the heater (towards the engine compartment bulkhead) {see illustrations). 4 Position a suitable container beneath the radiator bottom hose connection, then release the retaining clip and ease the hose from the radiator s t u b (see i l l u s t r a t i o n s ) . S o m e models have hose clips which cannot be reused, as they have to be cut off. Take care not to d a m a g e the hose as this is d o n e , and obtain new clips for refitting. 8 If the coolant has been drained for a reason other than renewal, then provided it is clean and less than t w o years old, it can be re-used, though this is not recommended (see Antifreeze type and mixture later in this Section). 5 If the hose joint has not been disturbed for s o m e t i m e , it will be necessary t o gently manipulate the hose to break the joint. Do not use excessive force, or the radiator stub could be d a m a g e d . Allow the coolant to drain into the container. Some models also have a drain tap at the base of the radiator. 10 If coolant renewal has been neglected, or if the antifreeze mixture has become diluted, then in time, the cooling system may gradually lose efficiency, as the coolant passages become restricted due to rust, scale deposits, and other sediment. Flushing the system clean can restore the cooling system efficiency. 6 On 1.6 litre models, a cylinder block drain plug is p r o v i d e d on the front of the engine, next to the starter m o t o r (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Removing this plug will allow more complete draining to be carried out. 9 Once all the coolant has drained, reconnect the hose to the radiator and secure it in position w i t h the retaining clip. Where applicable, apply a little sealant to the block drain plug t h r e a d s , then fit and tighten it securely. Cooling system flushing 11 The radiator should be flushed independently of t h e engine, t o avoid unnecessary contamination. Radiator flushing 3 Open all the cooling system bleed screws. 7 On 1.6 and 1.8 litre models, loosen the clip securing t h e small-diameter hose t o t h e thermostat housing - this hose leads back to the expansion tank. FIAT state that this hose must be blown through (with compressed air) to ensure that all coolant has drained from it. If compressed air is not available, disconnect the hose and allow it to drain - antifreeze may be harmful if ingested. 12 To flush the radiator, disconnect the top a n d b o t t o m h o s e s a n d any other relevant hoses f r o m the radiator, w i t h reference to Chapter 3. 13 Insert a garden hose into the radiator top inlet. Direct a flow of clean water through the radiator, and c o n t i n u e flushing until clean water e m e r g e s f r o m the radiator b o t t o m outlet. 31.4a L o o s e n t h e r a d i a t o r b o t t o m h o s e clip... 31.4b . . . t h e n release t h e b o t t o m h o s e f r o m t h e radiator, a n d d r a i n t h e c o o l a n t into a c o n t a i n e r 31.6 Cylinder b l o c k drain p l u g (arrowed) o n 1.6 litre e n g i n e 2 Where necessary, release the fasteners and remove the engine undertray. On all models except those with the 1.4 litre engine, access to the radiator and cooling system bleed screws may be improved by removing the two screws securing the air inlet shroud over the radiator. 1.22 Every 2 years 29 Start the engine and run it at idle. 30 Particularly on models with air c o n d i t i o n i n g , have an assistant raise the engine speed to a p p r o x i m a t e l y 3000 r p m every 30 s e c o n d s while the engine is w a r m i n g - u p . When this is d o n e , carefully o p e n the bleed screw on the heater hose bear in mind the dangers of hot coolant - and bleed out any trapped air. 31.24a R e m o v e t h e e x p a n s i o n t a n k cap... 31.24b . . . a n d fill t h e s y s t e m s l o w l y 14 If after a reasonable period, the water still does not run clear, the radiator can be flushed with a g o o d proprietary cooling system cleaning agent. It is i m p o r t a n t that their m a n u f a c t u r e r ' s instructions are f o l l o w e d carefully. If the contamination is particularly b a d , insert the hose in the radiator b o t t o m outlet, and reverse-flush the radiator. 20 Before adding antifreeze, the cooling system should be c o m p l e t e l y d r a i n e d , preferably flushed, and all hoses checked for condition and security. 21 After filling with antifreeze, a label should be attached to the expansion tank, stating the t y p e and c o n c e n t r a t i o n of antifreeze u s e d , and the date installed. Any s u b s e q u e n t t o p p i n g - u p s h o u l d be m a d e with the same type and concentration of antifreeze. Engine flushing 15 To flush the engine, remove the t h e r m o s t a t as d e s c r i b e d in Chapter 3, then temporarily refit the thermostat cover. 16 With the t o p and bottom hoses d i s c o n n e c t e d f r o m the radiator, insert a garden hose into the radiator top hose. Direct a clean flow of water through the engine, and continue flushing until clean water emerges from the radiator bottom hose. 17 On c o m p l e t i o n of flushing, refit the t h e r m o s t a t and reconnect the hoses with reference to Chapter 3. Antifreeze type and mixture 18 The antifreeze should always be renewed at the specified intervals. This is necessary not only to maintain the antifreeze properties, but also t o prevent corrosion w h i c h w o u l d otherwise o c c u r as the corrosion inhibitors become progressively less effective. 19 A l w a y s use ethylene-glycol-based antifreeze suitable for use in m i x e d - m e t a l cooling systems. The total system capacity is q u o t e d in the Specifications, as well as the percentage of neat antifreeze required to give adequate p r o t e c t i o n against freezing (and corrosion). 31.27 Bleed s c r e w (arrowed) o n heater hose 22 Do not use engine antifreeze in the washer system, as it will cause damage to the vehicle paintwork. Cooling system filling 31 Initially, add more coolant as necessary to keep the level up to the MAX mark, but only for the first few minutes after the engine is started. 32 Once the coolant level has stabilised, refit the expansion tank c a p securely. Let the engine c o n t i n u e to w a r m up until normal operating temperature is reached, indicated by the temperature gauge, or by the radiator fan cutting in. Keep the engine running for a few more minutes, then switch it off and allow it to cool for several hours (preferably, overnight). 33 Check for leaks, particularly around disturbed components. 34 Check the coolant level in the expansion tank, and t o p - u p if necessary. Note that the system must be cold before an accurate level is indicated in the expansion tank. Airlocks 23 Before a t t e m p t i n g to fill the cooling system, make sure that all hoses and clips are in good condition, and that the clips are tight. Note that an antifreeze mixture must be used all year r o u n d , to prevent c o r r o s i o n of the engine c o m p o n e n t s (see following s u b Section). 35 If, after draining and refilling the system, symptoms of overheating are found which did not occur previously, then the fault is almost certainly due to trapped air at some point in the system, causing an airlock and restricting the flow of coolant; usually, the air is trapped because the system was refilled too quickly. 24 Remove the expansion tank filler cap, and fill the system by slowly pouring the coolant into the e x p a n s i o n tank to prevent airlocks from forming (see illustrations). 25 If the coolant is being renewed, begin by pouring in a litre of water, f o l l o w e d by the correct quantity of antifreeze to make up the required mixture, then t o p - u p w i t h more water. The best o p t i o n , if suitable clean containers are available, is to make up the mixture before pouring it in. Bear in mind that the system capacities q u o t e d are only a p p r o x i m a t e - it is unlikely that all the old coolant will have drained, so allowance must be made when refilling. 36 If an-airlock is s u s p e c t e d , first try gently squeezing all visible coolant hoses. A coolant hose which is full of air feels quite different to one full of coolant, w h e n s q u e e z e d . After refilling the s y s t e m , m o s t airlocks will clear o n c e the system has c o o l e d , and been topped up. 26 During the initial stages of filling, squeeze the radiator t o p and b o t t o m hoses to help expel any t r a p p e d air in the s y s t e m . Fill the system until coolant (free of air bubbles) e m e r g e s f r o m the radiator bleed screw(s), then tighten them securely. 27 Continue filling the system until coolant emerges from the bleed screws on the heater hoses, then tighten the s c r e w s (see illustration). 28 Now top-up the coolant level to the MAX mark and refit the expansion tank cap loosely. Particularly on models with air conditioning, it is important not to overfill the expansion tank at this stage. 37 While the engine is running at operating temperature, switch on the heater and heater fan, and check for heat output. Provided there is sufficient coolant in the system, lack of heat o u t p u t c o u l d be due to an airlock in the system. 38 Airlocks can have more serious effects than simply reducing heater output - a severe airlock could reduce coolant flow around the engine. Check that the radiator top hose is hot when the engine is at operating temperature a t o p hose which stays cold c o u l d be the result of an airlock (or a n o n - o p e n i n g thermostat). 39 If the problem persists, s t o p the engine and allow it to cool down c o m p l e t e l y , before unscrewing the expansion tank filler c a p or opening the bleed screws and squeezing the hoses to bleed out the t r a p p e d air. In the worst case, the system will have to be at least partially drained (this time, the coolant can be saved for re-use) and flushed to clear the problem. 12»1 Chapter 12 Body electrical systems Contents Airbag system - precautions and general information Airbag system components - removal and refitting Anti-theft alarm/engine immobiliser system general information Bulbs (exterior lights) - renewal Bulbs (interior lights) - renewal Cigarette lighter - removal and refitting Electrical fault finding - general information Exterior light units - removal and refitting Fuses and relays - general information General information and precautions Headlight beam alignment - general information 21 22 20 4 5 15 2 6 3 1 8 Horn - removal and refitting Instrument panel - removal and refitting Loudspeakers - removal and refitting Radio aerial - removal and refitting Radio/cassette player - removal and refitting Speedometer sender unit - removal and refitting Switches - removal and refitting Tailgate wiper motor - removal and refitting Windscreen wiper motor - removal and refitting Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system components removal and refitting Wiper arm - removal and refitting 9 7 10 11 12 13 14 16 18 17 19 Degrees of difficulty §k |k Fairly easy, suitable §x for beginner with suitable for competent expenence jj^ s o m e experience DIY mechanic Specifications Note: The following fuse information is for pre-1998 | k Fairly difficult, Easy, suitable for novice with little ^ D i f f i c u l t suitable for mechanic models. Refer to your handbook ^ experienced DIY for information V e r y difficult, suitable for expert DIY ^ ^ or professional on later models. Main fusebox Fuse Amp Circuit 1 15 2 10 3 10 4 10 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 10 10 10 10 10 10 30 30 20 20 15 30 Reversing lights, stop lights, direction indicators, instrument panel power supply, check panel power supply, electric mirrors control, radio power supply, remote control power supply Radio power supply, internal lighting, glove compartment light, boot light, door lock/unlock remote control power supply, alarm system power supply, clock power supply Right side light and left tail light, right number plate light, radio illumination, instrument panel illumination and side/tail lights warning lamp, cigar lighter illumination, switch panel illumination Left side light and right tail light, left number plate light, manual climate control/heater controls illumination Left dipped beam headlight Right dipped beam headlight, headlight alignment control Right main beam headlight Left main beam headlight, main beam headlight warning light Rearfoglight Hazard lights Heated rear window, heated rear window warning light Electric climate control motor (manual version) Horn Windscreen wiper, windscreen washer, rear window wiper, rear window washer, headlamp washers Electric heater motor, cigar lighter, manual climate control relay 12*2 Body electrical systems Fuses above control unit Fuse Amp Circuit 1 2 3 4 5 6 20 20 20 5 30 7.5 Electric sunroof, heated seats Front foglights Door central locking Airbag Electric windows Electric mirror defrosting Fuses behind glovebox Fuse Amp Circuit 1 2 30 15 Injection system (1.8 litre engine) Fuel pump (1.8 litre engine) Fuses on left-hand side of engine compartment rear panel Fuse Amp Circuit 1 2 3 4 5 80 60 40 30 60 Control unit Optional devices Ignition switch Injection/ignition system ABS system Fuses in front of battery Fuse Amp Circuit 1 20 Headlamp washer 5 ABS Automatic transmission cooling oil circuit Automatic transmission power supply (key) Automatic transmission power supply (battery) • 2 3 4 5 10 10 5 Fuses in centre of engine compartment rear panel Fuse Amp Circuit 1 2 3 4 10 10 5 25 1.4 1.4 1.6 1.6 litre litre litre litre Bulb ratings Watts Headlights (main beam and dipped beam) Front foglight Front sidelight Front direction indicator (orange bulb) Front direction indicator repeater light Rear sidelight Rear direction indicator Rear foglight Stoplight High-level stop light Reversing light Rear number plate light Interior light Glovebox light Rear luggage compartment light 55 55 5 21 5 5 21 21 21 5 21 5 10 5 5 engine engine engine engine injection system fuel p u m p injection system fuel p u m p Torque wrench settings Nm ibf ft Airbag control unit Airbag module to steering wheel Passenger airbag module to body 8 8 7 6 6 5 Body electrical systems 12*3 1 General information and precautions A Warning: Before carrying out any work on the electrical system, read through the precautions given in Safety first! at the beginning of this manual, and in Chapter 5A. Before working on the airbag system, observe the precautions given in Section 21. The electrical system is of 12-volt negative earth t y p e . Power for the lights and all electrical accessories is supplied by a lead/acid t y p e battery, w h i c h is charged by the alternator. This Chapter covers repair and service procedures for the various electrical c o m p o n e n t s not associated with the engine. Information on the battery, alternator and starter motor can be found in Chapter 5A. It should be noted that, prior to working on any c o m p o n e n t in the electrical system the battery negative terminal s h o u l d first be d i s c o n n e c t e d , to prevent the possibility of electrical s h o r t - c i r c u i t s and/or fires. When reconnecting the battery on m o d e l s with a side airbag and presence sensor, ensure there is no one inside the vehicle, as a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag. With the driver's door open, reach inside and turn on the ignition, then check the operation of the airbag warning light. 2 Electrical fault finding general information Note: Refer to the precautions given in Safety first! and in Section 1 of this Chapter before starting work. The following tests relate to testing of the main electrical circuits, and should not be used to test delicate electronic circuits (such as anti-lock braking systems), particularly where an electronic control module (ECU) is used. General 1 A typical electrical circuit consists of an electrical c o m p o n e n t , any switches, relays, motors, fuses, fusible links or circuit breakers related to that component, and the wiring and connectors which link the component to both the battery and the chassis. To help pinpoint a problem in an electrical circuit, wiring diagrams are included at the end of this manual. 2 Before attempting to diagnose an electrical fault, first study the a p p r o p r i a t e wiring d i a g r a m , to obtain a more complete understanding of the components included in the particular circuit concerned. The possible sources of a fault can be narrowed d o w n by noting whether other c o m p o n e n t s related to the circuit are operating properly. If several c o m p o n e n t s or circuits fail at one time, the problem is likely to be related to a shared fuse or earth connection. 3-Electrical p r o b l e m s usually stem f r o m simple causes, s u c h as loose or c o r r o d e d c o n n e c t i o n s , a faulty earth c o n n e c t i o n , a blown fuse, a melted fusible link, or a faulty relay (refer to Section 3 for details of testing relays). Visually inspect the c o n d i t i o n of all fuses, wires and c o n n e c t i o n s in a p r o b l e m circuit before testing the c o m p o n e n t s . Use the wiring diagrams to determine w h i c h terminal connections will need to be checked, in order to pinpoint the trouble-spot. 4 The basic tools required for electrical faultfinding include a circuit tester or voltmeter (a 12-volt bulb with a set of test leads can also be used for certain tests), a self-powered test light (sometimes known as a continuity tester), an o h m m e t e r (to measure resistance), a battery and set of test leads, and a j u m p e r wire, preferably with a circuit breaker or fuse incorporated, which can be used to bypass s u s p e c t wires or electrical c o m p o n e n t s . Before a t t e m p t i n g to locate a p r o b l e m with test instruments, use the wiring diagram to determine where to make the connections. 5 To find the source of an intermittent wiring fault (usually due to a poor or dirty connection, or damaged wiring insulation), a 'wiggle' test can be performed on the wiring. This involves wiggling the wiring by hand, to see if the fault occurs as the wiring is moved. It should be possible to narrow d o w n the source of the fault to a particular section of wiring. This method of testing can be used in conjunction with any of the tests described in the following sub-Sections. 6 Apart from p r o b l e m s due to poor c o n n e c t i o n s , t w o basic t y p e s of fault can occur in an electrical circuit - open-circuit, or short-circuit. 7 Open-circuit faults are caused by a break s o m e w h e r e in the circuit, w h i c h prevents current from flowing. An open-circuit fault will prevent a c o m p o n e n t from w o r k i n g , but will not cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow. 8 Short-circuit faults are caused by a 'short' s o m e w h e r e in the circuit, w h i c h allows the current flowing in the circuit to 'escape' along an alternative route, usually to earth. Shortcircuit faults are normally c a u s e d by a breakdown in wiring insulation, which allows a feed wire to touch either another wire, or an earthed component such as the bodyshell. A s h o r t - c i r c u i t fault will normally cause the relevant circuit fuse to blow. Finding an open-circuit 9 To check for an open-circuit, connect one lead of a circuit tester or voltmeter to either the negative battery terminal or a known good earth. 10 Connect the other lead to a connector in the circuit being tested, preferably nearest to the battery or fuse. 11 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that some circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 12 If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that the section of the circuit b e t w e e n the relevant c o n n e c t o r and the battery is problem-free. 13 Continue to c h e c k the remainder of the circuit in the same fashion. 14 When a point is reached at w h i c h no voltage is present, the p r o b l e m must lie between that point and the previous test point with voltage. Most problems can be traced to a broken, corroded or loose connection. Finding a short-circuit 15 To c h e c k for a short-circuit, first disconnect the load(s) from the circuit (loads are the components which draw current from a circuit, such as bulbs, m o t o r s , heating elements, etc). 16 Remove the relevant fuse from the circuit, and connect a circuit tester or voltmeter to the fuse connections. 17 Switch on the circuit, bearing in mind that s o m e circuits are live only when the ignition switch is moved to a particular position. 18 If voltage is present (indicated either by the tester bulb lighting or a voltmeter reading, as applicable), this means that there is a short-circuit. 19 If no voltage is present, but the fuse still blows w i t h the load(s) c o n n e c t e d , this indicates an internal fault in the load(s). Finding an earth fault 20 The battery negative terminal is c o n n e c t e d to ' e a r t h ' - the metal of the engine/transmission and the car b o d y - and most s y s t e m s are wired so that they only receive a positive feed, the current returning via the metal of the car body. This means that the component mounting and the body form part of that circuit. Loose or c o r r o d e d m o u n t i n g s can therefore cause a range of electrical faults, ranging from total failure of a circuit, to a puzzling partial fault. In particular, lights may shine dimly (especially when another circuit sharing the same earth point is in operation), motors (eg wiper motors or the radiator cooling fan motor) may run slowly, and the operation of one circuit may have an apparently-unrelated effect on another. Note that on many vehicles, earth straps are used b e t w e e n certain c o m p o n e n t s , such as the engine/transmission and the body, usually where there is no m e t a l - t o - m e t a l c o n t a c t between components, due to flexible rubber mountings, etc. 21 To c h e c k whether a c o m p o n e n t is properly earthed, disconnect the battery, and connect one lead of an ohmmeter to a known g o o d earth point. Connect the other lead to the wire or earth connection being tested. The resistance reading should be zero; if not, check the connection as follows. 22 If an earth c o n n e c t i o n is t h o u g h t to be faulty, dismantle the c o n n e c t i o n , and clean back to bare metal both the bodyshell and the wire terminal or the c o m p o n e n t earth 12*4 Body electrical systems 3.2a M a i n f u s e b o x under t h e r i g h t - h a n d side of t h e facia 3.2b Upper f u s e b l o c k a b o v e t h e m a i n fusebox 3.6 A b l o w n f u s e c a n b e r e c o g n i s e d f r o m ' its m e l t e d or b r o k e n w i r e c o n n e c t i o n mating surface. Be careful to remove all traces of dirt and corrosion, then use a knife to trim away any paint, so that a clean m e t a l - t o - m e t a l joint is m a d e . On reassembly, tighten the joint fasteners securely; if a wire terminal is being refitted, use serrated washers b e t w e e n the terminal and the b o d y s h e l l , to ensure a clean and secure c o n n e c t i o n . When the c o n n e c t i o n is remade, prevent the onset of corrosion in the future by applying a coat of petroleum jelly, or by spraying on a proprietary ignition sealer, or a water-dispersant lubricant. 5 Fusible links are located on the left-hand side of the engine c o m p a r t m e n t rear panel, and are a c c e s s e d by u n d o i n g the upper screw and removing the cover. The links are of 3 0 , 40, 50, 60, and 80 a m p rating, a c c o r d i n g to the circuit p r o t e c t e d . It is important to fit a fusible link of the correct rating. in the left-hand front corner of the engine compartment. 13 If a circuit or system controlled by a relay d e v e l o p s a fault, and the relay is suspect, operate the system. If the relay is functioning, it should be possible to hear it click as it is energised. If this is the case, the fault lies with the components or wiring of the system. If the relay is not being energised, then either the relay is not receiving a main s u p p l y or a switching voltage, or the relay itself is faulty. Testing is by the substitution of a known good unit, but be careful - while s o m e relays are identical in a p p e a r a n c e and in o p e r a t i o n , others look similar but perform different functions. 3 Fuses and relays general information Fuses 1 Fuses are designed to break a circuit when a predetermined current is reached, in order to protect the components and wiring which could be damaged by excessive current flow. Any excessive current f l o w will be due to a fault in the circuit, usually a short-circuit (see Section 2). 2 The main fuses are located in the fusebox on the driver's side of the facia. To gain access to the fuses, undo the three s c r e w s and remove the f u s e b o x cover f r o m its retaining tabs. On later models, the fuses are arranged in t w o b l o c k s , and access t o the fuses in the upper block is gained by releasing the plastic cage (see illustrations). 3 A d d i t i o n a l fuses are located behind the glovebox, above the control unit under the facia, and in the engine compartment. Access to the fuses behind the glovebox is gained by removing the trim from inside the glovebox, however on later m o d e l s the c o m p l e t e g l o v e b o x must be r e m o v e d . A c c e s s t o the fuses above the control unit is gained by removing the footwell side trim panel. In the engine c o m p a r t m e n t , additional fuses are located in front of the battery and on the engine compartment rear panel. 4 Refer to the Specifications for the location of fuse circuits, as this varies a c c o r d i n g to model. 6 A b l o w n fuse can be recognised f r o m its melted or broken wire (see illustration). 7 To remove a fuse, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. 8 Pull the fuse from its location, and fit the new fuse. Spare fuses are provided in the main fusebox. 9 Before renewing a b l o w n fuse, trace and rectify the cause, and always use a fuse of the correct rating. Never substitute a fuse of a higher rating, or make temporary repairs using wire or metal foil, as more serious damage, or even fire, could result. 10 Note that the fuses are c o l o u r - c o d e d as f o l l o w s . Refer to the wiring d i a g r a m s for details of the fuse ratings used and the circuits protected. Colour Rating Orange 7.5A Red 10A 15A Blue Yellow 20A Green 30A Relays 11 A relay is an electrically-operated switch, which is used for the following reasons: a) A relay can switch a heavy current remotely from the circuit in which the current is flowing, therefore allowing the use of lighter-gauge wiring and switch contacts. b) A relay can receive more than one control input, unlike a mechanical switch. c) A relay can have a timer function - for example, the intermittent wiper relay. 12 The main relays are located together with the fuses behind the facia on the driver's side. The central door locking and sunroof relays are located behind the glovebox. On 1998-on m o d e l s , additional relays for the air conditioning, headlight washers, and electric cooling fans, are located in front of the battery 14 To renew a relay, first ensure that the relevant circuit is switched off. The relay can then simply be pulled out f r o m the socket, and the new one pushed firmly into position. 4 Bulbs (exterior lights) renewal |g General 1 Whenever a bulb is r e n e w e d , note the following points: a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. b) Remember that, if the light has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) Always check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metalto-metal contact. Clean off any corrosion or dirt before fitting a new bulb. d) Where bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts bear firmly against the bulb contacts. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating, and that it is completely clean before fitting it. f) Pay attention to the orientation when fitting multi-filament bulbs (e.g. combined tail/brake light bulbs). Headlight 2 Open the bonnet. Press the tab downwards Body electrical systems 12*5 to release the clip, then withdraw the plastic cover f r o m t h e rear of t h e headlight (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Note that the inner headlights are f o r main b e a m only, whereas t h e outer headlights are for dipped beam only. 3 Carefully disconnect the wire from the rear of the bulb (see illustration). 4 Release the bulb retaining spring clip and swivel it f r o m t h e rear of t h e b u l b ' ( s e e illustration). 5 W i t h d r a w t h e bulb from t h e rear of t h e headlight (see illustration). 6 When handling the new bulb, use a tissue or clean c l o t h , t o avoid t o u c h i n g t h e glass with the fingers. Moisture and grease from the skin can cause blackening and rapid failure of this t y p e of bulb. If the glass is accidentally touched, wipe it clean using methylated spirit. A v o i d k n o c k i n g or shaking t h e b u l b as this may weaken the filament. 10 The bulb is a push fit in the bulbholder and is removed by pulling it direct from t h e bulbholder (see illustration). 11 Fit t h e new b u l b using a reversal of t h e removal procedure. Front direction indicator 12 O p e n t h e bonnet. The front direction indicator bulbs are located in the rear of the headlight/direction indicator light units. 13 Twist the bulbholder anticlockwise through 90° and withdraw it from the rear of the light unit (see illustration). 14 Depress a n d twist the bulb t o remove it from the bulbholder (see illustration). 15 Fit t h e new bulb using a reversal of t h e removal p r o c e d u r e . Note that an orange c o l o u r e d bulb must be f i t t e d , not the clear t y p e bulb normally f i t t e d where the lens is coloured orange. Front direction indicator side 16 The side repeater is held in position by a plastic spring clip on the rear of the light. One m e t h o d of removing the light w i t h o u t d a m a g i n g t h e p a i n t w o r k is t o remove t h e wheel arch liner first, then reach up behind the wing and depress the clip in order to push out the light f r o m inside. Alternatively, carefully press t h e side repeater light lens in a rearwards d i r e c t i o n , then use a small 7 Install the new bulb, using a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring that its locating tabs are correctly located in the light unit cutouts. Sidelight 8 Open the bonnet. The sidelight bulbs are located in the outer headlight units. Press the t a b d o w n w a r d s t o release t h e clip, then withdraw the plastic cover from the rear of the headlight. 9 Twist the bulbholder t o release it from the rear of the light unit (see illustration). 4.5 . . . a n d w i t h d r a w t h e bulb f r o m t h e rear of t h e h e a d l i g h t 4.10 . . . a n d pull o u t t h e w e d g e - t y p e b u l b 4.13 T w i s t t h e f r o n t d i r e c t i o n i n d i c a t o r a n t i c l o c k w i s e a n d r e m o v e it f r o m t h e rear of t h e light u n i t . . . 4.9 R e m o v e t h e b u l b h o l d e r . 4.14 . then depress and twist the bulb to r e m o v e it 12*6 Body electrical systems 4.16 Carefully release t h e s i d e repeater front tab with a screwdriver . . . 4.17 . . . t h e n t w i s t t h e b u l b h o l d e r t o release it f r o m t h e light u n i t . . . 4.18 . . . a n d pull o u t t h e w e d g e - t y p e bulb screwdriver to release the front tab from the wing (see illustration). 17 Twist the bulbholder a n t i - c l o c k w i s e to release it from the light unit (see illustration). 18 Pull the w e d g e - t y p e b u l b f r o m the bulbholder (see illustration). 19 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. foglight, then turn the cover anticlockwise and remove it. 22 Disconnect the flying lead wire from the rear of the bulb. 23 Release the spring clip, and withdraw the bulb from the rear of the light unit. 24 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure, ensuring that the raised areas engage with the grooves in the light unit. 27 U n s c r e w the t w o retaining k n o b s and withdraw the bulbholder. 28 Depress and twist the relevant bulb to remove it (see illustration). Rear light 30 Disconnect the wiring from the rear light cluster bulbholder (see illustration). 31 Depress the t a b s and w i t h d r a w the bulbholder (see illustration). 32 Depress a n d t w i s t the relevant bulb to remove it (see illustration). The top bulb is for the s t o p light, the m i d d l e bulbs are for the direction indicator and reversing light, and the Front foglight 20 U n s c r e w the three s c r e w s securing the front foglight to the front bumper. The upper one is located in the light c o w l , and the lower two are located on the lower face of the front b u m p e r . With the s c r e w s r e m o v e d , use the screwdriver in the upper screw hole to hook the light unit out from the bumper. 21 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the cluster bulbs 3-door models 25 Open the tailgate. W o r k i n g inside the loadspace, u n d o the screw and remove the cover from the rear of the light cluster. 26 Disconnect the wiring from the rear light cluster bulbholder. 5-door models 29 Open the tailgate. W o r k i n g inside the loadspace, undo the screw and remove the cover f r o m the rear of the light cluster (see illustrations). 4.28 R e m o v i n g a rear light c l u s t e r b u l b 4.29a U n d o t h e s c r e w . . . 4.29b . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e c o v e r for a c c e s s t o t h e rear light c l u s t e r b u l b s 4.30 D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e rear light c l u s t e r 4.31 W i t h d r a w t h e b u l b h o l d e r f r o m t h e rear light c l u s t e r 4.32 R e m o v i n g a bulb f r o m t h e b u l b h o l d e r Body electrical systems 12»7 4.35a B r a c k e t s are f i t t e d t o t h e m i d d l e mounting nuts b o t t o m bulb is of dual filament t y p e f o r t h e rear fog light and tail light. All m o d e l s 33 Fit t h e n e w bulb using a reversal of t h e removal procedure. High-level stop light bulb 34 Open t h e tailgate, then undo the screws securing t h e trim panel. Note o n 5-door models that four of the screws are visible, and four are hidden beneath rubber p a d s . Prise out t h e b u t t o n s securing t h e panel t o t h e tailgate lower edge, and withdraw the panel. On 3 - d o o r m o d e l s , use a w i d e - b l a d e d screwdriver t o prise free the clips. 35 U n s c r e w t h e plastic nuts inside t h e tailgate noting that brackets are fitted to t h e middle nuts. W i t h d r a w t h e high-level s t o p 4.35b W i t h d r a w t h e high-level s t o p light bulb f r o m t h e t a i l g a t e . . . light f r o m t h e tailgate a n d d i s c o n n e c t t h e wiring (see illustrations). 36 U n d o t h e s c r e w s and separate t h e lens from the light unit. Note that it is not possible to remove t h e bulbs individually ( s e e illustrations). 37 Fit t h e new bulbs using a reversal of the removal p r o c e d u r e . D o n o t overtighten t h e light mounting nuts. Rear number plate light 38 Using a screwdriver, depress t h e plastic retainer and withdraw t h e light unit from the rear bumper (see illustration). 39 Twist the bulbholder and remove it from the light body, then pull out t h e w e d g e - t y p e bulb (see illustrations). 40 Fit t h e new bulb using a reversal of t h e removal procedure. 4.35c . . . t h e n d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g 5 Bulbs (interior lights) renewal ^ |S 3Q General 1 Whenever a bulb is r e n e w e d , note t h e following points: a) Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a bulb. b) Remember that, if the light has just been in use, the bulb may be extremely hot. c) Always check the bulb contacts and holder, ensuring that there is clean metalto-metal contact. Clean off any corrosion or dirt before fitting a new bulb. d) Where bayonet-type bulbs are fitted, ensure that the live contacts bear firmly against the bulb contacts. e) Always ensure that the new bulb is of the correct rating, and that it is completely clean before fitting it. Front courtesy (models without light a sunroof) 4.36a U n d o t h e s c r e w s . . . 4.36b . . . a n d s e p a r a t e t h e lens f r o m t h e h i g h level light unit 2 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the s c r e w head covers f r o m t h e c o u r t e s y light. Undo the screws and slide the light unit d o w n t o w a r d s t h e w i n d s c r e e n . Disconnect t h e wiring and remove the light unit. 3 Remove t h e lens by carefully d e p r e s s i n g the rear edge. 4 Extract the bulb from the spring contacts. 4.38 Use a screwdriver t o depress the plastic retainer on the rear number plate light 4.39a T w i s t t h e b u l b h o l d e r f r o m t h e light unit... 4.39b . . . t h e n pull o u t t h e w e d g e - t y p e bulb 12*8 Body electrical systems 5.6a Prise o u t t h e c o v e r s . . . 5.6b . . . t h e n u n d o t h e s c r e w s . . . 5.6c . . . l o w e r t h e c o u r t e s y l i g h t . . . 5 Fit the new b u l b using a reversal of the removal p r o c e d u r e , but m a k e sure that it is held firmly b e t w e e n the spring c o n t a c t s . If necessary, bend the contacts. held firmly b e t w e e n the spring c o n t a c t s . If necessary, bend the contacts. Front courtesy light (models with a sunroof) 6 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the s c r e w head c o v e r s f r o m the courtesy light. Undo the screws and slide the light unit down t o w a r d s the w i n d s c r e e n . Disconnect the wiring and remove the light unit (see illustrations). 5.6d . . . a n d d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g 5.7 R e m o v e t h e b u l b c o v e r 7 Extract the sunroof key, then push the tab and remove the bulb cover (see illustration). 8 Extract the bulb f r o m the spring c o n t a c t s (see illustrations). 9 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal p r o c e d u r e , but make sure that it is 5.8a . . . t h e n use a s c r e w d r i v e r t o release t h e b u l b f r o m its c o n t a c t s . . . Rear courtesy light 10 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the light unit from the headlining (see illustration). 11 Extract the bulb from the spring contacts (see illustration). 12 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure, but m a k e sure that it is held firmly b e t w e e n the spring c o n t a c t s . If necessary, bend the contacts. Luggage compartment light 13 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise the light unit from the loadspace side trim and let it hang by the wiring (see illustration). 5.8b . . . a n d w i t h d r a w t h e f e s t o o n - t y p e bulb Body electrical systems 12*9 14 Extract t h e f e s t o o n - t y p e bulb from the spring contacts (see illustration). 15 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of t h e removal p r o c e d u r e , but make sure that it is held firmly b e t w e e n t h e spring c o n t a c t s . If necessary, bend the contacts. Glovebox light (where fitted) 16 With the glovebox open, prise out the light using a screwdriver. 17 Disconnect t h e wiring a n d remove t h e light unit. Make sure that the wiring remains in the glovebox. 18 Extract the bulb from the spring contacts. 19 Fit t h e new b u l b using a reversal of t h e removal p r o c e d u r e , but make sure that it is held firmly b e t w e e n t h e spring c o n t a c t s . If necessary, bend the contacts. Instrument panel illumination 20 Remove t h e instrument panel as described in Section 7. 21 The b u l b s / b u l b h o l d e r s are a bayonet fitting in the rear of the instrument panel. Turn the bulbholder a n t i c l o c k w i s e t o r e m o v e it, then pull out t h e w e d g e - t y p e b u l b ( s e e illustrations). 22 Fit t h e new bulb using a reversal of t h e removal procedure. Cigarette lighter illumination 23 Remove the cigarette lighter as described in Section 15. 24 Remove t h e bulbholder a n d cover f r o m the s u r r o u n d , then w i t h d r a w the b u l b (see illustrations). 25 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of the removal procedure. Heater control illumination 26 Remove t h e heater control s u r r o u n d as described in Chapter 3, Section 9. 27 Pull the wedge-type bulb from its location in the heater control panel (see illustration). 28 Fit the new bulb using a reversal of t h e removal procedure. 6 Exterior light units removal and refitting |§j Caution: Ensure that the relevant electrical circuit is isolated before removing a light unit. If in doubt, disconnect the battery negative lead before starting work. Headlight/front indicator light direction Removal 6.1 D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e h e a d l i g h t unit 6.2 R e m o v i n g t h e h e a d l i g h t u p p e r mounting bolts 1 With t h e b o n n e t o p e n , d i s c o n n e c t t h e wiring from the rear of the headlight unit (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . There are wiring plugs for t h e headlights, sidelights, direction indicator light and beam adjuster. 2 Mark t h e position of t h e headlight upper mounting bolts located on the crossmember, then unscrew and r e m o v e t h e m (see illustration). 3 Carefully withdraw the headlight unit from 12*10 Body electrical systems the front of t h e car and release t h e outer location ball f r o m its s o c k e t w i t h a suitable lever (see illustrations). Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but align the upper mounting bolts with the previouslymade marks before tightening t h e m . Finally, have the headlight beam alignment checked with reference to Section 8. Front direction repeater light indicator side 5 The procedure is described as part of the bulb renewal procedure in Section 4. Front foglight 6 U n s c r e w the three s c r e w s securing t h e front foglight t o the front bumper. The upper one is located in the light cowl, and the lower two are located on the lower face of the front b u m p e r . With t h e s c r e w s r e m o v e d , use a screwdriver in the upper screw hole to hook the light unit out from the bumper. 7 Disconnect the wiring from the rear of the foglight. 8 To separate the foglight from the mounting b r a c k e t / c o w l , undo t h e three crosshead screws. 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 10 On c o m p l e t i o n , check the foglight beam alignment. If necessary, the b e a m may be altered using the adjustment screw accessible t h r o u g h t h e hole on t h e b o t t o m f a c e of the front bumper. Rear light cluster 3-door models 11 Open t h e tailgate. W o r k i n g inside t h e loadspace, undo the screws and prise out the buttons, then remove the trim panel from the rear valance, using a wide-bladed screwdriver to release the clips. 12 U n d o t h e s c r e w and remove t h e corner trim panel for access t o the rear of the rear light cluster (see illustrations). 13 Disconnect the wiring from the rear light cluster bulbholder. If necessary, remove the bulbholder c o m p l e t e by unscrewing t h e retaining knobs (see illustration). 14 Support the light cluster from the outside, then unscrew the mounting nuts and withdraw the light unit from the body. If necessary, remove the sealing gasket (see illustrations). 5-door models 6.12b . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e c o r n e r t r i m panel 6.13 D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e rear light c l u s t e r b u l b h o l d e r 15 Open t h e tailgate. W o r k i n g inside the loadspace, undo the screws and prise out the buttons, then remove the trim panel from the rear valance. 16 Undo the screw and remove the fastener, then remove the complete corner trim panel for access to the rear of the rear light cluster (see illustration). 17 Disconnect the wiring from the rear light cluster bulbholder. If necessary, remove the bulbholder complete. 18 The light cluster is mounted on a bracket bolted t o t h e inside of t h e l o a d s p a c e . 6.14a R e m o v i n g t h e rear light c l u s t e r 6.14b R e m o v i n g t h e sealing g a s k e t 6.16 R e m o v i n g t h e c o r n e r t r i m panel Body electrical systems 12*11 6.18a U n s c r e w t h e m o u n t i n g b o l t s . . . U n s c r e w the bolts and w i t h d r a w the cluster f r o m inside the l o a d s p a c e (see illustrations). 6.18b . . . t h e n w i t h d r a w t h e rear light c l u s t e r f r o m inside t h e l o a d s p a c e Rear number plate light 21 The procedure is described as part of the bulb renewal procedure in Section 4. All m o d e l s 19 Refitting is a reversal of removal, however, on 5-door models check that the cluster lens is a snug fit on the outer b o d y panel. If necessary, turn the 4 adjustment bolts on the mounting plate to position the lens correctly (see illustration). 7 Instrument panel removal and refitting Right-hand drive ^ g$ models Removal 6.19 A d j u s t i n g t h e rear light c l u s t e r o n its m o u n t i n g plate 3 U n d o the s c r e w s and remove the upper shroud from the steering column. 4 U n d o the screws and remove the cover from the fuses/relays located on the driver's side of the instrument panel (see illustration). 5 Working through the fuse/relay cover hole, undo the screw securing the outer end of the instrument panel surround to the facia (see illustration). 6 Undo the 3 upper and 2 lower screws and withdraw the surround from the facia. Disconnect the wiring from the headlight adjustment and panel lighting rheostats, and place the surround to one side (see illustrations). 7 U n d o the four screws and w i t h d r a w the instrument panel f r o m the facia, then 20 The procedure is described as part of the bulb renewal procedure in Section 4. 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). 2 U n d o the s c r e w s and r e m o v e the lower shroud from the steering column. 7.4 R e m o v i n g t h e c o v e r f r o m t h e fuses/relays 7.5 R e m o v i n g t h e i n s t r u m e n t panel s u r r o u n d outer s c r e w 7.6a U n s c r e w t h e t h r e e upper . . . 7.6b . . . a n d t w o l o w e r s c r e w s . . . 7.6c . . . t h e n d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e panel lighting r h e o s t a t . . . 7.6d . . . a n d h e a d l i g h t a d j u s t m e n t s w i t c h High-level stop light bulbs 12• 12 Body electrical systems 7.7a U n d o t h e u p p e r s c r e w s . . . 7.7b . . . a n d l o w e r s c r e w s . . . 7.7c . . . w i t h d r a w t h e i n s t r u m e n t panel f r o m the facia . . . 7.7d . . . t h e n lift t h e clip . . . 7.7e . . . a n d d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g disconnect the wiring plugs from the rear of the panel (see illustrations). 8 The individual gauges and warning lights are illuminated by bulbs. These are a bayonet fit in the rear of the instrument panel and can be removed individually by rotating t h e m through a quarter turn. Refitting 9 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Left-hand drive models Removal 10 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). 11 Undo the s c r e w s and remove the cover from the fuses/relays located on the driver's side of the instrument panel. 12 W o r k i n g t h r o u g h the fuse/relay cover hole, undo the screw securing the outer end of the instrument panel to the facia. 13 Undo the remaining screws securing the instrument panel s u r r o u n d t o the facia. W i t h d r a w the s u r r o u n d and d i s c o n n e c t the wiring f r o m the headlight a d j u s t m e n t and panel lighting rheostats. 14 Undo the four screws and withdraw the instrument panel from the facia, then disconnect the wiring plugs from the rear of the panel. 15 The individual gauges and warning lights are illuminated by bulbs. These are a bayonet fit in the rear of the instrument panel and can be removed individually by rotating t h e m through a quarter turn. Refitting 16 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 8.3 R e m o v i n g t h e headlight b e a m a d j u s t e r f r o m t h e headlight unit 8 Headlight beam alignment general information Accurate adjustment of the headlight beam is only possible using optical beam-setting equipment, and this work should therefore be carried out by a FIAT dealer or suitably-equipped workshop. Incorrectly adjusted headlamps can dazzle other drivers and cause accidents. All m o d e l s are e q u i p p e d w i t h a headlight aim adjustment switch, located on the facia, which allows the aim of the headlights to be adjusted to compensate for the varying loads carried in the vehicle. The switch should be p o s i t i o n e d a c c o r d i n g to the load being carried in t h e vehicle. Position 0 is for the driver only or driver and one front passenger. Position 1 is for all seats o c c u p i e d (5 persons). Position 2 is for all seats occupied plus 9.1a The h o r n s v i e w e d w i t h t h e f r o n t bumper removed s o m e luggage in the rear c o m p a r t m e n t . Position 3 is for all seats o c c u p i e d plus the maximum luggage in the rear compartment. If the headlight beam adjuster is faulty, it may be renewed by twisting it anticlockwise f r o m the rear of the headlight unit (see illustration). 9 Hornremoval and refitting 8^ Sfc Removal 1 The horn is m o u n t e d beneath the righthand end of the front bumper. To gain access to the horn, either r e m o v e the r i g h t - h a n d headlight unit (see Section 6) or remove the front b u m p e r (see Chapter 11) (see illustrations). 9.1b The h o r n s v i e w e d w i t h t h e r i g h t - h a n d headlight unit r e m o v e d Body electrical systems 12*13 10.2 Prise t h e s p e a k e r grille f r o m t h e t o p of t h e f a c i a . . . 10.3a U n d o t h e s p e a k e r m o u n t i n g screws... 10.3b . . . t h e n w i t h d r a w t h e s p e a k e r a n d disconnect the wiring 10.4 The rear l o u d s p e a k e r v i e w e d f r o m the luggage compartment 10.6a U n d o t h e s c r e w s a n d r e m o v e t h e loudspeaker from the door . . . 10.6b . . . t h e n d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g 2 Disconnect the wiring from the horns. 3 U n s c r e w the m o u n t i n g bolts and r e m o v e the horns and bracket. Unbolt the horns from the bracket. 6 Undo the screws and withdraw the speaker f r o m the d o o r panel, then d i s c o n n e c t the wiring (see illustrations). 7 If necessary, separate the protective grille by releasing the retaining tabs. s c r e w s ' and lower the housing f r o m the headlining. 2 U n d o the sunroof m o t o r s c r e w s and d i s e n g a g e the gear f r o m the t w o cables. Lower the motor from the roof. 3 With the motor removed, prise off the metal cover using a screwdriver, then d i s c o n n e c t the aerial lead (see illustration). 4 U n s c r e w the m o u n t i n g nut and w i t h d r a w the aerial from the roof (see illustration), 5 Removal of the aerial lead requires removal of the radio/cassette player as d e s c r i b e d in Section 12, then removal of the interior trim as necessary. Refitting Refitting 4 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 10 Loudspeakers removal and refitting 11 Radio aerial removal and refitting Removal 1 Ensure that the switched off. radio/cassette unit is Facia m o u n t e d front speaker 2 Carefully prise out the speaker grille from the top of the facia (see illustration). 3 In the grille aperture, u n d o the speaker mounting screws, withdraw the speaker, and disconnect the wiring (see illustrations). ^ Sfc Removal Refitting 1 Access to the aerial is gained by removing the interior light/roof switch housing. Carefully prise out the end covers, then undo the t w o 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that seal between the aerial housing and the roof panel is in good condition. 11.3 Prise off t h e m e t a l c o v e r a n d d i s c o n n e c t t h e aerial lead . . . 11.4 . . . t h e n u n s c r e w t h e aerial m o u n t i n g nut Rear parcel shelf s p e a k e r s 4 W o r k i n g underneath the relevant parcel shelf s u p p o r t bracket, pull back the c a r p e t / t r i m t h e n u n d o t h e securing s c r e w s and lower the loudspeaker from the support bracket (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Unplug the wiring at the connector. Door-mounted speakers 5 Remove the door inner trim described in Chapter 1 1 . panel as 12*14 Body electrical systems 1860897000 1860897000 12.2a Fiat r a d i o / c a s s e t t e r e m o v a l t o o l s 12.2b Using t h e Fiat t o o l s t o r e m o v e t h e radio/cassette 12 Radio/cassette player removal and refitting 13 Speedometer sender unitremoval and refitting |§> ^ Caution: If the radio/cassette player fitted has an anti-theft facility, make sure you have the security code before disconnecting the battery. Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). 2 T h e r a d i o / c a s s e t t e player is retained by 4 clips (2 on each side). FIAT technicians use two special tools which are inserted between the sides of the unit and the facia surround, and the tools effectively press the upper clips d o w n , and the lower clips up. These t o o l s may be supplied with the vehicle tool kit. An alternative method to using the special tools is t o insert t w o feeler blades on each sides shown (see illustrations), and to press down the upper blade and press up the lower blade. This will release the unit from the surround, one side at a time. 3 Lift the cassette flap, then pull the unit out from the facia (see illustration). 4 Disconnect the wiring plugs and the aerial lead f r o m the rear of the unit (see illustrations). Refitting 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 12.3 R e m o v i n g t h e r a d i o / c a s s e t t e f r o m the facia %<> SK; Removal 1 The speedometer sender unit is m o u n t e d on the top of the transmission, above the final drive position. First remove the battery and battery tray as d e s c r i b e d in Chapter 5A for access to the sender. Move the relay holder box to one side after removing the cover and unscrewing the mounting bolts. Also unbolt and r e m o v e the battery m o u n t i n g bracket. 2 Disconnect the wiring from the sender unit. 3 O n early m o d e l s , the sender may be removed from the pinion by unscrewing the large nut. On later m o d e l s , however, the sender unit is manufactured as a single unit. 4 On manual transmission m o d e l s , use an Allen key to unscrew the lockbolt f r o m the rear of the transmission casing. 5 On automatic transmission models, unscrew the bolt securing the unit to the top of the transmission casing. 6 Carefully, lift the sender unit and pinion f r o m the c a s i n g . Make sure that the pinion remains in the sender unit while it is being removed otherwise it may fall into the transmission. 7 Remove the O-ring seal from the groove in the body of the sender unit. Obtain a new Oring seal. 12.4a D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e w i r i n g p l u g s . . . 12.2c Using feeler b l a d e s t o r e m o v e t h e radio/cassette Refitting 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but fit a new O-ring seal, and make sure that the pinion remains in the body of the sender unit as it is being inserted. The top of the pinion has a square drive w h i c h engages a d o g inside t h e unit, and it may be necessary to turn the unit slightly to ensure the dog enters the drive. On manual transmission models it will be necessary to align the hole in the sender b o d y with the lockbolt hole; apply suitable sealant to the threads of the lockbolt before inserting it. 14 Switches removal and refitting Steering switch column ^ combination Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). Wait approximately 10 minutes before proceeding as a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag (see Section 21). Turn the steering wheel so that t h e roadwheels are pointing in the straight-ahead position. 2 Remove the steering wheel as described in Chapter 10. 3 Remove the airbag c l o c k s p r i n g unit from the c o l u m n w i t h reference to Section 22 of this Chapter. Note: The clockspring 12.4b . . . a n d aerial plug f r o m t h e rear of the radio/cassette Body electrical systems 12»15 14.4a Using a n Allen key, u n d o t h e collar retaining s c r e w f r o m t h e b o t t o m of t h e switch . . . 14.4b . . . t h e n d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i p e r switch wiring . . . incorporates spring tensioned clips which prevent the upper and lower sections of the unit from turning in relation to each other when removed from the column. 4 Using an Allen key, undo the collar retaining screw from the b o t t o m of the s w i t c h , then disconnect the wiring plugs and slide the combination switch assembly from the top of the steering column (see illustrations). It is not possible to separate each stalk unit and switch. 7 U n d o the s c r e w s and remove the upper shroud from the steering column. 8 U n d o the s c r e w s and remove the cover from the fuses/relays located on the driver's side of the instrument panel. 9 Working through the fuse/relay cover hole, undo the screw securing the outer end of the instrument panel surround to the facia. 10 Undo the 3 upper and 2 lower screws and w i t h d r a w the s u r r o u n d f r o m the facia. Disconnect the wiring f r o m the headlight adjustment and panel lighting rheostat. 11 With the surround on the bench, undo the screws and remove the switch. Refitting 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but note that the groove at the top of the switch must be aligned with the raised tab on the steering c o l u m n . As a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag, ensure no one is inside the vehicle w h e n r e c o n n e c t i n g the battery. With the driver's d o o r o p e n , reach inside and turn on the ignition, then check the operation of the airbag warning light. Headlamp switch beam adjustment Removal 6 The headlamp beam adjustment switch is located on the instrument panel s u r r o u n d . First, undo the screws and remove the lower shroud from the steering column. Refitting 12 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Brake stop-light switch 14.4c . . . a n d t h e i n d i c a t o r s w i t c h wiring . . . Refitting 15 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Courtesy switch 16 A separate courtesy light s w i t c h is only f i t t e d to early m o d e l s - the f u n c t i o n is incorporated in the central locking switch on later models. Where fitted, open the door to expose the switch in the door B-pillar. 17 Remove the securing screw, then remove the rubber gaiter (where applicable) and w i t h d r a w the s w i t c h f r o m the d o o r pillar. Disconnect the wiring c o n n e c t o r as it becomes accessible. HAYNES Removal and refitting 13 Refer to Chapter 9. Electric exterior rear mirror switch (where light Removal view fitted) Tape the wiring to the door pillar, or tie a length of string to the wiring, to retrieve It If it falls back into the door pillar. Removal Refitting 14 Prise the electric rear view mirror switch panel f r o m the centre c o n s o l e , and disconnect the wiring. 18 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the rubber gaiter is securely seated over the switch. 12*16 Body electrical systems 14.27 R e m o v i n g t h e i n s t r u m e n t panel illumination rheostat f r o m the surround Electric window switches Removal 19 Use a screwdriver t o carefully prise t h e electric w i n d o w s w i t c h panel f r o m t h e door trim panel. Use a piece of card or cloth t o protect the panel while levering on it. 20 Disconnect t h e wiring a n d r e m o v e t h e switch. Refitting 21 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Instrument illumination rheostat 14.33a Use a s c r e w d r i v e r t o prise t h e hazard warning switch . . . 14.33b . . . f r o m t h e heater c o n t r o l surround p a n e l . . . from t h e fuses/relays located on the driver's side of the instrument panel. 25 W o r k i n g t h r o u g h t h e fuse/relay cover hole, undo t h e screw securing the outer e n d of the instrument panel surround to the facia. 26 Undo the 3 upper and 2 lower screws and w i t h d r a w t h e surround from t h e facia. Disconnect t h e wiring f r o m t h e headlight adjustment and panel lighting rheostat. 27 With the surround on the bench, undo the s c r e w s a n d remove t h e s w i t c h ( s e e illustration). the s w i t c h position, a n d t h e cover at t h e centre of the switches. 30 Undo the screws and withdraw the switch panel from the front of the facia. 31 Disconnect t h e wiring a n d remove t h e switches from the facia. Refitting Removal 28 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 22 T h e instrument illumination rheostat is l o c a t e d o n t h e instrument panel s u r r o u n d . First, undo the screws and remove the lower shroud from the steering column. 23 Undo t h e screws and remove t h e upper shroud from the steering column. 24 Undo t h e screws a n d remove t h e cover Facia switches Removal 29 T h e facia s w i t c h e s are located in t h e centre of the facia, above the heater control k n o b s . Using a small screwdriver, carefully prise out t h e small covers from each end of Refitting 32 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Hazard warning switch Removal 33 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise t h e hazard warning switch from the heater control surround panel (see illustrations). 34 Disconnect t h e wiring a n d remove t h e switch (see illustration). 35 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 15 Cigarette lighter removal and refitting |^ |k Removal 1 With t h e ashtray c l o s e d , undo t h e lower m o u n t i n g screws, then open t h e ashtray lid and unscrew t h e upper m o u n t i n g s c r e w s . W i t h d r a w t h e ashtray f r o m t h e facia a n d disconnect the wiring from the cigar lighter. 2 With the ashtray on the bench, use a small drift to drive out the pivot pin, then separate the ashtray lid from the base (see illustrations). 3 Remove t h e element, then using a small screwdriver, carefully prise t h e inner metal cylinder f r o m t h e green plastic outer s u r r o u n d ( s e e i l l u s t r a t i o n s ) . Press t h e 14.34 . . . t h e n d i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g 15.2b . . . a n d s e p a r a t e t h e a s h t r a y lid f r o m t h e base 15.3a R e m o v e t h e e l e m e n t . . . 15.3b . . . t h e n u s e a s c r e w d r i v e r t o prise Body electrical systems 12*17 15.3c . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e inner m e t a l cylinder terminal end of the metal cylinder to assist its removal. 4 Align the raised tooth with the cut-out in the body and remove the surround together with the bulbholder (see illustration). Refitting 17 Windscreen/tailgate/headlight washer system components removal and refitting Washer 5 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 16 Tailgate wiper motor • removal and refitting 15.4 R e m o v i n g t h e c i g a r e t t e lighter surround and bulbholder fluid reservoir Removal I Removal 1 Make sure that the ignition is switched off. 2 Remove the tailgate w i p e r arm as described in Section 19. 3 With the tailgate o p e n , u n d o the s c r e w s and prise out the retaining studs, then remove the inner trim panel. On 3-door models, use a w i d e - b l a d e d screwdriver t o prise free t h e clips. 4 Disconnect the wiring f r o m the tailgate wiper motor. Also disconnect the washer tube f r o m the jet adapter located on the s p i n d l e housing (see illustrations). 5 Using an Allen key, unscrew the mounting bolts, then w i t h d r a w the w i p e r m o t o r while guiding the jet adapter t h r o u g h the rubber grommet (see illustrations). Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Refit the wiper arm with reference to Section 19. 16.4b . . . a n d t h e w a s h e r t u b e f r o m t h e tailgate washer jet adapter 1 The washer fluid reservoir is located on the r i g h t - h a n d side (RHD models) or left-hand side (LHD models) of the engine c o m p a r t m e n t , next to the coolant reservoir. First syphon out all of the fluid using a pipette. 2 Unscrew the mounting bolts and move the coolant reservoir to one side, away from the coolant reservoir. 3 Disconnect the wiring f r o m the washer pump. 4 Disconnect the washer t u b i n g f r o m the p u m p , noting where each t u b e is fitted for correct refitting. Also release the tubing from the support clip. 5 U n s c r e w the m o u n t i n g bolts and remove the reservoir from the engine compartment. If necessary, remove the inlet neck from the top of the reservoir. Refitting 6 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Washer pump Removal 7 Unscrew the mounting bolts and move the coolant reservoir to one side, away from the coolant reservoir. 16.5a U n s c r e w t h e m o u n t i n g b o l t s . 16.4a D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e tailgate wiper m o t o r . . . 8 Disconnect the wiring f r o m the washer pump. 9 D i s c o n n e c t the washer t u b i n g f r o m the p u m p , noting where each t u b e is fitted for correct refitting. 10 Pull the p u m p u p w a r d s from the rubber grommet, and withdraw from the reservoir. If necessary, extract the rubber grommet. Refitting 11 Refitting is a reversal of removal. Windscreen washer nozzle Removal 12 Open the bonnet, then prise out the fasteners and release the padding in the area beneath the washer nozzles. 13 Release the securing tabs using a suitable screwdriver, then push the nozzle f r o m the bonnet. D i s c o n n e c t the fluid hose, and withdraw the nozzle. Refitting 14 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but if necessary adjust the nozzle so that the jets are aimed at a point approximately 250 m m from the upper edge of the windscreen. To do this, insert a thin screwdriver in the adjustment holes on the sides of the nozzles. Tailgate washer nozzle Removal 15 The tailgate washer nozzle is located on the tailgate wiper spindle housing. To remove it, first remove the wiper motor as described in Section 16. 16.5b . . . a n d w i t h d r a w t h e w i p e r m o t o r f r o m the tailgate 12*18 Body electrical systems 17.16d R e m o v i n g t h e w a s h e r t u b e f r o m the nozzle/adapter 18.3a Pull u p t h e w e a t h e r s t r i p s . . . 16 Extract the circlip and washer, then pull the nozzle/adapter f r o m t h e wiper s p i n d l e housing. If necessary, remove the tube, (see illustrations). 20 Unscrew the nut and withdraw the nozzle from the front bumper. Refitting 17 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but o n completion adjust the washer jet using a small screwdriver t h r o u g h the hole in t h e nozzle/adapter. The jet should be d i r e c t e d t o w a r d s the upper area of the tailgate wiper wiped area. Headlight washer nozzle Removal 18 The headlight washer nozzles are located in t h e front bumper. First remove t h e front bumper as described in Chapter 1 1 . 19 Disconnect the tube and adapter from the bottom of the headlight nozzle. 18.3c . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e c o w l panel Refitting 21 Refitting is a reversal of removal. 18 Windscreen wiper motor removal and refitting Removal 1 Make sure that the windscreen wiper motor is in its 'parked' position by briefly switching it on a n d off. M a k e sure that the ignition is switched off. 18.3b . then undo the screws . w e a t h e r s t r i p s and u n d o the s c r e w s , then unclip a n d r e m o v e the c o w l panel f r o m in front of the windscreen. Note that the t w o rear screws are accessed by prising out the t w o covers (see illustrations). 4 Remove the p r o t e c t i v e cover f r o m t h e windscreen wiper motor. 5 Disconnect the wiring plug from the motor (see illustration). 6 U n s c r e w a n d r e m o v e the three m o u n t i n g bolts, and withdraw the wiper motor assembly from the bulkhead (see illustrations). 7 Unscrew the crank retaining nut, and the three mounting bolts, then separate the wiper motor from the linkage. Refitting 2 Refer to Section 19 and remove both wiper arms. 3 With the bonnet o p e n , pull up t h e 8 Refitting is a reversal of removal, but ensure that the motor drive is in the 'parked' position before reconnecting the crank arm. 18.5 D i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g f r o m t h e w i p e r motor 18.6a W i p e r m o u n t i n g b o l t l o c a t e d by t h e motor Body electrical systems 12*19 ft 18.6b W i p e r m o u n t i n g bolt l o c a t e d o n t h e linkage frame 19 Wiper arm removal and refitting ^ || 18.6c R e m o v i n g t h e w i p e r m o t o r a s s e m b l y f r o m the bulkhead 18.6d W i p e r m o t o r a n d l i n k a g e r e m o v e d from the bulkhead 4 Lift the blade off the glass, and ease the wiper arm off its spindle, using a rocking action (see i l l u s t r a t i o n s ) . If both windscreen wiper arms are being removed, note both locations, as different arms are fitted to each side. anti-theft alarm system fitted by FIAT as standard equipment. 1 All m o d e l s are fitted w i t h a FIAT CODE engine immobiliser system as s t a n d a r d equipment. The immobiliser is automatically activated w h e n the ignition key is turned to PARK or STOP, and will also be activated when the key is removed completely from the switch. The ignition key has an integral device w h i c h t r a n s m i t s a c o d e d signal to the FIAT CODE unit on the ignition switch, and the unit will only allow the engine to be s t a r t e d if it recognises the signal. Removal Refitting 1 Operate the wiper motor, then switch it off so that the wiper arm returns to its ' p a r k e d ' position. 2 Stick masking tape on the glass, to use as an alignment aid for the rest position of the wiper blade. Note, however, that there is a mark on the tailgate window glass for locating the blade in its 'rest' position (see illustrations). 3 Prise out the wiper arm spindle nut cover, then unscrew and remove the spindle nut. Recover the washer (see illustrations). 5 Refitting is a that the wiper clean and dry t a p e before securely. reversal of removal, but ensure arm and spindle splines are and align the blade w i t h the tightening the spindle nut 20 Anti-theft alarm/engine immobiliser system general information N o t e : This information is applicable only to the 2 Each new car is provided with one master key (burgundy) and two duplicate keys (blue) for normal use. The duplicate keys incorporate a battery on models with remote central locking and an alarm s y s t e m . The master key should be kept in a safe place, as 19.2a The 'rest' p o s i t i o n m a r k o n t h e t a i l g a t e w i n d o w glass 19.2b S t i c k m a s k i n g t a p e o n t h e w i n d s c r e e n t o i n d i c a t e t h e 'rest' p o s i t i o n of t h e w i p e r blade 19.3a Prise o u t t h e w i p e r a r m s p i n d l e n u t cover... 19.3b . . . r e m o v e t h e nut a n d w a s h e r . . . 19.4a . . . a n d r e m o v e t h e t a i l g a t e w i p e r arm f r o m the spindle 19.4b R e m o v i n g t h e w i n d s c r e e n w i p e r a r m f r o m its spindle 12*20 Body electrical systems electrically to the system. The pretensioners are activated by an internal deceleration mechanism. 5 Every time the ignition is switched on, the airbag control unit performs a self-test. The self-test takes approximately 4 seconds and during this time the airbag warning light in the instrument panel is illuminated. After the selftest has been c o m p l e t e d the warning light should go out. If the warning light fails to come on, check the bulb first before assuming the system is faulty. If it remains illuminated after 4 s e c o n d s or c o m e s on at any t i m e when the vehicle is being driven, there is a fault in the airbag system. The vehicle should be taken to a FIAT dealer for examination at the earliest possible opportunity. it is required for making copies in the event of the loss of the duplicate keys. 3 M o s t m o d e l s are fitted with an electronic alarm system which enables remote control of the central locking s y s t e m , t o g e t h e r with monitoring of door/tailgate/bonnet opening, m o v e m e n t inside the car, and any hard k n o c k s to the car b o d y . The system is activated w h e n the ignition key is r e m o v e d f r o m the STOP or PARK positions on the ignition s w i t c h . An LED w a r n i n g light in the middle of the facia flashes for the c o m p l e t e period when the system is activated. 4 The alarm s y s t e m p e r f o r m s a self-test whenever it is switched on. Should a fault be detected, a second short beep will be heard after the main beep. If this occurs, check that the doors/tailgate/bonnet are closed correctly. 5 When the system is s w i t c h e d on, a single beep will be heard and the direction indicators will light up for approximately three seconds. When the system is switched off, t w o beeps will be heard and the direction indicators will flash twice. 6 Should the alarm system become faulty, the vehicle should be taken to a FIAT dealer for examination. 7 If a new key is obtained, it will be necessary to transfer the transponder from the old key to the new one. To d o this, prise open the old key fob using a small screwdriver. Note: Carry this out over a table, otherwise the transponder may be lost. 8 Note its location, then use a screwdriver to carefully prise the transponder from the old key (see illustration). 9 Carefully locate the transponder in the new key, then refit the fob halves, pressing the t w o halves together until they are engaged. 21 Airbag system - precautions and general information A Warning: Note that the airbag must not be subjected to temperatures in excess of 100° C. When the airbag is removed, ensure that it is stored the correct way up to prevent possible inflation. Do not allow any solvents or cleaning agents to contact the airbag assembly. It must be cleaned using only a damp cloth. The airbag and control unit are both sensitive to impact. If either is dropped from a height of 50 cm or more or are damaged they should be renewed. Before working on the airbag components, disconnect the battery and wait approximately 10 minutes. Also remove the airbag fuse from the fusebox. 1 A driver's airbag is fitted as standard on all models, and a passenger airbag is available as an option. Side airbags, fitted in the front seat backrests, are also available on certain models to protect the front seat occupants in 22 Airbag system components removal and refitting 20.8 R e m o v i n g t h e t r a n s p o n d e r f r o m t h e i g n i t i o n key f o b the event of a side impact of medium to high level. 2 Where passenger and/or side airbags are fitted, the front passenger seat is fitted with a sensor to detect the presence of a person. If the sensor d o e s not d e t e c t a person within a p p r o x i m a t e l y 30 s e c o n d s , the passenger airbag(s) are deactivated. 3 The airbag system c o n s i s t s of the airbag units c o m p l e t e w i t h gas generators, the control unit with integral deceleration sensor, and a warning light on the instrument panel. 4 The airbag system is triggered in the event of a heavy frontal i m p a c t above a predetermined force, depending on the point of i m p a c t . The airbag is inflated within milliseconds and f o r m s a safety cushion b e t w e e n the driver and steering wheel a n d , where f i t t e d , b e t w e e n the passenger and facia. This prevents c o n t a c t b e t w e e n the u p p e r b o d y and wheel/facia and therefore greatly reduces the risk of injury. The airbag then deflates almost immediately. Note that the front seat belt reels incorporate pretensioners which operate entirely separate to the airbag system and are not connected 22.2 U n s c r e w a n d r e m o v e t h e t w o a i r b a g retaining s c r e w s f r o m t h e rear of t h e steering wheel Note: Refer to the warnings given in Section 21 before carrying out the following operations. Driver's airbag Removal 1 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). Also remove the airbag fuse f r o m the f u s e b o x . Wait approximately 10 minutes before proceeding, then insert the ignition key and turn it to release the steering lock. 2 U n s c r e w and remove the t w o airbag retaining screws from the rear of the steering wheel, rotating the wheel as necessary to gain access to the screws (see illustration). 3 Return the steering wheel to the straightahead position then carefully lift the airbag assembly away f r o m the steering w h e e l . Disconnect the yellow wiring from the rear of the airbag (see i l l u s t r a t i o n s ) . Note that the airbag must not be knocked or dropped and should be stored the correct way up with its padded surface uppermost. Refitting 4 Reconnect the wiring to the rear of the airbag and to the horn terminal. 5 Seat the airbag unit centrally in the steering 22.3a Carefully lift t h e a i r b a g a s s e m b l y away f r o m the steering wheel Body electrical systems Front seat side airbag Removal 22.3b D i s c o n n e c t t h e y e l l o w w i r i n g f r o m t h e rear of t h e a i r b a g wheel, making sure the wires do not become t r a p p e d . Fit the retaining screws and tighten them to the specified torque setting. 6 Refit the airbag fuse, then r e c o n n e c t the battery, but as a precaution against accidental activation of the a i r b a g , ensure no one is inside the vehicle. With the driver's door open, reach inside and turn on the ignition, then c h e c k the operation of the airbag warning light. Passenger airbag Removal 7 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). Also remove the airbag fuse f r o m the f u s e b o x . Wait approximately 10 minutes before proceeding. 8 Open the glovebox lid, then undo the t w o knobs and remove the upper trim from inside the g l o v e b o x . U n s c r e w the m o u n t i n g bolts and withdraw the glovebox from the facia. 9 W o r k i n g t h r o u g h the glovebox aperture, unscrew and remove the four bolts securing the airbag to the body. 10 D i s c o n n e c t t h e w i r i n g a n d w i t h d r a w t h e airbag from inside the car. Note that the airbag must not be knocked or d r o p p e d and should be stored the correct way up with its padded surface uppermost. 11 Note that the c o m p l e t e facia must be r e m o v e d in order to remove the passenger airbag module cover. Refer to Chapter 11 and remove the facia, then undo the screws and drill out the rivets. Refitting 12 If r e m o v e d , refit the m o d u l e cover and secure with the screws and new rivets. 13 Reconnect the wiring and make sure that the wire is correctly located in the s u p p o r t grommet. 14 Lift the airbag into position and align the holes in the mounting bracket with those in the body. Insert the bolts and tighten to the specified torque. 15 Refit the glovebox and trim. 16 Fiefit the airbag fuse, then reconnect the battery, but as a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag, ensure no one is inside the vehicle. With the driver's door open, reach inside and turn on the ignition, then check the operation of the airbag warning light. 17 Remove the front seat as d e s c r i b e d in Chapter 1 1 . 18 Using a screwdriver, prise the cap from the seat tilt adjustment knob, then pull off the knob. 19 U n d o the s c r e w s and remove the outer plastic side cover from the seat. 20 On the inside of the seat, undo the screw securing the inner plastic side cover. 21 Using a screwdriver, carefully prise out the rear of the inner plastic cover f r o m the side of the seat taking care not to damage the cover. As it is being r e m o v e d , the spring washer will be released from the peg on the seat. With the cover removed, press out the spring washer and outer cap. 22 Release and u n h o o k the b o t t o m of the rear cover from the seat rail, disconnect the tensioning rods, and partly pull the upholstery u p w a r d s for a c c e s s to the side airbag mounting nuts. 23 Unscrew the mounting nuts, and carefully withdraw the airbag module from the side of the seat. Carefully disconnect the wiring from the airbag. Note that the airbag must not be knocked or dropped and should be stored with its padded surface uppermost. Refitting 24 R e c o n n e c t the wiring and locate the airbag in the side of the seat. Tighten the mounting nuts to the specified torque. 25 Refit the upholstery and side covers to the seat using a reversal of the removal procedure. 26 Refit the front seat to the car w i t h reference to Chapter 1 1 . When reconnecting the battery, ensure no one is inside the vehicle as a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag. With the driver's d o o r o p e n , reach inside and turn on the ignition, then c h e c k the operation of the airbag w a r n i n g light. Airbag control unit Note: The airbag control unit must always be renewed after a crash which activates an airbag. 22.28 The a i r b a g c o n t r o l unit is l o c a t e d u n d e r t h e c e n t r e of t h e f a c i a 12*21 Removal 27 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). Also remove the airbag fuse from the fusebox. Wait approximately 10 minutes before proceeding. 28 The airbag control unit is located under the centre of the facia, in front of the centre console (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . Undo the screws and release the fasteners in order to remove the trim panel from the inside of the driver's footwell. Push the centre locking pins of the fasteners in order to release them. 29 Undo the mounting screws then d i s c o n n e c t the wiring and w i t h d r a w the control unit. Refitting 30 Locate the control unit beneath the facia, making sure that the arrow on top of the unit is pointing forwards, then reconnect the wiring and insert the mounting screws. Tighten the screws securely. 31 Make sure that the fasteners are correctly located in the trim panel, with the centre locking pins in their raised position. Refit the trim panel and secure the fasteners by pressing in the centre locking pins until flush. Insert and tighten the screws. 32 Refit the airbag fuse, then reconnect the battery, but as a precaution against accidental activation of the airbag, ensure no one is inside the vehicle. With the driver's door open, reach inside and turn on the ignition, then check the operation of the airbag warning light. Airbag clock spring Removal 33 Disconnect the battery negative (earth) lead (see Disconnecting the battery). Also remove the airbag fuse from the fusebox. Wait approximately 10 minutes before proceeding. 34 Remove the steering wheel as described in Chapter 10. This p r o c e d u r e includes removal of the driver's airbag d e s c r i b e d in paragraphs 1 to 3 of this S e c t i o n . N o t e : Before removing the steering wheel, make sure it is in its central position with the front wheels pointing straight- ahead. 35 U n d o the screws and remove the lower shroud from the steering column, then undo the screws and remove the upper shroud (see illustrations). 22.35a U n d o t h e s c r e w s . . . 12*22 Body electrical systems 36 Next to the ignition switch, disconnect the clock spring wiring, and also disconnect the wiring from the airbag control unit (see illustration). 37 Undo the screws (noting their locations) and remove the clock spring f r o m the combination switch (see i l l u s t r a t i o n ) . N o t e : The clockspring incorporates spring tensioned clips which prevent the upper and lower sections of the unit from turning in relation to each other when removed from the column. Refitting 38 Make sure the front wheels are pointing in the straight-ahead d i r e c t i o n . Refit the c l o c k s p r i n g to the c o m b i n a t i o n s w i t c h and tighten the screws. Note that there are four holes for the retaining screws, however, only three screws are fitted, to prevent distortion of the c l o c k s p r i n g h o u s i n g . N o t e : If a new clockspring is being fitted, remove the temporary locking key before locating it on the combination switch. 22.36 D i s c o n n e c t i n g t h e c l o c k s p r i n g wiring 22.37 R e m o v i n g t h e c l o c k s p r i n g retaining screws 39 R e c o n n e c t the w i r i n g , and refit the steering column shrouds. 40 Refit the steering wheel and airbag with reference to Chapter 10 and paragraphs 4 to 6 of this Section. 41 Refit the airbag fuse, then reconnect the battery, but as a precaution against accidental activation of the a i r b a g , ensure no one is inside the vehicle. With the driver's door open, reach inside and turn on the ignition, then c h e c k the operation of the airbag w a r n i n g light. Wiring diagrams 12*23 Fiat Brava/Bravo wiring diagrams 1995 to 1999 Key to symbols j^g. (o Item number I F11 I i I i F1 | I F10 I I F13 T l T I I F15 I I F5 I I F3 F2 I I I F8 I ' F7 1 I F6 I I F12 I I Bulb F9 F4 II Fuse holder Switch Fuse allocation —WMA— 1 Multiple contact switch (ganged) 2 Fuse/ fusible link 3 Solenoid actuator 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Resistor Variable resistor Internal connection in a component 11 12 13 14 15 Block conection, detachable 15A Exterior lights - Reversing, stop, direction indicators electric windows, air bag, ABS 10A Front RH side light, rear LH light, RH number plate light, radio lighting, instrument panel lighting, switch panel lighting 10A Front LH side light, heater/air conditioner controls lighting, rear RH light, LH number plate light 10A LH dipped beam 10A RH dipped beam, headlamp adjusters 10A RH main beam 10A LH main beam, main beam warning light 10A Rear fog lamps 10A Hazard warning lights 15A Courtesy light, luggage compartment light, clock, radio, glove compartment light 20A Heated rear window and warning light, heated mirrors 20A Horns 20A Front and rear screen wash/wipe, headlight washer 20A Interior ventilation fan, radiator fan, cigar lighter Wire connection, fixed Wire colour (green wire with yellow tracer) >g/y < t 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Denotes alternative wiring variation ; Dmgmm 5, Arrow RH indicator signal 2 3 Interconnecting line (thin line) — Index to diagrams Connections to other circuits Earth point with location code Earth locations G102 Pump/motor -0 -6 Starting and charging, engine cooling fan, horn, heated rear window, interior ventilation Front and rear screen wash/wipe, headlight wash, Hazard warning lights Direction indicators, brake lights, reversing lights Exterior lights, anti-lock braking system Fog lights - front and rear, electric windows (front) Cigarette lighter, headlight alignment, high level radio Interior lighting, sun roof, heated and adjustable rear view mirrors Weber IAW ignition and injection system (1.6 SX,ELX,HLX) Bosch Mono Motronic ignition and injection system (1.4 S, SX, Team,80) Dashed outline denotes part of a larger item, containing in this case an electronic or solid state device Gauge/meter H31692 E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8 E9 Battery earth on bodyshell Left front earth Left dashboard earth Right front earth Left rear earth Right rear earth Right dashboard earth Earth for electronic injection Earth for electronic ignition 12»24 Wiring diagrams Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green B B l a c k V Violet O Orange Lb Light blue # W H31693 Key to items 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system D 80A fuse for Junction unit Starter motor Alternator Ignition switch Engine cooling fan fuse 40/50A Engine cooling fan Thermostat switch on radiator 9 Steering column switch unit 10 Junction unit R1 Ignition relay R2 Horn relay R3 Heated rear window relay 11 Fan speed switch 12 Fan speed resistors 13 Climate control fan 14 Heater unit light bulbs 15 Horns Diagram 2 16 Heated rear window 17 Switch control panel Heated rear window switch with warning light 18 Contact board for rear connections Wiring diagrams 12*25 Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow Br Brown P Pink Bl Blue Gr Grey G Green B Black V Violet O Lb Key to items Orange Light blue Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system C 60A fuse for optional extras D 80A fuse for junction unit 5 Ignition switch 9 Steering column switch unit A windscreen wiper speed control B front/rear screen, headlamp washer switch Diagram 3 1 2 H31694' 10 18 20 21 22 23 C rear screen wiper switch 24 Headlight intermittent wash relay D direction indicators/ 25 Headlight washer pump hazard lights relay 26 Hazard warning lights switch Junction unit R1 Ignition relay Contact board for rear connections Front/rear washer pump Windscreen wiper motor Rear screen wiper motor Fuse for headlight washer (20A) Front and rear screen wash/wipe Hazard warning lights Headlight wash • R «R »n i 5 " Screen wash signal *• J—l rv/ni - L J - Gr/Bl 4 D ^ LH Direction indicators °" RH Direction indicators * Diagram Arrow 4 B m L b / B ' " E4 n J L b . , . . «_ . l ." i i i - n - » - r n Bl/W" /R" BBl /l R O ro n co 1 1 E3 E2 I—, 49A 49 D R 31 ° Sram !!> L i g h 1 Hptl Diagram Arrow r> C , s S, Arrow o n S i g n a | D 12*26 Wiring diagrams Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V O Lb White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green Black Violet Direction Orange Light blue H31695 Key to items -1 2 Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system 5 Ignition switch 9 Steering column switch unit D direction indicators/ hazard lights relay E Direction indicator switch 10 Junction unit 26 Hazard warning lights switch 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 Front LH light cluster Front RH light cluster Front LH side indicator Front RH side indicator Rear LH light cluster Rear RH light cluster Brake lights switch Additional brake light Reversing light switch indicators Brake lights Reversing lights Diagram 4 Wiring diagrams 12»27 Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow Br Brown P Pink Bl Blue Gr Grey G Green B V Violet O Orange Lb Light blue B l a c k H31696 Key to items 1 2 Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system C 60A fuse for optional extras 5 Ignition switch 9 Steering column switch unit F Sidelights switch G Headlight dip/main switch H Headlight flash 10 Junction unit 27 Front LH light cluster 28 Front RH light cluster 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 Rear LH light cluster Rear RH light cluster Number plate lights Dipped beam relay Fuse (60A) ABS fuse (5A) ABS cintrol unit Diagnostic connection Front LH ABS sensor Front RH ABS sensor Rear LH ABS sensor Rear RH ABS sensor Diagram 5 12 12*28 Wiring diagrams Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow Br Brown P Pink Bl Blue Gr Grey G Green B Black V Violet O Orange Lb Light blue H3)697 Key to items 1 2 Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system C 60A fuse for optional extras 5 Ignition switch 10 Junction unit 17 Switch control panel A rear fog lights warning light B rear fog lamps switch C panel lighting Fog lights - Front and rear Electric windows - front (trim level S - SX) 31 32 36 37 38 39 40 41 D fog lights switch E fog lights warning light Rear LH light cluster Rear RH tight cluster Front fog lights fuse 20A Fog lights relay Front LH fog light Front RH fog light Power relay Front windows fuse 30A Diagram 6 42 RH electric window control unit, on LH door 43 LH electric window control unit 44 LH window motor 45 RH window motor 46 RH electric window control unit Wiring diagrams 12*29 Wire colours W R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green Black Violet O Orange Lb Light blue Key to items 1 2 5 9 wis Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system D 80A fuse for junction unit Ignition switch Steering column switch unit F Sidelights switch G Headlight dip/main switch H Headlight flash 10 Junction unit R1 Ignition relay 34 Dip beam relay 50 Cigarette lighter 51 High level radio 52 Front LH speaker (Tweeter) 53 Front RH speaker (Tweeter) 54 LH door speaker 55 RH door speaker 56 Rear LH speaker 57 58 59 60 Diagram 7 Rear RH speaker LH headlight correction unit RH headlight correction unit Headlight alignment control unit 12*30 Wiring diagrams Wire colours Key to items w R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V 1 2 White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green Black Violet 0 Orange Lb Light blue H31699 Interior lights Diagram 8 Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system C 60A fuse for optional extras D 80A fuse for junction unit 5 Ignition switch 9 Steering column switch unit F Sidelights switch 10 Junction unit R1 Ignition relay Wiring variation for S-SX trim levels "* • Not on Bravo model * •Ft— T E1 18 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 YY\ ill > Y/R • Contact board for rear connections Adjustable mirrors fuse 7.5A Adjustable mirrors control panel LH rear view mirror RH rear view mirror Sun roof control unit Power relay Fuse for sun roof 20A Sun roof motor Sun roof end of travel switch Diagram 11, Arrow • fc.Oiaaram 11, An Lighting feed . . ' P — u 75 "™ 70 Sun roof control button 71 Instrument panel light dimmer 72 Glove compartment light 73 •Courtesy-tights 74 Luggage compartment light 75 Front courtesy light switch 76 Rear courtesy light switch 75 7fl_ ^.IB- Wiring diagrams 12*31 Wire colours W White R Red Y Yellow Br Brown P Pink Bl Blue Gr Grey G Green B Black V Violet Diagram 9 Key to items O Orange Lb Light blue 1 2 5 10 77 78 79 H31700 Battery Power fuse box A 30A fuse for injection system B 40A fuse for ignition system Ignition switch Junction unit Injection system fuse 25A Injection/ignition control unit fuse 5A Water temp, sensor 80 Air temp, sensor 81 RPM and TDC sensor 82 Potentiometer on butterfly valve 83 Timing sensor 84 Heated lambda sensor 85 Injector 1 86 Injector 2 87 Injector 3 88 Injector 4 89 Idle adjustment actuator 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 Absolute pressure sensor Petrol vapour cut out valve Diagnostic sensor Multiple relay.. Injection/ignition control unit Spark plugs Ignition coils Fuel pump Inertia switch Vehicle speed sensor Weber IAW MPI ignition and fuel injection system - 1600 16V models | ,1, ,1. JTl^.l./p-lrri?^!"^ ' l ^ l y l ^ I? r, P, l , K 3 4 1 2 I? I , ht 1 5 ;| | j I H 7 |52|35|13| I H 3 7 M I I I n l JI |24|34|14|17|31|12| I I .. 1471291491301 I Air conditioning Alarm Air conditioning I I I . | | | I I N |iS3|23| * 6 | j " l | « J _..-rjt-_--»~ . „ W | | | \&\4 | ° *-o/w — » | | |54|36| 2 |39| T |3a| I I |28| I I I I I | g * | 3 |40|2*0|- I I I I I l ^ D / a g r a m 11, Arrow B Instrument panel ^Diagram 11, Arrow A Instrument panel . ^^Diagram 11, Arrow I 11, Arrow C C Instrument panel • Diagram Instrument panel 12 12»32 Wiring diagrams Wire colours w R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green Black Violet O Orange Lb Light blue Key to items 1 2 5 10 79 81 82 84 Battery Power fuse box A 30A fuse for injection system B 40A fuse for ignition system Ignition switch Junction unit Water temp, sensor RPM and TDC sensor Potentiometer on butterfly valve Heated lambda sensor 89 Idle adjustment actuator 91 Petrol vapour cut out valve 92 Diagnostic sensor 94 Injection/ignition control unit 95 Spark plugs 96 Ignition coils 97 Fuel pump 98 Inertia switch 99 Vehicle speed sensor 100 Fuel pump relay Diagram 10 101 Injection relay 102 Injection system fuse 10A 103 Fuel pump/ lambda sensor fuse 10A 104 Injector and air temp sensor 105 Detonation sensor Bosch Mono Motronic ignition and fuel injection system - 1370cc models Wiring diagrams 12*33 Wire colours Key to items w R Y Br P Bl Gr G B V 1 2 O Orange Lb Light blue White Red Yellow Brown Pink Blue Grey Green Black Violet H31702 115 116 a b c d e f g h i Battery Power fuse box B 40A fuse for ignition system D 80A fuse for junction unit 5 Ignition switch 10 Junction unit 110 Brake fluid level switch 111 Brake pad wear sensor 112 Oil pressure switch 113 Water temperature sensor 114 Handbrake switch Fuel level sensor Instrument panel Battery charging warning lamp Injection system failure lamp Front brake pad wear lamp Low oil pressure warning ABS warning lamp Water temperature gauge Tachometer Panel lighting Panel lighting Diagram 11 j Handbrake/low brake fluid lamp k Main beam warning I Side lights warning m Fuel gauge n Fuel reserve,control module o LH indicator p RH indicator q Fuel reserve warning r Speedometer control module s Speedometer t Trip meter with reset Instrument panel E1 r|30|l5|50|- — 5 I 5 O / W ™, _ « 1 2 ^ , M Lb/R Lb/R Diagram 9, Arrow • m » • * Injection system A \ Speed sensor Diagram 9, Arrow . . . * 4 A. i D Speed sensor Diagram 5 A r^: & C • | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |6 | 7 |8 |9 M a t s and carpets s h o u l d be b r u s h e d or vacuum-cleaned regularly, to keep them free of grit. If they are badly stained, remove them f r o m the vehicle for s c r u b b i n g or s p o n g i n g , and m a k e quite sure they are dry before refitting. Seats and interior trim panels can be kept clean by wiping with a d a m p cloth and specialist cleaner. If they do become stained (which can be more apparent on lightc o l o u r e d upholstery), use a little liquid detergent and a soft nail brush to scour the grime out of the grain of the material. Do not forget to keep the headlining clean in the s a m e way as the upholstery. When using liquid cleaners inside the vehicle, do not overwet the surfaces being c l e a n e d . Excessive d a m p could get into the seams and p a d d e d interior, causing stains, offensive o d o u r s or even rot. If the inside of the vehicle gets wet accidentally, it is w o r t h w h i l e t a k i n g s o m e t r o u b l e to dry it out properly, particularly where carpets are involved. Do not leave oil or electric heaters inside the vehicle for this purpose. 4 Minor body damage repair Repairs of minor bodywork scratches « in If the scratch is very superficial, and does not penetrate to the metal of the b o d y w o r k , repair is very simple. Lightly rub the area of the scratch with a paintwork renovator, or a very fine cutting paste, to remove loose paint from the scratch, and to clear the surrounding bodywork of wax polish. Rinse the area with clean water. Apply touch-up paint to the scratch using a fine paint brush; continue to apply fine layers of paint until the surface of the paint in the s c r a t c h is level with the s u r r o u n d i n g paintwork. Allow the new paint at least t w o weeks to harden, then blend it into the surrounding paintwork by rubbing the scratch area with a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste. Finally, apply wax polish. W h e r e the s c r a t c h has p e n e t r a t e d right t h r o u g h to the metal of the b o d y w o r k , causing the metal to rust, a different repair technique is required. Remove any loose rust f r o m the b o t t o m of the s c r a t c h w i t h a penknife, then apply rust-inhibiting paint t o prevent the f o r m a t i o n of rust in the future. Using a r u b b e r or nylon a p p l i c a t o r , fill the scratch with bodystopper paste. If required, this p a s t e can be m i x e d w i t h cellulose thinners, to provide a very thin paste which is ideal for filling narrow scratches. Before the stopper-paste in the scratch hardens, wrap a piece of smooth cotton rag around the top of a finger. Dip the finger in cellulose thinners, and quickly sweep it across the surface of the stopper-paste in the scratch; this will ensure that the surface of the s t o p p e r - p a s t e is slightly h o l l o w e d . The s c r a t c h c a n n o w be p a i n t e d over as d e s c r i b e d earlier in this Section. Repairs of dents in bodywork When deep denting of the vehicle's bodywork has taken place, the first task is to pull the dent out, until the affected bodywork almost attains its original shape. There is little point in trying to restore the original shape completely, as the metal in the damaged area will have stretched on impact, and cannot be reshaped fully to its original contour. It is better to bring the level of the dent up to a point which is about 3 m m below the level of the surrounding b o d y w o r k . In cases where the dent is very shallow anyway, it is not worth trying to pull it out at all. If the underside of the dent is accessible, it can be hammered out gently f r o m behind, using a mallet with a wooden or plastic head. Whilst doing this, hold a suitable block of w o o d firmly against the outside of the panel, to absorb the impact from the hammer blows and thus prevent a large area of the bodywork from being 'belled-out'. Should the dent be in a section of the b o d y w o r k which has a double skin, or some other factor making it inaccessible f r o m behind, a different technique is called for. Drill several small holes through the metal inside the area - particularly in the deeper section. Then screw long self-tapping screws into the holes, just sufficiently for them to gain a good purchase in the metal. Now the dent can be pulled out by pulling on the protruding heads of the screws with a pair of pliers. The next stage of the repair is the removal of the paint from the damaged area, and from an inch or so of the surrounding ' s o u n d ' bodywork. This is accomplished most easily by using a wire brush or abrasive pad on a power drill, although it can be done just as effectively by hand, using sheets of abrasive paper. To complete the preparation for filling, score the surface of the bare metal with a screwdriver or the tang of a file, or alternatively, drill small holes in the affected area. This will provide a really good 'key' for the filler paste. To complete the repair, see the Section on filling and respraying. Repairs of rust holes gashes in bodywork or Remove all paint from the affected area, and from an inch or so of the s u r r o u n d i n g 'sound' bodywork, using an abrasive pad or a wire brush on a power drill. If these are not available, a few sheets of abrasive paper will d o the j o b m o s t effectively. With t h e paint removed, you will be able to judge the severity of the c o r r o s i o n , and therefore d e c i d e whether to renew the w h o l e panel (if this is possible) or to repair the affected area. New b o d y panels are not as expensive as m o s t people think, and it is often quicker and more satisfactory to fit a new panel than to attempt to repair large areas of corrosion. Remove all fittings from the affected area, except those which will act as a guide to the original shape of the damaged bodywork (eg headlight shells, etc). Then, using tin snips or a hacksaw blade, remove all loose metal and any other metal badly affected by corrosion. H a m m e r the edges of the hole inwards, in order to create a slight depression for the filler paste. Wire-brush the affected area to remove the p o w d e r y rust f r o m the surface of the remaining metal. Paint the affected area with rust-inhibiting paint; if the back of the rusted area is accessible, treat this also. Before filling can t a k e place, it will be necessary to block the hole in some way. This can be achieved by the use of aluminium or plastic mesh, or aluminium tape. Aluminium or plastic mesh, or glass-fibre matting, is probably the best material to use for a large hole. Cut a piece to the approximate size and shape of the hole to be filled, then Bodywork and fittings 11 »3 position it in the hole so that its edges are below the level of the surrounding bodywork. It can be retained in position by several blobs of filler paste around its periphery. Aluminium tape should be used for small or very narrow holes. Pull a piece off the roll, trim it to the approximate size and shape required, then pull off the backing paper (if used) and stick t h e t a p e over the hole; it can be o v e r l a p p e d if t h e t h i c k n e s s of o n e piece is insufficient. Burnish d o w n t h e edges of t h e t a p e w i t h t h e handle of a screwdriver or similar, t o ensure that the t a p e is securely attached to the metal underneath. Bodywork repairs fiiling and respraying Before using this Section, see the Sections on dents, s c r a t c h e s , rust holes a n d gash repairs. Many types of bodyfiller are available, but generally s p e a k i n g , t h o s e proprietary kits which contain a tin of filler paste and a tube of resin hardener are best for this type of repair, which can be used directly from the tube. A wide, flexible plastic or nylon applicator will be found invaluable for imparting a smooth and w e l l - c o n t o u r e d finish t o the surface of t h e filler. Mix up a little filler on a clean piece of card or board - measure t h e hardener carefully (follow the maker's instructions on the pack), otherwise the filler will set t o o rapidly or t o o slowly. Alternatively, a ' n o - m i x ' filler can be used straight from t h e t u b e w i t h o u t mixing, but daylight is required t o cure it. Using the applicator, apply t h e filler paste t o t h e prepared area; draw the applicator across the surface of t h e filler t o achieve the correct contour and to level the surface. As soon as a contour that approximates to the correct one is achieved, s t o p working the paste - if y o u carry o n t o o l o n g , t h e paste will b e c o m e sticky a n d begin t o ' p i c k - u p ' on t h e applicator. Continue to add thin layers of filler paste at 20-minute intervals, until the level of the filler is just p r o u d of t h e surrounding bodywork. Once t h e filler has h a r d e n e d , the excess can be removed using a metal plane or file. From then o n , progressively-finer grades of abrasive paper should be used, starting with a 40-grade production paper, and finishing with a 400-grade wet-and-dry paper. Always wrap the abrasive paper around a flat rubber, cork, or w o o d e n block - otherwise t h e surface of the filler will not be completely flat. During the smoothing of the filler surface, the w e t - a n d dry paper should be periodically rinsed in water. This will ensure that a very s m o o t h finish is imparted to the filler at the final stage. At this stage, the ' d e n t ' s h o u l d be surrsunded by a ring of bare metal, which in turn should be encircled by t h e finely 'feathered' edge of the good paintwork. Rinse the repair area with clean water, until all of the dust produced by t h e rubbing-down operation has gone. Spray the w h o l e area with a light coat of primer - this will show up any imperfections in the surface of t h e filler. Repair these imperfections with fresh filler paste or b o d y s t o p p e r , a n d once more s m o o t h the surface with abrasive paper. If bodystopper is used, it can be mixed with cellulose thinners, to form a really thin paste w h i c h is ideal for filling small holes. Repeat this s p r a y - a n d repair procedure until you are satisfied that the surface of the filler, and the feathered edge of the paintwork, are perfect. Clean t h e repair area with clean water, and allow to dry fully. The repair area is n o w ready for final spraying. Paint spraying must be carried out in a w a r m , dry, windless and d u s t - f r e e a t m o s p h e r e . This c o n d i t i o n can be created artificially if you have access to a large indoor working area, but if you are forced to work in the open, you will have to pick your day very carefully. If you are working indoors, dousing the floor in the work area with water will help to settle the dust which would otherwise be in the atmosphere. If the repair area is confined to one body panel, mask off the surrounding panels; this will help to minimise the effects of a slight mis-match in paint colours. Bodywork fittings (eg c h r o m e strips, door handles etc) will also need to be masked off. Use genuine masking tape, and several thicknesses of newspaper, for the masking operations. Before c o m m e n c i n g t o spray, agitate t h e aerosol can thoroughly, then spray a test area (an o l d t i n , or similar) until t h e t e c h n i q u e is mastered. Cover the repair area with a thick coat of primer; the thickness should be built up using several thin layers of paint, rather than one thick one. Using 400-grade w e t - a n d dry paper, rub d o w n the surface of the primer until it is really smooth. While doing this, the work area should be thoroughly doused with water, and the wet-and-dry paper periodically rinsed in water. Allow to dry before spraying on more paint. Spray on the t o p coat, again building up the thickness by using several thin layers of paint. Start spraying at t h e t o p of the repair area, and then, using a side-to-side motion, work d o w n w a r d s until t h e w h o l e repair area a n d about 2 inches of the s u r r o u n d i n g original p a i n t w o r k is c o v e r e d . Remove all masking material 10 t o 15 minutes after spraying on the final coat of paint. Allow the new paint at least t w o weeks to harden, then, using a paintwork renovator or a very fine cutting paste, blend the edges of the paint into the existing paintwork. Finally, apply wax polish. Plastic components With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (eg bumpers, spoilers, and in s o m e cases major b o d y panels), rectification of more serious damage t o such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete c o m p o n e n t s . Repair of such d a m a g e by the DIY owner is not really feasible, owing t o the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic, using a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together, using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed, and the area r u b b e d d o w n t o a s m o o t h finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (eg polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions, minor cracks etc) can be repaired by the DIY o w n e r using a t w o - p a r t epoxy filler repair material, O n c e mixed in equal p r o p o r t i o n s , this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in t w e n t y t o thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting. If t h e owner is renewing a c o m p l e t e c o m p o n e n t himself, or if he has repaired it w i t h e p o x y filler, he will be left w i t h the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is c o m p a t i b l e with the t y p e of plastic used. At one time, the use of a universal paint was not possible, owing t o the complex range of plastics encountered in b o d y c o m p o n e n t applications. S t a n d a r d paints, generally speaking, will not b o n d t o plastic or rubber satisfactorily, but specialist paints, to match any plastic or rubber finish, can be obtained from dealers. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and coloured t o p coat. Full instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically, the method of use is to first apply the pre-primer to the component concerned, and allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is a p p l i e d , a n d left t o dry for about an hour before finally applying the s p e c i a l - c o l o u r e d t o p coat. The result is a c o r r e c t l y - c o l o u r e d component, where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that s t a n d a r d paint does not normally posses. 5 Major body damage repair