BMW - Isetta Gazette - Owners Manual - 2021 - 2021

1 The Isetta Owners Club of Great Britain Ltd. OFFICERS & COMMITTEE CHAIRMAN Chris Skepper 6B High Street, Little Paxton, St. Neots Cambs. PE19 6HA email:[email protected] TREASURER Bob Crompton 1 North View, Ryhope, Sunderland. SR2 0PE email:[email protected] SECRETARY Joanne Todd 108 Clee Road, Grimsby. DN32 8NX email:[email protected] MEMBERSHIP SECRETARY Ian Parris 1 Winston Close, Nether Heyford, Northampton. NN7 3JX email:[email protected] GAZETTE EDITOR Ian Parris 1 Winston Close, Nether Heyford, Northampton. NN7 3JX email:[email protected] USED SPARES MANAGER Mike Ayriss 29 Oak Drive, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2PX email:[email protected] TECHNICAL ADVICE Lee Turnham Mike Ayriss 70 Prebendal Avenue, Aylesbury,Bucks. HP21 8LQ email:[email protected] 29 Oak Drive, Syston, Leicester. LE7 2PX email:[email protected] NEW SPARES MANAGER Lee Turnham 70 Prebendal Avenue, Aylesbury,Bucks. HP21 8LQ email:[email protected] ARCHIVE/RE-REGISTRATION and REGISTRAR Dave Watson c/o Ridgeway Furniture Ltd, Unit 21a Chartmoor Road, Leighton Buzzard, Bedfordshire. LU7 4WG email:[email protected] WEBMASTER Ian Parris 1 Winston Close, Nether Heyford, Northampton. NN7 3JX email:[email protected] COMMITTEE Jeff Todd 108 Clee Road, Grimsby. DN32 8NX email:[email protected] TECHNICAL ADVICE 600’s & 700’s Millstonford Farm, West Kilbride, Ayrshire. KA23 9PS Alastair Lauchland email:[email protected] Website www.isetta.org.uk Isetta World www.facebook.com/groups/267159327250111 I.O.C.O.G.B SUBSCRIPTION RATES United Kingdom (and members £18.00 receiving an emailed gazette) Europe £21.00 Rest Of World £25.00 Registered Office: Annual Subscription payments should be made by PayPal to [email protected] alternatively via the Online Spares System by purchasing an Annual Membership Subscription (Renewal Only) item or by Cheque to the Membership Secretary Ian Parris. For Standing Orders:- Sort Code 09-01-56 Account No. 00744809 account name Isetta Owners Subscriptions Account Ref. Your Name. Geoff Davey ACMA, 46 High Street, Gargrave, Nr Skipton. BD23 3RB 2 Company Reg. No. 2527362 Editors Bit What a difficult time we have all lived through with Covid, barely being able to go out, no rallies, no classic car meetings but things are looking up. It’s not been so easy for Lee our spares manager as you all seem to be working on your cars rather than driving them. keeping Lee busy picking, packing and posting spares. You will read below that our chairman Chris has had to relinquish his role due to ill health. On behalf of the committee, I would like to thank him for stepping into the role when he did and playing such an active part. Chris’ contribution to the club has been substantial and his organisational skills will be missed on the committee. Ian Parris Chairman's Chat Ladies and gents, young and old it has reached that time, much against my will, that I have to resign. It is purely because of my ill health and nothing that we can push on to Covid or B****t. I never thought I would end up as Chairman of such a committed group of enthusiasts but can honestly say that one could never have the compilation of such a group of individual characters have turned the Owners Group around and ended up with such a dynamic mob. It has not been perfect or a smooth ride, neither is it generally in a 300 either. ALL Committee and technical support members are volunteers and several still with current employment, which believe it or not they squeeze in time for the Club. My eyes were pushed wide open when I got to meet my colleagues and physically see what they do... NO I am not offering guided tours! It is because of these commitments that I ask members to respect the time given by the committee and only contact them ONLY by the details given in the Gazette so that return calls ( and where needed research ) can be completed, unless given other details, by that relevant member. Also if requested then further information or material can be provided for the call. My years as Club member and latterly Committee Chairman have been overall enjoyable having little work to do in the “boxing ring” !!!, not to mention the frustration in restoration of my car. It has been great attending National and Local shows representing Isetta members. Unfortunately all those booked over the lasts couple of years have gone or are going by the board due to Covid or my ill heath. One final farewell to you all with greatest of thanks to all the support given over this period with best wishes and pleasurable ownership to you all. Chris Skepper 3 Isetta World The IoC’s Forum on Facebook Facebook.com/groups/267159327250111 Isetta RHD gear linkage components and set up information I am told that of the Isettas in our club, about 50% are Right-Hand-Drive. However, there are no known official BMW Factory Drawings or Installation instructions for the gearchange mechanisms of Isetta 300s with Right-Hand-Drive. Owners may not be aware that the Isetta Owners Club of GB holds stock of all perishable parts, consumables, cables and brackets for gearchange components of Right-Hand-Drive cars ( see accompanying list ). Following requests on Isetta World we have put together some notes and tips for the installation and adjustment of Right-Hand gearchange linkages. These notes are guided by the experiences of Ray Glendinning (UK) who has owned and regularly used his RHD Isetta for many years and who recommends the useful modification of installing a removable inspection panel in the Isetta’s rear parcel shelf. Setting up the linkages is then very much easier, especially if you are on your own. *** Note – There are aspects of the Isetta’s Right-Hand gearchange installation which are critical in ensuring that all gears are available and engage smoothly and fully. Ray Advises “A lot of time and effort can be saved by replacing some parts with new before you begin. In my opinion it is not worth it to use non-standard home-made or altered or worn parts” *** Wherever there is a loose-fitting bushing and/or linkage connection there will be lost motion between the gear lever and the gearbox actuator, sometimes preventing gears from fully engaging. Ray advises “The most common items to change in the Engine Bay are the bushes / rubbers that fit to the moveable joints. If you are not sure replace them anyway with Part No 147/3. 4 “Replace all the linkage pins and split pins to ensure a tight fit.” “The cable can come complete with both adjustable ends and the tube which stops the inner cable from folding up. Depending on which cable you have or where you sourced it from, the adjustment threads may vary between 5mm – 2BA – 3/16th and 5/32nd , they will just about fit each other but not very well so don’t damage the threads or the locknuts.” *** If the cable is worn internally you will not be able to see it from outside but because it operates to “Push” as well as to “Pull” it may not adequately move the lever at the gearbox end, sometimes preventing the gears from fully engaging. Lubricate thoroughly along its whole length before installation ! Ray advises “The cranked horizontal rod link has a tendency to catch on the engine and impede its movement so make sure this is set to clear the engine.” “ I am not aware of any of the main metal brackets parts being different on different ages of cars, (but I could be wrong) .” “ When fitting the gear rods, fixings and cable, set the adjustment to the middle of the threads in order to be able to provide maximum adjustment either way as some gearboxes are more worn than others. You will most likely have to play with the adjustment of the cable to allow the gearbox selector to shift between 1st - 2nd and 3rd - 4th gears – it can be a close call to get it right. When done make sure that the 2BA locknuts are tight as vibration can catch you out when on the road.” *** Note also that if the gear lever abuts the choke lever bracket it will limit the “throw” of the linkages. Make sure there is a least ¼ inch clearance. *** See also the accompanying Schematic drawing and the IOC spares list extract which will be kept available for you to print out at … https://www.facebook.com/media/set?set=oa.437184490947752&type=3 Terry Parkin and Ray Glendinning February 2021 Facebook.com/groups/267159327250111 E. and O.E. 6 7 CAD Drawing During the 2019 Classic car show I got talking to club member who was retiring the following month and wondering how he could help our club, was that you because we still need your help? Do you have Drawing Office / CAD skills? One of the big issues with 3-wheeler ownership is the lack of exploded views for the rear axle assembly unlike the 4-wheeler of which BMW created a lovely drawing that helps the 3-wheeler owners a little but not enough when presented with a box of bits so a CAD drawn exploded drawing would help many owners, so can you help the club, do you have CAD drawing skills or even drawing board skills? If so, contact Mike Ayriss at [email protected] The front cover shows our Chairman Chris Skepper’s car. The Club is pleased to welcome:Kneale Metcalf Steve Lenoch Gavin Hardcastle-Jones Kento Tohara Bryan Chow David Sinnerton Jane Yearley Simon Wall John Sveistrup Mark Reed Richard Line Tim Cherrett Greg Steel Paul Marr Daniel Davey Mark Jeffrey Julie Hill Ben Sargent Flavio de Jesus Nev Pooley Philip Blake Frank Wood Norwich USA Surrey Japan Singapore West Sussex Waterlooville Leicestershire Canada Hampshire Worcestershire Eye New Zealand USA Canada Dronfield Pershore Hong Kong London East Sussex Biddulph USA New Members since the last Gazette To advertise your items for sale or want adds etc. please email the editor at '[email protected]' The Isetta Owners' Club of Great Britain Ltd. will not accept liability for any loss or damage resulting from articles, features, adverts or any other material published in The Isetta Gazette. Copyright The Isetta Owners' Club GB Ltd. PRINTED BY THISTLE PRINT LTD TEL: 0113 2040600 EMAIL: [email protected] 8 New Spares Thank you for all of your orders over the pandemic period. Please can I bring to your attention the following. When you place an order, PLEASE keep an eye on your emails, including your spam box as I will update you on your order. Should you be outside of the UK there will not be any telephone calls to address any issues, I cannot hold onto your orders indefinitely without contact back from yourselves, so I have taken the decision that if there is no return correspondence within 14 days your order will be cancelled and you will be refunded you payment. I try to turn your order around within 7 days, however I do hold down a full time occupation. Sorry to be blunt but I also have other interest which I wish to pursue. Lee Turnham New Spares Manager. WANTED Isetta 250/300 for restoration. Call Tim Cherrett on 07921192362. Major Maintenance September 2020 by David Marsh (Cont.) Phase Two - The Replacements In the introduction to this article I said the replacements would be:● ● ● ● ● A complete refurbished engine – including Carburettor and Dynastart swap. New Clutch. New Drive shaft couplings. New engine mounts. New Steering rod bushes. Plus a whole lot of cleaning and general lubrication and maintenance. Step One – Remove the engine (This is a very simple job now that the body is off.) ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● Drain the oil from the engine and gearbox whilst they are in situ. Support the engine underneath we used some wooden blocks to take the strain. Remove the silencer support brackets Undo the3 bolts holding the Exhaust to the cylinder and gently remove the silence and pipe as one. Disconnect the nuts on the engine mounting rubbers on the bottom. Remove the four nuts holding the Engine to the gear box (one is arrowed in the photo) Jiggle the engine to free it from the clutch and lift it clear onto the bench. Remove the ducting from around the Cylinder. 9 Step Two - Replace the drive couplings Leave the bands on the new coupling till they are in position. Do one side at a time Remove three bolts and nuts where the bolts are on the outside. Remove the bolts and nuts where the bolt is on the inside (rotating the shaft/coupling to remove the bolts). ● Put the new coupling in place and reverse the removal procedure putting the bolts on the inside in first. ● As you tighten these up the band will get very loose and so at the end just cut it off with some snips. ● Double check all the bolts are tight. ● ● ● ● 10 Step Three - Fit a new clutch. To do this you will need three 6 mm dia and 45 mm long bolts with a nut on it. Assemble the clutch Put in position and put in the three bolts described before gradually tightening it up in place using the nuts to apply pressure to the spring through the driving plate. You need to centre the driving sprocket in the centre – there is a special tool available to do this – however you can do it by eye. Note as the reassembly of this to the gearbox progresses later on you may need to reposition it if it does not line up. Once the spring is compressed put in the original retaining bolts then one at a time substitute the temporary bolts with the original ones. 11 Check the seal on the gearbox to the clutch – and change it – it’s a standard oil seal available from most good car parts stores. 32x47m TC12504 Oil Seal (see below) In addition to this I decided to replace the clutch operating rod and the thrust bearing. Confusingly there are a couple of options here – first in terms of the push rod and then the bearing which can come in as one unit or in pieces. Luckily Lee from the IOC set me a complete set so no worries there. !! Step Four - Refit or fit the dynastart and set the contact breaker points The replacement dynastart stator I was to use had been serviced/rebuilt here in Nelson by a company that specialises in doing motor rewinds and builds. They replaced all the mica panels, straightened up the whole thing as in the past someone had removed it using the rotor removal tool which had bent the inner plate outwards so that the brushes did not fit on the commutator. They also replaced the “fish paper” over the coils and replaced the spring and holders for the brushes with new ones. They also had used a growler to test the Rotor. I saw this being used. This tested each segment on the rotor. The rotor is held in position and turned slowly over a plate which (if the section is good) it growls if it’s not its silent. A wonderful thing to see. With a new dynastart you may have to get new woodruff or sheer keys. I was only able to get standard one which required a lot of filing to make them fit properly. With the Stator in place I used my special tool to set the contact breaker gap and timing. This special tool is an advance and retard unit taken from a broken blower cover. This I put on and bolt it into place and without the cover in the way you can easily set the gap etc. Not only that I can (if the engine is connected up) test the whole contact breaker thing etc is working on the bench). My Photo does NOT have the centre bolt in it!! 12 Once happy with this then it’s put on a real fan cover and then the outer cover. Step Five – Fit Carburettor I had a new carburettor to go onto the engine so before putting it on I decided to strip it and clean it thoroughly. Interestingly it went well and to my surprise the new carburettor had an O ring fitted to the galas bowl locating slot rather than the classic cork one. It seems to have worked just fine – so far!! Step Six – Change Steering Rack bar bushes Remove the nut bolt and washers that secure the steering rack bar to the suspension towers. Ideally use a machine press to remove the old metalastic bushes from the track rod and to insert the new ones. (Note: If you don’t have one of these presses available the same thing can be done using short lengths of appropriate sized tube (or even sockets) and a nut and bolt to push out the old bush and insert the new one. Refit the rack making sure you have placed the oversize washers on top and bottom of the eye which stop the bush from falling out! Perhaps fit some Nylock nuts?? Step Seven – Refit engine cowling Refit exhaust pipe to the engine at the exhaust manifold Refit exhaust pipe to silencer and bolt silencer back onto place. Refit cooling cowling around the inlet and exhaust manifold and the rocker box covers Phase Three - Refit the Body ● Before refitting the body there are some important preparations to be done. ● Clear all the threaded fixings for the body to the chassis by using a tap of the correct size. ● Clean all bolts used to secure the body to the chassis or use new some new ones. ● Apply anti seize etc to the threaded fixings. ● Check all the rubber pads that cushion the body to the chassis are in place and serviceable. ● Grease and oil all the cables – especially the clutch, speedo and hand brake, check the slots that are used to fit the clutch and brake cables to the body are clear and perhaps widen them as appropriate. ● Tie the brake pipes that bolt onto the wing out of the way to the suspensions pillars. ● Put new rubber bushes into the gear change linkage. ● Grease all the grease nipple points and check they are working OK – if in doubt replace. ● Check oil level in engine, gearbox and transmission. 13 Using two people at the front and two at the back - lift the body – when lowering the body onto the chassis make sure you locate it over the master cylinder filler cap. (To assist you in this process you could put some short lengths of threaded stud into some of the mounting holes as this would guide the body back to place.) Reconnection 1. Fit the rubber unit that sits on/over the front bar of the chassis and fills the gap between the chassis and body. 2. Check mounting holes line up with holes in the body. 3. Refit any additional earth strap from the chassis to the body. 4. Refit Earth strap for the battery in the car – make sure its tight and clean connection. 5. Reconnect the dynastart pillar to the power in lead from the body. 6. Refit the 2 leads from the dynastart to regulator. 7. Refit dynastart lead to the coil. 8. Refit HT lead to the coil. 9. Refit battery and connect up. 10. Check engine turns over on the starter and there is a spark at the spark plug. 11. Fit spark plug to cylinder and HT lead to spark plug. 12. Fit Bracket that secures the body to the chassis to support the “bonnet.” 13. Reconnect fuel pipe to carburettor. 14. Replace fuel into tank. 15. Refit fuel switch rod to fuel tap with split pin. 16. Turn on fuel tap and check for leaks in fuel system. 17. Insert carburettor throttle slide (with needle assemble etc still attached to the cable) back into carburettor. 18. Fit the choke cable and choke back into carburettor. 19. Using throttle cable under floor to operate the carburettor, start and test run engine. 20. Refit bolts inside car that hold body to chassis, 3, 3 then the 2 front outside bolts. 21. Fit pedal assembly with gasket to floor using 4 bolts. 22. Jack front of car up to give a working clearance to work on the pedal linkage. 23. Underneath connect throttle, clutch and brake levers in the pedal assembly to the cables and springs using washers and spilt pins. (Note the connection rods 26 and 50 are different lengths – so fit the shorter one to the clutch.) 14 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. Grease and oil connection of levers to cables. Refit cables to the brake light switch on the master cylinder. Fix brake pipe anchor plates to inside of the front wheels. Refit Gear change rods using new split pins. ( note the grommets in the eye of these rods need to be in good condition) Remove Jack from front of car. Jack up rear of car up to give a working clearance to work on clutch cable to clutch and handbrake to rear wheel. Refit Hand brake cable to the lever inside the car using spit pins Bolt handbrake cable to the floor using two bolts. Connect hand brake cable into the bracket under the car and adjust it so handbrake operates correctly. Fit cable to clutch and adjust. The correct method to do this is to set operating arm as closely as you can to be vertical put cable into stop end on gearbox and fit adjuster unit into place using the slot for the cable. Adjust the adjuster to take out slack. NOTE tightening the cable at the adjuster moves the clutch pedal release point for the clutch earlier up the pedal and loosening it moves the release point closer to the floor. Dejack the rear of the car. Fit cover plate or mat to around the master cylinder. Screw the steering wheel back into the top of the pedal unit. Refit the four machine screws that secure the steering wheel to the pedal mechanism. Refit the bolt holding the steering when to the dash board Refit horn wire to steering column. Refit the speedo cable to the speedo head unit then through the firewall to the drive point on the transmission case. Put tow brackets and cow catchers back in place and secure with four large bolts. FOR SALE Isetta Restoration by John Jensen © 1991 is a guide for restoring the BMW Isetta 300, US export, sliding-window model. With 200 pages of text and over 50 line drawings, Isetta Restoration is a comprehensive guide to accompany you through the restoration of your Isetta. Whether you simply want to make it driveable again or restore it to “like new” condition, this book will help you accomplish the task. The bible for Isetta restoration,long out of print,this copy is in unmarked condition. £35 ONO including UK postage. Contact…. Chris Skepper [email protected] Tel 07894176932 located Cambridgeshire 15 Isetta Servicing Checklist etc This service schedule covers the regular 1,000 mile service and also the Annual Service. Time – Regular service three hours – Annual check four to five hours. Owner to supply Engine, King Pin, Gearbox and Transmission oils as below, Dot 4 Hydraulic Fluid, Spare spark plug, 4 spare gear change rod rubber grommet/bushes, Spare Clutch and Throttle cables. Replacement contact breakers, Special contact breaker gap setting and fan cover removal tools. Prerequisites from Garage Grease gun, Two post 4 leg Car lift, Large trolley Jack, axle stands, Waste oil receptacle, Copper crush washers for oils drain plugs. Brake Cleaner. 1 1a 2 3 4 4a 4b 4c 5 6 Position car in the centre of the two post car lift. Annual Service - Using Trolley Jack raise front and remove both wheels and use axle stands to steady the car. Position legs of Car lift as shown in Photograph. Raise Car. Drain Oil from Sump, Gearbox. Annual Service - Drain chain case. Annual Service - Let down rear tyre and remove rear wheel. Annual Service -Remove all three brake hubs – clean and inspect hubs brake shoes and hydraulic rubbers. Refit Hubs and rear wheel. Grease front grease points – 5. Check cable ends into the pedal (Throttle and clutch) put grease into gaiters/boots. 16 Turn off battery, Fuel, Leave door open You will need a second person to steady the car – Check condition of tyres – front 20 psi Remove axle stands Check condition of rear tyre 24psi Note - On rear wheel clean any oil that has come through onto the brake back plate from the transmission. 2 each side on the king pins and one on the pedal linkage If cables are damaged I have spares and or they can be repaired by Nelson Brakes 7 8 9 10 11 12 12a 12b 12c 13 13a 14 15 16 Check bolts on steering track rods – do not over tighten. Steering damper. Top up pots on front suspension both sides. Adjust Clutch cable – Check free play at pedal -Ensure there is a gap in the lower adjuster on gearbox – Check condition of cable. Inspect rubber grommets/bushes on the gear change rods (4) replace as required. Fill gearbox using hand oil pump (check level when car back on floor.) Refit Fit Sump drain plug to Engine. Annual Service – Remove fan cover and check condition and gap of contact breakers – (14 thousandths of inch or 0.4mm max) Refit fan etc. This uses the special mix oil which is 50% 110 Hypoid oil and 50% grease Use 20w-50 oil Note you will need the fan removal tool and also the advance and retard tool to be able to set the points This will require the loosening of the nuts holding down the fan shroud around the engine so the exterior cover can be removed. It may be advisable to leave the completion of the above until the end of the service (before point 20) so you can check run the engine before and after this operation Annual Service - Refill Use 20w-50 oil transmission (check level when car back on floor). Final check of underside – Brake pipes, Cables etc Annual Service - Replace axle stands - Refit front wheels. Lower car to floor - Check wheel nut tightness. Grease two nipples on steering column. Fold down seat – undo vertical inspection panel – two screws Remove spark plug and clean – gap is 0. 25 thousandths of inch or 0.6mm. Replace spark plug. Replace cover and seat. 16a 16b 17 18 19 19a 19b 20 Annual Service - Remove top inspection panel 6 screws to access rocker cover. Annual Service – Cold Engine Rocker arm clearance 6 thousandths of an inch or 0.15mm gap inlet 8 thousandths of inch or 0.20mm exhaust – Hot engine - Head bolts torque 25 foot pounds - Replace cover. Under seat Check Level of Hydraulic liquid in reservoir – top up as required Refill engine sump. Check levels of Gearbox, Transmission and top up. Annual Service - Check level of transmission oil Annual Service – Check adjustment of chain – Remove inspection plug – check for chain movement 1 cm max and adjust using the quadrant. Test Drive – check operation of Clutch, Horn, Lights, Brake lights, Indicators, Windscreen wiper. DOT 4 Fluid Note oils are: Summer 15w - 50 Winter 10w or 5w- 30 Note this is a RIGHT Hand drive Four wheeler picture Red arrows – points for car lift to lift on Green arrows Grease nipples (underneath) David Marsh Hagerty International Ltd. Good news for club members. The club has agreed a discount on insurance premiums for club members insuring with Hagerty International Ltd. By quoting our club code CCIOC members will receive a 15% discount on their premium. Don’t forget, laid up cars can also be insured. Telephone 0333 323 0989 email: www.hagertyinsurance.co.uk