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Summary of Content
Factory Workshop Manual
Make
Chevrolet
Model
C Tahoe 2wd
Engine and year
V8-5.7L VIN R (1996)
Please navigate through the PDF using the options
provided by OnlyManuals.com on the sidebar.
This manual was submitted by
Anonymous
Date
1st January 2018
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-64-007A
Date: September 22, 2008
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the models affected list above. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-46-007 (Section 08 - Body & Accessories).
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog / Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 8
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar(R) - Aftermarket Device
Interference Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-08-46-004
Date: August 14, 2008
Subject: Information on Aftermarket Device Interference with OnStar(R) Diagnostic Services
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Car and Truck (including Saturn) 2009 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 Models 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
This bulletin is being issued to provide dealer service personnel with information regarding
aftermarket devices connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector (DLC) and the impact to
OnStar(R) diagnostic probes and Vehicle Diagnostic e-mails.
Certain aftermarket devices, when connected to the Diagnostic Link Connector, such as, but not
limited to, Scan Tools, Trip Computers, Fuel Economy Analyzers and Insurance Tracking Devices,
interfere with OnStar's ability to perform a diagnostic probe when requested (via a blue button call)
by a subscriber. These devices also prohibit the ability to gather diagnostic and tire pressure data
for a subscriber's scheduled OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail.
These aftermarket devices utilize the Vehicles serial data bus to perform data requests and/or
information gathering. When these devices are requesting data, OnStar(R) is designed not to
interfere with any data request being made by these devices as required by OBD II regulations.
The OnStar(R) advisor is unable to definitively detect the presence of these devices and will only
be able to inform the caller or requester of the unsuccessful or incomplete probe and may in some
cases refer the subscriber/requester to take the vehicle to a dealer for diagnosis of the concern.
When performing a diagnostic check for an unsuccessful or incomplete OnStar(R) diagnostic
probe, or for concerns regarding completeness of the OnStar(R) Vehicle Diagnostic (OVD) e-mail,
verify that an aftermarket device was not present at the time of the requested probe. Regarding the
OVD e-mail, if an aftermarket device is interfering (including a Scan Tool of any type), the e-mail
will consistently display a "yellow" indication in diagnostics section for all vehicle systems except
the OnStar(R) System and Tire Pressure data (not available on all vehicles) will not be displayed
(i.e. section is collapsed). Successful diagnostic probes and complete OVD e-mails will resume
following the removal or disconnecting of the off-board device.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment >
Emergency Contact Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > OnStar(R) - Analog Only Systems
Information > Page 9
Emergency Contact Module: Technical Service Bulletins OnStar - Analog-Only Systems
Information
Bulletin No.: 06-08-46-007
Date: December 13, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on OnStar(R) Analog-Only Systems
Models: 1996-2001 GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Plus: 2002 Buick LeSabre, Rendezvous 2002-2003 Buick Century, Regal 2002-2005 Buick Park
Avenue 2002 Cadillac Eldorado, Escalade Models 2002 Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado,
Suburban, Tahoe, Venture 2002 GMC Denali, Denali XL, Jimmy, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2002
Oldsmobile Intrigue, Silhouette 2002-2003 Oldsmobile Aurora 2002 Pontiac Aztek, Bonneville,
Montana 2002-2003 Pontiac Grand Prix
with OnStar(R) (RPO UE1)
All vehicles equipped with OnStar(R) listed in this bulletin were built with Analog-Only OnStar(R)
Hardware. OnStar(R) equipped vehicles with analog-only equipment were designed to operate only
on the analog wireless network and cannot be upgraded for digital network compatibility.
Vehicles with this equipment will no longer be able to receive OnStar(R) services beginning
January 1, 2008. At that time, service will be available only through Dual-Mode (Analog/Digital)
equipment. Analog-Only vehicles cannot be upgraded to digital equipment.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: Customer Interest Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 18
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 19
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Relay Module: > 09-06-03-004D >
Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 20
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 26
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 27
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Accessories and Optional Equipment > Relay
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Relay Module: >
09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 28
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Power Door Lock Relay: Locations
POWER DOOR LOCK RELAY
Power Door Lock Relay
The Power Door Lock Relay is located under the center portion of Instrument panel (I/P), near
Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR).
NOTE: This relay is used only on 4 Door and 2 Door Utility, Crew Cab/Suburban.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock Relay >
Component Information > Locations > Page 33
Door Lock Relay
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
The relay is located inside the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) and cannot be serviced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
The Electronic Brake Control Unit (EBCM) is mounted to the top of the Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve (BPMV) and is housed in aluminum with a black plastic top.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 41
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 226 EBCM Replacement.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove bolts securing shield (if equipped) and BPMV to EHCU mounting bracket, Fig. 226, then
disconnect (EBCM) Electronic Brake Control
Module electrical connectors.
3. Remove Torx bolts securing EBCM to BPMV, then separate EBCM from BPMV.
Do not pry on components to separate.
4. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Install a new EBCM gasket and mounting bolts. Do not use any gasket sealant. b. Torque EBCM
to BPMV bolts to 39 inch lbs. in a crisscross pattern.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan Motor
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Locations
Cruise Control Module: Locations
Cruise Control Module
Vehicle Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Cruise Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 52
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 53
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 54
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Cruise Control > Cruise Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 55
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Cruise Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 83
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 84
Cruise Control Module
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Cruise Control Module
Cruise Control Module: Description and Operation Cruise Control Module
Fig. 1 Cruise Control Module.
The cruise control module is mounted near the master cylinder on the engine side of the cowl. The
module houses an electronic controller and an electric motor. Together, these components vary
throttle position in response to cruise control mode selection.
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Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 87
Cruise Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 15 Cruise control module & cable replacement
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
2. Disconnect cruise control cable from module, Fig. 15.
3. Remove module attaching screws, then disconnect electrical connector and remove module.
The module cannot be serviced.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Blower Motor Relay > Component
Information > Locations > Blower Motor Relay High Front
Blower Motor Relay: Locations Blower Motor Relay High Front
Behind I/P Compartment Box on HVAC Plenum
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Information > Locations > Blower Motor Relay High Front > Page 93
Blower Motor Relay: Locations Blower Relay
High
Heater And Air Conditioning Wiring
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Information > Locations > Blower Motor Relay High Front > Page 94
Auxiliary Heater And Air Conditioning Wiring, Rear
Under I/P, on top of HVAC Plenum
Auxiliary Heater And Air Conditioning Wiring, Rear
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Information > Locations > Blower Motor Relay High Front > Page 95
Auxiliary Heater And Air Conditioning Wiring, Rear
Medium Rear
On Auxiliary Heater and A/C Module
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Information > Locations > Page 96
High Blower Relay
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Blower Motor Relay: Service and Repair
1 Screw, 2 Resistor, 3 Relay Bracket, 4 Relay
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Instrument panel compartment. 3. Electrical connectors, as necessary.
4. Relay from relay bracket.
Install or Connect
1. Relay to relay bracket. 2. Electrical connectors, as necessary. 3. Instrument panel compartment.
4. Negative battery cable.
- Check circuit operation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Compressor Clutch Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Auxiliary System
Control Module HVAC: Locations Auxiliary System
Overhead Console
Auxiliary Heater and A/C Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Auxiliary System > Page 105
Overhead Console
Control Modules are attached to Control Assemblies.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - HVAC > Control Module HVAC > Component
Information > Locations > Auxiliary System > Page 106
Control Module HVAC: Locations Blower Control Module
HVAC Control Panel & Module
Control Module is attached to Control Assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Instrument Panel > Audible Warning Device
Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Convenience Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Brake Lamp Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Lamp Relay: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
In Underhood Fuse-Relay Center.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations
Daytime Running Lamp Control Unit: Locations
This article has been updated with Bulletin No.: 76-81-06.
DAYTIME RUNNING LAMPS (DRL) MODULE
The Daytime Running Lamps (DRL) Module is located under LH side of Instrument Panel (I/P),
taped on I/P harness.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Control Unit > Component Information > Locations > Page 118
DRL Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Convenience Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 122
Daytime Running Lamp Relay: Diagrams
Convenience Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Daytime Running Lamp
Relay > Component Information > Locations > Page 123
Convenience Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp Relay
> Component Information > Locations
Convenience Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Horn Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module
> Component Information > Locations
Interior Lighting Module: Locations
View: Under Center Of Instrument Panel
Interior Lamp Control Module, Remote Control Door Lock Receiver
Manufacturer supplied 2 different possible locations. Look for 5 wire connector with wire colors:
gray, white, orange, pink & black.
#PIT3819: Location of Interior Lamp Control Module - keywords control dim dome electrical entry
ground illumination inoperative keyless lens light remort resistor RKE short - (Dec 23, 2005)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module
> Component Information > Locations > Page 133
Subject: Location of Interior Lamp Control Module.
Models: 1995-2000 Chevrolet C/K Trucks, Suburban and Tahoe 1995-2000 GMC Yukon and C/K
Trucks Classic Body Style Only
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this P1.
Condition/Concern
When diagnosing a dome lamp concern on one of the vehicles listed above, you may be unable to
locate the
Interior Lamp Control Module that is called out in the Service Manual.
Recommendation/lnstructions:
Only vehicles without Remote Keyless Entry (RPO AUO) will be equipped with a Interior Lamp
Control Module. If the vehicle is equipped with (RKE) Remote Keyless Entry, the illumination
module is a internal part of RKE Module.
Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition
exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be
performed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Lighting and Horns > Interior Lighting Module
> Component Information > Locations > Page 134
Interior Lamp Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID
Relay Box: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-82-08
Date: August, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A-11 Fuse Block Details Revised Convenience Center Table
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K models.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID > Page 140
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID > Page 141
This bulletin revises "Convenience Center" table on Page 8A-11-5, 6 in the 1996 C/K Service
Manual, Page 8A-11-6, 7 in the 1997 C/K Service Manual, and Page 8A-11-5 in the 1998 C/K
Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 142
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 143
Relay Box: Application and ID
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Power and Ground Distribution > Relay Box >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 144
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage >
Page 160
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No
DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 173
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 174
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 175
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 176
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 177
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 178
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 179
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 185
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 186
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
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Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 192
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 193
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
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Engine Control Module: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
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Vehicle Control Module
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Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 225
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Information and Instructions > Page 226
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information and Instructions > Page 227
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 228
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information and Instructions > Page 229
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 230
Engine Control Module: Connector Views
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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Information and Instructions > Page 231
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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Information and Instructions > Page 232
Connector Terminal ID
ECM/PCM/VCM Pinout Voltage
The OE manufacture does not provide an ECM/PCM/VCM connector voltage pinout chart for this
vehicle, only a function description.
Connector End View
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 233
Connector Terminal ID
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 234
Connector Terminal ID
Connector End View
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 235
Connector Terminal ID
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 236
Connector Terminal ID
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 237
Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
Control Module Service Precautions
The control module is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operations. Avoid overloading any circuit. When testing for opens or shorts, do not ground any of
the control module circuits unless instructed. When testing for opens or shorts, do not apply voltage
to any of the control module circuits unless instructed. Only test these circuits with a digital
voltmeter J 39200, while the control module connectors remain connected to the control module.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The VCM is located on the right hand side fenderwell. The VCM is the control center for the fuel,
emissions, ignition, and automatic transmission control functions.
The VCM constantly monitors the information from the various sensors. The VCM controls the
component systems which affect the engine operation.
The VCM alerts the driver through the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or the antilock indicator
lamp. The VCM stores the DTCs which identify the problem areas for the technician making
repairs. Refer to Vehicle Control Module, for further information on using the diagnostic function of
the VCM for engine operation.
^ Refer to Transmission for the diagnosis of the automatic transmission.
^ Refer to Anti-lock brakes for diagnosis of the brake system.
The VCM in this vehicle is programmable. The only services allowed on the VCM is the control
module replacement with the Knock Sensor (KS) calibrator Programmable Read Only Memory
(PROM) transferred or the KS calibrator PROM only.
The KS calibrator contains the up integrated knock sensor calibration. The VCM stores the 4
calibrations in the Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When replacing the VCM, programming the EEPROM and transferring the KS calibrator PROM to
the new VCM is mandatory. Refer to the EEPROM Programming. Refer to VCM
Replacement/Programming. See: Service and Repair
The 4 calibrations required for the VCM are the Powertrain, the ABS, the VSS buffer, and the A/C.
Each calibration has its own part number. Determine the correct calibrations for a particular vehicle
based on the VIN number of the vehicle.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is on the instrument panel. The MIL has the following
functions:
^ The MIL informs the driver that a fault that affects the vehicle's emission levels has occurred. The
owner should take the vehicle for service as soon as possible.
^ As a bulb and system check, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on with the key on and
the engine not running. When the engine is started, the MIL turns off if no DTCs are set.
When the MIL remains on while the engine is running, or when a malfunction is suspected due to a
driveability or emissions problem, perform an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check. The
procedures for these checks are given in engine controls. These checks expose faults which the
technician may not detect if other diagnostics are performed first.
DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION
The diagnostic Tables and functional checks are designed to locate a faulty circuit or component
through a process of logical decisions. The Tables are prepared with the assumption that the
vehicle functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that there are not multiple faults present.
There is a continuous self-diagnosis on certain control functions. This diagnostic capability is
complemented by the diagnostic procedures contained in this manual. The language of
communicating the source of the malfunction is a system of diagnostic trouble codes. When a
malfunction is detected by the control module, a diagnostic trouble code will set and the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Malfunction Indicator Lamp will illuminate on some applications.
VCM LEARNING ABILITY
WARNING: Since the VCM is located under the hood, its connectors are sealed and cannot be
backprobed as in the previous model years. Do not attempt to backprobe as a connector or seal
damage could occur.
The VCM's learning ability allows it to make corrections for minor variations in the fuel system in
order to improve driveability. When the battery is disconnected for other repairs, the learning
process resets. The driver my note a change in the vehicle's performance. In order to teach the
vehicle ensure that the engine is at the operating temperature. Drive the vehicle at part throttle with
a moderate acceleration and idle conditions until normal performance returns.
INPUT INFORMATION
The VCM processes the various input information. Then the VCM sends the necessary electrical
responses to the control fuel delivery, the spark timing, and the other emission control systems.
The input information interrelates to more than one output; therefore, if the one input fails, the
failure can affect more than one system's operation.
PROM (KS Module)
This assembly contains an electronic Knock Sensor (KS) module.
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MEMORY
There are two types of memory storage within the VCM, EEPROM and RAM.
EEPROM
Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory that is
physically soldered to the circuit boards within the VCM. The EEPROM contains the overall control
algorithms. The EEPROM can be reprogrammed by using the scan tool.
RAM
Random Access Memory (RAM) is the microprocessor scratch pad. The processor can write into or
read from this memory as needed. This memory is volatile and needs a constant supply of voltage
to be retained. If the voltage is lost, the memory is lost.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The approved procedure for diagnosing all powertrain control system faults is included in the
Strategy Based Diagnostics. The preliminary checks and the Powertrain On-board Diagnostic
System Check must be performed to successfully diagnose and repair the powertrain systems. To
read and clear diagnostic trouble codes, use a scan tool. See: Powertrain Management/Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Use a scan tool to clear diagnostic trouble codes from the VCM memory. Diagnostic trouble codes
can also be cleared by turning OFF the ignition and disconnecting the battery power from the VCM
for 30 seconds, but this method will also cause all diagnostic information in the VCM memory to be
cleared and all the diagnostic tests will have to be re-run.
Since the VCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, following the approved
diagnostic procedures will determine which circuit has a problem and where it is. If a diagnostic
table indicates that the VCM connections or VCM is the cause of a problem and the VCM is
replaced. but does not correct the problem, one of the following conditions may exist:
^ There is a problem with the VCM terminal connections. The diagnostic table will indicate that the
VCM connections or VCM is the problem. The terminals may have to be removed from the VCM
connector in order to check them properly.
^ The EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to Symptoms and make a careful visual and physical inspection
of all suspected components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned ON and OFF
by the VCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called output driver modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the VCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Control Module Replacement
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Control Module Replacement
VCM Harness Connections
VCM Access Cover
Removing Knock Sensor Module From PCM
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Control Module Replacement > Page 244
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING
Service of the VCM consists of either replacement of VCM or reprogramming of the EEPROM. If
the diagnostics call for replacement of the VCM, it will be necessary to transfer the PROM and
program the EEPROM.
NOTE: When replacing the production VCM with a service VCM (controller), it is important to
transfer the broadcast code and production VCM number to the service VCM label. This will allow
positive identification of VCM parts throughout the service life of the vehicle. Also transfer the
PROM.
CAUTION: To prevent internal VCM damage, the ignition must be OFF when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the VCM (for example, battery cable, VCM fuse, jumper cables, etc.).
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING (WITH KNOCK SENSOR (KS) CALIBRATION PROM)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the connectors from the VCM. 3. Remove the
spring retainer off and over the rail of the VCM. Slide the VCM out of the bracket at an angle. 4.
Remove the VCM access cover. 5. Remove the PROM/Knock Sensor (KS) module. 6. Inspect for
the alignment notches of the KS Calibration PROM. 7. Carefully set it aside. 8. Do not open the KS
Calibration PROM. 9. Remove the new VCM from the packaging. Check the service number in
order to make sure it is the same as the defective VCM.
10. Remove the access cover.
NOTE
^ The Knock Sensor (KS) module must be transferred to the replacement VCM.
^ The replacement VCM is supplied without a EEPROM program, the replacement VCM must be
programmed before the vehicle will run.
^ Using the thumb and first finger, remove the KS Calibration PROM by gently squeezing each end
of the blue KS Calibration PROM
^ Do not remove the cover of the KS Calibration PROM. Use of an unapproved KS Calibration
PROM removal methods may cause damage to the KS Calibration PROM or the socket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Press only on the ends of the KS Calibration PROM. Gently press on the KS Calibration
PROM until it is firmly seated in the socket. Listen for the click.
1. Align the notches of the KS Calibration PROM with the notches in the KS Calibration PROM
socket. 2. Install the KS Calibration PROM in the KS Calibration PROM socket. 3. Install the
access cover on the VCM. 4. Install the VCM in the engine compartment. 5. Install the connectors
to the VCM. 6. The MIL, antilock and brake lamps will continue to be enabled until the VCM is
programmed. Once the programming is complete, the lamps will
turn off and normal operation will occur.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Control Module Replacement > Page 245
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
8. Proceed to the EEPROM programming. See: EEPROM Programming
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Control Module Replacement > Page 246
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair EEPROM Programming
CAUTION: The ignition should always be "off" when installing or removing the Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) connectors.
1. Set-up:
^ Battery is charged.
^ Ignition is "ON."
^ Battery/cig. lighter Connection secure.
^ Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Refer to up-to-date Techline terminal/equipment user's instructions.
3. If Vehicle Control Module (VCM) fails to program, do the following:
^ Check all VCM connections.
^ check Techline terminal/equipment for latest software version.
^ Try again to program the VCM. If it fails again, replace the VCM. Refer to VCM replacement. See:
Control Module Replacement
4. Perform the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve reset procedure with the scan tool. use misc. test. 5. For
a functional check perform one of the steps:
^ Use the Techline terminal and equipment in order to perform the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD)
System Check
^ Refer to Powertrain OBD System Check. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Emission Control Systems > Air Injection Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay center
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Locations
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Module
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Locations > Page 258
Fuel Pump Balance Module
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Information > Locations > Page 259
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Description and Operation
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times
Fuel Gage Indicates Empty At All Times
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 262
Fuel Gage Indicates Full At All Times
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 263
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 2 Of 2)
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 264
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Runs Out of Fuel (Rear Tank Not
Empty)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 1 Of 2)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 2 Of 2)
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 265
Fuel Gage Does Not Change Position On Scale
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 266
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire and personal in jury that may result from a fuel leak, always
replace O-ring seals exposed during component service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen the filler cap(s) to Relieve fuel tank pressure.
See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the
electrical connector. 4. Clean both fuel pipe connections and surrounding areas at the fuel pump
before disconnecting to avoid possible contamination of the fuel system. 5. Disconnect both fuel
pipes from the pump. 6. Slide the pump out of the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel pipe O-rings. 2. Position the new pump in the pump bracket. 3. Connect the
fuel feed pipe and suction pipe to the fuel pump.
Tighten Use a backup wrench to prevent the pump from turning. Tighten the fittings to 3O Nm (22 lb. ft.).
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 267
6.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
6.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
6.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY
Auxiliary Battery Wiring
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in Underhood Fuse Relay Center. The Underhood Fuse Relay
Center is located on the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay (Balance Pump)
FUEL PUMP RELAY (BALANCE PUMP)
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Relay
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 305
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 306
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 307
Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
Fuel Pump Balance Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR VIEW
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 308
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Refer to terminals, A1 - B1 B2 - A3 - B3.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel
Pump Relay Operation
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Pump Relay Operation
OPERATION
When the key is turned ON with out the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay
ON for two seconds. This builds up fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two
seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump OFF and waits until the engine starts. As soon as
the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay ON and runs the fuel pump. When the
engine is cranking or running, the control module receives the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors. As a backup system to the fuel pump
relay, the fuel pump can also be turned ON by a fuel pump oil pressure switch. When the engine
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), and the fuel pump relay does not complete the circuit, the fuel pump
oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold.
The fuel pump oil pressure switch will turn ON the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about
28 kPa (4 psi).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel
Pump Relay Operation > Page 311
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Balance Module Control System (Dual Tanks)
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation >
Page 312
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the relay.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the relay. 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
Ignition Control Driver (ICD) Module And Ignition Coil
The Ignition Coil Driver Module is mounted on a bracket next to the coil. The Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) signals the Ignition Control Driver (ICD) to turn "ON" primary current to the ignition
coil by pulling the Ignition Control (IC) line high (4 volts). The IC turns the primary current "ON" and
"OFF" by applying and removing the ground to the primary winding at the appropriate time. This
module is of 'minimum function" and does not contain backup calibrations that would allow the
engine to continue to rim if the IC signal is lost.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 317
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
If the vehicle cranks for at least 5 seconds and the Engine Control Module doesn't see a referance
signal, some Models will set a code, 42 (Hard) or 12 (Soft). If your vehicle has one of these codes,
begin with the Diagnostic System Check in Computers and Controls, then proceed to the Trouble
Code Chart (Yes, some vehicles have a DTC Chart for Code 12).
If the vehicle does not set a code, begin with the Diagnostic System Check, and it will send you to
a Diagnostic Chart that checks for your particular condition.
These types of tests are found under Computers and Control Systems. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations
Air Bag Control Module: Locations System Component Locations
Fig. 4 Air Bag System Component Locations
Refer to Fig. 4 for air bag system component locations.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations > Page 323
Air Bag Control Module: Locations Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module (DERM)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > System Component Locations > Page 324
Cargo Lamp Switch Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 325
Description
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 326
Air Bag Control Module: Description and Operation
A function of the DERM is to supply the deployment loop with a 36 volt loop reserve to ensure
sufficient energy to deploy the air bag if the ignition feed to the arming sensor is lost during a frontal
collision. Another function of the DERM is electrical system diagnostics. The DERM can detect
circuit and component malfunctions within the deployment loop. Voltage drops across components
within the loop are measured during non-deployment conditions. If the monitored voltages fall
outside of the expected limits, the DERM will indicate a malfunction through the storage of a
diagnostic trouble code and the illumination of the air bag warning light.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Restraint Systems > Air Bag Control Module >
Component Information > Locations > Page 327
Air Bag Control Module: Service and Repair
Prior to performing replacement procedures, disarm air bag system. Refer to, Service and Repair/
Air Bag System Disarming & Air Bag System Arming. Refer to, / Specifications/ Mechanical for
torque values when installing components. All sensors and mounting bracket bolts must be
carefully torqued to assure proper operation. Never power up the air bag system when any sensor
is not rigidly attached to the vehicle, since the sensor could be activated when not attached,
causing air bag deployment.
Do not open DERM case for any reason. Touching connector pins or soldered components may
cause electrostatic discharge damage. Repair of a malfunctioning DERM is by replacement only.
1. Remove DERM from mounting bracket. 2. Remove Connector Position Assurance (CPA) lock,
then disconnect DERM electrical connector from DERM. 3. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
In Underhood Fuse - Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 342
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and
Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 348
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > NHTSA98V150001 > Jul > 98 > Recall
98V150001: Windshield Wiper Defect
Wiper Control Module: Recalls Recall 98V150001: Windshield Wiper Defect
Light duty pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles, 2 and 4-wheel drive. Solder joints near the wiring
harness connector can crack causing the windshield wipers to work intermittently.
This condition can result in inoperative wipers, reducing a driver's visibility, and increasing the risk
of a vehicle crash.
Dealers will replace the wiper motor circuit board and cover.
Owner notification began December 15, 1998. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized
dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable
time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020 or GMC at 1-800-462-8782. Also contact the
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT
(1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > NHTSA98V150001 > Jul
> 98 > Recall 98V150001: Windshield Wiper Defect
Wiper Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 98V150001: Windshield Wiper Defect
Light duty pickup trucks and sport utility vehicles, 2 and 4-wheel drive. Solder joints near the wiring
harness connector can crack causing the windshield wipers to work intermittently.
This condition can result in inoperative wipers, reducing a driver's visibility, and increasing the risk
of a vehicle crash.
Dealers will replace the wiper motor circuit board and cover.
Owner notification began December 15, 1998. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized
dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable
time should contact Chevrolet at 1-800-222-1020 or GMC at 1-800-462-8782. Also contact the
National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT
(1-888-327-4236).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiper Control Module: >
83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester
Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 83-90-12
Date: August, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43241 Remote Keyless Entry and Passive Keyless Entry Transmitter
Tester
Models:
1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Remote Keyless Entry or Passive Keyless Entry
Systems
A new essential tool, J 43241 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester, has been sent to all GM
Dealers. This tester can be used on all RKE and PKE systems, on past as well as current models.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiper Control Module: >
83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester > Page 368
Important:
Before using the tester and the diagnostic chart, the following two steps must be performed.
1. Verify that the keyless entry transmitter is the correct model for the vehicle remote system. An
incorrect model transmitter may pass this test, but may not activate the vehicle remote system. The
correct transmitter can usually be identified by part number.
2. Ensure that the transmitter is synchronized with the vehicle (if applicable). Refer to Transmitter
Synchronization in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiper Control Module: >
66-90-03 > Jun > 97 > Keyless Entry - Unintended Release of Rear Hatch
Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Keyless Entry - Unintended Release of
Rear Hatch
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 66-90-03
Date: June, 1997
Subject: Unintended Release of Rear Hatch (Replace Transmitter Cover)
Models: 1994-96
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G Models
1994 Oldsmobile Bravada
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
Condition
An owner may report that the Rear Hatch Releases without their being aware of it.
Cause
The Keyless Entry Transmitter Button is unintentionally bumped activating the hatch release.
Correction
Replace the Keyless Entry Transmitter Cover. The revised cover has a deeper recess around the
release button making it less prone to inadvertent bumping.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
15740707 Bezel, Transmitter Cover 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
R4490 Control Assembly 0.3 hr
Cover - Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Relays and Modules > Relays and Modules - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper Control
Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiper Control Module: >
83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester > Page 378
Important:
Before using the tester and the diagnostic chart, the following two steps must be performed.
1. Verify that the keyless entry transmitter is the correct model for the vehicle remote system. An
incorrect model transmitter may pass this test, but may not activate the vehicle remote system. The
correct transmitter can usually be identified by part number.
2. Ensure that the transmitter is synchronized with the vehicle (if applicable). Refer to Transmitter
Synchronization in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Door Lock Switch
Front Door Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Door Lock
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Door Lock Switch > Page 389
Power Door Lock Switch: Locations Door Lock Switch, Right Front
On LH Door Trim Panel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Mirror Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Power Mirror Switch: Locations
On LH Door Trim Panel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Seat Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Forward/Rearward Up and Down Switch
Power Seat Switch: Locations Forward/Rearward Up and Down Switch
LH rear top of Engine, above Valve Cover
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Seat Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Forward/Rearward Up and Down Switch > Page 397
Power Seat Switch: Locations Power Lumbar Seat Switch
LH Front
front Under Passenger's Seat
RH Front
front Under Passenger's Seat
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Power Seat Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Forward/Rearward Up and Down Switch > Page 398
Power Seat Switch: Locations Tilt Switch, Front
On Seat
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Luggage Compartment Latch Switch
Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Locations Luggage Compartment Latch Switch
LH side of I/P
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Body and Frame > Trunk / Liftgate Switch
> Component Information > Locations > Luggage Compartment Latch Switch > Page 403
Trunk / Liftgate Switch: Locations Rear Glass Release Switch
LH side of I/P
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Fluid
Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations
Behind I/P Compartment Box on HVAC Plenum
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair
Braking Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Stop Lamp Switch
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR. 3. Retainer from brake pedal pin. Use snap ring pliers. 4.
Switch by unsnapping from pushrod. 5. Electrical connector from switch.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connector into switch. 2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod. 3. Retainer onto brake
pedal pin. Use 11mm (7/16 inch) socket to push new clip on pin. 4. Negative battery cable. 5.
Enable SIR.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 >
Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: Customer Interest Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 >
Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 419
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 02-05-25-006B >
Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS
Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 02-05-25-006B >
Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 425
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty
When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 431
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-05 > Sep > 97 > Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 441
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 446
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
2WD Sensor Resistance 1575 to 2420 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
1980 to 2800 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2250 to 3280 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
2750 to 3850 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
4WD Sensor Resistance 1900 to 2950 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
2420 to 3450 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2610 to 4100 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
3320 to 4760 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations LH
front At LH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH > Page 449
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations RH
front At RH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly. 2. Disconnect brake caliper
assembly and position aside. 3. Remove hub and rotor assembly. 4. Disconnect wheel sensor
electrical connector. 5. Remove sensor wire form upper control arm clip. 6. Remove sensor and
splash shield assembly attaching bolts, then remove sensor. 7. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Wheel
Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 452
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 58 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove brake drum.
3. Remove primary brake shoe.
4. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove sensor wire from rear axle clip.
6. Remove speed sensor attaching bolts, Fig. 58, then remove sensor by pulling wire through hole
in backing plate.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Torque speed sensor attaching bolts to 26 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > A/C Pressure
Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan > Component Information > Locations
A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan: Locations
Front of Engine Compartment, on Condenser Manifold Tubing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 461
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 464
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 465
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 466
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 467
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 468
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 469
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System > Engine - Coolant
Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 470
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 484
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 485
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 486
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 487
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 488
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 489
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 490
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 491
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 492
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 493
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 494
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 495
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 496
ECT Sensor Circuit
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Page 497
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Specifications
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Page 498
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
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Page 499
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Temperature Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Engine Side, LH
LH cylinder head, near number one spark plug.
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Control) > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Wiring, LH Side
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Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Brake Switch (Cruise
Control) > Component Information > Description and Operation > Electric Brake Release Switch
Brake Switch (Cruise Control): Description and Operation Electric Brake Release Switch
The brake pedal is equipped with two switches: a combination stop light/cruise control/TCC switch
and a plunger type release switch. Each switch disengages the cruise control system when the
brake pedal is depressed. When the brake pedal is released, the system will remain disengaged.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Locations
Clutch Switch: Locations
At the top of the Clutch Pedal.
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Clutch Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Clutch Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Clutch Switch, Cruise
Control > Component Information > Description and Operation > Electric Clutch Release Switch
Clutch Switch: Description and Operation Electric Clutch Release Switch
Fig. 3 Electric clutch release switch
On models equipped with manual transmission, a plunger type clutch switch, Fig. 3, is used in
series with the two brake switches. The switch disengages the cruise control system when the
clutch pedal is depressed. When the clutch pedal is released, the system will remain disengaged.
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Component Information > Locations
Cruise Control Switch: Locations
Steering Column Wiring
At the turn signal lever.
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Cruise Control Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Cruise Control Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Cruise Control Switch: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect battery ground cable.
Fig. 38 Cruise Control Switch Replacement.
2. Remove cruise control switch protector cover, Fig. 38. 3. Disconnect switch electrical connector,
then remove the switch and cruise control wire. 4. Reverse procedure to install.
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Sensor/Transducer - Cruise Control > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Wiring, RH Side
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Vehicle Speed Sensor/Transducer - Cruise Control: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor/Transducer - Cruise Control: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Vehicle Speed
Sensor/Transducer - Cruise Control > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
655
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Cruise Control > Vehicle Speed
Sensor/Transducer - Cruise Control > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page
656
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 665
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 666
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 667
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Auxiliary Heater Control Switch, Rear
Air Conditioning Switch: Locations Auxiliary Heater Control Switch, Rear
I/P, Right of Steering Column
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Auxiliary Heater Control Switch, Rear > Page 673
Air Conditioning Switch: Locations Rear Auxiliary Heater Control Switch
in Headliner
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Auxiliary Heater Control Switch, Rear > Page 674
Air Conditioning Switch: Locations Rear Auxiliary Heater/A/C Fan Switch
in Headliner
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Heater and A/C Control Switch
Air Conditioning Switch: Diagrams Heater and A/C Control Switch
C1: Heater And A/C Control Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Heater and A/C Control Switch > Page 677
C3: Heater And A/C Control Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Heater and A/C Control Switch > Page 678
C300: Rear Body HARN To AUX. A/C Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Air Conditioning Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Heater and A/C Control Switch > Page 679
C401: Rear Body HARN To AUX A/C Switch HARN
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Aux Fan Control Switch
C227: TCC/Stop Lamp Switch Jumper, AUX Fan Control Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Aux Fan Control Switch > Page 684
Blower Motor Switch: Locations Fan Switch, Front
At heater control.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Aux Fan Control Switch > Page 685
Cargo Lamp Switch Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Page 686
C2: Heater Blower Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair With Air Conditioning
Control Assembly
Remove or Disconnect
1. Instrument cluster trim. 2. Control assembly.
- Release the retainers using a small screwdriver, then pull the control assembly out from the
instrument panel.
3. Electrical connectors, as necessary.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connectors, as necessary. 2. Control assembly.
- The control assembly snap-fits to the instrument panel.
3. Instrument cluster trim.
Check circuit operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Blower Motor Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning > Page 689
Blower Motor Switch: Service and Repair W/O Air Conditioning
Control Assembly Replacment
Remove or Disconnect
1. Instrument cluster trim plate. 2. Control assembly by releasing the snap-fit retainers with a small
screwdriver. 3. Electrical connection. 4. Cables from the control assembly by releasing retainers. 5.
Blower switch. Remove the blower switch rotary knob and the retaining clip from the shaft of the
blower switch.
Install or Connect
1. Blower switch.
A. Hold the blower switch in position and install the retaining clip. B. Install the blower switch rotary
knob.
2. Cables to the control assembly. 3. Electrical connection. 4. Control assembly to the instrument
panel by snapping in. 5. Instrument cluster trim plate.
Check circuit operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - HVAC > Refrigerant Pressure Sensor /
Switch, HVAC > A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan > Component Information > Locations
A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan: Locations
Front of Engine Compartment, on Condenser Manifold Tubing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Dimmer Switch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
Dimmer Switch: Technical Service Bulletins IP Dimmer Control - Proper Setting
File In Section: 08 - Body and Accessories
Bulletin No.: 99-08-42-009
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Proper Setting of I/P Dimmer Control to View PRNDL Display with Automatic Headlamp
Control
Models: 2000 and Prior All Passenger Cars and Trucks With Automatic Headlamp Control and
Electronic PRNDL Display
Under certain conditions, if the instrument panel dimmer control is turned relatively low, the PRNDL
will not be visible until the automatic headlamp control turns the headlamps off and the daytime
running lamps (DRL) are turned back on. Such a condition may be if the vehicle is first started in an
environment where the headlamp control turns on the headlamps and then the vehicle is driven out
into a brighter environment (for example, when a vehicle is backed out of a dark garage into the
bright sunlight).
This condition is normal and any repair attempt will not be successful. Demonstrate this condition
to the customer using the service lane and then turn the instrument panel dimmer control to a
higher setting. This will enable the driver to see the PRNDL display
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch
Door Switch: Locations Cargo Door Jamb Switch
On RH rear Cargo Door
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 703
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, Cargo
Upper RH Body Opening incorporated in Cargo Door Contractor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 704
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, LH
Front At LH end of I/P
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 705
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Center of LH "B" Pillar
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 706
Door Switch: Locations
Cargo Door Jamb Switch
On RH rear Cargo Door
Door Jamb Switch, Cargo
Upper RH Body Opening incorporated in Cargo Door Contractor
Door Jamb Switch, LH
Front At LH end of I/P
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Center of LH "B" Pillar
Rear Door Jamb Switch Wiring
Door Jamb Switch, RH
Front At RH end of I/P
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
Center of RH "B" Pillar
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98
> Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: Customer Interest Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98
> Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 715
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-05 > Sep > 97 >
Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: Customer Interest Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A
> Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty
When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A
> Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 725
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-05 >
Sep > 97 > Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 730
Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations
In rear Fuel Tank
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Fuel Gauge Sender >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 731
Fuel Gage Sender (Auxiliary Fuel Tank)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Instrument Panel > Key Reminder Switch
> Component Information > Locations
Key Reminder Switch: Locations
In Steering Column
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Backup Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Backup Lamp Switch: Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Brake Light Switch: Locations
This article has been updated with Bulletin No.: 76-81-06.
TCC/STOPLAMP SWITCH
The TCC/Stoplamp Switch at top of Brake Pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Light Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 744
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 745
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 746
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 747
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 748
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Brake Light Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 749
Brake Light Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Brake Light Switch: Electrical Diagrams
Antilock Brakes
Four Wheel Antilock Brakes (4WAL)
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Fig. 25 Four Wheel Anti-Lock Brake Wiring Circuit.
Four wheel anti-lock brake wiring circuit.
Additional Wiring Diagrams
For additional Lighting and Horns wiring diagrams, See: Lighting and Horns/Diagrams/Electrical
Diagrams
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Brake Switch And Solenoids
Cruise Control Wiring Circuit
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Fig. 9 Cruise Control System Wiring Circuit (Part 1 Of 2).
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Fig. 9 Cruise Control System Wiring Circuit (Part 2 Of 2).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 781
Turn And Hazard Lamps/Park And Marker Lamps (Part 1 Of 2)
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Antilock Brakes
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 783
Turn And Hazard Lamps/Park And Marker Lamps (Part 1 Of 2)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 784
Turn And Hazard Lamps/Park And Marker Lamps (Part 2 Of 2)
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Cruise Control (Part 1 Of 2)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 786
Brake Light Switch: Adjustments
Stop Lamp Switch
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR. 3. Retainer from brake pedal pin. Use snap ring pliers. 4.
Switch by unsnapping from pushrod. 5. Electrical connector from switch.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connector into switch. 2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod. 3. Retainer onto brake
pedal pin. Use 11mm (7/16 inch) socket to push new clip on pin. 4. Negative battery cable. 5.
Enable SIR.
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Brake Light Switch: Service and Repair
Stop Lamp Switch
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR. 3. Retainer from brake pedal pin. Use snap ring pliers. 4.
Switch by unsnapping from pushrod. 5. Electrical connector from switch.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connector into switch. 2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod. 3. Retainer onto brake
pedal pin. Use 11mm (7/16 inch) socket to push new clip on pin. 4. Negative battery cable. 5.
Enable SIR.
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> Component Information > Locations
Cargo Lamp Switch Wiring
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> Component Information > Locations > Page 791
Cargo Lamp Switch: Diagrams
C411: Cross Body HARN To Cargo Lamp HARN
C212: PWR Seat To Cross Body HARN, Body HARN To Cross Body HARN, Cargo Lamp SW
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> Component Information > Locations
Dome Lamp Switch: Locations
On center of I/P
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Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch
Door Switch: Locations Cargo Door Jamb Switch
On RH rear Cargo Door
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Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 799
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, Cargo
Upper RH Body Opening incorporated in Cargo Door Contractor
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 800
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, LH
Front At LH end of I/P
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Door Switch >
Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 801
Door Switch: Locations Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Center of LH "B" Pillar
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Locations > Cargo Door Jamb Switch > Page 802
Door Switch: Locations
Cargo Door Jamb Switch
On RH rear Cargo Door
Door Jamb Switch, Cargo
Upper RH Body Opening incorporated in Cargo Door Contractor
Door Jamb Switch, LH
Front At LH end of I/P
Door Jamb Switch, LH Rear
Center of LH "B" Pillar
Rear Door Jamb Switch Wiring
Door Jamb Switch, RH
Front At RH end of I/P
Door Jamb Switch, RH Rear
Center of RH "B" Pillar
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations
Cargo Lamp Switch Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Fog/Driving Lamp
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 806
Fog Lamp Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Dimmer
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Headlamp Dimmer Switch: Component Locations
Part of the multifunction switch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Dimmer
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 811
Instrument Panel Wiring, LH Side
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Headlamp Dimmer
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 812
Headlamp Dimmer Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch >
Component Information > Locations
Horn Switch: Locations
Top of Steering Column under Steering Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Horn Contact Replacement (Plunger Switch)
Horn Switch: Service and Repair Horn Contact Replacement (Plunger Switch)
REMOVAL
Remove or disconnect the following: 1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable the SIR system. See:
Body and Frame/Interior Moulding / Trim/Dash Board / Instrument Panel/Air Bag(s) Arming and
Disarming/Service
and Repair
3. Inflator module. See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Air Bag/Service and Repair 4. Horn
contact from steering column. See:
INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that
require thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use
supplemental coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion Inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or
fastener joint interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint
clamping force, and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct
tightening sequence and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to
parts and systems.
Install or connect the following: 1. Horn contact into steering column. See: 2. Inflator module to the
steering wheel. See: Restraint Systems/Air Bag Systems/Air Bag/Service and Repair 3. Negative
battery cable. 4. Enable the SIR system. See: Body and Frame/Interior Moulding / Trim/Dash
Board / Instrument Panel/Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming/Service
and Repair
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Horn Switch >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Horn Contact Replacement (Plunger Switch) > Page 818
Horn Switch: Service and Repair Horn Pad Assembly Replacement
REMOVAL
Remove or disconnect the following: 1. Negative battery cable. 2. Pull four corners of horn pad
from steering wheel. 3. Ground wire. 4. Horn wire assembly.
INSTALLATION
Install or connect the following: 1. Horn wire assembly. 2. Ground wire. 3. Push horn pad assembly
on steering wheel. 4. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > C266 Harness Connector
C266: I/P Harness To Steering Column Harness
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > C266 Harness Connector > Page 823
Turn Signal Switch: Diagrams C266 Pinout Description
C266: I/P Harness To Steering Column Harness (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Lighting and Horns > Turn Signal Switch >
Component Information > Diagrams > C266 Harness Connector > Page 824
C266: I/P Harness To Steering Column Harness (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 831
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 832
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 833
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 834
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 835
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 836
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 837
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 838
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 839
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 840
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 841
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow System
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
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Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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Engine View, Rear
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Information and Instructions > Page 901
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Information and Instructions > Page 902
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Information and Instructions > Page 903
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Information and Instructions > Page 904
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Information and Instructions > Page 905
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information and Instructions > Page 907
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 908
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Information and Instructions > Page 909
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information and Instructions > Page 910
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 911
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information and Instructions > Page 912
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
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> Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
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Information > Specifications > Page 920
Engine Side, LH
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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ECT Sensor Circuit
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 956
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 957
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 958
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 976
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 977
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 978
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 979
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 980
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 981
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP)
Diagnosis > Page 982
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 988
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 994
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 995
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 996
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 999
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1000
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1001
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1002
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1003
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1004
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Information and Instructions > Page 1019
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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1031
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
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1032
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
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1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] >
Component Information > Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1070
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1071
IAT Sensor Circuit
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine.
OPERATION
Low temperature produces a high resistance 100,000 ohms at -40° (-40°F). A high temperature
causes low resistance 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F). The VCM supplies a 5.0 volt signal to the sensor
through a resistor in the VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the
incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the
incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is used to adjust spark timing according to
incoming air density.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when engine is cold, and rise as underhood temperature increases. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
temperature and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. If the VCM detects a
malfunction in the AT sensor circuit, the following DTCs will set:
^ DTC P0112 circuit low.
^ DTC P0113 circuit high.
^ DTC P0111 circuit intermittent high.
^ DTC P0112 circuit intermittent low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1074
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
IAT Sensor And Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 2. Remove the Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor by grasping sensor, twist and pull out from air cleaner
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor. 2. Connect the electrical connector
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Knock Sensor Circuit
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
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Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Engine Side, RH
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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MAP System
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in the intake manifold
pressure. The pressure changes as a result of engine load and speed. The map sensor converts
this to a voltage output.
OPERATION
A closed throttle on engine coast down would produce a relatively low MAP output voltage. A wide
open throttle would produce a high MAP output voltage. This high output voltage is produced
because the pressure inside the manifold is the same as outside the manifold. The MAP is
inversely proportional to what is measured on a vacuum gage. The MAP sensor is used for the
following:
^ Altitude determination.
^ Ignition timing control.
^ Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) diagnostic.
^ Speed density fuel management default.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAP sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0106 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0107 circuit low.
^ DTC P0108 circuit high.
^ DTC P1106 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1107 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor
NOTE: Other than checking for loose hoses and electrical connections, the only service possible is
unit replacement, if the diagnosis shows the sensor to be faulty.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the vacuum harness assembly. 3.
Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 4. Remove the bolts or release lock tabs
and remove the sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bolts or snap sensor on bracket. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Connect the
vacuum harness. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Page 1164
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) ..........................................................................................................
...................................................... 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
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Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations
Light Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Heavy Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
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There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations
Engine View, Rear
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
C107: Engine HARN To Oxygen Sensor HARN
Oxygen Sensor RH, LH
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HO2S Circuit
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Cutaway
OPERATION
To control emissions of Hydrocarbons (HO), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen
(NOx), a three-way catalytic converter is used. The catalyst within the converter promotes a
chemical reaction which oxidizes the HO and CO present in the exhaust gas, converting them into
harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst also reduces NOx, converting it to nitrogen.
The VCM has the ability to monitor this process using the Bank 1 Sensor 2 and the Bank 2 Sensor
2 heated oxygen sensors. The Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates
the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gas entering the three way catalytic converter. The
Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates the oxygen storage capacity of
the catalyst; this in turn indicates the catalyst ability to convert exhaust gases efficiently. If the
catalyst is operating efficiently, the Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor will produce a far more active signal
than that produced by the Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor.
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The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the Bank 1
Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensors main function is catalyst monitoring, they also play a limited
role in fuel control. If a sensor output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias
voltage for an extended period of time, the VCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure
that fuel delivery is correct for catalyst monitoring.
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Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
The heated oxygen sensor circuit, if open, should set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0134 and
the Scan tool will display a constant voltage between 350-550 mV. A constant voltage below 250
mV in the sensor circuit should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 750 mV in the
circuit should set DTC P0132. DTC P0131 and DTC P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel
system problems. Refer to DTC P0131 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0132
HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0134 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1
Sensor 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing > Page 1214
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) Testing
A problem with the HO2S 2 electrical circuits should set Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0137,
P0138 or P0140, depending on the specific condition. If the catalyst is functioning correctly, the
HO2S 2 signal will be far less active than that produced by HO2S 1. If a problem exists which
causes the VCM to detect excessive HO2S 2 activity outside of an acceptable range for an
extended period of time, the VCM will set DTC P0420, indicating that the three-way catalytic
converter [prime ]s oxygen storage capacity is below a threshold considered acceptable. Refer to
DTC P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0140 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0420 TWC
System Low Efficiency Bank 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing
information. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Electrical Connector
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) and the Oxygen Sensor use a permanently
attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove this pigtail from the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Damage or the removal of the pigtail or the connector could affect the proper operation of the
sensor.
CAUTION: Take care when handling the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the
louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Also avoid using cleaning solvents of any
type. Do not drop or roughly handle the HO2S.
CAUTION: If the heated oxygen sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire
oxygen sensor assembly must be replaced. Do Not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or
terminals. In order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air
reference.
CAUTION: This clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater
wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the
air reference and degraded sensor performance. The following guidelines should be used when
servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
^ Do Not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
^ The sensor pigtail and harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside
are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause
performance problems,
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do Not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion. be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector. The engine harness
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may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no
circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being
obstructed.
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine
temperature is below 48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust
manifold or the exhaust pipe.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the electrical connector by releasing the
locking tab. 3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The
compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the
glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors
already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if
for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the
equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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Engine Side, LH
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Information and Instructions > Page 1247
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1249
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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TP Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
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Page 1260
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
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Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
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Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
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Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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5-Speed Manual Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1351
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Vehicle Speed Sensor (2WD)
DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a pulse counter type input that informs the VCM how fast the
vehicle is being driven. The VSS system uses an inductive sensor mounted in the tail housing of
the transmission and a toothed reluctor wheel on the tail shaft.
OPERATION
As the reluctor rotates, the teeth alternately interfere with the magnetic field of the sensor creating
an induced voltage pulse.
The VSS produces an AC voltage signal that increases with vehicle speed. The VCM processes
this signal and sends it to the following components:
^ Instrument Panel.
^ Cruise Control Module.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1387
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1388
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1389
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1390
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1391
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1392
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1393
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1394
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1395
Mass Air Flow System
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Information > Diagrams > Page 1396
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Information > Diagrams > Page 1397
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations >
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations >
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 1402
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
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Page 1403
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
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Page 1404
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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1408
Engine Side, LH
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1412
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 1413
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1417
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information and Instructions > Page 1418
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Information and Instructions > Page 1432
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Information and Instructions > Page 1435
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1438
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1441
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1443
TP Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor > Page 1447
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
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Page 1448
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1456
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1457
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1458
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Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1460
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine
Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1461
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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1462
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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1463
Engine View, Rear
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Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 1467
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 1494
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1495
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1496
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1497
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1498
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 1501
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1519
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1520
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1521
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1522
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1523
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1524
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1525
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1531
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1532
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1533
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1534
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1535
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1536
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 1537
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
1538
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
1539
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1542
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1543
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 1544
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Instructions > Page 1560
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Instructions > Page 1561
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1575
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1576
1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Hall Effect Sensor, Ignition > Component Information > Description and Operation
Hall Effect Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1589
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1590
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1591
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05 > Customer Interest for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05 > Customer Interest for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1601
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05 > Customer Interest for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1602
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-002A > Apr > 05 > Customer Interest for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1603
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 >
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 >
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1614
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 >
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1615
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 >
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1616
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1622
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1623
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1624
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 00-08-46-003B > Feb > 05 > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1625
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
The procedure has been updated by TSB# 73-01-09
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > Page 1626
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When performing service on or around SIR components or SIR wiring, follow the
procedures listed below to temporarily disable the SIR system. Failure to follow procedures could
result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
The DERM can maintain sufficient voltage to cause a deployment for up to 2 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned "OFF," the battery is disconnected, or the fuse powering the DERM is
removed.
Many of the service procedures require removal of the "AIR BAG" fuse, and disconnection of the
inflator module from the deployment loop to avoid an accidental deployment. If the inflator module
is disconnected from the deployment loop as noted in the "Disabling the SIR System" procedure
that follows, service can begin immediately without waiting for the 2 minute time period to expire.
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> Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
Fig. 1 Air Bag Two-way Connector
DRIVER SIDE
Many service procedures require the air bag system to be disabled to prevent accidental
deployment. The air bag system can maintain sufficient voltage to cause deployment for up to 2
minutes after the ignition switch is turned off, the battery ground cable is disconnected or the
DERM fuse is removed. If the inflator module is disconnected from the deployment loop by the
following procedure, service can begin immediately without waiting for the 2 minute time period to
elapse.
1. Turn steering wheel so that vehicle wheels are pointed straight ahead. 2. Turn ignition switch to
Lock position and remove key. 3. Remove air bag fuse from fuse block. 4. Remove steering column
filler panel. 5. Remove Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and disconnect yellow two-way
connector at base of steering column, Fig. 1.
PASSENGER SIDE
1. Remove air bag fuse from fuse block.
Enabling the SIR System
Driver Side
1. Turn ignition switch to LOCK and remove key. 2. Connect yellow two-way connector and install
connector position assurance (CPA). 3. Install steering column filler panel. 4. Insert air bag fuse
into fuse block. 5. Turn ignition switch to RUN and verify that the air bag warning lamp flashes
seven times then turns off.
Passenger Side
1. Turn ignition switch to LOCK and remove key. 2. Insert air bag fuse into fuse block. 3. Turn
ignition switch to RUN and verify that the air bag warning lamp flashes seven times then turns off.
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> Service and Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 1630
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When performing service on or around SIR components or SIR wiring, follow the
procedures listed below to temporarily disable the SIR system. Failure to follow procedures could
result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
The DERM can maintain sufficient voltage to cause a deployment for up to 2 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned "OFF," the battery is disconnected, or the fuse powering the DERM is
removed.
Many of the service procedures require removal of the "AIR BAG" fuse, and disconnection of the
inflator module from the deployment loop to avoid an accidental deployment. If the inflator module
is disconnected from the deployment loop as noted in the "Disabling the SIR System" procedure
that follows, service can begin immediately without waiting for the 2 minute time period to expire.
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Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Page 1637
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Page 1638
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Page 1640
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Page 1641
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Page 1642
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Page 1643
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Page 1644
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Page 1646
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1661
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1662
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1663
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Page 1664
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1665
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1666
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Page 1667
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1668
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 1669
Knock Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1670
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
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Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1671
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Arming Sensor
Impact Sensor: Locations Arming Sensor
Inside LH Frame Rail, below Driver's Door
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Locations > Arming Sensor > Page 1677
Impact Sensor: Locations RH Front Discriminating Sensor
RH Front outside of RH Frame Rail
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Component Information > Locations > Arming Sensor > Page 1678
Impact Sensor: Locations LH Front Discriminating Sensor
Front outside of LH Frame Rail
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Page 1679
I/P HARN To Arming Sensor
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Impact Sensor >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Arming Sensor
Impact Sensor: Description and Operation Arming Sensor
The arming sensor is a protective switch located in the power side of the deployment loop. It is
calibrated to close at low level speed changes. This ensures that the inflator module is connected
directly to the 36 Volt Loop Reserve (VLR) output of the DERM when either of the discriminating
sensors close.
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Impact Sensor: Description and Operation Discriminating Sensors
There are two discriminating sensors in the air bag system. They are wired in parallel on the low
(ground) side of the deployment loop. These sensors are calibrated to close with speed changes
severe enough to warrant deployment. A diagnostic resistor is connected in parallel with the switch
contacts within each of the discriminating sensors. These parallel resistors supply the ground path
for the current passing through the deployment loop during normal operation. This current flow
results in voltage drops across each component in the deployment loop. The DERM monitors these
voltage drops to detect malfunctions.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Arming Sensor
Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Arming Sensor
Prior to performing replacement procedures, disarm air bag system. Refer to, Service and Repair/
Air Bag System Disarming & Air Bag System Arming. Refer to, / Specifications/ Mechanical for
torque values when installing components. All sensors and mounting bracket bolts must be
carefully torqued to assure proper operation. Never power up the air bag system when any sensor
is not rigidly attached to the vehicle, since the sensor could be activated when not attached,
causing air bag deployment.
1. disconnect sensor electrical connector from retainer, remove Connector Position Assurance
(CPA) lock from connector, then disconnect
connector.
2. Remove sensor mounting bolts and sensor from vehicle. 3. Reverse procedure to install.
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Impact Sensor: Service and Repair Forward Discriminating Sensor
Prior to performing replacement procedures, disarm air bag system. Refer to, Service and Repair/
Air Bag System Disarming & Air Bag System Arming. Refer to, / Specifications/ Mechanical for
torque values when installing components. All sensors and mounting bracket bolts must be
carefully torqued to assure proper operation. Never power up the air bag system when any sensor
is not rigidly attached to the vehicle, since the sensor could be activated when not attached,
causing air bag deployment.
1. Disconnect sensor electrical connector from retainer, then remove connector from Connector
Position Assurance (CPA) lock and disconnect. 2. Remove sensor mounting bolts, then the sensor
from vehicle. 3. Reverse procedure to install. Ensure arrow is pointed toward front of vehicle.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Restraint Systems > Seat Occupant
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Restraints - Passenger Presence System Information
Seat Occupant Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Passenger Presence System
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-08-50-009F
Date: December 23, 2010
Subject: Information on Passenger Presence Sensing System (PPS or PSS) Concerns With
Custom Upholstery, Accessory Seat Heaters or Other Comfort Enhancing Devices
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Equipped with Passenger Presence Sensing
System
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 06-08-50-009E (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
Concerns About Safety and Alterations to the Front Passenger Seat
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE THE
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT AS RELEASED BY GM FOR THAT
VEHICLE. DO NOT ALTER THE SEAT COVERS OR SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT. ANY
ALTERATIONS TO SEAT COVERS OR GM ACCESSORIES DEFEATS THE INTENDED DESIGN
OF THE SYSTEM. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF
SUCH IMPROPER SEAT ALTERATIONS, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS INCURRED.
The front passenger seat in many GM vehicles is equipped with a passenger sensing system that
will turn off the right front passenger's frontal airbag under certain conditions, such as when an
infant or child seat is present. In some vehicles, the passenger sensing system will also turn off the
right front passenger's seat mounted side impact airbag. For the system to function properly,
sensors are used in the seat to detect the presence of a properly-seated occupant. The passenger
sensing system may not operate properly if the original seat trim is replaced (1) by non-GM covers,
upholstery or trim, or (2) by GM covers, upholstery or trim designed for a different vehicle or (3) by
GM covers, upholstery or trim that has been altered by a trim shop, or (4) if any object, such as an
aftermarket seat heater or a comfort enhancing pad or device is installed under the seat fabric or
between the occupant and the seat fabric.
Aftermarket Seat Heaters, Custom Upholstery, and Comfort Enhancing Pads or Devices
Important ON A GM VEHICLE EQUIPPED WITH A PASSENGER SENSING SYSTEM, USE ONLY
SEAT COVERS AND OTHER SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT RELEASED AS GM
ACCESSORIES FOR THAT VEHICLE. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER TYPE OF SEAT COVERS OR
SEAT-RELATED EQUIPMENT, OR GM ACCESSORIES RELEASED FOR OTHER VEHICLE
APPLICATIONS. GM WILL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY PROBLEMS CAUSED BY USE OF SUCH
IMPROPER SEAT ACCESSORIES, INCLUDING ANY WARRANTY REPAIRS MADE
NECESSARY BY SUCH USE.
Many types of aftermarket accessories are available to customers, upfitting shops, and dealers.
Some of these devices sit on top of, or are Velcro(R) strapped to the seat while others such as seat
heaters are installed under the seat fabric. Additionally, seat covers made of leather or other
materials may have different padding thickness installed that could prevent the Passenger Sensing
System from functioning properly. Never alter the vehicle seats. Never add pads or other devices to
the seat cushion, as this may interfere with the operation of the Passenger Sensing System and
either prevent proper deployment of the passenger airbag or prevent proper suppression of the
passenger air bag.
Disclaimer
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> Component Information > Locations
Seat Belt Switch Wiring
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1703
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1704
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 73-01-09 > Oct
> 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1705
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
In Underhood Fuse - Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1717
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1718
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 1719
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder >
Page 1727
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder >
Page 1728
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder >
Page 1729
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 1735
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 1736
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: Customer Interest Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove > Page 1745
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01
> Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to
Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01
> Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove > Page 1751
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-71-10 > May > 98 >
A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair
Grounding Point: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground
Repair
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-08-45-001B
Date: October 25, 2010
Subject: Information for Electrical Ground Repair - Use New Replacement Fasteners with
Conductive Finish
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year and update the Warranty
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 10-08-45-001A (Section 08 - Body and
Accessories).
Electrical Ground Repair Overview
Proper electrical system function relies on secure, stable and corrosion-free electrical ground
connections. Loose, stripped, or corroded connections increase the possibility of improper system
function and loss of module communication. These conditions may also lead to unnecessary
repairs and component replacement.
In general, electrical ground connections are accomplished using one, or a combination of the
following attachment methods:
- Welded M6 stud and nut
- Welded M6 nut and bolt
- Welded M8 nut and bolt
Determine which attachment method is used and perform the appropriate or alternative repair as
described in this bulletin.
M6 Weld Stud Replacement
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. Select a location adjacent the damaged or missing M6 ground stud having 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance behind the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in)
clearance surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
3. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
4. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is
visible.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1761
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1762
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1763
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1764
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1765
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1766
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
66-71-04 > May > 96 > A/T - 1-2 or 2-3 Slip/Flare, Launch Shudder & DTC P1870
Grounding Point: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 1-2 or 2-3 Slip/Flare, Launch Shudder & DTC
P1870
66-71-04 CHEVROLET
Issued: 05/10/96
SUBJECT: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION 1-2 AND/OR 2-3 UPSHIFT SLIP/FLARE, NO 3RD OR
4TH GEAR, LAUNCH SHUDDER, DTC P1870 (REVISE VCM WIRING)
MODELS: 1996 CHEVROLET AND GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2 AND P3 MODELS 1996
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA WITH VCM AND 4L60-E (M30) OR 4L80-E (M11) AUTOMATIC
TRANSMISSION
CONDITION: SOME OWNERS MAY COMMENT THAT THE AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION HAS
EITHER A SLIP OR FLARE ON THE 1-2 AND/OR 2-3 UPSHIFT, OR NO 3RD OR 4TH GEAR, OR
LAUNCH SHUDDER. DTC P1870 MAY ALSO BE STORED IN THE VCM.
CAUSE: A POOR INTERNAL GROUND BETWEEN THE TWO CIRCUIT BOARDS OF THE VCM
CAN CAUSE THE VCM TO COMMAND ERRATIC LINE PRESSURE AT THE PRESSURE
CONTROL SOLENOIDS (PCS).
CORRECTION: USING HARNESS JUMPER WIRE AND INSTRUCTION KIT, P/N 12167310,
REVISE THE WIRING HARNESS AT THE VCM CONNECTOR. CORRECTIONS WERE MADE
TO THE VCM BEGINNING 2/14/96. THE CORRECTED VCM'S ARE IDENTIFIED WITH SERVICE
NUMBER 16244210 ON THE VCM IDENTIFICATION LABEL.
SERVICE PROCEDURE
THE FOLLOWING IS A SUMMARY OF THE INSTRUCTIONS INCLUDED WITH THE SERVICE
KIT:
1. REMOVE THE NEGATIVE TERMINAL FROM THE BATTERY.
2. MOVE THE WIRE LOCATED AT CONNECTOR J3 (WHITE/GRAY/CLEAR), PIN 18 TO
CONNECTOR J1 (BLUE), PIN 23.
3. INSTALL THE JUMPER WIRE BETWEEN CONNECTOR J2 (RED), PIN 26 AND CONNECTOR
J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), PIN 18.
4. INSTALL THE TAG INCLUDED IN THE KIT AROUND THE VCM WIRING HARNESS. THIS
TAG NOTES THAT THE WIRING HARNESS HAS BEEN MODIFIED.
5. RECONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL.
ROAD TEST TO VERIFY THAT THE CONDITION HAS BEEN CORRECTED. IF ANY OF THE
FOLLOWING CONDITIONS ARE NOTED, THE TRANSMISSION SHOULD BE REPLACED, OR
FOR CANADIAN DEALERS, REPAIRED.
- TRANSMISSION FLUID OXIDATION OR EXCESSIVE SEDIMENT.
- TRANSMISSION SLIP OR FLARE AFTER THIS SERVICE FIX IS PERFORMED.
- DTC P1870 IS STORED ON A 4L60-E (M30).
THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE AVAILABLE FROM KENT-MOORE (1-800-345-2233) FOR USE
IN REMOVING AND RELATING THE VCM CONNECTOR.
- J41759 PUNCH: USED TO PUNCH A NEW HOLE THROUGH THE CONNECTOR SEAL.
PARTS INFORMATION
P/N DESCRIPTION QTY
12167310 HARNESS JUMPER WIRE KIT 1
PARTS ARE EXPECTED TO BE AVAILABLE ON 5/13/96 FROM GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
66-71-04 > May > 96 > A/T - 1-2 or 2-3 Slip/Flare, Launch Shudder & DTC P1870 > Page 1771
WARRANTY INFORMATION
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:
LABOR OP DESCRIPTION LABOR TIME
N6112 WIRE REPAIR USE PUBLISHED
FRONT CHASSIS LABOR OPERATION TIME
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1777
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
5. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
6. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
7. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 8. Ensure the rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement. 9.
Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable and
corrosion-free electrical ground.
10. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 11. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 12. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 13. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 14. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1778
15. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 16. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the rivet stud. 17. Select a M6
conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 18. Install the M6 conductive
nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
19. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M6 weld nut at the electrical ground location is damaged or stripped, a M7 conductive
self-threading bolt may be used to secure the ground
wire terminal.
2. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the weld nut and allow to dry. 3. Remove any loose metal particles from the damaged
or stripped weld nut with a stiff brush. 4. Select a M7 conductive self-threading bolt. Refer to the
Parts Information section of this bulletin 5. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric Lubricant GM P/N
12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M7 conductive self-threading
bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
6. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 7. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M7 conductive self-threading bolt.
8. Install the M7 conductive self-threading bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb in).
9. Verify proper system operation.
M6 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6 conductive bolt
and a M6 conductive nut may be used to secure
the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M6 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 8.5 mm (0.33 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 8.5 mm (0.33 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M6 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M6 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M6 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1779
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is accessible from both sides of the panel, a M8
conductive bolt and a M8 conductive nut may be
used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal. Refer to the Parts Information section of this
bulletin.
2. Select a location adjacent the M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind the panel
surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance surrounding
the new electrical ground site.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the surface
surrounding the ground location and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel. 5. Remove paint and primer from the
area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole until bare metal is visible. 6. Select a M8 conductive
bolt. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 7. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M8 conductive bolt.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
8. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 9. Install the electrical ground wire terminal and the M8 conductive bolt to the ground
location.
10. Select a M8 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 11. Install the
M8 conductive nut to the bolt and:
Tighten Tighten to 22 Nm (16 lb ft).
Note The repair area MUST BE properly refinished to maintain a secure, stable and corrosion-free
electrical ground.
12. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 13. Verify proper system operation.
M8 Weld Nut Alternative Repair
Caution
Use only the GM-approved replacement fasteners with conductive finish for electrical ground
repair.
1. If the M8 weld nut electrical ground location is not accessible from both sides of the panel, a M6
conductive rivet stud and a M6 conductive nut
may be used to secure the electrical ground wire terminal.
2. Select a location adjacent the damaged M8 weld nut having 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance behind
the panel surface and 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance
surrounding the M6 conductive rivet stud flange.
3. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, remove any grease from the repair site
and allow to dry.
Note Ensure 20 mm (0.79 in) clearance is maintained behind the panel to be drilled.
4. Drill a 10 mm (0.40 in) diameter hole through the panel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1780
5. Remove paint and primer from the area surrounding the 10 mm (0.40 in) until bare metal is
visible.
Important The M6 conductive rivet stud as shown, can accommodate a panel thickness range of
0.7-4.2 mm (0.03-0.17 in). If there are layers of sheet metal, they should be touching without any
air gaps to ensure a good ground.
6. Select a M6 conductive rivet stud. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin.
Note Use the GE-50317 rivet stud tool kit.
7. Place the M6 conductive rivet stud (1) in the 10 mm (0.40 in) hole. Assemble the rivet stud tool
(2) with the groove and flare side facing the rivet
stud, then the washer and the M6 nut (3).
8. Using a wrench on the rivet stud tool, and a socket on the M6 nut, secure the M6 conductive
rivet stud. 9. Ensure the new rivet stud is securely fastened, WITHOUT ANY detectable movement.
10. Completely wrap the threads of the rivet stud with painters tape or equivalent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1781
Note The rivet stud and surrounding panel area MUST BE properly refinished PRIOR to the
installation of the electrical ground wire terminal and conductive nut to maintain a secure, stable
and corrosion-free electrical ground.
11. Refinish the repair area using an anti-corrosion primer. Refer to Anti-Corrosion Treatment and
Repair in SI. 12. Allow the refinished repair area to cure sufficiently before removing the protective
material applied to the rivet stud threads. 13. Remove the painters tape or equivalent from the rivet
stud threads. 14. Using GM approved residue-free solvent or equivalent, thoroughly clean the rivet
stud threads to remove any adhesive and allow to dry. 15. Using a small brush, apply Dielectric
Lubricant GM P/N 12377900 (Canadian P/N 10953529) to the threads of the M6 conductive rivet
stud.
Note Fretting corrosion is a build-up of insulating, oxidized wear debris that can form when there is
a small motion between electrical contacts. The oxidized wear debris can accumulate at the
electrical contact points causing the electrical resistance across the connection to increase.
16. Carefully remove ANY corrosion or contamination that may be present on the electrical ground
wire terminal. 17. Install the electrical ground wire terminal to the M6 conductive rivet stud. 18.
Select a M6 conductive nut. Refer to the Parts Information section of this bulletin. 19. Install the M6
conductive nut to the rivet stud and:
Tighten Tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in)
20. Verify proper system operation.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
10-08-45-001B > Oct > 10 > Electrical - Information For Electrical Ground Repair > Page 1782
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
66-71-04 > May > 96 > A/T - 1-2 or 2-3 Slip/Flare, Launch Shudder & DTC P1870 > Page 1787
WARRANTY INFORMATION
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE:
LABOR OP DESCRIPTION LABOR TIME
N6112 WIRE REPAIR USE PUBLISHED
FRONT CHASSIS LABOR OPERATION TIME
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Locations > With 4L60-E Transmission
Electronic 4-speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Switch > Component Information > Locations > With 4L60-E Transmission > Page 1790
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1793
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1794
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1795
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1796
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1797
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1802
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1807
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1809
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1810
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1812
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1814
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1817
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1819
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1823
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 1824
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral
Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 1833
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral
Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 1834
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1837
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1838
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 1839
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 1840
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1841
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Information and Instructions > Page 1842
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1843
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Information and Instructions > Page 1846
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1863
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1864
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1865
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1866
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1867
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1868
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1869
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1870
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 1871
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1872
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1873
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1874
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1876
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 1877
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed
Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors
and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed
Sensor, 4L80E > Page 1882
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Heated Glass
Element Switch > Component Information > Locations
Heated Glass Element Switch: Locations
LH side of I/P
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Lockout Switch > Component Information > Locations
Front Door Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Power Window Switch, RH Front
Power Window Switch: Locations Power Window Switch, RH Front
Power Window Switches
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Power Window Switch, RH Front > Page 1894
Rear Door Wiring
On Door Trim Panel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Power Window Switch, RH Front > Page 1895
Power Window Switch: Locations Power Windows and Door Lock Switch, Passenger Side
On LH Door Trim Panel
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Power Window Switch, RH Front > Page 1896
Power Window Switch: Locations RH/LH
Power Window Switches
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Power Window Switch, RH Front > Page 1897
Rear Door Wiring
On Door Trim Panel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LH Door Master Power Window Switch
LH Door Master Power Window Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Windows and Glass > Power Window
Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LH Door Master Power Window Switch > Page 1900
Power Window Switch: Diagrams Power Window and Door Lock Switch
Power Window And Door Lock Switch, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > LH Door Master Power Window Switch > Page 1901
Power Window And Door Lock Switch, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield
Washer Switch > Component Information > Locations
Windshield Washer Switch: Locations
At Steering Column, part of Turn Signal Lever
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Windshield
Washer Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1906
Windshield Washer Switch: Diagrams
C230: I/P HARN To HVAC HARN, Rear Window Wiper Washer SW
Rear Window Wiper/Washer Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Rear Window Wiper & Washer Switch
Cargo Lamp Switch Wiring
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Rear Window Wiper & Washer Switch > Page 1911
Wiper Switch: Locations Windshield Wiper/Washer Switch
At Steering Column, part of Turn Signal Lever
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Sensors and Switches > Sensors and Switches - Wiper and Washer Systems > Wiper
Switch > Component Information > Locations > Page 1912
Wiper Switch: Diagrams
C230: I/P HARN To HVAC HARN, Rear Window Wiper Washer SW
Rear Window Wiper/Washer Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
Alignment: Technical Service Bulletins Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-07-009C
Date: December 09, 2010
Subject: Wheel Alignment Specifications, Requirements and Recommendations for GM Vehicles
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being extensively revised to provide technicians and warranty
administrators with an all inclusive guide for wheel alignments. PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF
WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT
SERVICE. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-07-009B (Section 03 - Suspension).
Purpose
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide retail, wholesale and fleet personnel with General Motors'
warranty service requirements and recommendations for customer concerns related to wheel
alignment. For your convenience, this bulletin updates and centralizes all of GM's Standard Wheel
Alignment Service Procedures, Policy Guidelines and bulletins on wheel alignment warranty
service.
Important PLEASE FAMILIARIZE YOURSELF WITH THESE UPDATES BEFORE PERFORMING
YOUR NEXT GM WHEEL ALIGNMENT SERVICE.
The following five (5) key steps are a summary of this bulletin and are REQUIRED in completing a
successful wheel alignment service.
1. Verify the vehicle is in an Original Equipment condition for curb weight, tires, wheels, suspension
and steering configurations. Vehicles
modified in any of these areas are not covered for wheel alignment warranty.
2. Review the customer concern relative to "Normal Operation" definitions. 3. Verify that vehicle is
within the "Mileage Policy" range. 4. Document wheel alignment warranty claims appropriately for
labor operations E2000 and E2020.
The following information must be documented or attached to the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
5. Use the proper wheel alignment equipment (preferred with print-out capability), process and the
appropriate calibration maintenance schedules.
Important If it is determined that a wheel alignment is necessary under warranty, use the proper
labor code for the repair. E2000 for Steering Wheel Angle and/or Front Toe set or E2020 for Wheel
Alignment Check/Adjust includes Caster, Camber and Toe set (Wheel alignment labor time for
other component repairs is to be charged to the component that causes a wheel alignment
operation.).
The following flowchart is to help summarize the information detailed in this bulletin and should be
used whenever a wheel alignment is performed.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1918
Verify Original Equipment Condition of the Vehicle
- Verify that Original Equipment Tires and Wheels or Official GM Accessory Tires and Wheels are
on the vehicle.
- Verify that aftermarket suspension "Lift" or "Lowering" Kits or other suspension alterations have
NOT been done to the vehicle.
- Check for accidental damage to the vehicle; for example, severe pothole or curb impacts, collision
damage that may have affected the wheel alignment of the vehicle; e.g., engine cradles,
suspension control arms, axles, wheels, wheel covers, tires may show evidence of damage/impact.
- Check to be sure vehicle has seen "Normal Use" rather than abuse; e.g., very aggressive driving
may show up by looking at the tires and condition of the vehicle.
- Check for other additional equipment items that may significantly affect vehicle mass such as
large tool boxes, campers, snow plow packages (without the snowplow RPO), etc., especially in
trucks and cutaway/incomplete vehicles. Significant additional mass can affect trim height and
wheel alignment of the vehicle and may necessitate a customer pay wheel alignment when placed
semi-permanently in the vehicle (Upfitter instructions are to realign the vehicle after placement of
these types of items. (This typically applies to trucks and incomplete vehicles that can be upfit with
equipment such as the above.)
Customer Concerns, "Normal Operation" Conditions and "Mileage Policy"
Possible Concerns
The following are typical conditions that may require wheel alignment warranty service:
1. Lead/Pull: defined as "at a constant highway speed on a typical straight road, the amount of
effort required at the steering wheel to maintain the
vehicle's straight heading."
Important Please evaluate for the condition with hands-on the steering wheel. Follow the "Vehicle
Leads/Pulls" diagnostic tree located in SI to determine the cause of a lead/pull concern. Lead/Pull
concerns can be due to road crown or road slope, tires, wheel alignment or even in rare
circumstances a steering gear issue. Lead/pull concerns due to road crown are considered
"Normal Operation" and are NOT a warrantable condition -- the customer should be advised that
this is "Normal Operation."
Important Some customers may comment on a "Lead/Pull" when they hold the steering wheel in a
level condition. If so, this is more likely a "steering wheel angle" concern because the customer is
"steering" the vehicle to obtain a "level" steering wheel.
2. Steering wheel angle to the left or right (counter-clockwise or clockwise, respectively): Defined
as the steering wheel angle (clocking)
deviation from "level" while maintaining a straight heading on a typical straight road.
3. Irregular or Premature tire wear: Slight to very slight "feathering" or "edge" wear on the
shoulders of tires is NOT considered unusual and
should even out with a tire rotation; if the customer is concerned about a "feathering" condition of
the tires, the customer could be advised to rotate the tires earlier than the next scheduled
mileage/maintenance interval (but no later than the next interval). Be sure to understand the
customer's driving habits as this will also heavily influence the tire wear performance; tire wear from
aggressive or abusive driving habits is NOT a warrantable condition.
Important Slight or mild feathering, cupping, edge or heel/toe wear of tire tread shoulders is
"normal" and can show up very early in a tire/vehicle service mileage; in fact, some new tires can
show evidence of feathering from the factory. These issues do NOT affect the overall performance
and tread life of the tire. Dealer personnel should always check the customer's maintenance
records to ensure that tire inflation pressure is being maintained to placard and that the tires are
being rotated (modified-X pattern) at the proper mileage intervals. Wheel alignments are NOT to be
performed for the types of "Normal" Tire Feathering shown in Figures 1-4 below.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1919
Figure 1: Full Tread View - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder/Adjacent/Center
Ribs
Figure 2: Tire Shoulder View Example 1 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear on the Shoulder
Figure 3: Tire Shoulder View Example 2 - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Figure 4: Detail Side View of Tire Shoulder Area - "NORMAL" Tire "Feathering" Wear
Important When a wheel alignment is deemed necessary for tire wear, be sure to document on the
repair order, in as much detail as possible, the severity and type of tire wear (e.g., severe center
wear or severe inside or outside shoulder wear) and the position of the tire on the vehicle (RF, LF,
LR, RR). Please note the customer's concern with the wear such as, noise, appearance, wear life,
etc. A field product report with pictures of the tire wear condition is recommended. Refer to
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-00-89-002J and #07-00-89-036C.
4. Other repairs that affect wheel alignment; e.g., certain component replacement such as
suspension control arm replacement, engine cradle
adjustment/replace, steering gear replacement, steering tie rod replace, suspension strut/shock,
steering knuckle, etc. may require a wheel alignment.
Important If other components or repairs are identified as affecting the wheel alignment, policy calls
for the wheel alignment labor time to be charged to the replaced/repaired component's labor
operation time rather than the wheel alignment labor operations.
Important Vibration type customer concerns are generally NOT due to wheel alignment except in
the rare cases; e.g., extreme diagonal wear across the tread. In general, wheel alignments are
NOT to be performed as an investigation/correction for vibration concerns.
"Normal Operation" Conditions
Vehicle Lead/Pull Due to Road Crown or Slope:
As part of "Normal Operation," vehicles will follow side-to-side or left to right road crown or slope.
Be sure to verify from the customer the types of roads they are driving as they may not recognize
the influence of road crown on vehicle lead/pull and steering wheel angle. If a vehicle requires
significant steering effort to prevent it from "climbing" the road crown there may be an issue to be
looked into further.
Important
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1920
A wheel alignment will generally NOT correct vehicles that follow the road crown since this is within
"Normal Operation."
Mileage Policy
The following mileage policy applies for E2020 and E2000 labor operations: Note
Wheel Alignment is NOT covered under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for Express and Savana
Cutaway vehicles as these vehicles require Upfitters to set the wheel alignment after completing
the vehicles.
- 0-800 km (0-500 mi): E2000/E2020 claims ONLY allowed with Call Center Authorization. Due to
the tie down during shipping, the vehicle's suspension requires some time to reach normal
operating position. For this reason, new vehicles are generally NOT to be aligned until they have
accumulated at least 800 km (500 mi). A field product report should accompany any claim within
this mileage range.
- 801-12,000 km (501-7,500 mi):
- If a vehicle came from the factory with incorrect alignment settings, any resulting off-angle
steering wheel, lead/pull characteristics or the rare occurrence of excessive tire wear would be
apparent early in the life of the vehicle. The following policy applies:
- Vehicles 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe - Escalade/ESV/EXT,
Tahoe/Suburban, Yukon/XL/Denali, Silverado/Sierra, Express/Savana, Corvette and
Colorado/Canyon: E2000/E2020 Claims: Call Center Authorization Required
- All Vehicles NOT 100% Factory Set/Measured for Caster/Camber/Toe as noted above:
E2000/E2020 Claims: Dealer Service Manager Authorization Required
- 12,001 km and beyond (7,501 miles and beyond): During this period, customers are responsible
for the wheel alignment expense or dealers may provide on a case-by case basis a one-time
customer enthusiasm claim up to 16,000 km (10,000 mi). In the event that a defective component
required the use of the subject labor operations, the identified defective component labor operation
will include the appropriate labor time for a wheel alignment as an add condition to the component
repair.
Important Only one wheel alignment labor operation claim (E2000 or E2020) may be used per VIN.
Warranty Documentation Requirements
When a wheel alignment service has been deemed necessary, the following items will need to be
clearly documented on/with the repair order:
- Customer concern in detail
- What corrected the customer concern?
- If a wheel alignment is performed:
- Consult SI for proper specifications.
- Document the "Before" AND "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings.
- Completed "Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire" (form attached to this bulletin)
1. Document the customer concern in as much detail as possible on the repair order and in the
warranty administration system. Preferred examples:
- Steering wheel is off angle in the counterclockwise direction by approximately x degrees or
clocking position.
- Vehicle lead/pulls to the right at approximately x-y mph. Vehicle will climb the road crown. Severe,
Moderate or Slight.
- RF and LF tires are wearing on the outside shoulders with severe feathering.
Important In the event of a lead/pull or steering wheel angle concern, please note the direction of
lead/pull (left or right) or direction of steering wheel angle (clockwise or counterclockwise) on the
repair order and within the warranty claim verbatim.
Important In the event of a tire wear concern, please note the position on the vehicle and where the
wear is occurring on the tire; i.e., the RF tire is wearing on the inside shoulder.
2. Document the technician's findings on cause and correction of the issue. Examples:
- Reset LF toe from 0.45 degrees to 0.10 degrees and RF toe from -0.25 degrees to 0.10 degrees
to correct the steering wheel angle from 5 degrees counterclockwise to 0 degrees.
- Reset LF camber from 0.25 degrees to -0.05 degrees to correct the cross-camber condition of
+0.30 degrees to 0.00 degrees on the vehicle.
- Front Sum toe was found to be 0.50 degrees, reset to 0.20 degrees.
3. Print-out the "Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements/settings and attach them to the
Repair Order or if print-out capability is not
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1921
available, measurements may also be clearly and legibly handwritten into the Wheel Alignment
Repair Order Questionnaire attached to this bulletin.
4. Attach the Wheel Alignment Repair Order Questionnaire below along with the print-out of
"Before" and "After" wheel alignment measurements to
the Repair Order and retain for use by GM.
Wheel Alignment Equipment and Process
Wheel alignments must be performed with a quality machine that will give accurate results when
performing checks. "External Reference" (image-based camera technology) is preferred. Please
refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-00-89-029B: General Motors Dealership Critical Equipment
Requirements and Recommendations.
Requirements:
- Computerized four wheel alignment system.
- Computer capable of printing before and after alignment reports.
- Computer capable of time and date stamp printout.
- Racking system must have jacking capability
- Racking system must be capable of level to 1.6 mm (1/16 in)
- Appropriate wheel stops and safety certification
- Built-in turn plates and slip plates
- Wheel clamps capable of attaching to 20" or larger wheels
- Racking capable of accepting any GM passenger car or light duty truck
- Operator properly trained and ASE-certified (U.S. only) in wheel alignment
Recommendations:
Racking should have front and rear jacking capability.
Equipment Maintenance and Calibration:
Alignment machines must be regularly calibrated in order to give correct information. Most
manufacturers recommend the following:
- Alignment machines with "internal reference" sensors should be checked (and calibrated, if
necessary) every six months.
- Alignment machines with "external reference" (image-based camera technology) should be
checked (and calibrated, if necessary) once a year.
- Racks must be kept level to within 1.6 mm (1/16 in).
- If any instrument that is part of the alignment machine is dropped or damaged in some way,
check the calibration immediately.
Check with the manufacturer of your specific equipment for their recommended service/calibration
schedule.
Wheel Alignment Process
When performing wheel alignment measurement and/or adjustment, the following steps should be
taken:
Preliminary Steps:
1. Verify that the vehicle has a full tank of fuel (compensate as necessary). 2. Inspect the wheels
and the tires for damage. 3. Inspect the tires for the proper inflation and irregular tire wear. 4.
Inspect the wheel bearings for excessive play. 5. Inspect all suspension and steering parts for
looseness, wear, or damage. 6. Inspect the steering wheel for excessive drag or poor return due to
stiff or rusted linkage or suspension components. 7. Inspect the vehicle trim height. 8. Compensate
for frame angle on targeted vehicles (refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI).
Satisfactory vehicle operation may occur over a wide range of alignment angles. However, if the
wheel alignment angles are not within the range of specifications, adjust the wheel alignment to the
specifications. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI. Give consideration to excess loads,
such as tool boxes, sample cases, etc. Follow the wheel alignment equipment manufacturer's
instructions.
Measure/Adjust:
Important Prior to making any adjustments to wheel alignment on a vehicle, technicians must verify
that the wheel alignment specifications loaded into their wheel alignment machine are up-to-date
by comparing these to the wheel alignment specifications for the appropriate model and model year
in SI. Using incorrect and/or outdated specifications may result in unnecessary adjustments,
irregular and/or premature tire wear and repeat customer concerns
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1922
Important When performing adjustments to vehicles requiring a 4-wheel alignment, set the rear
wheel alignment angles first in order to obtain proper front wheel alignment angles.
Perform the following steps in order to measure the front and rear alignment angles:
1. Install the alignment equipment according to the manufacturer's instructions. 2. Jounce the front
and the rear bumpers 3 times prior to checking the wheel alignment. 3. Measure the alignment
angles and record the readings.
If necessary, adjust the wheel alignment to vehicle specification and record the before and after
measurements. Refer to Wheel Alignment Specifications in SI.
Important Technicians must refer to SI for the correct wheel alignment specifications. SI is the only
source of GM wheel alignment specifications that is kept up-to-date throughout the year.
Test drive vehicle to ensure proper repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1923
Frame Angle Measurement (Express / Savana Only) ........
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Steering/Suspension - Wheel Alignment Specifications > Page 1924
What corrected the customer concern and was the repair verified?
Please Explain: .............
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications
Alignment: Specifications Vehicle Ride (Trim) Height Specifications
Vehicle Ride Height Location & Specifications
"Z" HEIGHT
1. Lift front bumper of vehicle up approximately 1.5 inches. 2. Gently remove hands and allow
vehicle to settle on its own. 3. Repeat this operation twice more for a total of three times. 4.
Measure "Z" height, Fig. 1. 5. Push front bumper on vehicle down approximately 1.5 inches. 6.
Gently remove hands and allow vehicle to rise on its own. 7. Repeat this operation twice more for a
total of three times. 8. Measure "Z" height. 9. Find the average of the high and low measurements.
This is the "Z" height. "Z" height should be 3.74 inches.
"D" HEIGHT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications > Page 1927
Use the same procedure used in determining the "Z" height. "D" height should be 7.17 inches.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Specifications > Vehicle Ride (Trim)
Height Specifications > Page 1928
Alignment: Specifications Alignment Specifications
Caster, Degrees
Checking [01] .......................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 3.75 +/- 2.0 Setting [02] .............................................................
....................................................................................................................................... 3.75 +/- 1.0
Camber, Degrees
Checking [01] .......................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 0.5 +/- 1.0 Setting [02] .............................................................
......................................................................................................................................... 0.5 +/- 0.5
Toe-In, Degrees
Checking [03] .......................................................................................................................................
......................................................... 0.24 +/- 0.2 Setting [03] .............................................................
..................................................................................................................................................... 0.24
Ball Joint Wear, inches [04] .................................................................................................................
........................................................................... 0.08
Note: Caster angle must be corrected to level frame angle.
[01] Left and right side should be equal within +1.0 deg. [02] Left and right side should equal within
+0.5 deg. [03] Toe-in left and right side to be set equally per wheel and steering wheel must be held
in straight ahead position within +/-5.0 deg. [04] Refer to /Steering & Suspension/ Ball Joint
Inspection for inspection procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel
Alignment
Alignment: Service and Repair Front Wheel Alignment
Front Caster and Camber Adjustment
Vehicle Ride Height Location & Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel
Alignment > Page 1931
Caster Measures
CAMBER
1. Determine the camber from the alignment equipment. 2. Install adjustment kit No. 15538596, or
equivalent. 3. Reset camber to specifications.
CASTER
All caster specifications are given with the vehicle frame level (zero angle).
1. Position vehicle on a smooth level surface. 2. If necessary, correct "Z" height. 3. Using a bubble
protractor or inclinometer, measure frame angle,
Figs. 1 and 2.
4. Note frame angle as being up in the rear or down in the rear. 5. Determine caster angle from
alignment equipment. 6. Determine actual (corrected) caster reading, Fig. 2. 7. When measuring
caster, note the following:
a. A decrease in rear frame angle must be subtracted from a positive caster reading. b. An
increase in rear frame angle must be added to a positive caster reading. c. A decrease in rear
frame angle must be added to a negative caster reading. d. An increase in rear frame angle must
be subtracted from a negative caster reading.
8. If the caster angle is incorrect, correct the caster angle by turning the adjustment cam bolts.
Front Toe Adjustment
1. Determine toe-in from the alignment equipment. 2. Change length of both tie rod sleeves to
effect a toe change. 3. Toe-in can be increased or decreased by changing the length of the tie rod
ends. A threaded sleeve is provided for this purpose. When the tie rod
ends are mounted ahead of the steering knuckle they must be decreased in length in order to
increase toe-in. When the tie rod ends are mounted behind the steering knuckle they must be
lengthened in order to increase toe-in.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Alignment > System Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel
Alignment > Page 1932
Alignment: Service and Repair Camber & Caster Adjustment Kit Installation
Fig. 3 Upper Control Arm Removal
Fig. 4 Alignment Service Kit 15538596 Installation
As originally installed, the upper control arm cannot be adjusted for camber or caster. However, if
the camber or caster is measured and found to be out of specification, the camber and caster can
be set to proper specifications using adjustment kit 15538596, or equivalent. To install, proceed as
follows:
1. Raise and support vehicle and lower control arms, then remove nut (60), washer (61) and bolt
(62) from upper control arm bracket (44). Discard nut, washer and bolt.
2. Remove large washers (40), Figs. 3 and 4, which are welded to the upper control arm frame
brackets.
3. Remove weld beads from the upper control arm bracket. Grind area smooth.
4. Install adjusting cams (49) to bracket (44).
5. Install bolt (48) and nut (50).
6. Adjust camber and caster to specifications by rotating bolt head. Tighten nuts to specification.
See Steering and Suspension/Tires, Wheels and Alignment/Specifications/Mechanical.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure > Diagnostic
Connector - Fuel Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Specifications Controlled Idle Speed
Under 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Over 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed > System
Information > Adjustments > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Adjustments Controlled Idle Speed
NOTE: There should be no Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s displayed. The idle air control system
has been checked.
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Block the drive wheels. 3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link
Connector (DLC) connector with the tool in the open mode. 4. Start the engine. 5. Bring the engine
to the normal operating temperature. 6. Check for the correct state of the Transmission Range (TR)
switch position on the scan tool. 7. Check the specifications for controlled idle speed and Idle Air
Control (IAC) valve pintle position (counts). Refer to Idle Air Control Valve /
Service and Repair. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Idle Air Control
(IAC) Valve/Service and Repair
8. If within specifications, the idle speed is being correctly controlled by the control module. 9. If not
within specifications, refer to Driveability Symptoms. Refer to System Diagnosis for testing
information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Specifications
Air intake duct screw ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 2 Nm (18 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1948
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Service and Repair
Air Intake Duct Retainer Bolt
Air Intake Duct
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the retainer. 2. Remove the screw. 3. Remove the air intake duct
Installation Procedure
1. Install the air intake duct. 2. Install the screw.
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 Nm (18 lb. in.).
3. Install the retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1957
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 1963
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1964
Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection
The air cleaner restriction indicator is located on the intake duct between the air cleaner assembly
and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
If the area inside of the clear section is green, no air filter service is required. If the area inside the
clear section is orange and Change Air Filter appears, replace the air filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1965
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Cleaner Element Holddown
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the hold down clips. 2. Remove the air cleaner cover. 3. Remove the filter. Hold the
duct and remove the filter by pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. 4. Clean the air
cleaner housing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filter.
- Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stops of the duct.
- Install the duct and filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the
housing.
2. Install the air cleaner cover. 3. Connect the hold down clips. 4. Push the button on the top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (Clean) filter zone.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order > Component
Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Number One
Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Crankshaft Rotation
Crankshaft Rotation (Typical Crankshaft Pulley)
Crankshaft rotation is clockwise when viewed from in front of the crankshaft pulley as shown in the
generic image.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks
and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation > Page 1983
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Timing Marks
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Vehicle Control Module (VCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug Wire: Specifications
0-15 inch cable ....................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 3,000 - 10,000 ohms.
15-25 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 4,000 - 15,000 ohms.
25-35 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 6,000 - 20,000 ohms.
Longer wires should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1987
Spark Plug Wire: Locations
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
Wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when wires have been
disconnected or when replacement of the wires is necessary. Failure to route the wires properly
can lead to radio ignition noise and crossfiring of the plugs or shorting of the leads to ground
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1988
Spark Plug Wire: Service Precautions
Service Precautions
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
NOTE: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of being
fully seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the in
stalled boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core erosion
and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1989
Spark Plug Wire: Testing and Inspection
VISUAL INSPECTION
1. Inspect the routing of the wires. Improper routing can cause crossfiring. 2. Inspect each wire for
any signs of cracks or splits in the wire. 3. Inspect each boot for signs of tears, piercing, arc
through, or carbon tracking. If the boot needs to be replaced, twist it a half-turn in either direction
to break the seal before pulling on the boot to remove the wire.
SPARK PLUG WIRE RESISTANCE TEST
1. Disconnect both ends of each wire. Make sure the wire terminals are clean. 2. Set ohmmeter on
the high scale and connect it to each end of the wire being tested. Twist the wire gently while
watching ohmmeter. 3. If ohmmeter reads above 30,000 ohms (no matter how long the wire is), or
fluctuates from infinity any value, replace the wire. 4. If the resistance of any wire is not within the
following ranges, replace the wire being tested.
- 0 to 381 mm (0 to 15 in.) wire - 3,000 to 10,000 ohms.
- 381 mm to 635 mm (15 in. to 25 in.) wire - 4,000 to 15,000 ohms.
- 635 mm to 889 mm (25 in. to 35 in.) wire - 6,000 to 20,000 ohms.
- Longer wire - should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1990
Spark Plug Wire: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
SERVICE CAUTIONS
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition
Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 1991
WARNING: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of
being seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the
installed boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core
erosion and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the
engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT
Spark plug wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when spark plug
wires have been disconnected or when replacement of the spark plug wires is necessary. Failure to
route the spark plug wires properly can lead to radio noise and crossfiring of the spark plugs, or
shorting of the leads to ground. The correct routing is shown in the images.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
CHEVROLET 71-65-40
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTION 6E - REVISED ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND
OPERATION
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTION 6E - ENGINE CONTROLS REVISED
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODELS: 1995-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, GMT600, P MODELS 1996-97
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L ENGINE (VINS W, M, R, J - RPOS L35,
L30, L31, L29)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO INFORM TECHNICIANS OF A REVISION TO THE
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION. THE DISTRIBUTOR IS
NOW REPAIRABLE. TECHNICIANS WILL BE REFERRED TO DISTRIBUTOR OVERHAUL IN
ENGINE ELECTRICAL FOR PROPER REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF ALL COMPONENTS.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 1996
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition - Distributor Service Kits Now Available
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-64-04
Date: April, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Distributor Service Kits
Models:
1995 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Utility Models with 4.3L OBDII Engines ONLY (VIN W - RPO L35)
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada 1997 Chevrolet and GMC
C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engines (VINs W, X, M,
R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29)
Service kits are now available to field service Distributor Assemblies.
Important:
Fastening screws have pre-applied thread locking adhesive and should be discarded after removal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 1997
1995 4.3L L35 OBDII Distributor Assemblies are now serviced with 1996 Distributor Assemblies
(P/N 1104050). Installation instructions are included with each replacement assembly and must be
followed.
The following Service Kits are now available:
Important:
Removed fasteners are not to be re-used. Always use the new fasteners supplied in each kit.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 1998
Warranty Information
For Vehicles repaired under warranty use the table shown.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 1999
Distributor: Specifications
Distributor clamp and bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................. 27 N.m (20 lbs. ft.) Distributor cap screws ........................................
....................................................................................................................... 4.5-5.0 N.m (40-45 lbs.
in.)
Distributor rotor ....................................................................................................................................
................................................... 2 N.m (20 lbs. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2000
Distributor: Locations
Top of Engine, at rear, near Bulkhead
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2001
Distributor: Application and ID
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation
Distributor: Description and Operation Distributor Operation
DISTRIBUTORS
Distributor
This ignition system includes the distributor, hall effect switch, ignition coil, secondary wires, spark
plugs, knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The ignition system is controlled by the vehicle
control module (VCM). The VCM monitors information from various engine sensors, computes the
desired spark timing and controls the dwell and firing of the ignition coil via an ignition control line to
the coil driver.
The distributor connects the ignition coil and spark plugs through secondary wires. The rotor directs
the spark to the appropriate cylinder. The distributor has a hall effect switch that connects to the
VCM through the primary engine harness and provides cylinder identification information.
Identification
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Ignition Coil
The coil driver controls the current flow in the primary winding of the ignition coil when signaled by
the VCM. The interconnects are made by the primary engine harness. The ignition coil can
generate up to 35,000 volts and connects to the distributor through a secondary wire.
Secondary Wires
The secondary wires carry voltage between the ignition coil, distributor, and spark plugs. The
secondary wire connections form a tight seal that prevents voltage arching.
Hall Effect Switch
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
The crankshaft position sensor connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and
provides crank- shaft reference information to the VCM for spark and fuel delivery. The crankshaft
position sensor is located in the front cover behind the crankshaft balancer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation > Page 2004
Distributor: Description and Operation General Description
Distributor
The distributor is actually an assembly that contains the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, cap,
rotor and shaft. The distributor is splined by a helical gear to the camshaft and provides spark to
each spark plug wire. when servicing the distributor, it is critical to ensure proper cap sealing to the
distributor body and correct installation to the camshaft. If the distributor is installed a tooth off in
relation to the camshaft, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will set. The distributor is not repairable
and must be replaced as an assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2005
Distributor: Testing and Inspection
NOTICE: Discoloration of the cap and some whitish build up around the cap terminals is normal.
Yellowing of the rotor cap, darkening and some carbon build-up under the rotor segment is normal.
Replacement of the cap and rotor is not necessary unless there is a driveablity concern.
Inspect 1. Cap for cracks, tiny holes or carbon tracks between cap terminal traces. Carbon tracks
can be diagnosed by using an ohmmeter. With the cap
removed, place one base ohmmeter lead on a cap terminal. Use the other lead to probe all other
terminals and the center carbon ball. Move the base lead to the next terminal and probe all other
leads. Continue until all secondary terminals have been tested. If there are any non-infinite
readings, replace the cap.
2. Cap for excessive build up of corrosion on the terminals. Scrape them clean or replace the cap.
Some build up is normal.
3. Rotor segment. Replace the rotor if there is excessive wear on the rotor segment or the plastic
under the segment or staked post is melted. Some
looseness of the rotor segment is normal and does not cause performance problems.
4. Shaft for shaft-to-bushing looseness. Insert the shaft in the housing. If the shaft wobbles, replace
the housing assembly.
5. Housing for cracks or damage.
^ Refer to Computers and Control Systems for ignition system diagnosis. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Distributor: Adjustments Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2008
Distributor: Adjustments Timing Adjustment
NOTICE: The distributor is located in a fixed, non-adjustable position. No attempt should be made
to adjust the engine base timing by rotating the distributor. Attempting to do so may result in engine
cross-fire and mis-fire conditions.
The distributor ignition system has no provision for timing adjustment. The base timing is preset
when the engine is manufactured and no adjustment is possible.
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from its Initial position. if the intake manifold, cylinder head,
crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "procedure B"
must be followed to correctly install the distributor. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) code may
also indicate an Incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur.
Procedure B must then be used.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2009
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure A
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure A
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Spark plug and coil leads from the distributor cap. 2. Three wire hail effect switch plug from the
base of the distributor. 3. Two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 4. Distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil to note the position of the rotor segment in relation to the distributor
housing. Identify the mark with a 1. B. The distributor housing and intake manifold should also be
marked with a grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
5. Mounting clamp hold down bolt. 6. Distributor.
^ As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction, 42°. This will appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting
the position of the rotor segment, by placing a second mark on the base of the distributor, will aid in
achieving proper rotor alignment during distributor installation. Be sure to identify the second mark
on the base with the number 2.
Install or Connect
Distributor Alignment Indicator
A. If the original distributor is to be replaced, rather than repaired, remove the new distributor cap.
Using a grease pencil, place two marks on the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2010
new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.
B. When installing the distributor, align the rotor segment with the number 2 mark on the base of
the distributor. Guide the distributor into place,
making sure the grease pencil marks on the distributor housing and the intake manifold are in line.
As the the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction,
42°. ONCE THE DISTRIBUT0R IS COMPLETELY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the number 1 mark on the base. If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number 1 mark,
the gear teeth of the distributor and camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of time. To
correct this condition, remove the distributor and re-install it following the procedure at step B.
1. Distributor cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten the screws as the boss may strip. 2.
Distributor mounting clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch connector to base of the distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to
the distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly. You now must refer to procedure; B or proper distributor
installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2011
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure B
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure B
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF." ^
Bring the engine up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of cylinder number 1. Make sure it is on the
compression stroke.
A. Remove the distributor cap screws and cap to expose the rotor.
Rotor Location
B. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment
line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.
The rotor segment should point to the cap hold area as shown in the illustration.
C. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the mating drive tab in
the distributor. D. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the the spark plug towers are
perpendicular to the center line of the engine.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2012
Installed Rotor Position
E. ONCE The DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned with the
pointer cast into the distributor base. This
pointer will have a "8" cast into it, indicating the distributor is to be used in a 8 cylinder engine. if the
rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the
distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again
to achieve proper alignment.
Install or Connect
1. Cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten as the boss may strip. 2. Distributor mounting
clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch plug to base of distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to the
distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor Removal
1. Remove the ignition coil wire harness from the ignition coil and distributor cap.
2. Remove two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 3. Distributor cap. 4. Remove the
distributor clamp bolt. 5. Remove the distributor and the distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2015
6. Remove the distributor gasket and discard.
Distributor Installation
1. Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.
2. Install the distributor cap screws. 3. Install the distributor cap.
4. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2016
5. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing. 5. Ensure
that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
7. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil
pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary. 8. Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing
toward the front of the engine. 9. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2017
10. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer
that is cast into the distributor base. 11. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few
degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft
may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct
part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
12. Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2018
13. Install the distributor cap onto the distributor. 14. Install the NEW distributor cap screws. Do not
overtighten the NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten the distributor cap screws to 2.4 Nm (21 in.
lbs.).
15. Install the ignition coil wire harness.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2019
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Disassembly and Assembly
Distributor Components
NOTICE: The distributor driven gear can be installed in two positions. Make sure when installing
the gear that the dimple found below the roll pin hole in the gear is on the same side as the rotor
segment. The dimple will not align directly with the rotor segment if not, the gear is Installed 180°
off and a no start condition may occur. Premature wear and damage may result.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two screws holding the cap to the housing. 2. Cap from the housing. 3. Two screws from the
rotor.
Vane Wheel In Distributor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2020
4. Rotor.
^ Note which locating holes (B) the rotor was removed from.
5. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. 6. Hall effect switch.
^ The square cut hole (C) in the vane wheel must be aligned with the hall effect switch in order to
remove the switch.
7. Roil pin from the shaft.
A. Note the dimple located below the roil pin hole on the one side of the gear. The dimple will be
used to properly orient the gear on the shaft
during assembly.
8. Driven gear, washer, and tang washer. 9. Shaft.
^ If the shaft can't be removed from the distributor housing due to varnish buildup, use a cloth
dampened with varnish remover to clean the shaft.
NOTICE: Failure to keep cleaning agents away from the hall effect switch may result in premature
failure.
Install or Connect
1. Hall effect switch. 2. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. Do not overtighten as the base
may strip.
3. Shaft. 4. Tang washer, washer, and driven gear.
^ When the driven gear is properly installed the dimple located below the roll pin hole, in the driven
gear, will be on the same side as the rotor segment when the rotor is installed in the distributor. If
the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be on the opposite of the rotor segment.
5. Roll pin. 6. Rotor.
^ "A" shows the mounting holes. "B" shows the locating holes.
7. Two screws holding rotor.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2.0 Nm (20 lbs. In.)
Installation of the distributor into the engine will require the distributor cap off of the assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2021
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Alignment/Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2022
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from the original position. If the intake manifold, cylinder
head, crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "Procedure
B" must be followed in order to correctly install the distributor. A DTC code may also indicate an
incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur. Procedure B must then
be used.
1. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the spark plug and the ignition coil wires from
distributor cap. 3. Remove the three-wire hall effect switch connector from the base of the
distributor. 4. Remove the two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing.
5. Remove the distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing.
Identify the mark with the number 1. B. Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a
grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
6. Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt. 7. Remove the distributor.
8. As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees. This will
appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting the position of the rotor segment by placing
a second mark on the base of the distributor will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the
distributor installation. Identify the second mark on the distributor housing at number 2.
Installation Procedure A
1. Remove the new distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2023
2. If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the
same location as the two marks on the original
housing.
3. When installing the distributor, align the rotor with mark made at location 2..
4. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the mounting hole in the distributor hold down base
is aligned over the mounting hole in the intake
manifold.
5. As the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction
about 42 degrees. 6. Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be
aligned with mark on the base in location number 1. If the rotor segment is
not aligned with the number 1 mark, the gear teeth of the distributor and the camshaft have
meshed one or more teeth out of time. In order to correct the condition, remove the distributor and
reinstall it.
7. Install the cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.
Tighten Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 Nm (45 lb in).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
8. Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2024
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
9. Install the three wire hall effect switch connector to the base of the distributor.
10. Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.
Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is
found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Refer to procedure B for proper distributor
installation.
Installation Procedure B
1. Rotate the number 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2.
Remove the distributor cap screws and the distributor cap to expose the rotor.
3. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white alignment line on the
lower portion of the shaft housing.
4. The rotor should point to the cap hold down mount nearest the flat side of the housing.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2025
5. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor. 6.
Guide the distributor in place, ensuring that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the
centerline of engine. 7. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the pointer cast into the distributor base. This pointer will have a 6 or
8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. If the rotor
segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor
and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order
to achieve proper alignment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark plug type ....................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-932 Spark plug gap ................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.060 inch Spark plugs (new cylinder head) ........................................................................................
........................................................................ 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) Spark plugs (used cylinder head) ...
............................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2029
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Resistor-type. tapered-seat spark plugs are used. No gasket is used on these plugs. These spark
plugs are a High Efficiency (HE) spark plug that has a fine wire electrode, nickel plated shell and a
platinum pad across from the electrode. These features give the HE spark plug long life durability.
Refer to Specifications or to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label on the fan shroud for
correct gap information. See: Specifications
CONSTRUCTION
If the spark plug shell hex is not fully engaged in the spark plug socket wrench, the socket may
cock at an angle and cause insulator cracking and/or breakage during plug installation or removal.
OPERATION
Normal or average service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, low speed, and high speed
operation with some of each making up the daily total driving. Occasional or intermittent high-speed
driving is essential to good spark plug performance. It provides increased and sustained
combustion heat that burns away any excess deposits of carbon or oxide that may have
accumulated from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go or slow-speed driving. Spark plugs are
protected by an insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material that covers the spark plug
terminal and extends downward over a portion of the plug insulation These boots prevent
flash-over with resultant missing of the engine, even though a film is allowed to accumulate on the
exposed portion of plug porcelains.
Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator. Corona discharge is a steady
blue light appearing around the insulator. just above the shell crimp It is the visible evidence of a
high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be detected only in
darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the insulator just above
the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that combustion gases have
blown out between the shell and insulator.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2030
Spark Plug Diagnosis
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 2031
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
CAUTION
^ Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the plugs from a
hot engine may cause the plug to seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads.
^ Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head or contamination of the cylinder
head threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of a new plug.
^ Do not install plugs that are either hotter or colder than the heat range specified. Using plugs of
the wrong heat range can severely damage the engine.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
CAUTION: Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn to release it. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do
not pull on the wire or the spark plug lead may be damaged.
1. Spark plug wires and boots.
^ Label the plug wires.
CAUTION: Be sure to use J 39358 or equivalent spark plug socket Failure to do so could cause
cracking of the insulator and arcing inside the plug, resulting in engine misfire.
2. Spark plugs using J 39358 or equivalent.
Inspect ^
Each spark plug for wear and gap.
^ Spark plugs should be gapped to 0.060 inch.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
CAUTION: Make sure each sparkplug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated.
Cross-threading or falling to fully seat spark plugs can cause overheating of the plugs, exhaust
blow-by, or thread damage.
1. Spark plugs.
Tighten ^
Spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) in a new cylinder head and 20 Nm (14 lb. ft.) in a used head.
2. Wire and boot assemblies. Refer to Spark Plug Wiring and Boots for precautions. See: Spark
Plug Wire/Service Precautions
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression Check > System
Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Minimum, 698 kPa (100 psi) @ 200 rpm. The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80%
of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs
removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Clearance Specifications
One turn down from zero lash.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications > Page 2039
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Arrangement
FRONT TO REAR
5.7L/V8-350 .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance > System
Information > Specifications > Page 2040
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
1. Remove rocker arm cover. 2. Crank engine until the mark on the vibration damper aligns with the
"0 mark on the timing tab and the engine is in the number one firing position.
This may be determined by placing fingers on valves of number one cylinder as the mark on the
damper comes near the " 0 mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is
in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the marks comes up to the timing tab,
the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the
number one firing position.
3. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8 and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 can
be adjusted. Even numbered cylinders are in the
right bank, odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank when viewed from the rear of the engine.
4. Back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod, then turn in the adjusting nut until all
lash is removed. This can be determined by
rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When play has been removed, turn the
adjusting nut in one full additional turn.
5. Crank engine one complete revolution until the timing tab " 0 mark and vibration damper mark
are aligned. This is the number six firing position. 6. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves
2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8 can be adjusted. 7. With valves properly adjusted,
install rocker arm cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
Drive Belt: Customer Interest Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-60-02
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Accessory Drive Belt Noise Due to Power Steering Pump Pulley Misalignment (Properly
Align Pulley)
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; G, P Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J, N - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29,
L19)
Condition
Some owners may comment on accessory drive noise.
Cause
The power steering pump pulley may be misaligned with the end of the pump shaft.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned > Page 2049
In addition to the normal service for the above condition, it is critical that the pulley is flush with the
end of the power steering pump shaft. If it is not, reference the appropriate service manual for
proper service instructions.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E836O Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics >
Page 2055
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics >
Page 2056
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 04-06-01-013 > Apr > 04 > Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-60-02
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Accessory Drive Belt Noise Due to Power Steering Pump Pulley Misalignment (Properly
Align Pulley)
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; G, P Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J, N - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29,
L19)
Condition
Some owners may comment on accessory drive noise.
Cause
The power steering pump pulley may be misaligned with the end of the pump shaft.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned >
Page 2065
In addition to the normal service for the above condition, it is critical that the pulley is flush with the
end of the power steering pump shaft. If it is not, reference the appropriate service manual for
proper service instructions.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E836O Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2071
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page
2072
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: > 04-06-01-013 > Apr > 04 > Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
2077
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Release belt tension.
^ Use a suitable breaker bar in the square hole provided in the belt tensioner to rotate tensioner
counterclockwise and release tension on all models.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the tensioner except as noted above. Also, do not allow the tensioner to
snap into the "free" position. Either of these conditions could damage the belt and/or tensioner.
2. Belt.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Install a multiple ribbed belt following the belt routings shown. The grooves in the belt must
match the grooves in the pulleys. The tensioner is spring loaded. After removing the belt, the
tensioner will return to the tension position.
1. Route belt over all of the pulleys except the belt tensioner. 2. Release belt tensioner.
^ Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar in the square hole provided in the belt tensioner to rotate tensioner
counterclockwise and release tension on all models.
3. Belt over tensioner pulley. Slowly allow tensioner to move back into installed position. 4. Check
the belt for correct "V" groove tracking into each pulley.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose >
Component Information > Specifications
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Specifications
Air intake duct screw ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 2 Nm (18 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 2083
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Service and Repair
Air Intake Duct Retainer Bolt
Air Intake Duct
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the retainer. 2. Remove the screw. 3. Remove the air intake duct
Installation Procedure
1. Install the air intake duct. 2. Install the screw.
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 Nm (18 lb. in.).
3. Install the retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 2092
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine,
A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 2098
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2099
Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection
The air cleaner restriction indicator is located on the intake duct between the air cleaner assembly
and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
If the area inside of the clear section is green, no air filter service is required. If the area inside the
clear section is orange and Change Air Filter appears, replace the air filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2100
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Cleaner Element Holddown
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the hold down clips. 2. Remove the air cleaner cover. 3. Remove the filter. Hold the
duct and remove the filter by pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. 4. Clean the air
cleaner housing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filter.
- Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stops of the duct.
- Install the duct and filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the
housing.
2. Install the air cleaner cover. 3. Connect the hold down clips. 4. Push the button on the top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (Clean) filter zone.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information >
Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter > Component Information > Description
and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
A woven plastic filter attaches to the lower end of the fuel pump in the fuel tank. The functions of
the strainer are to filter contaminants and to wick fuel. The life of the fuel pump strainer is generally
considered to be that of the fuel pump. The fuel pump strainer is self-cleaning and normally
requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point indicates that the fuel tank contains an
abnormal amount of sediment or water. In which case the fuel tank should have a thorough
cleaning. Refer to Fuel System Cleaning. If the fuel strainer is plugged, replace the strainer with a
new fuel pump strainer. See: Powertrain Management/Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Service and
Repair
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Filters > Oil Filter, Engine > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Inlet Hose
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Inlet Hose
Heater Hose Routing
Quick Connect Heater Inlet Connector
Tool Required:
J 38723 Heater Line Quick Connect Separator
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Inlet hose from generator bracket. 3. Inlet hose at fender clip. 4. Inlet hose
clamp at heater core. water shut off valve or tee fining.
- Loosen the clamp enough to slide the clamp away from the fining on the inlet hose.
5. Inlet hose from heater core. 6. Push inlet hose into connector and insert J 38723 or equivalent
into connector to release locking tabs. 7. Pull retainer and hose from heater inlet connector.
Inspect
- O-ring sealing surface on hose/pipe.
Adjust
- If replacing heater inlet connector, remove retainer from hose and discard, as new connector is
equipped with retainer.
- If replacing hose, remove retainer from hose and reinsert in connector.
- If reusing hose and connector, retainer can remain in place on hose.
Install or Connect
1. Push hose into connector until retainer tabs lock.
- Pull back on hose to check for proper engagement.
2. Inlet hose to heater core, water shut off valve or tee fitting.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Inlet Hose > Page 2117
3. Inlet hose clamp. 4. Inlet hose mounting screw. Tighten Screw to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 5. Inlet hose
to fender clip. 6. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Heater Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Heater Inlet Hose > Page 2118
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Outlet Hose
Heater Hose Routing
Quick Connect Heater Inlet Connector
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Outlet hose from fender clip. 3. Outlet hose clamp from heater core, water
shut off valve or tee fitting. 4. Outlet hose from heater core. 5. Outlet hose mounting screw. 6.
Outlet hose from generator bracket. 7. Outlet hose clamp from water pump. 8. Outlet hose from
water pump.
Install or Connect
1. Outlet hose to water pump. 2. Outlet hose clamp to water pump. 3. Outlet hose to generator
bracket. 4. Generator bracket mounting screw. Tighten screw to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 5. Outlet hose to
heater core. 6. Outlet hose clamp to heater core. 7. Outlet hose to fender clip. 8. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service Precautions
Hose/Line HVAC: Service Precautions
Proper O-Ring Installation
Improper O-Ring Installation
IMPORTANT
- Before opening the refrigeration system to the atmosphere, make sure the work area is well
ventilated. Welding or steam-cleaning operations should not be done on or near refrigeration
system lines or other air conditioning parts on the vehicle.
- All metal tubing lines should be free of dents or kinks to prevent loss of system capacity due to
line restriction.
- The flexible hose lines should never be bent to a radius of less than four times the diameter of the
hose.
- The flexible hose lines should never be allowed to come within a distance of 6.5 mm (2.5 inches)
of the exhaust manifold.
- Flexible hose lines should be inspected regularly for leaks or brittleness and replaced with new
lines if deterioration or leaking is found.
- When disconnecting any fitting in the refrigerant system, the system must be discharged of all
Refrigerant-134a. However, proceed very cautiously, regardless of the gage readings. Open very
slowly, keeping your face and hands away so that no injury can occur, If pressure is noticed when
a fitting is loosened, allow it to bleed off very slowly.
NOTICE: Alcohol should never be used In the refrigeration system In an attempt to remove
moisture. Damage to system components could occur.
- If any refrigerant line is opened to the atmosphere, it should be immediately capped to prevent the
entrance of moisture and dirt. These contaminants can cause internal compressor wear or plugged
lines in the condenser and evaporator core and expansion (orifice) tubes or compressor inlet
screens.
- Remove sealing caps from subassemblies just before making connections for final assembly. Use
a small amount of clean 525 viscosity refrigerant oil on all tube and hose joints. Use new O-ring
seals dipped in 525 viscosity refrigerant oil when assembling joints. The oil will aid in assembly and
help to provide a leakproof joint. O-ring seals and seats must be in perfect condition because a burr
or a piece of dirt can cause a refrigerant
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service Precautions
> Page 2122
leak.
- It is important to use the proper wrenches when making connections on O-ring seal fittings. The
use of improper wrenches may damage the connection. The opposing fitting should always be
backed up with a wrench to prevent distortion of connecting lines or components. When connecting
the flexible hose connections, it is important that the swaged fitting and the flare nut, as well as the
coupling to which it is attached, be held at the same time using three different wrenches to prevent
turning the fitting and damaging the seat.
- Tighten tubing connections to the specified torque.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Main Unit
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Main Unit
Evaporator Tube
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Recover refrigerant. 3. Auxiliary heater pipe, if equipped. 4. Coolant
recovery reservoir. 5. Evaporator tube from evaporator. 6. O-ring seal. 7. Evaporator tube from
condenser. 8. O-ring seal.
Install or Connect
1. Evaporator tube into clip. 2. New O-ring seal.
- Coat O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
3. Evaporator tube to condenser. Tighten Evaporator tube to 24 Nm (18 lb ft). 4. New O-ring seal.
- Coat O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
5. Evaporator tube to evaporator. Tighten Evaporator tube to 24 Nm (18 lb ft). 6. Coolant recovery
reservoir. 7. Auxiliary heater pipe, if equipped. 8. Negative battery cable. 9. Charge system.
- Check system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Hoses > Hose/Line HVAC > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Main Unit > Page 2125
Hose/Line HVAC: Service and Repair Auxiliary Unit
Auxiliary Evaporator Tube Location
Remove or Disconnect
1. Discharge and recover refrigerant from the system. 2. Evaporator tube from evaporator. 3.
O-ring seal. 4. Evaporator tube from condenser. 5. O-ring seal. 6. Evaporator tube from auxiliary
evaporator hose. 7. O-ring seal. 8. Evaporator tube.
Install or Connect
1. Evaporator tube. 2. New O-ring seal.
- Coat O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
3. Evaporator tube to auxiliary evaporator hose. Tighten evaporator tube to 24 Nm (18 lbs. ft.). 4.
New O-ring seal.
- Coat O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
5. Evaporator tube to condenser. Tighten evaporator tube to 24 Nm (18 lbs. ft.). 6. New O-ring seal.
- Coat O-ring seal with 525 viscosity refrigerant oil.
7. Evaporator tube to evaporator. Tighten evaporator tube to 24 Nm (18 lbs. ft.). 8. Refrigerant to
the system.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 2131
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Brake Fluid > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Page 2132
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2137
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2138
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2139
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2140
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Capacity, Qts.
Less A/C ..............................................................................................................................................
........................................................................ 17.5 With A/C .............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................................
20
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure, Lbs. .....................................................................................................
............................................................................... 15 Thermo. Opening Temp., deg.F .....................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 195
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Coolant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 2143
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or
Havoline DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, or an approved recycled coolant
conforming to GM Specification 6038-M (GM P/N 1052103).
CAUTION: If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km
(30,000 miles) or 24 months.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 2148
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 2149
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 2150
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
4L60-E TRANSMISSION Pan removal ...............................................................................................
................................................................................................................. 5.0 qts. Overhaul ...............
..............................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 11.0 qts.
4L80-E TRANSMISSION Pan removal ...............................................................................................
................................................................................................................. 7.7 qts. Overhaul ...............
..............................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 13.5 qts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 2153
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Fluid level should be checked at every engine oil change. Frequency of change for transmission
fluid is dependent on the type of driving conditions in which the vehicle is used. If the transmission
is subjected to severe service such as: use in heavy city traffic when the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F, use in very hilly or mountainous areas, commercial use such as taxi or
delivery service, the fluid should be changed every 15,000 miles when using Dexron II and 50,000
miles when using Dexron III or equivalent. Otherwise, change the fluid every 100,000 miles, using
Dexron II, III or equivalent automatic transmission fluid. When checking fluid, ensure vehicle is at
operating temperature (190°-200°F), which can be obtained by 15 miles of highway-type driving.
After transmission fluid is at operating temperature, use the following procedure to check fluid level:
1. Ensure vehicle is on a level surface, then move gear selector to the Park position. 2. Apply
parking brake and block wheels, then allow engine to run at idle speed for three minutes with
accessories off. 3. Check fluid level, color and condition.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E > Page 2156
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Check fluid at regular intervals. Noticing a change in color, odor or fluid level can serve as a
warning of possible transmission problems. To check fluid level, bring fluid to operating
temperature of 200°F. With vehicle on a level surface, engine idling in park and parking brake
applied, the level on the dipstick should be at the Full mark. To bring the fluid level from the Add
mark to the Full mark requires one pint of fluid. If additional fluid is required, use only Dexron II
automatic transmission fluid. When adding fluid, do not overfill, as foaming and loss of fluid through
the vent may occur as the fluid heats up. Also, If fluid level is too low, complete loss of drive may
occur especially when cold, which can cause transmission failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo
Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
The normal schedule is 30,000 miles for vehicles under 8600 lbs. GVWR OR 24,000 for vehicles
over 8600 lbs. GVWR. If vehicle is driven in heavy city traffic where outside temperature regularly
reaches 90°F or higher, in hilly or mountain terrain, is used for frequent trailer pulling or is used in
taxi, police, delivery or other commercial service, maintenance schedule for drain and refill is
15,000 miles for all vehicles under 8600 lbs. GVWR or 12,000 miles for vehicles over 8600 lbs.
GVWR. Change fluid and filter as follows:
1. Raise vehicle and position drain pan under transmission pan. 2. Remove front and side attaching
bolts from the oil pan. 3. Loosen rear attaching bolts approximately four turns. 4. Carefully pry
transmission pan loose and allow fluid to drain. 5. Remove rear attaching bolts, pan and pan
gasket. 6. Drain remaining fluid from pan, then clean pan and gasket surfaces with solvent and dry
with compressed air. 7. Remove transmission screen. Remove seal from intake pipe or case bore.
8. Replace screen if applicable, or thoroughly clean screen assembly with solvent and dry with
compressed air. 9. Install seal on intake pipe, then install screen assembly.
10. Install gasket on pan, then install pan and tighten to specifications. 11. Lower vehicle and add
approximately 9 pts. of Dexron II type transmission fluid through filler tube. 12. Start engine and let
run at idle, then with brakes applied move selector lever through each gear range. 13. Place
transmission in Park position and check fluid level.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo
Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 2159
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Changing Fluid
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Loosen two bolts attaching right side of transmission support to
frame rail. 3. Remove two bolts attaching left side transmission support to frame rail. 4. Using
suitable transmission jack, support and slightly raise transmission. 5. Slide transmission support
rearward enough to access rear oil pan attaching bolts. 6. Place drain pan under transmission oil
pan, loosen pan bolts on front of pan, pry carefully with screwdriver to loosen oil pan, and allow
fluid to
drain.
7. Remove remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan, and gasket. 8. Drain fluid from pan, then clean pan and
dry thoroughly with compressed air. 9. Remove oil filter to valve body bolt, then remove filter and
gasket, replace with new filter and gasket.
10. Install new gasket on oil pan, then oil pan and attaching bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to
specification. 11. Lower vehicle and add five quarts of automatic transmission fluid through filler
tube. 12. With selector lever in Park and parking brake applied, start engine and let idle. Do not
race engine. 13. Move selector lever through each gear range, then return lever to park. 14. Check
fluid, then add additional fluid to bring level between dimples on dipstick.
Adding Fluid to A Dry Transmission
1. Add transmission fluid through filler tube until oil level is between the "ADD" and "HOT" marks on
dipstick. 2. Place selector lever in park, depress accelerator to place carburetor on fast idle cam,
and move selector lever through each range. Do not race
engine.
3. With selector lever in park, engine running at idle (1-3 minutes), and vehicle on level surface,
check fluid level and add additional fluid to bring
level between dimples on dipstick.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
5 SPEED TRANSMISSION OIL
85 mm & 109 mm ................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 3.6 pts.
New Venture Gear 4500 ......................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 8.0 pts.
New Venture Gear 3500 ......................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 4.4 pts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - M/T > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 2164
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
New Venture Gear 3500 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid P/N 9985648
New Venture Gear 4500 Castrol Syntorq LT Transmission Fluid.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage
Fluid - Differential: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility &
Usage
File in Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-001
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility and Usage
Models: 1999 Cadillac Escalade 1988-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Van and P1-3 Series Models
Built after the VIN Breakpoints (C/K) listed.
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1999 Model Year, VIN Breakpoint information, and
additional text Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 86-42-04 (Section 4 - Driveline/Axle).
This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers about the compatibility and usage of the new Fuel
Efficient SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant, GM P/N 12378261 (In Canada use P/N 10953455),
with current axles, and with the non-synthetic axle lubricant, GM P/N 1052271 (In Canada use P/N
10950849), for the rear axles on the above light-duty trucks.
Testing has shown that the new synthetic lubricant will chemically attack the Room Temperature
Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Use only the non-synthetic lubricant, P/N 1052271, in axles using RTV
sealant (See 9.5 and 10.5 information below).
American Axle and Manufacturing (A.A.M.) has approved the use of the new Fuel Efficient SAE
75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant for rear axles with the following restrictions:
^ All 8.6 inch axles are compatible as originally built.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 2169
^ 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998 are NOT compatible because RTV
sealant is used on the cover pans.
On vehicles built after mid-February 1998 and equipped with 9.5 inch rear axles, synthetic
lubricant, P/N 12378261, can be used because the RTV was replaced with a gasket. Other
mid-February changes to the 9.5 inch rear axles include a new cover pan and cover pan fasteners
common to other axles.
Important:
The new cover pan is not retrofittable to the housing of 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to
mid-February 1998. A new retrofit kit is available that will enable the use of synthetic lubricant for
vehicles built after mid-February, 1998.
^ All 10.5 inch axles prior to March 3, 1999 are compatible if the axle shaft hub seal (RTV) is
replaced with P/N 327739 gasket when changing to synthetic lubricant.
As a product improvement, this new lubricant has been released into 1999 current production C/K
vehicles built after the above VIN breakpoints (Except HD3SOO models which use 75W-140
synthetic lubricant, P/N 12346140).
It is recommended that synthetic lubricant be used when changing rear axle lubricant for the
following reasons:
^ Potential fuel economy
^ Lower operating temperature under severe usage conditions
Important:
^ You do not need to wash/rinse any non-synthetic lubricant from the axle cavity when changing
over to a synthetic lubricant. However, you should remove debris from the magnet and the bottom
of the axle cavity whenever the axle fluid is changed.
^ On light-duty trucks equipped with locking differentials, do NOT use a limited-slip additive.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 2170
Fluid - Differential: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Recommended Axle Lubricant
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 76-02-02A
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Recommended Axle Lubricant
Models: 1999 and Prior Rear Wheel Drive Passenger Cars, Light and Medium Duty Trucks, and
Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 and 1999 Model Years and add Vehicle Line and
Recommended Axle Lubricant Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-02-02
(Section 0 - General Information).
The following tables provide the latest information on recommended axle lubricant.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 2171
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Fluid - Differential: Capacity Specifications
Chevrolet 8 1/2 inch .............................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 4.2 pts.
Chevrolet 9 1/2 inch .............................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 5.5 pts.
Dana 9 3/4 & 10 1/2 inch .....................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 5.5 pts.
Chevrolet 10 1/2 inch ...........................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 7.2 pts.
Dana 11 inch .......................................................................................................................................
........................................................................ 8.2 pts.
Rockwell 12 inch ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... 14.0 pts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Fluid - Differential > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 2174
Fluid - Differential: Fluid Type Specifications
Rear Axle - Locking Differential (G80)
This Article has been updated by TSB # 76-02-02A.
SAE 80W-90 GL5 Gear Lubricant, GM P/N 1052271. Do not use limited slip additive.
Rear Axle - Non-Locking Differential
Standard Differential (Non-Locking) SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant GM P/N 1052271
HD-3500 Dana 11.0 inch Axle SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear lubricant GM P/N 12378261
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2179
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2180
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil ............................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 4.73 Liters (5.0 Quarts)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Engine Oil > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 2183
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
GM Goodwrench motor oil or equivalent for API Service with STARBURST SYMBOL of the
recommended viscosity.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment
Bulletin No.: 08-01-38-001
Date: January 25, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Information On New GE-48800 CoolTech Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin is being issued to announce the release of GM approved Air Conditioning (A/C)
Refrigerant Recovery and Recharging Equipment that meets the new Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE) J2788 Refrigerant Recovery Standards. The ACR2000 (J-43600) cannot be
manufactured in its current state after December 2007 and will be superseded by GE-48800.
The new J2788 standard does not require that GM Dealers replace their ACR2000 units.
ACR2000's currently in use are very capable of servicing today's refrigerant systems when used
correctly and can continue to be used. Details regarding the new SAE J2788 standard are outlined
in GM Bulletin 07-01-38-004.
Effective February 1 2008, new A/C Refrigerant Recovery/Recharging equipment (P/N GE-48800)
will be released as a required replacement for the previously essential ACR2000 (J-43600). This
equipment is SAE J2788 compliant and meets GM requirements for A/C Refrigerant System
Repairs on all General Motors vehicles, including Hybrid systems with Polyolester (POE)
refrigerant oil. This equipment will not be shipped as an essential tool to GM Dealerships.
In addition, this equipment is Hybrid compliant and designed to prevent oil cross contamination
when servicing Hybrid vehicles with Electric A/C Compressors that use POE refrigerant oil.
The ACR2000 (J-43600) will need to be retrofitted with a J-43600-50 (Hose - ACR2000 Oil Flush
Loop) to be able to perform Hybrid A/C service work. All Hybrid dealers will receive the J-43600-50,
with installation instructions, as a component of the Hybrid essential tool package. Dealerships that
do not sell Hybrids, but may need to service Hybrids, can obtain J-43600-50 from SPX Kent Moore.
Refer to GM Bulletin 08-01-39-001 for the ACR2000 Hose Flush procedure.
The High Voltage (HV) electric A/C compressor used on Two Mode Hybrid vehicles uses a
Polyolester (POE) refrigerant oil instead of a Polyalkylene Glycol (PAG) synthetic refrigerant oil.
This is due to the better electrical resistance of the POE oil and its ability to provide HV isolation.
Failure to flush the hoses before adding refrigerant to a Hybrid vehicle with an electric A/C
compressor may result in an unacceptable amount of PAG oil entering the refrigerant system. It
may cause a Battery Energy Control Module Hybrid Battery Voltage System Isolation Lost
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC P1AE7) to be set. Additionally, the A/C system warranty will be
voided.
Warranty Submission Requirements
The Electronically Generated Repair Data (snapshot summary) and printer functions have been
eliminated from the GE-48800. The VGA display and temperature probes were eliminated to
reduce equipment costs. As a result, effective immediately the 18 digit "Snapshot/Charge
Summary" code is no longer required for Air Conditioning (A/C) refrigerant system repairs that are
submitted for warranty reimbursement. The charge summary data from before and after system
repairs will continue to required, but documented on the repair order only. Both high and low
pressures and the recovery and charge amounts should be noted during the repair and entered on
the repair order. If using ACR2000 (J-43600), the "Snapshot/Charge Summary" printouts should
continue to be attached to the shops copy of the repair order.
The labor codes that are affected by this requirement are D3000 through D4500.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2188
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Contaminated R134A Refrigerant
Bulletin No.: 06-01-39-007
Date: July 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Contaminated R134a Refrigerant Found on Market for Automotive Air-Conditioning
Systems
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2007 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Attention:
This bulletin should be directed to the Service Manager as well as the Parts Manager.
Commercially Available Contaminated R134a Refrigerant
Impurities have been found in new commercially available containers of R134a. High levels of
contaminates may cause decreased performance, and be detrimental to some air-conditioning
components. Accompanying these contaminates has been high levels of moisture.
Tip:
Excessive moisture may cause system concerns such as orifice tube freeze-up and reduced
performance.
Industry Reaction: New Industry Purity Standards
Due to the potential availability of these lower quality refrigerants, the Society of Automotive
Engineers (SAE), and the Air Conditioning and Refrigeration Industry (ARI) are in the process of
instituting reliable standards that will be carried on the labels of future R134a refrigerant containers.
This identifying symbol will be your assurance of a product that conforms to the minimum standard
for OEM Automotive Air-Conditioning use.
How Can You Protect Yourself Today?
It is recommended to use GM or ACDelco(R) sourced refrigerants for all A/C repair work. These
refrigerants meet General Motors own internal standards for quality and purity, insuring that your
completed repairs are as good as the way it left the factory.
Parts Information
The part numbers shown are available through GMSPO or ACDelco(R). The nearest ACDelco(R)
distributor in your area can be found by calling 1-800-223-3526 (U.S. Only).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2189
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2190
Refrigerant: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
File In Section: 01 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 99-01-38-006A
Date: May, 2000
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: J-43600 ACR 2000 Essential Refrigerant Recovery/Recharge Equipment
Models: 1993-2000 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with R-134a Refrigerant
This bulletin is being revised to change the effective date and to update the text. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 99-01-38-006 (Section 01 - HVAC).
Effective June 1, 2000, the use of J-43600 ACR 2000 will be required on all repairs that require A/C
system recovery and are reimbursable by GM. Additionally, GM highly recommends that J-43600
ACR 2000 be used on all GM cars and trucks for customer paid A/C repairs.
Important:
Also effective June 1, 2000, the "Add" time for all air conditioning recovery is revised to 0.5 hours
for front systems and 0.7 hours for front/rear dual systems (RPO C69 or C34). After June 1, 2000,
all air conditioning claims submitted with the 0.9 hours "Add" time will be rejected for "labor hours
excessive".
After the completion of repairs (charging), the ACR 2000 will prompt the user to perform a snapshot
of the air conditioning system operating data. The snapshot includes:
^ Maximum high side pressure.
^ Minimum low side pressure.
^ Duct outlet temperatures (2).
^ Refrigerant purity information.
This information is captured on a paper printout and in a warranty code.
For all GM paid repairs, the paper printout should be attached to the shop copy of the repair order.
The warranty code must be submitted in the warranty claim information in the comments field. The
code enables the reporting of valuable information about the repair to GM for product quality
improvement. Claims submitted without this information may be subject to review and subsequent
debit.
The required use of J-43600 ACR 2000 raises the question of the acceptable uses for any existing
recovery/recycle equipment that GM dealers are currently using. GM recognizes that many of the
previously essential ACR4's are reaching the end of their useful life. There are several alternatives
for existing equipment that may be considered:
^ Use the existing equipment as customer paid recovery only equipment. Example: Collision repair
area.
^ Use the existing equipment as a scavenger unit for contaminated A/C systems.
^ Sell the existing units to repair facilities outside the GM dealer network.
^ Discontinue the use of the existing units if the repair/maintenance costs exceed the value of the
equipment.
^ Donate the existing equipment to local technical schools.
^ Dedicate the ACR4 to A/C system flushing, using the J-42939 Flush Adapter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2191
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2192
Technical Service Bulletin # 631209 Date: 960501
A/C - R12 or R134a Service Recommendations
File In Section: 1 - HVAC
Bulletin No.: 63-12-09
Date: May, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Issues for Vehicles with R12 or R134a Air Conditioning Systems
Models: 1988-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks
R12 Service Recommendations
As you know, production of R12 refrigerant ceased on December 31, 1995. Although R12 will no
longer be manufactured, there is a reserve supply of R12 available. This reserve, along with strict
A/C repair service adherence to proper refrigerant recycling procedures, should assure continued
availability to meet consumers' needs.
R12 can and should continue to be used to service vehicles built with R12 A/C systems as long as
it is available. If R12 is no longer available or affordable, a system retrofit utilizing R134a is
recommended. R134a IS THE ONLY SUBSTITUTE REFRIGERANT RECOMMENDED BY GM
FOR USE IN GM VEHICLE A/C SYSTEMS, AND THEN ONLY AFTER FOLLOWING THE
PROPER RETROFIT PROCEDURES FOR THE SPECIFIC MODEL. All new vehicle
manufacturers have chosen R134a for retrofit. One of the key reasons is to protect both the service
industry and consumers from the high costs that would result from purchasing equipment
necessary to service multiple refrigerants. This position also reduces the threat of recycled
refrigerant contamination.
GM currently offers a simple, low cost R12 to R134a retrofit on many of its late model, front wheel
drive passenger cars. Dealers should discuss this capability with owners of these specific models,
listed in Retrofit Corporate Bulletin # 43-12-07D, whenever a repair to the A/C refrigerant system is
required. Early retrofit of these specific models will aid in prolonging availability of the R12 supply
and provide dealer service technicians the opportunity to become more familiar with the proper
procedures for performing a retrofit.
Remember - R12 and R134a refrigerant are not interchangeable! They cannot be mixed together.
In fact, despite the claims of some refrigerant manufacturers, no proposed R12 refrigerant
substitute can be added to, mixed with or used to "top off" an R12 system. Under provisions of law
covering the service of refrigerants, mixing dissimilar refrigerant products during service is
prohibited.
To Summarize GM R12 Service Policy
1. Service R12 vehicles with good quality new or recycled R12 as long as it is available.
2. Purchase R12 from a reliable supplier. GMSPO has a supply of high quality R12 available.
Dealers are requested to use only R12 supplied by GMSPO for warranty repairs. This high quality
refrigerant will insure system performance and avoid the possibility of introducing contaminated
material into the customer's A/C system.
3. Carefully test recovered R12 using the PureGuard monitor. On recovery equipment not
protected by the PureGuard, always test the recovery cylinder prior to recharging a vehicle A/C
system.
4. Discuss the R12 to R134a retrofit option with owners of GM vehicles listed in Retrofit Corporate
Bulletin # 43-12-07D. Provide owner with a copy of the pamphlet "Converting Your Auto Air
Conditioning System to Use the New Refrigerant".
5. Become familiar with retrofit procedures and exercise care in the handling of dissimilar
refrigerants to prevent contamination.
R134A Service Recommendations
When servicing a previously retrofitted vehicle, there is concern that if all of the R12 is not
completely removed prior to the retrofit procedure, it could contaminate your R134a equipment and
recovery tank when a subsequent A/C repair is performed. Although the number of retrofits being
performed today is minimal, the volume will increase as R12 prices rise.
GM Service Technology Group is in the process of field testing a new R134a refrigerant purity
tester similar to the PureGuard R12 refrigerant tester you now use. This new tool will mount to your
ACR4 R134a Recovery Recycle and Recharge cart and sample all R134a refrigerant prior to
recovery. It is expected that testing of this tool will be completed this year.
This new tool, the Pureguard 2, will also test vehicles and your recycle tank for air contamination,
which is threatening A/C system performance. High levels of air have been found in the recovery
tanks on a number of R12 and R134a recovery carts. Air contamination is caused by improper
recovery
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins
> A/C - Refrigerant Recovery/Recycling/Equipment > Page 2193
procedures and short-cutting refrigerant recycling times. Use the following procedure for testing
and correcting air contamination in your A/C service equipment.
1. Make certain that the ACR4 equipment has not been used for at least 12 hours. It is
recommended that the equipment be left in an area where the temperature will remain constant
overnight to allow the temperature of the refrigerant in the tank to stabilize.
2. Record the surrounding air temperature next to the ACR4 refrigerant tank.
Important:
A major assumption is that the ambient air temperature next to the tank represents the refrigerant
temperature in the tank. Failure to take care in measuring the temperature could result in
unnecessary work.
3. Close both liquid (blue) and vapor (red) valves on the ACR4 tank.
4. Disconnect low side (blue) service hose from the back of the ACR4.
5. Slowly disconnect the tank vapor hose (red) from the back of the ACR4 and connect it to the low
side service port.
6. Open the vapor (red) valve on the tank and record the tank pressure on the low side gage.
7. Restore hoses to the original position.
8. Referring to the Table, find the ambient temperature measured in Step 2. Compare the pressure
reading from Step 6 to the "maximum allowable pressure". If the pressure reading from Step 6 is
less than the "maximum allowable pressure", no further action is necessary.
Important:
The closer the tank pressure is to the desired tank pressure, the better the A/C system will perform.
9. If the pressure reading from Step 6 exceeds the maximum allowable pressure from the Table,
open both tank valves and operate the ACR4 through 4 or 5 evacuation cycles. This will activate
the automatic air purge to lower the tank pressure.
Important:
Station should not be connected to vehicle.
10. Repeat the tank pressure checking procedure the next day to determine if the pressure has
been reduced to acceptable levels. If the tank pressure has been reduced but is not acceptable,
cycle with ACR4 through more evacuation cycles and recheck the next day. Continue process until
acceptable pressure is obtained. If the tank pressure is not reduced through the evacuation cycling,
then Kent-Moore should be contacted at 1-800-345-2233.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications
Refrigerant: Capacity Specifications
A/C Refrigerant Capacity 2.25 lb (US)
Refrigerant Type Refrigerant-134a
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Capacity
Specifications > Page 2196
Refrigerant: Fluid Type Specifications
A/C Refrigerant Type Refrigerant-134a
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2197
Refrigerant: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
Like the coolant in the engine cooling system, the refrigerant is the substance in the air conditioning
system that absorbs, carries, and then releases heat. Although various substances are used as
refrigerants in other types of refrigeration systems, some automotive air conditioning systems use a
type called Refrigerant-12 (R-12).
This vehicle uses Refrigerant-134a (R-134a). It is a non-toxic1 non-flammable, clear, colorless
liquefied gas.
While the R-134a A/C system is very similar to an, R-12 A/C system, the differences in the
refrigerant, lubricants, and service equipment are important.
NOTICE:R-134a refrigerant is not compatible with R-12 refrigerant in an air conditioning system.
R-12 in a R-134a system will cause compressor failure, refrigerant oil sludge or poor air
conditioning system performance.
Refrigerant-134a carries a charge of a special lubricant called polyalkaline glycol (PAG) refrigerant
oil. GM (PAG) refrigerant oil has a slight blue tint. The oil is hydroscopic (absorbs water from the
atmosphere). Store it in closed containers.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/C - New PAG Oil
Refrigerant Oil: Technical Service Bulletins A/C - New PAG Oil
Bulletin No.: 02-01-39-004B
Date: November 16, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: New PAG Oil Released
Models: 2006 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2003-2006 HUMMER
H2 2006 HUMMER H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
Built With R-134a Refrigeration System
All Air Conditioning Compressor Types (Excluding R4 and A6 Type Compressors)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to change the PAG oil part number used for R4 and A6 compressors
with R-134a refrigerant systems. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 02-01-39-004A
(Section 01 - HVAC).
All General Motors vehicles built with R-134a refrigerant systems shall now be serviced with GM
Universal PAG Oil (excluding vehicles equipped with an R4 or A6 compressor).
R4 and A6 compressors with R-134a refrigerant systems shall use PAG OIL, GM P/N 12356151
(A/C Delco part number 15-118) (in Canada, use P/N 10953486).
Important:
The PAG oil referenced in this bulletin is formulated with specific additive packages that meet
General Motors specifications and use of another oil may void the A/C systems warranty.
Use this new PAG oil when servicing the A/C system on the vehicles listed above. Oil packaged in
an 8 oz tube should be installed using A/C Oil Injector, J 45037. Refer to the HVAC Section of
Service Information for detailed information on Oil Balancing and Capacities.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications
Refrigerant Oil: Capacity Specifications
REFRIGERANT OIL DISTRIBUTION
The Harrison HT-6 compressor system used on all models requires polyalkaline glycol (PAG)
refrigerant oil in the quantities listed below:
- Without Aux. A/C - 240 ml (8 fl oz)
- With Aux. A/C - 330 ml (11 fl oz)
New oil quantities must be added to the system during component replacement and conditions
stated as follows:
- With no signs of excessive oil leakage, add: A. All Compressors (drain and measure the oil)
- If less than 30 ml (1 fl oz) is drained-add 60 ml (2 fl oz) to the new compressor.
- If more than 30 ml (1 fl oz) is drained-add same amount that was drained to the new compressor.
B. Accumulator-Add 105 ml (3.5 fl oz) of new oil to the replacement accumulator to compensate for
oil retained by original accumulator
desiccant and bag assemblies. The accumulator should only be replaced if leaking due to a
perforation, damaged O-ring seal seat, or damaged threads.
C. Evaporator-Add 90 ml (3 fl oz) of new refrigerant oil. D. Condenser-Add 30 ml (1 fl oz) of new
refrigerant oil.
REFRIGERANT OIL LOSS DUE TO A LARGE LEAK
If the refrigerant charge is abruptly lost due to a large refrigerant leak, approximately 90 ml (3 fl oz)
of refrigerant oil will be carried out of the system suspended in the refrigerant. Any failure that
caused a abrupt refrigerant discharge will experience this oil loss. Failures that allow the refrigerant
to seep or bleed off over time do not experience this oil loss. Upon replacement of a component
that caused a large refrigerant leak, add 90 ml (3 fl oz) of new polyalkaline glycol (PAG) refrigerant
oil plus the desired amount of oil for the particular component.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fluids > Refrigerant Oil > Component Information > Specifications >
Capacity Specifications > Page 2204
Refrigerant Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
REFRIGERANT OIL TYPE
- R-134a PAG (Polyalkaline Glycol) synthetic refrigerant oil (GM Part No. 12345923) or equivalent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel
Anitlock Brake System
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
BLEEDING PROCEDURES
Important: Never pump the brake pedal. Fluid cavitation may occur.
NOTICE: Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
1. Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed
screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen. 2. Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear
wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front. 3. Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full
turn. 4. Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw
has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait
10-15 seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.
Important: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from
each wheel. Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws. Check the
master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.
5. If any component is replaced which may have caused air to enter the BPMV, use a Scan Tool to
run "Function Test" four times while applying the
brake pedal firmly.
Important: Set the park brake when running the "Function Test."
6. Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake
system. 7. Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as
many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
1. Install pressure bleeder per instructions. 2. Install combination valve depressing tool J391 77 if
the vehicle is equipped with the metering portion of the combination valve. Remove both dust
caps on the combination valve. Install the tool on the end of the combination valve with a brass
center pin.
3. Bleed all four wheels beginning at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
Leave the bleed screws open until 1 pint of fluid
has been bled out of each wheel.
4. After bleeding all four wheels1 remove the combination valve clip. Use a Scan Tool to run 4
functional tests while applying the brake pedal
firmly.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 3 then evaluate the pedal feel. 6. Rebleed the wheels as many times as
necessary to obtain good pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle. A good bleed will use
approximately 2 to 3 quarts of brake fluid.
Important: Never reuse brake fluid after it has been bled through a brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel
Anitlock Brake System > Page 2209
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Bleeding
This procedure can be performed with master cylinder on or off vehicle.
1. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder, if necessary.
2. Connect suitable lengths of brake lines to master cylinder and immerse other ends of lines in
master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Apply master cylinder pushrod or brake pedal with full strokes until air bubbles have disappeared
in reservoirs. It may require 20-30 applications to fully eliminate air bubbles.
4. Remove bleeding lines from master cylinder, then install master cylinder on vehicle, if necessary,
and connect brake lines.
It is not necessary to bleed entire hydraulic system after replacing master cylinder, providing
master cylinder has been bled and filled during installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel
Anitlock Brake System > Page 2210
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System
Pressure Bleeding
Pressure Bleeding
A diaphragm type pressure bleeder must be used. It must have a rubber diaphragm between the
air supply and brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil, and other contaminants from entering the
hydraulic system.
NOTICE: Brake fluid can damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always
re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: Brake Bleeder Adapter J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the pressure tank at least 2,3 full of brake fluid. The bleeder must be bled each time fluid is
added. 2. Charge the bleeder to 140 - 170 kPa ( 20-25 psi ).
3. Install the bleeder adapter. 4. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have
air trapped inside, it must be bled next. 5. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front. D. Left front.
6. Connect the hose from the bleeder to the adapter at the master cylinder. 7. Open the tank valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel
Anitlock Brake System > Page 2211
8. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder valve at least 3/4 of a turn and allow the fluid to flow until no air is seen in the
fluid.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ). 11. Repeat Steps 9 through 11 at all wheels.
12. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess."
^ Repeat the entire bleeding procedure if this condition is found.
13. Disconnect the hose from the bleeder adapter. 14. Remove the bleeder adapter. 15. Fill the
master cylinder to the proper level.
Manual Bleeding
BLEEDING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
Bleeding is necessary if air has entered the hydraulic brake system. It may be necessary to bleed
the system at all four wheels if a low fluid level allowed the air to enter the system or the brake
pipes have been disconnected at the master cylinder or combination valve. If a pipe is
disconnected at one wheel, then bleed only that wheel.
The time required to bleed the hydraulic system when the master cylinder is removed can be
reduced by bench bleeding the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle.
Manual Bleeding
If the vehicle is equipped with a vacuum booster, relieve the vacuum reserve by applying the
brakes several times with the engine off.
NOTICE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent the brake fluid from contacting these areas.
Always re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® Hydraulic Brake Fluid GM P/N
1052535 or an equivalent DOT 3 motor vehicle brake
fluid.
^ Maintain the fluid level during bleeding.
2. If the master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, bleed it before any wheel cylinder or
caliper.
A. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. B. Allow the brake fluid to
flow from the connector port. C. Connect the brake pipe but do not tighten. D. Slowly apply the
brake pedal and allow the air to bleed from the loose fitting. E. Tighten the fitting before releasing
the pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel
Anitlock Brake System > Page 2212
F. Wait 15 seconds. G. Repeat this sequence, including the 1 5-second wait, until all air is purged
from the bore. H. After all air has been removed from the forward connection, repeat this procedure
for the rear pipe.
3. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have air trapped inside, it must be
bled next. 4. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front D. Left front
5. Attach a hose to the wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
6. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 7. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air
from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 8. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ) and slowly
release the pedal. 9. Wait 15 seconds.
10. Repeat this sequence, including the 15-second wait until all air is purged from the wheel
cylinder/caliper. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 at each wheel until the system is bled. 12. Check
the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the brake warning lamp for an indication of unbalanced
pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to
correct either of these conditions.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair Air Bag Disarming and Arming
Disabling the SIR System
Fig. 1 Air Bag Two-way Connector
DRIVER SIDE
Many service procedures require the air bag system to be disabled to prevent accidental
deployment. The air bag system can maintain sufficient voltage to cause deployment for up to 2
minutes after the ignition switch is turned off, the battery ground cable is disconnected or the
DERM fuse is removed. If the inflator module is disconnected from the deployment loop by the
following procedure, service can begin immediately without waiting for the 2 minute time period to
elapse.
1. Turn steering wheel so that vehicle wheels are pointed straight ahead. 2. Turn ignition switch to
Lock position and remove key. 3. Remove air bag fuse from fuse block. 4. Remove steering column
filler panel. 5. Remove Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and disconnect yellow two-way
connector at base of steering column, Fig. 1.
PASSENGER SIDE
1. Remove air bag fuse from fuse block.
Enabling the SIR System
Driver Side
1. Turn ignition switch to LOCK and remove key. 2. Connect yellow two-way connector and install
connector position assurance (CPA). 3. Install steering column filler panel. 4. Insert air bag fuse
into fuse block. 5. Turn ignition switch to RUN and verify that the air bag warning lamp flashes
seven times then turns off.
Passenger Side
1. Turn ignition switch to LOCK and remove key. 2. Insert air bag fuse into fuse block. 3. Turn
ignition switch to RUN and verify that the air bag warning lamp flashes seven times then turns off.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming > System Information > Service and
Repair > Air Bag Disarming and Arming > Page 2217
Air Bag(s) Arming and Disarming: Service and Repair General Service Precautions
CAUTION: When performing service on or around SIR components or SIR wiring, follow the
procedures listed below to temporarily disable the SIR system. Failure to follow procedures could
result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury or otherwise unneeded SIR system repairs.
The DERM can maintain sufficient voltage to cause a deployment for up to 2 minutes after the
ignition switch is turned "OFF," the battery is disconnected, or the fuse powering the DERM is
removed.
Many of the service procedures require removal of the "AIR BAG" fuse, and disconnection of the
inflator module from the deployment loop to avoid an accidental deployment. If the inflator module
is disconnected from the deployment loop as noted in the "Disabling the SIR System" procedure
that follows, service can begin immediately without waiting for the 2 minute time period to expire.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Fuse: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Aftermarket Fuse Warning
Bulletin No.: 07-08-45-002
Date: September 05, 2007
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Service Alert: Concerns With Aftermarket Fuses in GM Vehicles
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2008 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Concerns with Harbor Freight Tools "Storehouse" Branded Blade Type Fuses
General Motors has become aware of a fuse recall by Harbor Freight Tools/Storehouse for a
variety of aftermarket fuses. In two cases, these fuses have not provided protection for the wiring
system of the vehicles they were customer installed in.
Upon testing the 15 amp version, it was found that the fuse still would not "open" when shorted
directly across the battery terminals.
How to Identify These Fuses
Packed in a 120 piece set, the fuse has a translucent, hard plastic, blue body with the amperage
stamped into the top. There are no white painted numbers on the fuse to indicate amperage. There
are no identifying marks on the fuse to tell who is making it. The fuses are known to be distributed
by Harbor Freight Tools but there may be other marketers, and packaging of this style of fuse. It
would be prudent to replace these fuses if found in a customers vehicle. Likewise, if wiring
overheating is found you should check the fuse panel for the presence of this style of fuse.
All GM dealers should use genuine GM fuses on the vehicles they service. You should also
encourage the use of GM fuses to your customers to assure they are getting the required electrical
system protection. GM has no knowledge of any concerns with other aftermarket fuses. If
additional information becomes available, this bulletin will be updated.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 2223
Instrument Panel Wiring, LH Side
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block
Fuse: Application and ID I/P Fuse Block
I/P Fuse Block (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2226
I/P Fuse Block (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2227
Fuse: Application and ID Convenience Center
Convenience Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2228
Convenience Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2229
Fuse: Application and ID Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse > Component Information > Application
and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2230
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center
Fuse Block: Locations Convenience Center
Convenience Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center > Page 2235
Instrument Panel Wiring, LH Side
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Convenience Center > Page 2236
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Locations > Page 2237
C210: Cross Body HARN To Convenience Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block
Fuse Block: Application and ID I/P Fuse Block
I/P Fuse Block (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2240
I/P Fuse Block (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2241
Fuse Block: Application and ID Underhood Fuse/Relay Center
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2242
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2243
Fuse Block: Application and ID Convenience Center
Convenience Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Fuse Block > Component Information >
Application and ID > I/P Fuse Block > Page 2244
Convenience Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID
Relay Box: Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-82-08
Date: August, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 8A-11 Fuse Block Details Revised Convenience Center Table
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K models.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID > Page 2249
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Electrical - Revised Convenience Center Cavity ID > Page 2250
This bulletin revises "Convenience Center" table on Page 8A-11-5, 6 in the 1996 C/K Service
Manual, Page 8A-11-6, 7 in the 1997 C/K Service Manual, and Page 8A-11-5 in the 1998 C/K
Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2251
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2252
Relay Box: Application and ID
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Fuses and Circuit Breakers > Relay Box > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2253
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams
Low Coolant Level Indicator Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 2258
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
This system uses a sensor mounted on the radiator and an indicator light mounted in the
instrument panel to warn the driver if coolant level is too low. This light is wired in series with the
ignition switch, ECM and the sensor. When the ignition switch is turned to the crank position, the
circuit is energized and the indicator light will illuminate. When the ignition switch is turned to the
ON position and coolant level is sufficient, the sensor will indicate this to the ECM and the light will
turn off.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
1. Turn ignition switch to the On position, then check coolant level and add coolant as necessary. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 2.
2. Disconnect electrical connector at the sensor. If lamp does not illuminate replace the sensor. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 3.
3. Connect electrical lead to the sensor and check for an open circuit between the sensor and the
module. Repair or replace as necessary. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated > Page 2261
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Will Not Illuminate
1. Turn ignition switch to the crank position, and proceed as follows: a.
If lamp illuminates, lamp is satisfactory and connector is properly installed. Proceed to step 2.
b. If lamp does not illuminate, check bulb, socket and wiring between socket and module
connector. Replace or repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition switch to the On position and disconnect electrical lead at coolant level sensor
mounted on the radiator. If lamp fails to illuminate, check wiring between coolant level sensor
connector and ECM for a short circuit to ground. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Customer Interest PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2270
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2271
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2272
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2273
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2274
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar > 97 >
PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2275
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2281
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2282
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2283
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2284
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2285
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 2286
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Service Reminder Indicators > Malfunction Indicator Lamp > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2287
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Service and Repair
The CHECK ENGINE LAMP will be illuminated when the ignition switch is placed in the "ON"
position. When the engine is started, the lamp should turn "OFF". If the lamp remains "ON" for 10
seconds or constantly after the engine is started, the self diagnosis system has detected a problem
and has stored a code in the system Control Module.
After diagnosis and repair, the ECM memory can be cleared of codes by removing the Control
Module fuse or disconnecting the battery ground cable for approximately 30 seconds, with ignition
switch in the "OFF" position. NOTE If battery ground cable is disconnected to clear codes, components such as clocks, electronically
tuned radios etc., will have to be reset.
- It is a good idea to record preset radio stations before disconnecting the negative battery cable.
This will allow the stations to be reset as to not inconvenience the customer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
Fig. 12 Vehicle Lift Points.
Fig. 12 Vehicle Lift Points.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-020C
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-03-10-020B (Section 03 - Suspension).
GM's Position on the Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
General Motors does not oppose the use of purified nitrogen as an inflation gas for tires. We expect
the theoretical benefits to be reduced in practical use due to the lack of an existing infrastructure to
continuously facilitate inflating tires with nearly pure nitrogen. Even occasional inflation with
compressed atmospheric air will negate many of the theoretical benefits. Given those theoretical
benefits, practical limitations, and the robust design of GM original equipment TPC tires, the
realized benefits to our customer of inflating their tires with purified nitrogen are expected to be
minimal.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Under Controlled Conditions
Recently, nitrogen gas (for use in inflating tires) has become available to the general consumer
through some retailers. The use of nitrogen gas to inflate tires is a technology used in automobile
racing. The following benefits under controlled conditions are attributed to nitrogen gas and its
unique properties:
- A reduction in the expected loss of Tire Pressure over time.
- A reduction in the variance of Tire Pressures with temperature changes due to reduction of water
vapor concentration.
- A reduction of long term rubber degradation due to a decrease in oxygen concentrations.
Important These are obtainable performance improvements when relatively pure nitrogen gas is
used to inflate tires under controlled conditions.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Real World Use
Nitrogen inflation can provide some benefit by reducing gas migration (pressure loss) at the
molecular level through the tire structure. NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration)
has stated that the inflation pressure loss of tires can be up to 5% a month. Nitrogen molecules are
larger than oxygen molecules and, therefore, are less prone to "seeping" through the tire casing.
The actual obtainable benefits of nitrogen vary, based on the physical construction and the
materials used in the manufacturing of the tire being inflated.
Another potential benefit of nitrogen is the reduced oxidation of tire components. Research has
demonstrated that oxygen consumed in the oxidation process of the tire primarily comes from the
inflation media. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that oxidation of tire components can be
reduced if the tire is inflated with pure nitrogen. However, only very small amounts of oxygen are
required to begin the normal oxidation process. Even slight contamination of the tire inflation gas
with compressed atmospheric air during normal inflation pressure maintenance, may negate the
benefits of using nitrogen.
GM Tire Quality, Technology and Focus of Importance
Since 1972, General Motors has designed tires under the TPC (Tire Performance Criteria)
specification system, which includes specific requirements that ensure robust tire performance
under normal usage. General Motors works with tire suppliers to design and manufacture original
equipment tires for GM vehicles. The GM TPC addresses required performance with respect to
both inflation pressure retention, and endurance properties for original equipment tires. The
inflation pressure retention requirements address availability of oxygen and oxidation concerns,
while endurance requirements ensure the mechanical structure of the tire has sufficient strength.
This combination has provided our customers with tires that maintain their structural integrity
throughout their useful treadlife under normal operating conditions.
Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure
maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance. Maintaining the
correct inflation pressure allows the tire to perform as intended by the vehicle manufacturer in
many areas, including comfort, fuel economy, stopping distance, cornering, traction, treadwear,
and noise. Since the load carrying capability of a tire is related to inflation pressure, proper inflation
pressure maintenance is necessary for the tire to support the load imposed by the vehicle without
excessive structural
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires > Page 2296
degradation.
Important Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure
maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair Procedures
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-001F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Tire Puncture Repair Procedures For All Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-03-10-001E (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin covers puncture repair procedures for passenger car and light duty truck radial tires in
the tread area only. The tire manufacturer must be contacted for its individual repair policy and
whether or not the speed rating is retained after repair.
Caution
- Tire changing can be dangerous and should be done by trained professionals using proper tools
and procedures. Always read and understand any manufacturer's warnings contained in their
customers literature or molded into the tire sidewall.
- Serious eye and ear injury may result from not wearing adequate eye and ear protection while
repairing tires.
- NEVER inflate beyond 275 kPa (40 pounds) pressure to seat beads.
Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may
require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be
used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.
- NEVER stand, lean or reach over the assembly during inflation.
Repairable area on a radial tire.
Important
- NEVER repair tires worn to the tread indicators 1.59 mm (2/32") remaining depth).
- NEVER repair tires with a tread puncture larger than 6.35 mm (1/4").
- NEVER substitute an inner tube for a permissible or non-permissible repair.
- NEVER perform an outside-in tire repair (plug only, on the wheel).
- Every tire must be removed from the wheel for proper inspection and repair.
- Regardless of the type of repair used, the repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury.
- Consult with repair material supplier/manufacturer for repair unit application procedures and
repair tools/repair material recommendations.
Three basic steps for tire puncture repair:
1. Remove the tire from the wheel for inspection and repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures > Page 2302
2. Fill the injury (puncture) to keep moisture out. 3. Seal the inner liner with a repair unit to prevent
air loss.
External Inspection
1. Prior to demounting, inspect the tire surface, the valve and the wheel for the source of the leak
by using a water and soap solution. Mark the
injured area and totally deflate the tire by removing the valve core.
2. Demount the tire from the wheel and place the tire on a well-lighted spreader.
Internal Inspection
1. Spread the beads and mark the puncture with a tire crayon. 2. Inspect the inner tire for any signs
of internal damage. 3. Remove the puncturing object, noting the direction of the penetration. 4.
Probe the injury with a blunt awl in order to determine the extent and direction of the injury. 5.
Remove any loose foreign material from the injury. 6. Punctures exceeding 6.35 mm (1/4") should
not be repaired.
Cleaning
1. Clean the area around the puncture thoroughly with a proper liner cleaner, clean cloth and a
scraper. This step serves to remove dirt and mold
lubricants to insure proper adhesion and non-contamination of the buffing tool.
2. Refer to information on the product or manufacturer's Material Safety Data Sheet and follow
guidelines for handling and disposal.
Clean the Injury Channel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures > Page 2303
1. Use a proper hand reamer, carbide cutter or drill bit to ream the puncture channel from the inside
of the tire in order to clean the injury. 2. Remove steel wires protruding above the liner surface to
prevent damage to the repair unit. 3. Consult your repair material supplier for recommended
reaming tool(s).
Fill the Injury
1. It is necessary to fill the injury channel to provide back up for the repair unit and to prevent
moisture from entering the tire fabric and steel wires. 2. (For combination repair/plug units skip this
step.) Cement the injured channel and fill the injury from the inside of the tire with the repair plug
per
repair material manufacturer's recommendations. Without stretching the plug, cut the plug off just
above the inside tire surface.
3. Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair material selection.
Repair Unit Selection
Important Do not install the repair unit in this step.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures > Page 2304
1. Center the repair unit over the injury as a reference and outline an area larger than the unit so
that buffing will not remove the crayon marks. 2. Remove the repair unit. 3. DO NOT overlap
previous or multiple repair units. 4. Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair unit
selection.
Buffing
1. To prevent contamination and preserve the outline, buff within the marked area thoroughly and
evenly with a low speed buffing tool using a fine
wire brush or gritted rasp.
2. Buff to a smooth velvet surface (RMA #1 or #2 buffed texture). 3. Use caution not to gouge the
inner liner or expose casing fabric. 4. Remove any buffing dust with a vacuum cleaner. 5. Consult
your repair material supplier for a proper buffing tool.
Cementing
Apply chemical cement according to the repair material manufacturer's procedures.
Repair Unit Application
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures > Page 2305
1. The tire must be in the relaxed position when the repair unit is installed (Do not spread the beads
excessively).
Two-Piece Plug and Repair Units
1. If applicable, install the repair unit so that the alignment is correct. 2. Center the repair unit over
the injury and stitch down thoroughly with the stitching tool, working from the center out.
3. Being careful not to stretch the plug material, cut the plug flush with the outer tread.
Combination Repair/Plug Units
1. Pull the plug through the injury until the repair just reaches the liner. Stitch down thoroughly. 2.
Follow the repair material manufacturer's recommendations for further installation instructions.
2. Consult your repair material supplier for the proper stitching tool.
Safety Cage
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 04-03-10-001F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair
Procedures > Page 2306
Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may
require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be
used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.
Final Inspection
1. After remounting and inflating the tire, check both beads, the repair and the valve with a water
and soap solution in order to detect leaks. 2. If the tire continues to lose air, the tire must be
demounted and reinspected. 3. Balance the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel
Assembly Balancing - OFF Vehicle.
For additional tire puncture repair information, contact:
Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 05-03-10-020C > Apr > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-020C
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-03-10-020B (Section 03 - Suspension).
GM's Position on the Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
General Motors does not oppose the use of purified nitrogen as an inflation gas for tires. We expect
the theoretical benefits to be reduced in practical use due to the lack of an existing infrastructure to
continuously facilitate inflating tires with nearly pure nitrogen. Even occasional inflation with
compressed atmospheric air will negate many of the theoretical benefits. Given those theoretical
benefits, practical limitations, and the robust design of GM original equipment TPC tires, the
realized benefits to our customer of inflating their tires with purified nitrogen are expected to be
minimal.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Under Controlled Conditions
Recently, nitrogen gas (for use in inflating tires) has become available to the general consumer
through some retailers. The use of nitrogen gas to inflate tires is a technology used in automobile
racing. The following benefits under controlled conditions are attributed to nitrogen gas and its
unique properties:
- A reduction in the expected loss of Tire Pressure over time.
- A reduction in the variance of Tire Pressures with temperature changes due to reduction of water
vapor concentration.
- A reduction of long term rubber degradation due to a decrease in oxygen concentrations.
Important These are obtainable performance improvements when relatively pure nitrogen gas is
used to inflate tires under controlled conditions.
The Promise of Nitrogen: Real World Use
Nitrogen inflation can provide some benefit by reducing gas migration (pressure loss) at the
molecular level through the tire structure. NHTSA (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration)
has stated that the inflation pressure loss of tires can be up to 5% a month. Nitrogen molecules are
larger than oxygen molecules and, therefore, are less prone to "seeping" through the tire casing.
The actual obtainable benefits of nitrogen vary, based on the physical construction and the
materials used in the manufacturing of the tire being inflated.
Another potential benefit of nitrogen is the reduced oxidation of tire components. Research has
demonstrated that oxygen consumed in the oxidation process of the tire primarily comes from the
inflation media. Therefore, it is reasonable to assume that oxidation of tire components can be
reduced if the tire is inflated with pure nitrogen. However, only very small amounts of oxygen are
required to begin the normal oxidation process. Even slight contamination of the tire inflation gas
with compressed atmospheric air during normal inflation pressure maintenance, may negate the
benefits of using nitrogen.
GM Tire Quality, Technology and Focus of Importance
Since 1972, General Motors has designed tires under the TPC (Tire Performance Criteria)
specification system, which includes specific requirements that ensure robust tire performance
under normal usage. General Motors works with tire suppliers to design and manufacture original
equipment tires for GM vehicles. The GM TPC addresses required performance with respect to
both inflation pressure retention, and endurance properties for original equipment tires. The
inflation pressure retention requirements address availability of oxygen and oxidation concerns,
while endurance requirements ensure the mechanical structure of the tire has sufficient strength.
This combination has provided our customers with tires that maintain their structural integrity
throughout their useful treadlife under normal operating conditions.
Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure
maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance. Maintaining the
correct inflation pressure allows the tire to perform as intended by the vehicle manufacturer in
many areas, including comfort, fuel economy, stopping distance, cornering, traction, treadwear,
and noise. Since the load carrying capability of a tire is related to inflation pressure, proper inflation
pressure maintenance is necessary for the tire to support the load imposed by the vehicle without
excessive structural
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 05-03-10-020C > Apr > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Use of Nitrogen Gas in Tires
> Page 2311
degradation.
Important Regardless of the inflation media for tires (atmospheric air or nitrogen), inflation pressure
maintenance of tires is critical for overall tire, and ultimately, vehicle performance.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 00-00-90-002J > Jan > 09 > Tires - Correct Inflation Pressure Information
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Correct Inflation Pressure Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-00-90-002J
Date: January 28, 2009
Subject: Information on Proper Tire Pressure
Models: 2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3, H3T 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and clarify additional information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-90-002I (Section 00 - General Information).
Important:
^ Adjustment of tire pressure for a customer with a Low Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) light on and
no codes in the TPM system is NOT a warrantable repair. Claims to simply adjust the tire pressure
will be rejected.
^ ALL tires (including the spare tire) MUST be set to the recommended inflation pressure stated on
the vehicle's tire placard (on driver's door) during the PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION (PDI).
Recommended inflation pressure is not the pressure printed on tire sidewall.
^ Tires may be over-inflated from the assembly plant due to the mounting process.
^ Generally a 5.6°C (10°F) temperature change will result in (is equivalent to) a 6.9 kPa (1 psi) tire
pressure change.
^ 2008-2009 HUMMER H2 Only - The H2 comes standard with Light Truck "D" Load Range tires
with a recommended cold inflation pressure of 289 kPa (42 psi). These tires will alert the driver to a
low pressure situation at roughly 262 kPa (38 psi) due to a requirement in FMVSS 138 which
specifies a Minimum Activation Pressure for each tire type. This creates a relatively narrow window
of "usable" pressure values and the warning will be more sensitive to outside temperature changes
during the colder months. As with other cold temperature/tire pressure issues, there is nothing
wrong with the system itself. If a vehicle is brought in with this concern, check for tire damage and
set all tires to the Recommended Cold Inflation Pressure shown on the vehicle placard.
Accurate tire pressures ensure the safe handling and appropriate ride characteristics of GM cars
and trucks. It is critical that the tire pressure be adjusted to the specifications on the vehicle¡C■s
tire placard during PDI.
Ride, handling and road noise concerns may be caused by improperly adjusted tire pressure.
The first step in the diagnosis of these concerns is to verify that the tires are inflated to the correct
pressures. The recommended tire inflation pressure is listed on the vehicle¡C■s tire placard. The
tire placard is located on the driver¡C■s side front or rear door edge, center pillar, or the rear
compartment lid.
Tip
^ Generally a 5.6°C (10°F) temperature increase will result in (is equivalent to) a 6.9 kPa (1 psi) tire
pressure increase.
^ The definition of a "cold" tire is one that has been sitting for at least 3 hours, or driven no more
than 1.6 km (1 mi).
^ On extremely cold days, if the vehicle has been indoors, it may be necessary to compensate for
the low external temperature by adding additional air to the tire during PDI.
^ During cold weather, the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator light (a yellow horseshoe with an
exclamation point) may illuminate. If this indicator turns off after the tires warm up (reach operating
temperature), the tire pressure should be reset to placard pressure at the cold temperature.
^ The TPM system will work correctly with nitrogen in tires.
^ The TPM system is compatible with the GM Vehicle Care Tire Sealant but may not be with other
commercially available sealants.
Important:
^ Do not use the tire pressure indicated on the tire itself as a guide.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 00-00-90-002J > Jan > 09 > Tires - Correct Inflation Pressure Information
> Page 2316
^ Always inspect and adjust the pressure when the tires are cold.
^ Vehicles that have different pressures for the front and the rear need to be adjusted after tire
rotation.
Improper tire inflation may result in any or all of the following conditions:
^ Premature tire wear
^ Harsh ride
^ Excessive road noise
^ Poor handling
^ Reduced fuel economy
^ Low Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Light ON
^ Low Tire Pressure Message on the Drivers Information Center (DIC)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 01-03-10-011 > Dec > 01 > Tires - Sidewall Damage
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Sidewall Damage
File In Section: 03 Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-011
Date: December, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject: Tire Sidewall Damage
Models: 2002 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Inspection of a number of tires returned to the Warranty Parts Center and the various tire
manufacturers has revealed gouges and/or abrasions that are located on the tire's outboard
sidewall. Typically, these gouges and/or abrasions appear to be located near where the tire was
marked for wheel balance weight installation at the vehicle assembly plant.
It has been determined that this type of surface damage to the tire may be the result of dealers or
owners using a high pressure power washer to remove wax/paint/ink marks from the tire sidewall.
Do not use a high pressure power washer on tires. To remove any markings from the tire's
sidewall, only use soap water and a scrub brush.
This type of tire sidewall damage should not be considered as a warrantable condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 00-03-10-003B > May > 01 > Tires - Bumper To Bumper Warranty
Coverage
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Bumper To Bumper Warranty Coverage
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-003B
Date: May, 2001
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: GM Tire Warranty for Bumper-to-Bumper Program
Models: 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Attention:
"GM of Canada" and "IPC" dealers are not authorized to utilize this service bulletin.
This bulletin is being revised to include information on the new GM Global Tire Warranty & Claims
(GTWC) website for preparing the GM Tire Requisition & Return Document for tires being replaced
under the Bumper-to-Bumper New Vehicle Limited Warranty Program. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 00-03-10-003A (Section 03 - Suspension)
Since the 1996 model year, original equipment manufactured (OEM) tires on all GM passenger
cars and light duty trucks are covered under the Bumper-to-Bumper time and mileage provisions of
the GM New Vehicle Limited Warranty. Saturn began such coverage with the 2001 model year.
Tire warranty coverage allows the customer to have all warranty needs, including tires, addressed
at one location - a GM dealership. Although GM dealers are not required to inventory tires to
administer this warranty coverage, some dealers may choose to do so.
What Is Covered
Only OEM tires are covered against defects in material and workmanship. OEM tires will always
have a Tire Performance Criteria (TPC) number molded on the sidewall near the tire size.
(Exceptions: Prizm and some Tracker models do not use TPC tires, but are still covered.) Any
replaced tire will continue to be covered for the remaining portion of the New Vehicle Warranty.
Tires will be warranted without prorated charges for tread mileage.
Following expiration of GM's coverage, tires may continue to be warranted, on a pro-rated basis, by
the tire manufacturer. Review the tire manufacturer's booklet (included as part of the glove box
material).
What Is Not Covered
^ Non-original equipment tires (those without a TPC number molded on the sidewall except Prizm
and Tracker) are not covered.
^ Normal tire wear and wear out is not covered.
^ Road hazard is not covered. This includes punctures, cuts, impact breaks, etc.
Road hazard is covered by the tire manufacturer on sealant and EMT (run flat) tires.
^ Damage due to misuse, negligence, lack of maintenance, alteration, racing and vandalism is not
covered.
Global Tire Warranty & Claims Website
Effective May 14, 2001, GM dealers will be required to use the Global Tire Warranty & Claims
(GTWC) website to electronically initiate the Tire Requisition & Return Document needed to obtain
replacement tires. All previous paper copy versions of this document should be discarded.
The GTWC website is a secured, encrypted, password-protected tool designed to allow GM to
collect and monitor data on tires being replaced on all GM vehicles, providing an early warning for
any concerns. The website will provide a more efficient, faster and error-free procedure for
preparing the GM Tire Requisition & Return Document.
The electronic Tire Requisition & Return Document requires one form per tire, not one form per
vehicle, as in the past. This web form is designed to automatically fill data fields and provides many
drop-down menu selections to minimize user effort. It also has additional data requirements on
types of adjustments and has a monitoring system for the return of tires to the tire manufacturer for
inspection. GM dealers will need to print copies of the completed web form to get replacement tires
from the local tire dealer and to return the removed tire(s) to the tire manufacturer for inspection.
Once the removed tire has been returned and inspected, the tire manufacturer will also use the
GTWC web system to complete the form initiated by the GM dealer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 00-03-10-003B > May > 01 > Tires - Bumper To Bumper Warranty
Coverage > Page 2325
Initiating a Tire Requisition & Return Document Online
Users may access the system using any PC with an Internet connection through the GM ACCESS
hyperlink or preferably using a local Internet Service Provider (ISP). The minimum browser version
required is Netscape 4.5 or Internet Explorer 4.0 or higher. The GM ACCESS server has an
outdated web browser and cannot be used to access this website. Please use a client PC with the
appropriate level of browser.
1. From a Microsoft Internet Explorer or Netscape, type in the web address: http://gtwc.gm.com.
2. IN the pop-up logon window, type your User ID (which is your Business Association Code) and
your password (your initial password is the same as your User ID) and then click the OK button.
3. For security, each dealer is encouraged to change their password after they logon the first time.
Click on "Change Password" from the upper right-hand menu bar and follow the instructions
provided. Please note that User IDs and passwords are case sensitive.
4. From the "Create New Adjustment" screen, select your GM Dealer Code from the drop-down
menu.
5. Proceed through the form, using the drop-down menus and "populate" buttons to auto-fill related
data.
6. Help buttons are located at individual data fields and overall forms help and definitions are
available at the top right of the screen.
7. From the bottom of the screen, you can "Save as Draft" to complete the form later or "Submit"
the form if it is complete.
8. A confirmation screen will appear allowing you to print the form. Three copies of the form should
be printed. One copy will be provided to the tire store to obtain a replacement tire. The second
copy will be sent with the returned tire and the third copy should be retained. in the vehicle history
file. In addition, an option to quickly create another form called "Next Tire Same Vehicle" is shown.
9. On the navigation menu bar across the top of the screen, "Edit" and "View" choices provide a
way to get back to incomplete forms or view forms that have been submitted. A search mechanism
is available to sort through forms by fields (date of form, repair order number, etc.).
U.S. help Line for GTWC Website Users: 1-888-337-1010 Follow prompt 3: For GM ACCESS,
DealerWorld and Other Internet Applications
Obtaining New Tires
1. Determine the vehicle and tire eligibility based on the What Is Covered/What Is Not Covered
portion of this bulletin.
2. A GM Tire Requisition and Return Document must be completed electronically on the website to
obtain tires. Pressing the web form Submit" button does NOT order a new tire. GM dealers will
need to print a copy of the completed web form to get the replacement tire from the local tire
dealer.
3. New tires are to be obtained through the local tire dealer using a printed copy of the GM Tire
Requisition and Return web form. A warranty replacement tire will be provided at no charge.
Dealers are NOT to purchase warranty replacement tires. If a tire dealer is not convenient, call the
tire manufacturer's toll-free phone number (listed later in this bulletin). Some tire companies will
ship direct to the GM dealership.
4. New tires should be properly mounted, dynamically balanced and installed in the customer's
vehicle. Proper balance weights and wheel nut torque procedures must be used.
Returning Old Tires
MOST tires replaced under the New Vehicle Limited Bumper-to-Bumper Warranty will be returned
to the tire manufacturer. This is done using pre-addressed, prepaid UPS shipping labels. These
labels can be obtained from Helm by calling 1-888-549-6152. Do NOT call UPS or the tire
companies for these labels. There will be instances when the GM Warranty Parts Center (WPC)
will request tires. Therefore, all replaced tires must be retained until receipt of claim payment. The
WPC will request a tire(s) on the same day the credit memo is received at the GM dealership. If no
WPC request is received, the dealer should return tires to the proper tire manufacturer.
GM dealers are encouraged to submit warranty claims as soon as possible in order to alleviate
storage of tires.
Whether returned to the tire manufacturer or the WPC, a printed copy of the Tire Requisition and
Return Document web form and the repair order must be placed in an envelope and securely taped
to EACH tire being returned. A shipping label to the WPC or tire company must be attached to
EACH tire being returned. Using a tire crayon, mark the tire to indicate the reason for replacement
or location of the defect.
Submitting a Warranty Claim
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 00-03-10-003B > May > 01 > Tires - Bumper To Bumper Warranty
Coverage > Page 2326
1. The correct tire warranty labor code must be used for the brand of tire replaced. Choose the
correct labor code from the list as shown.
2. The generic number 09592318 MUST be inserted on all tire claims in the "part number" field
regardless of manufacturer to ensure correct processing.
3. A $25 administrative allowance per repair order MUST be inserted in the "parts amount" field.
4. Labor for mounting and balancing should be submitted.
5. Freight charges for tire returns are NOT to be submitted.
Labor time to replace one tire, including mounting and balancing, is 0.6 hr. Each additional tire
replaced is 0.4 hr.
Important:
For tire replacement because of transportation damage or incorrect parts, use labor code E0421
and submit as a transportation claim.
Tire Company Assistance
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 70-05-01 > Sep > 97 > Tires - Replacement During Bumper to Bumper
Warranty
Technical Service Bulletin # 70-05-01 Date: 970901
Tires - Replacement During Bumper to Bumper Warranty
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 70-05-01
Date: September, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Tire Replacement During Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty
Models: All 1996 and Newer Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks and All 1995 Cadillac Models
Recent reviews of Tire Warranty Claims, including the physical inspection of tires returned by
dealers to the tire manufacturers inspection centers, has identified areas of warranty administration
needing improvement. The purpose of this bulletin is to point out those problem areas, recommend
corrective solutions and to list the sources of information which could be of assistance to dealers in
the administration of the tire portion of the GM Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty.
There are a number of reasons that tires may require replacement. The following information
identities those reasons and what actions, if any, should be taken.
When tire(s) replacement is required during the GM Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty, they are
to be obtained from the appropriate local tire dealer.
- Provide the local tire dealer with a properly completed photocopy of the GM Tire Requisition and
Return Document, and the repair order.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 70-05-01 > Sep > 97 > Tires - Replacement During Bumper to Bumper
Warranty > Page 2331
- If assistance in obtaining replacement tire(s) is needed, contact the Tire Manufacturer using their
toll-free Assistance Numbers:
Tire Manufacturer Assistance Numbers
BRIDGESTONE and 1-800-356-4644
FIRESTONE
GENERAL 1-800-847-3349
GOODYEAR 1-800-782-7949
MICHELIN 1-800-887-0662
UNIROYAL and B.F. GOODRICH
1-800-231-5893
Return of tire(s) adjusted under the GM Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty to the appropriate tire
manufacturer return centers.
- UPS will pickup adjusted tire(s) for return to the tire manufacturers return center during their
routine weekly dealer delivery schedule. Dealer will not be charged tire return freight charges by
UPS.
- Quantities of preprinted, prepaid UPS shipping labels to the tire manufacturer's return center are
available at no-charge through GM Fulfillment 1-800-269-5100.
- Dealer should have adjusted tire(s) ready for pickup by UPS for shipment to the appropriate tire
manufacturers return center within two business days after tire replacement(s). Tires scheduled for
return are to be received at the tire manufacturers return location within 30 days after acquisition of
the new tire(s). Dealer failure to return the failed tire(s) within this prescribed time limit will result in
automatic debit of warranty claim.
Important:
Only tires replaced under the GM Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty are to be returned to the
tire manufacturers return center.
Tires adjusted under the GM Bumper to Bumper Vehicle Warranty, received at tire manufacturers
return center, must include the following required paper work:
Tire Requisition and Return Document
- Complete the owner information, tire warranty data, replaced tire information, and reason for tire
removal sections of the GM Tire Requisition and Return Document. Photocopy forms as needed
from the GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, Article 1.5, or Service Bulletins.
Repair Order
- Staple the completed GM Tire Requisition and Return Document to a photocopy of the R.O. and
place in an envelope. Also include copies of any other paperwork received from the tire dealer.
Attach the envelope to the adjusted tire using clear package tape wrapped completely around the
body of the tire.
Tire returns received with improper or no paperwork will be subject to debit.
Cause of failure determined to be other than detects in materials and/or workmanship.
- Normal tire wear is not covered by warranty.
- Road hazard damage such as punctures, cuts, snags and breaks resulting from pothole impact,
curb impact, or from other objects, is not covered (sealant tires do have road hazard coverage and
are to be handled directly with the tire dealer or tire manufacturer).
- Damage from improper inflation, spinning (as when stuck in mud or snow), tire chains, racing,
improper mounting or dismounting, misuse, negligence, alteration, vandalism, or misapplication is
not covered.
- Dealer Claims for tires returned with no identifiable defects in material and workmanship will be
subject to debit.
The following sources of information are available to assist dealers with proper tire problem
diagnosis, repair, Warranty Administration and Service Information.
- Information contained in the Warranty and Owner Assistance Information Booklet under "What is"
and "What is Not Covered".
- GM Techline Tire Warranty Training Video and GM Techline Tire Warranty Procedures Booklet
available through GM Training 1-800-393-4831.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 70-05-01 > Sep > 97 > Tires - Replacement During Bumper to Bumper
Warranty > Page 2332
- Warranty Administration Bulletin Number 52-05-09, 60-05-01, and 60-05-02 dated October 1995,
May 1996 and November 1996 respectively.
- GM Service Policies and Procedures Manual, Articles 1.5.2E, and 1.5.12.
- GM Service Manuals, Section 3E.
- Vibration Diagnosis Training through GM Training Centers.
- In-Dealership training programs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 600501 > Apr > 96 > Warranty - Tire Replacement
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Tire Replacement
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 60-05-01
Date: April, 1996
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Tire Replacements
Models: All Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
With bulletin number 52-05-09 dated October, 1995, GM announced the 1996 Tire Warranty
Administration Program for all divisions. The purpose of this bulletin is to clarify the use and
application of warranty labor operation numbers in conjunction with tire replacements.
ALL 1996 GM PASSENGER CARS AND LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS AND 1995 CADILLAC TIRE
REPLACEMENTS UNDER THE BUMPER-TO-BUMPER COVERAGE
When replacing a defective OEM tire under the bumper-to-bumper warranty, dealer may submit a
warranty claim for labor utilizing the appropriate GM labor operation as shown.
These labor operations and times will be published in the April, 1996 edition of the GM Labor Time
Guides.
Important:
In the event one or more tires are replaced under the bumper-to-bumper warranty, dealer is to
submit $25 administrative allowance as a net item per repair order. Also, any sublet charges for
mounting and balancing by the tire dealer are to be submitted as a net item.
ALL MODEL YEAR GM PASSENGER CAR AND LIGHT DUTY TRUCK TIRE REPLACEMENT
FOR REASONS OTHER THAN A DEFECTIVE TIRE
The following claims submission practices continue to apply to all model year vehicles.
When replacing a tire that failed because of a defect in material or workmanship of another
warranted component, include associated costs (parts and labor) with the claim for replacement of
that failed part/component.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > 600501 > Apr > 96 > Warranty - Tire Replacement > Page 2337
Dealer reimbursement for tires adjusted under vehicle warranty will be at dealer net cost of tires,
and any mounting, balancing and freight charges not covered by the tire manufacturer, plus a 0.2
hour handling allowance on each tire replacement R.O. No warranty parts handling allowance
applies.
Important:
This type of claim will require appropriate authorization.
Tire failure due to road hazard damage should not be submitted to GM for reimbursement and is
not included in the replacement guidelines contained in this bulletin.
ALL TRANSMISSION CLAIMS FOR TIRE REPLACEMENT
For tire replacement because of transportation damage or missing/incorrect parts, use labor
operation number E0421 and submit as a transportation claim.
Refer to your GM claims processing manual for complete claims submission details.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2338
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Tire Puncture Repair Procedures
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-001F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Tire Puncture Repair Procedures For All Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-03-10-001E (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin covers puncture repair procedures for passenger car and light duty truck radial tires in
the tread area only. The tire manufacturer must be contacted for its individual repair policy and
whether or not the speed rating is retained after repair.
Caution
- Tire changing can be dangerous and should be done by trained professionals using proper tools
and procedures. Always read and understand any manufacturer's warnings contained in their
customers literature or molded into the tire sidewall.
- Serious eye and ear injury may result from not wearing adequate eye and ear protection while
repairing tires.
- NEVER inflate beyond 275 kPa (40 pounds) pressure to seat beads.
Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may
require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be
used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.
- NEVER stand, lean or reach over the assembly during inflation.
Repairable area on a radial tire.
Important
- NEVER repair tires worn to the tread indicators 1.59 mm (2/32") remaining depth).
- NEVER repair tires with a tread puncture larger than 6.35 mm (1/4").
- NEVER substitute an inner tube for a permissible or non-permissible repair.
- NEVER perform an outside-in tire repair (plug only, on the wheel).
- Every tire must be removed from the wheel for proper inspection and repair.
- Regardless of the type of repair used, the repair must seal the inner liner and fill the injury.
- Consult with repair material supplier/manufacturer for repair unit application procedures and
repair tools/repair material recommendations.
Three basic steps for tire puncture repair:
1. Remove the tire from the wheel for inspection and repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2339
2. Fill the injury (puncture) to keep moisture out. 3. Seal the inner liner with a repair unit to prevent
air loss.
External Inspection
1. Prior to demounting, inspect the tire surface, the valve and the wheel for the source of the leak
by using a water and soap solution. Mark the
injured area and totally deflate the tire by removing the valve core.
2. Demount the tire from the wheel and place the tire on a well-lighted spreader.
Internal Inspection
1. Spread the beads and mark the puncture with a tire crayon. 2. Inspect the inner tire for any signs
of internal damage. 3. Remove the puncturing object, noting the direction of the penetration. 4.
Probe the injury with a blunt awl in order to determine the extent and direction of the injury. 5.
Remove any loose foreign material from the injury. 6. Punctures exceeding 6.35 mm (1/4") should
not be repaired.
Cleaning
1. Clean the area around the puncture thoroughly with a proper liner cleaner, clean cloth and a
scraper. This step serves to remove dirt and mold
lubricants to insure proper adhesion and non-contamination of the buffing tool.
2. Refer to information on the product or manufacturer's Material Safety Data Sheet and follow
guidelines for handling and disposal.
Clean the Injury Channel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2340
1. Use a proper hand reamer, carbide cutter or drill bit to ream the puncture channel from the inside
of the tire in order to clean the injury. 2. Remove steel wires protruding above the liner surface to
prevent damage to the repair unit. 3. Consult your repair material supplier for recommended
reaming tool(s).
Fill the Injury
1. It is necessary to fill the injury channel to provide back up for the repair unit and to prevent
moisture from entering the tire fabric and steel wires. 2. (For combination repair/plug units skip this
step.) Cement the injured channel and fill the injury from the inside of the tire with the repair plug
per
repair material manufacturer's recommendations. Without stretching the plug, cut the plug off just
above the inside tire surface.
3. Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair material selection.
Repair Unit Selection
Important Do not install the repair unit in this step.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2341
1. Center the repair unit over the injury as a reference and outline an area larger than the unit so
that buffing will not remove the crayon marks. 2. Remove the repair unit. 3. DO NOT overlap
previous or multiple repair units. 4. Consult your repair material supplier for proper repair unit
selection.
Buffing
1. To prevent contamination and preserve the outline, buff within the marked area thoroughly and
evenly with a low speed buffing tool using a fine
wire brush or gritted rasp.
2. Buff to a smooth velvet surface (RMA #1 or #2 buffed texture). 3. Use caution not to gouge the
inner liner or expose casing fabric. 4. Remove any buffing dust with a vacuum cleaner. 5. Consult
your repair material supplier for a proper buffing tool.
Cementing
Apply chemical cement according to the repair material manufacturer's procedures.
Repair Unit Application
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2342
1. The tire must be in the relaxed position when the repair unit is installed (Do not spread the beads
excessively).
Two-Piece Plug and Repair Units
1. If applicable, install the repair unit so that the alignment is correct. 2. Center the repair unit over
the injury and stitch down thoroughly with the stitching tool, working from the center out.
3. Being careful not to stretch the plug material, cut the plug flush with the outer tread.
Combination Repair/Plug Units
1. Pull the plug through the injury until the repair just reaches the liner. Stitch down thoroughly. 2.
Follow the repair material manufacturer's recommendations for further installation instructions.
2. Consult your repair material supplier for the proper stitching tool.
Safety Cage
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2343
Some run flat tires, such as the Goodyear Extended Mobility Tire (EMT) used on the Corvette, may
require more than 275 kPa (40 psi) to seat the bead. In such a case, a tire safety cage must be
used. Consult the tire manufacturer for its individual repair policy.
Final Inspection
1. After remounting and inflating the tire, check both beads, the repair and the valve with a water
and soap solution in order to detect leaks. 2. If the tire continues to lose air, the tire must be
demounted and reinspected. 3. Balance the tire and wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel
Assembly Balancing - OFF Vehicle.
For additional tire puncture repair information, contact:
Rubber Manufacturers Association (RMA)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2344
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Correct Inflation Pressure Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-00-90-002J
Date: January 28, 2009
Subject: Information on Proper Tire Pressure
Models: 2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2009 and
Prior HUMMER H2, H3, H3T 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years and clarify additional information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-00-90-002I (Section 00 - General Information).
Important:
^ Adjustment of tire pressure for a customer with a Low Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) light on and
no codes in the TPM system is NOT a warrantable repair. Claims to simply adjust the tire pressure
will be rejected.
^ ALL tires (including the spare tire) MUST be set to the recommended inflation pressure stated on
the vehicle's tire placard (on driver's door) during the PRE-DELIVERY INSPECTION (PDI).
Recommended inflation pressure is not the pressure printed on tire sidewall.
^ Tires may be over-inflated from the assembly plant due to the mounting process.
^ Generally a 5.6°C (10°F) temperature change will result in (is equivalent to) a 6.9 kPa (1 psi) tire
pressure change.
^ 2008-2009 HUMMER H2 Only - The H2 comes standard with Light Truck "D" Load Range tires
with a recommended cold inflation pressure of 289 kPa (42 psi). These tires will alert the driver to a
low pressure situation at roughly 262 kPa (38 psi) due to a requirement in FMVSS 138 which
specifies a Minimum Activation Pressure for each tire type. This creates a relatively narrow window
of "usable" pressure values and the warning will be more sensitive to outside temperature changes
during the colder months. As with other cold temperature/tire pressure issues, there is nothing
wrong with the system itself. If a vehicle is brought in with this concern, check for tire damage and
set all tires to the Recommended Cold Inflation Pressure shown on the vehicle placard.
Accurate tire pressures ensure the safe handling and appropriate ride characteristics of GM cars
and trucks. It is critical that the tire pressure be adjusted to the specifications on the vehicle¡C■s
tire placard during PDI.
Ride, handling and road noise concerns may be caused by improperly adjusted tire pressure.
The first step in the diagnosis of these concerns is to verify that the tires are inflated to the correct
pressures. The recommended tire inflation pressure is listed on the vehicle¡C■s tire placard. The
tire placard is located on the driver¡C■s side front or rear door edge, center pillar, or the rear
compartment lid.
Tip
^ Generally a 5.6°C (10°F) temperature increase will result in (is equivalent to) a 6.9 kPa (1 psi) tire
pressure increase.
^ The definition of a "cold" tire is one that has been sitting for at least 3 hours, or driven no more
than 1.6 km (1 mi).
^ On extremely cold days, if the vehicle has been indoors, it may be necessary to compensate for
the low external temperature by adding additional air to the tire during PDI.
^ During cold weather, the Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) indicator light (a yellow horseshoe with an
exclamation point) may illuminate. If this indicator turns off after the tires warm up (reach operating
temperature), the tire pressure should be reset to placard pressure at the cold temperature.
^ The TPM system will work correctly with nitrogen in tires.
^ The TPM system is compatible with the GM Vehicle Care Tire Sealant but may not be with other
commercially available sealants.
Important:
^ Do not use the tire pressure indicated on the tire itself as a guide.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2345
^ Always inspect and adjust the pressure when the tires are cold.
^ Vehicles that have different pressures for the front and the rear need to be adjusted after tire
rotation.
Improper tire inflation may result in any or all of the following conditions:
^ Premature tire wear
^ Harsh ride
^ Excessive road noise
^ Poor handling
^ Reduced fuel economy
^ Low Tire Pressure Monitor (TPM) Light ON
^ Low Tire Pressure Message on the Drivers Information Center (DIC)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Tires > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Tires: > Page 2346
Tires: Technical Service Bulletins Tires - Sidewall Damage
File In Section: 03 Suspension
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-011
Date: December, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject: Tire Sidewall Damage
Models: 2002 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Inspection of a number of tires returned to the Warranty Parts Center and the various tire
manufacturers has revealed gouges and/or abrasions that are located on the tire's outboard
sidewall. Typically, these gouges and/or abrasions appear to be located near where the tire was
marked for wheel balance weight installation at the vehicle assembly plant.
It has been determined that this type of surface damage to the tire may be the result of dealers or
owners using a high pressure power washer to remove wax/paint/ink marks from the tire sidewall.
Do not use a high pressure power washer on tires. To remove any markings from the tire's
sidewall, only use soap water and a scrub brush.
This type of tire sidewall damage should not be considered as a warrantable condition.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Wheels: Customer Interest Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2355
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2356
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV) > Page 2357
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: Customer Interest Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels >
Page 2362
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2368
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2369
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2370
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2375
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2380
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2381
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV)
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-006F
Date: May 04, 2010
Subject: Information on Tire Radial Force Variation (RFV)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saab 9-7X 2000-2005 Saturn L Series 2003-2007 Saturn ION
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to considerably expand the available information on
Radial Force Variation (RFV) and should be reviewed in whole. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 00-03-10-006E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Important
- Before measuring tires on equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700, the vehicle MUST be driven
a minimum of 16 km (10 mi) to ensure removal of any flat-spotting. Refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-03-10-007E - Tire/Wheel Characteristics of GM Original Equipment Tires.
- Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 MUST be calibrated prior to measuring tire/wheel
assemblies for each vehicle.
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide guidance to GM dealers when using tire force variation
measurement equipment, such as the Hunter GSP9700. This type of equipment can be a valuable
tool in diagnosing vehicle ride concerns. The most common ride concern involving tire radial force
variation is highway speed shake on smooth roads.
Tire related smooth road highway speed shake can be caused by three conditions: imbalance, out
of round and tire force variation. These three conditions are not necessarily related. All three
conditions must be addressed.
Imbalance is normally addressed first, because it is the simpler of the three to correct. Off-vehicle,
two plane dynamic wheel balancers are readily available and can accurately correct any
imbalance. Balancer calibration and maintenance, proper attachment of the wheel to the balancer,
and proper balance weights, are all factors required for a quality balance. However, a perfectly
balanced tire/wheel assembly can still be "oval shaped" and cause a vibration.
Before balancing, perform the following procedures.
Tire and Wheel Diagnosis
1. Set the tire pressure to the placard values. 2. With the vehicle raised, ensure the wheels are
centered on the hub by loosening all wheel nuts and hand-tightening all nuts first by hand while
shaking the wheel, then torque to specifications using a torque wrench, NOT a torque stick.
3. Visually inspect the tires and the wheels. Inspect for evidence of the following conditions and
correct as necessary:
- Missing balance weights
- Bent rim flange
- Irregular tire wear
- Incomplete bead seating
- Tire irregularities (including pressure settings)
- Mud/ice build-up in wheel
- Stones in the tire tread
- Remove any aftermarket wheels and/or tires and restore vehicle to original condition prior to
diagnosing a smooth road shake condition.
4. Road test the vehicle using the Electronic Vibration Analyzer (EVA) essential tool. Drive for a
sufficient distance on a known, smooth road
surface to duplicate the condition. Determine if the vehicle is sensitive to brake apply. If the brakes
are applied lightly and the pulsation felt in the steering wheel increases, refer to the Brakes section
of the service manual that deals with brake-induced pulsation. If you can start to hear the vibration
as a low boom noise (in addition to feeling it), but cannot see it, the vehicle likely has a first order
(one pulse per propshaft revolution) driveline vibration. Driveline first order vibrations are high
enough in frequency that most humans can start to hear them at highway speeds, but are too high
to be able to be easily seen. These issues can be caused by driveline imbalance or misalignment.
If the vehicle exhibits this low boom and the booming pulses in-and-out on a regular basis (like a
throbbing), chances are good that the vehicle could have driveline vibration. This type
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2386
of vibration is normally felt more in the "seat of the pants" than the steering wheel.
5. Next, record the Hertz (Hz) reading as displayed by the EVA onto the tire data worksheet found
at the end of this bulletin. This should be done
after a tire break-in period of at least 16 km (10 mi) at 72 km/h (45 mph) or greater, in order to
eliminate any possible tire flat-spotting. This reading confirms what the vehicle vibration frequency
is prior to vehicle service and documents the amount of improvement occurring as the result of the
various steps taken to repair. Completing the Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet below is required.
A copy of the completed worksheet must be saved with the R.O. and a copy included with any
parts returned to the Warranty Parts Center for analysis. A reading of 35 to 50 Hz typically
indicates a first order propshaft vibration. If this is the situation, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
08-07-30-044D. Generally, a reading between 10 and 20 Hz indicates a tire/wheel vibration and if
this is the reading obtained, continue using this bulletin. If the tire 1st order vibration goes away
and stays away during this evaluation, the cause is likely tire flat-spotting. Tire flat-spotting vibration
may come and go at any speed over 72 km/h (45 mph) during the first 10 minutes of operation, if
vibration continues after 10 minutes of driving at speeds greater than 72 km/h (45 mph), tire
flat-spotting can be ruled out as the cause for vibration.
6. If flat-spotting is the cause, provide the explanation that this has occurred due to the vehicle
being parked for long periods of time and that the
nature of the tire is to take a set. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-03-10-007E: Information
on Tire/Wheel Characteristics (Vibration, Balance, Shake, Flat Spotting) of GM Original Equipment
Tires.
7. If the road test indicates a shake/vibration exists, check the imbalance of each tire/wheel
assembly on a known, calibrated, off-car dynamic
balancer.Make sure the mounting surface of the wheel and the surface of the balancer are
absolutely clean and free of debris. Be sure to chose the proper cone/collet for the wheel, and
always use the pilot bore for centering. Never center the wheel using the hub-cap bore since it is
not a precision machined surface. If any assembly calls for more than 1/4 ounce on either rim
flange, remove all balance weights and rebalance to as close to zero as possible. If you can see
the vibration (along with feeling it) in the steering wheel (driving straight without your hands on the
wheel), it is very likely to be a tire/wheel first order (one pulse per revolution) disturbance. First
order disturbances can be caused by imbalance as well as non-uniformities in tires, wheels or
hubs. This first order frequency is too low for a human to hear, but if the amplitude is high enough,
it can be seen.
If a vibration or shake still exists after balancing, any out of round conditions, of the wheel, and
force variation conditions of the tire, must be addressed. Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700
can address both (it is also a wheel balancer).
Tire radial force vibration (RFV) can be defined as the amount of stiffness variation the tire will
produce in one revolution under a constant load. Radial force variation is what the vehicle feels
because the load (weight) of the vehicle is always on the tires. Although free runout of tires (not
under load) is not always a good indicator of a smooth ride, it is critical that total tire/wheel
assembly runout be within specification.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 loads the tire, similar to on the vehicle, and measures
radial force variation of the tire/wheel assembly. Note that the wheel is affecting the tire's RFV
measurement at this point. To isolate the wheel, its runout must be measured. This can be easily
done on the Hunter, without the need to set up dial indicators. If the wheel meets the runout
specification, the tire's RFV can then be addressed.
After measuring the tire/wheel assembly under load, and the wheel alone, the machine then
calculates (predicts) the radial force variation of the tire. However, because this is a prediction that
can include mounting inaccuracies, and the load wheel is much smaller in diameter than used in
tire production, this type of service equipment should NOT be used to audit new tires. Rather, it
should be used as a service diagnostic tool to minimize radial force variation of the tire/wheel
assembly.
Equipment such as the Hunter GSP9700 does an excellent job of measuring wheel runout, and of
finding the low point of the wheel (for runout) and the high point of the tire (for radial force
variation). This allows the tire to be matched mounted to the wheel for lowest tire/wheel assembly
force variation.
The machine will simplify this process into easy steps. The following assembly radial force variation
numbers should be used as a guide:
When measuring RFV and match mounting tires perform the following steps.
Measuring Wheel Runout and Assembly Radial Force Variation
Important The completed worksheet at the end of this bulletin must be attached to the hard copy of
the repair order.
- Measure radial force variation and radial runout.
- If a road force/balancing machine is used, record the radial force variation (RFV) on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. It may be of benefit to have the lowest RFV assembly to the
front left corner. If the machine is not available and the EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap
the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem
still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do not exhibit the same frequency and swap those
tires onto the subject vehicle.
- If a runout/balancing machine is used, record the radial runout of the tire/wheel assemblies on the
worksheet at the end of this bulletin. If one or more of the tire/wheel assemblies are more than.040
in (1.02 mm), match mount the tire to the wheel to get below.040 in (1.02 mm). For sensitive
customers, readings of 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) or less are preferable, it may also be of benefit to
have the lowest runout assembly to the front left corner. If the machine is not available and the
EVA data suggests there is an issue, swap the tire and wheel assemblies from the front to the
back. Re-check on the EVA and if the problem still exists, test another vehicle to find tires that do
not exhibit the same frequency and swap those tires
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2387
onto the subject vehicle.
- After match mounting, the tire/wheel assembly must be rebalanced.
If match mounting tires to in-spec wheels produces assembly values higher than these, tire
replacement may be necessary. Replacing tires at lower values will probably mean good tires are
being condemned. Because tires can sometimes become temporarily flat-spotted, which will affect
force variation, it is important that the vehicle be driven at least 16 km (10 mi) prior to measuring.
Tire pressure must also be adjusted to the usage pressure on the vehicle's tire placard prior to
measuring.
Most GM vehicles will tolerate radial force variation up to these levels. However, some vehicles are
more sensitive, and may require lower levels. Also, there are other tire parameters that equipment
such as the Hunter GSP9700 cannot measure that may be a factor. In such cases, TAC should be
contacted for further instructions.
Important
- When mounting a GM wheel to a wheel balancer/force variation machine, always use the wheel's
center pilot hole. This is the primary centering mechanism on all GM wheels; the bolt holes are
secondary. Usually a back cone method to the machine should be used. For added accuracy and
repeatability, a flange plate should be used to clamp the wheel onto the cone and machine. This
system is offered by all balancer manufacturers in GM's dealer program.
- Any type of service equipment that removes tread rubber by grinding, buffing or truing is NOT
recommended, and may void the tire warranty. However, tires may have been ground by the tire
company as part of their tire manufacturing process. This is a legitimate procedure.
Steering Wheel Shake Worksheet
When diagnosing vibration concerns, use the following worksheet in conjunction with the
appropriate Vibration Analysis-Road testing procedure in the Vibration Correction sub-section in SI.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-006F > May > 10 > Wheels/Tires - Tire Radial Force
Variation (RFV) > Page 2388
Refer to the appropriate section of SI for specifications and repair procedures that are related to the
vibration concern.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 05-03-10-003F
Date: April 27, 2010
Subject: Low Tire Pressure, Leaking Cast Aluminum Wheels (Repair with Adhesive Sealant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X with Cast Aluminum Wheels
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and the bulletin reference
information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-03-10-003E (Section 03 - Suspension).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a low tire pressure condition.
Diagnosis of the low tire pressure condition indicates an air leak through the cast aluminum wheel.
Cause
Porosity in the cast aluminum wheel may be the cause.
Notice
This bulletin specifically addresses issues related to the wheel casting that may result in an air
leak. For issues related to corrosion of the wheel in service, please refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-03-10-006C - Tire Slowly Goes Flat, Tire Air Loss, Low Tire Pressure Warning Light
Illuminated, Aluminum Wheel Bead Seat Corrosion (Clean and Resurface Wheel Bead Seat).
Correction
1. Remove the tire and wheel assembly from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service
procedure in SI. 2. Locate the leaking area by inflating the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and dipping the
tire/wheel assembly in a water bath, or use a spray bottle with soap
and water to locate the specific leak location.
Important
- If the porosity leak is located in the bead area of the aluminum rim (where the tire meets the rim),
the wheel should be replaced.
- If two or more leaks are located on one wheel, the wheel should be replaced.
3. If air bubbles are observed, mark the location.
- If the leak location is on the tire/rubber area, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 04-03-10-001F Tire Puncture Repair Procedures for All Cars and Light Duty Trucks.
- If the leak is located on the aluminum wheel area, continue with the next step.
4. Inscribe a mark on the tire at the valve stem in order to indicate the orientation of the tire to the
wheel. 5. Dismount the tire from the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 6. Remove
the tire pressure sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor removal procedure in SI. 7. Scuff the
INSIDE rim surface at the leak area with #80 grit paper and clean the area with general purpose
cleaner, such as 3M(R) General Purpose
Adhesive Cleaner, P/N 08984, or equivalent.
8. Apply a 3 mm (0.12 in) thick layer of Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant, P/N 12378478 (in Canada, use
88900041), or equivalent, to the leak area. 9. Allow for the adhesive/sealant to dry.
Notice Caution must be used when mounting the tire so as not to damage the sealer. Damaging
the repair area may result in an air leak.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 05-03-10-003F > Apr > 10 > Tires/Wheels - Low Tire/Leaking Cast
Aluminum Wheels > Page 2393
10. Align the inscribed mark on the tire with the valve stem on the wheel. 11. Reinstall the Tire
Pressure Sensor. Refer to Tire Pressure Sensor installation procedure in SI. 12. Mount the tire on
the wheel. Refer to Tire Mounting and Dismounting. 13. Pressurize the tire to 276 kPa (40 psi) and
inspect for leaks. 14. Adjust tire pressure to meet the placard specification. 15. Balance the
tire/wheel assembly. Refer to Tire and Wheel Assembly Balancing - Off-Vehicle. 16. Install the tire
and wheel assembly onto the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate service procedure in SI.
Parts Information
Warranty Information (excluding Saab U.S. Models)
Important The Silicone - Adhesive/Sealant comes in a case quantity of six. ONLY charge warranty
one tube of adhesive/sealant per wheel repair.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
One leak repair per wheel.
Warranty Information (Saab U.S. Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table above.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated
Aluminum Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420
Wheel Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing
Technical Service Bulletin # 531703A Date: 960501
Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 53-17-03A
Date: May, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Aluminum Wheel Refinishing
Models: 1991-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being revised to delete the 1990 model year and add the 1996 model year. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 53-17-03 (Section 10 - Body).
This bulletin supersedes and cancels all previous service bulletins concerning the refinishing of
aluminum wheels. The purpose of this service bulletin is to assist dealerships in repairing the
discoloration or surface degradation that has occurred on styled aluminum wheels.
This bulletin provides NEW PROCEDURES AND SPECIFIC MATERIALS for the refinishing of
painted aluminum wheels or aluminum wheels with discoloration or surface degradation.
Important:
THE RE-MACHINING OF ALUMINUM WHEELS IS NOT RECOMMENDED. THE RE-CLEAR
COATING OF ALUMINUM WHEELS IS NO LONGER RECOMMENDED DUE TO CONCERNS OF
REPAIR DURABILITY
The new procedure requires the wheel surface be plastic media blasted to remove old paint or
clear coat. CHEMICAL STRIPPERS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.
Material Required
System 1: DuPont Products
3939-S Cleaning Solvent 615/616 Etching Primer URO 5000 Primer Surfacer IMRON 6000
Basecoat 3440-S IMRON Clear
System 2: PPG Products
DX533 Aluminum Cleaner DX503 Aluminum Conditioner DP Epoxy Primer Deltron Basecoat
(DBC) Concept 2001 Clear Acrylic Urethane
System 3: Spies Hecker
Permahyd Silicone Remover 7090 Permahyd 1:1 Primer 4070 Permahyd 2:1 Surfacer 5080
Permahyd Base Coat Series 280/285 Permahyd H.S. Clearcoat 8060
Color Selection
If the wheels being painted were previously clearcoated aluminum, we would recommend using
Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle SILVER WA9967 for a
very bright look. As an option to the customer, you may also use body color. For color
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page
2410
selection and verification, refer to your paint manufacturer's color book. On wheels that were
previous clearcoated aluminum it is recommended that all four wheels and their center caps be
refinished to maintain color uniformity.
Important:
THE PRODUCTS LISTED MUST BE USED AS A SYSTEM. DO NOT MIX OTHER
MANUFACTURERS' PRODUCT LINES WITH THE REQUIRED MATERIALS. PRODUCTS
LISTED IN THIS BULLETIN HAVE SHOWN THE REQUIRED REPAIR DURABILITY, AND
CURRENTLY ARE THE ONLY PAINT SYSTEMS THAT MEET GM SPECIFICATION
4350M-A336.
Procedures
1. Remove wheels from vehicle. Tires may remain mounted on wheels.
2. Remove balance weights and mark their location on tire.
3. Wipe excess grease, etc. from wheels with wax and grease remover.
4. Have wheels plastic media blasted to remove clearcoat. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON
MEDIA BLASTING IN YOUR AREA, CALL US TECHNOLOGIES INC., CONTACT DAVE
ROSENBURG AT 1-800-634-9185.
Caution:
IT IS MANDATORY THAT ADEQUATE RESPIRATORY PROTECTION BE WORN. EXAMPLES
OF SUCH PROTECTION ARE: AIR LINE RESPIRATORS WITH FULL HOOD OR HALF MASK. IF
NOT AVAILABLE, USE A VAPOR/PARTICULATE RESPIRATOR THAT RESPIRATOR
MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS AS EFFECTIVE FOR ISOCYANATE VAPOR AND MISTS
(UNLESS LOCAL REGULATIONS PREVAIL).
5. Painting Process
a. Refer to Attachments 1-3 for each System's individual formula and process.
b. After following the specific System's individual formula and process, follow these steps:
6. Unmask wheels.
7. Clean all wheel mounting surface of any corrosion, overspray, or dirt.
8. Install new coated balance weights, at marked locations.
9. Replace wheels on vehicle.
10. USE A TORQUE STICK ON AN IMPACT WRENCH, OR A TORQUE WRENCH TO
CONSISTENTLY AND UNIFORMLY FASTEN THE WHEEL TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE FOR
THE VEHICLE. THE STAR PATTERN MUST BE FOLLOWED.
Important:
TORQUE STICKS MUST BE USED ANY TIME AN IMPACT WRENCH IS USED TO TIGHTEN
WHEEL NUTS.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Attachment 1 - DuPont Products
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page
2411
Painting Process
System: Dupont Products
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver WA EQ9283 Dupont # C9143, Sparkle Silver WA9967
Dupont # C9339
1. Wipe wheel with cleaning solvent: 3939-S, 3949-S or 3900-S.
2. Mask off tires.
Important:
3. Mask off all wheel mounting surfaces and wheel mount surfaces.
4. Apply two coats of 615/616-S etching primer to wheel allowing 10 minutes flash between coats.
Allow to dry for 30 minutes before applying primer coat.
5. Apply URO 5000 primer 1220/193-S + accelerator 389-S using two coats at 65-70 PSI at the
gun. Allow 12-15 minutes between coats. Force bake 30 minutes at 140°F (60°C).
6. Scuff sand using green Scotch-Brite pad.
7. Solvent wipe before top coating.
8. Apply IMRON 6000 base coat to wheel. 2-3 coats to hiding at 60-70 PSI allowing to flash
between coats. Base coat needs to dry 20-30 minutes before clearcoat is applied.
9. Apply 3440-S clearcoat to wheel using two coats at 60-70 PSI. Flash 10-15 minutes between
coats. 389-S can be used in basecoat and clearcoat to give faster set up times.
10. Allow overnight dry before reassemble. Can be baked for 30 minutes at 140°F (60°C).
Attachment 2 - PPG Products
Painting Process: PPG System
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver WAEQ9283; PPG # DBC-3531, Sparkle Silver WA9967;
PPG # 35367
1. Wash entire wheel with aluminum cleaner DX533, mix 1:3 with water. Allow to react 2-3 minutes
and rinse thoroughly.
2. Wash entire wheel with aluminum conditioner DX5O3 straight from the container. Allow to react
2-3 minutes until pale gold or tan color develops. Rinse thoroughly and dry.
3. Mask off tires.
Important:
4. Mask off all wheel nut mounting surfaces and wheel mounting surfaces.
5. Apply 1-2 coats of DP Primer and allow to flash for 15-20 minutes.
6. Apply 2-3 coats of Deltron Basecoat (DBC) and allow to flash 20 minutes after the final coat.
7. Apply two (2) wet coats of Concept 2001 Acrylic urethane.
8. Flash 20 minutes and bake 140°F (60°C) for 30 minutes.
For more information contact your PPG Jobber.
Attachment 3 - Spies Hecker
Painting Process: Spies Hecker System
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver AWEQ9283; SH-72913, Sparkle Silver WA9967;
SH-71912
1. Clean with Permahyd Silicone Remover 7090.
2. Mask off tires.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page
2412
Important:
3. Mask off all wheel nut mounting surfaces and wheel mounting surfaces.
4. Apply 1-1/2 coats of Permahyd 1:1 Primer 4070. Mix 1:1 with Permahyd Hardener 3070 as per
TDS.
5. Allow to flash for 30 minutes.
6. Apply two (2) coats of Permahyd 2:1 Surfacer 5080. Mix 2:1 with Permahyd Hardener 3071 as
per TDS.
7. Bake for 60 minutes at 140°F (60°C) or allow to flash for 3 hours at 68°F (20°C).
8. Apply Permahyd Base Coat Series 280/285 as per TDS.
9. Allow to flash 10 to 15 minutes.
10. Apply 1 to 2 coats of Permacron High Solid Clear Coat 8060 as per TDS.
11. Allow to flash 10 minutes. Then bake at 140°F (60°C) for 40 minutes.
For more information, contact your SPIES HECKER Jobber.
We believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Staining/Pitting/Corrosion
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-03-10-002F
Date: April 21, 2011
Subject: Chemical Staining, Pitting, Corrosion and/or Spotted Appearance of Chromed Aluminum
Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years, suggest additional restorative
products and add additional corrosion information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
00-03-10-002E (Section 03 - Suspension). Important You may give a copy of this bulletin to the
customer.
What is Chemical Staining of Chrome Wheels? Figure 1
Chemical staining in most cases results from acid based cleaners (refer to Figure 1 for an
example). These stains are frequently milky, black, or greenish in appearance. They result from
using cleaning solutions that contain acids on chrome wheels. Soap and water is usually sufficient
to clean wheels.
If the customer insists on using a wheel cleaner they should only use one that specifically states
that it is safe for chromed wheels and does not contain anything in the following list. (Dealers
should also survey any products they use during prep or normal cleaning of stock units for these
chemicals.)
- Ammonium Bifluoride (fluoride source for dissolution of chrome)
- Hydrofluoric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Hydrochloric Acid (directly dissolves chrome)
- Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonic Acid
- Sulfamic Acid
- Phosphoric Acid
- Hydroxyacetic Acid
Notice
Many wheel cleaner instructions advise to take care to avoid contact with painted surfaces. Most
customers think of painted surfaces as the fenders, quarter panels and other exterior sheet metal.
Many vehicles have painted brake calipers. Acidic wheel cleaners may craze, crack, or discolor the
paint on the brake calipers. Damage from wheel cleaners is not covered under the vehicle new car
warranty. Soap and water applied with a soft brush is usually all that is required to clean the
calipers.
Whenever any wheel cleaner is used, it must be THOROUGHLY rinsed off of the wheel with clean,
clear water. Special care must be taken to rinse under the hub cap, balance weights, wheel nuts,
lug nut caps, between the wheel cladding and off the back side of the wheel. Wheels returned to
the Warranty Parts Center (WPC) that exhibit damage from wheel cleaners most often have the
damage around and under the wheel weight where the cleaner was incompletely flushed away.
Notice
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2418
Do not use cleaning solutions that contain hydrofluoric, oxalic and most other acids on chrome
wheels (or any wheels).
If the customer is unsure of the chemical make-up of a particular wheel cleaner, it should be
avoided.
For wheels showing signs of milky staining from acidic cleaners, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Warranty of Stained Chrome Wheels
Stained wheels are not warrantable. Most acid based cleaners will permanently stain chrome
wheels. Follow-up with dealers has confirmed that such cleaners were used on wheels that were
returned to the Warranty Parts Center (WPC). Any stained wheels received by the WPC will be
charged back to the dealership. To assist the customer, refer to Customer Assistance and
Instructions below.
Pitting or Spotted Appearance of Chrome Wheels Figure 2
A second type or staining or finish disturbance may result from road chemicals, such as calcium
chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads. The staining will look like small pitting (refer to
Figure 2). This staining will usually be on the leading edges of each wheel spoke, but may be
uniformly distributed. If a vehicle must be operated under such conditions, the chrome wheels
should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed as soon as conveniently
possible.
Important Road chemicals, such as calcium chloride used for dust control of unpaved roads, can
also stain chrome wheels. The staining will look like small pitting. This staining will usually be on
the leading edges of each wheel spoke. This is explained by the vehicle traveling in the forward
direction while being splashed by the road chemical. If a vehicle must be operated under such
conditions, the chrome wheels should be washed with mild soap and water and thoroughly rinsed
as soon as conveniently possible.
Warranty of Pitted or Spotted Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of road chemicals may be replaced one time.
Damage resulting from contact with these applied road chemicals is corrosive to the wheels finish
and may cause damage if the wheels are not kept clean.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean if they are operating the vehicle in an area that
applies calcium chloride or other dust controlling chemicals! "GM of Canada" dealers require prior
approval by the District Manager - Customer Care and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
"Stardust" Corrosion of Chrome Wheels Figure 3
A third type of finish disturbance results from prolonged exposure to brake dust and resultant
penetration of brake dust through the chrome. As brakes are applied hot particles of brake material
are thrown off and tend to be forced through the leading edge of the wheel spoke windows by
airflow. These
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2419
hot particles embed themselves in the chrome layer and create a small pit. If the material is allowed
to sit on the wheel while it is exposed to moisture or salt, it will corrode the wheel beneath the
chrome leaving a pit or small blister in the chrome.
Heavy brake dust build-up should be removed from wheels by using GM Chrome Cleaner and
Polish, P/N 1050173 (in Canada use 10953013). For moderate cleaning, light brake dust build-up
or water spots use GM Swirl Remover Polish, P/N 12377965 (in Canada, use Meguiars
Plast-X(TM) Clear Plastic Cleaner and Polish #G12310C**). After cleaning, the wheel should be
waxed using GM Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, use Meguiars Cleaner Wax
#M0616C**), which will help protect the wheel from brake dust and reduce adhesion of any brake
dust that gets on the wheel surface. For general maintenance cleaning, PEEK Metal Polish† may
be used. It will clean and shine the chrome and leave behind a wax coating that may help protect
the finish.
Warranty of Stardust Corroded Chrome Wheels
Wheels returned with pitting or spotting as a result of neglect and brake dust build-up may be
replaced one time.
Important Notify the customer that this is a one time replacement. Please stress to the customer
the vital importance of keeping the wheels clean and free of prolonged exposure to brake dust
build-up. "GM of Canada" dealers require prior approval by the District Manager - Customer Care
and Service Process (DM-CCSP).
Customer Assistance and Instructions
GM has looked for ways customers may improve the appearance of wheels damaged by acidic
cleaners. The following product and procedure has been found to dramatically improve the
appearance of stained wheels. For wheels that have milky stains caused by acidic cleaners try the
following:
Notice
THE 3M CHROME AND METAL POLISH REQUIRED FOR THIS PROCEDURE IS AN
EXTREMELY AGGRESSIVE POLISH/CLEANER. THE WHEELS MUST BE CLEANED BEFORE
APPLICATION TO AVOID SCRATCHING THE WHEEL SURFACE. THIS PRODUCT WILL
REDUCE THE THICKNESS OF THE CHROME PLATING ON THE WHEEL AND IF USED
INCORRECTLY OR EXCESSIVELY MAY REMOVE THE CHROME PLATING ALL TOGETHER,
EXPOSING A LESS BRIGHT AND BRASSY COLORED SUB-LAYER. FOLLOW INSTRUCTIONS
EXACTLY.
1. Wash the wheels with vigorously with soap and water. This step will clean and may reduce
wheel staining. Flood all areas of the wheel with water
to rinse.
2. Dry the wheels completely.
Notice Begin with a small section of the wheel and with light pressure buff off polish and examine
results. ONLY apply and rub with sufficient force and time to remove enough staining that you are
satisfied with the results. Some wheels may be stained to the extent that you may only achieve a
50% improvement while others may be able to be restored to the original lustre. IN ALL CASES,
only apply until the results are satisfactory.
3. Apply 3M Chrome and Metal Polish #39527* with a clean terry cloth towel. As you apply the
polish, the staining will be diminished. 4. When dry, buff off the polish with a clean portion of the
towel. 5. Repeat application of the 3M Chrome and Metal Polish until satisfied with the results. If
continued applications fail to improve the appearance
further discontinue use.
This procedure will improve the appearance of the wheels and may, with repeated applications,
restore the finish dramatically. For wheels that exhibit spotting from road chemicals the above
procedure may marginally improve the condition but will not restore the finish or remove the pitting.
In this type of staining the wheel finish has actually been removed in spots and no manner of
cleaning will restore the finish.
†*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may
be available from other sources.
Parts Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 00-03-10-002F > Apr > 11 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel
Staining/Pitting/Corrosion > Page 2420
*This product is currently available from 3M. To obtain information for your local retail location
please call 3M at 1-888-364-3577.
**This product is currently available from Meguiars (Canada). To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Meguiars at 1-800-347-5700 or at www.meguiarscanada.com.
^ This product is currently available from Tri-Peek International. To obtain information for your local
retail location please call Tri-Peek at
1-877-615-4272 or at www.tripeek.com.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 99-08-51-007E
Date: March 17, 2011
Subject: Refinishing Aluminum Wheels
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add additional model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-08-51-007D (Section 08 - Body and Accessories).
This bulletin updates General Motor's position on refinishing aluminum wheels. GM does not
endorse any repairs that involve welding, bending, straightening or re-machining. Only cosmetic
refinishing of the wheel's coatings, using recommended procedures, is allowed.
Evaluating Damage
In evaluating damage, it is the GM Dealer's responsibility to inspect the wheel for corrosion,
scrapes, gouges, etc. The Dealer must insure that such damage is not deeper than what can be
sanded or polished off. The wheel must be inspected for cracks. If cracks are found, discard the
wheel. Any wheels with bent rim flanges must not be repaired or refinished. Wheels that have been
refinished by an outside company must be returned to the same vehicle. The Dealer must record
the wheel ID stamp or the cast date on the wheel in order to assure this requirement. Refer to
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later in this bulletin.
Aluminum Wheel Refinishing Recommendations
- Chrome-plated aluminum wheels Re-plating these wheels is not recommended.
- Polished aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them. If the
clearcoat is damaged, refinishing is possible. However, the required refinishing process cannot be
performed in the dealer environment. Refer to Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company later
in this bulletin.
- Painted aluminum wheels These wheels are painted using a primer, color coat, and clearcoat
procedure. If the paint is damaged, refinishing is possible. As with polished wheels, all original
coatings must be removed first. Media blasting is recommended. Refer to GM Aluminum
Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for the re-painting of this type of wheel.
- Bright, machined aluminum wheels These wheels have a polyester or acrylic clearcoat on them.
In some cases, the recessed "pocket" areas of the wheel may be painted. Surface refinishing is
possible. The wheel must be totally stripped by media blasting or other suitable means. The wheel
should be resurfaced by using a sanding process rather than a machining process. This allows the
least amount of material to be removed.
Important Do not use any re-machining process that removes aluminum. This could affect the
dimensions and function of the wheel.
Painting is an option to re-clearcoating polished and bright machined aluminum wheels. Paint will
better mask any surface imperfections and is somewhat more durable than clearcoat alone. GM
recommends using Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle
SILVER WA9967 for a very bright look. As an option, the body color may also be used. When using
any of the painting options, it is recommended that all four wheels be refinished in order to maintain
color uniformity. Refer to GM Aluminum Refinishing Bulletin #53-17-03A for specific procedures
and product recommendations.
Refinisher's Responsibility - Outside Company
Important Some outside companies are offering wheel refinishing services. Such refinished wheels
will be permanently marked by the refinisher and are warranted by the refinisher. Any process that
re-machines or otherwise re-manufactures the wheel should not be used.
A refinisher's responsibility includes inspecting for cracks using the Zyglo system or the equivalent.
Any cracked wheels must not be refinished. No welding, hammering or reforming of any kind is
allowed. The wheel ID must be recorded and follow the wheel throughout the process in order to
assure that the same wheel is returned. A plastic media blast may be used for clean up of the
wheel. Hand and/or lathe sanding of the machined surface and the wheel window is allowed.
Material removal, though, must be kept to a minimum. Re-machining of the wheel is not allowed.
Paint and/or clear coat must not be present on the following surfaces: the nut chamfers, the wheel
mounting surfaces and the wheel pilot hole. The refinisher must permanently ID stamp the wheel
and warrant the painted/clearcoated surfaces for a minimum of one year or the remainder of the
new vehicle warranty, whichever is
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-08-51-007E > Mar > 11 > Wheels/Tires - Refinishing Aluminum
Wheels > Page 2425
longer.
Important Whenever a wheel is refinished, the mounting surface and the wheel nut contact
surfaces must not be painted or clearcoated. Coating these surfaces could affect the wheel nut
torque.
When re-mounting a tire on an aluminum wheel, coated balance weights must be used in order to
reduce the chance of future cosmetic damage.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Changing Procedures/Precautions
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 06-03-10-010A
Date: June 09, 2010
Subject: Information on Proper Wheel Changing Procedures and Cautions
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER Models 2005-2009 Saab
9-7X 2005-2009 Saturn Vehicles
Attention:
Complete wheel changing instructions for each vehicle line can be found under Tire and Wheel
Removal and Installation in Service Information (SI). This bulletin is intended to quickly review and
reinforce simple but vital procedures to reduce the possibility of achieving low torque during wheel
installation. Always refer to SI for wheel lug nut torque specifications and complete jacking
instructions for safe wheel changing.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include the 2011 model year and update the available
special tool list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-10-010 (Section 03 Suspension).
Frequency of Wheel Changes - Marketplace Driven
Just a few years ago, the increasing longevity of tires along with greater resistance to punctures
had greatly reduced the number of times wheels were removed to basically required tire rotation
intervals. Today with the booming business in accessory wheels/special application tires (such as
winter tires), consumers are having tire/wheel assemblies removed - replaced - or installed more
than ever. With this increased activity, it opens up more of a chance for error on the part of the
technician. This bulletin will review a few of the common concerns and mistakes to make yourself
aware of.
Proper Servicing Starts With the Right Tools
The following tools have been made available to assist in proper wheel and tire removal and
installation.
- J 41013 Rotor Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
- J 42450-A Wheel Hub Resurfacing Kit (or equivalent)
Corroded Surfaces
One area of concern is corrosion on the mating surfaces of the wheel to the hub on the vehicle.
Excessive corrosion, dirt, rust or debris built up on these surfaces can mimic a properly tightened
wheel in the service stall. Once the vehicle is driven, the debris may loosen, grind up or be washed
away from water splash. This action may result in clearance at the mating surface of the wheel and
an under-torqued condition.
Caution
Before installing a wheel, remove any buildup on the wheel mounting surface and brake drum or
brake disc mounting surface. Installing wheels with poor metal-to-metal contact at the mounting
surfaces can cause wheel nuts to loosen. This may cause a wheel to come off when the vehicle is
moving, possibly resulting in a loss of control or personal injury.
Whenever you remove the tire/wheel assemblies, you must inspect the mating surfaces. If
corrosion is found, you should remove the debris with a die grinder equipped with a fine sanding
pad, wire brush or cleaning disc. Just remove enough material to assure a clean, smooth mating
surface.
The J 41013 (or equivalent) can be used to clean the following surfaces:
- The hub mounting surface
- The brake rotor mounting surface
- The wheel mounting surface
Use the J 42450-A (or equivalent) to clean around the base of the studs and the hub.
Lubricants, Grease and Fluids
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2430
Some customers may use penetrating oils, grease or other lubricants on wheel studs to aid in
removal or installation. Always use a suitable cleaner/solvent to remove these lubricants prior to
installing the wheel and tire assemblies. Lubricants left on the wheel studs may cause improper
readings of wheel nut torque. Always install wheels to clean, dry wheel studs ONLY.
Notice
Lubricants left on the wheel studs or vertical mounting surfaces between the wheel and the rotor or
drum may cause the wheel to work itself loose after the vehicle is driven. Always install wheels to
clean, dry wheel studs and surfaces ONLY. Beginning with 2011 model year vehicles, put a light
coating of grease, GM P/N 1051344 (in Canada, P/N 9930370), on the inner surface of the wheel
pilot hole to prevent wheel seizure to the axle or bearing hub.
Wheel Stud and Lug Nut Damage
Always inspect the wheel studs and lug nuts for signs of damage from crossthreading or abuse.
You should never have to force wheel nuts down the stud. Lug nuts that are damaged may not
retain properly, yet give the impression of fully tightening. Always inspect and replace any
component suspected of damage.
Tip
Always start wheel nuts by hand! Be certain that all wheel nut threads have been engaged
BEFORE tightening the nut.
Important If the vehicle has directional tread tires, verify the directional arrow on the outboard side
of the tire is pointing in the direction of forward rotation.
Wheel Nut Tightening and Torque
Improper wheel nut tightening can lead to brake pulsation and rotor damage. In order to avoid
additional brake repairs, evenly tighten the wheel nuts to the proper torque specification as shown
for each vehicle in SI. Always observe the proper wheel nut tightening sequence as shown below in
order to avoid trapping the wheel on the wheel stud threads or clamping the wheel slightly off
center resulting in vibration.
The Most Important Service You Provide
While the above information is well known, and wheel removal so common, technicians run the risk
of becoming complacent on this very important
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 06-03-10-010A > Jun > 10 > Wheels - Changing
Procedures/Precautions > Page 2431
service operation. A simple distraction or time constraint that rushes the job may result in personal
injury if the greatest of care is not exercised. Make it a habit to double check your work and to
always side with caution when installing wheels.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 04-03-10-012B > Feb > 08 > Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust
Accumulation/Pitting
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Chrome Wheel Brake Dust Accumulation/Pitting
Bulletin No.: 04-03-10-012B
Date: February 01, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: Pitting and Brake Dust on Chrome wheels
Models: 2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) 2008 and Prior
HUMMER H2, H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
04-03-10-012A (Section 03 - Suspension).
Analysis of Returned Wheels
Chrome wheels returned under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty for pitting concerns have
recently been evaluated. This condition is usually most severe in the vent (or window) area of the
front wheels. This "pitting" may actually be brake dust that has been allowed to accumulate on the
wheel. The longer this accumulation builds up, the more difficult it is to remove.
Cleaning the Wheels
In all cases, the returned wheels could be cleaned to their original condition using GM Vehicle Care
Cleaner Wax, P/N 12377966 (in Canada, P/N 10952905). When using this product, you should
confine your treatment to the areas of the wheel that show evidence of the brake dust build-up.
This product is only for use on chromed steel or chromed aluminum wheels.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Wheel replacement for this condition is NOT applicable under the terms of the New Vehicle Limited
Warranty.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 99-03-10-102 > Jun > 99 > Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum
Wheel ID
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - OE Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel ID
File In Section: 03 - Suspension
Bulletin No.: 99-03-10-102
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Original Equipment Chrome Plated Aluminum Wheel Identification
Models: 1999 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Chrome plated aluminum wheels have been returned to the Warranty Parts Center that are not the
original equipment (OE) components.
Original equipment chrome plated aluminum wheels can be identified by either a balance weight
clip retention groove (1) or a step (2) that is machined around both of the wheel's rim flanges. The
rim flanges (3) of painted original equipment aluminum wheels do not have a groove or a step.
Chrome plated aluminum wheels that do not have the wheel rim flange groove or step are
aftermarket chrome plated components and are NOT warrantable. Any aftermarket chrome wheels
received by the Warranty Parts Center will be charged back to the dealership.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 72-05-05 > Aug > 97 > Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel
Replace
Wheels: All Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Guidelines for Using E0420 Wheel Replace
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No.: 72-05-05
Date: August, 1997
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: Guidelines for Using EO42O Wheel Replace
Models: 1989-98 Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
The purpose of this bulletin is to provide service personnel with guidelines for using the above
subject labor operation.
Effective with repair orders dated on or after September 1, 1997, dealers are to be guided by the
following:
^ Aluminum Wheels (including chrome plated) with Porosity - Wheels that exhibit porosity should
be repaired as described in the vehicle service manual. Wheels should not be replaced without
wholesale approval.
^ Aluminum Wheels (except chrome plated) with a "Finish Defect" - Wheels that exhibit a defect in
the finish, (i.e., discoloration or surface degradation) should be refinished as described in the
Corporate Service Bulletin Number 53-17-03A released in May, 1996.
^ Chrome Wheels - Wheels that are chromed and found to have a finish defect can only be
replaced.
^ Aluminum and chrome wheels replaced under warranty will be subject to random part review and
inspection. Those wheels inspected and found not to be defective and/or should have been
repaired, will be subject to charge back.
Wheels damaged by normal wear, road hazards, car wash brushes, or other physical or chemical
damage are not eligible for warranty coverage.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing
Technical Service Bulletin # 531703A Date: 960501
Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing
File In Section: 10 - Body
Bulletin No.: 53-17-03A
Date: May, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Aluminum Wheel Refinishing
Models: 1991-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being revised to delete the 1990 model year and add the 1996 model year. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 53-17-03 (Section 10 - Body).
This bulletin supersedes and cancels all previous service bulletins concerning the refinishing of
aluminum wheels. The purpose of this service bulletin is to assist dealerships in repairing the
discoloration or surface degradation that has occurred on styled aluminum wheels.
This bulletin provides NEW PROCEDURES AND SPECIFIC MATERIALS for the refinishing of
painted aluminum wheels or aluminum wheels with discoloration or surface degradation.
Important:
THE RE-MACHINING OF ALUMINUM WHEELS IS NOT RECOMMENDED. THE RE-CLEAR
COATING OF ALUMINUM WHEELS IS NO LONGER RECOMMENDED DUE TO CONCERNS OF
REPAIR DURABILITY
The new procedure requires the wheel surface be plastic media blasted to remove old paint or
clear coat. CHEMICAL STRIPPERS ARE NOT RECOMMENDED.
Material Required
System 1: DuPont Products
3939-S Cleaning Solvent 615/616 Etching Primer URO 5000 Primer Surfacer IMRON 6000
Basecoat 3440-S IMRON Clear
System 2: PPG Products
DX533 Aluminum Cleaner DX503 Aluminum Conditioner DP Epoxy Primer Deltron Basecoat
(DBC) Concept 2001 Clear Acrylic Urethane
System 3: Spies Hecker
Permahyd Silicone Remover 7090 Permahyd 1:1 Primer 4070 Permahyd 2:1 Surfacer 5080
Permahyd Base Coat Series 280/285 Permahyd H.S. Clearcoat 8060
Color Selection
If the wheels being painted were previously clearcoated aluminum, we would recommend using
Corsican SILVER WAEQ9283 for a fine "aluminum-like" look or Sparkle SILVER WA9967 for a
very bright look. As an option to the customer, you may also use body color. For color
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page 2448
selection and verification, refer to your paint manufacturer's color book. On wheels that were
previous clearcoated aluminum it is recommended that all four wheels and their center caps be
refinished to maintain color uniformity.
Important:
THE PRODUCTS LISTED MUST BE USED AS A SYSTEM. DO NOT MIX OTHER
MANUFACTURERS' PRODUCT LINES WITH THE REQUIRED MATERIALS. PRODUCTS
LISTED IN THIS BULLETIN HAVE SHOWN THE REQUIRED REPAIR DURABILITY, AND
CURRENTLY ARE THE ONLY PAINT SYSTEMS THAT MEET GM SPECIFICATION
4350M-A336.
Procedures
1. Remove wheels from vehicle. Tires may remain mounted on wheels.
2. Remove balance weights and mark their location on tire.
3. Wipe excess grease, etc. from wheels with wax and grease remover.
4. Have wheels plastic media blasted to remove clearcoat. FOR FURTHER INFORMATION ON
MEDIA BLASTING IN YOUR AREA, CALL US TECHNOLOGIES INC., CONTACT DAVE
ROSENBURG AT 1-800-634-9185.
Caution:
IT IS MANDATORY THAT ADEQUATE RESPIRATORY PROTECTION BE WORN. EXAMPLES
OF SUCH PROTECTION ARE: AIR LINE RESPIRATORS WITH FULL HOOD OR HALF MASK. IF
NOT AVAILABLE, USE A VAPOR/PARTICULATE RESPIRATOR THAT RESPIRATOR
MANUFACTURER RECOMMENDS AS EFFECTIVE FOR ISOCYANATE VAPOR AND MISTS
(UNLESS LOCAL REGULATIONS PREVAIL).
5. Painting Process
a. Refer to Attachments 1-3 for each System's individual formula and process.
b. After following the specific System's individual formula and process, follow these steps:
6. Unmask wheels.
7. Clean all wheel mounting surface of any corrosion, overspray, or dirt.
8. Install new coated balance weights, at marked locations.
9. Replace wheels on vehicle.
10. USE A TORQUE STICK ON AN IMPACT WRENCH, OR A TORQUE WRENCH TO
CONSISTENTLY AND UNIFORMLY FASTEN THE WHEEL TO THE SPECIFIED TORQUE FOR
THE VEHICLE. THE STAR PATTERN MUST BE FOLLOWED.
Important:
TORQUE STICKS MUST BE USED ANY TIME AN IMPACT WRENCH IS USED TO TIGHTEN
WHEEL NUTS.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use as shown.
Attachment 1 - DuPont Products
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page 2449
Painting Process
System: Dupont Products
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver WA EQ9283 Dupont # C9143, Sparkle Silver WA9967
Dupont # C9339
1. Wipe wheel with cleaning solvent: 3939-S, 3949-S or 3900-S.
2. Mask off tires.
Important:
3. Mask off all wheel mounting surfaces and wheel mount surfaces.
4. Apply two coats of 615/616-S etching primer to wheel allowing 10 minutes flash between coats.
Allow to dry for 30 minutes before applying primer coat.
5. Apply URO 5000 primer 1220/193-S + accelerator 389-S using two coats at 65-70 PSI at the
gun. Allow 12-15 minutes between coats. Force bake 30 minutes at 140°F (60°C).
6. Scuff sand using green Scotch-Brite pad.
7. Solvent wipe before top coating.
8. Apply IMRON 6000 base coat to wheel. 2-3 coats to hiding at 60-70 PSI allowing to flash
between coats. Base coat needs to dry 20-30 minutes before clearcoat is applied.
9. Apply 3440-S clearcoat to wheel using two coats at 60-70 PSI. Flash 10-15 minutes between
coats. 389-S can be used in basecoat and clearcoat to give faster set up times.
10. Allow overnight dry before reassemble. Can be baked for 30 minutes at 140°F (60°C).
Attachment 2 - PPG Products
Painting Process: PPG System
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver WAEQ9283; PPG # DBC-3531, Sparkle Silver WA9967;
PPG # 35367
1. Wash entire wheel with aluminum cleaner DX533, mix 1:3 with water. Allow to react 2-3 minutes
and rinse thoroughly.
2. Wash entire wheel with aluminum conditioner DX5O3 straight from the container. Allow to react
2-3 minutes until pale gold or tan color develops. Rinse thoroughly and dry.
3. Mask off tires.
Important:
4. Mask off all wheel nut mounting surfaces and wheel mounting surfaces.
5. Apply 1-2 coats of DP Primer and allow to flash for 15-20 minutes.
6. Apply 2-3 coats of Deltron Basecoat (DBC) and allow to flash 20 minutes after the final coat.
7. Apply two (2) wet coats of Concept 2001 Acrylic urethane.
8. Flash 20 minutes and bake 140°F (60°C) for 30 minutes.
For more information contact your PPG Jobber.
Attachment 3 - Spies Hecker
Painting Process: Spies Hecker System
Paint Color Information: Corsican Silver AWEQ9283; SH-72913, Sparkle Silver WA9967;
SH-71912
1. Clean with Permahyd Silicone Remover 7090.
2. Mask off tires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheels > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheels: > 531703A > May > 96 > Aluminum Wheels - Refinishing > Page 2450
Important:
3. Mask off all wheel nut mounting surfaces and wheel mounting surfaces.
4. Apply 1-1/2 coats of Permahyd 1:1 Primer 4070. Mix 1:1 with Permahyd Hardener 3070 as per
TDS.
5. Allow to flash for 30 minutes.
6. Apply two (2) coats of Permahyd 2:1 Surfacer 5080. Mix 2:1 with Permahyd Hardener 3071 as
per TDS.
7. Bake for 60 minutes at 140°F (60°C) or allow to flash for 3 hours at 68°F (20°C).
8. Apply Permahyd Base Coat Series 280/285 as per TDS.
9. Allow to flash 10 to 15 minutes.
10. Apply 1 to 2 coats of Permacron High Solid Clear Coat 8060 as per TDS.
11. Allow to flash 10 minutes. Then bake at 140°F (60°C) for 40 minutes.
For more information, contact your SPIES HECKER Jobber.
We believe these sources and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers
of such products. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any
responsibility for the products or equipment from these firms or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Adjustments
> Front
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove wheel cover, if equipped. 3. Remove cap from hub/disc
assembly. 4. Remove cotter pin. 5. Tighten nut (12), Fig. 5, to 12 ft lbs, while turning wheel forward
by hand. This will seat the bearing. 6. Loosen nut (12) to a just loose position, then back nut off
until hole in the spindle aligns with a slot in the nut. Do not back the nut off more than
1/2 flat.
INSTALL
1. New cotter pin. With wheel bearing properly adjusted, there will be .001---.005 inch endplay.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Adjustments
> Front > Page 2455
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments Rear
Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake flange
plate will be barely noticeable and the wheel will turn freely. If the movement is excessive, adjust
the bearings as follows:
1. Back off attaching nut until just loose, but not more than one slot of the lock or the axle spindle
using wheel bearing nut wrench tool No. J-2222-C or equivalent.
2. Align adjusting nut slot with keyway in the axle spindle.
Rockwell Full Floating Axle
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of hub or disc will be barely noticeable. If the
movement is excessive, adjust the bearings as follows:
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove axle shaft. 3. Remove retaining nut and lock washer. 4.
Using nut wrench tool No. J-25510, or equivalent, torque adjusting nut, with hub rotating, to 50.0 ft.
lbs. Ensure bearing surfaces are in contact,
then back adjusting nut off 1/8 turn.
5. Install lock washer, the bend tang over flat of adjusting nut. 6. Install retaining nut and torque to
250 ft. lbs. 7. Install axle shaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Bearing > Component Information > Service and
Repair > Front > Page 2458
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove axle shaft.
3. Remove hub and drum.
4. Remove oil seal, inner bearing and retaining ring.
5. Remove outer bearing.
6. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Hub > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Wheel Hub: Service and Repair
FRONT HUB/BEARING
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: Customer Interest Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Loose/Missing > Page 2470
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Fastener: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04 > Wheels - Plastic Wheel
Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 2476
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Fastener > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Page 2477
Wheel Fastener: Specifications Wheel Stud Nut
Wheel Stud Nut
Vehicles with 5 Lugs 140 ft.lb
Vehicles with 6 Lugs 140 ft.lb
Vehicles with 8 Lugs 140 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Wheels and Tires > Wheel Seal > Component Information > Service and
Repair
Wheel Seal: Service and Repair
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Maintenance > Vehicle Lifting > Component Information > Service and Repair
Vehicle Lifting: Service and Repair
Fig. 12 Vehicle Lift Points.
Fig. 12 Vehicle Lift Points.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Compression Check > System Information >
Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Minimum, 698 kPa (100 psi) @ 200 rpm. The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80%
of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs
removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications
Camshaft: Specifications
Engine Liter/CID ..................................................................................................................................
............................................................. 5.7L/V8-350
All specifications given in inches.
Camshaft Journal Diameter .................................................................................................................
............................................................ 1.8677-1.8697 Camshaft Endplay ..........................................
.................................................................................................................................................
0.0040-0.0120
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Camshaft,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2493
Camshaft: Service and Repair
Depending on vehicle and engine application, the grille, radiator and condenser, may need to be
removed before removing the camshaft.
1. Remove intake manifold. 2. Remove pushrods and valve lifters. 3. Remove Front Cover. Then
the distributor. 4. Remove camshaft sprocket bolts and timing chain. 5. Remove camshaft sprocket.
6. Install two 5/16 18 x 4-5 inch bolts into camshaft bolt holes, then pull camshaft out of cylinder
block. 7. Reverse procedure to install. 8. Tighten camshaft sprocket bolts to specifications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Push Rod >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Push Rod: Service and Repair
When a replacement pushrod has a paint stripe at one end, this painted end must be installed in
contact with the rocker arm. To provide durability a hardened insert is incorporated in the rocker
arm end of these pushrods.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Camshaft, Lifters and Push Rods > Rocker Arm
Assembly > Component Information > Service and Repair
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
Rocker arm stud removal
Rocker arm stud installation
Remove the old stud by placing a suitable spacer over the stud, Fig. 13. Install a nut and flat
washer on the stud and pull out the stud by turning the nut. After reaming the hole for an oversize
stud, coat the press-fit area of the new stud with rear axle lubricant. Install the stud using stud
driver tool No. 6880, or equivalent, by driving it in until tool bottoms on the head, Fig.14.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Connecting Rod Bearing - Clearance Checking Tool
Connecting Rod Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins Connecting Rod Bearing - Clearance
Checking Tool
BULLETIN NUMBER: 00-06-01-007
SECTION: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
DATE: March 2000
INFORMATION
SUBJECT: Essential Tool J 43690 - Rod Bearing Clearance Checking Tool
MODELS: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G and P
Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINs W, M, R - RPOs L35,
L30, L31)
A new service tool J 43690 and the supporting service procedure have been developed to more
accurately measure connecting rod bearing clearances. Engines with excessive connecting rod
bearing clearances may exhibit a cold knock/bearing rattle type noise (refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 99-06-01-003).
Typically, this noise occurs at initial start-up and may be audible up to 1,500 - 1,800 RPM. The rod
bearing knock typically diminishes or goes away at normal operating temperature. Tool J 43690
permits measurement of connecting rod bearing clearances without removing the connecting rod
bolts, bearing cap, and bearings. The selective fitting of the connecting rod bearings is necessary
in order to obtain close tolerances. For this reason, standard and undersized bearings are
available. While the micrometer method of measuring for bearing clearances is acceptable, the use
of J 43690 is the preferred method. The use of plastic gauging material will result in unreliable
measurements and is not to be used.
Follow the tool instructions included with the tool or the revised electronic service information.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2505
Connecting Rod Bearing: Specifications
Connecting rod bearing inserts are available in standard size and undersizes of .001 inch, .002
inch, .010 inch and .020 inch. The bearings can be replaced without removing the rod assembly by
removing the cap and replacing the upper and lower halves of the bearing.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Connecting Rod,
Engine > Component Information > Specifications
Connecting Rod: Specifications
Torque Specifications 45 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise
Technical Service Bulletin # 99-06-01-003 Date: 990401
Engine - Bearing Knock Noise
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-01-003
Date: April, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Engine Bearing Knock Noise, (Re-support Crankshaft, Select-fit Undersize Connecting
Rod Bearings)
Models: 1999 Cadillac Escalade 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with 5.0L or 5.7L
Engine (VINs M, R - RPOs L30, L31)
Important:
GM Canada Dealers require prior DSM authorization to apply this bulletin.
Condition
Some customers may comment about an engine "knocking" noise.
Cause
A condition may exist in some engines where, the crankshaft is NOT being evenly supported by all
five crankshaft bearing inserts. In these engines, the number 1, 2, 3, and 4 crankshaft bearing
inserts are supporting the crankshaft, and the number 5 crankshaft journal (rear) has excessive
clearance relative to the number 5 crankshaft (main) bearing cap insert. In this condition, the
crankshaft flexes under load, and pounds on the lower number 5 crankshaft (main) bearing insert
creating the knocking sound. The engines were originally built with 0.0006 in. undersize crankshaft
(main) bearing inserts in the number 2, 3, and 4 crankshaft (main) bearing locations and 0.001 in.
undersize insert in the number 5 crankshaft (main) bearing location. The service procedure listed
below addresses the above condition by lowering the crankshaft at the number 2, 3, and 4
crankshaft (main) bearing positions (increased crankshaft (main) bearing size of the lower
crankshaft (main) bearing inserts) and raising the number 5 lower crankshaft (main) bearing insert
(undersized insert) in order to properly contact the number 5 crankshaft journal surface. These
engines may also exhibit a connecting rod knocking sound. In these engines, the connecting rod
knocking sound is caused by excessive connecting rod bearing clearance.
A customer concern vehicle may exhibit one or both of the above stated conditions.
Correction
Follow strategy-based diagnostics for engine noise listed in the front of Section 6 of the Service
Manual.
Some additional key points:
Rod Bearing Knock - Occurs on initial engine start-up, and can also be heard as high as
1,500-1,800 RPM. Rod bearing knock typically diminishes or completely goes away when the
engine reaches normal operating temperature.
Crankshaft Bearing Knock - Crankshaft (main) bearing knock sounds deeper in the engine and also
sounds more muffled. There are two different types of crankshaft bearing knock.
^ Short duration cold knock typically occurs for 1-5 seconds on engine cold start-up only, and
almost always occurs on vehicles equipped with an engine oil cooler.
^ Hot knock occurs less frequently, typically occurring in very hot ambient temperatures, and can
be heard up to 2,000 RPM.
Technicians can increase the likelihood of reproducing bearing induced knock sounds by slightly
depressing the accelerator pedal while starting the engine.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2513
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J1150 Use published labor time
Crankshaft Bearing Service Procedure
Important:
The repair procedure must be performed using all steps (addressing both the crankshaft bearings
and connecting rod bearings) in order to ensure the effectiveness of the repair procedure.
1. Remove the oil pump. Refer to Oil Pump Replacement in Engine Mechanical section of the
Vehicle Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2514
Important:
Do not loosen or attempt to service the number 1 (front) crankshaft (main) bearing cap or the
number 1 crankshaft (main) bearings.
2. Mark the number 2, 3, 4, and 5 crankshaft (main) bearing caps with position and direction. The
crankshaft (main) bearing caps MUST be reinstalled in the original position and direction.
3. Support the crankshaft using a screw type jack and a block of wood.
3.1. Position the screw type jack and the block of wood at the center of the crankshaft in order to
properly support the crankshaft.
3.2. Turn the screw of the screw type jack until the crankshaft is firmly seated against the
crankshaft (main) upper bearings.
4. Remove the number 5 crankshaft (main) bearing cap bolts, and the number 5 crankshaft (main)
bearing cap with the crankshaft (main) lower bearing.
5. Using green plastigauge (designed for measuring 0.001-0.003 in. of clearance), lay two pieces, 2
inches in length, laterally along the number 5 lower crankshaft (main) bearing, 1/4 inch inboard
from the insert outer edges. Re-install the bearing cap.
Tighten
5.1. Tighten the bearing cap bolts on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
5.2. Tighten the bearing cap bolts on the final pass to 73 degrees using the J 36660-A.
6. Remove the number 5 cap and measure the plastigauge using the inch scale. All 1996-99 5.0L
(L30) and 5.7L (L31) engines were built with 0.001 in. undersized number 5 crankshaft bearing
inserts.
7. If the measurement is:
^ Less than 0.0020 in. - Go To Step 8
^ 0.0020 in. or greater but less than 0.0025 in. - Go To Step 9
^ 0.0025 in. or greater but less than 0.0030 in. - Go To Step 10
^ .0.0030 in. or greater - Go To Step 11
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2515
8. Less than 0.0020 in.
8.1. Retain production 0.001 in. undersize upper and lower bearing inserts at the number 5
crankshaft bearing position.
8.2. Clean any and all plastigauge material and residue from the bearing inserts.
8.3. Liberally coat bearing inserts with clean engine oil and reinstall crankshaft bearing caps and
bolts.
8.4. Reinstall crankshaft bearing cap, bolts and studs to the engine block, making sure that the cap,
bolts, and studs retain their original position and orientation.
Tighten
8.4.1. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts and studs on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
8.4.2. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts on the final pass to 73 degrees using the J
36660-A.
8.5. Remove Screwjack used for crankshaft support.
8.6. Go to Step 12 Crankshaft (main) Bearing Service for Locations Number 2, 3, and 4.
9. 0.0020 in. or greater but less than 0.0025 in.
9.1. Retain upper bearing shell (numbers main bearing - production 0.001 in. undersized).
9.2. Remove number 5 lower main bearing shell from the cap and discard.
9.3. Install 0.002 in. undersize bearing insert (P/N 12329792) in the number 5 cap, LOWER HALF
ONLY.
9.4. Apply a liberal coating of clean engine oil to the bearing surface.
9.5. Reinstall crankshaft bearing cap, bolts and studs to the engine block, making sure that the
caps, bolts, and studs retain their original position and orientation.
Tighten
9.5.1. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts and studs on the first pass to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
9.5.2. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts on the final pass to 73 degrees using the J
36660-A.
9.6. Remove the screw jack used for crankshaft support.
9.7. Go to Step 12 Crankshaft (main) Bearing Service for Locations Number 2, 3, and 4.
10. 0.0025 in. or greater but less than 0.0030 in.
10.1. Lower jack stand from crankshaft, allowing the crankshaft to be supported by the numbers 1,
2, 3, and 4 crankshaft main bearings.
10.2. Insert J 8080 into the crankshaft number 5 main bearing oil hole and rotate the crankshaft to
turn the upper bearing insert out of the engine
block. Discard the removed upper bearing insert.
10.3. Insert J 8080 into the crankshaft number 5 main bearing oil hole.
10.4. Procure the crankshaft number 5 main bearing 0.0020 in. undersize bearing upper insert
(from kit P/N 12329792), apply clean engine oil to
the bearing insert, and insert the plain end (without the bearing tang) of the bearing shell between
the crankshaft and the notched side of the engine block web.
10.5. Rotate the crankshaft to roll the upper bearing insert into the engine block.
10.6. Remove the J8080 from the crankshaft.
10.7. Remove the number 5 lower main bearing shell from the cap and discard.
10.8. Install 0.002 in. undersize bearing lower insert (from kit P/N 12329792) in the number 5 cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2516
10.9. Apply a liberal coating of clean engine oil to the bearing surface.
10.10. Reinstall crankshaft bearing cap, bolts and studs to the engine block, making sure that the
caps, bolts, and studs retain their original
position and orientation.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts and studs on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
10.11. Thrust the crankshaft rearward in order to set and align the crankshaft thrust bearings and
the crankshaft bearing caps.
10.12. Thrust the crankshaft forward in order to align the rear faces of the crankshaft thrust
bearings.
Tighten
Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts on the final pass to 73 degrees using the J 36660-A.
10.13. Go to Step 12 Crankshaft (main) Bearing Service for Locations Number 2, 3, and 4.
11. 0.0030 in. or greater
11.1. Retain upper bearing shell (number 5 main bearing - production 0.001 in. undersized).
11.2. Remove number 5 lower main bearing shell from the cap and discard.
11.3. Install 0.004 in. undersize bearing insert (P/N 12561191) in the number 5 cap, LOWER HALF
ONLY.
11.4. Apply a liberal coating of clean engine oil to the bearing surface, reinstall crankshaft bearing
cap, bolts and studs to the engine block,
making sure that the caps, bolts, and studs retain their original position and orientation.
Tighten
11.4.1. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts and studs on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
11.4.2. Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap bolts on the final pass to 73 degrees using the J
36660-A.
11.5. Remove the screw jack used for crankshaft support.
11.6. Go to Step 12 Crankshaft (main) Bearing Service for Locations Number 2, 3, and 4.
12. Crankshaft (main) Bearing Service for Locations Number 2, 3, and 4
Important:
Do not remove the number 1 (front) main bearing cap.
12.1. Mark and remove the bearing caps from crankshaft bearings number 2, 3, and 4.
12.2. Install new bearing inserts PIN 10120990 (standard size - lower inserts only) to the numbers
2, 3, and 4 crankshaft bearing caps.
Important:
Bearing caps must be installed in the proper location and orientation or engine damage could
result.
12.3. Apply a liberal coating of clean engine oil to the bearing surface, and reinstall the bearing cap
and bolts.
Tighten
12.3.1. Tighten the bearing cap bolts on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
12.3.2. Final Pass (two bolt main bearing caps) - Tighten the bearing cap bolts on the final pass to
73 degrees using the J 36660-A.
12.3.3. Final Pass (four bolt main bearing caps) - Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap OUTBOARD
bolts and studs to 43 degrees using the J
36660-A.
12.3.4. Final Pass (four bolt main bearing caps) - Tighten the crankshaft bearing cap INNER bolts
and studs to 73 degrees using the J
36660-A.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2517
12.4. Go to Step 13 Connecting Rod Bearing Service.
13. Connecting Rod Bearing Service
Important:
Do not disassemble connecting rod bearing caps for bearing clearance measurement.
The design of the connecting rods in these engines does not permit accurate bearing clearance
measurements when the connecting rod caps are disassembled from the connecting rods.
Conventional methods of measuring bearing clearance, such as Plastigauge, cannot accurately be
performed on these engines.
GM Powertrain has developed a new, accurate and time-efficient means for measuring connecting
rod bearing clearance without disassembly of the connecting rods. In early 1999, SPX/Kent-Moore
Tool will be releasing a new essential tool to dealers in the United States to facilitate this new
procedure.
Until this new, essential tool is released Contact: SPX/Kent-Moore Tool at 1(810) 345-2233 who will then arrange for dealers to borrow a
special connecting rod bearing clearance measuring tool and associated instruction sheet and
video.
Using this methodology, measure and refit connecting rod bearing inserts in each of the connecting
rods. Use undersize connecting rod bearing inserts (listed in the table below) to selectively fit each
connecting rod bearing for a clearance of 0.001-0.002 in.
13.1. Center the connecting rod journal to be worked on in the 6 o'clock position. Using screw
jacks, lock the crankshaft in position as close to the
bearing being worked on as possible. Tighten the screw jack sufficiently to displace the oil film from
the upper main bearings. To avoid damage to the crankshaft, use a cushioning material, such as a
block of wood, between the crankshaft and jack.
13.2. Check rod bearing clearance using a bearing loading and unloading tool and test indicator
capable of measuring 0.0001 inch increments.
Important:
A test indicator is required for this procedure, do not substitute a dial indicator. A dial indicator uses
a plunger and will not provide repeatable results. Likewise, Plastigauge is not effective in this repair
and should not be used for this procedure. To ensure this analysis technique will be accurate, do
not disassemble the rod assembly.
13.3. With the rod bearing to be worked on in the 6 o'clock position, install the test indicator.
Tighten the thumb screw until snug. Install the base
bracket to the oil pan rail and center it so that the handle can move freely in the slot provided. The
link pin on the connecting rod bearing clearance measuring tool should line up with the centerline
of the connecting rod, and have a push/pull action in line with the connecting rod. This alignment is
crucial for accurate and repeatable measurements.
13.4. Screw the attaching stud of the flexible dial indicator support into a convenient oil pan rail bolt
hole. Position the dial indicator so that the
stylus is centered on the connecting rod cap and lock the flexible dial indicator support into
position.
13.5. Using the fine adjustment feature on the flexible dial indicator support (knob near dial
indicator), adjust so that the dial indicator needle has
sufficient travel in both directions to take an accurate measurement.
13.6. Load the connecting rod in the upward direction of piston travel and zero the test indicator.
Load the connecting rod in the reverse direction,
and record the reading off the indicator. Repeat this process 2-3 times, applying consistent
pressure in each direction to ensure the oil film is pushed out of the journal. Record these readings.
13.7. In order to accurately determine which rod or rods is causing the knock, perform this
procedure on all eight rod assemblies.
13.8. Analyze the measurements from all eight rods. Select bearings that will put the total
clearance for each rod at 0.001-.002 inch clearance.
Install new upper and lower bearing inserts as required, being sure to lubricate liberally with clean
engine oil.
Tighten
13.8.1. Tighten the rod bearing caps on the first pass to 27 N.m (20 lb ft).
13.8.2. Tighten the rod bearing caps on the final pass to 55 degrees.
13.9. Reinstall the oil pump to the crankshaft rear bearing cap.
Tighten
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Bearing Knock Noise > Page 2518
13.9.1. Tighten the oil pump bolt on the first pass to 20 N.m (15 lb ft).
13.9.2. Tighten the oil pump bolt on the final pass to 65 degrees using the J 36660-A.
14. Reassemble as required. Use Service Manual procedure - Re-install Oil Pan.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft Main
Bearing > Component Information > Specifications > Bearing Undersize Availability
Crankshaft Main Bearing: Specifications Bearing Undersize Availability
Shell type bearings are used, and if worn excessively, should be replaced. No attempt should be
made to shim, file or otherwise take up worn bearings. Main bearings are available in standard and
undersizes of .001, .002, .009, .010 and .020 inch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Torque Specifications
Crankshaft: Specifications Main Bearing Cap
Main Bearing Cap
Torque Specification Outer Bolts on Cap 2, 3,& 4 70 ft.lb
All Others 80 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Crankshaft, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications > Main Bearing Torque Specifications > Page 2525
Crankshaft: Specifications Crankshaft Dimensions
Engine Liter/CID ..................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 5.7L/V8-350
All specifications given in inches.
Crankshaft Journals
Main Bearing Journal Diameter ...........................................................................................................
................................................................... [06] Connecting Rod Journal Diameter
..........................................................................................................................................................
2.0978-2.0998 Maximum Out Of Round All .........................................................................................
...................................................................................... 0.0003 Runout Service Limit ........................
..............................................................................................................................................................
............. 10
Bearing Clearance
Main Bearings ......................................................................................................................................
...................................................................... [17] Connecting Rod Bearings ......................................
................................................................................................................................... 0.0013-0.0035
Connecting Rods
Pin Clearance ......................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 0.0004-0.0008 Side Clearance .....................................................
......................................................................................................................................
0.0060-0.0140
[06] Front No. 1 journal, 2.4484-2.4493 inches; Nos. 2, 3, & 4 journals, 2.4481-2.4490 inches; No. 5
journal, 2.4479-2.4488 inches. [17] Production: Front No. 1, 0.0007-0.0021 inch; Nos. 2, 3 & 4,
0.0009-.0024 inch; rear No. 5, 0.0010-0.0027 inch. Service: Front, 0.0010-0.0025
inch; rear, 0.0015-0.0030 inch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Crankshaft Balancer - Removal/Installation Tool
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Technical Service Bulletins Crankshaft Balancer Removal/Installation Tool
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 57-61-38
Date: January, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6A - Engine Mechanical - Crankshaft Balancer Remover/Installer Tool Incorrectly
Referenced
Models: 1990-96 Chevrolet and GMC Truck S/T; M/L, C/K, P, G Models 1991-94 Oldsmobile
Bravada 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
The crankshaft balancer remover/installer tool J 39046 listed in some 1990-96 service information
sections 6A2, 6A3, 6A4, 6A5, 6A6, 6A7, 6A2B, 6A3B, 6A4B, 6A5B, and 6A6B is incorrectly
referenced.
The correct tool number for the truck models listed above is J 23523-F or equivalent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2530
Harmonic Balancer - Crankshaft Pulley: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
^ Tools Required J23523-F Crankshaft Balancer Puller and Installer, or equivalent
1. Remove the engine cooling fan. Refer to cooling system. 2. Remove the accessory drive pulley.
3. Remove the crankshaft balancer bolt.
4. Remove the crankshaft balancer. Use the J 23523-E.
INSTALLATION
^ Tools Required . J 35468 Oil Seal Installer
- . J 23523-F Crankshaft Balance Puller and Installer
- Or equivalents
CAUTION: The inertial weight section of the crankshaft balancer is assembled to the hub with a
rubber type material. The correct Installation procedures (with the proper tool) must be followed or
movement of the inertial weight section of the hub will destroy the tuning of the crankshaft
balancer.
1. Install the crankshaft balancer using the, following procedure:
a. Install the stud to the crankshaft. b. Thread the stud fully into the tapped hole in the crankshaft.
c. Install the crankshaft balancer (external) over the end of the stud. Align the keyway in the
crankshaft balancer (external) shaft with the
crankshaft key. Use a small amount of RTV sealant in order to seal the crankshaft balancer
(external) key to the crankshaft joint.
d. Install the bearing, washer and nut on the J23523-F e. Turn the nut to pull the crankshaft
balancer onto the crankshaft. f.
Remove the J23523-F.
2. Install the crankshaft balancer (external) bolt and washer.
^ Tighten the bolt to 100 Nm (74 ft. lbs.).
3. Install the accessory drive pulley.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Harmonic Balancer Crankshaft Pulley > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2531
4. Install the engine cooling fan. Refer to Cooling System.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Specifications
Piston: Specifications
Engine Liter/CID ..................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 5.7L/V8-350
All specifications given in inches.
Piston Clearance [20] ..........................................................................................................................
.......................................................... 0.0007-0.0021 Piston Pin Diameter (Std.) ................................
............................................................................................................................................
0.9270-0.9271 Pin To Piston Bore Clearance .....................................................................................
................................................................................. 0.0004-0.0008 Piston Rings
End Gap [02]
Comp. ..................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 0.0100-0.0200 Oil ..............................................................................
........................................................................................................................... 0.0100-0.0300
Side Clearance
Comp. ..................................................................................................................................................
................................................. 0.0012-0.0032 Oil ..............................................................................
........................................................................................................................... 0.0020-0.0070
[02] Minimum. [20] Production standard, piston No. 1-6: 4.051-4.0578 inches; piston No. 7 & 8:
4.0576-4.0583 inches.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oversize Availability
Piston: Service and Repair Oversize Availability
A 0.001 inch oversize piston is available for service use so that proper clearances can be obtained
for slightly worn cylinder bores requiring only light honing. In addition, oversizes of 0.020 inch,
0.030 inch and 0.040 inch are available. If the cylinders have less than 0.005 inch taper or wear,
they can be reconditioned with a hone and fitted with the 0.001 inch oversize piston.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Block Assembly > Piston, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oversize Availability > Page 2537
Piston: Service and Repair Pistons & Rods Assemble
Fig. 9 Piston & Ring End Gap Orientation
Assemble pistons to connecting rods, locating piston ring end gaps as shown in Fig. 9. Lubricate
piston rings with clean engine oil. Without disturbing the piston ring end gap location, install piston.
Piston must be installed with notch in piston facing front of engine.
A 0.001 inch oversize piston is available for service use to obtain proper clearances for slightly
worn cylinder bores that require only light honing. In addition, oversizes of 0.020 inch, 0.030 inch
and 0.040 inch are available. If the cylinders have less than 0.005 inch taper or wear, they can be
reconditioned with a hone and fitted with the 0.001 inch oversize piston. Connecting rod bearing
inserts are available in standard size and undersizes of 0.001 inch, 0.002 inch, 0.010 inch and
0.020 inch. The bearings can be replaced without removing the rod assembly by removing the cap
and replacing the upper and lower halves of the bearing.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Clearance Specifications
One turn down from zero lash.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications > Page 2543
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Arrangement
FRONT TO REAR
5.7L/V8-350 .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Page 2544
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
1. Remove rocker arm cover. 2. Crank engine until the mark on the vibration damper aligns with the
"0 mark on the timing tab and the engine is in the number one firing position.
This may be determined by placing fingers on valves of number one cylinder as the mark on the
damper comes near the " 0 mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is
in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the marks comes up to the timing tab,
the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the
number one firing position.
3. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8 and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 can
be adjusted. Even numbered cylinders are in the
right bank, odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank when viewed from the rear of the engine.
4. Back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod, then turn in the adjusting nut until all
lash is removed. This can be determined by
rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When play has been removed, turn the
adjusting nut in one full additional turn.
5. Crank engine one complete revolution until the timing tab " 0 mark and vibration damper mark
are aligned. This is the number six firing position. 6. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves
2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8 can be adjusted. 7. With valves properly adjusted,
install rocker arm cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Fuel Pressure Release
> System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Rocker Arm Assembly
> Component Information > Service and Repair
Rocker Arm Assembly: Service and Repair
Rocker arm stud removal
Rocker arm stud installation
Remove the old stud by placing a suitable spacer over the stud, Fig. 13. Install a nut and flat
washer on the stud and pull out the stud by turning the nut. After reaming the hole for an oversize
stud, coat the press-fit area of the new stud with rear axle lubricant. Install the stud using stud
driver tool No. 6880, or equivalent, by driving it in until tool bottoms on the head, Fig.14.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Installation
Valve Cover: Service and Repair Installation
1. Install a new valve rocker arm cover gasket. 2. Install the valve rocker arm cover. 3. Install the
valve rocker arm cover bolts.
^ Tighten the cover bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
4. Install the components as follows for the left valve rocker arm cover:
a. The air conditioning compressor and the bracket. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. b. The
EGR valve inlet pipe. c. The PCV and the hose. d. The power brake vacuum pipe.
5. Install the components as follows for the right valve rocker arm cover:
a. The crankcase ventilation hose. b. The oil level indicator tube bracket. c. The air cleaner intake
duct. Refer to Powertrain Management.
6. Install the wiring harnesses to the valve rocker arm cover clips. 7. Install the spark plug wires. 8.
Connect the battery negative cable assembly to the battery negative terminal.
^ Tighten the bolt to 15 Nm (11 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Cover >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Installation > Page 2555
Valve Cover: Service and Repair Removal
1. Disconnect the battery negative cable assembly from the battery negative terminal. 2. Remove
the spark plug wires. 3. Disconnect the wiring harness from the clips, and move aside. 4. Remove
the following components for access to the right valve rocker arm cover:
^ The crankcase vent hose.
^ The oil level indicator tube bracket.
^ The air cleaner intake duct. Refer to Powertrain Management.
5. Remove the following components for access to the left valve rocker arm cover:
a. The air conditioning compressor and lay aside. Refer to Heating and Air Conditioning. b. The
EGR valve inlet pipe. c. The PCV and the hose. d. The power brake vacuum pipe and move aside.
6. Remove the valve rocker arm cover bolts. 7. Remove the valve rocker arm cover and the gasket.
8. Clean all traces of old gasket from the valve rocker arm cover and the cylinder head. 9. Inspect
the valve rocker arm cover sealing surface for distortion. Replace the valve rocker arm cover if
necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve Guide: > 1539013 > Jul > 04 > Engine SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve Guide: Customer Interest Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Guide: > 1539013 > Jul >
04 > Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve Guide: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing
Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2569
Valve Guide: Specifications
Valve guides in these engines are an integral part of the head and, therefore, cannot be removed.
For service, guide holes can be reamed oversize to accommodate one of several service valves
with oversize stems. Check the valve stem clearance of each valve (after cleaning) in its respective
valve guide. If the clearance exceeds the service limits of .004 inch on the intake or .005 inch on
the exhaust, ream the valve guide to accommodate the next oversize diameter valve stem. Select
the reamer for the smallest oversize which will provide a clean straight bore through the valve
guide. After reaming, a new seat should be cut into the head to assure perfect seating of the new
valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Guide >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2570
Valve Guide: Service and Repair
Valve guides in these engines are an integral part of the head and, therefore, cannot be removed.
For service, guide holes can be reamed oversize to accommodate one of several service valves
with oversize stems. Check the valve stem clearance of each valve (after cleaning) in its respective
valve guide. If the clearance exceeds the service limits of .004 inch on the intake or .005 inch on
the exhaust, ream the valve guide to accommodate the next oversize diameter valve stem. Select
the reamer for the smallest oversize which will provide a clean straight bore through the valve
guide. After reaming, a new seat should be cut into the head to assure perfect seating of the new
valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve Spring >
Component Information > Specifications
Valve Spring: Specifications
Engine Liter/CID ..................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 5.7L/V8-350
All specifications given in inches.
Free Length .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................................... 2.02 Installed Height ................................................
.................................................................................................................................................
1.690-1.710 Pressure, Lbs. @ Inches
Closed
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 71.0-79.0 @ 1.830
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
........................................... 76.0-84.0 @ 1.700
Open
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 187-203 @ 1.27
Exhaust ................................................................................................................................................
............................................... 187-203 @ 1.27
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Valve: > 1539013 > Jul > 04 > Engine - SES
Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve: Customer Interest Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve: > 1539013 > Jul > 04 >
Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Specifications > Valve Specifications
Valve: Specifications Valve Specifications
Engine Liter/CID ..................................................................................................................................
........................................................... 5.7L/V8-350
All specifications given in inches.
Stem Diameter Std.
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
...................................................... 0.3410-0.3417 Exhaust ................................................................
......................................................................................................................................
0.3410-0.3417
Maximum Tip Refinish .........................................................................................................................
........................................................................ [03] Face Angle ..........................................................
....................................................................................................................................................... 45
deg. Margin [01]
Intake ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 0.0315 Exhaust .................................................................
.................................................................................................................................................. 0.0315
Valve Lash ...........................................................................................................................................
........................................................................... [08]
[01] Minimum. [03] Grind only enough to provide true surface. After grinding valve stems, ensure
sufficient clearance remains between rocker arm & valve spring cap
or rotator.
[08] One turn after lash is removed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Cylinder Head Assembly > Valve, Intake/Exhaust
> Component Information > Specifications > Valve Specifications > Page 2589
Valve: Specifications Valve Arrangement
FRONT TO REAR
5.7L/V8-350 .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
Drive Belt: Customer Interest Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-60-02
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Accessory Drive Belt Noise Due to Power Steering Pump Pulley Misalignment (Properly
Align Pulley)
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; G, P Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J, N - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29,
L19)
Condition
Some owners may comment on accessory drive noise.
Cause
The power steering pump pulley may be misaligned with the end of the pump shaft.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned > Page 2599
In addition to the normal service for the above condition, it is critical that the pulley is flush with the
end of the power steering pump shaft. If it is not, reference the appropriate service manual for
proper service instructions.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E836O Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 2605
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 2606
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
04-06-01-013 > Apr > 04 > Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-60-02
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Accessory Drive Belt Noise Due to Power Steering Pump Pulley Misalignment (Properly
Align Pulley)
Models: 1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; G, P Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J, N - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29,
L19)
Condition
Some owners may comment on accessory drive noise.
Cause
The power steering pump pulley may be misaligned with the end of the pump shaft.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
77-60-02 > Jun > 98 > Engine - Drive Belt Noise, P/S Pump Pulley Misaligned > Page 2615
In addition to the normal service for the above condition, it is critical that the pulley is flush with the
end of the power steering pump shaft. If it is not, reference the appropriate service manual for
proper service instructions.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
E836O Use published labor operation time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-06-01-008A
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Diagnosing Accessory Drive Belt / Serpentine Belt Noise and Availability and Use of
Kent-Moore EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 Vehicles 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add a model year and update the Tool Information.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 08-06-01-008 (Section 06 - Engine).
Background
Several aftermarket companies offer laser alignment tools for accessory drive systems that can be
very helpful in eliminating drive belt noise as a result of misaligned pulleys. Typically pricing ranges
from $160 - $200.
EN-49228 Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt
The GM Tool program has now made available a competitive, simple to use and time-saving laser
tool to assist in achieving precise alignment of the drive belt pulleys. This optional tool removes the
guesswork from proper pulley alignment and may serve to reduce comebacks from:
- Drive Belt Noise
- Accelerated Drive Belt Wear
- Drive Belt Slippage
Instructions
The instructions below are specific only to the truck Gen IV V-8 family of engines. These
instructions are only for illustrative purposes to show how the tool may be used. Universal
instructions are included in the box with the Laser Alignment Tool - Drive Belt.
Caution
- Do not look directly into the beam projected from the laser.
- Use caution when shining the laser on highly polished or reflective surfaces. Laser safety glasses
help reduce laser beam glare in many circumstances.
- Always use laser safety glasses when using the laser. Laser safety glasses are not designed to
protect eyes from direct laser exposure.
1. Observe and mark the serpentine belt orientation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 2621
2. Remove the serpentine belt from the accessory drive system.
3. Install the tool onto the power steering pulley. Position the legs of the tool into the outer grooves
of the pulley, farthest from the front of the
engine.
4. Install the retaining cord around the pulley and to the legs of the tool.
5. Put on the laser safety glasses provided with the tool. 6. Depress the switch on the rear of the
tool to activate the light beam. 7. Rotate the power steering pulley as required to project the light
beam onto the crankshaft balancer pulley grooves. 8. Inspect for proper power steering pulley
alignment.
- If the laser beam projects onto the second rib or raised area (1), the pulleys are aligned properly.
- If the laser beam projects more than one-quarter rib 0.9 mm (0.035 in) mis-alignment, adjust the
position of the power steering pulley as required.
- Refer to SI for Power Steering Pulley Removal and Installation procedures.
9. Install the serpentine belt to the accessory drive system in the original orientation.
10. Operate the vehicle and verify that the belt noise concern is no longer present.
Tool Information
Please visit the GM service tool website for pricing information or to place your order for this tool.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
08-06-01-008A > Jul > 09 > Engine - Drive Belt Misalignment Diagnostics > Page 2622
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Drive Belt: >
04-06-01-013 > Apr > 04 > Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Drive Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Serpentine Drive Belt Wear Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-01-013
Date: April 29, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: Information on Serpentine Belt Wear
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
All current GM vehicles designed and manufactured in North America were assembled with
serpentine belts that are made with an EPDM material and should last the life of the vehicle. It is
extremely rare to observe any cracks in EPDM belts and it is not expected that they will require
maintenance before 10 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi) of use.
Older style belts, which were manufactured with a chloroprene compound, may exhibit cracks
depending on age. However, the onset of cracking typically signals that the belt is only about
halfway through its usable life.
A good rule of thumb for chloroprene-based belts is that if cracks are observed 3 mm (1/8 in) apart,
ALL AROUND THE BELT, the belt may be reaching the end of its serviceable life and should be
considered a candidate for changing. Small cracks spaced at greater intervals should not be
considered as indicative that the belt needs changing.
Any belt that exhibits chunking should be replaced.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2627
Drive Belt: Service and Repair
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Release belt tension.
^ Use a suitable breaker bar in the square hole provided in the belt tensioner to rotate tensioner
counterclockwise and release tension on all models.
CAUTION: Do not rotate the tensioner except as noted above. Also, do not allow the tensioner to
snap into the "free" position. Either of these conditions could damage the belt and/or tensioner.
2. Belt.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTE: Install a multiple ribbed belt following the belt routings shown. The grooves in the belt must
match the grooves in the pulleys. The tensioner is spring loaded. After removing the belt, the
tensioner will return to the tension position.
1. Route belt over all of the pulleys except the belt tensioner. 2. Release belt tensioner.
^ Use a 1/2 inch breaker bar in the square hole provided in the belt tensioner to rotate tensioner
counterclockwise and release tension on all models.
3. Belt over tensioner pulley. Slowly allow tensioner to move back into installed position. 4. Check
the belt for correct "V" groove tracking into each pulley.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications
Drive Belt Tensioner: Specifications
Drive Belt Tensioner Bolt .....................................................................................................................
................................................... 50 N.m (37 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2631
Drive Belt Tensioner: Testing and Inspection
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Multiple ribbed drive belt.
^ Position a hex head socket on the belt tensioner pulley bolt head.
^ Move the drive belt tensioner through its full travel.
NOTICE: Do not allow the drive belt tensioner to snap into the "free" position. This may result in
damage to the tensioner.
^ Movement should feel smooth and return freely without any binding. If any binding is observed,
replace the tensioner.
Install or Connect
1. Multiple ribbed drive belt. 2. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Drive Belt Tensioner > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2632
Drive Belt Tensioner: Service and Repair
Belt Tensioner Assembly
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Multiple ribbed drive belt. 3. Bolt. 4. Tensioner.
Install or Connect
1. Tensioner to mounting bracket. 2. Bolt.
Tighten ^
Bolt to 50 N.m (37 lb. ft.).
3. Multiple ribbed drive belt. 4. Negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Drive Belts, Mounts, Brackets and Accessories >
Engine Mount > Component Information > Service and Repair
Engine Mount: Service and Repair
Fig. 1 Front Engine Mount
FRONT MOUNTS
When raising or supporting the engine for any reason, do not use a jack under the oil pan, any
sheet metal or crankshaft pulley. Due to the small clearance between the oil pan and oil pump
screen, jacking against the oil pan may cause it to be bent against the pump screen, resulting in a
damaged oil pickup unit.
1. Using a jack, support engine.
2. Remove engine mount through bolt and nut, Fig. 1. Raise engine only enough for sufficient
clearance. Check for interference between rear of engine and the dash panel which could cause
distributor damage.
3. Remove engine mount assembly bolts, nuts and washers.
4. Remove mount assembly.
5. Reverse procedure to install.
REAR MOUNTS
When raising or supporting the engine for any reason, do not use a jack under the oil pan, any
sheet metal or crankshaft pulley. Due to the small clearance between the oil pan and oil pump
screen, jacking against the oil pan may cause it to be bent against the pump screen, resulting in a
damaged oil pickup unit.
1. Support rear of engine to relieve the weight on the rear mounting.
2. Remove mount to crossmember nuts and washers.
3. Remove mount to transmission attaching bolts and washers. Raise rear of engine only enough
to permit removal of the mount.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil Pressure >
Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
OIL PRESSURE
Minimum Hot:
1000 rpm .............................................................................................................................................
............................................ 41.4 kPa (6.0 psi) 2000 rpm ...................................................................
................................................................................................................... 124.1 kPa (18.0 psi) 4000
rpm ......................................................................................................................................................
............................... 165.4 kPa (24.0 psi)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
Engine Oil: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 11-00-90-001
Date: March 14, 2011
Subject: Global Information for GM dexos1(TM) and GM dexos2(TM) Engine Oil Specifications for
Spark Ignited and Diesel Engines, Available Licensed Brands, and Service Fill for Adding or
Complete Oil Change
Models:
2012 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks Excluding All Vehicles Equipped with
Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines
GM dexos 1(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 1(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
The dexos(TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos‹›(TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos‹›(TM)
specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
1(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 1(TM) Engine Oil Specification
Important General Motors dexos 1(TM) engine oil specification replaces the previous General
Motors specifications GM6094M, GM4718M and GM-LL-A-025 for most GM gasoline engines. The
oil specified for use in GM passenger cars and trucks, PRIOR to the 2011 model year remains
acceptable for those previous vehicles. However, dexos 1(TM) is backward compatible and can be
used in those older vehicles.
In North America, starting with the 2011 model year, GM introduced dexos 1(TM) certified engine
oil as a factory fill and service fill for gasoline engines. The reasons for the new engine oil
specification are as follows:
- To meet environmental goals such as increasing fuel efficiency and reducing engine emissions.
- To promote long engine life.
- To minimize the number of engine oil changes in order to help meet the goal of lessening the
industry's overall dependence on crude oil.
dexos 1(TM) is a GM-developed engine oil specification that has been designed to provide the
following benefits:
- Further improve fuel economy, to meet future corporate average fuel economy (CAFE)
requirements and fuel economy retention by allowing the oil to maintain its fuel economy benefits
throughout the life of the oil.
- More robust formulations for added engine protection and aeration performance.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2644
- Support the GM Oil Life System, thereby minimizing the replacement of engine oil, before its life
has been depleted.
- Reduce the duplication of requirements for a large number of internal GM engine oil
specifications.
International Lubricants Standardization and Approval Committee (ILSAC)
GF-5 Standard
In addition to GM dexos 1(TM), a new International Lubricants Standardization and Approval
Committee (ILSAC) standard called GF-5, was introduced in October 2010.
- There will be a corresponding API category, called: SN Resource Conserving. The current GF-4
standard was put in place in 2004 and will become obsolete in October 2011. Similar to dexos
1(TM), the GF-5 standard will use a new fuel economy test, Sequence VID, which demands a
statistically significant increase in fuel economy versus the Sequence VIB test that was used for
GF-4.
- It is expected that all dexos 1(TM) approved oils will be capable of meeting the GF-5 standard.
However, not all GF-5 engine oils will be capable of meeting the dexos 1(TM) specification.
- Like dexos(TM), the new ILSAC GF-5 standard will call for more sophisticated additives. The API
will begin licensing marketers during October 2010, to produce and distribute GF-5 certified
products, which are expected to include SAE 0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-20, 5W-30 and 10W-30 oils.
Corporate Average Fuel Economy (CAFE) Requirements Effect on Fuel Economy
Since CAFE standards were first introduced in 1974, the fuel economy of cars has more than
doubled, while the fuel economy of light trucks has increased by more than 50 percent. Proposed
CAFE standards call for a continuation of increased fuel economy in new cars and trucks. To meet
these future requirements, all aspects of vehicle operation are being looked at more critically than
ever before.
New technology being introduced in GM vehicles designed to increase vehicle efficiency and fuel
economy include direct injection, cam phasing, turbocharging and active fuel management (AFM).
The demands of these new technologies on engine oil also are taken into consideration when
determining new oil specifications. AFM for example can help to achieve improved fuel economy.
However alternately deactivating and activating the cylinders by not allowing the intake and
exhaust valves to open contributes to additional stress on the engine oil.
Another industry trend for meeting tough fuel economy mandates has been a shift toward lower
viscosity oils.
dexos 1(TM) will eventually be offered in several viscosity grades in accordance with engine needs:
SAE 0W-20, 5W-20, 0W-30 and 5W-30.
Using the right viscosity grade oil is critical for proper engine performance. Always refer to the
Maintenance section of a vehicle Owner Manual for the proper viscosity grade for the engine being
serviced.
GM Oil Life System in Conjunction With dexos (TM) Supports Extended Oil Change Intervals
To help conserve oil while maintaining engine protection, many GM vehicles are equipped with the
GM Oil Life System. This system can provide oil change intervals that exceed the traditional 3,000
mile (4,830 km) recommendation.
The dexos (TM) specification, with its requirements for improved oil robustness, compliments the
GM Oil Life System by supporting extended oil change intervals over the lifetime of a vehicle.
If all GM customers with GM Oil Life System equipped vehicles would use the system as intended,
GM estimates that more than 100 million gallons of oil could be saved annually.
GM dexos 2(TM) Information Center Website
Refer to the following General Motors website for dexos 2(TM) information about the different
licensed brands that are currently available: http://www.gmdexos.com
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Trademark and Icons
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - GM dexos 1 and dexos 2(R) Oil Specifications > Page 2645
The dexos (TM) specification and trademarks are exclusive to General Motors, LLC.
Only those oils displaying the dexos (TM) trademark and icon on the front label meet the
demanding performance requirements and stringent quality standards set forth in the dexos
(TM)specification.
Look on the front label for any of the logos shown above to identify an authorized, licensed dexos
2(TM) engine oil.
GM dexos 2(TM) Engine Oil Specification
- dexos 2(TM) is approved and recommended by GM for use in Europe starting in model year 2010
vehicles, regardless of where the vehicle was manufactured.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European gasoline engines.
Important The Duramax(TM) diesel engine is the exception and requires lubricants meeting
specification CJ-4.
- dexos 2(TM) is the recommended service fill oil for European light-duty diesel engines and
replaces GM-LL-B-025 and GM-LL-A-025.
- dexos 2(TM) protects diesel engines from harmful soot deposits and is designed with limits on
certain chemical components to prolong catalyst life and protect expensive emission reduction
systems. It is a robust oil, resisting degradation between oil changes and maintaining optimum
performance longer.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil: Capacity Specifications
Engine Oil ............................................................................................................................................
.............................................. 4.73 Liters (5.0 Quarts)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Engine Oil > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2648
Engine Oil: Fluid Type Specifications
GM Goodwrench motor oil or equivalent for API Service with STARBURST SYMBOL of the
recommended viscosity.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Cooler, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting
Oil Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 65-71-02
Date: March, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Sections 7A14D and 7A17D, Automatic Transmission On-Vehicle Service - Enhanced
Engine and Transmission Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting Procedures
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E,
4L80-E Transmissions
This bulletin has been created to enhance the support of the removal and installation of oil cooler
lines from and to quick connect fittings on engines and transmissions. The content of this bulletin
replaces any existing cooler line quick connect fitting procedures found in the 1996 S/T and C/K
Truck and M/L and G Van Service Manuals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Cooler, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page
2653
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 1
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Cooler, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page
2654
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 2
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Cooler, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page
2655
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 3
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Cooler, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page
2656
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 4
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter, Engine >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
Oil Filter: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Noise/Damage Oil Filter Application Importance
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 07-06-01-016B
Date: July 27, 2009
Subject: Information on Internal Engine Noise or Damage After Oil Filter Replacement
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being updated to add model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 07-06-01-016A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important Engine damage that is the result of an incorrect or improperly installed engine oil filter is
not a warrantable claim. The best way to avoid oil filter quality concerns is to purchase ACDelco(R)
oil filters directly from GMSPO.
Oil filter misapplication may cause abnormal engine noise or internal damage. Always utilize the
most recent parts information to ensure the correct part number filter is installed when replacing oil
filters. Do not rely on physical dimensions alone. Counterfeit copies of name brand parts have been
discovered in some aftermarket parts systems. Always ensure the parts you install are from a
trusted source. Improper oil filter installation may result in catastrophic engine damage.
Refer to the appropriate Service Information (SI) installation instructions when replacing any oil
filter and pay particular attention to procedures for proper cartridge filter element alignment. If the
diagnostics in SI (Engine Mechanical) lead to the oil filter as the cause of the internal engine noise
or damage, dealers should submit a field product report. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-00-89-002I (Information for Dealers on How to Submit a Field Product Report).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Filter Adapter >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Oil Filter Adapter: Service and Repair
OIL FILTER ADAPTER
REMOVAL
1. Remove the oil filter. 2. Remove the oil cooler lines. 3. Remove the bolts. 4. Remove the oil filter
adapter. 5. Remove the gasket and seal.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the oil filter adapter gasket. 2. Install the oil filter adapter. 3. Install the bolts.
^ Tighten the bolts to 20 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
4. Install the oil cooler lines. 5. Install the oil filter. 6. Install the engine oil, as needed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines
Oil Line: Service and Repair Oil Cooler Lines
ENGINE OIL COOLER LINE REPLACEMENT
The optional oil cooler is either an integral pan of the radiator or a separate unit placed in front of
the radiator. Cooler lines and hoses are serviceable.
OIL COOLER SYSTEM SERVICE
If foreign material has entered the oil cooler or if the engine has been damaged internally, flush the
oil cooler, connecting lines, and filter adapter assembly in the following manner.
Engine Oil Cooler (5.0/5.7L Engines Without Heavy Duty Cooling)
Engine Oil Cooler (5.7L Engine With Heavy Duty Cooling)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2668
Auxiliary Engine Oil Cooler Assembly
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Set the parking brake.
1. Oil cooler lines from the connector.
Removing Oil Cooler Line From Connector
- Using a small pick-type tool and your thumb (A in image), grasp the connector end and pull the
clip from the connector (B in image). This releases the cooler line from the connector.
NOTICE: Do not use more than 690 kPa (100 psi) air to clean the cooler and lines. Exceeding 690
kPa (100 psi) could damage the cooler or lines.
A. Using clean solvent and compressed air, back-flush the oil cooler and lines. B. Using
compressed air, remove the cleaning solvent. C. Flush the system using the same type of oil
normally circulated through the cooler.
2. Bolt or nut from bracket or clamp. 3. Oil filter and discard. 4. Oil cooler lines from the clip or
strap. 5. Oil cooler lines from the oil cooler at fitting.
CLEAN
- All components in a suitable solvent and dry with compressed air.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2669
INSPECT
- All fittings, connectors, and cooler lines for damage or distortion.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Do not use more than 690 kPa (100 psi) air to clean the cooler and lines. Exceeding 690
kPa (100 psi) could damage the cooler or lines.
Installing Oil Cooler Line Clip Into Connector
- Using your thumb and forefinger, insert the connector clip into one of the three recesses in the
connector (C in image). With one end of the clip engaged in the connector slot, use your thumb and
rotate the clip around the connector until it snaps into place (D and E in image).
NOTICE: Make sure the connector clip engages all three slots in the connector. Failure to properly
install the connector clip could cause the oil cooler line to come loose and cause damage to the
engine.
1. Oil cooler lines to the oil cooler.
TIGHTEN
- Oil cooler line fittings to 23 Nm (17 lbs. ft.).
2. Oil cooler lines to the clip or strap.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt to 6 Nm (53 lbs. in.).
3. Bolt or nut to bracket or clamp.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt to 9 Nm (80 lbs. in.).
- Nut to 13 Nm (115 lbs. in.).
4. New oil filter.
- Test the flow of oil through the cooler before connecting the lines.
- If the flow is not restricted, connect the oil lines to the connector.
- A distinct "snap" should be heard when assembling the oil cooler line to the quick connector. The
oil cooler line must be fully inserted into the quick connector. Check this by applying a forceful pull
to the fitting.
- If the flow is restricted, replace the radiator.
5. Run the engine and check for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2670
Oil Line: Service and Repair Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting
This article has been updated with bulletin No.: 65-71-02
OIL COOLER QUICK CONNECT FITTING
This bulletin has been created to enhance the support of the removal and installation of oil cooler
lines from and to quick connect fittings on engines and transmissions. The content of this bulletin
replaces any existing cooler line quick connect fitting procedures.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2671
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 1
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2672
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 2
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2673
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 3
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Line, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Oil Cooler Lines > Page 2674
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 4
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Oil Pan: Service and Repair
OIL PAN REPLACEMENT
Note: A one-piece type oil pan gasket is used
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Oil level indictor.
- Raise the vehicle. Support with safety stands.
- Drain the crankcase.
3. Exhaust crossover pipe. 4. Flywheel torque converter inspection cover. 5. Transmission oil
cooler line retainer from the bracket, (automatic transmission only). 6. Oil filter. 7. Oil filter adapter
from the lines.
- Tie oil cooler lines out of the way.
8. Oil pan bolts, nuts, and strut rods, (if equipped). 9. Oil pan and gasket.
- Clean gasket surfaces on the engine and oil pan.
- Inspect oil pan gasket for damage. Replace if necessary.
Install or Connect
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pan, Engine >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Page 2678
Apply sealant GM P/N 1052080 or equivalent to the front cover to block joint and to the rear
crankshaft seal to block joint. Apply the sealant for about 25 mm (1 inch) in both directions from
each of the four corners.
1. Oil pan gasket to the oil pan. 2. Oil pan to the engine. 3. Oil pan bolts, nuts, and strut rods, (If
equipped).
- Tighten oil pan bolts and nuts to 25 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
4. Oil filter adapter to the oil cooler lines. 5. Oil filter. 6. Transmission oil cooler line retainer to the
bracket, (automatic transmission only). 7. Flywheel/torque convector inspection cover. 8. Exhaust
crossover pipe. 9. Lower the vehicle.
10. Oil level indicator. 11. Negative battery cable.
- Fill with the proper quantity and grade of engine oil.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Gauge >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate
1. Remove lead from sensor, then connect tester J 33431-A or equivalent to sensor lead and
ground.
2. If gauge responds accurately to tester, replace sensor.
3. If gauge does not respond accurately to tester, replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Gauge >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate > Page 2683
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads High
1. Disconnect lead from sensor, then turn ignition switch to the ON position and ground lead. 2. If
gauge reads low, replace sensor. 3. If gauge reads high, locate and repair open circuit between
sensor and gauge.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Gauge >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate > Page 2684
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads Low
1. Check oil level, add if necessary. 2. Turn ignition switch to the On position. 3. Remove oil
pressure sensor lead at sensor, gauge should read high. 4. If gauge stays low, remove sensor lead
at gauge. Gauge should read high. If gauge reads high, locate and repair short to ground between
gauge and
sensor.
5. If gauge still reads low, replace cluster. 6. With lead removed at sensor, connect an ohmmeter to
sensor. With engine stopped resistance should be one ohm, and approximately 44 ohms with
engine running.
7. If sensor reads significantly lower than 44 ohms with engine running, replace sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Sender >
Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 2692
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 2693
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Switch (For
Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 2694
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pressure Warning
Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Many trucks use a warning light on the instrument panel in place of the conventional dash
indicating gauge to warn the driver when the oil pressure is dangerously low. The warning light is
wired in series with the ignition switch and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch. The oil
pressure switch contains a diaphragm and a set of contacts. When the ignition switch is turned on,
the warning light circuit is energized and the circuit is completed through the closed contacts in the
pressure switch. When the engine is started, build-up of oil pressure compresses the diaphragm,
opening the contacts, thereby breaking the circuit causing the light to go out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Engine Lubrication > Oil Pump, Engine > Engine
Oil Pressure > Component Information > Specifications
Engine Oil Pressure: Specifications
OIL PRESSURE
Minimum Hot:
1000 rpm .............................................................................................................................................
............................................ 41.4 kPa (6.0 psi) 2000 rpm ...................................................................
................................................................................................................... 124.1 kPa (18.0 psi) 4000
rpm ......................................................................................................................................................
............................... 165.4 kPa (24.0 psi)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
Intake Manifold: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 00-06-01-026C
Date: February 03, 2010
Subject: Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement After Severe Internal Engine Damage
Models:
2010 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-01-026B (Section 06 - Engine).
When replacing an engine due to internal damage, extreme care should be taken when transferring
the intake manifold to the new Goodwrench service engine long block. Internal damage may result
in the potential discharge of internal engine component debris in the intake manifold via broken
pistons and/or bent, broken, or missing intake valves. After removing the intake manifold from the
engine, the technician should carefully inspect all of the cylinder head intake ports to see if the
valve heads are still present and not bent. Usually when the valve heads are missing or sufficiently
bent, internal engine component debris will be present to varying degrees in the intake port of the
cylinder head. If this debris is present in any of the cylinder head intake ports, the intake manifold
should be replaced. This replacement is required due to the complex inlet runner and plenum
configuration of most of the intake manifolds, making thorough and complete component cleaning
difficult and nearly impossible to verify complete removal of debris. Re-installation of an intake
manifold removed from an engine with deposits of internal engine component debris may result in
the ingestion of any remaining debris into the new Goodwrench service engine. This may cause
damage or potential failure of the new service engine.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement > Page 2706
Intake Manifold: Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Use of Wacker RTV Sealant for Intake
Manifold
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-61-17A
Date: August, 1996
Subject: Use of Wacker T-330 RTV Sealant (Pronounced Vaucker T)
Models: 1990-96 Buick Road master, Estate Wagon 1990-96 Cadillac Fleetwood 1990-96
Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice, Corvette, Impala SS 1990-92 Oldsmobile Custom Cruiser 1990-96
Pontiac Firebird with 4.3L, 5.7L Engine (VINs W, P, 5, 8 - RPOs L99, L98, LT1, LT4) 1990-96
Chevrolet and GMC Light and Medium Duty Trucks with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 6.0L, 7.0L, 7.4L Engines
(VINs W, Z, E H, K, M, N, P, R - RPOs L35, LB4, L03, L05, LS0, LR0, L19, L30, L31)
This bulletin is being revised to add further Chevrolet models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 67-61-17 (Section 6 - Engine).
When installing the intake manifold, use a 5 mm (1/4 in.) thick bead of Wacker T-330 RTV, P/N
12346192, on the front and rear sealing areas between
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Engine - Intake Manifold Inspection/Replacement > Page 2707
the engine block and intake manifold. See Figures 1 and 2. Wacker T-330 RTV has improved
adhesive abilities, is oxygen sensor safe, and is noncorrosive to ferrous metals. Wacker T-330 RW
cannot be used in coolant sealing surface areas.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Specifications > Lower Intake Manifold Torque and Sequence
Intake Manifold: Specifications
Upper Manifold Bolts First Step 44 in.lb
Final Step 88 in.lb
Lower Manifold bolts First Step 27 in.lb
Second Step 106 in.lb
Final Step 11 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Replacement (Upper)
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Replacement (Upper)
Removal
Upper Intake Removal
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Air cleaner intake duct. 3. Wiring harness connectors and brackets
and move aside. 4. Throttle linkage and bracket from upper intake manifold. 5. Cruise control
cable, (if equipped). 6. Fuel lines from intake to the rear of the block. 7. PCV hose at upper intake
manifold. 8. Ignition coil and bracket. Refer to: See: Powertrain Management/Ignition
System/Ignition Coil/Service and Repair 9. Purge solenoid and bracket.
10. Upper intake manifold bolts and studs.
- Mark the location of all studs for proper reassembly.
11. Upper intake manifold.
Installation
Upper Intake Installation
Install or Connect
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Replacement (Upper) > Page 2712
1. Upper intake manifold gasket. 2. Upper intake manifold.
- Use care not to pinch the injector lines between the upper and lower intake manifolds.
3. Upper intake manifold bolts. Note the marks made at disassembly for proper stud location.
Tighten Bolts in two steps. The first pass to 5 Nm (45 lb. in.).
- The final pass to 10 Nm (83 lb. in.) Install the two corner studs first to help align the two halves.
4. Purge solenoid and bracket. 5. Ignition coil and bracket. 6. PCV hose at upper intake manifold.
7. Fuel lines from intake to the rear of the block. 8. Cruise control cable. 9. Throttle linkage and
bracket from upper intake manifold.
10. Wiring harness connectors and brackets. 11. Air cleaner intake duct. 12. Negative battery
cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Replacement (Upper) > Page 2713
Intake Manifold: Service and Repair Replacement (Lower)
Removal
Lower Intake Removal
Remove or Disconnect
1. Distributor. Refer to: See: Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks/Distributor/Service and
Repair
- Mark the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor for proper reassembly.
2. Upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing. 3. Heater hose at lower intake manifold. Refer to:
See: Cooling System/Heater Hose/Service and Repair 4. EGR valve. Refer to: See: Powertrain
Management/Emission Control Systems/Exhaust Gas Recirculation/EGR Valve/Service and Repair
5. Coolant bypass hose. 6. EGR valve. 7. Fuel Supply and return lines at rear of lower intake
manifold. 8. Wiring harness and brackets. 9. Throttle cable and bracket.
10. Cruise control cable (if equipped). 11. Left valve rocker cover. Refer to: See: Cylinder Head
Assembly/Valve Cover/Service and Repair 12. Transmission oil level indicator tube, (if equipped).
13. EGR inlet tube, clamp, and bolt. 14. PCV valve and vacuum hoses. 15. Air conditioning
compressor and bracket. Refer to: See: Heating and Air Conditioning/Compressor HVAC/Service
and Repair
- Lay the A/C compressor out of the way. Do not kink the air conditioning lines.
- Loosen the A/C compressor mounting bracket and slide forward, do not remove.
16. Power brake vacuum tube. 17. Generator rear bracket bolt, (if needed). 18. Lower intake
manifold bolts. 19. Lower intake manifold.
Installation
Lower Intake Installation
Install or Connect
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Replacement (Upper) > Page 2714
1. Gaskets to the cylinder head with the port blocking plates facing the rear of the engine and "this
side up" stamping facing up.
2. RTV to the front and rear sealing surfaces on the block. Apply a 5 mm (3/16 inch) bead of RTV
GM P/N 1052366 or equivalent to the front and
rear of the block. Extend the bear 13 mm (1/2 inch) up each cylinder head to seal and retain the
gaskets.
3. Lower intake manifold to engine.
- Apply sealer, GM P/N 1052080 or equivalent, to the lower intake manifold bolts.
4. Lower intake manifold bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Intake Manifold > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Replacement (Upper) > Page 2715
Tighten Bolts in three steps using the sequence shown. The first sequence to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.)
- The second sequence to 12 Nm (106 lb. in.)
- The final sequence to 15 Nm (11 lb. ft.)
5. Wiring harness connectors and brackets. 6. Upper radiator hose at thermostat housing. 7.
Heater hose at lower intake manifold. 8. Coolant by pass hose. 9. EGR valve.
10. Valve rocker arm cover. 11. Fuel supply and return lines at rear of lower intake manifold. 12.
Wiring harness and brackets. 13. Cruise control cable. 14. Throttle cable and bracket. 15.
Transmission oil level indicator tube. 16. EGR inlet tube, clamp and bolt. 17. PCV valve and
vacuum tube. 18. Power brake vacuum tube. 19. Generator and bracket bolt, (if needed). 20. Air
conditioning compressor and bracket. 21. Distributor.
- Note the relationship of the distributor housing and rotor made at disassembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate
1. Remove lead from sensor, then connect tester J 33431-A or equivalent to sensor lead and
ground.
2. If gauge responds accurately to tester, replace sensor.
3. If gauge does not respond accurately to tester, replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate > Page 2721
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads High
1. Disconnect lead from sensor, then turn ignition switch to the ON position and ground lead. 2. If
gauge reads low, replace sensor. 3. If gauge reads high, locate and repair open circuit between
sensor and gauge.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Readings Are Inaccurate > Page 2722
Oil Pressure Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads Low
1. Check oil level, add if necessary. 2. Turn ignition switch to the On position. 3. Remove oil
pressure sensor lead at sensor, gauge should read high. 4. If gauge stays low, remove sensor lead
at gauge. Gauge should read high. If gauge reads high, locate and repair short to ground between
gauge and
sensor.
5. If gauge still reads low, replace cluster. 6. With lead removed at sensor, connect an ohmmeter to
sensor. With engine stopped resistance should be one ohm, and approximately 44 ohms with
engine running.
7. If sensor reads significantly lower than 44 ohms with engine running, replace sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Lamps and Indicators - Engine > Oil Pressure
Warning Lamp/Indicator > Component Information > Description and Operation
Oil Pressure Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
Many trucks use a warning light on the instrument panel in place of the conventional dash
indicating gauge to warn the driver when the oil pressure is dangerously low. The warning light is
wired in series with the ignition switch and the engine unit--which is an oil pressure switch. The oil
pressure switch contains a diaphragm and a set of contacts. When the ignition switch is turned on,
the warning light circuit is energized and the circuit is completed through the closed contacts in the
pressure switch. When the engine is started, build-up of oil pressure compresses the diaphragm,
opening the contacts, thereby breaking the circuit causing the light to go out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Crankshaft Main
Bearing Seal > Component Information > Service and Repair
Crankshaft Main Bearing Seal: Service and Repair
Fig. 10 Seal Removal Notches
Rear oil seal installation
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Remove transmission assembly. 3. Remove clutch, flywheel
or flex plate. 4. Insert suitable screwdriver into notches provided in the seal retainer, Fig. 10, and
remove rear oil seal. Carefully remove seal to avoid nicking
the crankshaft sealing surface.
INSTALLATION
1. Using rear crankshaft seal installer tool No. J-35621, or equivalent, install crankshaft rear oil seal
as follows:
a. Using clean engine oil, lubricate inner and outer diameters of seal. b. Install new seal onto tool,
Fig. 11. c. Thread attaching screws into the tapped holes in the crankshaft. d. Using a screwdriver,
tighten attaching screws. This will ensure the seal is installed properly over crankshaft assembly. e.
Turn tool handle until it bottoms out. f.
Remove tool.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 1539013 > Jul > 04 > Engine - SES Lamp
ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve Guide Seal: Customer Interest Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Guide Seal: > 1539013 >
Jul > 04 > Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing Uphill
Valve Guide Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - SES Lamp ON/Misfire DTC' Set Towing
Uphill
Subject: SES Light and P0300 When Towing, Cruising Uphill or on hard Acceleration - kw 4.3, 5.0,
5.7 accelerate cruise cylinderhead DTC L30, L31, L35, LF6, LU3, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303,
P0304, P0305, P0306, P0307 P0308 # PIP3081 - (07/23/2004)
Models:
The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom described in the PI.
Condition/Concern:
The vehicle may exhibit a SES Light due to a P0300 and misfire. If the misfire is related to the
information below, it will typically happen while cruising uphill, pulling a trailer or on hard
acceleration and then stop misfiring shortly after returning to an idle. Typically, cylinders 3, 4, 5 or 6
will be the ones to experience this.
Recommendation/Instructions:
If the P0300 SI diagnostics did not isolate a concern, the following may help:
Remove the valve cover, valve springs and valve seals on the effected cylinder or cylinders. A
small wire tie or rubber bands can be placed in the valve stem keeper groove to prevent the valve
from falling into the cylinder. Rotate the valve while moving it up and down in the guide to see if it
binds. If a binding valve is found, remove both cylinder heads and use either of the following
methods to increase the stem to guide clearance:
^ Send the head out to a machine shop and advise them to increase the valve stem to guide
clearance to 0.002 inch per guide.
^ Hone the guide with a 9 mm hone, such as Snap On BCG249, until a clearance of 0.002 inch is
obtained. This will usually take about 4 strokes of the hone.
Reassemble the cylinder heads using new valve seals.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited
is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed. If
these steps do not resolve the condition, please contact GM TAC for further diagnostic assistance.
Models Affected
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Guide Seal: > 676115 >
May > 96 > Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation
Valve Guide Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-61-15
Date: May, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6A4B, 6A5B - Engine Mechanical - Valve Stem Oil Seal Installation
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, P, G Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L,
5.0L, 5.7L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
Service Manual information for installing valve stem oil seals is incorrect in 1996 model year S/T,
M/L, C/K, G, and P platform service information manuals.
The procedure below details the correct installation for the engines and model years listed. Please
update your service manuals with this information. The valve stem oil seals must be installed with
Kent-Moore tool J 42073.
1. Install valve spring compressor J 8062 onto the valve spring and compress the valve spring.
2. Remove the valve keys.
3. Remove the valve spring and cap.
4. Remove the old valve stem oil seal.
5. Clean the valve spring seat area. It must be free of any foreign material.
6. Lubricate the valve stem oil seal and guide with clean engine oil.
7. Install the valve stem oil seal onto the valve stem. Push seal down until the seal contacts valve
guide.
Important:
The valve must be installed into the cylinder head to properly align tool J 42073 over the valve
guide.
8. Place J 42073 over the valve stem and oil seal. Tap on tool J 42073 until the tool bottoms out
against the valve spring seat (Figure 1).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Guide Seal: > 676115 >
May > 96 > Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation > Page 2747
Important:
Valve stem oil seal alignment onto the valve guide is critical.
Important:
A correctly installed seal should not bottom against the valve guide. There should be a 1-2 mm
(0.03937-0.07874") gap between the bottom edge of the seal and the valve guide (Figure 2).
9. Install the valve spring and cap.
10. Install valve spring compressor J 8062 onto the valve spring and compress spring.
11. Install the valve keys.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Valve Guide Seal: > 676115 > May >
96 > Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation
Valve Guide Seal: All Technical Service Bulletins Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-61-15
Date: May, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6A4B, 6A5B - Engine Mechanical - Valve Stem Oil Seal Installation
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, P, G Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L,
5.0L, 5.7L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
Service Manual information for installing valve stem oil seals is incorrect in 1996 model year S/T,
M/L, C/K, G, and P platform service information manuals.
The procedure below details the correct installation for the engines and model years listed. Please
update your service manuals with this information. The valve stem oil seals must be installed with
Kent-Moore tool J 42073.
1. Install valve spring compressor J 8062 onto the valve spring and compress the valve spring.
2. Remove the valve keys.
3. Remove the valve spring and cap.
4. Remove the old valve stem oil seal.
5. Clean the valve spring seat area. It must be free of any foreign material.
6. Lubricate the valve stem oil seal and guide with clean engine oil.
7. Install the valve stem oil seal onto the valve stem. Push seal down until the seal contacts valve
guide.
Important:
The valve must be installed into the cylinder head to properly align tool J 42073 over the valve
guide.
8. Place J 42073 over the valve stem and oil seal. Tap on tool J 42073 until the tool bottoms out
against the valve spring seat (Figure 1).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Seals and Gaskets, Engine > Valve Guide Seal >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Valve Guide Seal: > 676115 > May >
96 > Valve Stem Oil Seal - Correct Installation > Page 2753
Important:
Valve stem oil seal alignment onto the valve guide is critical.
Important:
A correctly installed seal should not bottom against the valve guide. There should be a 1-2 mm
(0.03937-0.07874") gap between the bottom edge of the seal and the valve guide (Figure 2).
9. Install the valve spring and cap.
10. Install valve spring compressor J 8062 onto the valve spring and compress spring.
11. Install the valve keys.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Sender > Component Information > Locations
Oil Pressure Sender: Locations
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 2762
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 2763
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Sensors and Switches - Engine > Oil Pressure
Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 2764
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Chain > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Timing Chain: Service and Repair
Fig. 8 Timing Mark Alignment
1. Remove Front Cover. 2. Remove crankshaft oil slinger. 3. Crank engine until 0.0 marks on
sprockets are in alignment, Fig. 8. 4. Remove three camshaft to sprocket bolts. 5. Remove
camshaft sprocket and timing chain together. Sprocket is a light press fit on camshaft for
approximately 1/8 inch. If sprocket does not
come off easily, a light blow with a plastic hammer on the lower edge of the sprocket should
dislodge it.
6. If crankshaft sprocket is to be replaced, remove it with a gear puller. Install new sprocket,
aligning key and keyway. 7. Install chain onto camshaft sprocket. Hold sprocket with chain hanging
vertically, then align marks on sprockets as shown, Fig. 8. The valve
timing marks shown in Fig. 8 do not indicate TDC compression stroke for No. 1 cylinder, which is
used during distributor installation. If distributor was removed, install timing chain and sprockets,
aligning timing marks, Fig. 8, then rotate engine until No. 1 cylinder is on compression and
camshaft timing mark is 180 degrees from valve timing position shown in Fig. 8.
8. Align dowel in camshaft with dowel hole in sprocket and install sprocket on camshaft. Do not
attempt to drive sprocket on camshaft, as welch plug
at rear of engine can be dislodged.
9. Draw sprocket onto camshaft, using the three mounting bolts. Tighten to specifications.
10. Lubricate timing chain and install cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Timing Components > Timing Cover > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Timing Cover: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
NOTE: Any time the composite front cover is removed, the cover needs to be replaced upon
reassembly. If the cover that was removed is reinstalled, oil leaks may develop.
1. Remove the crankshaft balancer (external). 2. Remove the water pump. 3. Loosen the oil pan. 4.
Remove the crankshaft position sensor. Refer to Powertrain Management. 5. Remove the front
cover bolts.
NOTE: Use care when removing the front cover from the front of the oil pan seal.
6. Remove the front cover. 7. Clean the varnish and sludge build up from the front cover area.
INSTALLATION
1. Install the front cover and bolts. Use care when engaging the front of the oil pan sealing surface
and Gasket with the bottom of the front cover.
Install RTV to the lower corners of the front cover to aid in sealing. ^
Tighten the front cover bolts to 12 Nm (106 inch lbs.).
2. Install the crankshaft position sensor. Refer to Powertrain Management. 3. Install the oil pan.
Refer to Engine. 4. Install the water pump. 5. Install the crankshaft balancer (external). Refer to
Engine
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Pressure > Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Specifications > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Specifications Controlled Idle Speed
Under 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Over 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle
Speed > System Information > Adjustments > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Adjustments Controlled Idle Speed
NOTE: There should be no Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s displayed. The idle air control system
has been checked.
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Block the drive wheels. 3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link
Connector (DLC) connector with the tool in the open mode. 4. Start the engine. 5. Bring the engine
to the normal operating temperature. 6. Check for the correct state of the Transmission Range (TR)
switch position on the scan tool. 7. Check the specifications for controlled idle speed and Idle Air
Control (IAC) valve pintle position (counts). Refer to Idle Air Control Valve /
Service and Repair. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Idle Air Control
(IAC) Valve/Service and Repair
8. If within specifications, the idle speed is being correctly controlled by the control module. 9. If not
within specifications, refer to Driveability Symptoms. Refer to System Diagnosis for testing
information. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Specifications
Air intake duct screw ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 2 Nm (18 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2787
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Service and Repair
Air Intake Duct Retainer Bolt
Air Intake Duct
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the retainer. 2. Remove the screw. 3. Remove the air intake duct
Installation Procedure
1. Install the air intake duct. 2. Install the screw.
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 Nm (18 lb. in.).
3. Install the retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 2796
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Air Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page
2802
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2803
Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection
The air cleaner restriction indicator is located on the intake duct between the air cleaner assembly
and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
If the area inside of the clear section is green, no air filter service is required. If the area inside the
clear section is orange and Change Air Filter appears, replace the air filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air
Cleaner Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2804
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Cleaner Element Holddown
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the hold down clips. 2. Remove the air cleaner cover. 3. Remove the filter. Hold the
duct and remove the filter by pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. 4. Clean the air
cleaner housing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filter.
- Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stops of the duct.
- Install the duct and filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the
housing.
2. Install the air cleaner cover. 3. Connect the hold down clips. 4. Push the button on the top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (Clean) filter zone.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel
Filter > Fuel Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing
Order > Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Crankshaft Rotation
Crankshaft Rotation (Typical Crankshaft Pulley)
Crankshaft rotation is clockwise when viewed from in front of the crankshaft pulley as shown in the
generic image.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation > Page 2822
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Timing Marks
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Vehicle Control Module (VCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug Wire: Specifications
0-15 inch cable ....................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 3,000 - 10,000 ohms.
15-25 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 4,000 - 15,000 ohms.
25-35 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 6,000 - 20,000 ohms.
Longer wires should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2826
Spark Plug Wire: Locations
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
Wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when wires have been
disconnected or when replacement of the wires is necessary. Failure to route the wires properly
can lead to radio ignition noise and crossfiring of the plugs or shorting of the leads to ground
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2827
Spark Plug Wire: Service Precautions
Service Precautions
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
NOTE: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of being
fully seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the in
stalled boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core erosion
and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2828
Spark Plug Wire: Testing and Inspection
VISUAL INSPECTION
1. Inspect the routing of the wires. Improper routing can cause crossfiring. 2. Inspect each wire for
any signs of cracks or splits in the wire. 3. Inspect each boot for signs of tears, piercing, arc
through, or carbon tracking. If the boot needs to be replaced, twist it a half-turn in either direction
to break the seal before pulling on the boot to remove the wire.
SPARK PLUG WIRE RESISTANCE TEST
1. Disconnect both ends of each wire. Make sure the wire terminals are clean. 2. Set ohmmeter on
the high scale and connect it to each end of the wire being tested. Twist the wire gently while
watching ohmmeter. 3. If ohmmeter reads above 30,000 ohms (no matter how long the wire is), or
fluctuates from infinity any value, replace the wire. 4. If the resistance of any wire is not within the
following ranges, replace the wire being tested.
- 0 to 381 mm (0 to 15 in.) wire - 3,000 to 10,000 ohms.
- 381 mm to 635 mm (15 in. to 25 in.) wire - 4,000 to 15,000 ohms.
- 635 mm to 889 mm (25 in. to 35 in.) wire - 6,000 to 20,000 ohms.
- Longer wire - should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2829
Spark Plug Wire: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
SERVICE CAUTIONS
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark
Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2830
WARNING: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of
being seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the
installed boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core
erosion and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the
engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT
Spark plug wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when spark plug
wires have been disconnected or when replacement of the spark plug wires is necessary. Failure to
route the spark plug wires properly can lead to radio noise and crossfiring of the spark plugs, or
shorting of the leads to ground. The correct routing is shown in the images.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
CHEVROLET 71-65-40
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTION 6E - REVISED ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND
OPERATION
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTION 6E - ENGINE CONTROLS REVISED
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODELS: 1995-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, GMT600, P MODELS 1996-97
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L ENGINE (VINS W, M, R, J - RPOS L35,
L30, L31, L29)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO INFORM TECHNICIANS OF A REVISION TO THE
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION. THE DISTRIBUTOR IS
NOW REPAIRABLE. TECHNICIANS WILL BE REFERRED TO DISTRIBUTOR OVERHAUL IN
ENGINE ELECTRICAL FOR PROPER REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF ALL COMPONENTS.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
> Page 2835
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition - Distributor Service Kits Now Available
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-64-04
Date: April, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Distributor Service Kits
Models:
1995 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Utility Models with 4.3L OBDII Engines ONLY (VIN W - RPO L35)
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada 1997 Chevrolet and GMC
C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engines (VINs W, X, M,
R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29)
Service kits are now available to field service Distributor Assemblies.
Important:
Fastening screws have pre-applied thread locking adhesive and should be discarded after removal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
> Page 2836
1995 4.3L L35 OBDII Distributor Assemblies are now serviced with 1996 Distributor Assemblies
(P/N 1104050). Installation instructions are included with each replacement assembly and must be
followed.
The following Service Kits are now available:
Important:
Removed fasteners are not to be re-used. Always use the new fasteners supplied in each kit.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
> Page 2837
Warranty Information
For Vehicles repaired under warranty use the table shown.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2838
Distributor: Specifications
Distributor clamp and bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................. 27 N.m (20 lbs. ft.) Distributor cap screws ........................................
....................................................................................................................... 4.5-5.0 N.m (40-45 lbs.
in.)
Distributor rotor ....................................................................................................................................
................................................... 2 N.m (20 lbs. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2839
Distributor: Locations
Top of Engine, at rear, near Bulkhead
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2840
Distributor: Application and ID
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation
Distributor: Description and Operation Distributor Operation
DISTRIBUTORS
Distributor
This ignition system includes the distributor, hall effect switch, ignition coil, secondary wires, spark
plugs, knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The ignition system is controlled by the vehicle
control module (VCM). The VCM monitors information from various engine sensors, computes the
desired spark timing and controls the dwell and firing of the ignition coil via an ignition control line to
the coil driver.
The distributor connects the ignition coil and spark plugs through secondary wires. The rotor directs
the spark to the appropriate cylinder. The distributor has a hall effect switch that connects to the
VCM through the primary engine harness and provides cylinder identification information.
Identification
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Ignition Coil
The coil driver controls the current flow in the primary winding of the ignition coil when signaled by
the VCM. The interconnects are made by the primary engine harness. The ignition coil can
generate up to 35,000 volts and connects to the distributor through a secondary wire.
Secondary Wires
The secondary wires carry voltage between the ignition coil, distributor, and spark plugs. The
secondary wire connections form a tight seal that prevents voltage arching.
Hall Effect Switch
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
The crankshaft position sensor connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and
provides crank- shaft reference information to the VCM for spark and fuel delivery. The crankshaft
position sensor is located in the front cover behind the crankshaft balancer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation > Page 2843
Distributor: Description and Operation General Description
Distributor
The distributor is actually an assembly that contains the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, cap,
rotor and shaft. The distributor is splined by a helical gear to the camshaft and provides spark to
each spark plug wire. when servicing the distributor, it is critical to ensure proper cap sealing to the
distributor body and correct installation to the camshaft. If the distributor is installed a tooth off in
relation to the camshaft, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will set. The distributor is not repairable
and must be replaced as an assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 2844
Distributor: Testing and Inspection
NOTICE: Discoloration of the cap and some whitish build up around the cap terminals is normal.
Yellowing of the rotor cap, darkening and some carbon build-up under the rotor segment is normal.
Replacement of the cap and rotor is not necessary unless there is a driveablity concern.
Inspect 1. Cap for cracks, tiny holes or carbon tracks between cap terminal traces. Carbon tracks
can be diagnosed by using an ohmmeter. With the cap
removed, place one base ohmmeter lead on a cap terminal. Use the other lead to probe all other
terminals and the center carbon ball. Move the base lead to the next terminal and probe all other
leads. Continue until all secondary terminals have been tested. If there are any non-infinite
readings, replace the cap.
2. Cap for excessive build up of corrosion on the terminals. Scrape them clean or replace the cap.
Some build up is normal.
3. Rotor segment. Replace the rotor if there is excessive wear on the rotor segment or the plastic
under the segment or staked post is melted. Some
looseness of the rotor segment is normal and does not cause performance problems.
4. Shaft for shaft-to-bushing looseness. Insert the shaft in the housing. If the shaft wobbles, replace
the housing assembly.
5. Housing for cracks or damage.
^ Refer to Computers and Control Systems for ignition system diagnosis. See: Powertrain
Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Distributor: Adjustments Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2847
Distributor: Adjustments Timing Adjustment
NOTICE: The distributor is located in a fixed, non-adjustable position. No attempt should be made
to adjust the engine base timing by rotating the distributor. Attempting to do so may result in engine
cross-fire and mis-fire conditions.
The distributor ignition system has no provision for timing adjustment. The base timing is preset
when the engine is manufactured and no adjustment is possible.
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from its Initial position. if the intake manifold, cylinder head,
crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "procedure B"
must be followed to correctly install the distributor. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) code may
also indicate an Incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur.
Procedure B must then be used.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2848
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure A
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure A
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Spark plug and coil leads from the distributor cap. 2. Three wire hail effect switch plug from the
base of the distributor. 3. Two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 4. Distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil to note the position of the rotor segment in relation to the distributor
housing. Identify the mark with a 1. B. The distributor housing and intake manifold should also be
marked with a grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
5. Mounting clamp hold down bolt. 6. Distributor.
^ As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction, 42°. This will appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting
the position of the rotor segment, by placing a second mark on the base of the distributor, will aid in
achieving proper rotor alignment during distributor installation. Be sure to identify the second mark
on the base with the number 2.
Install or Connect
Distributor Alignment Indicator
A. If the original distributor is to be replaced, rather than repaired, remove the new distributor cap.
Using a grease pencil, place two marks on the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2849
new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.
B. When installing the distributor, align the rotor segment with the number 2 mark on the base of
the distributor. Guide the distributor into place,
making sure the grease pencil marks on the distributor housing and the intake manifold are in line.
As the the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction,
42°. ONCE THE DISTRIBUT0R IS COMPLETELY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the number 1 mark on the base. If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number 1 mark,
the gear teeth of the distributor and camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of time. To
correct this condition, remove the distributor and re-install it following the procedure at step B.
1. Distributor cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten the screws as the boss may strip. 2.
Distributor mounting clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch connector to base of the distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to
the distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly. You now must refer to procedure; B or proper distributor
installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2850
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure B
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure B
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF." ^
Bring the engine up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of cylinder number 1. Make sure it is on the
compression stroke.
A. Remove the distributor cap screws and cap to expose the rotor.
Rotor Location
B. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment
line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.
The rotor segment should point to the cap hold area as shown in the illustration.
C. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the mating drive tab in
the distributor. D. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the the spark plug towers are
perpendicular to the center line of the engine.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 2851
Installed Rotor Position
E. ONCE The DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned with the
pointer cast into the distributor base. This
pointer will have a "8" cast into it, indicating the distributor is to be used in a 8 cylinder engine. if the
rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the
distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again
to achieve proper alignment.
Install or Connect
1. Cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten as the boss may strip. 2. Distributor mounting
clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch plug to base of distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to the
distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor Removal
1. Remove the ignition coil wire harness from the ignition coil and distributor cap.
2. Remove two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 3. Distributor cap. 4. Remove the
distributor clamp bolt. 5. Remove the distributor and the distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2854
6. Remove the distributor gasket and discard.
Distributor Installation
1. Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.
2. Install the distributor cap screws. 3. Install the distributor cap.
4. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2855
5. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing. 5. Ensure
that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
7. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil
pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary. 8. Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing
toward the front of the engine. 9. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2856
10. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer
that is cast into the distributor base. 11. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few
degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft
may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct
part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
12. Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2857
13. Install the distributor cap onto the distributor. 14. Install the NEW distributor cap screws. Do not
overtighten the NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten the distributor cap screws to 2.4 Nm (21 in.
lbs.).
15. Install the ignition coil wire harness.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2858
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Disassembly and Assembly
Distributor Components
NOTICE: The distributor driven gear can be installed in two positions. Make sure when installing
the gear that the dimple found below the roll pin hole in the gear is on the same side as the rotor
segment. The dimple will not align directly with the rotor segment if not, the gear is Installed 180°
off and a no start condition may occur. Premature wear and damage may result.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two screws holding the cap to the housing. 2. Cap from the housing. 3. Two screws from the
rotor.
Vane Wheel In Distributor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2859
4. Rotor.
^ Note which locating holes (B) the rotor was removed from.
5. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. 6. Hall effect switch.
^ The square cut hole (C) in the vane wheel must be aligned with the hall effect switch in order to
remove the switch.
7. Roil pin from the shaft.
A. Note the dimple located below the roil pin hole on the one side of the gear. The dimple will be
used to properly orient the gear on the shaft
during assembly.
8. Driven gear, washer, and tang washer. 9. Shaft.
^ If the shaft can't be removed from the distributor housing due to varnish buildup, use a cloth
dampened with varnish remover to clean the shaft.
NOTICE: Failure to keep cleaning agents away from the hall effect switch may result in premature
failure.
Install or Connect
1. Hall effect switch. 2. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. Do not overtighten as the base
may strip.
3. Shaft. 4. Tang washer, washer, and driven gear.
^ When the driven gear is properly installed the dimple located below the roll pin hole, in the driven
gear, will be on the same side as the rotor segment when the rotor is installed in the distributor. If
the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be on the opposite of the rotor segment.
5. Roll pin. 6. Rotor.
^ "A" shows the mounting holes. "B" shows the locating holes.
7. Two screws holding rotor.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2.0 Nm (20 lbs. In.)
Installation of the distributor into the engine will require the distributor cap off of the assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2860
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Alignment/Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2861
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from the original position. If the intake manifold, cylinder
head, crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "Procedure
B" must be followed in order to correctly install the distributor. A DTC code may also indicate an
incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur. Procedure B must then
be used.
1. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the spark plug and the ignition coil wires from
distributor cap. 3. Remove the three-wire hall effect switch connector from the base of the
distributor. 4. Remove the two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing.
5. Remove the distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing.
Identify the mark with the number 1. B. Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a
grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
6. Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt. 7. Remove the distributor.
8. As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees. This will
appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting the position of the rotor segment by placing
a second mark on the base of the distributor will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the
distributor installation. Identify the second mark on the distributor housing at number 2.
Installation Procedure A
1. Remove the new distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2862
2. If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the
same location as the two marks on the original
housing.
3. When installing the distributor, align the rotor with mark made at location 2..
4. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the mounting hole in the distributor hold down base
is aligned over the mounting hole in the intake
manifold.
5. As the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction
about 42 degrees. 6. Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be
aligned with mark on the base in location number 1. If the rotor segment is
not aligned with the number 1 mark, the gear teeth of the distributor and the camshaft have
meshed one or more teeth out of time. In order to correct the condition, remove the distributor and
reinstall it.
7. Install the cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.
Tighten Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 Nm (45 lb in).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
8. Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2863
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
9. Install the three wire hall effect switch connector to the base of the distributor.
10. Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.
Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is
found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Refer to procedure B for proper distributor
installation.
Installation Procedure B
1. Rotate the number 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2.
Remove the distributor cap screws and the distributor cap to expose the rotor.
3. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white alignment line on the
lower portion of the shaft housing.
4. The rotor should point to the cap hold down mount nearest the flat side of the housing.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Distributor, Ignition > Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 2864
5. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor. 6.
Guide the distributor in place, ensuring that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the
centerline of engine. 7. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the pointer cast into the distributor base. This pointer will have a 6 or
8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. If the rotor
segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor
and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order
to achieve proper alignment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark plug type ....................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-932 Spark plug gap ................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.060 inch Spark plugs (new cylinder head) ........................................................................................
........................................................................ 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) Spark plugs (used cylinder head) ...
............................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2868
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Resistor-type. tapered-seat spark plugs are used. No gasket is used on these plugs. These spark
plugs are a High Efficiency (HE) spark plug that has a fine wire electrode, nickel plated shell and a
platinum pad across from the electrode. These features give the HE spark plug long life durability.
Refer to Specifications or to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label on the fan shroud for
correct gap information. See: Specifications
CONSTRUCTION
If the spark plug shell hex is not fully engaged in the spark plug socket wrench, the socket may
cock at an angle and cause insulator cracking and/or breakage during plug installation or removal.
OPERATION
Normal or average service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, low speed, and high speed
operation with some of each making up the daily total driving. Occasional or intermittent high-speed
driving is essential to good spark plug performance. It provides increased and sustained
combustion heat that burns away any excess deposits of carbon or oxide that may have
accumulated from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go or slow-speed driving. Spark plugs are
protected by an insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material that covers the spark plug
terminal and extends downward over a portion of the plug insulation These boots prevent
flash-over with resultant missing of the engine, even though a film is allowed to accumulate on the
exposed portion of plug porcelains.
Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator. Corona discharge is a steady
blue light appearing around the insulator. just above the shell crimp It is the visible evidence of a
high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be detected only in
darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the insulator just above
the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that combustion gases have
blown out between the shell and insulator.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2869
Spark Plug Diagnosis
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Spark Plug > Component Information > Specifications > Page 2870
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
CAUTION
^ Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the plugs from a
hot engine may cause the plug to seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads.
^ Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head or contamination of the cylinder
head threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of a new plug.
^ Do not install plugs that are either hotter or colder than the heat range specified. Using plugs of
the wrong heat range can severely damage the engine.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
CAUTION: Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn to release it. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do
not pull on the wire or the spark plug lead may be damaged.
1. Spark plug wires and boots.
^ Label the plug wires.
CAUTION: Be sure to use J 39358 or equivalent spark plug socket Failure to do so could cause
cracking of the insulator and arcing inside the plug, resulting in engine misfire.
2. Spark plugs using J 39358 or equivalent.
Inspect ^
Each spark plug for wear and gap.
^ Spark plugs should be gapped to 0.060 inch.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
CAUTION: Make sure each sparkplug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated.
Cross-threading or falling to fully seat spark plugs can cause overheating of the plugs, exhaust
blow-by, or thread damage.
1. Spark plugs.
Tighten ^
Spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) in a new cylinder head and 20 Nm (14 lb. ft.) in a used head.
2. Wire and boot assemblies. Refer to Spark Plug Wiring and Boots for precautions. See: Spark
Plug Wire/Service Precautions
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks >
Compression Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Minimum, 698 kPa (100 psi) @ 200 rpm. The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80%
of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs
removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Clearance Specifications
One turn down from zero lash.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications > Page 2878
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Arrangement
FRONT TO REAR
5.7L/V8-350 .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve
Clearance > System Information > Specifications > Page 2879
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
1. Remove rocker arm cover. 2. Crank engine until the mark on the vibration damper aligns with the
"0 mark on the timing tab and the engine is in the number one firing position.
This may be determined by placing fingers on valves of number one cylinder as the mark on the
damper comes near the " 0 mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is
in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the marks comes up to the timing tab,
the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the
number one firing position.
3. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8 and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 can
be adjusted. Even numbered cylinders are in the
right bank, odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank when viewed from the rear of the engine.
4. Back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod, then turn in the adjusting nut until all
lash is removed. This can be determined by
rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When play has been removed, turn the
adjusting nut in one full additional turn.
5. Crank engine one complete revolution until the timing tab " 0 mark and vibration damper mark
are aligned. This is the number six firing position. 6. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves
2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8 can be adjusted. 7. With valves properly adjusted,
install rocker arm cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Engine > Water Pump > Component Information > Service
and Repair
Water Pump: Service and Repair
Water pump replacement. 305/350
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Drain coolant from radiator. 3. Remove upper fan shroud. 4.
Remove drive belt. 5. Remove fan assembly from engine. 6. Lower radiator and heater hose from
the water pump. 7. Remove water pump attaching bolts and water pump, Fig. 15. 8. Reverse
procedure to install. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-002B
Date: January 18, 2008
INFORMATION
Subject: DEX-COOL(R) Coolant - New Leak Detection Dye J 46366 - Replaces J 29545-6
Models: 1996-2008 GM Passenger Cars and Light/Medium Duty Trucks* (including Saturn)
1997-2008 Isuzu T-Series Medium Duty Tilt Cab Models Built in Janesville and Flint 1999-2008
Isuzu N-Series Medium Duty Commercial Models with 5.7L or 6.0L Gas Engine
2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008 HUMMER H3 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X
*EXCLUDING 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo, Epica, Optra, Vivant and Pontiac Matiz, Wave
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to include additional model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-002A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Leak detection dye P/N 12378563 (J 29545-6) (in Canada P/N 88900915) may cause
DEX-COOL(R) coolant to appear green in a black vessel making it appear to be conventional
(green) coolant. This may cause a technician to add conventional coolant to a low DEX-COOL(R)
system thus contaminating it. The green DEX-COOL(R) appearance is caused by the color of the
leak detection dye which alters the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
A new leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (J 46366) (in Canada P/N 89022220) has been released
that does not alter the appearance of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant. When adding the new leak
detection dye the color of the DEX-COOL(R) coolant will not change. For detecting leaks on any
system that uses DEX-COOL(R) leak detection dye P/N 89022219 (in Canada P/N 89022220)
should be used. The new leak detection dye can be used with both conventional and
DEX-COOL(R) coolant.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2888
Coolant: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System - Coolant Recycling Information
Bulletin No.: 00-06-02-006D
Date: August 15, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Engine Coolant Recycling and Warranty Information
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior
HUMMER Vehicles 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Attention:
Please address this bulletin to the Warranty Claims Administrator and the Service Manager.
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to adjust the title and Include Warranty Information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-02-006C (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Coolant Reimbursement Policy
General Motors supports the use of recycled engine coolant for warranty repairs/service, providing
a GM approved engine coolant recycling system is used. Recycled coolant will be reimbursed at
the GMSPO dealer price for new coolant plus the appropriate mark-up. When coolant replacement
is required during a warranty repair, it is crucial that only the relative amount of engine coolant
concentrate be charged, not the total diluted volume. In other words: if you are using two gallons of
pre-diluted (50:50) recycled engine coolant to service a vehicle, you may request reimbursement
for one gallon of GM Goodwrench engine coolant concentrate at the dealer price plus the
appropriate warranty parts handling allowance.
Licensed Approved DEX-COOL(R) Providers
Important:
USE OF NON-APPROVED VIRGIN OR RECYCLED DEX-COOL(R) OR DEVIATIONS IN THE
FORM OF ALTERNATE CHEMICALS OR ALTERATION OF EQUIPMENT, WILL VOID THE GM
ENDORSEMENT, MAY DEGRADE COOLANT SYSTEM INTEGRITY AND PLACE THE
COOLING SYSTEM WARRANTY UNDER JEOPARDY.
Shown in Table 1 are the only current licensed and approved providers of DEX-COOL(R). Products
that are advertised as "COMPATIBLE" or "RECOMMENDED" for use with DEX-COOL(R) have not
been tested or approved by General Motors. Non-approved coolants may degrade the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2889
coolant system integrity and will no longer be considered a 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant.
Coolant Removal Services/Recycling
The tables include all coolant recycling processes currently approved by GM. Also included is a
primary phone number and demographic information. Used DEX-COOL(R) can be combined with
used conventional coolant (green) for recycling. Depending on the recycling service and/or
equipment, it is then designated as a conventional 2 yr/30,000 mile (50,000 km) coolant or
DEX-COOL(R) 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) coolant. Recycled coolants as designated in this
bulletin may be used during the vehicle(s) warranty period.
DEX-COOL(R) Recycling
The DEX-COOL(R) recycling service listed in Table 2 has been approved for recycling waste
engine coolants (DEX-COOL) or conventional) to DEX-COOL(R) with 5 yr/150,000 mile (240,000
km) usability. Recycling Fluid Technologies is the only licensed provider of Recycled
DEX-COOL(R) meeting GM6277M specifications and utilizes GM approved inhibitor packages.
This is currently a limited program being monitored by GM Service Operations which will be
expanded as demand increases.
Conventional (Green) Recycling
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2890
Processes shown in the Table 3 are capable of recycling waste engine coolants (DEX-COOL(R) or
conventional) to a conventional (green) coolant. Recycling conventional coolant can be
accomplished at your facility by a technician using approved EQUIPMENT (listed by model number
in Table 3), or by an approved coolant recycling SERVICE which may recycle the coolant at your
facility or at an offsite operation. Refer to the table for GM approved coolant recyclers in either of
these two categories. Should you decide to recycle the coolant yourself, strict adherence to the
operating procedures is imperative. Use ONLY the inhibitor chemicals supplied by the respective
(GM approved) recycling equipment manufacturer.
Sealing Tablets
Cooling System Sealing Tablets (Seal Tabs) should not be used as a regular maintenance item
after servicing an engine cooling system. Discoloration of coolant can occur if too many seal tabs
have been inserted into the cooling system. This can occur if seal tabs are repeatedly used over
the service life of a vehicle. Where appropriate, seal tabs may be used if diagnostics fail to repair a
small leak in the cooling system. When a condition appears in which seal tabs may be
recommended, a specific bulletin will be released describing their proper usage.
Water Quality
The integrity of the coolant is dependent upon the quality of DEX-COOL(R) and water.
DEX-COOL(R) is a product that has enhanced protection capability as well as an extended service
interval. These enhanced properties may be jeopardized by combining DEX-COOL(R) with poor
quality water. If you suspect the water in your area of being poor quality, it is recommended you
use distilled or de-ionized water with DEX-COOL(R).
"Pink" DEX-COOL(R)
DEX-COOL(R) is orange in color to distinguish it from other coolants. Due to inconsistencies in the
mixing of the dyes used with DEX-COOL(R), some batches may appear pink after time. The color
shift from orange to pink does not affect the integrity of the coolant, and still maintains the 5
yr/150,000 mile (240,000 km) service interval.
Back Service
Only use DEX-COOL(R) if the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System - DEX-COOL(R) Coolant Leak Detection Dye > Page 2891
Contamination
Mixing conventional green coolant with DEX-COOL(R) will degrade the service interval from 5
yrs./150,000 miles (240,000 km) to 2 yrs./30,000 miles (50,000 km) if left in the contaminated
condition. If contamination occurs, the cooling system must be flushed twice immediately and
re-filled with a 50/50 mixture of DEX-COOL(R) and clean water in order to preserve the enhanced
properties and extended service interval of DEX-COOL(R).
After 5 years/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
After 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km), the coolant should be changed, preferably using a coolant
exchanger. If the vehicle was originally equipped with DEX-COOL(R) and has not had problems
with contamination from non-DEX-COOL(R) coolants, then the service interval remains the same,
and the coolant does not need to be changed for another 5 yrs/150,000 miles (240,000 km)
Equipment (Coolant Exchangers)
The preferred method of performing coolant replacement is to use a coolant exchanger. A coolant
exchanger can replace virtually all of the old coolant with new coolant. Coolant exchangers can be
used to perform coolant replacement without spillage, and facilitate easy waste collection. They
can also be used to lower the coolant level in a vehicle to allow for less messy servicing of cooling
system components. It is recommended that you use a coolant exchanger with a vacuum feature
facilitates removing trapped air from the cooling system. This is a substantial time savings over
repeatedly thermo cycling the vehicle and topping-off the radiator. The vacuum feature also allows
venting of a hot system to relieve system pressure. Approved coolant exchangers are available
through the GMDE (General Motors Dealer Equipment) program.
For refilling a cooling system that has been partially or fully drained for repairs other than coolant
replacement, the Vac-N-Fill Coolant Refill Tool (GE-47716) is recommended to facilitate removal of
trapped air from the cooling system during refill.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Coolant: Capacity Specifications
Coolant Capacity, Qts.
Less A/C ..............................................................................................................................................
........................................................................ 17.5 With A/C .............................................................
...........................................................................................................................................................
20
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure, Lbs. .....................................................................................................
............................................................................... 15 Thermo. Opening Temp., deg.F .....................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 195
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant > Component Information >
Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 2894
Coolant: Fluid Type Specifications
ENGINE COOLANT
A 50/50 mixture of clean water (preferably distilled) and use only GM Goodwrench DEX-COOL or
Havoline DEX-COOL (orange-colored, silicate-free) coolant, or an approved recycled coolant
conforming to GM Specification 6038-M (GM P/N 1052103).
CAUTION: If silicate coolant is added to the cooling system, premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion may result. In addition, the coolant will require change SOONER, at 50 000 km
(30,000 miles) or 24 months.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams
Low Coolant Level Indicator Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 2898
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
This system uses a sensor mounted on the radiator and an indicator light mounted in the
instrument panel to warn the driver if coolant level is too low. This light is wired in series with the
ignition switch, ECM and the sensor. When the ignition switch is turned to the crank position, the
circuit is energized and the indicator light will illuminate. When the ignition switch is turned to the
ON position and coolant level is sufficient, the sensor will indicate this to the ECM and the light will
turn off.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
1. Turn ignition switch to the On position, then check coolant level and add coolant as necessary. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 2.
2. Disconnect electrical connector at the sensor. If lamp does not illuminate replace the sensor. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 3.
3. Connect electrical lead to the sensor and check for an open circuit between the sensor and the
module. Repair or replace as necessary. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Coolant Level Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated > Page 2901
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Will Not Illuminate
1. Turn ignition switch to the crank position, and proceed as follows: a.
If lamp illuminates, lamp is satisfactory and connector is properly installed. Proceed to step 2.
b. If lamp does not illuminate, check bulb, socket and wiring between socket and module
connector. Replace or repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition switch to the On position and disconnect electrical lead at coolant level sensor
mounted on the radiator. If lamp fails to illuminate, check wiring between coolant level sensor
connector and ECM for a short circuit to ground. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > A/C Pressure
Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan > Component Information > Locations
A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan: Locations
Front of Engine Compartment, on Condenser Manifold Tubing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Component Locations
Auxiliary Cooling Fan
Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature Switch
RH Cylinder Head, above Starter Solenoid
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 2910
Forward Lamps Harness, RH Side
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2913
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2914
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2915
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2931
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2932
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2934
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2935
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2937
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2939
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2940
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2941
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2942
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2943
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2944
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 2945
Cooling Fan
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Cooling System
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation Cooling System
This auxiliary cooling fan circuit consists of a coolant temperature sensor, a relay and the fan.
When the coolant sensor reaches a predetermined temperature, it closes the circuit to the relay
coil, which energizes the relay, passing 12 volts to the fan. When the coolant temperature
decreases below the set point of the sensor, the circuit to the relay opens and 12 volt power to the
fan stops. The fan only operates when the ignition is on and the coolant temperature sensor is
above the set temperature.
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Fan Motor > Component Information > Description and Operation > Cooling System > Page 2948
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Description and Operation Circuit Operation
Auxiliary Cooling Fan operating Voltage is available at all times from the 30 Amp AUX FAN
Mini-Fuse located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Voltage is provided from the Fuse through
the ORN (1540) wire which terminates at Pin 30 of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay. When the
Relay's Coil is energized, Relay contacts close to apply operating Voltage to the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan Motor. The RED (702) wire connects Relay Pin 87 to Motor Pin B. The Motor is grounded from
Pin A by the BLK (250) wire to Ground G112.
Voltage to the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil is available when the Ignition Switch is in RUN,
BULB TEST or START. Relay Coil Voltage is supplied at Pin 85 by the PNK (639) wire from the 10
Amp IGN E Mini-Fuse located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. The Auxiliary Cooling Fan
Relay Coil is energized whenever either of two potential ground paths is provided. The LT GRN
(37) wire connects Pin 86 of the Relay to Pin A of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature Switch
and to the mode of Diode D100. Diode D100 enables current flow through the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan A/C Pressure Switch when the Switch operates to ground the Relay Coil.
When the Engine coolant reaches a set point, the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature Switch closes
the contacts. This provides a ground path from the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil through the LT
GRN (37) wire and through the Switch contacts to ground at the Engine. The Temperature Switch
provides the ground connection at the Engine. The Relay Coil is energized, the contacts close, and
the Fan Motor starts.
The Auxiliary Cooling Fan will also operate when the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch
operates in response to an increasing compressor high side pressure. when the high side pressure
increases to a set point, the Pressure Switch contacts close. This provides a ground path for the
Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil through the LT GRN (37) wire to Diode D100. Through Diode
D100, through the LT ORN (1614) wire, trough the Pressure Switch contacts and through the BLK
(150) wire to Ground G105. The Relay Coil is energized, contacts close, and the Fan Motor starts.
Operation of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch can also affect the position of the Air
Conditioning Recirculation Door. During normal operation of the Recirculation Door, the A/C
Controller places the door in the Recirculation position by grounding the Recirculation Door Motor.
The ground path is through the DK GRN (1614) wire from door Pin A to A/C controller connector
C3, Pin 4. When the ground path is removed, the Recirculation Door moves from the Recirculation
Position.
When the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch operates to start the Auxiliary Cooling Fan, it
also provides another ground path for the Recirculation Door Motor. If the Door Motor is not already
grounded, it is now grounded from Pin 6 through the DK GRN (1614) wire, through Splice S212,
through Diode D101, through Splice S114, and through the Pressure Switch to Ground G105. The
Door Motor operates to place the Recirculation Door in the Recirculation Position.
Diode D100 prevents the Recirculation Door Motor from being grounded by the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan Temperature Switch. Diode D101 prevents operation of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan when the
A/C Controller grounds the Recirculation Door Motor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
1. CHECK condition of IGN E Fuse and AUX FAN Fuse. If either Fuse is open, then LOCATE and
REPAIR source of overload. Replace Fuse(s). 2. CHECK that Grounds G105, G112, and G200 are
clean and tight. 3. CHECK that the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay is securely mounted in its socket. 4.
If the Recirculation Door Motor does not move to the Recirculation position when the Auxiliary
Cooling Fan is operated by the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan A/C Pressure Switch, then Diode D101 may have opened.
5. If the Auxiliary Cooling Fan operates when the A/C controller places the Recirculation Door in
the Recirculation position, then Diode D101 may
have shorted.
6. If the Recirculation Door moves to the Recirculation position in response to Auxiliary Cooling Fan
operation by the Auxiliary Cooling Fan
Temperature Switch, then Diode D100 may have shorted.
7. If the Auxiliary Cooling Fan operates in response to the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature
Switch but not in response to the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan A/C Pressure Switch, then Diode D100 may have opened. CHECK for a broken (or partially
broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system malfunction but prove "GOOD" in a
Continuity/Voltage check with a system disconnected. These Circuits may be intermittent or
resistive when loaded, and if possible, should be checked by monitoring for a Voltage drop with the
system operational (under load).
^ CHECK for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity
of other systems (Refer "Troubleshooting Procedures"). See: Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 2951
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Auxiliary Cooling Fan Does Not Operate
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 2952
Auxiliary Cooling Fan Runs Continuously
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 2953
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Auxiliary Cooling Fan operating Voltage is available at all times from the 30 Amp AUX FAN
Mini-Fuse located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Voltage is provided from the Fuse through
the ORN (1540) wire which terminates at Pin 30 of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay. When the
Relay's Coil is energized, Relay contacts close to apply operating Voltage to the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan Motor. The RED (702) wire connects Relay Pin 87 to Motor Pin B. The Motor is grounded from
Pin A by the BLK (250) wire to Ground G112.
Voltage to the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil is available when the Ignition Switch is in RUN,
BULB TEST or START. Relay Coil Voltage is supplied at Pin 85 by the PNK (639) wire from the 10
Amp IGN E Mini-Fuse located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. The Auxiliary Cooling Fan
Relay Coil is energized whenever either of two potential ground paths is provided. The LT GRN
(37) wire connects Pin 86 of the Relay to Pin A of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature Switch
and to the mode of Diode D100. Diode D100 enables current flow through the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan A/C Pressure Switch when the Switch operates to ground the Relay Coil.
When the Engine coolant reaches a set point, the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Temperature Switch closes
the contacts. This provides a ground path from the Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil through the LT
GRN (37) wire and through the Switch contacts to ground at the Engine. The Temperature Switch
provides the ground connection at the Engine. The Relay Coil is energized, the contacts close, and
the Fan Motor starts.
The Auxiliary Cooling Fan will also operate when the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch
operates in response to an increasing compressor high side pressure. when the high side pressure
increases to a set point, the Pressure Switch contacts close. This provides a ground path for the
Auxiliary Cooling Fan Relay Coil through the LT GRN (37) wire to Diode D100. Through Diode
D100, through the LT ORN (1614) wire, trough the Pressure Switch contacts and through the BLK
(150) wire to Ground G105. The Relay Coil is energized, contacts close, and the Fan Motor starts.
Operation of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch can also affect the position of the Air
Conditioning Recirculation Door. During normal operation of the Recirculation Door, the A/C
Controller places the door in the Recirculation position by grounding the Recirculation Door Motor.
The ground path is through the DK GRN (1614) wire from door Pin A to A/C controller connector
C3, Pin 4. When the ground path is removed, the Recirculation Door moves from the Recirculation
Position.
When the Auxiliary Cooling Fan A/C Pressure Switch operates to start the Auxiliary Cooling Fan, it
also provides another ground path for the Recirculation Door Motor. If the Door Motor is not already
grounded, it is now grounded from Pin 6 through the DK GRN (1614) wire, through Splice S212,
through Diode D101, through Splice S114, and through the Pressure Switch to Ground G105. The
Door Motor operates to place the Recirculation Door in the Recirculation Position.
Diode D100 prevents the Recirculation Door Motor from being grounded by the Auxiliary Cooling
Fan Temperature Switch. Diode D101 prevents operation of the Auxiliary Cooling Fan when the
A/C Controller grounds the Recirculation Door Motor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2954
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor: Service and Repair
Fig. 33 Auxiliary Cooling Fan Replacement
Refer to Fig. 33 for auxiliary cooling fan replacement.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Radiator Cooling
Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Blade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radiator Fan/Fan Blade Clutch - Revised Replacement
Fan Blade: Technical Service Bulletins Radiator Fan/Fan Blade Clutch - Revised Replacement
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 66-62-O8
Date: June, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6B - Cooling and Radiator - Revised Radiator Fan and Blade Clutch Replacement
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs W, M, R RPOs L35, L30, L31)
This bulletin revises the radiator fan and fan blade clutch replacement procedure. The revised
procedure includes the torque to apply to the fan and clutch bolts when using the J tool to install
the fan and clutch assembly onto the water pump stud.
Tools Required:
J 41240 Fan Clutch Wrench
Remove or Disconnect (Figure 1)
Caution:
To help avoid personal injury or damage to the vehicle, a bent, cracked or damaged fan blade or
housing should always be replaced.
1. Upper fan shroud. Refer to "Fan Shroud Replacement" in this section.
2. Drive belt. Refer to "Drive Belt Replacement" in this section.
3. Fan and clutch using J 41240.
4. Fan blade from clutch.
Caution:
Do not use or repair a damaged fan assembly. An unbalanced fan assembly could fly apart and
cause personal injury and/or property damage. Replace damaged assemblies with new
assemblies.
Install or Connect (Figure 1)
1. Fan blade to clutch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Blade >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Radiator Fan/Fan Blade Clutch - Revised Replacement > Page
2962
Tighten
Tighten bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft)
2. Fan and clutch using J 41240.
Tighten
Tighten fan clutch nut to 56 N.m (41 lb ft)
3. Drive belt.
4. Upper fan shroud.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Blade >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information
Fan Blade: Technician Safety Information
WARNING: Do not operate engine until fan has first been inspected for cracks and/or separations.
If a fan blade is found to be bent or damaged in any way, do not attempt to repair or reuse
damaged part. Proper balance is essential in fan assembly operation. Balance cannot be assured
once a fan assembly has been found to be bent or damaged and failure may occur during
operation, creating an extremely dangerous condition. Always replace damaged fan assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Blade >
Component Information > Service Precautions > Technician Safety Information > Page 2965
Fan Blade: Vehicle Damage Warnings
WARNING: Do not operate engine until fan has first been inspected for cracks and/or separations.
If a fan blade is found to be bent or damaged in any way, do not attempt to repair or reuse
damaged part. Proper balance is essential in fan assembly operation. Balance cannot be assured
once a fan assembly has been found to be bent or damaged and failure may occur during
operation, creating an extremely dangerous condition. Always replace damaged fan assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis
Fan Clutch: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis
File In Section: 07 Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 99-07-30-016B
Date: October, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Diagnostic Information For Intermittent Transmission Downshift, Slip, Busy/cycling TCC or
Noisy Cooling Fan
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 2002-2003 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade EXT 1988-2003
Chevrolet Astro, Blazer, S-10, Silverado, Suburban 1989-2003 Chevrolet/Geo Tracker 1995-2003
Chevrolet Tahoe 1996-2003 Chevrolet Express 1988-1994 GMC S-15 1988-1999 GMC Suburban
1988-2003 GMC Safari, Sierra 1995-2003 GMC Sonoma, Yukon, Yukon XL 1996-2003 GMC
Savana 1999-2001 GMC Envoy 1991-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 2003 HUMMER H2 with Air
Conditioning
This bulletin is being revised to change the Model information and text. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 99-07-30-016A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle)
Some customers may comment that at times the transmission seems to slip, or that there is a loud
roar from the engine with slow acceleration. This condition is most noticeable after the vehicle has
sat idle for 12 or more hours, or on hot days when the A/C is on and the vehicle moves slowly with
traffic.
Typical comments from customers may include the following conditions:
^ Intermittent slipping
^ Intermittent downshift followed by an upshift, both with no apparent reason
^ Busyness or cycling of the TCC (torque converter clutch) at steady throttle conditions and on a
level roadway
^ Noisy cooling fan
The type of concern described above requires further definition. The customer should be asked the
following questions:
^ Is the situation more pronounced with higher vehicle loads such as when pulling a trailer?
^ Do warmer ambient temperatures make the situation more pronounced?
^ When the condition occurred, did you have the A/C on, and were you driving in stop and go city
traffic?
^ Does the condition exhibit itself on the first start-up after sitting more than eight hours?
If the customer indicates that these conditions apply, and your observation confirms that the vehicle
is operating properly, provide the customer with the vehicle operating description included at the
end of this bulletin. Further action may not be necessary. A service procedure follows if further
definition is required.
Diagnostic Aids
Cooling fan operation or the resulting sound varies. The cooling fan clutch may be described as a
continuously variable clutch. If the vehicle engine is running, the fan blade is always turning unless
the fan clutch is non-functional. The speed of the fan in relation to engine speed is temperature
dependent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis > Page 2970
Maximum fan speed (air flow and related fan noise) through the engine compartment is
experienced under two conditions.
1. When the vehicle sits in an unused condition for several hours, the viscous fluid within the
thermostatic fan clutch assembly migrates and fully engages the clutch of the fan. After a short
drive, the viscous fluid will migrate to the storage area in the fan clutch and the fan clutch will slip,
reducing the noise (roar of the fan). This is normal thermostatic fan clutch operation.
2. When the engine is running, and the air being drawn by the fan or pushed through the radiator
from the vehicle movement reaches a high enough temperature, the fan clutch will fully engage the
fan clutch, drawing additional air through the radiator to lower the engine coolant temperature and
A/C refrigerant temperature. When the cooling fan clutch fully engages, fan noise increases (for
example; this is the same as switching an electric household fan from low to high speed). Some
customers have interpreted this sound increase to be an increase in the engine RPM due to
transmission downshift, transmission slipping, or TCC cycling. As the engine coolant temperature
decreases, the fan clutch will begin to slip, lowering the actual speed of the fan blade and the
resultant sound.
Service Procedure
When diagnosing an intermittent transmission downshift, slip, or busy/cycling TCC, follow these
steps:
1. Verify the transmission fluid level and the fluid condition. Refer to the Automatic Transmission
sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual.
2. Test drive the vehicle under the conditions described by the customer (ambient temperature,
engine coolant temperature, trailering, etc.). It may be necessary to partially restrict airflow to the
radiator in order to raise the engine coolant temperature to match the customer's conditions.
3. Monitor the engine RPM and the engine coolant temperature using a scan tool.
4. Listen for an actual increase in the engine RPM. Use either the vehicle tachometer (if equipped),
the Tech 2 RPM or transmission slip speed as an indicator, rather than just the sound.
If the engine RPM display on the tachometer or the Tech 2 increases, verify the scan tool RPM and
coolant temperature readings. If the noise increase is due to the engagement of the fan, the engine
RPM will not increase and the engine coolant temperature will begin to decrease after the fan
engages. As the fan runs, the engine coolant temperature will drop and the fan will disengage,
reducing noise levels. The engine RPM will not decrease. This cycle will repeat as the engine
coolant temperature rises again.
If the above procedure shows the condition to be cooling fan-related, no further action is
necessary. The vehicle should be returned to the customer and the condition explained.
If the above procedure shows the condition to be other than cooling fan-related, refer to the
Automatic Transmission sub-section of the appropriate Service Manual for transmission diagnosis
information.
The following information regarding the operation of the engine cooling fan should be photocopied
and given to the customer.
Intermittent Transmission Downshift
All light duty trucks are equipped with a thermostatic engine cooling fan. This fan is designed to
provide greater fuel efficiency and quieter operation than a standard fan. These benefits are
possible through the addition of a thermostatic clutch to the fan drive. When the engine is cool (it
the engine has been run in the last few hours), the clutch allows the fan to "slip" or turn at a speed
slower than the engine. By turning at a slower speed, the fan uses less horsepower, which saves
fuel, and is quieter. When the engine temperature reaches a preset temperature or if the engine
has not been run for several hours, the fan "engages" and turns at the same speed as the engine.
"Engagement" of the fan provides increased airflow through the radiator to cool the engine. As the
airflow increases, fan operation becomes clearly audible.
This increase in noise can easily be mistaken for an increase in engine RPM and may be
incorrectly blamed on the automatic transmission. When operating an unloaded vehicle in cooler
ambient temperatures, the thermostatic clutch usually won't fully engage. However, if the vehicle is
pulling a trailer, is heavily loaded or is operated at high ambient temperatures, the thermostatic fan
clutch may cycle on and off as the engine coolant temperature rises and falls.
The sound of fan operation under the conditions described above is a sign that the cooling system
on your vehicle is working correctly. Replacement or modification of the cooling system or the
transmission parts will not change or reduce the noise level. Attempts to reduce this noise may
cause you, the customer, to believe that your vehicle is not reliable and will inconvenience you by
causing your vehicle to be out of service.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis > Page 2971
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis > Page 2972
Fan Clutch: Technical Service Bulletins Radiator Fan/Fan Blade Clutch - Revised Replacement
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 66-62-O8
Date: June, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6B - Cooling and Radiator - Revised Radiator Fan and Blade Clutch Replacement
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs W, M, R RPOs L35, L30, L31)
This bulletin revises the radiator fan and fan blade clutch replacement procedure. The revised
procedure includes the torque to apply to the fan and clutch bolts when using the J tool to install
the fan and clutch assembly onto the water pump stud.
Tools Required:
J 41240 Fan Clutch Wrench
Remove or Disconnect (Figure 1)
Caution:
To help avoid personal injury or damage to the vehicle, a bent, cracked or damaged fan blade or
housing should always be replaced.
1. Upper fan shroud. Refer to "Fan Shroud Replacement" in this section.
2. Drive belt. Refer to "Drive Belt Replacement" in this section.
3. Fan and clutch using J 41240.
4. Fan blade from clutch.
Caution:
Do not use or repair a damaged fan assembly. An unbalanced fan assembly could fly apart and
cause personal injury and/or property damage. Replace damaged assemblies with new
assemblies.
Install or Connect (Figure 1)
1. Fan blade to clutch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Intermittent Downshift/Slip/Cycling Diagnosis > Page 2973
Tighten
Tighten bolts to 23 N.m (17 lb ft)
2. Fan and clutch using J 41240.
Tighten
Tighten fan clutch nut to 56 N.m (41 lb ft)
3. Drive belt.
4. Upper fan shroud.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 2974
Fan Clutch: Description and Operation
Fan Drive Clutch Assembly
Variable Speed Fan W/Bi-Metallic Coiled Thermostatic Spring
The fan drive clutch, Fig. 1, is a fluid coupling containing silicone oil. Fan speed is regulated by the
torque-carrying capacity of the silicone oil. The more silicone oil in the coupling, the greater the fan
speed, and the less silicone oil, the slower the fan speed. The type of fan drive clutch in use is a
coiled bimetallic thermostatic spring, Fig. 2. The fan drive clutch uses a heat-sensitive, coiled
bimetallic spring connected to an opening plate which regulates the flow of silicone oil into the
coupling from a reserve chamber. The silicone oil is returned to the reserve chamber through a
bleed hole when the valve is closed. This unit causes the fan speed to increase with a rise in
temperature and to decrease as temperature decreases.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Clutch Fluid Leak
Fan Clutch: Testing and Inspection Clutch Fluid Leak
Small fluid leaks do not generally affect the operation of the unit. These leaks generally occur
around the area of the bearing assembly, but if the leaks appear to be excessive, engine
overheating may occur. Clutch and fan free-wheeling can cause overheating. To check for clutch
and fan free-wheeling, turn the motor "OFF." Spin the fan and clutch assembly by hand. If the fan
spins five or more times before it stops, replace the clutch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Clutch Fluid Leak > Page 2977
Fan Clutch: Testing and Inspection Engine Overheating
1. Start with cool engine to ensure complete fan clutch disengagement. 2. If fan and clutch
assembly free wheels with no drag (revolves more than five times when spun by hand), replace
clutch. If clutch performs properly
with slight drag, proceed to following step.
3. Position thermometer so it is located between fan blades and radiator, noting the following:
a. Insert thermometer sensor through one of existing holes in fan shroud or place between radiator
and shroud. It may be necessary to drill a 3/16
inch hole in fan shroud to insert thermometer.
b. Check for adequate clearance between fan blades and thermometer sensor before starting
engine, as damage could occur.
4. With thermometer in position, cover radiator grill sufficiently to induce high engine temperature.
5. Start engine, then turn on air conditioning and operate at 2000 RPM. 6. Observe thermometer
reading when clutch disengages, noting the following:
a. It will take approximately five to ten minutes for temperature to become high enough to allow
engagement of fan clutch. This will be indicated
by a 5-15 degrees F drop in thermometer reading.
b. If clutch did not engage between 150-195 degrees F, unit should be replaced. Ensure fan clutch
was disengaged at beginning of test. c. If no sharp increase in fan noise or temperature drop was
observed and fan noise level was constantly high from start of test to 190 degrees F,
unit should be replaced. Do not continue this test past thermometer reading of 190 degrees F to
prevent engine overheating.
7. As soon as clutch engages, remove radiator grill cover and turn A/C off to assist in engine
cooling. Run engine at approximately 1500 RPM. 8. After several minutes, fan clutch should
disengage as indicated by reduction in fan speed and roar. If fan clutch fails to function as
described,
replace it.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Clutch Fluid Leak > Page 2978
Fan Clutch: Testing and Inspection Fan Clutch Noise
Fan clutch noise can sometimes be noticed when clutch is engaged for maximum cooling. Clutch
noise is also noticeable within the first few minutes after starting engine while clutch is redistributing
the silicone fluid back to its normal, disengaged operating condition after settling for long periods of
time (overnight). However, continuous fan noise or an excessive roar indicates the clutch assembly
is locked-up due to internal failure. This condition can be checked by attempting to manually rotate
fan. If fan cannot be rotated manually or there is a rough, abrasive feel as fan is rotated, the clutch
should be replaced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Clutch Fluid Leak > Page 2979
Fan Clutch: Testing and Inspection Fan Looseness
Lateral movement can be observed at the fan blade tip under various temperature conditions
because of the type bearing used. This movement should not exceed 1/4 inch (6.5 mm) as
measured at the fan tip. If this lateral movement does not exceed specifications, there is no cause
for replacement.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cooling Fan > Fan Clutch >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 2980
Fan Clutch: Service and Repair
To prevent silicone fluid from draining into fan drive bearing, do not store or place drive unit on
bench with rear of shaft pointing downward. The coil spring type fan clutch cannot be
disassembled, serviced or repaired. If it does not function properly, it must be replaced with a new
unit. To replace the fan clutch, use the following procedure:
1. Remove the radiator fan shroud.
2. Unfasten the unit from the water pump, then remove the assembly from vehicle.
3. Separate fan from fan clutch.
4. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following: a.
Ensure mating surfaces of water pump hub and fan clutch hub are smooth and free of any burrs.
b. Align yellow reference marks on water pump hub and fan clutch hub.
c. Torque nuts to 18 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page
2985
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3019
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3020
ECT Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3021
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3022
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3023
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Engine - Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Engine Side, LH
LH cylinder head, near number one spark plug.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Component
Information > Locations
Heater Control Valve: Locations
Engine Compartment, RH rear side of Inner Fender
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Control Valve > Component
Information > Locations > Page 3030
Heater Control Valve: Service and Repair
Heater Water Valve
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Hose clamps at heater water valve.
- Loosen the clamps enough to slide the clamps away from the fittings on the valve.
3. Hoses from valve. 4. Vacuum line from valve. 5. Valve.
Install or Connect
1. Vacuum line to valve. 2. Hoses to valve. 3. Clamps to hoses.
- Slide clamps to previous location beyond retaining bead on water valve fitting.
4. Engine coolant.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Heater Core: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 3035
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 3036
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3037
Heater Core: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
In any air conditioning mode, the heater core heats the cool, dehumidified air to achieve the
desired temperature. The position of the control assembly temperature rotary knob determines how
much heat is added to the incoming air.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning
Heater Core: Service and Repair With Air Conditioning
HEATER CORE
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Instrument panel storage compartment. 3. Electrical connectors, as
necessary. 4. Center floor air distribution duct. 5. Hinge pillar trim panels. 6. Blower motor cover. 7.
Blower motor. 8. Steering column. 9. Roll instrument panel back.
10. Coolant recovery reservoir. 11. Heater hoses.
12. Screw on interior side of cowl, near the evaporator pipe (if equipped) while holding heater case
to the cowl.
13. Four screws on the engine side of the cowl holding the heater case to the cowl.
14. Two nuts on the engine side of the cowl holding the heater case to the cowl. 15. Heater case.
- It may be necessary to have an assistant when removing heater case.
16. Heater cover.
- Remove seven screws that hold cover to the heater case.
17. Heater core from retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning > Page 3040
Install or Connect
1. Heater core into retainer.
- Install seven screws that hold heater cover to heater case.
2. Heater cover.
- Make sure heater cover is properly sealed.
3. Heater case.
- May be necessary to have an assistant when installing heater case.
4. Nuts. 5. Screws.
Tighten
- Screws on engine side of the cowl to 1.9 Nm (17 lb in).
- uts to 2.8 Nm (25 lb in).
- Screw on interior side of the cowl to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
6. Heater hoses. 7. Coolant recovery reservoir. 8. Roll instrument panel forward. 9. Steering
column.
10. Blower motor. 11. Blower motor cover. 12. Hinge pillar trim panels. 13. Center floor air
distribution duct. 14. Electrical connectors, as necessary. 15. Instrument panel storage
compartment. 16. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning > Page 3041
Heater Core: Service and Repair Without Air Conditioning
HEATER CORE
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Instrument panel storage compartment. 3. Electrical connectors, as
necessary. 4. Center floor air distribution duct. 5. Hinge pillar trim panels. 6. Blower motor cover. 7.
Blower motor. 8. Steering column. 9. Roll instrument panel back.
10. Coolant recovery reservoir. 11. Heater hoses.
12. Screw on interior side of cowl, near the evaporator pipe (if equipped) while holding heater case
to the cowl.
13. Four screws on the engine side of the cowl holding the heater case to the cowl.
14. Two nuts on the engine side of the cowl holding the heater case to the cowl. 15. Heater case.
- It may be necessary to have an assistant when removing heater case.
16. Heater cover.
- Remove seven screws that hold cover to the heater case.
17. Heater core from retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Core > Component Information >
Service and Repair > With Air Conditioning > Page 3042
Install or Connect
1. Heater core into retainer.
- Install seven screws that hold heater cover to heater case.
2. Heater cover.
- Make sure heater cover is properly sealed.
3. Heater case.
- May be necessary to have an assistant when installing heater case.
4. Nuts. 5. Screws.
Tighten Screws on engine side of the cowl to 1.9 Nm (17 lb in).
- Nuts to 2.8 Nm (25 lb in).
- Screw on interior side of the cowl to 11 Nm (97 lb in).
6. Heater hoses. 7. Coolant recovery reservoir. 8. Roll instrument panel forward. 9. Steering
column.
10. Blower motor. 11. Blower motor cover. 12. Hinge pillar trim panels. 13. Center floor air
distribution duct. 14. Electrical connectors, as necessary. 15. Instrument panel storage
compartment. 16. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Inlet Hose
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Inlet Hose
Heater Hose Routing
Quick Connect Heater Inlet Connector
Tool Required:
J 38723 Heater Line Quick Connect Separator
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Inlet hose from generator bracket. 3. Inlet hose at fender clip. 4. Inlet hose
clamp at heater core. water shut off valve or tee fining.
- Loosen the clamp enough to slide the clamp away from the fining on the inlet hose.
5. Inlet hose from heater core. 6. Push inlet hose into connector and insert J 38723 or equivalent
into connector to release locking tabs. 7. Pull retainer and hose from heater inlet connector.
Inspect
- O-ring sealing surface on hose/pipe.
Adjust
- If replacing heater inlet connector, remove retainer from hose and discard, as new connector is
equipped with retainer.
- If replacing hose, remove retainer from hose and reinsert in connector.
- If reusing hose and connector, retainer can remain in place on hose.
Install or Connect
1. Push hose into connector until retainer tabs lock.
- Pull back on hose to check for proper engagement.
2. Inlet hose to heater core, water shut off valve or tee fitting.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Inlet Hose > Page 3047
3. Inlet hose clamp. 4. Inlet hose mounting screw. Tighten Screw to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 5. Inlet hose
to fender clip. 6. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Heater Hose > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Heater Inlet Hose > Page 3048
Heater Hose: Service and Repair Heater Outlet Hose
Heater Hose Routing
Quick Connect Heater Inlet Connector
Remove or Disconnect
1. Engine coolant. 2. Outlet hose from fender clip. 3. Outlet hose clamp from heater core, water
shut off valve or tee fitting. 4. Outlet hose from heater core. 5. Outlet hose mounting screw. 6.
Outlet hose from generator bracket. 7. Outlet hose clamp from water pump. 8. Outlet hose from
water pump.
Install or Connect
1. Outlet hose to water pump. 2. Outlet hose clamp to water pump. 3. Outlet hose to generator
bracket. 4. Generator bracket mounting screw. Tighten screw to 30 Nm (22 lb ft). 5. Outlet hose to
heater core. 6. Outlet hose clamp to heater core. 7. Outlet hose to fender clip. 8. Engine coolant.
- Check the system for leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams
Low Coolant Level Indicator Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 3053
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Description and Operation
This system uses a sensor mounted on the radiator and an indicator light mounted in the
instrument panel to warn the driver if coolant level is too low. This light is wired in series with the
ignition switch, ECM and the sensor. When the ignition switch is turned to the crank position, the
circuit is energized and the indicator light will illuminate. When the ignition switch is turned to the
ON position and coolant level is sufficient, the sensor will indicate this to the ECM and the light will
turn off.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated
1. Turn ignition switch to the On position, then check coolant level and add coolant as necessary. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 2.
2. Disconnect electrical connector at the sensor. If lamp does not illuminate replace the sensor. If
lamp remains illuminated, proceed to step 3.
3. Connect electrical lead to the sensor and check for an open circuit between the sensor and the
module. Repair or replace as necessary. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Indicator Lamp Remains Illuminated >
Page 3056
Coolant Level Indicator Lamp: Testing and Inspection Indicator Lamp Will Not Illuminate
1. Turn ignition switch to the crank position, and proceed as follows: a.
If lamp illuminates, lamp is satisfactory and connector is properly installed. Proceed to step 2.
b. If lamp does not illuminate, check bulb, socket and wiring between socket and module
connector. Replace or repair as necessary.
2. Turn ignition switch to the On position and disconnect electrical lead at coolant level sensor
mounted on the radiator. If lamp fails to illuminate, check wiring between coolant level sensor
connector and ECM for a short circuit to ground. If circuit is satisfactory, replace the ECM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 676201 > Apr > 96 >
Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
Temperature Gauge: Customer Interest Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 676201 >
Apr > 96 > Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
Temperature Gauge: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature
Gauge: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature
Gauge: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 3075
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature
Gauge: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 3081
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine
Is Hot
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is
Hot
This condition is generally caused by a blown fuse, open circuit or faulty sensor.
1. Check fuse, replace if necessary. 2. Turn ignition switch to On position, then remove lead at
sensor unit. 3. Connect test lamp from sensor lead to ground, lamp should glow. Short sensor lead
to ground, gauge should indicate "Hot." 4. If gauge indicated HOT, check lead on sensor. If
satisfactory, replace sensor. If gauge indicates COLD, replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine
Is Hot > Page 3084
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Indicates Hot When Engine Is Cold
This condition is generally caused by a shorted or grounded circuit.
1. Remove sensor lead at sensor unit. Gauge should move to COLD position, if not check unit for a
external short. If no external short is found,
replace sensor.
2. If gauge stays HOT, check for a short circuit in gauge to sensor wiring. If circuit is satisfactory,
replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine
Is Hot > Page 3085
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads High
1. Remove lead at sensor, measure resistance using an ohmmeter. 2. At 104 degrees F resistance
should be approximately 1200-1350 ohms, and at 125 degrees F resistance should be
approximately 53-55 ohms. 3. If resistance is not within specifications, replace sensor. 4.
Disconnect lead at sensor and gauge, check for a high resistance using an ohmmeter. Repair
wiring if necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Gauge > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine
Is Hot > Page 3086
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads Low
1. Ensure terminals are clean and connections are tight. 2. Remove lead at sensor, measure
resistance using an ohmmeter. 3. At 104 degrees F resistance should be approximately 1200-1350
ohms, and at 125 degrees F resistance should be approximately 53-55 ohms. 4. If resistance is not
within specifications, replace sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator, Engine Cooling > Component Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
A bi-metal temperature switch located in the cylinder head controls the operation of a temperature
indicator light. If the engine cooling system is not functioning properly and/or coolant temperature
exceeds a predetermined value, the warning light will illuminate.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Lamps and Indicators - Cooling System >
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator, Engine Cooling > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3090
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection
If the light is not lit when the engine is being cranked, check for a burned out bulb, an open in the
light circuit, or a defective ignition switch.
If the light is lit when the engine is running, check the wiring between light and switch for a ground,
defective temperature switch, or overheated cooling system.
As a test circuit to check whether the bulb is functioning properly, connect a wire from the ground
terminal of the ignition switch to the temperature indicator light circuit. When the ignition is in the
START (engine cranking) position, the ground terminal is grounded inside the switch and the bulb
will be lit. When the engine is started and the ignition switch is in the ON position, the test circuit is
opened and the bulb is then controlled by the temperature switch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
Radiator: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-02-001A
Date: July 16, 2008
Subject: Information On Aluminum Heater Core and/or Radiator Replacement
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks (including Saturn) 2003-2005
HUMMER H2
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 05-06-02-001 (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
Important:
2004-05 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX-COOL(R). Refer to the
flushing procedure explained later in this bulletin.
The following information should be utilized when servicing aluminum heater core and/or radiators
on repeat visits. A replacement may be necessary because erosion, corrosion, or insufficient
inhibitor levels may cause damage to the heater core, radiator or water pump. A coolant check
should be performed whenever a heater core, radiator, or water pump is replaced. The following
procedures/ inspections should be done to verify proper coolant effectiveness.
Caution:
To avoid being burned, do not remove the radiator cap or surge tank cap while the engine is hot.
The cooling system will release scalding fluid and steam under pressure if the radiator cap or surge
tank cap is removed while the engine and radiator are still hot.
Important:
If the vehicle's coolant is low, drained out, or the customer has repeatedly added coolant or water
to the system, then the system should be completely flushed using the procedure explained later in
this bulletin.
Technician Diagnosis
^ Verify coolant concentration. A 50% coolant/water solution ensures proper freeze and corrosion
protection. Inhibitor levels cannot be easily measured in the field, but can be indirectly done by the
measurement of coolant concentration. This must be done by using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale), or equivalent, coolant tester. The Refractometer
uses a minimal amount of coolant that can be taken from the coolant recovery reservoir, radiator or
the engine block. Inexpensive gravity float testers (floating balls) will not completely analyze the
coolant concentration fully and should not be used. The concentration levels should be between
50% and 65% coolant concentrate. This mixture will have a freeze point protection of -34 degrees
Fahrenheit (-37 degrees Celsius). If the concentration is below 50%, the cooling system must be
flushed.
^ Inspect the coolant flow restrictor if the vehicle is equipped with one. Refer to Service Information
(SI) and/or the appropriate Service Manual for component location and condition for operation.
^ Verify that no electrolysis is present in the cooling system. This electrolysis test can be performed
before or after the system has been repaired. Use a digital voltmeter set to 12 volts. Attach one test
lead to the negative battery post and insert the other test lead into the radiator coolant, making sure
the lead does not touch the filler neck or core. Any voltage reading over 0.3 volts indicates that
stray current is finding its way into the coolant. Electrolysis is often an intermittent condition that
occurs when a device or accessory that is mounted to the radiator is energized. This type of current
could be caused from a poorly grounded cooling fan or some other accessory and can be verified
by watching the volt meter and turning on and off various accessories or engage the starter motor.
Before using one of the following flush procedures, the coolant recovery reservoir must be
removed, drained, cleaned and reinstalled before refilling the system.
Notice:
^ Using coolant other than DEX‐COOL(R) may cause premature engine, heater core or
radiator corrosion. In addition, the engine coolant may require changing sooner, at 30,000 miles
(50,000 km) or 24 months, whichever occurs first. Any repairs would not be covered by your
warranty. Always use DEX‐COOL(R) (silicate free) coolant in your vehicle.
^ If you use an improper coolant mixture, your engine could overheat and be badly damaged. The
repair cost would not be covered by your warranty. Too much water in the mixture can freeze and
crack the engine, radiator, heater core and other parts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 3095
Flushing Procedures using DEX-COOL(R)
Important:
The following procedure recommends refilling the system with DEX-COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in
Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. This coolant is orange in color and has a
service interval of 5 years or 240,000 km (150,000 mi). However, when used on vehicles built prior
to the introduction of DEX-COOL(R), maintenance intervals will remain the same as specified in the
Owner's Manual.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling system flush and fill machine is not available, drain the coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in the appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system
using clear, drinkable water and run the vehicle until the thermostat opens. Repeat and run the
vehicle three (3) times to totally remove the old coolant or until the drained coolant is almost clear.
Once the system is completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with
DEX‐COOL(R), P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% DEX-COOL(R),
P/N 12346290 (in Canada, use P/N 10953464), GM specification 6277M. Then slowly add clear,
drinkable water (preferably distilled) to the system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached
the base of the radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and reverify the coolant level. If necessary, add
clean water to restore the coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, reverify the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. The concentration
levels should be between 50% and 65%.
Flushing Procedures using Conventional Silicated (Green Colored) Coolant
Important:
2004-2005 Chevrolet Aveo (Pontiac Wave, Canada Only) does not use DEX‐COOL(R).
The Aveo and Wave are filled with conventional, silicated engine coolant that is blue in color.
Silicated coolants are typically green in color and are required to be drained, flushed and refilled
every 30,000 miles (48,000 km). The Aveo and Wave are to be serviced with conventional, silicated
coolant. Use P/N 12378560 (1 gal) (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 (1 L). Refer to the Owner's
Manual or Service Information (SI) for further information on OEM coolant.
Important:
Do not mix the OEM orange colored DEX-COOL(R) coolant with green colored coolant when
adding coolant to the system or when servicing the vehicle's cooling system. Mixing the orange and
green colored coolants will produce a brown coolant which may be a customer dissatisfier and will
not extend the service interval to that of DEX-COOL(R). Conventional silicated coolants offered by
GM Service and Parts Operations are green in color.
^ If available, use the approved cooling system flush and fill machine (available through the GM
Dealer Equipment Program) following the manufacturer's operating instructions.
^ If approved cooling systems flush and fill machine is not available, drain coolant and dispose of
properly following the draining procedures in appropriate Service Manual. Refill the system using
clear, drinkable water and run vehicle until thermostat opens. Repeat and run vehicle three (3)
times to totally remove old coolant or until drained coolant is almost clear. Once the system is
completely flushed, refill the cooling system to a 50%-60% concentration with a good quality
ethylene glycol base engine coolant, P/N 12378560, 1 gal (in Canada, use P/N 88862159 1 L),
conforming to GM specification 1825M, or recycled coolant conforming to GM specification 1825M,
following the refill procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.
If a Service Manual is not available, fill half the capacity of the system with 100% good quality
ethylene glycol base (green colored) engine coolant, P/N 12378560 1 gal., (in Canada, use P/N
88862159 1 L) conforming to GM specification 1825M. Then slowly add clear, drinkable water
(preferably distilled) to system until the level of the coolant mixture has reached the base of the
radiator neck. Wait two (2) minutes and recheck coolant level. If necessary, add clean water to
restore coolant to the appropriate level.
Once the system is refilled, recheck the coolant concentration using a Refractometer J 23688
(Fahrenheit scale) or J 26568 (centigrade scale) coolant tester, or equivalent. Concentration levels
should be between 50% and 65%.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 3096
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Cooling System, A/C - Aluminum Heater Cores/Radiators > Page 3097
Radiator: Technical Service Bulletins Cooling - Radiator Repair/Replacement Guidelines
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-02-017
Date: October, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Radiator Repair/Replacement Guidelines
Models: 2000 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
If repair of an aluminum/plastic radiator is required, it is recommended that the following guidelines
be followed:
For Vehicles Under Warranty
For aluminum/plastic radiators that have damage to the face of the core including bent fins,
punctures, cuts, leaking tubes or header tubes, the aluminum radiator core section should be
replaced with a new one. In these cases, if both of the plastic tanks are not damaged, they can be
reused with the new core. If one or both of the plastic tanks are damaged along with the core, it is
recommended that a complete new radiator assembly be installed.
Warranty repairs for leaks at the tank to header (gasket leaks), broken/cracked plastic tanks, cross
threaded or leaking oil coolers should be repaired without replacing the complete radiator. This
type of repair should be handled by the radiator repair facility in your area.
Many of these radiator repair facilities are members of the National Automotive Radiator Service
Association (NARSA) who follow industry and General Motors guidelines when repairing radiators.
These facilities have the special tools, tanks and pressurizing equipment needed to properly test
the repaired radiator prior to returning it to the dealership. Many of these facilities receive the repair
components directly from General Motors.
The sublet expense for a new radiator or the repair of the radiator under warranty should be
handled following normal procedures.
For Vehicles No Longer Under Warranty
The GM released epoxy repair kit referenced in previous publications is no longer available.
Repairs to the radiator, rather than replacement, is strictly at the owner's discretion.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3098
Radiator: Service and Repair
1. Drain coolant from radiator. 2. Remove upper fan shroud bolts and upper fan shroud. 3. Remove
upper insulators and brackets. 4. Remove upper and lower radiator hoses. 5. Disconnect
transmission fluid cooler lines. 6. Disconnect engine oil cooler lines. 7. Remove lower fan shroud
retaining bolts and lower fan shroud. 8. Disconnect overflow hose. 9. Remove radiator from lower
insulators and brackets.
10. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Torque fan shroud attaching bolts to 6 ft. lbs. b. Torque engine oil cooler line fittings to 18 ft. lbs.
c. Torque transmission fluid cooler lines to 19 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Radiator Cap > Component Information >
Specifications
Radiator Cap: Specifications
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure, Lbs. .....................................................................................................
............................................................................... 15 Thermo. Opening Temp., deg.F .....................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 195
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Relays and Modules - Cooling System >
Radiator Cooling Fan Motor Relay > Component Information > Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan > Component Information > Locations
A/C Pressure Sensor/Switch - Cooling Fan: Locations
Front of Engine Compartment, on Condenser Manifold Tubing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 3114
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3117
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3118
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3119
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3120
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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ECT Sensor Circuit
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control
Systems/Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3151
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Powertrain Management/Computers and Control Systems/Testing
and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 3152
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Sensors and Switches - Cooling System
> Engine - Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch > Temperature Sensor (Gauge) > Component Information > Locations
Temperature Sensor (Gauge): Locations
Engine Side, LH
LH cylinder head, near number one spark plug.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 676201 > Apr > 96 > Engine - Extreme Temperature
Gauge Fluctuation
Temperature Gauge: Customer Interest Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 676201 > Apr > 96 > Engine - Extreme
Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
Temperature Gauge: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature Gauge: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04
> Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Wheel Fastener: All Technical Service Bulletins Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing
Bulletin No.: 01-03-10-009A
Date: July 27, 2004
TECHNICAL
Subject: Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Missing and/or Loose (Replace Missing Covers and Add
Sealant to All Covers)
Models: 2005 and All Prior Passenger Cars (Except All Cadillac Models and Pontiac GTO)
with Plastic Wheel Nut Covers
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add additional models years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-03-10-009.
Condition
Some customers may comment that the plastic wheel nut covers are missing and/or loose.
Correction
Important:
^ DO NOT USE a silicone-based adhesive.
^ Do not apply the *permatex(R) around the threads in a circular pattern.
^ Apply a single bead across the threads approximately 10 mm (0.4 in) in length, 5 mm (0.2 in) in
height and 5 mm (0.2 in) in width.
Replace any missing plastic wheel nut covers with the appropriate covers and apply Permatex(R) #
2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) to the threads of all the plastic wheel nut covers. Tighten finger tight
plus a 1/4 turn with a hand wrench.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such material.
General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or assume any responsibility for the
products from this firm or for any other such items which may be available from other sources.
Permatex(R) # 2 Form A Gasket Sealant(R) part numbers (available at your local parts supplier)
^ P/N 80009 (2A/2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80015 (2AR) - 44 ml (1.5 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80010 (2B/2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube boxed
^ P/N 80016 (2BR) - 89 ml (3 oz) tube carded
^ P/N 80011 (2C) - 325 ml (11 oz) tube boxed
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature Gauge: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04
> Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 3174
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Temperature Gauge: > 01-03-10-009A > Jul > 04
> Wheels - Plastic Wheel Nut Covers Loose/Missing > Page 3180
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is Hot
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is
Hot
This condition is generally caused by a blown fuse, open circuit or faulty sensor.
1. Check fuse, replace if necessary. 2. Turn ignition switch to On position, then remove lead at
sensor unit. 3. Connect test lamp from sensor lead to ground, lamp should glow. Short sensor lead
to ground, gauge should indicate "Hot." 4. If gauge indicated HOT, check lead on sensor. If
satisfactory, replace sensor. If gauge indicates COLD, replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is Hot > Page 3183
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Indicates Hot When Engine Is Cold
This condition is generally caused by a shorted or grounded circuit.
1. Remove sensor lead at sensor unit. Gauge should move to COLD position, if not check unit for a
external short. If no external short is found,
replace sensor.
2. If gauge stays HOT, check for a short circuit in gauge to sensor wiring. If circuit is satisfactory,
replace cluster.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is Hot > Page 3184
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads High
1. Remove lead at sensor, measure resistance using an ohmmeter. 2. At 104 degrees F resistance
should be approximately 1200-1350 ohms, and at 125 degrees F resistance should be
approximately 53-55 ohms. 3. If resistance is not within specifications, replace sensor. 4.
Disconnect lead at sensor and gauge, check for a high resistance using an ohmmeter. Repair
wiring if necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Gauge > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Gauge Does Not Move From Cold When Engine Is Hot > Page 3185
Temperature Gauge: Testing and Inspection Gauge Reads Low
1. Ensure terminals are clean and connections are tight. 2. Remove lead at sensor, measure
resistance using an ohmmeter. 3. At 104 degrees F resistance should be approximately 1200-1350
ohms, and at 125 degrees F resistance should be approximately 53-55 ohms. 4. If resistance is not
within specifications, replace sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator,
Engine Cooling > Component Information > Description and Operation
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator: Description and Operation
A bi-metal temperature switch located in the cylinder head controls the operation of a temperature
indicator light. If the engine cooling system is not functioning properly and/or coolant temperature
exceeds a predetermined value, the warning light will illuminate.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator,
Engine Cooling > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 3189
Temperature Warning Lamp/Indicator: Testing and Inspection
If the light is not lit when the engine is being cranked, check for a burned out bulb, an open in the
light circuit, or a defective ignition switch.
If the light is lit when the engine is running, check the wiring between light and switch for a ground,
defective temperature switch, or overheated cooling system.
As a test circuit to check whether the bulb is functioning properly, connect a wire from the ground
terminal of the ignition switch to the temperature indicator light circuit. When the ignition is in the
START (engine cranking) position, the ground terminal is grounded inside the switch and the bulb
will be lit. When the engine is started and the ignition switch is in the ON position, the test circuit is
opened and the bulb is then controlled by the temperature switch.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Thermostat: > 676201 > Apr > 96 > Engine Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
Thermostat: Customer Interest Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Thermostat: > 676201 > Apr > 96
> Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
Thermostat: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Extreme Temperature Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 67-62-01
Date: April, 1996
Subject: Extreme Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuation (Install a New Thermostat)
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs M, R, X, W RPOs L30, L31, LF6, L35)
Condition
Some owners may experience extreme engine temperature gauge fluctuation.
Cause
Thermostat was not optimally positioned to sense true engine coolant temperature.
Correction
Install a new thermostat which increases coolant flow past the thermostat temperature sensing
element.
Parts Information
Refer to the following part number when replacing the thermostat:
Part Number Description
12557859 Thermostat
Parts are expected to be available on April 8, 1996 from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J3500 Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3203
Thermostat: Specifications
Radiator Cap Relief Pressure, Lbs. .....................................................................................................
............................................................................... 15 Thermo. Opening Temp., deg.F .....................
..............................................................................................................................................................
.... 195
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Thermostat, Engine Cooling >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 3204
Thermostat: Service and Repair
1. Drain cooling system until radiator coolant level is below thermostat. 2. Remove thermostat
housing bolts and/or studs, then the thermostat housing and thermostat. 3. Thoroughly clean
gasket surfaces of thermostat housing and intake manifold. 4. Reverse procedure to install, noting
the following:
a. Torque thermostat housing bolts and/or studs to 21 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Cooling System > Water Pump > Component Information >
Service and Repair
Water Pump: Service and Repair
Water pump replacement. 305/350
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Drain coolant from radiator. 3. Remove upper fan shroud. 4.
Remove drive belt. 5. Remove fan assembly from engine. 6. Lower radiator and heater hose from
the water pump. 7. Remove water pump attaching bolts and water pump, Fig. 15. 8. Reverse
procedure to install. Tighten water pump attaching bolts to specifications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Utility 2 Door
Catalytic Converter Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Utility 2 Door > Page 3213
Catalytic Converter Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Engine, Cooling and Exhaust > Exhaust System > Exhaust Manifold > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Exhaust Manifold: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle. 2. Disconnect exhaust pipe
from manifold. 3. Lower vehicle. 4. Disconnect oxygen sensor electrical connector from left side
manifold. Do not remove oxygen sensor from the manifold unless it is to be replaced.
Remove dipstick tube bracket from right side manifold.
5. Remove power steering pump bracket from left side manifold. 6. Remove heat stove pipe from
right side manifold. 7. Disconnect AIR hose from check valve. 8. Remove manifold attaching bolts,
washers, heat shield and tab washers. 9. Remove exhaust manifold.
10. Reverse procedure to install, using a new gasket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage >
Page 3233
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No
DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3246
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3247
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3248
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3249
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3250
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3251
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter >
Page 3252
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3258
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3259
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3260
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3266
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3267
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 3268
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3269
Engine Control Module: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Page 3270
Vehicle Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3273
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3274
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3275
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3276
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3277
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 3278
Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Engine Control Module: Connector Views
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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Connector Terminal ID
ECM/PCM/VCM Pinout Voltage
The OE manufacture does not provide an ECM/PCM/VCM connector voltage pinout chart for this
vehicle, only a function description.
Connector End View
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Connector Terminal ID
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Connector Terminal ID
Connector End View
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Connector Terminal ID
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Connector Terminal ID
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
Control Module Service Precautions
The control module is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operations. Avoid overloading any circuit. When testing for opens or shorts, do not ground any of
the control module circuits unless instructed. When testing for opens or shorts, do not apply voltage
to any of the control module circuits unless instructed. Only test these circuits with a digital
voltmeter J 39200, while the control module connectors remain connected to the control module.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The VCM is located on the right hand side fenderwell. The VCM is the control center for the fuel,
emissions, ignition, and automatic transmission control functions.
The VCM constantly monitors the information from the various sensors. The VCM controls the
component systems which affect the engine operation.
The VCM alerts the driver through the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or the antilock indicator
lamp. The VCM stores the DTCs which identify the problem areas for the technician making
repairs. Refer to Vehicle Control Module, for further information on using the diagnostic function of
the VCM for engine operation.
^ Refer to Transmission for the diagnosis of the automatic transmission.
^ Refer to Anti-lock brakes for diagnosis of the brake system.
The VCM in this vehicle is programmable. The only services allowed on the VCM is the control
module replacement with the Knock Sensor (KS) calibrator Programmable Read Only Memory
(PROM) transferred or the KS calibrator PROM only.
The KS calibrator contains the up integrated knock sensor calibration. The VCM stores the 4
calibrations in the Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When replacing the VCM, programming the EEPROM and transferring the KS calibrator PROM to
the new VCM is mandatory. Refer to the EEPROM Programming. Refer to VCM
Replacement/Programming. See: Service and Repair
The 4 calibrations required for the VCM are the Powertrain, the ABS, the VSS buffer, and the A/C.
Each calibration has its own part number. Determine the correct calibrations for a particular vehicle
based on the VIN number of the vehicle.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is on the instrument panel. The MIL has the following
functions:
^ The MIL informs the driver that a fault that affects the vehicle's emission levels has occurred. The
owner should take the vehicle for service as soon as possible.
^ As a bulb and system check, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on with the key on and
the engine not running. When the engine is started, the MIL turns off if no DTCs are set.
When the MIL remains on while the engine is running, or when a malfunction is suspected due to a
driveability or emissions problem, perform an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check. The
procedures for these checks are given in engine controls. These checks expose faults which the
technician may not detect if other diagnostics are performed first.
DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION
The diagnostic Tables and functional checks are designed to locate a faulty circuit or component
through a process of logical decisions. The Tables are prepared with the assumption that the
vehicle functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that there are not multiple faults present.
There is a continuous self-diagnosis on certain control functions. This diagnostic capability is
complemented by the diagnostic procedures contained in this manual. The language of
communicating the source of the malfunction is a system of diagnostic trouble codes. When a
malfunction is detected by the control module, a diagnostic trouble code will set and the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Malfunction Indicator Lamp will illuminate on some applications.
VCM LEARNING ABILITY
WARNING: Since the VCM is located under the hood, its connectors are sealed and cannot be
backprobed as in the previous model years. Do not attempt to backprobe as a connector or seal
damage could occur.
The VCM's learning ability allows it to make corrections for minor variations in the fuel system in
order to improve driveability. When the battery is disconnected for other repairs, the learning
process resets. The driver my note a change in the vehicle's performance. In order to teach the
vehicle ensure that the engine is at the operating temperature. Drive the vehicle at part throttle with
a moderate acceleration and idle conditions until normal performance returns.
INPUT INFORMATION
The VCM processes the various input information. Then the VCM sends the necessary electrical
responses to the control fuel delivery, the spark timing, and the other emission control systems.
The input information interrelates to more than one output; therefore, if the one input fails, the
failure can affect more than one system's operation.
PROM (KS Module)
This assembly contains an electronic Knock Sensor (KS) module.
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MEMORY
There are two types of memory storage within the VCM, EEPROM and RAM.
EEPROM
Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory that is
physically soldered to the circuit boards within the VCM. The EEPROM contains the overall control
algorithms. The EEPROM can be reprogrammed by using the scan tool.
RAM
Random Access Memory (RAM) is the microprocessor scratch pad. The processor can write into or
read from this memory as needed. This memory is volatile and needs a constant supply of voltage
to be retained. If the voltage is lost, the memory is lost.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection >
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The approved procedure for diagnosing all powertrain control system faults is included in the
Strategy Based Diagnostics. The preliminary checks and the Powertrain On-board Diagnostic
System Check must be performed to successfully diagnose and repair the powertrain systems. To
read and clear diagnostic trouble codes, use a scan tool. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Use a scan tool to clear diagnostic trouble codes from the VCM memory. Diagnostic trouble codes
can also be cleared by turning OFF the ignition and disconnecting the battery power from the VCM
for 30 seconds, but this method will also cause all diagnostic information in the VCM memory to be
cleared and all the diagnostic tests will have to be re-run.
Since the VCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, following the approved
diagnostic procedures will determine which circuit has a problem and where it is. If a diagnostic
table indicates that the VCM connections or VCM is the cause of a problem and the VCM is
replaced. but does not correct the problem, one of the following conditions may exist:
^ There is a problem with the VCM terminal connections. The diagnostic table will indicate that the
VCM connections or VCM is the problem. The terminals may have to be removed from the VCM
connector in order to check them properly.
^ The EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to Symptoms and make a careful visual and physical inspection
of all suspected components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned ON and OFF
by the VCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called output driver modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the VCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Control Module Replacement
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Control Module Replacement
VCM Harness Connections
VCM Access Cover
Removing Knock Sensor Module From PCM
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Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair >
Control Module Replacement > Page 3319
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING
Service of the VCM consists of either replacement of VCM or reprogramming of the EEPROM. If
the diagnostics call for replacement of the VCM, it will be necessary to transfer the PROM and
program the EEPROM.
NOTE: When replacing the production VCM with a service VCM (controller), it is important to
transfer the broadcast code and production VCM number to the service VCM label. This will allow
positive identification of VCM parts throughout the service life of the vehicle. Also transfer the
PROM.
CAUTION: To prevent internal VCM damage, the ignition must be OFF when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the VCM (for example, battery cable, VCM fuse, jumper cables, etc.).
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING (WITH KNOCK SENSOR (KS) CALIBRATION PROM)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the connectors from the VCM. 3. Remove the
spring retainer off and over the rail of the VCM. Slide the VCM out of the bracket at an angle. 4.
Remove the VCM access cover. 5. Remove the PROM/Knock Sensor (KS) module. 6. Inspect for
the alignment notches of the KS Calibration PROM. 7. Carefully set it aside. 8. Do not open the KS
Calibration PROM. 9. Remove the new VCM from the packaging. Check the service number in
order to make sure it is the same as the defective VCM.
10. Remove the access cover.
NOTE
^ The Knock Sensor (KS) module must be transferred to the replacement VCM.
^ The replacement VCM is supplied without a EEPROM program, the replacement VCM must be
programmed before the vehicle will run.
^ Using the thumb and first finger, remove the KS Calibration PROM by gently squeezing each end
of the blue KS Calibration PROM
^ Do not remove the cover of the KS Calibration PROM. Use of an unapproved KS Calibration
PROM removal methods may cause damage to the KS Calibration PROM or the socket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Press only on the ends of the KS Calibration PROM. Gently press on the KS Calibration
PROM until it is firmly seated in the socket. Listen for the click.
1. Align the notches of the KS Calibration PROM with the notches in the KS Calibration PROM
socket. 2. Install the KS Calibration PROM in the KS Calibration PROM socket. 3. Install the
access cover on the VCM. 4. Install the VCM in the engine compartment. 5. Install the connectors
to the VCM. 6. The MIL, antilock and brake lamps will continue to be enabled until the VCM is
programmed. Once the programming is complete, the lamps will
turn off and normal operation will occur.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Control Module Replacement > Page 3320
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
8. Proceed to the EEPROM programming. See: EEPROM Programming
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Control Module Replacement > Page 3321
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair EEPROM Programming
CAUTION: The ignition should always be "off" when installing or removing the Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) connectors.
1. Set-up:
^ Battery is charged.
^ Ignition is "ON."
^ Battery/cig. lighter Connection secure.
^ Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Refer to up-to-date Techline terminal/equipment user's instructions.
3. If Vehicle Control Module (VCM) fails to program, do the following:
^ Check all VCM connections.
^ check Techline terminal/equipment for latest software version.
^ Try again to program the VCM. If it fails again, replace the VCM. Refer to VCM replacement. See:
Control Module Replacement
4. Perform the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve reset procedure with the scan tool. use misc. test. 5. For
a functional check perform one of the steps:
^ Use the Techline terminal and equipment in order to perform the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD)
System Check
^ Refer to Powertrain OBD System Check. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module > Component Information > Diagrams
Knock Sensor Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Emission Control Systems > Air Injection Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Locations
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Module
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Locations > Page 3333
Fuel Pump Balance Module
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Information > Locations > Page 3334
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Description and Operation
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times
Fuel Gage Indicates Empty At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 3337
Fuel Gage Indicates Full At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 3338
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 2 Of 2)
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 3339
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Runs Out of Fuel (Rear Tank Not
Empty)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 1 Of 2)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 2 Of 2)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 3340
Fuel Gage Does Not Change Position On Scale
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3341
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire and personal in jury that may result from a fuel leak, always
replace O-ring seals exposed during component service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen the filler cap(s) to Relieve fuel tank pressure.
See: Fuel Delivery and Air Induction/Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the electrical connector. 4.
Clean both fuel pipe connections and surrounding areas at the fuel pump before disconnecting to
avoid possible contamination of the fuel system. 5. Disconnect both fuel pipes from the pump. 6.
Slide the pump out of the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel pipe O-rings. 2. Position the new pump in the pump bracket. 3. Connect the
fuel feed pipe and suction pipe to the fuel pump.
Tighten Use a backup wrench to prevent the pump from turning. Tighten the fittings to 3O Nm (22 lb. ft.).
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
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Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 3342
6.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
6.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
6.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Relays and Modules - Powertrain Management > Relays and
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Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY
Auxiliary Battery Wiring
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in Underhood Fuse Relay Center. The Underhood Fuse Relay
Center is located on the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender.
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Page 3347
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay (Balance Pump)
FUEL PUMP RELAY (BALANCE PUMP)
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Relay
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
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and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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and Instructions > Page 3350
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 3351
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 3352
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 3353
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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and Instructions > Page 3354
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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and Instructions > Page 3355
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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and Instructions > Page 3356
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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and Instructions > Page 3371
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 3372
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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and Instructions > Page 3373
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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and Instructions > Page 3374
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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and Instructions > Page 3375
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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and Instructions > Page 3376
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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and Instructions > Page 3377
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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and Instructions > Page 3378
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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and Instructions > Page 3379
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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and Instructions > Page 3380
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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and Instructions > Page 3381
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Modules - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3382
Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
Fuel Pump Balance Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR VIEW
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and Instructions > Page 3383
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Refer to terminals, A1 - B1 B2 - A3 - B3.
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Pump Relay Operation
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Pump Relay Operation
OPERATION
When the key is turned ON with out the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay
ON for two seconds. This builds up fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two
seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump OFF and waits until the engine starts. As soon as
the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay ON and runs the fuel pump. When the
engine is cranking or running, the control module receives the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors. As a backup system to the fuel pump
relay, the fuel pump can also be turned ON by a fuel pump oil pressure switch. When the engine
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), and the fuel pump relay does not complete the circuit, the fuel pump
oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold.
The fuel pump oil pressure switch will turn ON the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about
28 kPa (4 psi).
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Pump Relay Operation > Page 3386
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Balance Module Control System (Dual Tanks)
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
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Page 3387
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the relay.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the relay. 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
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Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
Ignition Control Driver (ICD) Module And Ignition Coil
The Ignition Coil Driver Module is mounted on a bracket next to the coil. The Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) signals the Ignition Control Driver (ICD) to turn "ON" primary current to the ignition
coil by pulling the Ignition Control (IC) line high (4 volts). The IC turns the primary current "ON" and
"OFF" by applying and removing the ground to the primary winding at the appropriate time. This
module is of 'minimum function" and does not contain backup calibrations that would allow the
engine to continue to rim if the IC signal is lost.
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Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
If the vehicle cranks for at least 5 seconds and the Engine Control Module doesn't see a referance
signal, some Models will set a code, 42 (Hard) or 12 (Soft). If your vehicle has one of these codes,
begin with the Diagnostic System Check in Computers and Controls, then proceed to the Trouble
Code Chart (Yes, some vehicles have a DTC Chart for Code 12).
If the vehicle does not set a code, begin with the Diagnostic System Check, and it will send you to
a Diagnostic Chart that checks for your particular condition.
These types of tests are found under Computers and Control Systems. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3399
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3430
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Mass Air Flow System
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
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Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3443
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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Engine View, Rear
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Information and Instructions > Page 3473
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Information and Instructions > Page 3474
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3475
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3476
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3477
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information and Instructions > Page 3478
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3479
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information and Instructions > Page 3480
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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3481
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
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> Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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> Page 3484
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component
Information > Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
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Information > Specifications > Page 3488
Engine Side, LH
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3515
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3521
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3523
ECT Sensor Circuit
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Information > Diagrams > Page 3524
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Computers and Control Systems/Specifications
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3556
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3557
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
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Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3558
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3559
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3560
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3561
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised
DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 3562
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Bulletins > Page 3563
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
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Bulletins > Page 3564
Engine Side, RH
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Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3568
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
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1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Component Information > Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3627
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3628
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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IAT Sensor Circuit
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine.
OPERATION
Low temperature produces a high resistance 100,000 ohms at -40° (-40°F). A high temperature
causes low resistance 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F). The VCM supplies a 5.0 volt signal to the sensor
through a resistor in the VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the
incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the
incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is used to adjust spark timing according to
incoming air density.
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when engine is cold, and rise as underhood temperature increases. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
temperature and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. If the VCM detects a
malfunction in the AT sensor circuit, the following DTCs will set:
^ DTC P0112 circuit low.
^ DTC P0113 circuit high.
^ DTC P0111 circuit intermittent high.
^ DTC P0112 circuit intermittent low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
IAT Sensor And Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 2. Remove the Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor by grasping sensor, twist and pull out from air cleaner
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor. 2. Connect the electrical connector
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Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 3681
Knock Sensor Circuit
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
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Engine Side, RH
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum
Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3715
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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MAP System
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in the intake manifold
pressure. The pressure changes as a result of engine load and speed. The map sensor converts
this to a voltage output.
OPERATION
A closed throttle on engine coast down would produce a relatively low MAP output voltage. A wide
open throttle would produce a high MAP output voltage. This high output voltage is produced
because the pressure inside the manifold is the same as outside the manifold. The MAP is
inversely proportional to what is measured on a vacuum gage. The MAP sensor is used for the
following:
^ Altitude determination.
^ Ignition timing control.
^ Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) diagnostic.
^ Speed density fuel management default.
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAP sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0106 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0107 circuit low.
^ DTC P0108 circuit high.
^ DTC P1106 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1107 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor
NOTE: Other than checking for loose hoses and electrical connections, the only service possible is
unit replacement, if the diagnosis shows the sensor to be faulty.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the vacuum harness assembly. 3.
Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 4. Remove the bolts or release lock tabs
and remove the sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bolts or snap sensor on bracket. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Connect the
vacuum harness. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Page 3732
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) ..........................................................................................................
...................................................... 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
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Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations
Light Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Heavy Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
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There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations
Engine View, Rear
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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and Instructions > Page 3765
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 3766
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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and Instructions > Page 3767
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3768
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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and Instructions > Page 3769
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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and Instructions > Page 3770
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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and Instructions > Page 3771
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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and Instructions > Page 3772
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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and Instructions > Page 3773
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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and Instructions > Page 3774
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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and Instructions > Page 3775
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions > Page 3776
Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
C107: Engine HARN To Oxygen Sensor HARN
Oxygen Sensor RH, LH
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and Instructions > Page 3777
HO2S Circuit
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Cutaway
OPERATION
To control emissions of Hydrocarbons (HO), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen
(NOx), a three-way catalytic converter is used. The catalyst within the converter promotes a
chemical reaction which oxidizes the HO and CO present in the exhaust gas, converting them into
harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst also reduces NOx, converting it to nitrogen.
The VCM has the ability to monitor this process using the Bank 1 Sensor 2 and the Bank 2 Sensor
2 heated oxygen sensors. The Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates
the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gas entering the three way catalytic converter. The
Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates the oxygen storage capacity of
the catalyst; this in turn indicates the catalyst ability to convert exhaust gases efficiently. If the
catalyst is operating efficiently, the Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor will produce a far more active signal
than that produced by the Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor.
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The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the Bank 1
Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensors main function is catalyst monitoring, they also play a limited
role in fuel control. If a sensor output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias
voltage for an extended period of time, the VCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure
that fuel delivery is correct for catalyst monitoring.
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Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Heated
Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
The heated oxygen sensor circuit, if open, should set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0134 and
the Scan tool will display a constant voltage between 350-550 mV. A constant voltage below 250
mV in the sensor circuit should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 750 mV in the
circuit should set DTC P0132. DTC P0131 and DTC P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel
system problems. Refer to DTC P0131 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0132
HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0134 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1
Sensor 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing > Page 3782
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) Testing
A problem with the HO2S 2 electrical circuits should set Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0137,
P0138 or P0140, depending on the specific condition. If the catalyst is functioning correctly, the
HO2S 2 signal will be far less active than that produced by HO2S 1. If a problem exists which
causes the VCM to detect excessive HO2S 2 activity outside of an acceptable range for an
extended period of time, the VCM will set DTC P0420, indicating that the three-way catalytic
converter [prime ]s oxygen storage capacity is below a threshold considered acceptable. Refer to
DTC P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0140 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0420 TWC
System Low Efficiency Bank 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing
information. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Electrical Connector
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) and the Oxygen Sensor use a permanently
attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove this pigtail from the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Damage or the removal of the pigtail or the connector could affect the proper operation of the
sensor.
CAUTION: Take care when handling the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the
louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Also avoid using cleaning solvents of any
type. Do not drop or roughly handle the HO2S.
CAUTION: If the heated oxygen sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire
oxygen sensor assembly must be replaced. Do Not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or
terminals. In order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air
reference.
CAUTION: This clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater
wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the
air reference and degraded sensor performance. The following guidelines should be used when
servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
^ Do Not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
^ The sensor pigtail and harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside
are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause
performance problems,
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do Not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion. be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector. The engine harness
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3784
may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no
circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being
obstructed.
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine
temperature is below 48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust
manifold or the exhaust pipe.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the electrical connector by releasing the
locking tab. 3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The
compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the
glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors
already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if
for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the
equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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3788
Engine Side, LH
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3821
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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TP Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
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Page 3828
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
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Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 3836
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 3837
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3872
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
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Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
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Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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5-Speed Manual Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Locations > Page 3887
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Locations > Page 3888
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Information and Instructions > Page 3913
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Vehicle Speed Sensor (2WD)
DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a pulse counter type input that informs the VCM how fast the
vehicle is being driven. The VSS system uses an inductive sensor mounted in the tail housing of
the transmission and a toothed reluctor wheel on the tail shaft.
OPERATION
As the reluctor rotates, the teeth alternately interfere with the magnetic field of the sensor creating
an induced voltage pulse.
The VSS produces an AC voltage signal that increases with vehicle speed. The VCM processes
this signal and sends it to the following components:
^ Instrument Panel.
^ Cruise Control Module.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3961
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3962
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 3963
Mass Air Flow System
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Information > Diagrams > Page 3964
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Information > Diagrams > Page 3965
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations >
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
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Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations >
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 3970
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
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Page 3971
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
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Page 3972
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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3976
Engine Side, LH
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Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3980
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3981
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information and Instructions > Page 3982
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Information and Instructions > Page 3984
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information and Instructions > Page 3985
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4005
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information and Instructions > Page 4008
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4009
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information and Instructions > Page 4011
TP Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Throttle Position (TP) Sensor > Page 4015
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
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Page 4016
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4025
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4026
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4027
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Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4028
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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4030
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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Engine View, Rear
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4054
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Instructions > Page 4055
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Instructions > Page 4056
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Instructions > Page 4057
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Instructions > Page 4058
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Instructions > Page 4059
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4060
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Instructions > Page 4061
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Switches - Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4062
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Instructions > Page 4063
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Instructions > Page 4064
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Instructions > Page 4065
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4087
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4088
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4089
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4090
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4091
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4092
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4093
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4099
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4100
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4101
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4102
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4103
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4104
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4105
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
4106
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page
4107
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4110
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4111
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4112
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4113
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4114
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4115
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Switches - Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4116
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Instructions > Page 4117
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Instructions > Page 4118
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Instructions > Page 4133
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Instructions > Page 4134
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Instructions > Page 4136
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 4138
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 4140
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
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1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Hall Effect Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for
Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for
Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4157
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for
Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4158
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for
Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4159
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4165
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4166
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised
Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 4167
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Bulletins > Page 4168
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
The procedure has been updated by TSB# 73-01-09
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Page 4176
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Page 4179
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Page 4181
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Page 4182
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4200
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4201
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4202
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4203
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4204
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4205
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4206
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions >
Page 4207
Knock Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4208
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Sensors and Switches - Powertrain Management > Sensors and
Switches - Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4209
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Pressure >
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Specifications > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Specifications Controlled Idle Speed
Under 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Over 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Idle Speed >
System Information > Adjustments > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Adjustments Controlled Idle Speed
NOTE: There should be no Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s displayed. The idle air control system
has been checked.
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Block the drive wheels. 3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link
Connector (DLC) connector with the tool in the open mode. 4. Start the engine. 5. Bring the engine
to the normal operating temperature. 6. Check for the correct state of the Transmission Range (TR)
switch position on the scan tool. 7. Check the specifications for controlled idle speed and Idle Air
Control (IAC) valve pintle position (counts). Refer to Idle Air Control Valve /
Service and Repair. See: Computers and Control Systems/Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve/Service and
Repair
8. If within specifications, the idle speed is being correctly controlled by the control module. 9. If not
within specifications, refer to Driveability Symptoms. Refer to System Diagnosis for testing
information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Specifications
Air intake duct screw ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 2 Nm (18 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4225
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Service and Repair
Air Intake Duct Retainer Bolt
Air Intake Duct
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the retainer. 2. Remove the screw. 3. Remove the air intake duct
Installation Procedure
1. Install the air intake duct. 2. Install the screw.
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 Nm (18 lb. in.).
3. Install the retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter
Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 4234
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air
Filter Element: > 04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 4240
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4241
Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection
The air cleaner restriction indicator is located on the intake duct between the air cleaner assembly
and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
If the area inside of the clear section is green, no air filter service is required. If the area inside the
clear section is orange and Change Air Filter appears, replace the air filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Air Cleaner
Housing > Air Filter Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4242
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Cleaner Element Holddown
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the hold down clips. 2. Remove the air cleaner cover. 3. Remove the filter. Hold the
duct and remove the filter by pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. 4. Clean the air
cleaner housing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filter.
- Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stops of the duct.
- Install the duct and filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the
housing.
2. Install the air cleaner cover. 3. Connect the hold down clips. 4. Push the button on the top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (Clean) filter zone.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Fuel Filter > Fuel
Pressure Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Firing Order >
Component Information > Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Number One Cylinder > Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Crankshaft Rotation
Crankshaft Rotation (Typical Crankshaft Pulley)
Crankshaft rotation is clockwise when viewed from in front of the crankshaft pulley as shown in the
generic image.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Ignition Timing >
Timing Marks and Indicators > System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation > Page 4260
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Timing Marks
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Vehicle Control Module (VCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug Wire: Specifications
0-15 inch cable ....................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 3,000 - 10,000 ohms.
15-25 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 4,000 - 15,000 ohms.
25-35 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 6,000 - 20,000 ohms.
Longer wires should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4264
Spark Plug Wire: Locations
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
Wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when wires have been
disconnected or when replacement of the wires is necessary. Failure to route the wires properly
can lead to radio ignition noise and crossfiring of the plugs or shorting of the leads to ground
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4265
Spark Plug Wire: Service Precautions
Service Precautions
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
NOTE: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of being
fully seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the in
stalled boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core erosion
and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4266
Spark Plug Wire: Testing and Inspection
VISUAL INSPECTION
1. Inspect the routing of the wires. Improper routing can cause crossfiring. 2. Inspect each wire for
any signs of cracks or splits in the wire. 3. Inspect each boot for signs of tears, piercing, arc
through, or carbon tracking. If the boot needs to be replaced, twist it a half-turn in either direction
to break the seal before pulling on the boot to remove the wire.
SPARK PLUG WIRE RESISTANCE TEST
1. Disconnect both ends of each wire. Make sure the wire terminals are clean. 2. Set ohmmeter on
the high scale and connect it to each end of the wire being tested. Twist the wire gently while
watching ohmmeter. 3. If ohmmeter reads above 30,000 ohms (no matter how long the wire is), or
fluctuates from infinity any value, replace the wire. 4. If the resistance of any wire is not within the
following ranges, replace the wire being tested.
- 0 to 381 mm (0 to 15 in.) wire - 3,000 to 10,000 ohms.
- 381 mm to 635 mm (15 in. to 25 in.) wire - 4,000 to 15,000 ohms.
- 635 mm to 889 mm (25 in. to 35 in.) wire - 6,000 to 20,000 ohms.
- Longer wire - should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4267
Spark Plug Wire: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
SERVICE CAUTIONS
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug Wire
<--> [Ignition Cable] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4268
WARNING: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of
being seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the
installed boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core
erosion and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the
engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT
Spark plug wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when spark plug
wires have been disconnected or when replacement of the spark plug wires is necessary. Failure to
route the spark plug wires properly can lead to radio noise and crossfiring of the spark plugs, or
shorting of the leads to ground. The correct routing is shown in the images.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
CHEVROLET 71-65-40
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTION 6E - REVISED ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND
OPERATION
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTION 6E - ENGINE CONTROLS REVISED
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODELS: 1995-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, GMT600, P MODELS 1996-97
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L ENGINE (VINS W, M, R, J - RPOS L35,
L30, L31, L29)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO INFORM TECHNICIANS OF A REVISION TO THE
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION. THE DISTRIBUTOR IS
NOW REPAIRABLE. TECHNICIANS WILL BE REFERRED TO DISTRIBUTOR OVERHAUL IN
ENGINE ELECTRICAL FOR PROPER REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF ALL COMPONENTS.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 4273
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition - Distributor Service Kits Now Available
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-64-04
Date: April, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Distributor Service Kits
Models:
1995 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Utility Models with 4.3L OBDII Engines ONLY (VIN W - RPO L35)
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada 1997 Chevrolet and GMC
C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engines (VINs W, X, M,
R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29)
Service kits are now available to field service Distributor Assemblies.
Important:
Fastening screws have pre-applied thread locking adhesive and should be discarded after removal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 4274
1995 4.3L L35 OBDII Distributor Assemblies are now serviced with 1996 Distributor Assemblies
(P/N 1104050). Installation instructions are included with each replacement assembly and must be
followed.
The following Service Kits are now available:
Important:
Removed fasteners are not to be re-used. Always use the new fasteners supplied in each kit.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 4275
Warranty Information
For Vehicles repaired under warranty use the table shown.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4276
Distributor: Specifications
Distributor clamp and bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................. 27 N.m (20 lbs. ft.) Distributor cap screws ........................................
....................................................................................................................... 4.5-5.0 N.m (40-45 lbs.
in.)
Distributor rotor ....................................................................................................................................
................................................... 2 N.m (20 lbs. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4277
Distributor: Locations
Top of Engine, at rear, near Bulkhead
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4278
Distributor: Application and ID
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation
Distributor: Description and Operation Distributor Operation
DISTRIBUTORS
Distributor
This ignition system includes the distributor, hall effect switch, ignition coil, secondary wires, spark
plugs, knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The ignition system is controlled by the vehicle
control module (VCM). The VCM monitors information from various engine sensors, computes the
desired spark timing and controls the dwell and firing of the ignition coil via an ignition control line to
the coil driver.
The distributor connects the ignition coil and spark plugs through secondary wires. The rotor directs
the spark to the appropriate cylinder. The distributor has a hall effect switch that connects to the
VCM through the primary engine harness and provides cylinder identification information.
Identification
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Ignition Coil
The coil driver controls the current flow in the primary winding of the ignition coil when signaled by
the VCM. The interconnects are made by the primary engine harness. The ignition coil can
generate up to 35,000 volts and connects to the distributor through a secondary wire.
Secondary Wires
The secondary wires carry voltage between the ignition coil, distributor, and spark plugs. The
secondary wire connections form a tight seal that prevents voltage arching.
Hall Effect Switch
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
The crankshaft position sensor connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and
provides crank- shaft reference information to the VCM for spark and fuel delivery. The crankshaft
position sensor is located in the front cover behind the crankshaft balancer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Distributor Operation > Page 4281
Distributor: Description and Operation General Description
Distributor
The distributor is actually an assembly that contains the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, cap,
rotor and shaft. The distributor is splined by a helical gear to the camshaft and provides spark to
each spark plug wire. when servicing the distributor, it is critical to ensure proper cap sealing to the
distributor body and correct installation to the camshaft. If the distributor is installed a tooth off in
relation to the camshaft, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will set. The distributor is not repairable
and must be replaced as an assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 4282
Distributor: Testing and Inspection
NOTICE: Discoloration of the cap and some whitish build up around the cap terminals is normal.
Yellowing of the rotor cap, darkening and some carbon build-up under the rotor segment is normal.
Replacement of the cap and rotor is not necessary unless there is a driveablity concern.
Inspect 1. Cap for cracks, tiny holes or carbon tracks between cap terminal traces. Carbon tracks
can be diagnosed by using an ohmmeter. With the cap
removed, place one base ohmmeter lead on a cap terminal. Use the other lead to probe all other
terminals and the center carbon ball. Move the base lead to the next terminal and probe all other
leads. Continue until all secondary terminals have been tested. If there are any non-infinite
readings, replace the cap.
2. Cap for excessive build up of corrosion on the terminals. Scrape them clean or replace the cap.
Some build up is normal.
3. Rotor segment. Replace the rotor if there is excessive wear on the rotor segment or the plastic
under the segment or staked post is melted. Some
looseness of the rotor segment is normal and does not cause performance problems.
4. Shaft for shaft-to-bushing looseness. Insert the shaft in the housing. If the shaft wobbles, replace
the housing assembly.
5. Housing for cracks or damage.
^ Refer to Computers and Control Systems for ignition system diagnosis. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Distributor: Adjustments Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 4285
Distributor: Adjustments Timing Adjustment
NOTICE: The distributor is located in a fixed, non-adjustable position. No attempt should be made
to adjust the engine base timing by rotating the distributor. Attempting to do so may result in engine
cross-fire and mis-fire conditions.
The distributor ignition system has no provision for timing adjustment. The base timing is preset
when the engine is manufactured and no adjustment is possible.
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from its Initial position. if the intake manifold, cylinder head,
crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "procedure B"
must be followed to correctly install the distributor. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) code may
also indicate an Incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur.
Procedure B must then be used.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 4286
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure A
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure A
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Spark plug and coil leads from the distributor cap. 2. Three wire hail effect switch plug from the
base of the distributor. 3. Two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 4. Distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil to note the position of the rotor segment in relation to the distributor
housing. Identify the mark with a 1. B. The distributor housing and intake manifold should also be
marked with a grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
5. Mounting clamp hold down bolt. 6. Distributor.
^ As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction, 42°. This will appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting
the position of the rotor segment, by placing a second mark on the base of the distributor, will aid in
achieving proper rotor alignment during distributor installation. Be sure to identify the second mark
on the base with the number 2.
Install or Connect
Distributor Alignment Indicator
A. If the original distributor is to be replaced, rather than repaired, remove the new distributor cap.
Using a grease pencil, place two marks on the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 4287
new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.
B. When installing the distributor, align the rotor segment with the number 2 mark on the base of
the distributor. Guide the distributor into place,
making sure the grease pencil marks on the distributor housing and the intake manifold are in line.
As the the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction,
42°. ONCE THE DISTRIBUT0R IS COMPLETELY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the number 1 mark on the base. If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number 1 mark,
the gear teeth of the distributor and camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of time. To
correct this condition, remove the distributor and re-install it following the procedure at step B.
1. Distributor cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten the screws as the boss may strip. 2.
Distributor mounting clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch connector to base of the distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to
the distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly. You now must refer to procedure; B or proper distributor
installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 4288
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure B
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure B
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF." ^
Bring the engine up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of cylinder number 1. Make sure it is on the
compression stroke.
A. Remove the distributor cap screws and cap to expose the rotor.
Rotor Location
B. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment
line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.
The rotor segment should point to the cap hold area as shown in the illustration.
C. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the mating drive tab in
the distributor. D. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the the spark plug towers are
perpendicular to the center line of the engine.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 4289
Installed Rotor Position
E. ONCE The DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned with the
pointer cast into the distributor base. This
pointer will have a "8" cast into it, indicating the distributor is to be used in a 8 cylinder engine. if the
rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the
distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again
to achieve proper alignment.
Install or Connect
1. Cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten as the boss may strip. 2. Distributor mounting
clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch plug to base of distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to the
distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor Removal
1. Remove the ignition coil wire harness from the ignition coil and distributor cap.
2. Remove two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 3. Distributor cap. 4. Remove the
distributor clamp bolt. 5. Remove the distributor and the distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4292
6. Remove the distributor gasket and discard.
Distributor Installation
1. Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.
2. Install the distributor cap screws. 3. Install the distributor cap.
4. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4293
5. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing. 5. Ensure
that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
7. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil
pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary. 8. Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing
toward the front of the engine. 9. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4294
10. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer
that is cast into the distributor base. 11. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few
degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft
may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct
part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
12. Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4295
13. Install the distributor cap onto the distributor. 14. Install the NEW distributor cap screws. Do not
overtighten the NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten the distributor cap screws to 2.4 Nm (21 in.
lbs.).
15. Install the ignition coil wire harness.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4296
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Disassembly and Assembly
Distributor Components
NOTICE: The distributor driven gear can be installed in two positions. Make sure when installing
the gear that the dimple found below the roll pin hole in the gear is on the same side as the rotor
segment. The dimple will not align directly with the rotor segment if not, the gear is Installed 180°
off and a no start condition may occur. Premature wear and damage may result.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two screws holding the cap to the housing. 2. Cap from the housing. 3. Two screws from the
rotor.
Vane Wheel In Distributor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4297
4. Rotor.
^ Note which locating holes (B) the rotor was removed from.
5. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. 6. Hall effect switch.
^ The square cut hole (C) in the vane wheel must be aligned with the hall effect switch in order to
remove the switch.
7. Roil pin from the shaft.
A. Note the dimple located below the roil pin hole on the one side of the gear. The dimple will be
used to properly orient the gear on the shaft
during assembly.
8. Driven gear, washer, and tang washer. 9. Shaft.
^ If the shaft can't be removed from the distributor housing due to varnish buildup, use a cloth
dampened with varnish remover to clean the shaft.
NOTICE: Failure to keep cleaning agents away from the hall effect switch may result in premature
failure.
Install or Connect
1. Hall effect switch. 2. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. Do not overtighten as the base
may strip.
3. Shaft. 4. Tang washer, washer, and driven gear.
^ When the driven gear is properly installed the dimple located below the roll pin hole, in the driven
gear, will be on the same side as the rotor segment when the rotor is installed in the distributor. If
the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be on the opposite of the rotor segment.
5. Roll pin. 6. Rotor.
^ "A" shows the mounting holes. "B" shows the locating holes.
7. Two screws holding rotor.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2.0 Nm (20 lbs. In.)
Installation of the distributor into the engine will require the distributor cap off of the assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4298
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Alignment/Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4299
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from the original position. If the intake manifold, cylinder
head, crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "Procedure
B" must be followed in order to correctly install the distributor. A DTC code may also indicate an
incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur. Procedure B must then
be used.
1. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the spark plug and the ignition coil wires from
distributor cap. 3. Remove the three-wire hall effect switch connector from the base of the
distributor. 4. Remove the two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing.
5. Remove the distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing.
Identify the mark with the number 1. B. Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a
grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
6. Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt. 7. Remove the distributor.
8. As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees. This will
appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting the position of the rotor segment by placing
a second mark on the base of the distributor will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the
distributor installation. Identify the second mark on the distributor housing at number 2.
Installation Procedure A
1. Remove the new distributor cap.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4300
2. If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the
same location as the two marks on the original
housing.
3. When installing the distributor, align the rotor with mark made at location 2..
4. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the mounting hole in the distributor hold down base
is aligned over the mounting hole in the intake
manifold.
5. As the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction
about 42 degrees. 6. Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be
aligned with mark on the base in location number 1. If the rotor segment is
not aligned with the number 1 mark, the gear teeth of the distributor and the camshaft have
meshed one or more teeth out of time. In order to correct the condition, remove the distributor and
reinstall it.
7. Install the cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.
Tighten Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 Nm (45 lb in).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
8. Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4301
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
9. Install the three wire hall effect switch connector to the base of the distributor.
10. Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.
Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is
found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Refer to procedure B for proper distributor
installation.
Installation Procedure B
1. Rotate the number 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2.
Remove the distributor cap screws and the distributor cap to expose the rotor.
3. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white alignment line on the
lower portion of the shaft housing.
4. The rotor should point to the cap hold down mount nearest the flat side of the housing.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Distributor, Ignition
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 4302
5. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor. 6.
Guide the distributor in place, ensuring that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the
centerline of engine. 7. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the pointer cast into the distributor base. This pointer will have a 6 or
8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. If the rotor
segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor
and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order
to achieve proper alignment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark plug type ....................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-932 Spark plug gap ................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.060 inch Spark plugs (new cylinder head) ........................................................................................
........................................................................ 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) Spark plugs (used cylinder head) ...
............................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Spark Plug >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 4306
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Resistor-type. tapered-seat spark plugs are used. No gasket is used on these plugs. These spark
plugs are a High Efficiency (HE) spark plug that has a fine wire electrode, nickel plated shell and a
platinum pad across from the electrode. These features give the HE spark plug long life durability.
Refer to Specifications or to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label on the fan shroud for
correct gap information. See: Specifications
CONSTRUCTION
If the spark plug shell hex is not fully engaged in the spark plug socket wrench, the socket may
cock at an angle and cause insulator cracking and/or breakage during plug installation or removal.
OPERATION
Normal or average service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, low speed, and high speed
operation with some of each making up the daily total driving. Occasional or intermittent high-speed
driving is essential to good spark plug performance. It provides increased and sustained
combustion heat that burns away any excess deposits of carbon or oxide that may have
accumulated from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go or slow-speed driving. Spark plugs are
protected by an insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material that covers the spark plug
terminal and extends downward over a portion of the plug insulation These boots prevent
flash-over with resultant missing of the engine, even though a film is allowed to accumulate on the
exposed portion of plug porcelains.
Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator. Corona discharge is a steady
blue light appearing around the insulator. just above the shell crimp It is the visible evidence of a
high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be detected only in
darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the insulator just above
the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that combustion gases have
blown out between the shell and insulator.
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 4307
Spark Plug Diagnosis
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 4308
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
CAUTION
^ Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the plugs from a
hot engine may cause the plug to seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads.
^ Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head or contamination of the cylinder
head threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of a new plug.
^ Do not install plugs that are either hotter or colder than the heat range specified. Using plugs of
the wrong heat range can severely damage the engine.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
CAUTION: Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn to release it. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do
not pull on the wire or the spark plug lead may be damaged.
1. Spark plug wires and boots.
^ Label the plug wires.
CAUTION: Be sure to use J 39358 or equivalent spark plug socket Failure to do so could cause
cracking of the insulator and arcing inside the plug, resulting in engine misfire.
2. Spark plugs using J 39358 or equivalent.
Inspect ^
Each spark plug for wear and gap.
^ Spark plugs should be gapped to 0.060 inch.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
CAUTION: Make sure each sparkplug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated.
Cross-threading or falling to fully seat spark plugs can cause overheating of the plugs, exhaust
blow-by, or thread damage.
1. Spark plugs.
Tighten ^
Spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) in a new cylinder head and 20 Nm (14 lb. ft.) in a used head.
2. Wire and boot assemblies. Refer to Spark Plug Wiring and Boots for precautions. See: Spark
Plug Wire/Service Precautions
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Compression
Check > System Information > Specifications
Compression Check: Specifications
Minimum, 698 kPa (100 psi) @ 200 rpm. The lowest cylinder reading should not be less than 80%
of the highest. Perform compression test with engine at normal operating temperature, spark plugs
removed and throttle wide open.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Tune-up and Engine Performance Checks > Valve Clearance >
System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Clearance Specifications
One turn down from zero lash.
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System Information > Specifications > Valve Clearance Specifications > Page 4316
Valve Clearance: Specifications Valve Arrangement
FRONT TO REAR
5.7L/V8-350 .........................................................................................................................................
........................................................... E-I-I-E-E-I-I-E
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System Information > Specifications > Page 4317
Valve Clearance: Adjustments
1. Remove rocker arm cover. 2. Crank engine until the mark on the vibration damper aligns with the
"0 mark on the timing tab and the engine is in the number one firing position.
This may be determined by placing fingers on valves of number one cylinder as the mark on the
damper comes near the " 0 mark on the timing tab. If the rocker arms are not moving, the engine is
in the number one firing position. If the rocker arms move as the marks comes up to the timing tab,
the engine is in the number six firing position and should be turned over one more time to reach the
number one firing position.
3. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves 1, 3, 4 and 8 and intake valves 1, 2, 5 and 7 can
be adjusted. Even numbered cylinders are in the
right bank, odd numbered cylinders are in the left bank when viewed from the rear of the engine.
4. Back off the adjusting nut until lash is felt at the pushrod, then turn in the adjusting nut until all
lash is removed. This can be determined by
rotating the pushrod while turning the adjusting nut. When play has been removed, turn the
adjusting nut in one full additional turn.
5. Crank engine one complete revolution until the timing tab " 0 mark and vibration damper mark
are aligned. This is the number six firing position. 6. With the engine in this position, exhaust valves
2, 5, 6 and 7 and intake valves 3, 4, 6 and 8 can be adjusted. 7. With valves properly adjusted,
install rocker arm cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > A/C Signal > Component
Information > Description and Operation
A/C Signal: Description and Operation
The A/C request circuit signals the VCM when an A/C mode is selected at the A/C control head.
The VCM uses this information to enable the A/C compressor clutch and to adjust the idle speed
before turning ON the A/C clutch. If this signal is not available to the VCM, the A/C compressor will
be inoperative.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4326
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4327
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4328
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4329
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4330
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4331
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4332
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4333
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4334
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4352
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4353
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4358
Mass Air Flow System
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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> Page 4367
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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> Page 4370
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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> Page 4371
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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> Page 4372
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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> Page 4373
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4387
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4388
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4389
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4390
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4391
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4392
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4393
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4394
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4395
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4396
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4397
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4398
IAT Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4399
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine.
OPERATION
Low temperature produces a high resistance 100,000 ohms at -40° (-40°F). A high temperature
causes low resistance 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F). The VCM supplies a 5.0 volt signal to the sensor
through a resistor in the VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the
incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the
incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is used to adjust spark timing according to
incoming air density.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4400
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when engine is cold, and rise as underhood temperature increases. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
temperature and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. If the VCM detects a
malfunction in the AT sensor circuit, the following DTCs will set:
^ DTC P0112 circuit low.
^ DTC P0113 circuit high.
^ DTC P0111 circuit intermittent high.
^ DTC P0112 circuit intermittent low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT)
Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4401
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
IAT Sensor And Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 2. Remove the Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor by grasping sensor, twist and pull out from air cleaner
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor. 2. Connect the electrical connector
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4406
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Page 4407
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4408
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4409
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4410
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4411
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 4412
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4413
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4414
Engine View, Rear
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4417
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4418
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4419
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4420
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4421
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4422
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4448
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4449
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Testing and Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4452
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4456
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4460
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4461
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4463
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4464
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4465
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4489
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4490
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4491
ECT Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4492
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4493
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature
Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4494
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4512
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4513
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4514
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4515
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4516
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4517
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4518
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4524
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4525
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4526
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4527
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4528
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4529
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: >
61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 4530
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4531
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4532
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4535
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4536
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4537
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4538
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4554
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4555
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4556
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4557
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4559
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4561
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4562
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4563
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4564
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4565
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4566
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4567
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4568
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4569
1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Locations
Data Link Connector
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Data Link Connector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4575
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Data Link Connector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4596
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4606
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4607
Data Link Connector: Connector Views
Data Link Connector
Data Link Connector
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Data Link Connector (DLC) Pin Assignment
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation Circuit Operation
A Scan Tool can be connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC), this allows the Scan Tool to
communicate with the Diesel Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Gasoline Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) the Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module (DERM), the Transfer Case Control Module or the
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. System operations can then be monitored for diagnostic
purposes.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Data Link Connector >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Circuit Operation > Page 4611
Data Link Connector: Description and Operation Data Link Connector (DLC)
Data Link Connector
The provision for communicating with the control module is a Data Link Connector (DLC). The DLC
is usually located under the instrument panel. The DLC is used in order to connect to a scan tool.
Some common uses of the scan tool are listed below:
^ Identifying stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs).
^ Clearing the DTCs.
^ Performing output control tests.
^ Reading serial data.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on
TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4625
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No
DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4638
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4639
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4640
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4641
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4642
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4643
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513
> Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4644
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: >
04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4650
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 83-81-32 >
Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4659
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4660
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4661
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4662
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4663
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4664
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 736513 >
Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4665
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4666
Engine Control Module: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
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Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4667
Vehicle Control Module
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4671
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4672
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4674
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4701
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4702
Engine Control Module: Connector Views
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4703
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4704
Connector Terminal ID
ECM/PCM/VCM Pinout Voltage
The OE manufacture does not provide an ECM/PCM/VCM connector voltage pinout chart for this
vehicle, only a function description.
Connector End View
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4705
Connector Terminal ID
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4706
Connector Terminal ID
Connector End View
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4707
Connector Terminal ID
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4708
Connector Terminal ID
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4709
Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
Control Module Service Precautions
The control module is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operations. Avoid overloading any circuit. When testing for opens or shorts, do not ground any of
the control module circuits unless instructed. When testing for opens or shorts, do not apply voltage
to any of the control module circuits unless instructed. Only test these circuits with a digital
voltmeter J 39200, while the control module connectors remain connected to the control module.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4710
Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The VCM is located on the right hand side fenderwell. The VCM is the control center for the fuel,
emissions, ignition, and automatic transmission control functions.
The VCM constantly monitors the information from the various sensors. The VCM controls the
component systems which affect the engine operation.
The VCM alerts the driver through the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or the antilock indicator
lamp. The VCM stores the DTCs which identify the problem areas for the technician making
repairs. Refer to Vehicle Control Module, for further information on using the diagnostic function of
the VCM for engine operation.
^ Refer to Transmission for the diagnosis of the automatic transmission.
^ Refer to Anti-lock brakes for diagnosis of the brake system.
The VCM in this vehicle is programmable. The only services allowed on the VCM is the control
module replacement with the Knock Sensor (KS) calibrator Programmable Read Only Memory
(PROM) transferred or the KS calibrator PROM only.
The KS calibrator contains the up integrated knock sensor calibration. The VCM stores the 4
calibrations in the Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When replacing the VCM, programming the EEPROM and transferring the KS calibrator PROM to
the new VCM is mandatory. Refer to the EEPROM Programming. Refer to VCM
Replacement/Programming. See: Service and Repair
The 4 calibrations required for the VCM are the Powertrain, the ABS, the VSS buffer, and the A/C.
Each calibration has its own part number. Determine the correct calibrations for a particular vehicle
based on the VIN number of the vehicle.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is on the instrument panel. The MIL has the following
functions:
^ The MIL informs the driver that a fault that affects the vehicle's emission levels has occurred. The
owner should take the vehicle for service as soon as possible.
^ As a bulb and system check, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on with the key on and
the engine not running. When the engine is started, the MIL turns off if no DTCs are set.
When the MIL remains on while the engine is running, or when a malfunction is suspected due to a
driveability or emissions problem, perform an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check. The
procedures for these checks are given in engine controls. These checks expose faults which the
technician may not detect if other diagnostics are performed first.
DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION
The diagnostic Tables and functional checks are designed to locate a faulty circuit or component
through a process of logical decisions. The Tables are prepared with the assumption that the
vehicle functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that there are not multiple faults present.
There is a continuous self-diagnosis on certain control functions. This diagnostic capability is
complemented by the diagnostic procedures contained in this manual. The language of
communicating the source of the malfunction is a system of diagnostic trouble codes. When a
malfunction is detected by the control module, a diagnostic trouble code will set and the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Malfunction Indicator Lamp will illuminate on some applications.
VCM LEARNING ABILITY
WARNING: Since the VCM is located under the hood, its connectors are sealed and cannot be
backprobed as in the previous model years. Do not attempt to backprobe as a connector or seal
damage could occur.
The VCM's learning ability allows it to make corrections for minor variations in the fuel system in
order to improve driveability. When the battery is disconnected for other repairs, the learning
process resets. The driver my note a change in the vehicle's performance. In order to teach the
vehicle ensure that the engine is at the operating temperature. Drive the vehicle at part throttle with
a moderate acceleration and idle conditions until normal performance returns.
INPUT INFORMATION
The VCM processes the various input information. Then the VCM sends the necessary electrical
responses to the control fuel delivery, the spark timing, and the other emission control systems.
The input information interrelates to more than one output; therefore, if the one input fails, the
failure can affect more than one system's operation.
PROM (KS Module)
This assembly contains an electronic Knock Sensor (KS) module.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4711
MEMORY
There are two types of memory storage within the VCM, EEPROM and RAM.
EEPROM
Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory that is
physically soldered to the circuit boards within the VCM. The EEPROM contains the overall control
algorithms. The EEPROM can be reprogrammed by using the scan tool.
RAM
Random Access Memory (RAM) is the microprocessor scratch pad. The processor can write into or
read from this memory as needed. This memory is volatile and needs a constant supply of voltage
to be retained. If the voltage is lost, the memory is lost.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The approved procedure for diagnosing all powertrain control system faults is included in the
Strategy Based Diagnostics. The preliminary checks and the Powertrain On-board Diagnostic
System Check must be performed to successfully diagnose and repair the powertrain systems. To
read and clear diagnostic trouble codes, use a scan tool. See: Testing and Inspection
Use a scan tool to clear diagnostic trouble codes from the VCM memory. Diagnostic trouble codes
can also be cleared by turning OFF the ignition and disconnecting the battery power from the VCM
for 30 seconds, but this method will also cause all diagnostic information in the VCM memory to be
cleared and all the diagnostic tests will have to be re-run.
Since the VCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, following the approved
diagnostic procedures will determine which circuit has a problem and where it is. If a diagnostic
table indicates that the VCM connections or VCM is the cause of a problem and the VCM is
replaced. but does not correct the problem, one of the following conditions may exist:
^ There is a problem with the VCM terminal connections. The diagnostic table will indicate that the
VCM connections or VCM is the problem. The terminals may have to be removed from the VCM
connector in order to check them properly.
^ The EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to Symptoms and make a careful visual and physical inspection
of all suspected components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Testing and
Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned ON and OFF
by the VCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called output driver modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the VCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Control Module Replacement
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Control Module Replacement
VCM Harness Connections
VCM Access Cover
Removing Knock Sensor Module From PCM
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Control Module Replacement > Page 4716
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING
Service of the VCM consists of either replacement of VCM or reprogramming of the EEPROM. If
the diagnostics call for replacement of the VCM, it will be necessary to transfer the PROM and
program the EEPROM.
NOTE: When replacing the production VCM with a service VCM (controller), it is important to
transfer the broadcast code and production VCM number to the service VCM label. This will allow
positive identification of VCM parts throughout the service life of the vehicle. Also transfer the
PROM.
CAUTION: To prevent internal VCM damage, the ignition must be OFF when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the VCM (for example, battery cable, VCM fuse, jumper cables, etc.).
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING (WITH KNOCK SENSOR (KS) CALIBRATION PROM)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the connectors from the VCM. 3. Remove the
spring retainer off and over the rail of the VCM. Slide the VCM out of the bracket at an angle. 4.
Remove the VCM access cover. 5. Remove the PROM/Knock Sensor (KS) module. 6. Inspect for
the alignment notches of the KS Calibration PROM. 7. Carefully set it aside. 8. Do not open the KS
Calibration PROM. 9. Remove the new VCM from the packaging. Check the service number in
order to make sure it is the same as the defective VCM.
10. Remove the access cover.
NOTE
^ The Knock Sensor (KS) module must be transferred to the replacement VCM.
^ The replacement VCM is supplied without a EEPROM program, the replacement VCM must be
programmed before the vehicle will run.
^ Using the thumb and first finger, remove the KS Calibration PROM by gently squeezing each end
of the blue KS Calibration PROM
^ Do not remove the cover of the KS Calibration PROM. Use of an unapproved KS Calibration
PROM removal methods may cause damage to the KS Calibration PROM or the socket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Press only on the ends of the KS Calibration PROM. Gently press on the KS Calibration
PROM until it is firmly seated in the socket. Listen for the click.
1. Align the notches of the KS Calibration PROM with the notches in the KS Calibration PROM
socket. 2. Install the KS Calibration PROM in the KS Calibration PROM socket. 3. Install the
access cover on the VCM. 4. Install the VCM in the engine compartment. 5. Install the connectors
to the VCM. 6. The MIL, antilock and brake lamps will continue to be enabled until the VCM is
programmed. Once the programming is complete, the lamps will
turn off and normal operation will occur.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Control Module Replacement > Page 4717
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
8. Proceed to the EEPROM programming. See: EEPROM Programming
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Component Information > Service and Repair > Control Module Replacement > Page 4718
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair EEPROM Programming
CAUTION: The ignition should always be "off" when installing or removing the Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) connectors.
1. Set-up:
^ Battery is charged.
^ Ignition is "ON."
^ Battery/cig. lighter Connection secure.
^ Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Refer to up-to-date Techline terminal/equipment user's instructions.
3. If Vehicle Control Module (VCM) fails to program, do the following:
^ Check all VCM connections.
^ check Techline terminal/equipment for latest software version.
^ Try again to program the VCM. If it fails again, replace the VCM. Refer to VCM replacement. See:
Control Module Replacement
4. Perform the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve reset procedure with the scan tool. use misc. test. 5. For
a functional check perform one of the steps:
^ Use the Techline terminal and equipment in order to perform the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD)
System Check
^ Refer to Powertrain OBD System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Specifications
IAC valve attaching screws .................................................................................................................
..................................................... 3.0 Nm (26 lb. in.)
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 4722
Engine Side, LH
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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> Page 4725
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4726
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 4729
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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> Page 4731
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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> Page 4732
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Idle Control System
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4758
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly is to control the engine idle speed, while
preventing stalls due to changes in the engine load.
OPERATION
The IAC valve, mounted in the throttle body assembly, controls the bypass air around the throttle
valve. By moving a conical valve known as a pintle IN toward the seat (to decrease air flow), or
OUT away from the seat (to increase air flow), a controlled amount of air moves around the throttle
valve.
If engine speed is too low, more air is bypassed around the throttle valve in order to increase the
RPM. If the engine speed is too high, less air is bypassed around the throttle valve in order to
decrease the RPM.
The VCM moves the IAC valve in small steps, called counts which can be measured using a scan
tool connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC). During idle, the proper position of the IAC valve
is calculated by the VCM. This position is based on battery voltage, engine coolant temperature,
engine load, and engine RPM. If the RPM drops below specification and the throttle valve is closed,
the VCM senses a near stall condition, and then the VCM calculates a new valve position in order
to prevent stalling.
If the IAC valve is disconnected and reconnected while the engine is running, the resulting idle
RPM may be wrong. This will require the resetting of the IAC valve.
After running the engine, the IAC valve will reset when the ignition is turned OFF. When servicing
the IAC valve, it should only be disconnected or connected with the ignition OFF.
If the VCM is without battery power for any reason, the programmed position of the IAC valve pintle
is lost. The control module replaces the lost position with a default value. In order to return the IAC
valve pintle to the correct position, see the Idle Learn Procedure.
The IAC valve affects the idle characteristics of the vehicle. A fully retracted valve allows too much
air into the manifold causing a high idle speed. A valve which is stuck closed allows too little air in
the manifold, causing a low idle speed. If the valve is stuck part way open, the idle may be rough,
and the idle will not respond to engine load changes.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Testing and Inspection
If the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is disconnected or connected when the engine is running, the idle
RPM may be wrong. The IAC valve may be reset by turning the ignition switch ON for 10 seconds,
OFF for 5 seconds. The IAC valve affects the idle characteristics of the engine as well as throttle
follow-up to compensation for sudden throttle closing. If it is open fully too much air will be allowed
in the manifold and idle speed will be high. If it is stuck closed, too little air will be allowed in the
manifold, and idle speed will be too low. If it is stuck part way open, the idle may be rough, and will
not respond to engine load changes.
The diagnosis of Idle Air Control (IAC) can be found in VCM Outputs Diagnosis. See: Testing and
Inspection
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Procedure
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset Procedure
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF
position for 10 seconds. 3. Start the engine. 4. Check for the proper idle operation.
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Procedure > Page 4762
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacement
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
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Procedure > Page 4763
2. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws.
CAUTION: If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The
force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak
the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
3. Remove the IAC valve assembly. 4. Remove the O-ring.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Clean the IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, pintle valve seat, and air passage.
^ Use the carburetor cleaner and a parts cleaning brush in order to remove carbon deposits. Follow
instructions on the container.
^ Do not use a cleaner that contains methyl ethyl ketone, an extremely strong solvent and not
necessary for this type of deposit.
^ Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal. They do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle
shaft.
^ If air passage has heavy deposits, remove the throttle body for complete cleaning.
2. Inspect the IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace if damaged.
NOTE: If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The IAC valve pintle shape and
diameter are designed for the specific application.
3. Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28
mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract
the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE
NOTE: If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The AC valve pintle shape and
diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28
mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle
of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
2. Lubricate the IAC valve O-ring with clean engine oil. 2. Install the IAC valve assembly. 3. Install
the attaching screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the IAC valve attaching screws to 3.0 Nm (26 lb. in.).
4. Install the electrical connector. 5. Reset the IAC valve pintle position.
5.1.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds. 5.2.Turn the ignition switch to the
OFF position for 10 seconds. 5.3.Start the engine. 5.4.Check for the proper idle operation.
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Serial Data: Description and Operation Serial Data Communications
Class II Serial Data
U.S. Federal regulations require that all automobile manufacturers establish a common
communications system. General Motors utilizes the "Class II" communications system. Each bit of
information can have one of two lengths: long or short. This allows vehicle wiring to be reduced by
the transmission and reception of multiple signals over a single wire. The messages carried on
Class II data streams are also prioritized. In other words, if two messages attempt to establish
communications on the data line at the same time, only the message with higher priority will
continue. The device with the lower priority message must wait. The most significant result of this
regulation is that it provides scan tool manufacturers with the capability of accessing data from any
make or model vehicle sold in the United States.
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Serial Data: Description and Operation Circuit Operation
A Scan Tool can be connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC), this allows the Scan Tool to
communicate with the Diesel Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Gasoline Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) the Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module (DERM), the Transfer Case Control Module or the
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. System operations can then be monitored for diagnostic
purposes.
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Serial Data: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
1. CHECK condition of AUX PWR Fuse. If Fuse is open, LOCATE and REPAIR source of overload.
REPLACE Fuse. 2. CHECK Grounds G103, G104, and G200 are clean and light. 3. CHECK for 12
volts at terminal 16 (CKT 840) of the DATA LINK CONNECTOR. REPAIR if necessary. 4. CHECK
terminal 4, CKT 150 and terminal 5, CKT 451 for continuity to ground. REPAIR if necessary.
DATA LINE(S)
1. Check for proper connection of Scan Tool to Data Link Connector (DLC). 2. Check for loose or
missing terminals at DLC. 3. If VCM/PCM is not accessible with a Scan Tool, check for an open in
PPL (1807) wire between component and DLC terminal 2. 4. If Brake Pressure Modulator Valve is
not accessible with a Scan Tool, check for an open in TAN/WHT (799) wire between component
and DLC
terminal 12.
5. If Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module (DERM) not accessible with a Scan Tool, check for an
open in TAN (800) wire between component and
DLC terminal 9.
6. If Transfer Case Control Module is not accessible with a Scan Tool, check for an open in ORN
(1568) wire between component and DLC terminal
13.
7. Check for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment that may affect the integrity of
other systems. ^
CHECK for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
malfunction but prove "GOOD" in a Continuity/Voltage check with a system disconnected. These
Circuits may be intermittent or resistive when loaded, and if possible, should be checked by
monitoring for a Voltage drop with the system operational (under load).
^ CHECK for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity
of other system (Refer "Troubleshooting Procedures"). See: Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Serial Data <--> [Information
Bus] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4771
Serial Data: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (Part 1 Of 2)
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Serial Data <--> [Information
Bus] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4772
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Components On Class-2 Data Line (Part 1 Of 2)
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Components On Class-2 Data Line (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Serial Data <--> [Information
Bus] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4773
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Components On UART Data Line
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Components On UART Data Line (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Serial Data <--> [Information
Bus] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4774
Scan Tool Will Not Communicate With Transfer Case Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Serial Data <--> [Information
Bus] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 4775
Serial Data: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
A Scan Tool can be connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC), this allows the Scan Tool to
communicate with the Diesel Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Gasoline Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) the Diagnostic Energy Reserve Module (DERM), the Transfer Case Control Module or the
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve. System operations can then be monitored for diagnostic
purposes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 4779
Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4785
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4811
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4812
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4813
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4814
Knock Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 4815
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 4816
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor Module >
Component Information > Diagrams
Knock Sensor Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Customer Interest PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4828
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4829
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4830
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4831
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4832
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: > 766504 > Mar >
97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4833
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4839
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4840
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4841
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4842
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4843
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Malfunction Indicator Lamp: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 4844
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Malfunction Indicator Lamp >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4845
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: Service and Repair
The CHECK ENGINE LAMP will be illuminated when the ignition switch is placed in the "ON"
position. When the engine is started, the lamp should turn "OFF". If the lamp remains "ON" for 10
seconds or constantly after the engine is started, the self diagnosis system has detected a problem
and has stored a code in the system Control Module.
After diagnosis and repair, the ECM memory can be cleared of codes by removing the Control
Module fuse or disconnecting the battery ground cable for approximately 30 seconds, with ignition
switch in the "OFF" position. NOTE If battery ground cable is disconnected to clear codes, components such as clocks, electronically
tuned radios etc., will have to be reset.
- It is a good idea to record preset radio stations before disconnecting the negative battery cable.
This will allow the stations to be reset as to not inconvenience the customer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Locations
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4851
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4852
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4853
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4854
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4855
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4856
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4857
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4858
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4859
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4860
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4861
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4862
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4863
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4864
Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4866
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4867
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4868
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Instructions > Page 4871
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4872
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4873
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4874
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4875
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4876
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4877
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4878
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4879
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4880
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4881
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4882
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 4883
MAP System
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4884
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in the intake manifold
pressure. The pressure changes as a result of engine load and speed. The map sensor converts
this to a voltage output.
OPERATION
A closed throttle on engine coast down would produce a relatively low MAP output voltage. A wide
open throttle would produce a high MAP output voltage. This high output voltage is produced
because the pressure inside the manifold is the same as outside the manifold. The MAP is
inversely proportional to what is measured on a vacuum gage. The MAP sensor is used for the
following:
^ Altitude determination.
^ Ignition timing control.
^ Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) diagnostic.
^ Speed density fuel management default.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4885
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAP sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0106 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0107 circuit low.
^ DTC P0108 circuit high.
^ DTC P1106 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1107 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure
(MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4886
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor
NOTE: Other than checking for loose hoses and electrical connections, the only service possible is
unit replacement, if the diagnosis shows the sensor to be faulty.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the vacuum harness assembly. 3.
Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 4. Remove the bolts or release lock tabs
and remove the sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bolts or snap sensor on bracket. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Connect the
vacuum harness. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Quad Driver <--> [Output
Driver] > Component Information > Locations
Quad Driver: Locations
Quad/Output drivers are hard wired onto the ECM/PCM/VCM.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Quad Driver <--> [Output
Driver] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4890
Quad Driver: Description and Operation
Quad/Output Driver Module
The Control Module in this vehicle controls most components with electronic switches which
complete a ground circuit when turned on.
When the switches are arranged in groups of 4, they can independently control up to 4 outputs and
are called Quad Drivers.
When the switches are arranged in groups of 7, they can independently control up to 7 outputs and
are called Output Drivers.
Not all outputs are always used.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Quad Driver <--> [Output
Driver] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4891
Quad Driver: Testing and Inspection
Little or no quad driver testing was supplied by the manufacturer. The engine module decides when
to turn each switch of the driver "ON".
Even though some models will set codes, in the end, if you want to check the driver itself, you'll
need:
1. To use a scantool to command the suspected driver switch to energize (ground) the circuit, while
checking with a test light, 2. To operate the vehicle in a way that should cause the suspected
portion of the driver to switch "ON".
On the up side, since the early 90's, most driver load circuits utilized circuit breakers. This
protected most drivers and engine models from burning up when the circuit was overloaded.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Quad Driver <--> [Output
Driver] > Component Information > Locations > Page 4892
Quad Driver: Service and Repair
Quad/Output drivers are hard wired onto the ECM/PCM/VCM, and can't be serviced separately.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4897
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4898
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page
4899
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 4900
Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) ..........................................................................................................
...................................................... 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations
Light Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Heavy Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4903
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations
Engine View, Rear
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 4906
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4942
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4943
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4944
Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
C107: Engine HARN To Oxygen Sensor HARN
Oxygen Sensor RH, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 4945
HO2S Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4946
Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Cutaway
OPERATION
To control emissions of Hydrocarbons (HO), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen
(NOx), a three-way catalytic converter is used. The catalyst within the converter promotes a
chemical reaction which oxidizes the HO and CO present in the exhaust gas, converting them into
harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst also reduces NOx, converting it to nitrogen.
The VCM has the ability to monitor this process using the Bank 1 Sensor 2 and the Bank 2 Sensor
2 heated oxygen sensors. The Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates
the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gas entering the three way catalytic converter. The
Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates the oxygen storage capacity of
the catalyst; this in turn indicates the catalyst ability to convert exhaust gases efficiently. If the
catalyst is operating efficiently, the Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor will produce a far more active signal
than that produced by the Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 4947
The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the Bank 1
Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensors main function is catalyst monitoring, they also play a limited
role in fuel control. If a sensor output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias
voltage for an extended period of time, the VCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure
that fuel delivery is correct for catalyst monitoring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
The heated oxygen sensor circuit, if open, should set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0134 and
the Scan tool will display a constant voltage between 350-550 mV. A constant voltage below 250
mV in the sensor circuit should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 750 mV in the
circuit should set DTC P0132. DTC P0131 and DTC P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel
system problems. Refer to DTC P0131 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0132
HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0134 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1
Sensor 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing > Page 4950
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) Testing
A problem with the HO2S 2 electrical circuits should set Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0137,
P0138 or P0140, depending on the specific condition. If the catalyst is functioning correctly, the
HO2S 2 signal will be far less active than that produced by HO2S 1. If a problem exists which
causes the VCM to detect excessive HO2S 2 activity outside of an acceptable range for an
extended period of time, the VCM will set DTC P0420, indicating that the three-way catalytic
converter [prime ]s oxygen storage capacity is below a threshold considered acceptable. Refer to
DTC P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0140 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0420 TWC
System Low Efficiency Bank 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing
information. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4951
Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Electrical Connector
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) and the Oxygen Sensor use a permanently
attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove this pigtail from the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Damage or the removal of the pigtail or the connector could affect the proper operation of the
sensor.
CAUTION: Take care when handling the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the
louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Also avoid using cleaning solvents of any
type. Do not drop or roughly handle the HO2S.
CAUTION: If the heated oxygen sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire
oxygen sensor assembly must be replaced. Do Not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or
terminals. In order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air
reference.
CAUTION: This clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater
wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the
air reference and degraded sensor performance. The following guidelines should be used when
servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
^ Do Not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
^ The sensor pigtail and harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside
are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause
performance problems,
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do Not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion. be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector. The engine harness
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 4952
may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no
circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being
obstructed.
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine
temperature is below 48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust
manifold or the exhaust pipe.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the electrical connector by releasing the
locking tab. 3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The
compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the
glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors
already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if
for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the
equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory
Usage
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-054B
Date: November 18, 2010
Subject: Info - Non-GM Parts and Accessories (Aftermarket)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and update to the new U.S. Fixed
Operation Manager (FOM) and Canada Warranty Manager (WM) names. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-054A (Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
The recent rise and expansion of companies selling non-GM parts and accessories has made it
necessary to issue this reminder to dealers regarding GM's policy on the use and installation of
these aftermarket components.
When a dealer is performing a repair under the New Vehicle Limited Warranty, they are required to
use only genuine GM or GM-approved parts and accessories. This applies to all warranty repairs,
special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM. Parts and accessories advertised as being "the
same" as parts manufactured by GM, but not sold through GM, do not qualify for use in warranty
repairs, special policy repairs or any repairs paid for by GM.
During a warranty repair, if a GM original equipment part is not available through GM Customer
Care and Aftersales (GM CC&A;), ACDelco(R) distributors, other GM dealers or approved sources,
the dealer is to obtain comparable, non-GM parts and clearly indicate, in detail, on the repair order
the circumstances surrounding why non-GM parts were used. The dealer must give customers
written notice, prior to the sale or service, that such parts or accessories are not marketed or
warranted by General Motors.
It should also be noted that dealers modifying new vehicles and installing equipment, parts and
accessories obtained from sources not authorized by GM are responsible for complying with the
National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act. Certain non-approved parts or assemblies, installed
by the dealer or its agent not authorized by GM, may result in a change to the vehicle's design
characteristics and may affect the vehicle's ability to conform to federal law. Dealers must fully
understand that non-GM approved parts may not have been validated, tested or certified for use.
This puts the dealer at risk for potential liability in the event of a part or vehicle failure. If a GM part
failure occurs as the result of the installation or use of a non-GM approved part, the warranty will
not be honored.
A good example of non-authorized modification of vehicles is the result of an ever increasing
supply of aftermarket devices available to the customer, which claim to increase the horsepower
and torque of the Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines. These include the addition of, but are not limited to
one or more of the following modifications:
- Propane injection
- Nitrous oxide injection
- Additional modules (black boxes) that connect to the vehicle wiring systems
- Revised engine calibrations downloaded for the engine control module
- Calibration modules which connect to the vehicle diagnostic connector
- Modification to the engine turbocharger waste gate
Although the installation of these devices, or modification of vehicle components, can increase
engine horsepower and torque, they may also negatively affect the engine emissions, reliability
and/or durability. In addition, other powertrain components, such as transmissions, universal joints,
drive shafts, and front/rear axle components, can be stressed beyond design safety limits by the
installation of these devices.
General Motors does not support or endorse the use of devices or modifications that, when
installed, increase the engine horsepower and torque. It is because of these unknown stresses,
and the potential to alter reliability, durability and emissions performance, that GM has adopted a
policy that prevents any UNAUTHORIZED dealer warranty claim submissions to any remaining
warranty coverage, to the powertrain and driveline components whenever the presence of a
non-GM (aftermarket) calibration is confirmed - even if the non-GM control module calibration is
subsequently removed. Refer to the latest version of Bulletin 09-06-04-026 (V8 Gas Engines) or
06-06-01-007 (Duramax(TM) Diesel Engines) for more information on dealer requirements for
calibration verification.
These same policies apply as they relate to the use of non-GM accessories. Damage or failure
from the use or installation of a non-GM accessory will not be covered under warranty. Failure
resulting from the alteration or modification of the vehicle, including the cutting, welding or
disconnecting of the vehicle's original equipment parts and components will void the warranty.
Additionally, dealers will NOT be reimbursed or compensated by GM in the event of any legal
inquiry at either the local, state or federal level that
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 04-06-04-054B > Nov > 10 > Engine Controls - Aftermarket Accessory Usage > Page 4967
results from the alteration or modification of a vehicle using non-GM approved parts or accessories.
Dealers should be especially cautious of accessory companies that claim the installation of their
product will not void the factory warranty. Many times these companies have even given direction
on how to quickly disassemble the accessory in an attempt to preclude the manufacturer from
finding out that is has been installed.
Any suspect repairs should be reviewed by the Fixed Operations Manager (FOM), and in Canada
by the Warranty Manager (WM) for appropriate repair direction. If it is decided that a goodwill repair
is to be made on the vehicle, even with the installation of such non-GM approved components, the
customer is to be made aware of General Motors position on this issue and is to sign the
appropriate goodwill documentation required by General Motors.
It is imperative for dealers to understand that by installing such devices, they are jeopardizing not
only the warranty coverage, but also the performance and reliability of the customer's vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 83-81-32 > Sep > 98 > PCM Connector - Information on New Service Kits
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PCM Connector - Information on New
Service Kits
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 83-81-32
Date: September, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Connector Service Kits
Models: 1996-99 All Passenger Cars except Geo and Catera
Two new kits have been released to service the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) connector If the
connector has been damaged during servicing. This PCM has an aluminum body and is usually
mounted underhood.
Kit (P/N 12167308) contains the 80 way connector body, the cover, two each of four different
terminal retainers and 25 empty cavity plugs. No terminals are included.
If terminals are needed, use P/N 12084913 for 0.35 mm and 0.50 mm wire and P/N 12084912 for
0.80 mm wire. These terminals are included in the terminal repair kit J 38125A or B, and
replacements can be ordered from Kent-Moore.
kit (P/N 12167313) contains one connector seal. Whenever the connector is unbolted from the
aluminum body of the PCM, the seal can stick to the body, or may be twisted. This seal should be
replaced whenever the connector is removed in service.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12167308 Kit, PCM Harness Repair
12167313 Seal Kit, PCM Connector
12084912 Terminal
12084913 Terminal
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No
DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
Engine Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board
Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4980
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4981
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4982
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4983
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4984
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4985
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins: > 736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 4986
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 4992
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 4993
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
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Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 4999
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Engine Control Module: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 5000
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
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5001
Engine Control Module: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
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5002
Vehicle Control Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Engine Control Module: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 5006
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 5007
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 5008
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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and Instructions > Page 5009
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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and Instructions > Page 5010
Engine Control Module: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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and Instructions > Page 5011
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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and Instructions > Page 5017
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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and Instructions > Page 5034
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 5037
Engine Control Module: Connector Views
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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and Instructions > Page 5038
Connector End View
Connector Terminal ID
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and Instructions > Page 5039
Connector Terminal ID
ECM/PCM/VCM Pinout Voltage
The OE manufacture does not provide an ECM/PCM/VCM connector voltage pinout chart for this
vehicle, only a function description.
Connector End View
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and Instructions > Page 5040
Connector Terminal ID
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and Instructions > Page 5041
Connector Terminal ID
Connector End View
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and Instructions > Page 5042
Connector Terminal ID
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and Instructions > Page 5043
Connector Terminal ID
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Engine Control Module: Service Precautions
Control Module Service Precautions
The control module is designed to withstand normal current draws associated with vehicle
operations. Avoid overloading any circuit. When testing for opens or shorts, do not ground any of
the control module circuits unless instructed. When testing for opens or shorts, do not apply voltage
to any of the control module circuits unless instructed. Only test these circuits with a digital
voltmeter J 39200, while the control module connectors remain connected to the control module.
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Engine Control Module: Description and Operation
GENERAL DESCRIPTION
The VCM is located on the right hand side fenderwell. The VCM is the control center for the fuel,
emissions, ignition, and automatic transmission control functions.
The VCM constantly monitors the information from the various sensors. The VCM controls the
component systems which affect the engine operation.
The VCM alerts the driver through the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) or the antilock indicator
lamp. The VCM stores the DTCs which identify the problem areas for the technician making
repairs. Refer to Vehicle Control Module, for further information on using the diagnostic function of
the VCM for engine operation.
^ Refer to Transmission for the diagnosis of the automatic transmission.
^ Refer to Anti-lock brakes for diagnosis of the brake system.
The VCM in this vehicle is programmable. The only services allowed on the VCM is the control
module replacement with the Knock Sensor (KS) calibrator Programmable Read Only Memory
(PROM) transferred or the KS calibrator PROM only.
The KS calibrator contains the up integrated knock sensor calibration. The VCM stores the 4
calibrations in the Electronically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM).
When replacing the VCM, programming the EEPROM and transferring the KS calibrator PROM to
the new VCM is mandatory. Refer to the EEPROM Programming. Refer to VCM
Replacement/Programming. See: Service and Repair
The 4 calibrations required for the VCM are the Powertrain, the ABS, the VSS buffer, and the A/C.
Each calibration has its own part number. Determine the correct calibrations for a particular vehicle
based on the VIN number of the vehicle.
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LAMP (MIL)
The MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) is on the instrument panel. The MIL has the following
functions:
^ The MIL informs the driver that a fault that affects the vehicle's emission levels has occurred. The
owner should take the vehicle for service as soon as possible.
^ As a bulb and system check, the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) comes on with the key on and
the engine not running. When the engine is started, the MIL turns off if no DTCs are set.
When the MIL remains on while the engine is running, or when a malfunction is suspected due to a
driveability or emissions problem, perform an On-Board Diagnostic (OBD) System Check. The
procedures for these checks are given in engine controls. These checks expose faults which the
technician may not detect if other diagnostics are performed first.
DIAGNOSTIC INFORMATION
The diagnostic Tables and functional checks are designed to locate a faulty circuit or component
through a process of logical decisions. The Tables are prepared with the assumption that the
vehicle functioned correctly at the time of assembly and that there are not multiple faults present.
There is a continuous self-diagnosis on certain control functions. This diagnostic capability is
complemented by the diagnostic procedures contained in this manual. The language of
communicating the source of the malfunction is a system of diagnostic trouble codes. When a
malfunction is detected by the control module, a diagnostic trouble code will set and the
Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Malfunction Indicator Lamp will illuminate on some applications.
VCM LEARNING ABILITY
WARNING: Since the VCM is located under the hood, its connectors are sealed and cannot be
backprobed as in the previous model years. Do not attempt to backprobe as a connector or seal
damage could occur.
The VCM's learning ability allows it to make corrections for minor variations in the fuel system in
order to improve driveability. When the battery is disconnected for other repairs, the learning
process resets. The driver my note a change in the vehicle's performance. In order to teach the
vehicle ensure that the engine is at the operating temperature. Drive the vehicle at part throttle with
a moderate acceleration and idle conditions until normal performance returns.
INPUT INFORMATION
The VCM processes the various input information. Then the VCM sends the necessary electrical
responses to the control fuel delivery, the spark timing, and the other emission control systems.
The input information interrelates to more than one output; therefore, if the one input fails, the
failure can affect more than one system's operation.
PROM (KS Module)
This assembly contains an electronic Knock Sensor (KS) module.
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MEMORY
There are two types of memory storage within the VCM, EEPROM and RAM.
EEPROM
Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM) is a permanent memory that is
physically soldered to the circuit boards within the VCM. The EEPROM contains the overall control
algorithms. The EEPROM can be reprogrammed by using the scan tool.
RAM
Random Access Memory (RAM) is the microprocessor scratch pad. The processor can write into or
read from this memory as needed. This memory is volatile and needs a constant supply of voltage
to be retained. If the voltage is lost, the memory is lost.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Component
Tests and General Diagnostics
Engine Control Module: Component Tests and General Diagnostics
The approved procedure for diagnosing all powertrain control system faults is included in the
Strategy Based Diagnostics. The preliminary checks and the Powertrain On-board Diagnostic
System Check must be performed to successfully diagnose and repair the powertrain systems. To
read and clear diagnostic trouble codes, use a scan tool. See: Testing and Inspection
Use a scan tool to clear diagnostic trouble codes from the VCM memory. Diagnostic trouble codes
can also be cleared by turning OFF the ignition and disconnecting the battery power from the VCM
for 30 seconds, but this method will also cause all diagnostic information in the VCM memory to be
cleared and all the diagnostic tests will have to be re-run.
Since the VCM can have a failure which may affect only one circuit, following the approved
diagnostic procedures will determine which circuit has a problem and where it is. If a diagnostic
table indicates that the VCM connections or VCM is the cause of a problem and the VCM is
replaced. but does not correct the problem, one of the following conditions may exist:
^ There is a problem with the VCM terminal connections. The diagnostic table will indicate that the
VCM connections or VCM is the problem. The terminals may have to be removed from the VCM
connector in order to check them properly.
^ The EEPROM program is not correct for the application. Incorrect components may cause a
malfunction and may or may not set a DTC.
^ The problem is intermittent. This means that the problem is not present at the time the system is
being checked. In this case, refer to Symptoms and make a careful visual and physical inspection
of all suspected components and wiring associated with the affected system. See: Testing and
Inspection
^ There is a shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness. Solenoids and relays are turned ON and OFF
by the VCM using internal electronic switches called drivers. Each driver is part of a group of seven
called output driver modules. A shorted solenoid, relay coil, or harness will not damage the VCM
but will cause the solenoid or relay to be inoperative. The J 34636 tester, or equivalent, provides a
fast, accurate means of checking for a shorted coil or a short to battery voltage.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Relays and Modules Computers and Control Systems > Engine Control Module > Component Information > Service and Repair > Control
Module Replacement
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair Control Module Replacement
VCM Harness Connections
VCM Access Cover
Removing Knock Sensor Module From PCM
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Module Replacement > Page 5051
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING
Service of the VCM consists of either replacement of VCM or reprogramming of the EEPROM. If
the diagnostics call for replacement of the VCM, it will be necessary to transfer the PROM and
program the EEPROM.
NOTE: When replacing the production VCM with a service VCM (controller), it is important to
transfer the broadcast code and production VCM number to the service VCM label. This will allow
positive identification of VCM parts throughout the service life of the vehicle. Also transfer the
PROM.
CAUTION: To prevent internal VCM damage, the ignition must be OFF when disconnecting or
reconnecting power to the VCM (for example, battery cable, VCM fuse, jumper cables, etc.).
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
VCM REPLACEMENT/PROGRAMMING (WITH KNOCK SENSOR (KS) CALIBRATION PROM)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the connectors from the VCM. 3. Remove the
spring retainer off and over the rail of the VCM. Slide the VCM out of the bracket at an angle. 4.
Remove the VCM access cover. 5. Remove the PROM/Knock Sensor (KS) module. 6. Inspect for
the alignment notches of the KS Calibration PROM. 7. Carefully set it aside. 8. Do not open the KS
Calibration PROM. 9. Remove the new VCM from the packaging. Check the service number in
order to make sure it is the same as the defective VCM.
10. Remove the access cover.
NOTE
^ The Knock Sensor (KS) module must be transferred to the replacement VCM.
^ The replacement VCM is supplied without a EEPROM program, the replacement VCM must be
programmed before the vehicle will run.
^ Using the thumb and first finger, remove the KS Calibration PROM by gently squeezing each end
of the blue KS Calibration PROM
^ Do not remove the cover of the KS Calibration PROM. Use of an unapproved KS Calibration
PROM removal methods may cause damage to the KS Calibration PROM or the socket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Press only on the ends of the KS Calibration PROM. Gently press on the KS Calibration
PROM until it is firmly seated in the socket. Listen for the click.
1. Align the notches of the KS Calibration PROM with the notches in the KS Calibration PROM
socket. 2. Install the KS Calibration PROM in the KS Calibration PROM socket. 3. Install the
access cover on the VCM. 4. Install the VCM in the engine compartment. 5. Install the connectors
to the VCM. 6. The MIL, antilock and brake lamps will continue to be enabled until the VCM is
programmed. Once the programming is complete, the lamps will
turn off and normal operation will occur.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Module Replacement > Page 5052
CAUTION: In order to prevent possible Electrostatic Discharge damage to the VCM, do not touch
the connector pins or soldered components on the circuit board.
8. Proceed to the EEPROM programming. See: EEPROM Programming
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Module Replacement > Page 5053
Engine Control Module: Service and Repair EEPROM Programming
CAUTION: The ignition should always be "off" when installing or removing the Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) connectors.
1. Set-up:
^ Battery is charged.
^ Ignition is "ON."
^ Battery/cig. lighter Connection secure.
^ Data Link Connector (DLC).
2. Refer to up-to-date Techline terminal/equipment user's instructions.
3. If Vehicle Control Module (VCM) fails to program, do the following:
^ Check all VCM connections.
^ check Techline terminal/equipment for latest software version.
^ Try again to program the VCM. If it fails again, replace the VCM. Refer to VCM replacement. See:
Control Module Replacement
4. Perform the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve reset procedure with the scan tool. use misc. test. 5. For
a functional check perform one of the steps:
^ Use the Techline terminal and equipment in order to perform the On-Board Diagnostic (OBD)
System Check
^ Refer to Powertrain OBD System Check. See: Testing and Inspection
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Knock Sensor Module
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5062
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5063
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5064
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5065
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5066
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5067
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5082
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5083
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5084
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5085
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5086
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5087
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5088
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5089
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5090
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5091
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5092
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5093
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5094
Mass Air Flow System
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Diagrams > Page 5095
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Diagrams > Page 5096
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5101
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Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5106
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5107
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Page 5108
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
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Page 5109
Engine View, Rear
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and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Cam
Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Testing and Inspection
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Specifications
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Specifications
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor
.............................................................................................................................................. 13 Nm
(10 lb. ft.).
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Engine Side, LH
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5179
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5180
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5181
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5182
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5183
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5184
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5185
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5186
ECT Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5187
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Description and Operation
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
DESCRIPTION
The engine coolant temperature sensor is a thermistor (a resistor which changes value based on
temperature) mounted in the engine coolant passage. Low coolant temperature produces a high
resistance 100,000 ohms at -40°C (-40°F) while high temperature causes low resistance 70 ohms
at 130°C (266°F).
OPERATION
The VCM supplies a 5 volt signal to the engine coolant temperature sensor through a resistor in the
VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the engine is cold. The voltage will
be low when the engine is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the engine coolant
temperature. Engine coolant temperature affects most systems the VCM controls.
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 9O°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If
the engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and
intake air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a
malfunction in the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic
Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high.
The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Specifications. See: Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5188
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays engine coolant temperature in degrees. After engine start-up, the
temperature should rise steadily to about 90°C (194°F) then stabilize when thermostat opens. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight), the engine coolant temperature and intake
air temperature displays should be close to each other. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s
will set:
^ DTC P0117 circuit low.
^ DTC P0118 circuit high.
^ DTC P0125 excessive time to Closed Loop.
^ DTC P1114 circuit intermittent low.
^ DTC P1115 circuit intermittent high. The above DTCs contain a table to check for sensor
resistance values relative to temperature.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer) > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 5189
Coolant Temperature Sensor/Switch (For Computer): Service and Repair
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor Electrical Connector
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor
CAUTION: Use care when handling the coolant sensor. Damage to the coolant sensor will affect
the operation of the fuel control system.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Relieve the coolant pressure. 2. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 3. Drain the cooling
system below the level of the sensor. 4. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
5. Remove the coolant sensor from engine.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Coat the threads (only) with sealer P/N 9985253 or equivalent.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 13 N.m (10 lb. ft.).
2. Install the coolant sensor in the engine. 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Refill the cooling
system. 5. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5207
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5208
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5209
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5210
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5211
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5212
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC
P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5213
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5219
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5220
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5221
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5222
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5223
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5224
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 5225
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 5226
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Page 5227
Engine Side, RH
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
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1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component
Information > Specifications
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Specifications Torque Valve
Torque Valve
Induction Air Sensor 44 in.lb
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor <--> [Intake Air Temperature Sensor] > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5294
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5295
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5296
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5297
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5298
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5299
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5300
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5301
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5302
IAT Sensor Circuit
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Information > Diagrams > Page 5303
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Description and Operation
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is a thermistor which changes value based on the
temperature of air entering the engine.
OPERATION
Low temperature produces a high resistance 100,000 ohms at -40° (-40°F). A high temperature
causes low resistance 70 ohms at 130°C (266°F). The VCM supplies a 5.0 volt signal to the sensor
through a resistor in the VCM and measures the voltage. The voltage will be high when the
incoming air is cold, and low when the air is hot. By measuring the voltage, the VCM calculates the
incoming air temperature. The IAT sensor signal is used to adjust spark timing according to
incoming air density.
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Information > Diagrams > Page 5304
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
The scan tool displays temperature of the air entering the engine, which should read close to
ambient air temperature when engine is cold, and rise as underhood temperature increases. If the
engine has not been run for several hours (overnight) the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor
temperature and engine coolant temperature should read close to each other. If the VCM detects a
malfunction in the AT sensor circuit, the following DTCs will set:
^ DTC P0112 circuit low.
^ DTC P0113 circuit high.
^ DTC P0111 circuit intermittent high.
^ DTC P0112 circuit intermittent low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
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Information > Diagrams > Page 5305
Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Sensor: Service and Repair
IAT Sensor And Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 2. Remove the Intake Air Temperature
(IAT) sensor by grasping sensor, twist and pull out from air cleaner
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the IAT sensor. 2. Connect the electrical connector
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 5313
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Instructions > Page 5317
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Instructions > Page 5334
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Instructions > Page 5335
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Instructions > Page 5336
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Instructions > Page 5337
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Instructions > Page 5338
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Instructions > Page 5339
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 5340
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Instructions > Page 5341
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 5342
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Instructions > Page 5343
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 5344
Knock Sensor Circuit
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Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
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Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] >
Component Information > Locations
Engine Side, RH
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5352
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5353
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5354
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5355
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5356
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5357
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5358
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor <--> [Manifold Pressure/Vacuum Sensor] >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5359
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5360
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5361
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5363
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5364
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5366
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5367
Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5368
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5372
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5373
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5374
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5375
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5376
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5377
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5378
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5379
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5380
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5381
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5382
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5383
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5384
MAP System
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5385
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Description and Operation
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor
PURPOSE
The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor responds to changes in the intake manifold
pressure. The pressure changes as a result of engine load and speed. The map sensor converts
this to a voltage output.
OPERATION
A closed throttle on engine coast down would produce a relatively low MAP output voltage. A wide
open throttle would produce a high MAP output voltage. This high output voltage is produced
because the pressure inside the manifold is the same as outside the manifold. The MAP is
inversely proportional to what is measured on a vacuum gage. The MAP sensor is used for the
following:
^ Altitude determination.
^ Ignition timing control.
^ Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) diagnostic.
^ Speed density fuel management default.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5386
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Testing and Inspection
When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAP sensor circuit, the following Diagnostic Trouble
Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0106 circuit performance.
^ DTC P0107 circuit low.
^ DTC P0108 circuit high.
^ DTC P1106 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1107 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Testing and Inspection
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Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5387
Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAP Sensor
NOTE: Other than checking for loose hoses and electrical connections, the only service possible is
unit replacement, if the diagnosis shows the sensor to be faulty.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the vacuum harness assembly. 3.
Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab. 4. Remove the bolts or release lock tabs
and remove the sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the bolts or snap sensor on bracket. 2. Connect the electrical connector. 3. Connect the
vacuum harness. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Oxygen
Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems
Oxygen Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Oxygen Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust
Systems
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Pictorial of Oxygen Sensor Designations in Various Exhaust Systems Configurations
Models: 1996-97 Passenger Cars, Geos and Trucks
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Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5392
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Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5393
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Sensor - Locations in Various Exhaust Systems > Page 5394
Pictorials of the designation of oxygen sensors in General Motors vehicles.
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
bulletin is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to misidentification. When using
Section 6E of the Service Manual, this chart can help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for
the diagnostic.
For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder (odd
cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Just a reminder, the OBD II P-codes, technician observations and customer comments are all to be
recorded on the repair order in accordance with article 1.6.2G of the GM Service Policies and
Procedures Manual.
Use the approved labor operation for the sensors replaced. J 6372 is used for engine out sensors.
Labor Operation J 6380 is for the pre-sensor (the sensor just in front of the catalytic converter) and
the post sensor (the sensor behind the catalytic converter).
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Oxygen Sensor: Specifications
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) ..........................................................................................................
...................................................... 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Oxygen Sensor: Component Locations
Light Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
Heavy Duty Vehicles
Bulletin No.: 67-65-40
PICTORIALS OF THE DESIGNATION OF OXYGEN SENSORS
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There has been some confusion relative to OBD II oxygen sensor designation. The intent of this
article is to eliminate misdiagnosis of those oxygen sensors due to mis-identification. This chart can
help locate the appropriate bank and sensor for the diagnostic.
NOTE: For "V" engines; BANK 1 is always on the side of the engine with the number 1 cylinder
(odd cylinders), and BANK 2 is always on the side of the engine where the number 2 cylinder (even
cylinders) is located.
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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Oxygen Sensor: Connector Locations
Engine View, Rear
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5400
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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5401
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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5402
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
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5403
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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5404
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Oxygen Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 5408
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Oxygen Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Instructions > Page 5421
Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Instructions > Page 5424
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Instructions > Page 5427
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5434
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 5435
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Instructions > Page 5436
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 5437
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Instructions > Page 5438
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 5439
Oxygen Sensor: Connector Views
C107: Engine HARN To Oxygen Sensor HARN
Oxygen Sensor RH, LH
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Instructions > Page 5440
HO2S Circuit
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Oxygen Sensor: Description and Operation
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Cutaway
OPERATION
To control emissions of Hydrocarbons (HO), Carbon Monoxide (CO), and Oxides of Nitrogen
(NOx), a three-way catalytic converter is used. The catalyst within the converter promotes a
chemical reaction which oxidizes the HO and CO present in the exhaust gas, converting them into
harmless water vapor and carbon dioxide. The catalyst also reduces NOx, converting it to nitrogen.
The VCM has the ability to monitor this process using the Bank 1 Sensor 2 and the Bank 2 Sensor
2 heated oxygen sensors. The Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates
the amount of oxygen present in the exhaust gas entering the three way catalytic converter. The
Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor produces an output signal which indicates the oxygen storage capacity of
the catalyst; this in turn indicates the catalyst ability to convert exhaust gases efficiently. If the
catalyst is operating efficiently, the Bank 1 Sensor 2 sensor will produce a far more active signal
than that produced by the Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensor.
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The catalyst monitor sensors operate the same as the fuel control sensors. Although the Bank 1
Sensor 2 and Bank 2 Sensor 2 sensors main function is catalyst monitoring, they also play a limited
role in fuel control. If a sensor output indicates a voltage either above or below the 450 millivolt bias
voltage for an extended period of time, the VCM will make a slight adjustment to fuel trim to ensure
that fuel delivery is correct for catalyst monitoring.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing
The heated oxygen sensor circuit, if open, should set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0134 and
the Scan tool will display a constant voltage between 350-550 mV. A constant voltage below 250
mV in the sensor circuit should set DTC P0131, while a constant voltage above 750 mV in the
circuit should set DTC P0132. DTC P0131 and DTC P0132 could also be set as a result of fuel
system problems. Refer to DTC P0131 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0132
HO2S Circuit High Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 1 or DTC P0134 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1
Sensor 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing information. See: Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Oxygen Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Heated Oxygen
Sensor (HO2S 1) Testing > Page 5445
Oxygen Sensor: Testing and Inspection Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S 2) Testing
A problem with the HO2S 2 electrical circuits should set Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0137,
P0138 or P0140, depending on the specific condition. If the catalyst is functioning correctly, the
HO2S 2 signal will be far less active than that produced by HO2S 1. If a problem exists which
causes the VCM to detect excessive HO2S 2 activity outside of an acceptable range for an
extended period of time, the VCM will set DTC P0420, indicating that the three-way catalytic
converter [prime ]s oxygen storage capacity is below a threshold considered acceptable. Refer to
DTC P0137 HO2S Circuit Low Voltage Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0138 HO2S Circuit High Voltage
Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0140 HO2S Insufficient Activity Bank 1 Sensor 2 or DTC P0420 TWC
System Low Efficiency Bank 1. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Charts for testing
information. See: Testing and Inspection
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Oxygen Sensor: Service and Repair
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Electrical Connector
Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) and the Oxygen Sensor use a permanently
attached pigtail and connector. Do not remove this pigtail from the Heated Oxygen Sensor.
Damage or the removal of the pigtail or the connector could affect the proper operation of the
sensor.
CAUTION: Take care when handling the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the
louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Also avoid using cleaning solvents of any
type. Do not drop or roughly handle the HO2S.
CAUTION: If the heated oxygen sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire
oxygen sensor assembly must be replaced. Do Not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or
terminals. In order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air
reference.
CAUTION: This clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater
wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the
air reference and degraded sensor performance. The following guidelines should be used when
servicing the heated oxygen sensor:
^ Do Not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
^ The sensor pigtail and harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside
are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause
performance problems,
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do Not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion. be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector. The engine harness
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may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no
circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being
obstructed.
CAUTION: The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine
temperature is below 48°C (120°F). Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust
manifold or the exhaust pipe.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the electrical connector by releasing the
locking tab. 3. Carefully back out the heated oxygen sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The
compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the
glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors
already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if
for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the
reinstallation.
1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the
equivalent if necessary. 2. Install the sensor.
Tighten ^
Tighten the sensor to 41 Nm (30 lb. ft.).
3. Install the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative battery cable.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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Engine Side, LH
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information
and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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and Instructions > Page 5455
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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and Instructions > Page 5457
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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and Instructions > Page 5459
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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and Instructions > Page 5460
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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and Instructions > Page 5462
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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and Instructions > Page 5476
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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and Instructions > Page 5477
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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and Instructions > Page 5478
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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and Instructions > Page 5479
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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and Instructions > Page 5480
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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and Instructions > Page 5481
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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and Instructions > Page 5482
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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and Instructions > Page 5483
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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and Instructions > Page 5484
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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and Instructions > Page 5485
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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and Instructions > Page 5486
TP Sensor
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Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle
Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle
Position (TP) Sensor > Page 5490
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
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5491
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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5492
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 5499
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 5500
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5503
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5504
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5505
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5506
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5507
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5522
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5523
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5524
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5525
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5526
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5527
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5528
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5529
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5530
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5531
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5532
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5533
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5534
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5535
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5536
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5537
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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5538
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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5539
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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5540
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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5541
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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5543
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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Page 5548
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
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Page 5549
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations >
Page 5550
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Page 5551
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > Component Locations >
Page 5552
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
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Page 5553
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Instructions > Page 5557
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 5558
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 5559
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Instructions > Page 5561
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 5582
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Instructions > Page 5583
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 5584
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Instructions > Page 5585
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 5586
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Instructions > Page 5587
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Vehicle Speed Sensor (2WD)
DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a pulse counter type input that informs the VCM how fast the
vehicle is being driven. The VSS system uses an inductive sensor mounted in the tail housing of
the transmission and a toothed reluctor wheel on the tail shaft.
OPERATION
As the reluctor rotates, the teeth alternately interfere with the magnetic field of the sensor creating
an induced voltage pulse.
The VSS produces an AC voltage signal that increases with vehicle speed. The VCM processes
this signal and sends it to the following components:
^ Instrument Panel.
^ Cruise Control Module.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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Component Information > Specifications > Page 5592
Engine Side, LH
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5596
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5597
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5599
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5600
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5601
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5605
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5620
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5621
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5622
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5623
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5624
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5625
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5626
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5627
TP Sensor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5628
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position (TP) Sensor > Page 5631
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5632
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 5633
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 5640
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 5641
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5644
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5645
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5646
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5647
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5648
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5649
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5650
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5651
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5652
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5666
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5667
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5668
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5669
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5670
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5671
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5672
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5673
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5674
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5675
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5676
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5677
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5678
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5679
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5680
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5681
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5682
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5683
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5684
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Component Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5689
5-Speed Manual Transmission (MW3)
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5690
5-Speed Manual Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5691
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5692
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5693
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Connector Locations
5-Speed Manual Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Locations > Component Locations > Page 5694
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5697
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5698
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5699
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5700
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5701
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5702
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5714
Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5716
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5717
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5718
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5719
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5720
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5721
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5722
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5723
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5724
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5725
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5726
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5727
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5728
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5729
Vehicle Speed Sensor: Description and Operation
Vehicle Speed Sensor (2WD)
DESCRIPTION
The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS) is a pulse counter type input that informs the VCM how fast the
vehicle is being driven. The VSS system uses an inductive sensor mounted in the tail housing of
the transmission and a toothed reluctor wheel on the tail shaft.
OPERATION
As the reluctor rotates, the teeth alternately interfere with the magnetic field of the sensor creating
an induced voltage pulse.
The VSS produces an AC voltage signal that increases with vehicle speed. The VCM processes
this signal and sends it to the following components:
^ Instrument Panel.
^ Cruise Control Module.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal
Buffer > Component Information > Locations
Instrument Panel Wiring, RH Side
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Computers and Control Systems > Vehicle Speed Sensor Signal
Buffer > Component Information > Locations > Page 5733
Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Air Injection > Air Injection Pump >
Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump: Locations
Front of Engine
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Air Injection > Air Injection Pump
Clutch > Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump Clutch: Locations
On front of Pump
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Air Injection > Air Injection Pump
Relay > Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Utility 2 Door
Catalytic Converter Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Catalytic Converter > Component
Information > Locations > Utility 2 Door > Page 5749
Catalytic Converter Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5754
Canister Purge Solenoid: Service and Repair
Diagram
Diagram
Diagram
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the purge solenoid electrical connector. 2. Remove the purge solenoid retaining bolts.
3. Remove the purge solenoid from the intake manifold.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the purge solenoid to the intake manifold. 2. Install the purge solenoid retaining bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Canister Purge Solenoid > Component Information > Locations > Page 5755
3. Install the purge solenoid electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Component Information > Service and Repair > Vapor Canister Replacement
Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Service and Repair Vapor Canister Replacement
EVAP Canister
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the EVAP hoses from the canister. Mark the hoses for installation on the new
canister. 2. Remove the screw from the mounting bracket and canister.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the EVAP canister and bracket screw. 2. Connect the EVAP hoses to canister.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Emission Control Canister > Component Information > Service and Repair > Vapor Canister Replacement >
Page 5760
Evaporative Emission Control Canister: Service and Repair Vapor Canister Hose Replacement
The EVAP pipe is secured to the underbody with clamp and screw assemblies. Flexible hoses are
connected at the fuel tank and the EVAP canister. The pipe should be inspected occasionally for
leaks, kinks, or dents and repaired as required.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose > Component Information > Service and Repair
Evaporative Fuel Vapor Return Hose: Service and Repair
EVAP Pipe Repair Repair the EVAP pipe in sections using brazed seamless steel tubing meeting
GM specification 123M or equivalent or hose identified with the word Fluoroelastomer. Hose not so
marked could cause failure or failure to meet emission standard.
^ Do not use copper or aluminum tubing to replace steel tubing. Those materials do not have
satisfactory durability to withstand normal vehicle vibrations.
^ Do not use rubber hose within 100 mm (4 inches) of any part of the exhaust system or within 250
mm (10 inches) of the catalytic converter. The replacement hose's inside diameter must match the
steel tubing outside diameter.
1. In repairable areas, cut a piece of fuel hose 100 mm (4 inches) longer than the portion of the line
being removed. When more than a 150 mm (6
inches) length of pipe is removed, use a combination of steel tubing and hose so that the entire
hose length will not be more than 250 mm (10 inches).
2. Cut the ends of the pipe remaining on the vehicle square by using a tubing cutter. By using the
first step of a double flaring tool, form a bead on
the ends of both pipe sections. If the pipe is too corroded to withstand bead operation without
damage, the pipe should be replaced. If a new section of pipe is used, form a bead on both ends.
3. Use screw type hose clamps GM part number 2494772 or equivalent. Slide the clamps onto the
pipe and push the hose 50 mm (2 inches) onto each
portion of the fuel pipe. Tighten the clamps on each side of the repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Thermal Vacuum Valve - EVAP > Component Information > Description and Operation
Thermal Vacuum Valve - EVAP: Description and Operation
EVAP Vacuum Switch
The EVAP Purge Vacuum Switch is used by the VCM to monitor EVAP canister purge solenoid
operation and purge system integrity. The EVAP Purge Vacuum Switch should be closed to ground
with no vacuum present (0% EVAP Purge Pulse Width Modulation (PWM). With EVAP Purge PWM
at 25% or greater, the EVAP Purge Vacuum Switch should open.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Evaporative Emissions System >
Thermal Vacuum Valve - EVAP > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 5767
Thermal Vacuum Valve - EVAP: Service and Repair
EVAP Vacuum Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the EVAP vacuum switch electrical connector.
2. Disconnect the EVAP vacuum switch vacuum hoses.
3. Remove the EVAP vacuum switch.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the EVAP vacuum switch.
2. Connect the EVAP vacuum switch vacuum hoses.
3. Connect the EVAP vacuum switch electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 97024 > Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust
Gas Recirculation Valve Used
Technical Service Bulletin # 97024 Date: 970801
Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used
Bulletin No.: 97024
Date: August, 1997
PRODUCT EMISSION CAMPAIGN
SUBJECT: 97024 INCORRECT LINEAR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVES USED FOR
SERVICE
MODELS: 1996-1997 C/K, G AND P TRUCKS WITH 4.3L (L35/LF6), 5.0L (L30) AND 5.7L (L31)
ENGINES
General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain 1996-97
C/K, S/T, M/L, G and P model vehicles equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 or LF6), 5.0L (RPO L30), and
5.7L (RPO L31) engines. Due to Service Parts Catalog part number reference errors, these
vehicles may have been serviced with an incorrect Linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation (LEGR) valve
according to warranty records. An incorrect LEGR valve may cause the On-Board Diagnostic
emission system to not operate as intended and/or cause driveability complaints.
To correct this condition dealers are to install the correct LEGR valve on vehicles identified as
having been serviced with incorrect part number.
Vehicles Involved
Involved are certain 1996-97 C/K, M/L, G and P model vehicles equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 or
LF6), 5.0L (RPO L30), and 5.7L (RPO L31) engines that were serviced with an incorrect Linear
EGR valve.
NOTICE:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through VISS (Vehicle Information Service System) or
ServiceNet (GMC only) prior to beginning campaign repairs.
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listings
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from State Motor
Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data (or any other
purpose is a violation of law in several stales Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this
listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Parts required-to-complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motor Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your involved vehicles listing prior to ordering. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency requirement should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Part Quantity/
Number Description Vehicle
17113405 Valve Assembly, EGR 1
12555896 Gasket, EGR 1
Customer Notification
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of typical
customer letter included with this bulletin actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
All unsold new vehicles in dealers possession and subject to this campaign must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin before customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle or ownership, from this time forward.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 97024 > Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust
Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5777
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the
appropriate divisional customer letter accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow up cards should
not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the notification
letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
When a California emissions campaign is completed by a GM dealer, the dealer must provide the
vehicle owner a "Proof Of Correction Certificate: which the owner may need to present to the
California Department Of Motor Vehicles (DMV) when renewing their vehicle registration. Without
this correction certificate, the owner may be unable to renew their vehicle registration.
Additional Certificates can be obtained, at no charge, from VISPAC, Incorporated by calling
1-800-269-5100, Monday through Friday, 8:00 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time. Ask for
GM Item Number 1825 when ordering.
Service Procedure
1. Remove air cleaner element (G/P, and M/L only).
2. Loosen air inlet pipe clamp closet to the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
3. Remove the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
4. Disconnect the linear EGR valve electrical connector.
5. Remove the EGR valve attaching bolts.
6. Remove the EGR valve and gasket.
7. Install new gasket p/n 12555896.
8. Install new EGR valve p/n 17113405.
Important:
The gasket and valve must be properly aligned as shown in Figure 1 such that the electrical
connection terminal on the EGR valve is approximately in the nine o'clock position or on the left,
when facing the front of engine.
9. Reinstall fastening bolts. Tighten bolts the first time to 10 Nm (89 lb.in.) each. Tighten bolts a
final time to 25 Nm (18 lb.ft.) each.
10. Install the electrical connector.
11. Reinstall the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
12. Tighten air inlet pipe clamp closest to the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
13. Reinstall air cleaner element (G/P, and M/L only).
14. Install the GM Campaign Identification Label.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 97024 > Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust
Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5778
15. California dealers only, provide owner with a "Vehicle Emission Recall Proof Of Correction"
certificate.
Campaign Identification Label
Each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign
Bulletin will require a "Campaign Identification Label". Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Each "Campaign Identification Label" is to be located on the radiator core support in an area which
will be visible when the vehicle is brought in by the customer for periodic servicing. When installing
the Campaign Identification Label, be sure to install the clear protective covering. Additional
Campaign Identification Labels can be obtained from VISPAC Incorporated by calling
1-800-259-5100 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST). Ask for item Number S-1015 when
ordering.
Apply the "Campaign Identification Label" only on a clean, dry surface.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors Corporation Claims Processing Manual for details on Product
Campaign Claim Submissions.
Owner Letter
97024
(Sample of Notification Used)
August 1997
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall: General Motors has decided that certain 1996-97 C/K, G, P, S/T and M/L
model vehicles equipped with 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines may have been serviced with an
incorrect Linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, due to Service Parts Catalog part number
reference errors. According to GM warranty repair records, your vehicle is one of the affected
models that has had an incorrect valve installed during service. An incorrect valve may cause your
On-Board Diagnostic emission system to not operate as intended and/or cause driveability
complaints.
What Will Be Done: To correct this condition, your dealer will install the correct valve on your
vehicle. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer: Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date
and to assure parts availability instructions for making this correction have been
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 97024 > Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust
Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5779
sent to your dealer. Please ask your dealer if you wish to know how much time will be need to
schedule, process and repair your vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the listed number below:
Deaf, Hearing Impaired
Division Number or Speech Impaired *
Chevrolet 1-800-222-1020 1-800-833-2438
GMC 1-800-462-8782 1-800-462-8583
Oldsmobile 1-800-442-6537 1-800-833-8537
* Utilizes Telecommunication Devices for the Deaf/Text Telephones (TDD/TTY)
Customer Reply Card: The enclosed customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of
this card to your dealer will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time.
If you no longer own this vehicle, please let us know by completing the postage paid reply card and
returning it to us.
Emission Law Information: In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty
made applicable to your vehicle by State or Federal Law, and vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
Failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also,
your vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR CALIFORNIA RESIDENTS
The California Air Resources Board (CARB) requires vehicle emission recall campaigns be
completed prior to California registration renewal. Uncorrected emission recall campaigns will result
in the inability to renew your California vehicle registration.
At the time of emission campaign completion, your California dealer will issue a "Proof Of
Correction Certificate". Keep this certificate and, if required, present it to the Department of Motor
Vehicles when renewing your California registration as proof of campaign completion.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 97024 >
Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used
Technical Service Bulletin # 97024 Date: 970801
Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used
Bulletin No.: 97024
Date: August, 1997
PRODUCT EMISSION CAMPAIGN
SUBJECT: 97024 INCORRECT LINEAR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION VALVES USED FOR
SERVICE
MODELS: 1996-1997 C/K, G AND P TRUCKS WITH 4.3L (L35/LF6), 5.0L (L30) AND 5.7L (L31)
ENGINES
General Motors has decided to conduct a Voluntary Emission Campaign involving certain 1996-97
C/K, S/T, M/L, G and P model vehicles equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 or LF6), 5.0L (RPO L30), and
5.7L (RPO L31) engines. Due to Service Parts Catalog part number reference errors, these
vehicles may have been serviced with an incorrect Linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation (LEGR) valve
according to warranty records. An incorrect LEGR valve may cause the On-Board Diagnostic
emission system to not operate as intended and/or cause driveability complaints.
To correct this condition dealers are to install the correct LEGR valve on vehicles identified as
having been serviced with incorrect part number.
Vehicles Involved
Involved are certain 1996-97 C/K, M/L, G and P model vehicles equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 or
LF6), 5.0L (RPO L30), and 5.7L (RPO L31) engines that were serviced with an incorrect Linear
EGR valve.
NOTICE:
Dealers should confirm vehicle eligibility through VISS (Vehicle Information Service System) or
ServiceNet (GMC only) prior to beginning campaign repairs.
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number. Computer listings
containing the complete Vehicle Identification Number, customer name and address data have
been prepared, and are being furnished to involved dealers with the campaign bulletin. The
customer name and address data furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with customers
involved in this campaign. Any dealer not receiving a computer listing with the campaign bulletin
has no involved vehicles currently assigned.
These dealer listings may contain customer names and addresses obtained from State Motor
Vehicle Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle registration data (or any other
purpose is a violation of law in several stales Accordingly, you are urged to limit the use of this
listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign.
Parts Information
Parts required-to-complete this campaign are to be obtained from General Motor Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your involved vehicles listing prior to ordering. Normal orders
should be placed on a DRO = Daily Replenishment Order. An emergency requirement should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
Part Quantity/
Number Description Vehicle
17113405 Valve Assembly, EGR 1
12555896 Gasket, EGR 1
Customer Notification
Customers will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of typical
customer letter included with this bulletin actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
In order to ensure full protection under the emission warranty, and the right to participate in future
recalls, the customer notification letter recommends that customers have their vehicles serviced as
soon as possible. It also advises that failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of
proper maintenance.
Dealer Campaign Responsibility
All unsold new vehicles in dealers possession and subject to this campaign must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin before customers take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to customers, regardless
of mileage, age of vehicle or ownership, from this time forward.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 97024 >
Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5785
Customers who have recently purchased vehicles sold from your vehicle inventory, and for which
there is no customer information indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer.
Arrangements are to be made to make the required correction according to the instructions
contained in this bulletin. This could be done by mailing to such customers a copy of the
appropriate divisional customer letter accompanying this bulletin. Campaign follow up cards should
not be used for this purpose, since the customer may not as yet have received the notification
letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
When a California emissions campaign is completed by a GM dealer, the dealer must provide the
vehicle owner a "Proof Of Correction Certificate: which the owner may need to present to the
California Department Of Motor Vehicles (DMV) when renewing their vehicle registration. Without
this correction certificate, the owner may be unable to renew their vehicle registration.
Additional Certificates can be obtained, at no charge, from VISPAC, Incorporated by calling
1-800-269-5100, Monday through Friday, 8:00 A.M. to 4:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time. Ask for
GM Item Number 1825 when ordering.
Service Procedure
1. Remove air cleaner element (G/P, and M/L only).
2. Loosen air inlet pipe clamp closet to the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
3. Remove the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
4. Disconnect the linear EGR valve electrical connector.
5. Remove the EGR valve attaching bolts.
6. Remove the EGR valve and gasket.
7. Install new gasket p/n 12555896.
8. Install new EGR valve p/n 17113405.
Important:
The gasket and valve must be properly aligned as shown in Figure 1 such that the electrical
connection terminal on the EGR valve is approximately in the nine o'clock position or on the left,
when facing the front of engine.
9. Reinstall fastening bolts. Tighten bolts the first time to 10 Nm (89 lb.in.) each. Tighten bolts a
final time to 25 Nm (18 lb.ft.) each.
10. Install the electrical connector.
11. Reinstall the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
12. Tighten air inlet pipe clamp closest to the air intake bonnet assembly (G/P, and M/L only).
13. Reinstall air cleaner element (G/P, and M/L only).
14. Install the GM Campaign Identification Label.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 97024 >
Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5786
15. California dealers only, provide owner with a "Vehicle Emission Recall Proof Of Correction"
certificate.
Campaign Identification Label
Each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign
Bulletin will require a "Campaign Identification Label". Each label provides a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Each "Campaign Identification Label" is to be located on the radiator core support in an area which
will be visible when the vehicle is brought in by the customer for periodic servicing. When installing
the Campaign Identification Label, be sure to install the clear protective covering. Additional
Campaign Identification Labels can be obtained from VISPAC Incorporated by calling
1-800-259-5100 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST). Ask for item Number S-1015 when
ordering.
Apply the "Campaign Identification Label" only on a clean, dry surface.
Claim Information
Submit a Product Campaign Claim with the information indicated.
Refer to the General Motors Corporation Claims Processing Manual for details on Product
Campaign Claim Submissions.
Owner Letter
97024
(Sample of Notification Used)
August 1997
Dear Customer:
This notice is sent to inform you that General Motors is conducting a voluntary emission recall
campaign that includes your vehicle.
Reason For This Recall: General Motors has decided that certain 1996-97 C/K, G, P, S/T and M/L
model vehicles equipped with 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L engines may have been serviced with an
incorrect Linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve, due to Service Parts Catalog part number
reference errors. According to GM warranty repair records, your vehicle is one of the affected
models that has had an incorrect valve installed during service. An incorrect valve may cause your
On-Board Diagnostic emission system to not operate as intended and/or cause driveability
complaints.
What Will Be Done: To correct this condition, your dealer will install the correct valve on your
vehicle. This service will be performed for you at no charge.
Contacting Your Dealer: Please contact your dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date
and to assure parts availability instructions for making this correction have been
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 97024 >
Aug > 97 > Recall - Incorrect Exhaust Gas Recirculation Valve Used > Page 5787
sent to your dealer. Please ask your dealer if you wish to know how much time will be need to
schedule, process and repair your vehicle.
Should your dealer be unable to schedule a service date within a reasonable time, you should
contact the appropriate Customer Assistance/Relations Center at the listed number below:
Deaf, Hearing Impaired
Division Number or Speech Impaired *
Chevrolet 1-800-222-1020 1-800-833-2438
GMC 1-800-462-8782 1-800-462-8583
Oldsmobile 1-800-442-6537 1-800-833-8537
* Utilizes Telecommunication Devices for the Deaf/Text Telephones (TDD/TTY)
Customer Reply Card: The enclosed customer reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of
this card to your dealer will assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time.
If you no longer own this vehicle, please let us know by completing the postage paid reply card and
returning it to us.
Emission Law Information: In order to ensure your full protection under the emission warranty
made applicable to your vehicle by State or Federal Law, and vehicle serviced as soon as possible.
Failure to do so could legally be determined to be lack of proper maintenance of your vehicle. Also,
your vehicle may fail a state or local emission inspection if this recall is not accomplished.
IMPORTANT MESSAGE FOR CALIFORNIA RESIDENTS
The California Air Resources Board (CARB) requires vehicle emission recall campaigns be
completed prior to California registration renewal. Uncorrected emission recall campaigns will result
in the inability to renew your California vehicle registration.
At the time of emission campaign completion, your California dealer will issue a "Proof Of
Correction Certificate". Keep this certificate and, if required, present it to the Department of Motor
Vehicles when renewing your California registration as proof of campaign completion.
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your continued satisfaction with our products.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 61-65-59 >
Dec > 96 > Engine Controls - Clear DTC's After PCM/VCM/EGR Service
EGR Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Clear DTC's After PCM/VCM/EGR
Service
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-59
Date: December, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Clear DTCs after PCM or VCM Replacement/Programming
or EGR Valve Replacement
Models: 1997 Buick Skylark 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass
1997 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 2.2L,
2.4L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engine (VINs 4, T, J, M, R, W, X - RPOs LN2, LD9, L29, L30, L31, L35,
LF6)
PCM Equipped Vehicles
This bulletin is being issued to revise the 1997 GMP/97-N-2, 1997 GMP/97-J-2 and 1997
GMT/97-ST-2 Service Manuals. Make the following revisions to the EGR replacement P0404, DTC
P0405, DTC P1404 and PCM EEPROM reprogramming sections of the Service Manual due to
possible setting of EGR DTCs after performing these procedures.
Clear DTCs from the PCM anytime either the PCM is reprogrammed or the EGR valve is replaced,
or anytime the ignition switch is turned on with the EGR valve electrical connector disconnected.
This is due to the auto zeroing function of the PCM on the EGR pintle.
VCM Equipped Trucks
This bulletin updates the following Service Manuals:
1997 1997 1997
GMT/97-ST-2 GMT/97-CK-2 GMT/97-ML-2
1997 1997 1997
GMT/97-G6-2 GMT/97-P3-2 GMT/96-ST-2
1996 1996 1996
GMT/96-CK-2 GMT/96-ML-2 GMT/96-G6-2
1996 1995 1995
GMT/96-P3-2 GMT/95-ST-2 GMT/95-CK-2
1995 1995 1995
GMT/95-ML-2 GMT/95-G6-2 GMT/95-P3-2
Add the following revision to these Engine Controls sections: EGR Valve Replacement, VCM
Replacement/Programming, EGR System Diagnosis, DTC P0401 and DTC P1406.
Clear any DTCs from the VCM anytime after doing VCM Replacement/programming, turning the
ignition ON while the EGR valve is disconnected, or replacing the EGR valve.
Please make a note of these revisions in your Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 >
Jan > 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation
EGR Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Linear EGR Valve - Installation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 57-65-28
Date: January, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Linear EGR Valve Installation
Models: 1993-96 Chevrolet and GMC Truck S/T; M/L, C/K, P, G Models 1993-94 Oldsmobile
Bravada 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L V6, 5.0L V8, 5.7L V8 Engine (VINs W, X, M, R RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
When installing Linear EGR Valves, take care to orientate the valve properly before installation. It is
possible to rotate the Linear EGR valve 18O°, and then install it on the intake manifold.
Notice: Linear EGR Valves improperly installed do not function as intended. Possible driveability
concerns include a rough idle and the setting of codes DTC 32 (EGR Error) or DTC 1406 (Pintle
Position Error).
Linear EGR Valves improperly installed may respond to high vacuum conditions (at idle) by pulling
the valve open, or high back pressure conditions by pushing the valve open.
When replacing or re-installing a LEGR valve, install the valve (with a new gasket) in the correct
orientation.
A new insulated gasket for use with this valve has been released for production and service.
(figure 1) Linear EGR Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 >
Jan > 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation > Page 5796
(figure 1) Linear EGR Legend
See figures.
Parts Information
Application Description Service P/N
All Linear EGR Valves Gasket Only 12555896
Important: The new gasket must be used whenever a LEGR valve is removed and reinstalled.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 >
Jan > 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation > Page 5797
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 61-65-59 > Dec
> 96 > Engine Controls - Clear DTC's After PCM/VCM/EGR Service
EGR Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Clear DTC's After PCM/VCM/EGR
Service
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-59
Date: December, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Clear DTCs after PCM or VCM Replacement/Programming
or EGR Valve Replacement
Models: 1997 Buick Skylark 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier, Malibu 1997 Oldsmobile Achieva, Cutlass
1997 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 2.2L,
2.4L, 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engine (VINs 4, T, J, M, R, W, X - RPOs LN2, LD9, L29, L30, L31, L35,
LF6)
PCM Equipped Vehicles
This bulletin is being issued to revise the 1997 GMP/97-N-2, 1997 GMP/97-J-2 and 1997
GMT/97-ST-2 Service Manuals. Make the following revisions to the EGR replacement P0404, DTC
P0405, DTC P1404 and PCM EEPROM reprogramming sections of the Service Manual due to
possible setting of EGR DTCs after performing these procedures.
Clear DTCs from the PCM anytime either the PCM is reprogrammed or the EGR valve is replaced,
or anytime the ignition switch is turned on with the EGR valve electrical connector disconnected.
This is due to the auto zeroing function of the PCM on the EGR pintle.
VCM Equipped Trucks
This bulletin updates the following Service Manuals:
1997 1997 1997
GMT/97-ST-2 GMT/97-CK-2 GMT/97-ML-2
1997 1997 1997
GMT/97-G6-2 GMT/97-P3-2 GMT/96-ST-2
1996 1996 1996
GMT/96-CK-2 GMT/96-ML-2 GMT/96-G6-2
1996 1995 1995
GMT/96-P3-2 GMT/95-ST-2 GMT/95-CK-2
1995 1995 1995
GMT/95-ML-2 GMT/95-G6-2 GMT/95-P3-2
Add the following revision to these Engine Controls sections: EGR Valve Replacement, VCM
Replacement/Programming, EGR System Diagnosis, DTC P0401 and DTC P1406.
Clear any DTCs from the VCM anytime after doing VCM Replacement/programming, turning the
ignition ON while the EGR valve is disconnected, or replacing the EGR valve.
Please make a note of these revisions in your Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 > Jan
> 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation
EGR Valve: All Technical Service Bulletins Linear EGR Valve - Installation
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 57-65-28
Date: January, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Linear EGR Valve Installation
Models: 1993-96 Chevrolet and GMC Truck S/T; M/L, C/K, P, G Models 1993-94 Oldsmobile
Bravada 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L V6, 5.0L V8, 5.7L V8 Engine (VINs W, X, M, R RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31)
When installing Linear EGR Valves, take care to orientate the valve properly before installation. It is
possible to rotate the Linear EGR valve 18O°, and then install it on the intake manifold.
Notice: Linear EGR Valves improperly installed do not function as intended. Possible driveability
concerns include a rough idle and the setting of codes DTC 32 (EGR Error) or DTC 1406 (Pintle
Position Error).
Linear EGR Valves improperly installed may respond to high vacuum conditions (at idle) by pulling
the valve open, or high back pressure conditions by pushing the valve open.
When replacing or re-installing a LEGR valve, install the valve (with a new gasket) in the correct
orientation.
A new insulated gasket for use with this valve has been released for production and service.
(figure 1) Linear EGR Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 > Jan
> 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation > Page 5807
(figure 1) Linear EGR Legend
See figures.
Parts Information
Application Description Service P/N
All Linear EGR Valves Gasket Only 12555896
Important: The new gasket must be used whenever a LEGR valve is removed and reinstalled.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for EGR Valve: > 576528 > Jan
> 96 > Linear EGR Valve - Installation > Page 5808
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5809
EGR Valve: Specifications Valve To Flange Bolts Torques
Valve To Flange Bolts Torques
Valve To Flange Bolts First Time 89 in.lb
Note: Each
Valve To Flange Bolts Final Time 18 in.lb
Note: Each
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5810
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5811
Linear EGR Valve
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5812
EGR Valve: Description and Operation
Exhaust Gas Flow
EGR Valve Subassemblies
DESCRIPTION
The control module command exclusively operates the linear Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
valve (1). The control module monitors the following various engine parameters:
^ The Throttle Position (TP) sensor.
^ The Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP).
^ The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5813
^ The EGR Pintle position sensor.
Output messages are then sent to the EGR system indicating the proper amount of exhaust gas (2)
recirculation [with intake air (3)] necessary in order to lower the combustion temperatures. This
electronic metering of exhaust gas is ten times faster than the vacuum-operated models as well as
an improved diagnostic capabilities.
CONNECTOR
Positioned at the top of the linear EGR assembly are 5 terminals.
^ A is the pulse width modulated negative signal from the control module.
^ B is the sensor ground.
^ C is the sensor output.
^ D is the +5 volts supply. E is the positive from ignition.
OPERATION
A 12 volt current which enters the valve through an electrical connector (terminal E) energizes the
solenoid (bobbin and coil) assembly (3). The 12 volt current then flows through the solenoid
assembly to the control module and creates an electromagnetic field. This field causes the
armature assembly (4,6) to be pulled upward, lifting the pintle (5) a variable amount off the base.
The exhaust gas then flows from the exhaust manifold through the orifice into the intake manifold.
The pintle position sensor (2,1-sensor cap) reads the height of the pintle, and the control module
closes the loop on a desired position versus the actual position read. This changes the pulse width
modulated command to the solenoid accordingly, until the actual pintle position equals the desired
pintle position.
The linear EGR valve is unique in that the control module continuously monitors the pintle height
and continuously corrects it in order to obtain accurate flow, making linear EGR a Closed Loop
system. When the solenoid is de-energized (the control module breaks the circuit), the pintle seals
against the orifice, blocking the exhaust flow to the intake manifold.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Exhaust Gas Recirculation > EGR
Valve > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5814
EGR Valve: Service and Repair
Linear EGR Valve
**THIS REPAIR PROCEDURE HAS BEEN UPDATED BY TSB 57-65-28**
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
NOTES ^
Do not try to disassemble the linear EGR valve. Service only as a complete assembly.
^ When installing Linear EGR Valves, take care to orientate the valve properly before installation. It
is possible to rotate the Linear EGR valve 18O°, and then install it on the intake manifold.
^ Linear EGR Valves improperly installed do not function as intended. Possible driveability
concerns include a rough idle and the setting of code DTC 1406 (Pintle Position Error).
^ Linear EGR Valves improperly installed may respond to high vacuum conditions (at idle) by
pulling the valve open, or high back pressure conditions by pushing the valve open.
^ When replacing or re-installing a LEGR valve, install the valve (with a new gasket) in the correct
orientation. A new insulated gasket for use with this valve has been released for production and
service.
^ The new gasket must be used whenever a LEGR valve is removed and reinstalled.
CAUTION: The Linear EGR valve is an electrical component. DO NOT soak in any liquid cleaner or
solvent because damage may result.
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the valve to flange attaching bolts. 3. Remove the
linear EGR valve. 4. Remove the flange gasket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new flange gasket 2. Install the linear EGR valve. 3. Install the Valve to flange bolts.
Tighten 3.1.
Tighten the bolts the first time to 10 Nm (89 lb. in.) each.
3.2. Tighten the bolts a final time to 25 Nm (18 lb. ft.) each.
4. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Fillpipe Restrictor > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
To prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck is equipped with restrictor and deflector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Crankcase Ventilation System - Revised Maintenance
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Technical Service Bulletins Crankcase Ventilation System Revised Maintenance
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 83-02-01
Date: September, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section OB - Corrected Crankcase Ventilation System Maintenance
Models: 1994-98 All Passenger Cars and Trucks
Some Service Manuals for the affected vehicles contain an error in Section OB - Maintenance and
Lubrication. The error is incorrect crankcase ventilation system maintenance recommendations.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Crankcase Ventilation System - Revised Maintenance > Page 5822
The chart that follows has the correct crankcase ventilation system maintenance
recommendations.
Owners Manual maintenance schedules for the above vehicles have correct crankcase ventilation
system maintenance recommendations.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5823
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Description and Operation
Crankcase Ventilation Valve Cross Section
EVAP System
DESCRIPTION
A crankcase ventilation system is used in order to provide a more complete scavenging of
crankcase vapors. The air cleaner supplies fresh air through a filter to the crankcase. The
crankcase mixes the fresh air with blow-by gases. This mixture then passes through a crankcase
ventilation valve into the intake manifold.
The primary control is through the crankcase ventilation valve (1), which meters the flow at a rate
depending on the manifold vacuum. In order to maintain an idle quality, the crankcase ventilation
valve restricts the flow when the intake manifold vacuum is high. If abnormal operating conditions
arise, the system is designed to allow the excessive amounts of blow-by gases to back flow
through the crankcase vent tube into the air cleaner in order to be consumed by normal
combustion.
The Evaporative Emission (EVAP) control system limits the fuel vapors from escaping into the
atmosphere. The EVAP transfers the fuel vapor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5824
from the sealed fuel tank to an activated carbon (charcoal) storage device (EVAP canister). The
EVAP canister stores the vapors until the engine is able to use the extra fuel vapor.
When the engine is able to use the extra fuel vapor, the intake air flow purges the fuel vapor from
the carbon element, and then the normal combustion process consumes the fuel vapor.
The system is required in order to detect the evaporative fuel system leaks as small as 0.040
between the fuel filler cap and the purge solenoid. The system can test the evaporative system
integrity by applying a vacuum signal (ported or manifold) to the fuel tank in order to create a small
vacuum.
OPERATION
The Control Module then monitors the ability of the system to maintain the vacuum. If the vacuum
remains for a specified period of time, then there are no evaporative leaks, and a PASS report is
sent to the control module. If there is a leak, the system either will not achieve a vacuum, or a
vacuum cannot be maintained. Usually a fault can only be detected after a cold start with a trip of
sufficient length and driving conditions to run the needed tests. The enhanced evaporative system
diagnostic conducts up to 8 specific sub-tests in order to detect the fault conditions. If the
diagnostic fails a sub-test, the Control Module stores a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) in order to
indicate the type of fault detected.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5825
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Testing and Inspection
RESULTS OF INCORRECT OPERATION
A plugged valve or hose may cause: Rough idle.
- Stalling or slow idle speed.
- Oil leakage.
- Oil in air cleaner.
- Sludge in engine.
A leaking Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) valve or hose will cause: Rough idle.
- Stalling.
- High idle speeds.
FUNCTIONAL CHECK
With these systems, any blow-by in excess of the system capacity (from a badly worn engine,
sustained heavy load, etc.) is exhausted into the air cleaner and is drawn into the engine. Proper
operation of the crankcase ventilation system is dependent upon a sealed engine. If oil sludging or
dilution is noted and the crankcase ventilation system is functioning properly, check the engine for
possible cause and correct to ensure that the system will function as intended. If an engine is idling
rough, check for a clogged crankcase ventilation valve, dirty vent filter, air cleaner element, or
plugged hose. Replace as required.
Use the following procedure:
1. Remove crankcase ventilation valve from the rocker cover. 2. Operate engine at idle. 3. Place
your thumb over the end of the valve to check for vacuum.
If there is NO vacuum at the valve, check: For plugged hoses.
- Manifold port.
- Crankcase ventilation valve.
4. Turn "OFF" the engine and remove crankcase ventilation valve. Shake the valve and listen for
the rattle of the check needle inside of the valve. If
it does NOT rattle, replace the valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Positive Crankcase Ventilation >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5826
Positive Crankcase Ventilation: Service and Repair
CAUTION: An engine can be damaged if it is operated without crankcase ventilation. Therefore, it
is important to perform the "Functional Check". Refer to System Diagnosis / Procedures. See:
Testing and Inspection
^ Replace crankcase ventilation components as diagnosis requires.
^ Periodically, inspect the hoses and clamps and replace any showing signs of deterioration.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Emission Control Systems > Relays and Modules - Emission
Control Systems > Air Injection Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations
Air Injection Pump Relay: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay center
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure > Diagnostic
Connector - Fuel Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Release >
System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Specifications > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Specifications Controlled Idle Speed
Under 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Over 8500 GVW
Transmission Gear Idle Speed IAC Counts [1] OPEN/CLOSED Loop [2]
Manual N 675 +/- 25 Varies CL
Automatic D 550 +/- 25 Varies CL
[1] On manual transmission vehicles the SCAN tool will display RDL in Neutral. Add 2 counts for
engines with less than 500 miles. Add 2 counts for every 1000 ft. above sea level.
[2] Let engine idle until proper fuel control status is reached (OPEN/CLOSED loop).
Note: Engine should be at operating temperature 92°C to 104° (196°F to 222°F).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Speed > System
Information > Adjustments > Controlled Idle Speed
Idle Speed: Adjustments Controlled Idle Speed
NOTE: There should be no Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s displayed. The idle air control system
has been checked.
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Block the drive wheels. 3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link
Connector (DLC) connector with the tool in the open mode. 4. Start the engine. 5. Bring the engine
to the normal operating temperature. 6. Check for the correct state of the Transmission Range (TR)
switch position on the scan tool. 7. Check the specifications for controlled idle speed and Idle Air
Control (IAC) valve pintle position (counts). Refer to Idle Air Control Valve /
Service and Repair. See: Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve/Service and Repair
8. If within specifications, the idle speed is being correctly controlled by the control module. 9. If not
within specifications, refer to Driveability Symptoms. Refer to System Diagnosis for testing
information. See: Computers and Control
Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Accelerator Pedal: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The accelerator pedal (3) through a cable (2) controls the throttle. There are no linkage
adjustments. Replace the accelerator control cable with an identical replacement part.
Check all linkages and cables in order to assure free movement with no rubbing, chafing, or
binding. The accelerator pedal must operate freely, without binding, between the full closed and the
Wide Open Throttle (WOT).
Observe the following, when performing service on the accelerator pedal:
- The mounting surface between the support and the dash panel must be free of insulation. The
carpet and padding in the pedal and tunnel area must be positioned to lay flat and be free of
wrinkles and bunches.
- Slip the accelerator control cable through the slot in the rod (4) before installing the retainer (1) in
the rod. Make sure it is seated properly. Use care in pressing the retainer into the hole, so the
cable is not kinked or damaged.
- The linkage must operate freely without binding between the closed throttle and the full throttle
position.
- Do not place the wire, hoses, cable, and other flexible components within 13 mm (0.521) of the
cable or rod, at any point in their travel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Accelerator Pedal >
Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 5848
Accelerator Pedal: Testing and Inspection
Check for correct cable routing, or binding. Correct as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Specifications
Air intake duct screw ...........................................................................................................................
........................................................ 2 Nm (18 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air
Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose > Component Information > Specifications > Page 5853
Air Cleaner Fresh Air Duct/Hose: Service and Repair
Air Intake Duct Retainer Bolt
Air Intake Duct
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the retainer. 2. Remove the screw. 3. Remove the air intake duct
Installation Procedure
1. Install the air intake duct. 2. Install the screw.
Tighten Tighten the screw 2 Nm (18 lb. in.).
3. Install the retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: Customer Interest Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5862
Disclaimer
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Air Filter Element: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-013B
Date: February 01, 2007
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission Shift, Engine Driveability Concerns or Service Engine Soon
(SES) Light On as a Result of the Use of an Excessively/Over-Oiled Aftermarket, Reusable Air
Filter
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2007 and Prior Saturn Models 2003-2007
HUMMER H2 2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-013A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The use of an excessively/over-oiled aftermarket, reusable air filter may result in:
Service Engine Soon (SES) light on
Transmission shift concerns, slipping and damaged clutch(es) or band(s)
Engine driveability concerns, poor acceleration from a stop, limited engine RPM range
The oil that is used on these air filter elements may be transferred onto the Mass Air Flow (MAF)
sensor causing contamination of the sensor. As a result, the Grams per Second (GPS) signal from
the MAF may be low and any or all of the concerns listed above may occur.
When servicing a vehicle with any of these concerns, be sure to check for the presence of an
aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter. The MAF, GPS reading should be compared
to a like vehicle with an OEM air box and filter under the same driving conditions to verify the
concern.
The use of an aftermarket reusable air filter DOES NOT void the vehicle's warranty.
If an aftermarket reusable air filter is used, technicians should inspect the MAF sensor element and
the air induction hose for contamination of oil prior to making warranty repairs.
Transmission or engine driveability concerns (related to the MAF sensor being contaminated with
oil) that are the result of the use of an aftermarket reusable, excessively/over-oiled air filter are not
considered to be warrantable repair items.
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Air Filter Element: >
04-07-30-013B > Feb > 07 > Engine, A/T - Shift/Driveability Concerns/MIL ON > Page 5868
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Air Cleaner Housing > Air Filter
Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5869
Air Filter Element: Testing and Inspection
The air cleaner restriction indicator is located on the intake duct between the air cleaner assembly
and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor.
If the area inside of the clear section is green, no air filter service is required. If the area inside the
clear section is orange and Change Air Filter appears, replace the air filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Element > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 5870
Air Filter Element: Service and Repair
Air Cleaner Element Holddown
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the hold down clips. 2. Remove the air cleaner cover. 3. Remove the filter. Hold the
duct and remove the filter by pulling and twisting the filter away from the duct. 4. Clean the air
cleaner housing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the filter.
- Install the new filter by pushing it all the way to the stops of the duct.
- Install the duct and filter in the air cleaner housing. Make sure that the duct fits properly into the
housing.
2. Install the air cleaner cover. 3. Connect the hold down clips. 4. Push the button on the top of the
indicator to reset it to the green (Clean) filter zone.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5876
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5877
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5878
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5880
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5901
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5902
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5903
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5904
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5905
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5906
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 5907
Mass Air Flow System
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5908
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
<--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 5909
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Diagnostic Connector - Fuel
Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fillpipe Restrictor >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fillpipe Restrictor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
To prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck is equipped with restrictor and deflector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada)
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 05-06-04-022G
Date: October 27, 2010
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Information and Available Brands (Deposits, Fuel
Economy, No Start, Power, Performance, Stall Concerns) - Canada ONLY
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Canada Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years and include an additional
gasoline brand as a TOP TIER source. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System). In the U.S., refer to the latest version of Corporate
Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047I.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by the Canadian General Standards Board (CGSB). Those
vehicles that have experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: 16,093 km (10,000 mi) with Minimum Additive recommended by the CGSB
Top Tier Fuel Availability
Chevron was the first to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in Canada. Shell became the first
national gasoline retailer to offer TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline across Canada. Petro-Canada
began offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline nationally as of October 1, 2006. Sunoco began
offering TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline in March of 2007. Esso began offering TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline in May of 2010.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5920
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
The following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards in all octane
grades :
Chevron Canada (markets in British Columbia and western Alberta)
- Shell Canada (nationally)
- Petro-Canada (nationally)
- Sunoco-Canada (Ontario)
- Esso-Canada (nationally)
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency and no
metallic additives. It meets new, voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive
companies that exceed the detergent recommendations of Canadian standards and does not
contain metallic additives, which can damage vehicle emission control components.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began in the U.S. and Canada on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have
already joined and introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not
all fuel marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will
appear on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda, Toyota, Volkswagen and Audi.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. In the U.S., government regulations require that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a
detergent additive. However, the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to
keep engines clean. In Canada, gasoline standards recommend adherence to U.S. detergency
requirements but do not require it. In fact, many brands of gasoline in Canada do not contain any
detergent additive. In order to meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of
detergent is needed than what is required or recommended, and no metallic additives are allowed.
Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency and the intentional addition of metallic additives is an
issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Clean engines help provide optimal
fuel economy and engine performance, and also provide reduced emissions. Also, the use of TOP
TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce deposit related concerns.
Who should use TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" recommended by Canadian standards. Those vehicles that have
experienced deposit related concerns may especially benefit from use of TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline. More information on TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline can be found at this website,
http://www.toptiergas.com/.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5921
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5922
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - 'TOP TIER' Detergent Gasoline Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-047I
Date: August 17, 2009
Subject: TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns) - U.S. Only
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (including Saturn) (U.S. Only) 2003-2010
HUMMER H2 (U.S. Only) 2006-2010 HUMMER H3 (U.S. Only) 2005-2009 Saab 9-7X (U.S. Only)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add model years and additional sources to the Top Tier
Fuel Retailers list. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-047H (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System). In Canada, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 05-06-04-022F.
A new class of fuel called TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is appearing at retail stations of some fuel
marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by six automotive companies. All
vehicles will benefit from using TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit related
concerns may especially benefit from the use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline.
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline
Intake valve: - 10,000 miles with Legal Minimum additive
Gasoline Brands That Currently Meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Standards
As of August 1, 2009, all grades of the following gasoline brands meet the TOP TIER Detergent
Gasoline Standards:
- Chevron
- Chevron-Canada
- QuikTrip
- Conoco
Phillips 66
- 76
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5923
- Shell
- Shell-Canada
- Entec Stations located in the greater Montgomery, Alabama area.
- MFA Oil Company located throughout Missouri.
- Kwik Trip, Inc. in Minnesota and Wisconsin and Kwik Star convenience stores in Iowa.
The Somerset Refinery, Inc. at Somerset Oil stations in Kentucky.
Aloha Petroleum
- Tri-Par Oil Company
- Turkey Hill Minit Markets
- Texaco
- Petro-Canada
- Sunoco-Canada
- Road Ranger located in Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Missouri, Ohio and Wisconsin
What is TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by six automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Where Can TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Be Purchased?
The TOP TIER program began on May 3, 2004 and many fuel marketers have joined the program
and have introduced TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, they will appear
on a list of brands that meet the TOP TIER standards.
Where Can I find the Latest Information on TOP TIER Fuel and Retailers?
On the web, please visit www.toptiergas.com for additional information and updated retailer lists.
Who developed TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by six automotive companies: Audi,
BMW, General Motors, Honda, Toyota and Volkswagen.
Why was TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline developed?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in
gasoline. The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However,
the requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to
meet TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is
required by the EPA. Also, TOP TIER was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to
differentiate their product.
Why did the six automotive companies join together to develop TOP TIER?
All six corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline?
TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5924
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Fuel - Top Tier Detergent Gasoline Information
Bulletin No.: 04-06-00-047
Date: June 24, 2004
ADVANCED SERVICE INFORMATION
Subject: Top Tier Detergent Gasoline (Deposits, Fuel Economy, No Start, Power, Performance,
Stall Concerns)
Models: 2005 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks (U.S. Only)
A new class of gasoline, called Top Tier Detergent Gasoline, will be appearing at retail stations of
some fuel marketers. This gasoline meets detergency standards developed by four automotive
companies. A description of the concept and benefits of Top Tier is provided in the following
question and answer section.
What is Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline is a new class of gasoline with enhanced detergency. It meets new,
voluntary deposit control standards developed by four automotive companies that exceed the
detergent requirements imposed by the EPA.
Who developed Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards were developed by four automotive companies: BMW,
General Motors, Honda and Toyota.
Why was Top Tier Detergent Gasoline developed?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline was developed to increase the level of detergent additive in gasoline.
The EPA requires that all gasoline sold in the U.S. contain a detergent additive. However, the
requirement is minimal and in many cases, is not sufficient to keep engines clean. In order to meet
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline standards, a higher level of detergent is needed than what is required
by the EPA. Also, Top Tier was developed to give fuel marketers the opportunity to differentiate
their product.
Why did the four automotive companies join together to develop Top Tier?
All four corporations recognized the benefits to both the vehicle and the consumer. Also, joining
together emphasized that low detergency is an issue of concern to several automotive companies.
What are the benefits of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help keep engines cleaner than gasoline containing the "Lowest
Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Clean engines help provide optimal fuel economy and
performance and reduced emissions. Also, use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline will help reduce
deposit related concerns.
Who should use Top Tier Detergent Gasoline?
All vehicles will benefit from using Top Tier Detergent Gasoline over gasoline containing the
"Lowest Additive Concentration" set by the EPA. Those vehicles that have experienced deposit
related concerns may especially benefit from use of Top Tier Detergent Gasoline.
Where can Top Tier Detergent Gasoline be purchased?
The Top Tier program began on May 3, 2004. Some fuel marketers have already joined and are
making plans to introduce Top Tier Detergent Gasoline. This is a voluntary program and not all fuel
marketers will offer this product. Once fuel marketers make public announcements, a list of all fuel
marketers meeting Top Tier standards will be made available. For now, look for the "Top Tier"
designation at the gas pump.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5925
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Fuel Fill Allowance Changes
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No: 52-05-11
Date: September, 1995
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: 1996 Fuel Fill Allowance Changes
Models: 1996 Chevrolet/Geo Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention: Dealer Service Manager and Warranty Administrator
For the beginning of the 1996 model year, the General Motors fuel fill reimbursement rate for
self-serve fuel is listed below. Please refer to the chart included with this bulletin for individual
passenger car and truck fuel prices.
Regular, Unleaded Gasoline $1.10 per gallon Premium, Unleaded Gasoline $1.30 per gallon Diesel
Fuel $1.20 per gallon
Dealer fuel fill credit is triggered by the retail delivery report. All passenger cars and light-duty
trucks delivered retail are eligible for this credit, except chassis cab, G-Cutaway, high cube
P-models.
Also, any unit showing a "retail amenities delete" notation on the invoice.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5926
The chart shows the AVERAGE AMOUNT OF FUEL ADDED BY DEALER, PER UNIT FUEL
PRICE, and the PROPOSED DEALER CREDIT a dealer should receive for each 1996 vehicle sold
retail. Non-eligible models are shown with $0.00 amount in the PROPOSED DEALER CREDIT
column.
Eligible past model units delivered from inventory will receive credit based on their proper fuel
capacity multiplied by the fuel price in effect at the time of delivery.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Fuel System - TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline (Canada) > Page 5927
Fuel: Technical Service Bulletins Warranty - Fuel Expense and Fuel Price Change
File In Section: Warranty Administration
Bulletin No: 52-05-10
Date: September, 1995
WARRANTY ADMINISTRATION
Subject: 1996 G.S.A. Fuel Expense / Fuel Price Change
Models: 1996 Chevrolet / Geo Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks
Attention: Dealer Service Manager/Warranty Administrator
The purpose of this bulletin is to advise retail/wholesale personnel of the fuel expense allowed for
G.S.A. units. Please refer to the chart listing individual passenger car and light truck "DEALER
CREDIT."
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Fuel Specifications/Alcohol In Fuel
Fuel: Specifications Fuel Specifications/Alcohol In Fuel
GASOLINE
All engines are designed to use unleaded fuel only. Unleaded fuel must be used for proper
emission control system operation. It's use will also minimize spark plug fouling and extend engine
oil life. Using leaded fuel can damage the emission control system and could result in loss of
emission warranty coverage. The fuel should meet specification ASTM D4814 for the U.s. or CGSB
3.5-M87 for Canada.
This engine is designed to use unleaded fuel with a minimum U(R+M) / 2e (pump) octane number
of 87, where; R=research octane number, and M=motor octane number.
METHYL TERTIARY-BUTYL ETHER (MTBE)
Methyl tertiary-butyl ether (MTBE) fuel may be used, providing there is no more than 15% (MTBE)
by volume.
ETHANOL
Ethanol (ethyl) or grain alcohol fuel may be used, providing that there is no more than 10% ethanol
alcohol by volume.
METHANOL
Methanol (methyl) or wood alcohol fuels may be used, providing there is no more than 5% of
methanol by volume.
NOTICE: Do not use fuel that contains more than 5% methanol. Use of a fuel (gasohol) that
contains more than 5% of methanol can corrode metal fuel system components and damage
plastic and rubber parts.
- Do not spill fuel containing alcohol on the vehicle. Alcohol can cause damage to the paint finish
and trim.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Fuel Specifications/Alcohol In Fuel > Page 5930
Fuel: Specifications Fuel (Alcohol and Gasoline) Types
General Motors customers will be potentially exposed to a variety of different fuel types. Besides
the conventional gasoline available, new types such as Reformulated Gasoline (RFG), oxygenated
gasoline, and starting in 1996, California Phase 2 RFG. Reformulated Gasoline (RFG) is blended
to burn more cleanly and not to evaporate as readily. RFG must contain a minimum of 2 percent
oxygen, which is usually achieved with ethanol or EPA-approved ethers such as methyl
tertiary-butyl ether (MTBE). This type of fuel is required by the Clean Air Act in the nine worst
ozone non-attainment areas of the country, and may also be required in other areas designated
ozone non-attainment, at the option of the states. RFG is intended to produce approximately 15
percent less pollution than conventional gasoline. Using RFG should reduce the total health risk to
the public by reducing exposure to ozone and air toxins. General Motors supports the use of RFG
as a cost effective means of providing air quality benefits.
Oxygenated gasolines are prevalent in the wintertime for Carbon Monoxide (CO) non-attainment
areas. These fuels contain oxygen components similar to RFG. Approximately 50 percent of the
fuel sold in the U.s. in the wintertime contains an oxygenate component.
Vehicle fuel economy may be slightly reduced, if at all, by the use of gasoline containing
oxygenates. Fuel economy is most affected by engine and vehicle type, driving habits, weather
conditions, and vehicle maintenance.
Properly blended RFG, oxygenated gasoline, and California Phase 2 RFG will have no adverse
effect on vehicle performance or to the durability of engine and fuel system components. In fact,
the General Motors Owner's Manual fuel statements have consistently permitted the use of
properly blended fuels containing up to 10 percent ethanol (since 1980) and up to 15 percent
methyl tertiary-butyl ether (MTBE) for current and all past model year vehicles. These statements
continue to be valid. The use of oxygenate-containing fuels will not invalidate the GM vehicle
warranty.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 5931
Fuel: Testing and Inspection
PROCEDURE
Alcohol concentrations greater than 10% in fuel can be detrimental to fuel system components and
may cause driveability problems such as hesitation, lack of power, stall, no start, etc.
The problems may be due to fuel system corrosion and subsequent fuel filter plugging,
deterioration of rubber components, and/or air4tiel mixture leaning. Various types and
concentrations of alcohol are used in commercial fuel. Some alcohol is more detrimental to fuel
system components than others. If an excessive amount of alcohol in the fuel is suspected as the
cause of a driveability condition, the following procedure may be used to detect the presence of
alcohol in the fuel.
TESTING PROCEDURE
The fuel sample should be drawn from the bottom of the tank so that any water present in the tank
will be detected. The sample should be bright and clear. If the sample appears cloudy, or
contaminated with water (as indicated by a water layer at the bottom of
the sample), this procedure should not be used, and the fuel system should be cleaned.
1. Using a 100 ml specified cylinder with 1 ml graduation marks, fill the cylinder with fuel to the 90
ml mark.
2. Add 10 ml of water in order to bring the total fluid volume to 100 ml and install a stopper.
3. Shake the cylinder vigorously for 10 to 15 seconds.
4. Carefully loosen the stopper in order to release the pressure.
5. Re-install the stopper and shake the cylinder vigorously again for 10 to 15 seconds.
6. Put the cylinder on a level surface for approximately 5 minutes in order to allow adequate liquid
separation.
If alcohol is present in the fuel, the volume of the lower layer (which would now contain both alcohol
and water) will be greater than 10 ml. For example, if the volume of the lower layer is increased to
15 ml, this indicates at least 5 percent alcohol in the fuel. The actual amount of alcohol may be
somewhat greater because this procedure does not extract all of the alcohol from the fuel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Filler Cap: Description and Operation
The fuel tank filler neck is equipped with a screw type cap. The threaded part of the cap requires
several turns counter-clockwise to remove. The long threaded area is designed to allow any
remaining fuel tank pressure to escape during the cap removal operation. A built-in rachet type
torque limiting device prevents over-tightening. To install, turn the cap clockwise until a clicking
noise is heard. This signals that the correct torque has been reached and the cap is fully seated.
NOTICE: If a fuel filler cap requires replacement, only a cap with the same features should be
used. Failure to use the correct cap can result in a serious malfunction of the system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filler Cap > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 5935
Fuel Filler Cap: Service and Repair
If a fuel tank filler cap requires replacement, use only a cap with the same features. Failure to use
the correct cap can result in a malfunctioning of the evaporative system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Filter > Fuel Pressure
Release > System Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Release: Service and Repair
TOOLS REQUIRED
- J 34730 Fuel Pressure Gauge
WARNING: Relieve the fuel system pressure before servicing fuel system components In order to
reduce the risk of fire and personal Injury. After relieving the system pressure, a small amount of
fuel may be released when servicing the fuel lines or connections. In order to reduce the chance of
personal Injury, cover the regulator and the fuel line fittings with a shop towel before disconnecting.
This will catch any fuel that may leak out. Place the towel In an approved container when the
disconnection Is complete.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable in order to avoid possible fuel discharge if an accidental
attempt is made to start the engine. 2. Loosen the fuel filler cap in order to relieve the tank vapor
pressure. 3. Connect the gauge J 34730-1A or the equivalent to the fuel pressure connection. 4.
Wrap a shop towel around the fitting while connecting the gauge in order to avoid spillage. 5. Install
the bleed hose into an approved container and open valve in order to bleed the system pressure.
The fuel connections are now safe for
servicing.
6. Drain any fuel remaining in gauge into an approved container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Injector: Recalls Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed >
Page 5948
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed >
Page 5949
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed >
Page 5950
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed >
Page 5951
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-06-04-003B Date: 030201
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-003B
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean
Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models: 1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P
Models 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L
Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31) Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is
for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat
overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be
illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick
open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire
condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet
valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a
correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for
this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the
customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will
back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and
seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI
Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice:
Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body
will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different
between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage
could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit
can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the
option of which fix to pursue.
Important:
"GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit
with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with
the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi)
source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories
provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech
2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and
90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is
very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine
Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5957
Parts Information
Cleaning Procedure Parts
CSFI to MFI Conversion Parts
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Important:
Some California vehicles may be covered by Special Policy 99066E if built with California
Emissions RPO YF5. If the vehicle is covered by the special policy, then that warranty information
should be used.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use information contained in Special Policy 99066E.
Information
This procedure should be performed before any attempt to convert the fuel system to MFI.
S/T and C/K Truck
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
2. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set
aside.
3. Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5958
6. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
7. Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
8. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
9. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
10. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer,
and spacer in the metering body.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5959
11. Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure
that the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5960
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
16. Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box,
and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to
the metering body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure
required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to
performing this procedure.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verity
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. It an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat Steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5961
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
29. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
30. Install the air inlet bonnet 10 the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
31. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.
32. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
33. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
34. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
35. Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
36. Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12
37. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
38. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
39. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
40. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
41. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
42. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
43. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
44. Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
45. Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
46. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
47. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5962
48. Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.
49. Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
50. Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5963
51. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the 0-rings (6 and 8),
washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
52. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
53. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt (4). Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
54. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
55. Install the bonnet and air inlet tube to the throttle body.
56. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the inlet duct.
57. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5 (7) to the distributor cap.
58. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
59. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
60. Start the vehicle and check for fuel leaks.
61. Using the Tech 2(R) scan tool, check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
62. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
63. Advise the customer to change brands of fuel.
M/L, G Van and P Truck
1. Loosen the fuel tank filler cap to relieve fuel tank vapor pressure.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove ignition wires 1 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5964
4. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the fuel pipe bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
6. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel pipe. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
7. Disconnect the fuel pipes (3) at the rear of intake manifold (1).
8. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
9. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the 0-rings, washer, and
spacer in the metering body.
10. Remove the electrical connector from metering body.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5965
11. Install J 44466-12 (2) and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel metering body and tighten. Make sure that
the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install J 44466-01 (1) to the vehicle fuel lines.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5966
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank
must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose to the J 44466-12.
16. Install J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J
39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to metering
body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat steps 19, 20, and 21, for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off the pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off pressure at J 44466-10.
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 hose from the J 44466-12 and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-210, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
29. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5967
30. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve (3) at the bottom of the canister is closed.
31. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
32. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
33. Suspend the J 35800-A in a convenient location.
34. Connect the hose from the J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
35. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
36. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
37. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
38. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
39. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
40. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
41. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
42. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
43. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
44. Bleed the residual pressure from J 44466-12.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5968
45. Remove the J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
46. Remove the J 44466-01 (1) from the vehicle fuel lines.
47. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure the all of the 0-rings (6 and 8), washers
(7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5969
48. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
49. Inspect the 0-rings at the fuel pipe-to-vehicle lines (1). Replace as necessary.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel line nuts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
50. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt. Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
51. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
52. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
53. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
54. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
55. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
56. Use the Tech 2(R) Scan Tool to check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
57. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
58. Install the engine cover.
59. Advise customer to change brands of fuel.
Central SFI to MFI Conversion Instructions
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multiport Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
Important:
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5970
return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with a MFI unit. If the vehicle is out
of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
V6 Engines
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket as shown in Figure 1.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 2. Tubes must be oriented away
from the fuel pressure regulator end of the fuel meter body.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5971
Notice:
The number 3 Fuel Tube must be positioned behind the number 1 Fuel Tube to eliminate
interference with the Upper Intake Manifold plenum when installed. See Figure 2.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Make sure that the number three Fuel Tube is routed in
behind number 1 and 5 Fuel Tubes as shown in Figure 2. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body
locking it into the bracket.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
5. Insert the number 3 injector into the correct Injector hole in the Lower Intake Manifold first. Install
the number 5 injector next and then number 1. This sequence must be followed correctly to prevent
interference of the Fuel Tubes. Injectors 2, 4, and 6 are then installed.
6. Insure that the electrical connectors of the injectors are positioned so that they do not interfere
with each other and are pointing towards the center of the Intake Manifold. If necessary, rotate the
electrical connectors inboard.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
7. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (orange in color) with clean engine oil.
8. Inspect the Upper Intake Manifold plenum gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper
Intake Manifold plenum following the procedures outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them into the Fuel
Meter Body.
Make sure that the Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5972
V8 Engines
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multipoint Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 3. Fuel tubes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are
oriented toward the fuel inlet side of the fuel meter body. Fuel tubes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are oriented
toward the fuel pressure regulator side if the fuel meter body.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body until the tabs
snap into the bracket locking the fuel meter body in place.
5. Orient the fuel tubes to coincide with their corresponding cylinder. The fuel tubes are numbered
on the side of the fuel meter body and the corresponding cylinder number is cast in the intake
manifold.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
6. Insert the fuel tubes into their corresponding holes in the intake manifold. Install tubes for
cylinders 1, 3, 6 and 8 making sure that the injector electrical connectors are facing in toward the
center of the manifold.
7. Insert fuel tubes for cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 in the same manner.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough
Idle on Start-Up > Page 5973
Important:
When installing fuel tubes, it is important that the tubes are oriented properly to provide minimal
interference when installing the upper intake manifold plenum. Intake holes for cylinders 2, 4, 5,
and 7 are closer to the fuel meter body. It is necessary to cross tube 5 over tube 7 and tube 4 over
tube 2 as shown in Figure 4.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
8. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (blue in color) with clean engine oil.
9. Inspect Upper Intake Manifold Gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper Intake
Manifold plenum following the procedures in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them in the of the
Fuel Meter Body.
Make sure that Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 04-06-04-051B > Jan > 06 >
Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-051B
Date: January 04, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Maintenance Cleaning of Fuel Injectors
Models: 2006 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years and update the name and part
number of GM Fuel System Treatment. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-051A
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to
support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not
endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance
procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM
driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variation in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance
currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM Fuel
System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco(R), use P/N 88861013) (in Canada,
P/N 88861012), added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 >
Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 >
Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 5983
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 >
Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 5984
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 >
Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 5985
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 >
Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 5986
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 >
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-06-04-003B Date: 030201
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-003B
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean
Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models: 1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P
Models 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L
Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31) Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is
for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat
overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be
illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick
open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire
condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet
valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a
correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for
this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the
customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will
back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and
seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI
Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice:
Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body
will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different
between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage
could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit
can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the
option of which fix to pursue.
Important:
"GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit
with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with
the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi)
source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories
provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech
2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and
90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is
very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine
Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 >
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5991
Parts Information
Cleaning Procedure Parts
CSFI to MFI Conversion Parts
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Important:
Some California vehicles may be covered by Special Policy 99066E if built with California
Emissions RPO YF5. If the vehicle is covered by the special policy, then that warranty information
should be used.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use information contained in Special Policy 99066E.
Information
This procedure should be performed before any attempt to convert the fuel system to MFI.
S/T and C/K Truck
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
2. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set
aside.
3. Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5992
6. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
7. Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
8. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
9. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
10. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer,
and spacer in the metering body.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5993
11. Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure
that the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5994
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
16. Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box,
and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to
the metering body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure
required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to
performing this procedure.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verity
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. It an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat Steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5995
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
29. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
30. Install the air inlet bonnet 10 the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
31. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.
32. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
33. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
34. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
35. Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
36. Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12
37. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
38. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
39. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
40. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
41. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
42. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
43. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
44. Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
45. Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
46. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
47. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5996
48. Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.
49. Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
50. Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5997
51. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the 0-rings (6 and 8),
washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
52. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
53. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt (4). Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
54. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
55. Install the bonnet and air inlet tube to the throttle body.
56. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the inlet duct.
57. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5 (7) to the distributor cap.
58. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
59. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
60. Start the vehicle and check for fuel leaks.
61. Using the Tech 2(R) scan tool, check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
62. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
63. Advise the customer to change brands of fuel.
M/L, G Van and P Truck
1. Loosen the fuel tank filler cap to relieve fuel tank vapor pressure.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove ignition wires 1 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5998
4. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the fuel pipe bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
6. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel pipe. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
7. Disconnect the fuel pipes (3) at the rear of intake manifold (1).
8. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
9. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the 0-rings, washer, and
spacer in the metering body.
10. Remove the electrical connector from metering body.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 5999
11. Install J 44466-12 (2) and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel metering body and tighten. Make sure that
the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install J 44466-01 (1) to the vehicle fuel lines.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6000
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank
must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose to the J 44466-12.
16. Install J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J
39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to metering
body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat steps 19, 20, and 21, for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off the pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off pressure at J 44466-10.
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 hose from the J 44466-12 and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-210, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
29. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 >
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6001
30. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve (3) at the bottom of the canister is closed.
31. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
32. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
33. Suspend the J 35800-A in a convenient location.
34. Connect the hose from the J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
35. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
36. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
37. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
38. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
39. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
40. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
41. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
42. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
43. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
44. Bleed the residual pressure from J 44466-12.
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 >
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6002
45. Remove the J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
46. Remove the J 44466-01 (1) from the vehicle fuel lines.
47. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure the all of the 0-rings (6 and 8), washers
(7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6003
48. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
49. Inspect the 0-rings at the fuel pipe-to-vehicle lines (1). Replace as necessary.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel line nuts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
50. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt. Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
51. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
52. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
53. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
54. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
55. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
56. Use the Tech 2(R) Scan Tool to check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
57. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
58. Install the engine cover.
59. Advise customer to change brands of fuel.
Central SFI to MFI Conversion Instructions
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multiport Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
Important:
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6004
return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with a MFI unit. If the vehicle is out
of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
V6 Engines
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket as shown in Figure 1.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 2. Tubes must be oriented away
from the fuel pressure regulator end of the fuel meter body.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6005
Notice:
The number 3 Fuel Tube must be positioned behind the number 1 Fuel Tube to eliminate
interference with the Upper Intake Manifold plenum when installed. See Figure 2.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Make sure that the number three Fuel Tube is routed in
behind number 1 and 5 Fuel Tubes as shown in Figure 2. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body
locking it into the bracket.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
5. Insert the number 3 injector into the correct Injector hole in the Lower Intake Manifold first. Install
the number 5 injector next and then number 1. This sequence must be followed correctly to prevent
interference of the Fuel Tubes. Injectors 2, 4, and 6 are then installed.
6. Insure that the electrical connectors of the injectors are positioned so that they do not interfere
with each other and are pointing towards the center of the Intake Manifold. If necessary, rotate the
electrical connectors inboard.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
7. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (orange in color) with clean engine oil.
8. Inspect the Upper Intake Manifold plenum gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper
Intake Manifold plenum following the procedures outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them into the Fuel
Meter Body.
Make sure that the Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6006
V8 Engines
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multipoint Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 3. Fuel tubes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are
oriented toward the fuel inlet side of the fuel meter body. Fuel tubes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are oriented
toward the fuel pressure regulator side if the fuel meter body.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body until the tabs
snap into the bracket locking the fuel meter body in place.
5. Orient the fuel tubes to coincide with their corresponding cylinder. The fuel tubes are numbered
on the side of the fuel meter body and the corresponding cylinder number is cast in the intake
manifold.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
6. Insert the fuel tubes into their corresponding holes in the intake manifold. Install tubes for
cylinders 1, 3, 6 and 8 making sure that the injector electrical connectors are facing in toward the
center of the manifold.
7. Insert fuel tubes for cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 in the same manner.
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Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6007
Important:
When installing fuel tubes, it is important that the tubes are oriented properly to provide minimal
interference when installing the upper intake manifold plenum. Intake holes for cylinders 2, 4, 5,
and 7 are closer to the fuel meter body. It is necessary to cross tube 5 over tube 7 and tube 4 over
tube 2 as shown in Figure 4.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
8. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (blue in color) with clean engine oil.
9. Inspect Upper Intake Manifold Gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper Intake
Manifold plenum following the procedures in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them in the of the
Fuel Meter Body.
Make sure that Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-006 > Feb > 99 >
Fuel - Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel - Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning
File In Section: 06 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-006
Date: February, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning Procedure
Models: 1999 Cadillac Escalade 1996-99 Chevrolet, GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P Models 1996-99
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINs X, W, M, R - RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
and All Transmission Types
Some technicians, when servicing 1996 and newer Truck CSFI (Central Sequential Fuel Injection)
fuel systems (ref. Corporate Bulletin 87-65-07A), may be using an incorrect solvent when
attempting to clean CSFI poppet valves.
Important:
The ONLY solvent that will have any effect on the deposits occurring on poppet valves is: "PORT
FUEL INJECTOR GASOLINE DETERGENT" (P/N 12345104) (IN CANADA USE P/N 12345515).
The use of Goodwrench "Fuel Injector Cleaner" (P/N 12346291), or any other "Fuel Injector
Cleaner" is completely non-effective, and not appropriate for this concern.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel
System - Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Injection Balance Test Procedure
Revised
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-63-16
Date: February, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Injector Balance Test Procedure
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7, 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel
System - Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6016
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel
System - Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6017
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel
System - Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6018
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel
System - Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6019
This bulletin is being issued to inform technicians of a revision to the Injector Balance Test. This
revised procedure will help the technician to use the Injector Balance Test with greater clarity and
accuracy. Please use this revised procedure of the Injector Balance Test for the following model
years:
^ 1996-97 S/T Truck V-6
^ 1996-97 M/L Van V-6
^ 1996-97 G Van, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 C/K Truck, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 P Truck, V-6, V-8
Technicians diagnosing vehicles with misfire DTCs (P0300-P0308) must perform the Injector Coil
Test and the Injector Balance Test prior to injector replacement.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 04-06-04-051B > Jan > 06 > Fuel
System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Fuel Injector Maintenance Cleaning
Bulletin No.: 04-06-04-051B
Date: January 04, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Maintenance Cleaning of Fuel Injectors
Models: 2006 and Prior All General Motors Passenger Cars and Trucks 2003-2006 HUMMER H2
2006 HUMMER H3
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years and update the name and part
number of GM Fuel System Treatment. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 04-06-04-051A
(Section 06 - Engine/Propulsion System).
General Motors is aware that some companies are marketing tools, equipment and programs to
support fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance procedure. General Motors does not
endorse, support or acknowledge the need for fuel injector cleaning as a preventative maintenance
procedure. Fuel injector cleaning is approved only when performed as directed by a published GM
driveability or DTC diagnostic service procedure.
Due to variation in fuel quality in different areas of the country, the only preventative maintenance
currently endorsed by GM regarding its gasoline engine fuel systems is the addition of GM Fuel
System Treatment PLUS, P/N 88861011 (for U.S. ACDelco(R), use P/N 88861013) (in Canada,
P/N 88861012), added to a tank of fuel at each oil change. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
03-06-04-030A for proper cleaning instructions.
Disclaimer
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
Technical Service Bulletin # 00-06-04-003B Date: 030201
Fuel System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-003B
Date: February, 2003
TECHNICAL
Subject: Rough Idle After Start, And/Or A Service Engine Soon (SES) Light (Unstick And Clean
Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI) Poppet Valves or Convert to MFI)
Models: 1995-2002 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-2002 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P
Models 1996-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L
Engine (VINS W, X, M, R - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31) Except 2002 VIN X - RPO LU3 Models
This bulletin is being revised to update the Warranty Information. Please discard previous copies of
Corporate Bulletin Number 00-06-04-003B with warranty chart (Section 06 - Engine). This copy is
for Dealers in the state of CALIFORNIA ONLY.
Condition
Some customers may comment on rough idle after start-up, especially if the vehicle has sat
overnight. These symptoms may be intermittent. The Service Engine Soon (SES) light may also be
illuminated. Current misfire or history misfire codes may be detected with the Tech 2 scan tool.
Cause
A deposit build-up on the CSFI poppet valve ball and/or seat may cause the poppet ball to stick
open or closed. In either case, the specific cylinder will be mis-fueled, resulting in a cylinder mis-fire
condition.
Correction
A new injector unsticking and cleaning process has proven to be effective in restoring poppet
valves to an "as new" condition. CSFI injector replacement should NOT be considered as a
correction for this customer concern.
Check the vehicle history to determine if the vehicle is returning for a second fuel system repair for
this condition. If the fuel system has been repaired for this condition previously, then inform the
customer that an alternate fix is available. A new MFI fuel system has been developed that will
back service the CSFI fuel system. The MFI fuel system eliminates the CSFI poppet valve ball and
seat. The CSFI fuel system will need to be replaced as a unit. Refer to Central SFI to MFI
Conversion instructions in this bulletin.
Notice:
Individual CSFI injectors can not be replaced with MFI injectors. The entire CSFI fuel meter body
will need to be replaced. The bracket used to retain the injectors in the fuel meter body is different
between the CSFI and MFI unit. The unit may not seal if you mix injectors. Severe engine damage
could result.
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit
can be replaced with an MFI unit. If the vehicle is out of warranty, the customer should be given the
option of which fix to pursue.
Important:
"GM of Canada" dealers require District Service Manager approval prior to replacing the CSFI unit
with a MFI unit under warranty.
The first step of this process is to use the J 41413 Evap Pressure/Purge Station, in conjunction with
the J 44466-10 pressure regulator/hose assembly, to provide the required high pressure (150 psi)
source to perform the unsticking procedure. The J 39021 fuel injector tester and accessories
provide the means to "energize" the injector. Some later model-year vehicles may utilize the Tech
2(R) to "energize" the injectors.
The second step of this process is to run the engine on a solution of 10% Top Engine Cleaner and
90% gasoline. This will effectively clean any deposits from the ball and seats of the poppets. It is
very important that the engine fuel system is separated from the vehicle fuel system. Top Engine
Cleaner may have detrimental effects on the fuel pump.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6029
Parts Information
Cleaning Procedure Parts
CSFI to MFI Conversion Parts
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Important:
Some California vehicles may be covered by Special Policy 99066E if built with California
Emissions RPO YF5. If the vehicle is covered by the special policy, then that warranty information
should be used.
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use information contained in Special Policy 99066E.
Information
This procedure should be performed before any attempt to convert the fuel system to MFI.
S/T and C/K Truck
1. Loosen the fuel filler cap to relieve vapor pressure in the fuel tank.
2. Remove the Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set
aside.
3. Remove the bonnet and inlet tube from the throttle body.
4. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the electrical connector from the CSFI fuel metering body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6030
6. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
7. Remove the fuel line bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
8. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel line. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
9. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
10. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the O-rings, washer,
and spacer in the metering body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6031
11. Install the J 44466-12 (2) and the J 44466-13 (1) to the metering body and tighten. Make sure
that the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install the J 44466-11 (4), clamp (2), and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel pipe and tighten.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6032
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose (1) to the J 44466-12 (3).
16. Install the J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box,
and J 39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter (1) or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to
the metering body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system. The minimum pressure
required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank (3) must be refilled prior to
performing this procedure.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verity
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. It an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat Steps 19, 20 and 21 for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off the pressure at the J 44466-10.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6033
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 (5) from the J 44466-12, and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-302, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
29. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
30. Install the air inlet bonnet 10 the throttle body, tighten the wing-nut.
31. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the air inlet tube.
32. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve at the bottom of the canister (3) is closed.
33. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
34. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
35. Suspend J 35800-A from a convenient underhood location.
36. Connect the hose from J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12
37. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
38. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
39. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
40. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
41. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
42. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
43. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
44. Remove the PCV clean air tube from the air inlet tube and set aside.
45. Remove the bonnet from the throttle body, and set aside.
46. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
47. Remove the brake booster vacuum hose and connector from the intake manifold.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6034
48. Bleed the residual pressure from the J 44466-12.
49. Remove J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
50. Remove J 44466-13 (1), clamp (2), and J 44466-11 (4), from the fuel pipe (3).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6035
51. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure that all of the 0-rings (6 and 8),
washers (7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
52. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
53. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt (4). Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
54. Install the brake booster vacuum hose and connector to the intake manifold.
55. Install the bonnet and air inlet tube to the throttle body.
56. Install the PCV fresh air tube to the inlet duct.
57. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5 (7) to the distributor cap.
58. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
59. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
60. Start the vehicle and check for fuel leaks.
61. Using the Tech 2(R) scan tool, check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
62. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
63. Advise the customer to change brands of fuel.
M/L, G Van and P Truck
1. Loosen the fuel tank filler cap to relieve fuel tank vapor pressure.
2. Remove the engine cover.
3. Remove ignition wires 1 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6036
4. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
5. Remove the fuel pipe bolt (4) at the rear of the intake manifold.
6. Relieve the fuel system pressure at the service fitting on the fuel pipe. Use a shop towel to
contain any fuel that may exit the service fitting.
7. Disconnect the fuel pipes (3) at the rear of intake manifold (1).
8. Remove the nuts (1) and clamp (2) from the fuel pipe.
9. Remove the fuel pipes from the metering body. Be careful not to disturb the 0-rings, washer, and
spacer in the metering body.
10. Remove the electrical connector from metering body.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6037
11. Install J 44466-12 (2) and J 44466-13 (1) to the fuel metering body and tighten. Make sure that
the fuel pipe 0-rings, washer, and spacers are present and in their proper position.
12. Install J 44466-01 (1) to the vehicle fuel lines.
13. Obtain the J 41413, close the valve (2) on the tank, and remove the regulator assembly.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6038
14. Install the J 44466-10 (5) to the J 41413 tank (3). The J 44466-10 regulator is preset to 150 psi.
The minimum pressure required on the gauge (6) is 150 psi. If 150 psi is not obtained, the tank
must be refilled prior to performing this procedure.
15. Connect the J 44466-10 hose to the J 44466-12.
16. Install J 39021 Injector/Coil Balance Tester, the J 39021-210 Injector Tester Adapter Box, and J
39021-301 V6 Fuel Injector Test Adapter or J 39021-302 V8 Fuel Injector Test Adapter to metering
body electrical connector.
17. Adjust the amperage selector switch on J 39021 to 0.5 amps.
18. Open the valve (2) on the tank (3).
19. Open the valve (4) on the J 44466-10 to pressurize the fuel system.
20. Close the valve (4) on the J 44466-10.
21. Energize one injector using the J 39021. Observe a pressure drop on the gauge (6) and verify
the injector/poppet valve operation. An injector/poppet that is "stuck" and not operational will have
no pressure drop on the gauge. If an injector remains "stuck", repeat the procedure multiple times
(as required) until the injector is operational.
22. Repeat steps 19, 20, and 21, for each individual injector to verify that all injector/poppet valve
assemblies are "unstuck" and functional.
23. Shut off the pressure valve (2) on the tank (3) of the J 41413.
24. Bleed off pressure at J 44466-10.
25. Disconnect and remove the J 44466-10 hose from the J 44466-12 and the J 41413.
26. Remove the J 39021-301 or J 39021-210, J 39021-210, and J 39021 from the metering body.
27. Install the vehicle electrical connector to the metering body.
28. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
29. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6039
30. Obtain J 35800-A (2). Make sure the valve (3) at the bottom of the canister is closed.
31. Remove the canister top and add 24 ml (0.8 fl. oz.) Top Engine Cleaner, P/N 1050002 (Canada
P/N 992872), to the canister.
32. Fill the remainder of the canister with regular unleaded gasoline and install the canister top.
33. Suspend the J 35800-A in a convenient location.
34. Connect the hose from the J 35800-A to the service port on the J 44466-12.
35. Open the valve (3) at the bottom of J 35800-A.
36. Connect a "shop air" source to the fitting at the top of J 35800-A and adjust the regulator (1) to
75 psi.
37. Start the vehicle. It may be necessary to re-adjust the J 35800-A pressure regulator to maintain
75 psi.
38. Let the vehicle run at idle until the canister is empty and the vehicle stalls.
39. Remove the shop air supply from J 35800-A.
40. Depressurize the J 35800-A.
41. Disconnect the J 35800-A hose from the J 44466-12.
42. Remove the vacuum brake booster hose and connector from the intake manifold.
43. Remove ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 from the distributor cap.
44. Bleed the residual pressure from J 44466-12.
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6040
45. Remove the J 44466-13 (1) and J 44466-12 (2) from the metering body.
46. Remove the J 44466-01 (1) from the vehicle fuel lines.
47. Install the fuel pipe (3) to the metering body. Make sure the all of the 0-rings (6 and 8), washers
(7), and spacers (5) are present and in their proper position.
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System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6041
48. Install the clamp (2) and nuts (1).
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 3 N.m (27 lb in).
49. Inspect the 0-rings at the fuel pipe-to-vehicle lines (1). Replace as necessary.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel line nuts to 30 N.m (22 lb ft).
50. Apply threadlock, P/N 12345382, or equivalent to the threads of the fuel pipe bolt. Install the
bolt.
Tighten
Tighten the fuel pipe bolt to 6 N.m (53 lb in).
51. Install ignition wires 1, 3, 5, and 7 to the distributor cap.
52. Install the vacuum brake booster hose and connector to the intake manifold.
53. Add one (1) ounce of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner, P/N 12345104 (Canada P/N 10953467), to the
vehicle fuel tank for each gallon of gasoline estimated to be in the tank. Instruct the customer to
add the remainder of the bottle of Port Fuel Injector Cleaner to the vehicle fuel tank at the next
fill-up. Further recommend that Port Fuel Injector Cleaner be added to the fuel tank every 3000
miles (4800 km) particularly if the vehicle is not started and driven every day. Inform the customer
that the Port Fuel Injector Cleaner is not to be used at every fill up but may be reapplied every 3000
miles (4800 km).
54. Tighten the fuel tank filler cap.
55. Start the engine and check for fuel leaks.
56. Use the Tech 2(R) Scan Tool to check for any stored Powertrain DTC codes. Clear codes as
required.
57. Disconnect the Tech 2(R) Scan tool.
58. Install the engine cover.
59. Advise customer to change brands of fuel.
Central SFI to MFI Conversion Instructions
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multiport Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
Important:
Cleaning the CSFI injectors is the preferred repair. The CSFI unit should not be replaced until
cleaning has been attempted. If the vehicle should
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return for the same repair, then the CSFI unit can be replaced with a MFI unit. If the vehicle is out
of warranty, the customer should be given the option of which fix to pursue.
V6 Engines
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket as shown in Figure 1.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 2. Tubes must be oriented away
from the fuel pressure regulator end of the fuel meter body.
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Notice:
The number 3 Fuel Tube must be positioned behind the number 1 Fuel Tube to eliminate
interference with the Upper Intake Manifold plenum when installed. See Figure 2.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Make sure that the number three Fuel Tube is routed in
behind number 1 and 5 Fuel Tubes as shown in Figure 2. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body
locking it into the bracket.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
5. Insert the number 3 injector into the correct Injector hole in the Lower Intake Manifold first. Install
the number 5 injector next and then number 1. This sequence must be followed correctly to prevent
interference of the Fuel Tubes. Injectors 2, 4, and 6 are then installed.
6. Insure that the electrical connectors of the injectors are positioned so that they do not interfere
with each other and are pointing towards the center of the Intake Manifold. If necessary, rotate the
electrical connectors inboard.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
7. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (orange in color) with clean engine oil.
8. Inspect the Upper Intake Manifold plenum gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper
Intake Manifold plenum following the procedures outlined in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them into the Fuel
Meter Body.
Make sure that the Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
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V8 Engines
This procedure outlines the steps required to replace the existing Central SFI Fuel System with a
new MFI (Multipoint Flexible Injection) Fuel System. Be sure to use the appropriate year and model
Service Manual for proper disassembly and re-assembly procedure(s).
1. Remove Upper Intake Manifold plenum and SFI Fuel Meter Body according to Service Manual
Procedures.
2. Remove the Fuel Meter Body bracket and discard. Install the new bracket.
3. Position Fuel Tubes of MFI Fuel Meter Body as shown in Figure 3. Fuel tubes 1, 3, 5, and 7 are
oriented toward the fuel inlet side of the fuel meter body. Fuel tubes 2, 4, 6, and 8 are oriented
toward the fuel pressure regulator side if the fuel meter body.
4. Insert the MFI Fuel Meter Body into the Fuel Meter Body Bracket on the Lower Intake Manifold
being careful not to bind the Fuel Tubes. Push down firmly on the fuel meter body until the tabs
snap into the bracket locking the fuel meter body in place.
5. Orient the fuel tubes to coincide with their corresponding cylinder. The fuel tubes are numbered
on the side of the fuel meter body and the corresponding cylinder number is cast in the intake
manifold.
Notice:
Use caution when inserting injectors into lower intake manifold to be sure the correct injector is
being placed into the correct hole.
Injectors should not be removed once they have been installed.
Removal of injectors from the intake manifold may cause damage to the retaining lugs on the
injector.
Important:
The Injector holes are numbered on the Lower Intake Manifold. The injectors are numbered on the
side of the Fuel Meter Body.
6. Insert the fuel tubes into their corresponding holes in the intake manifold. Install tubes for
cylinders 1, 3, 6 and 8 making sure that the injector electrical connectors are facing in toward the
center of the manifold.
7. Insert fuel tubes for cylinders 2, 4, 5, and 7 in the same manner.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 00-06-04-003B > Feb > 03 > Fuel
System - MIL ON/Rough Idle on Start-Up > Page 6045
Important:
When installing fuel tubes, it is important that the tubes are oriented properly to provide minimal
interference when installing the upper intake manifold plenum. Intake holes for cylinders 2, 4, 5,
and 7 are closer to the fuel meter body. It is necessary to cross tube 5 over tube 7 and tube 4 over
tube 2 as shown in Figure 4.
Notice:
Lack of lubrication will make installation of the Upper Intake Manifold plenum difficult and may
cause damage to the 0-ring.
8. Lubricate the Fuel Meter Body Upper Manifold 0-ring (blue in color) with clean engine oil.
9. Inspect Upper Intake Manifold Gasket and replace if necessary. Reinstall the Upper Intake
Manifold plenum following the procedures in the Service Manual.
Important:
Lubricate the Fuel Inlet and Return Lines with clean engine oil before inserting them in the of the
Fuel Meter Body.
Make sure that Fuel Line Retaining Bracket is properly oriented with the tabs down.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99-06-04-006 > Feb > 99 > Fuel Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel - Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning
File In Section: 06 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-006
Date: February, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Correct Solvent for CSFI Poppet Cleaning Procedure
Models: 1999 Cadillac Escalade 1996-99 Chevrolet, GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P Models 1996-99
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine (VINs X, W, M, R - RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
and All Transmission Types
Some technicians, when servicing 1996 and newer Truck CSFI (Central Sequential Fuel Injection)
fuel systems (ref. Corporate Bulletin 87-65-07A), may be using an incorrect solvent when
attempting to clean CSFI poppet valves.
Important:
The ONLY solvent that will have any effect on the deposits occurring on poppet valves is: "PORT
FUEL INJECTOR GASOLINE DETERGENT" (P/N 12345104) (IN CANADA USE P/N 12345515).
The use of Goodwrench "Fuel Injector Cleaner" (P/N 12346291), or any other "Fuel Injector
Cleaner" is completely non-effective, and not appropriate for this concern.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Fuel System - Injection Balance Test Procedure
Revised
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-63-16
Date: February, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Injector Balance Test Procedure
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7, 7.4L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6054
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6055
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6056
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6057
This bulletin is being issued to inform technicians of a revision to the Injector Balance Test. This
revised procedure will help the technician to use the Injector Balance Test with greater clarity and
accuracy. Please use this revised procedure of the Injector Balance Test for the following model
years:
^ 1996-97 S/T Truck V-6
^ 1996-97 M/L Van V-6
^ 1996-97 G Van, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 C/K Truck, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 P Truck, V-6, V-8
Technicians diagnosing vehicles with misfire DTCs (P0300-P0308) must perform the Injector Coil
Test and the Injector Balance Test prior to injector replacement.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Injector: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6067
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6068
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6069
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6070
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6079
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6080
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6081
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Injector: > 616316 > Feb > 97 > Fuel System
- Injection Balance Test Procedure Revised > Page 6082
This bulletin is being issued to inform technicians of a revision to the Injector Balance Test. This
revised procedure will help the technician to use the Injector Balance Test with greater clarity and
accuracy. Please use this revised procedure of the Injector Balance Test for the following model
years:
^ 1996-97 S/T Truck V-6
^ 1996-97 M/L Van V-6
^ 1996-97 G Van, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 C/K Truck, V-6, V-8
^ 1996-97 P Truck, V-6, V-8
Technicians diagnosing vehicles with misfire DTCs (P0300-P0308) must perform the Injector Coil
Test and the Injector Balance Test prior to injector replacement.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6083
Fuel Injector: Specifications
Lower hold down plate and nut ............................................................................................................
................................................... 3.0 N.m (27 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6084
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Injector: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6087
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6088
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6089
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6090
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6091
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6092
Fuel Injector: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6093
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6108
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6109
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6110
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6111
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6112
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6113
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6114
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6115
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6116
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6117
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6118
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6119
Fuel Injectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6120
Fuel Injectors (Under 8600 GVW)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6121
Fuel Injector: Description and Operation
Injector And Poppet Nozzle Assembly
DESCRIPTION
Each fuel injector assembly is a solenoid-operated device, controlled by the VCM. The fuel injector
assembly meters the pressurized fuel through a poppet nozzle (5) to a single engine cylinder. The
VCM energizes the injector solenoid, which opens an armature valve (3), allowing fuel to flow past
the ball valve and through a fuel tube (1) to the poppet nozzle.
An increase in fuel pressure causes the poppet nozzle ball to open from its seat against the
extension spring force. This allows the fuel to flow from the nozzle (at approximately 280 kPa (40
psi)). De-energizing the injector solenoid (4) closes the armature. De-energizing also reduces the
fuel pressure acting on the poppet nozzle ball. The extension spring closes the ball to the seat (2).
The extension spring also checks the pressure between the ball and seat and the injector armature
and fuel tube shutoff.
An injector poppet nozzle that is stuck partly open would cause a loss of pressure after the engine
shut down. Consequently, the driver would notice long cranking times on some engines. Dieseling
could also occur because the fuel injector could deliver some fuel to the engine after the driver
turns the ignition to OFF. These components are diagnosed in The Injector Balance Test and The
Injector Coil Test. Refer to Fuel Injector Balance Test. Refer to System Diagnosis / Diagnostic
Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation
Fuel Injector: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Use care in removing the fuel injectors to prevent damage to the electrical connector
terminals, the injector filter, and the fuel nozzle.
NOTE: The fuel injector is serviced as a complete assembly only.
CAUTION: Also since the injectors are electrical components, these injectors should not be
immersed in any type of liquid solvent or cleaner as damage may occur.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the Upper Manifold Assembly.
Refer to Engine Mechanical. 4. Remove the Fuel Meter Body Assembly. Refer to Fuel Meter Body
Assembly. See: Throttle Body/Service and Repair
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel meter body assembly. Refer to Fuel Meter Body Assembly. See: Throttle
Body/Service and Repair 2. Install the upper manifold assembly. Refer to Engine Mechanical. 3.
Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Injector > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Removal and Installation > Page 6124
Fuel Injector: Service and Repair Disassemble and Assemble
DISASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
1. Disassemble the lower hold down plate and nuts. 2. While pulling the poppet nozzle tube
downward, push with small screwdriver down between the injector terminals until the injector is
removed.
ASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
NOTE: Each injector is calibrated for a specific flow rate. When replacing fuel injectors, order the
correct injector for the application being serviced.
1. Lubricate the new injector O-ring seals with clean engine oil. 2. Install on the injector assembly.
3. Assemble the Central SFI fuel injector assembly into the fuel meter body injector socket. 4.
Assemble the lower hold down plate and nuts.
Tighten Tighten the nuts to 3.0 Nm (27 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Line Coupler >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Fuel Line Coupler: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Grasp both sides of the fitting. Twist the female connector 1/4 turn in each direction to loosen
any dirt within the fitting.
WARNING: Wear safety glasses when using compressed air because flying dirt particles may
cause eye Injury.
2. Using compressed air, blow dirt out of the fitting. 3. Choose the correct tool from J37O88 tool set
for size of the fitting. Insert the tool into the female connector, then push inward to release the
locking tabs.
4. Pull the connection apart.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
CAUTION: If it is necessary to remove rust or burrs from a fuel pipe, use emery cloth in a radial
motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the O-ring sealing surface. Using a
clean shop towel, wipe off the male pipe end. Inspect both ends of the fitting for dirt and burrs.
Clean or replace components/assemblies as required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fluing, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak. (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector will swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. 2. Push both sides of the fitting
together to cause the retaining tabs/fingers to snap into place. 3. Once installed, pull on both sides
of the fitting to make sure the connection is secure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Locations
Fuel Pressure Regulator Assembly, Located In Fuel Meter Assy Inside Intake Manifold
Fuel Supply System
Legend
(1) Fuel Pressure Regulator Assembly. (2) Regulator Retainer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Locations > Page 6131
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Description and Operation
Fuel Pressure Regulator Assembly, Located In Fuel Meter Assy Inside Intake Manifold
The fuel pressure regulator (1) is a diaphragm-operated cartridge relief valve with the fuel pump
pressure on one side and the regulator spring pressure and intake manifold vacuum on the other. A
retainer (2) holds the fuel pressure regulator.
The regulator's function is to maintain a constant pressure differential across the injectors at all
times. The pressure regulator compensates for engine load by increasing the fuel pressure as
engine vacuum drops.
With the ignition ON leaving the engine off (zero vacuum), the fuel pressure at the pressure test
connection should be 415-455 kPa (6O-66 psi). If the pressure is too low, poor performance could
result. If the pressure is too high, excessive odor may result. The Fuel System Diagnosis has
information on diagnosing fuel pressure conditions. Refer to Fuel System Pressure Test. Refer to
System Diagnosis / Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Regulator >
Component Information > Locations > Page 6132
Fuel Pressure Regulator: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel Pressure
Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the upper manifold assembly. Refer to
Engine Mechanical.
DISASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
1. Disassemble the fuel pressure regulator snap ring retainer. 2. Disassemble the regulator
assembly and the O-rings. 3. Discard the O-rings.
NOTE: If the fuel pressure regulator is to be reinstalled, inspect the filter screen (if equipped) for
contamination. If contaminated, remove. Discard the filter screen.
ASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
1. Lubricate the new O-rings with clean engine oil. 2. Install as an assembly, backup O-ring, large
O-ring, filter and small O-ring. 3. Assemble the regulator with vacuum tube pointing down and snap
ring retainer.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the upper manifold assembly. Refer to Engine Mechanical. 2. Disconnect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 66-63-09 > Apr > 97 > Engine Hard Start or No Start
Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper: Customer Interest Engine - Hard Start or No Start
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 66-63-09
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Engine Hard Start or No Start (Replace Fuel Pump Pulsator)
Models:
1992-96 Chevrolet and GMC Trucks 1992-96 Oldsmobile Bravada with Gasoline Engines
Condition
Some owners may report their engine is hard to start or will not start.
Cause
The fuel delivery system may have low or no pressure due to a ruptured fuel pump pulsator The
pulsator is the flexible connector between the fuel pump and the metal fuel line in the tank. This
rupture appears as a tear in the pulsator openings and is the result of exposure to gasoline
containing a high percentage of ethanol.
Correction
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the reported symptoms. If diagnosis reveals low or
no fuel system pressure, and the fuel pump is identified as a possible cause, follow the service
procedure for, On-Vehicle Service, Fuel Pump, in the appropriate Truck Service Manual. Before
replacing the fuel pump, inspect the pulsator for signs of tears or leaks It the pulsator is damaged,
replace it with P/N 25175836 and re-test the fuel system for normal pressure. This pulsator is made
of Viton which is resistant to Ethanol content fuels. P/N 25175836 replaces P/N 25094266 for
trucks. This change will appear in GMSPO parts catalogs as they are revised.
Part Information
P/N Description QTY
25175836
Damper Asm - Fuel Pulsator 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Labor Op Description Labor Time
J 5590 Pump, Fuel R&R; Use Published Labor Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 66-63-09 > Apr > 97 >
Engine - Hard Start or No Start
Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Hard Start or No Start
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 66-63-09
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Engine Hard Start or No Start (Replace Fuel Pump Pulsator)
Models:
1992-96 Chevrolet and GMC Trucks 1992-96 Oldsmobile Bravada with Gasoline Engines
Condition
Some owners may report their engine is hard to start or will not start.
Cause
The fuel delivery system may have low or no pressure due to a ruptured fuel pump pulsator The
pulsator is the flexible connector between the fuel pump and the metal fuel line in the tank. This
rupture appears as a tear in the pulsator openings and is the result of exposure to gasoline
containing a high percentage of ethanol.
Correction
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the reported symptoms. If diagnosis reveals low or
no fuel system pressure, and the fuel pump is identified as a possible cause, follow the service
procedure for, On-Vehicle Service, Fuel Pump, in the appropriate Truck Service Manual. Before
replacing the fuel pump, inspect the pulsator for signs of tears or leaks It the pulsator is damaged,
replace it with P/N 25175836 and re-test the fuel system for normal pressure. This pulsator is made
of Viton which is resistant to Ethanol content fuels. P/N 25175836 replaces P/N 25094266 for
trucks. This change will appear in GMSPO parts catalogs as they are revised.
Part Information
P/N Description QTY
25175836
Damper Asm - Fuel Pulsator 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Labor Op Description Labor Time
J 5590 Pump, Fuel R&R; Use Published Labor Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 666309 > Apr > 97 >
Engine - Hard Start Or No Start
Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - Hard Start Or No Start
File In Section: 6E Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 66-63-09
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Engine Hard Start or No Start (Replace Fuel Pump Pulsator)
Models: 1992-96 Chevrolet and GMC Trucks 1992-96 Oldsmobile Bravada with Gasoline Engines
Condition
Some owners may report their engine is hard to start or will not start.
Cause
The fuel delivery system may have low or no pressure due to a ruptured fuel pump pulsator. The
pulsator is the flexible connector between the fuel pump and the metal fuel line in the tank. This
rupture appears as a tear in the pulsator openings and is the result of exposure to gasoline
containing a high percentage of ethanol.
Correction
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the reported symptoms. If diagnosis reveals low or
no fuel system pressure, and the fuel pump is identified as a possible cause, follow the service
procedure for, On-Vehicle Service, Fuel Pump, in the appropriate Truck Service Manual. Before
replacing the fuel pump, inspect the pulsator for signs of tears or leaks. If the pulsator is damaged,
replace it with P/N 25175836 and re-test the fuel system for normal pressure. This pulsator is made
of Viton which is resistant to Ethanol content fuels. P/N 25175836 replaces P/N 25094266 for
trucks. This change will appear in GMSPO parts catalogs as they are revised.
Part Information
P/N Description Qty
25175836 Damper Asm - Fuel Pulsator 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty. use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
Use Published Labor
J 5590 Pump, Fuel R&R; Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6155
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6156
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6157
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6163
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6164
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fuel Pressure Pulsation
Damper: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control Modules > Page 6165
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pressure >
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump > Component Information > Locations
Diagnostic Connector - Fuel Pump: Locations
For Fuel Pump Prime and Run Connector, See Computer and Control Systems, Data Link
Connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Locations
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Locations
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Module
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6174
Fuel Pump Balance Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Locations > Page 6175
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Description and Operation
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates
Empty at All Times
Fuel Gage Indicates Empty At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates
Empty at All Times > Page 6178
Fuel Gage Indicates Full At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates
Empty at All Times > Page 6179
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates
Empty at All Times > Page 6180
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Runs Out of Fuel (Rear Tank Not
Empty)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 1 Of 2)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates
Empty at All Times > Page 6181
Fuel Gage Does Not Change Position On Scale
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6182
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire and personal in jury that may result from a fuel leak, always
replace O-ring seals exposed during component service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen the filler cap(s) to Relieve fuel tank pressure.
See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the electrical connector. 4. Clean both fuel pipe connections
and surrounding areas at the fuel pump before disconnecting to avoid possible contamination of
the fuel system. 5. Disconnect both fuel pipes from the pump. 6. Slide the pump out of the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel pipe O-rings. 2. Position the new pump in the pump bracket. 3. Connect the
fuel feed pipe and suction pipe to the fuel pump.
Tighten Use a backup wrench to prevent the pump from turning. Tighten the fittings to 3O Nm (22 lb. ft.).
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump
Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6183
6.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
6.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
6.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY
Auxiliary Battery Wiring
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in Underhood Fuse Relay Center. The Underhood Fuse Relay
Center is located on the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Relay > Page 6188
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay (Balance Pump)
FUEL PUMP RELAY (BALANCE PUMP)
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Relay
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6191
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6192
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6193
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6209
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6210
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6211
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6212
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6213
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6214
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6215
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6216
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6217
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6218
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6219
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6220
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6221
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6222
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6223
Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
Fuel Pump Balance Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR VIEW
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> Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6224
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Refer to terminals, A1 - B1 B2 - A3 - B3.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pump Relay Operation
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Pump Relay Operation
OPERATION
When the key is turned ON with out the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay
ON for two seconds. This builds up fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two
seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump OFF and waits until the engine starts. As soon as
the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay ON and runs the fuel pump. When the
engine is cranking or running, the control module receives the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors. As a backup system to the fuel pump
relay, the fuel pump can also be turned ON by a fuel pump oil pressure switch. When the engine
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), and the fuel pump relay does not complete the circuit, the fuel pump
oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold.
The fuel pump oil pressure switch will turn ON the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about
28 kPa (4 psi).
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> Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pump Relay Operation > Page 6227
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Balance Module Control System (Dual Tanks)
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump > Fuel Pump Relay
> Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6228
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the relay.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the relay. 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Pickup Filter >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Fuel Pump Pickup Filter: Description and Operation
A woven plastic filter attaches to the lower end of the fuel pump in the fuel tank. The functions of
the strainer are to filter contaminants and to wick fuel. The life of the fuel pump strainer is generally
considered to be that of the fuel pump. The fuel pump strainer is self-cleaning and normally
requires no maintenance. Fuel stoppage at this point indicates that the fuel tank contains an
abnormal amount of sediment or water. In which case the fuel tank should have a thorough
cleaning. Refer to Fuel System Cleaning. If the fuel strainer is plugged, replace the strainer with a
new fuel pump strainer. See: Service and Repair
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Return Line: Specifications
Rear fuel line bracket bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 6.O Nm (53 lb. in.) Fuel pipe retainer nuts .....................................
......................................................................................................................................... 3.0 Nm (27
lb. in.) Fuel pipe nuts ...........................................................................................................................
............................................................... 30.O Nm (22 lb. ft)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation Fuel Pipe O-Rings
The fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel injection unit are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-ring seals are made of special material and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings > Page 6237
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation Nylon Fuel Pipes
WARNING: In Order To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Always cover nylon fuel pipes
with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose the vehicle to temperatures
higher then 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour, or more than 90°C (194°F) for any extended
period. Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced.
Nylon fuel pipes are designed to perform the same job as the steel or rubber fuel tubes they
replace. Nylon pipes are constructed to withstand maximum fuel system pressure, exposure to fuel
additives and changes in temperature. There are two sizes used: 3/8 in. ID for the fuel feed and
5/16 in. ID for the fuel return.
The fuel teed and return pipes are assembled as a harness. Retaining clips hold the pipes together
and provide a means for attaching the pipes to the vehicle. Quick-connect type fittings are used at
the fuel tank ends of the fuel feed/return pipes and at the in-line fuel filter. They are described
below. Sections of the pipes that are exposed to chafing, high temperature or vibration are
protected with a heat resistant rubber hose and/or corrugated plastic conduit.
Nylon fuel pipes are somewhat flexible and can be formed around gradual turns under the vehicle.
However if forced into sharp bends nylon pipes will kink and restrict fuel flow. Once exposed to
fuel, nylon pipes may become stiffer and are more likely to kink if bent too far. Special care should
be taken when working on a vehicle with nylon fuel pipes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pipe O-Rings > Page 6238
Fuel Return Line: Description and Operation Fuel and Vapor Pipes
WARNING: In Order To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Always cover nylon fuel pipes
with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose the vehicle to temperatures
higher then 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour, or more than 9O°C (194°F) for any extended
period. Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced.
The vapor pipe extends from the fuel sender assembly to the charcoal canister. It is made up of
nylon pipe and is connected to the fuel sender assembly and the EVAP canister with the fuel
resistant rubber hoses.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 6239
Fuel Return Line: Testing and Inspection
The diagnosis of gasoline odor may be a condition of a leaking fuel feed, a return pipe or hose.
Fuel pipes that are pinched, plugged, or mis-routed may cause restricted fuel delivery.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Connection
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
The fuel pressure connection is non-replaceable, but it is serviceable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the fuel pressure connection cap.
4. Using a standard valve core removal tool, remove the valve core assembly. 5. Discard the valve
core assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Using the standard valve core tool, install a new valve core assembly. 2. Connect the negative
battery cable. 3. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
3.1. Turn ON ignition switch for 2 seconds.
3.2. Then turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
3.3. Again turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3.4. Check for fuel leaks.
4. Install the fuel pressure connection cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6242
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Fuel Hose and Pipes
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the fittings at the engine
compartment fuel feed and return pipes. 4. Disconnect the fuel pipe attaching hardware. 5.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipe nuts at the fuel inlet and fuel outlet assembly. 6.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes and O-rings. Discard O-rings. 7. Remove the fuel tank.
Refer to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 8. Disconnect the fuel feed and
vapor hoses. On 4DR Utility, the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel
Hose and Pipes. 9. Remove the hardware retaining section of pipe to be replaced. Note location of
attaching hardware for installation.
10. Remove the section of pipe and hoses. 11. Remove rust or burrs from the engine compartment
fuel pipes by the following procedure:
11.1. Use emery cloth in a radial motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the
O-ring sealing surface.
11.2. Using a clean shop towel, wipe off the male tube ends.
11.3. Inspect all the Connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace the components/assemblies as
required.
Installation Procedure
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector will swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
1. Install the new O-rings on the engine fuel feed and return pipes. 2. Connect the fuel feed and
return pipes to the fuel injection unit. Finger tighten only. 3. Connect the fuel pipe attaching
hardware.
Tighten Fuel pipe attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.) using a back-up wrench.
4. Position new fuel pipe harness in original location and fuel pipe harness attaching hardware. 5.
Remove protective caps from one end of both fuel pipes. Leave caps on other end of pipes to
prevent dirt from entering. 6. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube
ends. 7. Connect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel feed and pipe near the in-line filter and at the
fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Pressure Connection
8. Install the fuel tank and attaching hardware if the tank was removed. 9. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6243
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Check for fuel leaks.
11.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6244
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Fuel Vapor Pipes and Hoses
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: If the nylon pipes become kinked, and cannot be straightened, replace them.
- Do Not attempt to repair sections of nylon pipes. If damaged, replace.
- When replacing the vapor pipes, always replace them with original equipment or parts that meet
GM specifications.
- When replacing the vapor hoses, always replace them with original equipment or parts meeting
GM specifications. Use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified with the word Fluoroelastomer
or GM 6163-M on the hose.
1. Remove the hardware retaining section of the pipe to be replaced. Note the location of attaching
hardware for installation. 2. Remove the section of the pipe and hoses. 3. Inspect the hoses for
cuts, swelling, cracks and distortion. Replace as required. 4. Inspect the pipes for holes, kinks, and
cracks. Replace the sections as required.
Installation Procedure
Important:
- Follow the same routing as the original pipes and hoses.
- Secure the pipes and hoses to prevent chafing.
1. Install the section of the pipe and hoses. 2. Install the hardware retaining section of the pipe
being replaced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6245
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe Service
FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING (PURGE FEED AND RETURN PIPES)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes at the fuel injection unit. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe
Replacement NOTE: Inspect the in-line fuel filter for contamination. Replace the fuel filter if it is
plugged.
2. Disconnect the in-line fuel filter. Refer to In-Line Fuel Filter. See: Fuel Filter/Service and Repair
NOTE: Use only oil free compressed air to blow out the fuel pipes.
- If the in-line fuel filter is plugged, inspect the fuel tank internally and purge if necessary.
3. Clean the fuel lines by applying air pressure in the opposite direction of fuel flow.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new strainer (if necessary) on the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Sender
Assembly. See: Fuel Pump/Service and Repair
NOTE: Do not fold or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit. This action restricts fuel
flow.
2. Install the fuel sender assembly with a new seal into the fuel tank. 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer
to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 4. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe at the
fuel injection unit. 5. Connect a hose to the fuel feed pipe at the fuel injection unit. Insert the other
end of the hose into a 3.8 liter (one gallon) fuel can. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Add
twenty-three liters (six gallons) of clean fuel into the fuel tank. 8. Purge the fuel pump and lines.
8.1. Using a fused jumper, connect the fuel pump test terminal to B+ to operate the fuel pump.
Operate the fuel pump until 2 liters (1/2 gallon) flows into the fuel can.
9. Remove the jumper.
10. Connect the fuel line at the fuel injection unit. 11. Check for fuel leaks
11.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
INSPECT
Turn the ignition switch ON for two seconds then turn the switch OFF for ten seconds. Again turn
the ignition switch ON and check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6246
Fuel Return Line: Service and Repair
Fuel Pressure Connection
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
The fuel pressure connection is non-replaceable, but it is serviceable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the fuel pressure connection cap.
4. Using a standard valve core removal tool, remove the valve core assembly. 5. Discard the valve
core assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Using the standard valve core tool, install a new valve core assembly. 2. Connect the negative
battery cable. 3. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
3.1. Turn ON ignition switch for 2 seconds.
3.2. Then turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
3.3. Again turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3.4. Check for fuel leaks.
4. Install the fuel pressure connection cap.
Fuel Hose and Pipes
Diagram
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6247
Diagram
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the fittings at the engine
compartment fuel feed and return pipes. 4. Disconnect the fuel pipe attaching hardware. 5.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipe nuts at the fuel inlet and fuel outlet assembly. 6.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes and O-rings. Discard O-rings. 7. Remove the fuel tank.
Refer to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 8. Disconnect the fuel feed and
vapor hoses. On 4DR Utility, the quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel
Hose and Pipes. 9. Remove the hardware retaining section of pipe to be replaced. Note location of
attaching hardware for installation.
10. Remove the section of pipe and hoses. 11. Remove rust or burrs from the engine compartment
fuel pipes by the following procedure:
11.1. Use emery cloth in a radial motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the
O-ring sealing surface.
11.2. Using a clean shop towel, wipe off the male tube ends.
11.3. Inspect all the Connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace the components/assemblies as
required.
Installation Procedure
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector will swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
1. Install the new O-rings on the engine fuel feed and return pipes. 2. Connect the fuel feed and
return pipes to the fuel injection unit. Finger tighten only. 3. Connect the fuel pipe attaching
hardware.
Tighten -
Fuel pipe attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.) using a back-up wrench.
4. Position new fuel pipe harness in original location and fuel pipe harness attaching hardware. 5.
Remove protective caps from one end of both fuel pipes. Leave caps on other end of pipes to
prevent dirt from entering. 6. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube
ends. 7. Connect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel feed and pipe near the in-line filter and at the
fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Pressure Connection
8. Install the fuel tank and attaching hardware if the tank was removed. 9. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Check for fuel leaks.
11.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Fuel Vapor Pipes and Hoses
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6248
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: If the nylon pipes become kinked, and cannot be straightened, replace them.
- Do Not attempt to repair sections of nylon pipes. If damaged, replace.
- When replacing the vapor pipes, always replace them with original equipment or parts that meet
GM specifications.
- When replacing the vapor hoses, always replace them with original equipment or parts meeting
GM specifications. Use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified with the word Fluoroelastomer
or GM 6163-M on the hose.
1. Remove the hardware retaining section of the pipe to be replaced. Note the location of attaching
hardware for installation. 2. Remove the section of the pipe and hoses. 3. Inspect the hoses for
cuts, swelling, cracks and distortion. Replace as required. 4. Inspect the pipes for holes, kinks, and
cracks. Replace the sections as required.
Installation Procedure
Important:
- Follow the same routing as the original pipes and hoses.
- Secure the pipes and hoses to prevent chafing.
1. Install the section of the pipe and hoses. 2. Install the hardware retaining section of the pipe
being replaced.
Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe Service
FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING (PURGE FEED AND RETURN PIPES)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes at the fuel injection unit. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe
Replacement NOTE: Inspect the in-line fuel filter for contamination. Replace the fuel filter if it is
plugged.
2. Disconnect the in-line fuel filter. Refer to In-Line Fuel Filter. See: Fuel Filter/Service and Repair
NOTE: Use only oil free compressed air to blow out the fuel pipes.
- If the in-line fuel filter is plugged, inspect the fuel tank internally and purge if necessary.
3. Clean the fuel lines by applying air pressure in the opposite direction of fuel flow.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6249
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new strainer (if necessary) on the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Sender
Assembly. See: Fuel Pump/Service and Repair
NOTE: Do not fold or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit. This action restricts fuel
flow.
2. Install the fuel sender assembly with a new seal into the fuel tank. 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer
to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 4. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe at the
fuel injection unit. 5. Connect a hose to the fuel feed pipe at the fuel injection unit. Insert the other
end of the hose into a 3.8 liter (one gallon) fuel can. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Add
twenty-three liters (six gallons) of clean fuel into the fuel tank. 8. Purge the fuel pump and lines.
8.1. Using a fused jumper, connect the fuel pump test terminal to B+ to operate the fuel pump.
Operate the fuel pump until 2 liters (1/2 gallon) flows into the fuel can.
9. Remove the jumper.
10. Connect the fuel line at the fuel injection unit. 11. Check for fuel leaks
11.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
INSPECT
Turn the ignition switch ON for two seconds then turn the switch OFF for ten seconds. Again turn
the ignition switch ON and check for fuel leaks.
Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe Replacement
MATERIALS
FUEL LINES
These are welded steel tubes, meeting GM Specifications 124-M, or its equivalent. The fuel feed
line is 3/8" diameter and the fuel return line is 5/16" diameter. Not use copper or aluminum tubing
to replace steel tubing. Those materials do not have satisfactory durability to withstand normal
vehicle vibration.
COUPLED HOSE
These are not to be repaired and are replaced only as an assembly.
UNCOUPLED HOSE
Use only reinforced furl resistant hose, made of "Fluoroelastomer" material. Do not use a hose
within 4" (100 mm) of any part of the exhaust system, or within 10" (254 mm) of the catalytic
converter. The hose's inside diameter must match the outside diameter of the steel tubing.
CLAMPS
These are stainless steel, screw bank-type clamps, #2494772, or equivalent.
FUEL LINE REPAIR
1. Cut a piece of fuel hose 4" (100 mm) longer than the section of line to be removed. If more than
6" (152 mm) is to be removed, use a combination
of steel pipe and hose. The hose length should not be more than 10" total.
2. Cut a section of the pipe to be replaced with a tube cutter. Use the first step of a double flaring
tool to form a bead on the ends of the pipe and,
also, on the new section of pipe, if used.
3. Slide the hose clamps onto the pipe and push the hose 2" (31 mm) onto each portion of the fuel
pipe. Tighten a clamp on each side of the repair. 4. Secure fuel line to the frame. 5. Check for
leaks.
Engine Compartment Fuel Pipes
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6250
Diagram
Diagram
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the fuel lines at rear of the
intake manifold. 4. Remove the nuts 5. Remove the retainer 6. Disconnect the injector fuel inlet
pipe and the outlet pipe. 7. Remove the rear fuel line bracket. 8. Pull straight up on fuel pipe to
remove fuel pipes from injector assembly. 9. Remove the O-ring seals from both ends of the fuel
feed and return pipes and discard.
NOTE: Check the injector assembly to insure the O-rings have been removed, using the seal
retainer tool.
Installation Procedure
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector wall swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
NOTE: Remember to install the new O-rings into the inlet and outlet of the fuel injector assembly,
using the seal retainer tool.
1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male tube ends.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Return Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6251
2. Connect the fuel feed and return pipes to fuel assembly. 3. Install the fuel pipe retainer and
attaching nuts. Once installed, pull on both ends of each connection to make sure they are secure.
4. Install the rear fuel pipe clip retaining bolt.
Tighten Tighten the rear fuel line bracket bolt to 6.O Nm (53 lb. in.).
- Tighten the fuel pipe retainer nuts to 3.0 Nm (27 lb. in.).
5. Install the new O-ring seals on the engine fuel feed and return pipes. 6. Connect the fuel feed
and return lines to the engine fuel pipes.
Tighten Tighten the fuel pipe nuts to 30.O Nm (22 lb. ft).
7. Tighten the fuel filler cap. 8. Connect the negative battery cable. 9. Check for fuel leaks.
9.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
9.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
9.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
9.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Specifications
Fuel Supply Line: Specifications
Rear fuel line bracket bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................... 6.O Nm (53 lb. in.) Fuel pipe retainer nuts .....................................
......................................................................................................................................... 3.0 Nm (27
lb. in.) Fuel pipe nuts ...........................................................................................................................
............................................................... 30.O Nm (22 lb. ft)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Nylon Fuel Pipes
Fuel Supply Line: Description and Operation Nylon Fuel Pipes
WARNING: In Order To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Always cover nylon fuel pipes
with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose the vehicle to temperatures
higher then 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour, or more than 90°C (194°F) for any extended
period. Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced.
Nylon fuel pipes are designed to perform the same job as the steel or rubber fuel tubes they
replace. Nylon pipes are constructed to withstand maximum fuel system pressure, exposure to fuel
additives and changes in temperature. There are two sizes used: 3/8 in. ID for the fuel feed and
5/16 in. ID for the fuel return.
The fuel teed and return pipes are assembled as a harness. Retaining clips hold the pipes together
and provide a means for attaching the pipes to the vehicle. Quick-connect type fittings are used at
the fuel tank ends of the fuel feed/return pipes and at the in-line fuel filter. They are described
below. Sections of the pipes that are exposed to chafing, high temperature or vibration are
protected with a heat resistant rubber hose and/or corrugated plastic conduit.
Nylon fuel pipes are somewhat flexible and can be formed around gradual turns under the vehicle.
However if forced into sharp bends nylon pipes will kink and restrict fuel flow. Once exposed to
fuel, nylon pipes may become stiffer and are more likely to kink if bent too far. Special care should
be taken when working on a vehicle with nylon fuel pipes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Nylon Fuel Pipes > Page 6257
Fuel Supply Line: Description and Operation Fuel Pipe O-Rings
The fuel feed and return pipe threaded connections at the fuel injection unit are sealed with
replaceable O-ring seals. These O-ring seals are made of special material and should only be
serviced with the correct service part.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Nylon Fuel Pipes > Page 6258
Fuel Supply Line: Description and Operation Fuel and Vapor Pipes
WARNING: In Order To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Always cover nylon fuel pipes
with a wet towel before using a torch near them. Also, never expose the vehicle to temperatures
higher then 115°C (239°F) for more than one hour, or more than 9O°C (194°F) for any extended
period. Take care not to nick or scratch the nylon fuel pipes. If damaged, they must be replaced.
The vapor pipe extends from the fuel sender assembly to the charcoal canister. It is made up of
nylon pipe and is connected to the fuel sender assembly and the EVAP canister with the fuel
resistant rubber hoses.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 6259
Fuel Supply Line: Testing and Inspection
The diagnosis of gasoline odor may be a condition of a leaking fuel feed, a return pipe or hose.
Fuel pipes that are pinched, plugged, or mis-routed may cause restricted fuel delivery.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Fuel Pressure Connection
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
The fuel pressure connection is non-replaceable, but it is serviceable.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the fuel pressure connection cap.
4. Using a standard valve core removal tool, remove the valve core assembly. 5. Discard the valve
core assembly.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Using the standard valve core tool, install a new valve core assembly. 2. Connect the negative
battery cable. 3. Inspect for fuel leaks through the following steps:
3.1. Turn ON ignition switch for 2 seconds.
3.2. Then turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
3.3. Again turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
3.4. Check for fuel leaks.
4. Install the fuel pressure connection cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6262
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Fuel Hose and Pipes
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the fittings at the engine
compartment fuel feed and return pipes. 4. Disconnect the fuel pipe attaching hardware. 5.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipe nuts at the fuel inlet and fuel outlet assembly. 6.
Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes and O-rings. Discard O-rings. 7. Remove the fuel tank.
Refer to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 8. Disconnect the fuel feed and
vapor hoses. The quick-connect fittings at the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Line Coupler.
See: Fuel Line
Coupler/Service and Repair
9. Remove the hardware retaining section of pipe to be replaced. Note location of attaching
hardware for installation.
10. Remove the section of pipe and hoses. 11. Remove rust or burrs from the engine compartment
fuel pipes by the following procedure:
11.1. Use emery cloth in a radial motion with the fuel pipe end in order to prevent damage to the
O-ring sealing surface.
11.2. Using a clean shop towel, wipe off the male tube ends.
11.3. Inspect all the Connectors for dirt and burrs. Clean or replace the components/assemblies as
required.
Installation Procedure
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector will swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
1. Install the new O-rings on the engine fuel feed and return pipes. 2. Connect the fuel feed and
return pipes to the fuel injection unit. Finger tighten only. 3. Connect the fuel pipe attaching
hardware.
Tighten Fuel pipe attaching nuts to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.) using a back-up wrench.
4. Position new fuel pipe harness in original location and fuel pipe harness attaching hardware. 5.
Remove protective caps from one end of both fuel pipes. Leave caps on other end of pipes to
prevent dirt from entering. 6. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male connector tube
ends. 7. Connect the quick-connect fittings at the fuel feed and pipe near the in-line filter and at the
fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Pressure Connection
8. Install the fuel tank and attaching hardware if the tank was removed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6263
9. Tighten the fuel filler cap.
10. Connect the negative battery cable. 11. Check for fuel leaks.
11.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6264
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Fuel Vapor Pipes and Hoses
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: If the nylon pipes become kinked, and cannot be straightened, replace them.
- Do Not attempt to repair sections of nylon pipes. If damaged, replace.
- When replacing the vapor pipes, always replace them with original equipment or parts that meet
GM specifications.
- When replacing the vapor hoses, always replace them with original equipment or parts meeting
GM specifications. Use only reinforced fuel-resistant hose identified with the word Fluoroelastomer
or GM 6163-M on the hose.
1. Remove the hardware retaining section of the pipe to be replaced. Note the location of attaching
hardware for installation. 2. Remove the section of the pipe and hoses. 3. Inspect the hoses for
cuts, swelling, cracks and distortion. Replace as required. 4. Inspect the pipes for holes, kinks, and
cracks. Replace the sections as required.
Installation Procedure
Important:
- Follow the same routing as the original pipes and hoses.
- Secure the pipes and hoses to prevent chafing.
1. Install the section of the pipe and hoses. 2. Install the hardware retaining section of the pipe
being replaced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6265
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Fuel Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe Service
FUEL SYSTEM CLEANING (PURGE FEED AND RETURN PIPES)
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the fuel feed and return pipes at the fuel injection unit. Refer to Fuel Hose and Pipes.
See: Fuel Return Line/Service and Repair/Fuel
Supply/Return/or Emission Pipe Replacement NOTE: Inspect the in-line fuel filter for
contamination. Replace the fuel filter if it is plugged.
2. Disconnect the in-line fuel filter. Refer to In-Line Fuel Filter. See: Fuel Filter/Service and Repair
NOTE: Use only oil free compressed air to blow out the fuel pipes.
- If the in-line fuel filter is plugged, inspect the fuel tank internally and purge if necessary.
3. Clean the fuel lines by applying air pressure in the opposite direction of fuel flow.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new strainer (if necessary) on the fuel sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Sender
Assembly. See: Fuel Pump/Service and Repair
NOTE: Do not fold or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit. This action restricts fuel
flow.
2. Install the fuel sender assembly with a new seal into the fuel tank. 3. Install the fuel tank. Refer
to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 4. Disconnect the fuel feed pipe at the
fuel injection unit. 5. Connect a hose to the fuel feed pipe at the fuel injection unit. Insert the other
end of the hose into a 3.8 liter (one gallon) fuel can. 6. Connect the negative battery cable. 7. Add
twenty-three liters (six gallons) of clean fuel into the fuel tank. 8. Purge the fuel pump and lines.
8.1. Using a fused jumper, connect the fuel pump test terminal to B+ to operate the fuel pump.
Operate the fuel pump until 2 liters (1/2 gallon) flows into the fuel can.
9. Remove the jumper.
10. Connect the fuel line at the fuel injection unit. 11. Check for fuel leaks
11.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
11.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
11.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
11.4. Check for fuel leaks.
INSPECT
Turn the ignition switch ON for two seconds then turn the switch OFF for ten seconds. Again turn
the ignition switch ON and check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6266
Fuel Supply Line: Service and Repair Engine Compartment Fuel Pipes
Diagram
Diagram
Diagram
Diagram
Removal Procedure
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to the Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the fuel lines at rear of the
intake manifold. 4. Remove the nuts 5. Remove the retainer 6. Disconnect the injector fuel inlet
pipe and the outlet pipe. 7. Remove the rear fuel line bracket. 8. Pull straight up on fuel pipe to
remove fuel pipes from injector assembly. 9. Remove the O-ring seals from both ends of the fuel
feed and return pipes and discard.
NOTE: Check the injector assembly to insure the O-rings have been removed, using the seal
retainer tool.
Installation Procedure
WARNING: To Reduce the Risk of Fire and Personal Injury: Before connecting the fitting, always
apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male pipe end. This will ensure proper reconnection
and prevent a possible fuel leak (During normal operation, the O-rings located in the female
connector wall swell and may prevent proper reconnection if not lubricated.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Supply Line > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Fuel Pressure Connection > Page 6267
NOTE: Remember to install the new O-rings into the inlet and outlet of the fuel injector assembly,
using the seal retainer tool.
1. Apply a few drops of clean engine oil to the male tube ends. 2. Connect the fuel feed and return
pipes to fuel assembly. 3. Install the fuel pipe retainer and attaching nuts. Once installed, pull on
both ends of each connection to make sure they are secure. 4. Install the rear fuel pipe clip
retaining bolt.
Tighten Tighten the rear fuel line bracket bolt to 6.O Nm (53 lb. in.).
- Tighten the fuel pipe retainer nuts to 3.0 Nm (27 lb. in.).
5. Install the new O-ring seals on the engine fuel feed and return pipes. 6. Connect the fuel feed
and return lines to the engine fuel pipes.
Tighten Tighten the fuel pipe nuts to 30.O Nm (22 lb. ft).
7. Tighten the fuel filler cap. 8. Connect the negative battery cable. 9. Check for fuel leaks.
9.1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 2 seconds.
9.2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
9.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
9.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Filler Hose: Recalls Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6277
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6278
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6279
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6280
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Filler Hose: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6286
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6287
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6288
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Hose: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6289
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Hose >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6290
Fuel Filler Hose: Description and Operation
To help prevent refueling with leaded fuel, the fuel filler neck has a built-in restrictor and deflector.
The opening in the restrictor will accept only the smaller unleaded gasoline fuel nozzle which must
be fully inserted to bypass the deflector. Attempted refueling with a leaded gas nozzle, or failure to
fully insert the unleaded gas nozzle, will result in gasoline splashing back out of the filler neck.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Filler Neck: Recalls Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6299
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6300
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6301
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar > 03 > Campaign Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6302
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
Fuel Filler Neck: All Technical Service Bulletins Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed
File In Section: 06-Engine Emissions
Bulletin No.: 99066F
Date: March, 2003
SPECIAL POLICY
SUBJECT: 99066F - SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT - SEQUENTIAL CENTRAL PORT FUEL
INJECTION (SCPI) FAILURES IN CALIFORNIA ONLY (YF5 EMISSION EQUIPPED)
MODELS: CERTAIN 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR
TRUCKS AND 2003 NPR TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN CODE W OR RPO
LF6 - VIN CODE X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN CODE M) OR 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN CODE R) ENGINE
AND CALIFORNIA EMISSION EQUIPPED (RPO YF5)
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2002 and 2003 model years to the SCPI Special Policy on
certain S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P and W4/NPR truck models. Please discard Special Policy Bulletin
Number 99066E, dated February, 2003.
CONDITION
Some customers of 1996, 1997, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 model year S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P,
W4/NPR trucks and 2003 NPR trucks, that are registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO
L35 and VIN Code W, or RPO LF6 and VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 and VIN Code M) or 5.7L
(RPO L31 and VIN Code R) engine, and California emissions (RPO YF5), may experience a
"Service Engine Soon" light, misfire, rough idle or hard start due to a deposit build-up on the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injector (SCPI) poppet valve(s). The deposit build-up may cause
injector poppets to stick closed. Certain fuels have been found to interact with the SCPI system to
cause the deposits.
SPECIAL POLICY ADJUSTMENT
This special policy covers the SCPI failure condition described above for a period of ten (10) years
or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service,
regardless of ownership.
The repairs will be made at no charge to the owner. This special policy applies ONLY to repairs
requiring SCPI system servicing, injector cleaning and/or MFI assembly replacement of the SCPI
system. The customer should not be charged for performing a system check when it is determined
that the SCPI system is not the cause of a customer complaint (labor operation T5532 is provided
to submit claims for such system checks). Any additional necessary diagnosis and repairs that are
not related to the SCPI condition are not covered by this special policy. The customer should be
informed that any further service that is not covered by new vehicle warranty will not be covered by
this policy.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1996,1997,1998,1999, 2000, 2001, 2002 S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P, W4/NPR and
2003 NPR model vehicles, registered in California, equipped with 4.3L (RPO L35 - VIN Code W, or
RPO LF6 - VIN Code X), 5.0L (RPO L30 - VIN Code M) or 5.7L (RPO L31 - VIN Code R) engine;
and California emissions (RPO YF5). This Special Policy covers all vehicles within these model
years, with these engine and emissions RPO's.
PARTS INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6308
Parts required to complete this special policy are to be obtained from General Motors Service Parts
Operations (GMSPO). Please refer to your "involved vehicles listing" prior to ordering parts. Normal
orders should be placed on a DRO Daily Replenishment Order. In an emergency, parts should be
ordered on a CSO = Customer Special Order.
IMPORTANT:
Isuzu Parts Ordering: In order to comply with the 10-digit Isuzu part numbering system, Isuzu
dealers must add an "8" to the beginning and a "0" to the end of the listed 8-digit part numbers
when ordering parts through AIPDN.
CUSTOMER NOTIFICATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6309
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6310
Customers will be notified of this special policy on their vehicles by General Motors (see copy of
typical customer letter included with this bulletin - actual divisional letter may vary slightly).
SERVICE PROCEDURE
System Check: Use strategy-based diagnoses listed in the front of the Driveability and Emissions
section of the service manual. If the SCPI system is operating properly, inform the customer that
the vehicle does not have the condition listed in the owner letter. If poor driveability conditions
persist, inform the customer that any further diagnosis and repairs will be at their expense if the
vehicle is outside the parameters of the new vehicle warranty.
SCPI Injector Cleaning Procedure: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-003B to clean the SCPI poppet nozzles. Please note that
the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is referring to the
same fuel system assembly. If the poppet nozzles have previously been cleaned and the sticking
condition has reoccurred, refer to the correction paragraph below.
SCPI Fuel Tank Fill Pipe Assembly for 1997-99 M/L Van and 1999 - some 2000 C/K Truck: with
4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L engines and built prior to listed VIN/Production dates on Service Bulletin
00-06-04-018: If diagnosis leads to sticking poppet nozzles on these models, use the service
procedure from Service Bulletin 00-06-04-018 to replace the fuel tank fill pipe assembly, if this
procedure has not been performed previously. Previous service procedure can be verified by
checking GMVIS for Labor Operation L1065 on "M/L" trucks with replacement part number
15050573; or Labor Operation L1065 on "C/K" trucks with replacement part numbers 15747585 or
15747588.
Correction: If, after cleaning the SCPI poppet nozzles, the normal service manual diagnosis still
indicates that the SCPI is the cause of the customer complaint, or if the injectors have previously
been cleaned and the vehicle has again experienced sticking poppet nozzles, refer to Service
Bulletin 00-06-04-003B and replace the SCPI fuel assembly with the MFI fuel assembly. Please
note that the service bulletin term for SCPI is Central Sequential Fuel Injection (CSFI), but is
referring to the same fuel system assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Filler Neck >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Filler Neck: > 99066F > Mar
> 03 > Campaign - Fuel Injector Sticking Closed > Page 6311
CLAIM INFORMATION
For vehicles repaired under this special policy, submit a claim with the information indicated.
CUSTOMER REIMBURSEMENT
Customer requests for reimbursement are for any previously paid repairs to, or replacement of, the
Sequential Central Port Fuel Injection (SCPI) system. Repairs must have occurred within 10 years
of the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, or 200,000 miles, whichever occurs first.
The requests are to be submitted within two (2) years of the date on which the repair was paid or
within two (2) years of the date of this Special Policy Bulletin, whichever is greater.
When a customer requests reimbursement, they must provide the following:
- Proof of ownership at time of repair.
- Original paid receipt confirming the amount of unreimbursed repair expense(s) (including Service
Contract deductibles), a description of the repair, and the person or entity performing the repair.
Customers from the State of California, must submit requests for reimbursement directly to
(Divisions) per instructions in the owner letter.
If the work was done by someone other than a GM dealership, the amount of reimbursement will
be limited to the amount that the repair would have cost GM to have it completed by a GM
dealership.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A >
Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: Customer Interest Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-03A >
Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 6320
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Gauge Sender: > 76-83-05 >
Sep > 97 > Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: Customer Interest Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: >
76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty
When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: >
76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 6330
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Gauge Sender: >
76-83-05 > Sep > 97 > Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6335
Fuel Gauge Sender: Locations
In rear Fuel Tank
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank > Fuel Gauge
Sender > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6336
Fuel Gage Sender (Auxiliary Fuel Tank)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Tank Unit: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Tank Unit: Customer Interest Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Tank Unit: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 6345
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Fuel Tank Unit: > 76-83-05 > Sep > 97 > Instruments Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Tank Unit: Customer Interest Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Tank Unit: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 >
Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Tank Unit: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When
Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fuel Tank Unit: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 >
Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 6355
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
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Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Tank Unit: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Tank Unit > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6360
Fuel Tank Unit: Description and Operation
The fuel sender assembly is located inside the fuel tank and attaches to the top of the fuel tank.
The fuel sender assembly consists of the following major components:
- The fuel sender.
- The fuel pump.
- The fuel pump strainer.
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Information > Service and Repair > Remove and Install
Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Remove and Install
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3.
Drain the fuel tank. Refer to Draining Fuel Tank. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair
4. Remove the fuel tank and sender assembly. Refer to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel
Tank/Service and Repair
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install a new seal, sending assembly and lock ring. Make sure the lock ring alignment holes fit
over the tabs on the tank. 2. Install the cam lock assembly. Turn the cam lock clockwise to lock it.
3. Install the fuel tank. Refer to Fuel Tank Assembly. See: Fuel Tank/Service and Repair 4. Add
fuel removed from the tank. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
6.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
6.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
6.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
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Fuel Tank Unit: Service and Repair Disassemble and Assemble
DISASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
1. Note the position of the fuel pump strainer on the fuel pump. 2. Support the pump with one hand
and grasp the strainer with the other hand. 3. Rotate the strainer in one direction and pull off the
pump. Discard the strainer after inspection. 4. Inspect the fuel pump strainer. Replace the strainer if
it has contaminates and clean the fuel tank. 5. Inspect the fuel pump inlet for dirt and debris. If
found, replace the pump.
ASSEMBLE PROCEDURE
NOTE: Do not fold or twist the strainer when installing the sending unit. This action restricts fuel
flow.
1. Push on the outer edge of the ferrule until fully seated. 2. Support the pump with one hand and
position the new pump strainer on pump in the same position as noted during disassembly.
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Specifications
IAC valve attaching screws .................................................................................................................
..................................................... 3.0 Nm (26 lb. in.)
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<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6367
Engine Side, LH
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6395
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6396
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6397
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6398
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6399
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6400
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6401
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6402
Idle Control System
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6403
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Description and Operation
PURPOSE
The purpose of the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve assembly is to control the engine idle speed, while
preventing stalls due to changes in the engine load.
OPERATION
The IAC valve, mounted in the throttle body assembly, controls the bypass air around the throttle
valve. By moving a conical valve known as a pintle IN toward the seat (to decrease air flow), or
OUT away from the seat (to increase air flow), a controlled amount of air moves around the throttle
valve.
If engine speed is too low, more air is bypassed around the throttle valve in order to increase the
RPM. If the engine speed is too high, less air is bypassed around the throttle valve in order to
decrease the RPM.
The VCM moves the IAC valve in small steps, called counts which can be measured using a scan
tool connected to the Data Link Connector (DLC). During idle, the proper position of the IAC valve
is calculated by the VCM. This position is based on battery voltage, engine coolant temperature,
engine load, and engine RPM. If the RPM drops below specification and the throttle valve is closed,
the VCM senses a near stall condition, and then the VCM calculates a new valve position in order
to prevent stalling.
If the IAC valve is disconnected and reconnected while the engine is running, the resulting idle
RPM may be wrong. This will require the resetting of the IAC valve.
After running the engine, the IAC valve will reset when the ignition is turned OFF. When servicing
the IAC valve, it should only be disconnected or connected with the ignition OFF.
If the VCM is without battery power for any reason, the programmed position of the IAC valve pintle
is lost. The control module replaces the lost position with a default value. In order to return the IAC
valve pintle to the correct position, see the Idle Learn Procedure.
The IAC valve affects the idle characteristics of the vehicle. A fully retracted valve allows too much
air into the manifold causing a high idle speed. A valve which is stuck closed allows too little air in
the manifold, causing a low idle speed. If the valve is stuck part way open, the idle may be rough,
and the idle will not respond to engine load changes.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6404
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Testing and Inspection
If the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve is disconnected or connected when the engine is running, the idle
RPM may be wrong. The IAC valve may be reset by turning the ignition switch ON for 10 seconds,
OFF for 5 seconds. The IAC valve affects the idle characteristics of the engine as well as throttle
follow-up to compensation for sudden throttle closing. If it is open fully too much air will be allowed
in the manifold and idle speed will be high. If it is stuck closed, too little air will be allowed in the
manifold, and idle speed will be too low. If it is stuck part way open, the idle may be rough, and will
not respond to engine load changes.
The diagnosis of Idle Air Control (IAC) can be found in VCM Outputs Diagnosis. See: Computers
and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset
Procedure
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset Procedure
1. Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition switch to the OFF
position for 10 seconds. 3. Start the engine. 4. Check for the proper idle operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset
Procedure > Page 6407
Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve: Service and Repair Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Replacement
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector from the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve
<--> [Idle Speed/Throttle Actuator - Electronic] > Component Information > Service and Repair > Idle Air Control (IAC) Reset
Procedure > Page 6408
2. Remove the IAC valve attaching screws.
CAUTION: If the IAC valve has been in service: DO NOT push or pull on the IAC valve pintle. The
force required to move the pintle may damage the threads on the worm drive. Also, DO NOT soak
the IAC valve in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
3. Remove the IAC valve assembly. 4. Remove the O-ring.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION PROCEDURE
1. Clean the IAC valve O-ring sealing surface, pintle valve seat, and air passage.
^ Use the carburetor cleaner and a parts cleaning brush in order to remove carbon deposits. Follow
instructions on the container.
^ Do not use a cleaner that contains methyl ethyl ketone, an extremely strong solvent and not
necessary for this type of deposit.
^ Shiny spots on the pintle or seat are normal. They do not indicate misalignment or a bent pintle
shaft.
^ If air passage has heavy deposits, remove the throttle body for complete cleaning.
2. Inspect the IAC valve O-ring for cuts, cracks, or distortion. Replace if damaged.
NOTE: If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The IAC valve pintle shape and
diameter are designed for the specific application.
3. Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28
mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract
the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
MEASUREMENT PROCEDURE
NOTE: If installing a new IAC valve, replace with an identical part. The AC valve pintle shape and
diameter are designed for the specific application.
Measure the distance A between tip of IAC valve pintle and mounting flange. If greater than 28
mm, use finger pressure in order to slowly retract the pintle. The force required to retract the pintle
of a new valve will not cause damage to the valve.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
2. Lubricate the IAC valve O-ring with clean engine oil. 2. Install the IAC valve assembly. 3. Install
the attaching screws.
Tighten ^
Tighten the IAC valve attaching screws to 3.0 Nm (26 lb. in.).
4. Install the electrical connector. 5. Reset the IAC valve pintle position.
5.1.Turn the ignition switch to the ON position for 5 seconds. 5.2.Turn the ignition switch to the
OFF position for 10 seconds. 5.3.Start the engine. 5.4.Check for the proper idle operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 6413
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 6414
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel
Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 6415
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information >
Locations
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Locations
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Module
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6420
Fuel Pump Balance Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6421
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Description and Operation
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times
Fuel Gage Indicates Empty At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 6424
Fuel Gage Indicates Full At All Times
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 6425
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 1 Of 2)
Fuel Gage Is Inaccurate (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 6426
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Testing and Inspection Vehicle Runs Out of Fuel (Rear Tank Not
Empty)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 1 Of 2)
Vehicle Runs Out Of Fuel At Half-Full/rear Tank Is Full At All Times (Part 2 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Fuel Gage Indicates Empty at All Times > Page 6427
Fuel Gage Does Not Change Position On Scale
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 6428
Fuel Pump Balance Module: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
WARNING: To reduce the risk of fire and personal in jury that may result from a fuel leak, always
replace O-ring seals exposed during component service.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Loosen the filler cap(s) to Relieve fuel tank pressure.
See: Service and Repair 3. Disconnect the electrical connector. 4. Clean both fuel pipe connections
and surrounding areas at the fuel pump before disconnecting to avoid possible contamination of
the fuel system. 5. Disconnect both fuel pipes from the pump. 6. Slide the pump out of the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the new fuel pipe O-rings. 2. Position the new pump in the pump bracket. 3. Connect the
fuel feed pipe and suction pipe to the fuel pump.
Tighten Use a backup wrench to prevent the pump from turning. Tighten the fittings to 3O Nm (22 lb. ft.).
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Connect the negative battery cable. 6. Check for fuel leaks.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Balance Module <--> [Fuel Pump Control Unit] > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Page 6429
6.1. Turn the ignition ON for 2 seconds.
6.2. Turn OFF the ignition for 10 seconds.
6.3. Again, turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
6.4. Check for fuel leaks.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Relay
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY
Auxiliary Battery Wiring
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in Underhood Fuse Relay Center. The Underhood Fuse Relay
Center is located on the LH rear of engine compartment, on fender.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Relay > Page 6434
Fuel Pump Relay: Locations Fuel Pump Relay (Balance Pump)
FUEL PUMP RELAY (BALANCE PUMP)
(Vehicles with Dual Tanks Only)
On vehicles over 15,000 GVWR and equipped with dual fuel tanks, the Fuel Pump Balance Relay
is located inside the left frame rail, near Transmission Crossmember.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Fuel Pump Relay: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6437
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Fuel Pump Relay: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
> Page 6453
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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> Page 6455
Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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> Page 6456
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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> Page 6458
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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> Page 6459
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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> Page 6460
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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> Page 6462
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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> Page 6463
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Fuel Pump Relay: Connector Views
Fuel Pump Balance Relay
Fuel Pump Relay
FUEL PUMP RELAY CONNECTOR VIEW
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> Page 6470
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center (Part 1 Of 2)
The Fuel Pump Relay is located in the Underhood Fuse-Relay Center. Refer to terminals, A1 - B1 B2 - A3 - B3.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Relays and Modules - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pump Relay
Operation
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Pump Relay Operation
OPERATION
When the key is turned ON with out the engine running, the control module turns a fuel pump relay
ON for two seconds. This builds up fuel pressure quickly. If the engine is not started within two
seconds, the control module shuts the fuel pump OFF and waits until the engine starts. As soon as
the engine is cranked, the control module turns the relay ON and runs the fuel pump. When the
engine is cranking or running, the control module receives the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor
reference pulses which in turn energize the fuel injectors. As a backup system to the fuel pump
relay, the fuel pump can also be turned ON by a fuel pump oil pressure switch. When the engine
reaches about 28 kPa (4 psi), and the fuel pump relay does not complete the circuit, the fuel pump
oil pressure switch will close to complete the circuit to run the fuel pump.
An inoperative fuel pump relay can result in long cranking times, particularly if the engine is cold.
The fuel pump oil pressure switch will turn ON the fuel pump as soon as oil pressure reaches about
28 kPa (4 psi).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Fuel Pump Relay
Operation > Page 6473
Fuel Pump Relay: Description and Operation Fuel Balance Module Control System (Dual Tanks)
FUEL BALANCE CONTROL SYSTEM
The fuel balance control system consists of the following components:
- Front (main) fuel tank sender. - Rear (auxiliary) fuel tank sender. - Balance fuel pump. - Balance
fuel pump relay. - Fuel sender and balance module.
On vehicles with dual tanks, the front tank is the main and the rear tank is the auxiliary. The main
fuel pump supplies fuel to the fuel injection unit. The low pressure (about 32 kPa or 7 psi) fuel
balance pump is used only to transfer fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank in order to
balance the fuel levels in both tanks. As the main tank level drops to about 25 % below the level in
the auxiliary tank, the fuel sender and balance module energizes the fuel pump relay. This pumps
the fuel from the auxiliary tank to the main tank. When the level in the main tank reaches a level
slightly higher than the level in the auxiliary tank, or the auxiliary tank is empty, the module
de-energizes the balance pump relay and fuel pump. Any malfunction in either of the fuel gage
circuits will disable the system and the fuel will not be transferred from the main fuel tank to the
auxiliary fuel tank.
FUEL PUMP BALANCE MODULE
The Fuel Pump Balance Module relies on input from the primary and secondary fuel senders, and
cannot operate if the fuel gauge is not working properly.
For Fuel Pump Balance Module testing and inspection refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Symptom Releated Diagnostic Procedures / Fuel Gauge See: Instrument
Panel, Gauges and Warning Indicators/Testing and Inspection/Symptom Related Diagnostic
Procedures
For Fuel Pump Balance Module electrical diagrams refer to Instrument Panel, Gauges and
Warning Indicators / Diagrams / Electrical. See: Instrument Panel, Gauges and Warning
Indicators/Diagrams
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Delivery and Air Induction > Fuel Pump Relay > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6474
Fuel Pump Relay: Service and Repair
Removal Procedure
1. Remove the underhood electrical center cover. 2. Remove the relay.
Installation Procedure
1. Install the relay. 2. Install the underhood electrical center cover.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6480
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6481
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6482
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6483
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6484
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6485
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6486
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6487
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6488
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6489
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6490
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6491
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6492
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6506
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6507
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6508
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6509
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6510
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6511
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6512
Mass Air Flow System
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6513
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Description and Operation
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor
The Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor measures the amount of air which passes through it. The VCM
uses this information to determine the operating condition of the engine, to control fuel delivery. A
large quantity of air indicates acceleration. A small quantity of air indicates deceleration or idle.
The scan tool reads the MAF value and displays it in grams per second (gm/Sec). At idle, it should
read between 5-7 gm/Sec on a fully warmed up engine.
Values should change rather quickly on acceleration, but values should remain fairly stable at any
given RPM. When the VCM detects a malfunction in the MAF sensor circuit, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0101 system performance.
^ DTC P0102 frequency low.
^ DTC P0103 frequency high.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor <--> [Air Flow Meter/Sensor] > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6514
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor: Service and Repair
MAF Sensor
MAF Sensor Intake Duct
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: Take care when handling the Mass Air Flow (MAF). Do Not dent, puncture, or otherwise
damage the honeywell located at the air inlet end of the MAF. Do Not touch the sensing elements
or allow anything (including solvents and lubricants) to come in contact with them. A small amount
of GM lubricant (P/N 99855406) may be used on the air duct only to aid in installation. Do Not drop
or roughly handle the MAF.
1. Disconnect the 3 wire electrical connector. 2. Loosen the clamp on the intake duct. 3. Carefully
remove the MAF sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the MAF sensor. 2. Install the intake ducts. 3. Tighten the clamp. 4. Connect the electrical
connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil
Pressure Switch and Sender
Engine View, Rear
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Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Fuel Pump Oil
Pressure Switch and Sender > Page 6519
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Locations Oil Pressure Switch and Sender
LH side of Engine, rear
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Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 6520
Fuel Pump Oil Pressure Switch And Sender
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Delivery and Air Induction > Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump) > Component Information > Locations > Page 6521
Oil Pressure Switch (For Fuel Pump): Service and Repair
Oil Pressure Switch Electrical Connector
Oil Pressure Switch
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch,
using wrench J 35748 it required.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel pump and oil pressure indicator switch. 2. Install the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 6525
Engine Side, LH
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6529
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 6530
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Instructions > Page 6531
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Instructions > Page 6532
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6533
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6534
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Instructions > Page 6535
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6550
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6551
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6552
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6553
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6554
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6555
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6556
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6557
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6558
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6559
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 6560
TP Sensor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6561
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position
(TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position
(TP) Sensor > Page 6564
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6565
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Sensors and Switches - Fuel
Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6566
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications
Throttle Body: Specifications
Throttle body retaining bolt or stud
...........................................................................................................................................................
25 Nm (18 lb. in.) Air inlet duct retaining nut .......................................................................................
................................................................................. 2.5 Nm (22 lb. in.) Fuel meter body attaching
bolts
..............................................................................................................................................................
10.0 Nm (88 lb. in.) fuel pipe nuts ........................................................................................................
................................................................................... 30.0 Nm (22 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6570
Throttle Body: Application and ID
An 8 digit part identification number is stamped on the bottom of the throttle body casting. Refer to
this number if servicing, or part replacement is required. While on-vehicle or off, clean the throttle
bore and valve deposits using the carburetor cleaner and a parts cleaning brush. Follow the
instructions on container.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 6571
Throttle Body: Description and Operation
Throttle Body Assembly
DESCRIPTION
The throttle body assembly is a downdraft design. The throttle body is mounted on the intake
manifold plenum. The VCM uses the throttle body to control air flow into the engine, thereby,
controlling engine output.
The throttle valve within the throttle body is opened by the driver through the accelerator controls.
During engine idle, the throttle valve is almost closed, and the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve handles
the air flow control.
The throttle body also provides the location for mounting the Throttle Position (TP) sensor. The
throttle body also senses changes in the engine vacuum due to the throttle valve position. The
vacuum ports are located at, above, or below the throttle valve in order to generate the vacuum
signals needed by various components.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning
Throttle Body: Service and Repair Throttle Body Cleaning
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
Removing the fuel meter body assembly from the engine requires removing the top portion of the
intake manifold, called the upper manifold assembly and throttle body.
An 8 digit part identification number is on a mylar label affixed to one of the fuel meter body
assemblies. Refer to this number if servicing or part replacement is required.
NOTE: Do not use a cleaner which contains methyl ethyl ketone. This extremely strong solvent is
not necessary for this type of cleaning. Use a carburetor cleaner in order to remove deposits. Refer
to the package instructions on the use of the product.
NOTE: Cover the injector sockets in order to prevent dirt and other contaminants from entering the
open fuel passages.
- Before removal, the fuel meter body assembly may be cleaned with a spray type engine cleaner,
GM X-3OA or the equivalent.
- Follow the package instructions.
- Do not soak fuel meter body assemblies in liquid cleaning solvent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6574
Throttle Body: Service and Repair Throttle Body Assembly Removal and Replacement
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
Air Inlet Duct Fastener
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6575
SERVICE INFORMATION
The throttle body assembly repair procedures cover component replacement with the unit on the
vehicle. However, the throttle body replacement requires that the complete unit be removed from
the engine. An 8 digit part identification number is stamped on the bottom of the throttle body
casting. Refer to this number if servicing, or part replacement is required.
While on-vehicle or off, clean the throttle bore and valve deposits using the carburetor cleaner and
a parts cleaning brush. Follow the instructions on container.
THREAD LOCKING COMPOUND
WARNING: In precoating screws, do not use a higher strength locking compound than
recommended. Doing so could make removing the screw extremely difficult or result in damaging
the screw head.
The service repair kits are supplied with a small vial of thread-locking compound with directions for
use. If the material is not available, use Loctite 262 or the equivalent.
Do not use a cleaner that contains methyl ethyl ketone, an extremely strong solvent, and not
necessary for this type of deposit.
The throttle body metal parts may be cleaned following the disassembly in a cold immersion-type
cleaner such as GM X-55 or the equivalent.
WARNING: Do not immerse the Throttle Position (TP) sensor and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve in
any type of cleaner because they are electronic devices.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Remove the air inlet duct fastener and the duct. 3.
Remove the IAC valve and the TP sensor electrical connectors. 4. Remove the throttle and cruise
control cables. 5. Remove the accelerator cable bracket nuts and the bracket. 6. Remove the
throttle body retaining bolts or studs. 7. Remove the throttle body assembly. 8. Remove the flange
gasket. 9. Discard the flange gasket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
WARNING: In order to prevent damage to the sealing surfaces, carefully use sharp tools in
cleaning the old gasket from the aluminum surfaces.
1. Clean the gasket surface on the intake manifold. 2. Install a new flange gasket. 3. Install the
throttle body assembly. 4. Install the throttle body assembly retaining bolt or stud.
Tighten Tighten the throttle body attaching bolt or stud to 25 Nm (18 lb. in.).
NOTE: Make sure the throttle and cruise control linkage does not hold the throttle open. Refer to
Accelerator Controls. See: Throttle Cable/Linkage/Service and Repair
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Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6576
5. Install the throttle and cruise control cables. 6. Install the accelerator cable bracket. 7. install the
accelerator cable bracket nuts. 8. Install the IAC valve electrical connector. 9. Install the TP sensor
electrical connector.
10. Install the air inlet duct and retaining nut.
Tighten Tighten the nut to 2.5 Nm (22 lb. in.).
11. Connect the negative battery cable. 12. With the engine off, check to see that the accelerator
pedal is free.
12.1. Depress the pedal to the floor.
12.2. Release the accelerator pedal.
CONTROLLED IDLE SPEED
There should be no DTCs displayed. The idle air control system has been checked.
1. Set the parking brake. 2. Block the drive wheels. 3. Connect a scan tool to the Data Link
Connector (DLC) with the tool in the open mode. 4. Start the engine. 5. Bring the engine to the
normal operating temperature. 6. Check for the correct state of PRNDL (R-D-L) switch position on
the scan tool. 7. Check the specifications table for controlled idle speed and IAC valve pintle
position (counts). Refer to Specifications. See: Idle Air Control
(IAC) Valve/Service and Repair
8. If within specifications, the idle speed is being correctly controlled by the control module. 9. If not
within specifications, refer to Symptoms. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and
Inspection
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6577
Throttle Body: Service and Repair Fuel Meter Body Assembly
Fuel Feed And Return Hoses From Engine Fuel Pipes
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6578
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Relieve the fuel system pressure. Refer to Fuel
Pressure Relief Procedure. See: Service and Repair 3. Remove the electrical connector to the fuel
meter body. 4. Remove the fuel feed and return hoses from engine fuel pipes. 5. Remove the
upper manifold assembly. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
NOTE: When disconnecting the poppet nozzles, remember the sequence in order to ensure correct
poppet nozzle placement to each cylinder.
6. Squeeze the poppet nozzle locking tabs together while lifting the nozzle out of the casting
socket. 7. Remove the fuel meter body from the bracket by releasing the lock tabs on the bracket.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the fuel meter body assembly in the intake manifold.
Tighten Tighten the fuel meter body attaching bolts to 10.0 Nm (88 lb. in.).
WARNING: In order to reduce the risk of fire and personal injury verify that the poppet nozzles are
firmly seated and locked in their casting sockets. An unlocked poppet nozzle could work loose from
its socket thus resulting in a fuel leak.
2. Push the fuel meter body into the bracket. Make sure all the tabs are locked into place.
NOTE: The fuel meter body assemblies are numbered to indicate poppet nozzle order.
3. Push the poppet nozzles into the casting sockets. 4. Inspect the poppet nozzles in order to
ensure they are firmly seated and locked in the casting sockets. 5. Install the upper manifold
electrical connector. 6. Install the new O-ring seal on engine fuel feed and return pipes. 7. Install
the fuel feed and return hoses to the engine fuel pipes.
Tighten Tighten the fuel pipe nuts to 30.0 Nm (22 lb. ft.).
8. Inspect for fuel leaks.
8.1. Turn ON the ignition switch for 2 seconds.
8.2. Then turn the ignition switch to the OFF position for 10 seconds.
8.3. Again turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
8.4. Check for fuel leaks.
9. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
10. Disconnect the fuel pipes. 11. Install the upper manifold assembly. Refer to Engine Mechanical.
12. Tighten the fuel filler cap. 13. Connect the fuel Pipes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Body > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Throttle Body Cleaning > Page 6579
14. Connect the negative battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26 > Apr > 96 > Recall Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat
Technical Service Bulletin # 96C26 Date: 960401
Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat
CHEVROLET No.: 96-C-26
Date: 04-01-96
Subject: PRODUCT SAFETY CAMPAIGN 96-C-26 - THROTTLE CABLE DASH MAT CONTACT
Model and Year: 1995-96 C/K PICKUPS/CAB CHASSIS, SUBURBANS & TAHOES WITH
GASOLINE ENGINES
To: All Chevrolet/Geo Dealers
The National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act as amended, provides that each vehicle which is
subject to a recall campaign of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after
the owner has tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty (60) days after tender of a
vehicle is prima facie evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time.
If the condition is not adequately repaired within a reasonable time, the owner may be entitled to an
identical or reasonably equivalent vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a
reasonable allowance for depreciation.
To avoid having to provide these burdensome solution, every effort must be made to promptly
schedule an appointment with each owner and to repair their vehicle as soon as possible. As you
will see in reading the attached cop of the letter that is being sent to owner, the owners are being
instructed to contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center if their dealer does not remedy the
condition within five (5) days of the mutually agreed upon service date. If the condition is not
remedied within a reasonable time, they are instructed on how to contact the National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration.
Defect & Vehicles Involved
DEFECT INVOLVED
General Motors has decided that certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Utilities,
and Suburban model trucks equipped with gasoline engines fail to conform to Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 124, "Accelerator Control Systems". Some of these vehicles
were assembled with the throttle cable contacting the dash mat. The dash mat may bind the throttle
such that if this system were tested for maximum throttle return times as required by FMVSS 124, it
may not meet these requirements.
To correct this condition, dealers are to inspect for adequate throttle cable to dash mat clearance,
and , if there is insufficient clearance, cut out a portion of the dash mat to provide clearance.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Suburbans & Tahoes equipped
with gasoline engines and built within the VIN breakpoints as shown.
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number Computer Listings.
Computer listings contain the complete Vehicle Identification Number, owner name and address
data, and are furnished to involved dealers with campaign bulletin. Owner name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with owners involved in this campaign.
These listings may contain owner name and addresses obtained from State Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26 > Apr > 96 > Recall Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6588
registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states. Accordingly, you are
urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign. Any
dealer not receiving as computer listing with the campaign bulletin has no involved vehicles
currently assigned.
Owner Notification & Dealer Campaign Responsibility
OWNER NOTIFICATION
Owners will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by Chevrolet Motor Division (see copy of
owner letter included with this bulletin).
DEALER CAMPAIGN RESPONSIBILITY
All unsold new vehicles in dealers, possession and subject to this campaign must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin before owners take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to owners, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Owners of vehicles recently sold from your new vehicle inventory with no owner information
indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer, and arrangements made to make
the required correction according to the instructions contained in this bulletin. This could be done
by mailing to such owners a copy of the owners letter accompanying this bulletin. Campaign
follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the owner may not as yet have received
the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
This bulletin is notice to you that the new motor vehicles included in this campaign may not comply
with the standard identified above. Under Section 108 of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle
Safety Act, it is illegal for a dealer to sell a new motor vehicle which the dealer knows does not
comply with an applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard. As a consequence, if you sell
any of these motor vehicles without first performing the campaign correction, your dealership may
be subject to civil penalty up to $1,000 for each such sale.
Parts Information
No parts are required to complete this campaign.
Service Procedure
1. Place vehicle in park, set parking brake and turn engine to full lock position.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26 > Apr > 96 > Recall Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6589
2. Locate accelerator cable between accelerator lever assembly and bulkhead under dash (Figure
1).
3. Measure minimum clearance between accelerator cable and dash mat.
4. If clearance of at least 12 mm (0.5 in.) exists between cable and dash insulator mat through
entire range of pedal travel, proceed to step 7.
5. Inspect area under mat around location to insure no wiring was routed under this section.
6. Using a carpet knife or similar tool, carefully cut away a sufficient section of the dash mat to
provide at least 12 mm (0.5 in.) clearance between pad and accelerator cable through entire range
of motion.
7. Install Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign ID Label & Claim Information
CAMPAIGN IDENTIFICATION LABEL
Each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign
Bulletin will require a "Campaign Identification Label". Each label provide a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Each "Campaign Identification Label" is to be located on the radiator core support in an area which
will be visible when the vehicle is brought in for periodic servicing by the owner. When installing the
new Campaign Identification Label, be sure to install the clear protective covering. Additional
Campaign Identification Labels can be obtained from VISPAC Incorporated by calling
1-800-269-5100 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when
ordering.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26 > Apr > 96 > Recall Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6590
Apply "Campaign Identification Label", only on a clean, dry surface.
CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the General Motors Corporation Claims Processing Manual for details on Product
Campaign Claim Submission.
Owner Letter
Dear Chevrolet Customer:
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
REASON FOR THIS RECALL
General Motors has decided that certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Utilities,
and Suburban model trucks equipped with gasoline engines fail to conform to Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 124, "Accelerator Control Systems". Some of these vehicles
were assembled with the throttle cable contacting the dash mat. The dash mat may bind the throttle
such that if this system were tested for maximum throttle return times as required by FMVSS 124, it
may not meet these requirements.
WHAT WE WILL DO
To correct this condition, your dealer will inspect for adequate throttle cable to dash mat clearance,
and , if there is insufficient clearance, cut out a portion of the dash mat to provide clearance. This
service will be performed at no charge to you.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO
Please contact your Chevrolet dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and so the
dealer may order the necessary parts for the repair. Instructions for making this correction have
been sent to your dealer. The labor time necessary to perform this service correction is
approximately 15 minutes. Please ask your dealer if you wish to know how much additional time
will be needed to schedule and process your vehicle.
The enclosed owner reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer will
assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you have sold or traded
your vehicle, please let us know by completing the postage paid reply card and returning it to us.
Your Chevrolet dealer is best equipped to provide service to ensure that your vehicle is corrected
as promptly as possible. If, however you take your vehicle to your dealer on the agreed service
date, and they do not remedy this condition that date or within five (5) days, we recommend you
contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center by calling 1-800-222-1020.
After contacting your dealer and the Customer Assistance Center, if you are still not satisfied that
we have done our best to remedy this condition without charge and within a reasonable time, you
may wish to write the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 400 Seventh
Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20590 or call 1-800-424-9393 (Washington D.C. residents use
202-366-0123).
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your safety and continue satisfaction with our products.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Recalls for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > NHTSA96V057000 > Mar > 96
> Recall 96V057000: Throttle Binding
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Recalls Recall 96V057000: Throttle Binding
THESE VEHICLES WERE ASSEMBLED WITH THE THROTTLE CABLE CONTACTING THE
DASH MAT WHICH COULD BIND THE THROTTLE. THIS DOES NOT MEET WITH THE
MAXIMUM RETURN TIMES REQUIRED BY FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD
NO. 124, "ACCELERATOR CONTROL SYSTEMS." CONSEQUENCE OF NON-COMPLIANCE:
THE ENGINE SPEED MAY NOT RETURN TO IDLE INCREASING THE POTENTIAL FOR A
VEHICLE ACCIDENT. DEALERS WILL INSPECT FOR ADEQUATE THROTTLE CABLE TO
DASH MAT CLEARANCE, AND IF THERE IS INSUFFICIENT CLEARANCE, CUT OUT A
PORTION OF THE DASH MAT TO PROVIDE PROPER CLEARANCE.
SYSTEM: FUEL; THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL; FMVSS NO. 124.
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PICKUP TRUCKS, CAB/CHASSIS, UTILITY AND MULTI-PURPOSE
TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH GASOLINE ENGINES.
NOTE: OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN
AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A
REASONABLE TIME, SHOULD CONTACT CHEVROLET AT 1-800-222-1020 OR GMC AT
1-800-462-8782. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY
ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-800-424-9393.
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C10 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C20 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C30
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K10 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K20 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K30
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK SUBURBAN 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK TAHOE 1995 GMC C15
1995 GMC C25 1995 GMC C35 1995 GMC SIERRA 1995 GMC SUBURBAN 1995 GMC YUKON
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C10 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C20 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C30
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K10 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K20 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K30
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK SUBURBAN 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK TAHOE 1996 GMC C15
1996 GMC C25 1996 GMC C35 1996 GMC SIERRA 1996 GMC SUBURBAN 1996 GMC YUKON
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26
> Apr > 96 > Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat
Technical Service Bulletin # 96C26 Date: 960401
Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat
CHEVROLET No.: 96-C-26
Date: 04-01-96
Subject: PRODUCT SAFETY CAMPAIGN 96-C-26 - THROTTLE CABLE DASH MAT CONTACT
Model and Year: 1995-96 C/K PICKUPS/CAB CHASSIS, SUBURBANS & TAHOES WITH
GASOLINE ENGINES
To: All Chevrolet/Geo Dealers
The National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act as amended, provides that each vehicle which is
subject to a recall campaign of this type must be adequately repaired within a reasonable time after
the owner has tendered it for repair. A failure to repair within sixty (60) days after tender of a
vehicle is prima facie evidence of failure to repair within a reasonable time.
If the condition is not adequately repaired within a reasonable time, the owner may be entitled to an
identical or reasonably equivalent vehicle at no charge or to a refund of the purchase price less a
reasonable allowance for depreciation.
To avoid having to provide these burdensome solution, every effort must be made to promptly
schedule an appointment with each owner and to repair their vehicle as soon as possible. As you
will see in reading the attached cop of the letter that is being sent to owner, the owners are being
instructed to contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center if their dealer does not remedy the
condition within five (5) days of the mutually agreed upon service date. If the condition is not
remedied within a reasonable time, they are instructed on how to contact the National Highway
Traffic Safety Administration.
Defect & Vehicles Involved
DEFECT INVOLVED
General Motors has decided that certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Utilities,
and Suburban model trucks equipped with gasoline engines fail to conform to Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 124, "Accelerator Control Systems". Some of these vehicles
were assembled with the throttle cable contacting the dash mat. The dash mat may bind the throttle
such that if this system were tested for maximum throttle return times as required by FMVSS 124, it
may not meet these requirements.
To correct this condition, dealers are to inspect for adequate throttle cable to dash mat clearance,
and , if there is insufficient clearance, cut out a portion of the dash mat to provide clearance.
VEHICLES INVOLVED
Involved are certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Suburbans & Tahoes equipped
with gasoline engines and built within the VIN breakpoints as shown.
Involved vehicles have been identified by Vehicle Identification Number Computer Listings.
Computer listings contain the complete Vehicle Identification Number, owner name and address
data, and are furnished to involved dealers with campaign bulletin. Owner name and address data
furnished will enable dealers to follow-up with owners involved in this campaign.
These listings may contain owner name and addresses obtained from State Motor Vehicle
Registration Records. The use of such motor vehicle
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26
> Apr > 96 > Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6600
registration data for any other purpose is a violation of law in several states. Accordingly, you are
urged to limit the use of this listing to the follow-up necessary to complete this campaign. Any
dealer not receiving as computer listing with the campaign bulletin has no involved vehicles
currently assigned.
Owner Notification & Dealer Campaign Responsibility
OWNER NOTIFICATION
Owners will be notified of this campaign on their vehicles by Chevrolet Motor Division (see copy of
owner letter included with this bulletin).
DEALER CAMPAIGN RESPONSIBILITY
All unsold new vehicles in dealers, possession and subject to this campaign must be held and
inspected/repaired per the service procedure of this campaign bulletin before owners take
possession of these vehicles.
Dealers are to service all vehicles subject to this campaign at no charge to owners, regardless of
mileage, age of vehicle, or ownership, from this time forward.
Owners of vehicles recently sold from your new vehicle inventory with no owner information
indicated on the dealer listing, are to be contacted by the dealer, and arrangements made to make
the required correction according to the instructions contained in this bulletin. This could be done
by mailing to such owners a copy of the owners letter accompanying this bulletin. Campaign
follow-up cards should not be used for this purpose, since the owner may not as yet have received
the notification letter.
In summary, whenever a vehicle subject to this campaign enters your vehicle inventory, or is in
your dealership for service in the future, please take the steps necessary to be sure the campaign
correction has been made before selling or releasing the vehicle.
This bulletin is notice to you that the new motor vehicles included in this campaign may not comply
with the standard identified above. Under Section 108 of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle
Safety Act, it is illegal for a dealer to sell a new motor vehicle which the dealer knows does not
comply with an applicable Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard. As a consequence, if you sell
any of these motor vehicles without first performing the campaign correction, your dealership may
be subject to civil penalty up to $1,000 for each such sale.
Parts Information
No parts are required to complete this campaign.
Service Procedure
1. Place vehicle in park, set parking brake and turn engine to full lock position.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26
> Apr > 96 > Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6601
2. Locate accelerator cable between accelerator lever assembly and bulkhead under dash (Figure
1).
3. Measure minimum clearance between accelerator cable and dash mat.
4. If clearance of at least 12 mm (0.5 in.) exists between cable and dash insulator mat through
entire range of pedal travel, proceed to step 7.
5. Inspect area under mat around location to insure no wiring was routed under this section.
6. Using a carpet knife or similar tool, carefully cut away a sufficient section of the dash mat to
provide at least 12 mm (0.5 in.) clearance between pad and accelerator cable through entire range
of motion.
7. Install Campaign Identification Label.
Campaign ID Label & Claim Information
CAMPAIGN IDENTIFICATION LABEL
Each vehicle corrected in accordance with the instructions outlined in this Product Campaign
Bulletin will require a "Campaign Identification Label". Each label provide a space to include the
campaign number and the five (5) digit dealer code of the dealer performing the campaign service.
This information may be inserted with a typewriter or a ball point pen.
Each "Campaign Identification Label" is to be located on the radiator core support in an area which
will be visible when the vehicle is brought in for periodic servicing by the owner. When installing the
new Campaign Identification Label, be sure to install the clear protective covering. Additional
Campaign Identification Labels can be obtained from VISPAC Incorporated by calling
1-800-269-5100 (Monday-Friday, 8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. EST). Ask for Item Number S-1015 when
ordering.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: > 96C26
> Apr > 96 > Recall - Throttle Cable May Contact Dash Mat > Page 6602
Apply "Campaign Identification Label", only on a clean, dry surface.
CLAIM INFORMATION
Refer to the General Motors Corporation Claims Processing Manual for details on Product
Campaign Claim Submission.
Owner Letter
Dear Chevrolet Customer:
This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor
Vehicle Safety Act.
REASON FOR THIS RECALL
General Motors has decided that certain 1995-96 Chevrolet C/K Pickups/Cab Chassis, Utilities,
and Suburban model trucks equipped with gasoline engines fail to conform to Federal Motor
Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) 124, "Accelerator Control Systems". Some of these vehicles
were assembled with the throttle cable contacting the dash mat. The dash mat may bind the throttle
such that if this system were tested for maximum throttle return times as required by FMVSS 124, it
may not meet these requirements.
WHAT WE WILL DO
To correct this condition, your dealer will inspect for adequate throttle cable to dash mat clearance,
and , if there is insufficient clearance, cut out a portion of the dash mat to provide clearance. This
service will be performed at no charge to you.
WHAT YOU SHOULD DO
Please contact your Chevrolet dealer as soon as possible to arrange a service date and so the
dealer may order the necessary parts for the repair. Instructions for making this correction have
been sent to your dealer. The labor time necessary to perform this service correction is
approximately 15 minutes. Please ask your dealer if you wish to know how much additional time
will be needed to schedule and process your vehicle.
The enclosed owner reply card identifies your vehicle. Presentation of this card to your dealer will
assist in making the necessary correction in the shortest possible time. If you have sold or traded
your vehicle, please let us know by completing the postage paid reply card and returning it to us.
Your Chevrolet dealer is best equipped to provide service to ensure that your vehicle is corrected
as promptly as possible. If, however you take your vehicle to your dealer on the agreed service
date, and they do not remedy this condition that date or within five (5) days, we recommend you
contact the Chevrolet Customer Assistance Center by calling 1-800-222-1020.
After contacting your dealer and the Customer Assistance Center, if you are still not satisfied that
we have done our best to remedy this condition without charge and within a reasonable time, you
may wish to write the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 400 Seventh
Street, S.W., Washington, D.C. 20590 or call 1-800-424-9393 (Washington D.C. residents use
202-366-0123).
We are sorry to cause you this inconvenience; however, we have taken this action in the interest of
your safety and continue satisfaction with our products.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Throttle Cable/Linkage: >
NHTSA96V057000 > Mar > 96 > Recall 96V057000: Throttle Binding
Throttle Cable/Linkage: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 96V057000: Throttle Binding
THESE VEHICLES WERE ASSEMBLED WITH THE THROTTLE CABLE CONTACTING THE
DASH MAT WHICH COULD BIND THE THROTTLE. THIS DOES NOT MEET WITH THE
MAXIMUM RETURN TIMES REQUIRED BY FEDERAL MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARD
NO. 124, "ACCELERATOR CONTROL SYSTEMS." CONSEQUENCE OF NON-COMPLIANCE:
THE ENGINE SPEED MAY NOT RETURN TO IDLE INCREASING THE POTENTIAL FOR A
VEHICLE ACCIDENT. DEALERS WILL INSPECT FOR ADEQUATE THROTTLE CABLE TO
DASH MAT CLEARANCE, AND IF THERE IS INSUFFICIENT CLEARANCE, CUT OUT A
PORTION OF THE DASH MAT TO PROVIDE PROPER CLEARANCE.
SYSTEM: FUEL; THROTTLE LINKAGES AND CONTROL; FMVSS NO. 124.
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: PICKUP TRUCKS, CAB/CHASSIS, UTILITY AND MULTI-PURPOSE
TRUCKS EQUIPPED WITH GASOLINE ENGINES.
NOTE: OWNERS WHO TAKE THEIR VEHICLES TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER ON AN
AGREED UPON SERVICE DATE AND DO NOT RECEIVE THE FREE REMEDY WITHIN A
REASONABLE TIME, SHOULD CONTACT CHEVROLET AT 1-800-222-1020 OR GMC AT
1-800-462-8782. ALSO CONTACT THE NATIONAL HIGHWAY TRAFFIC SAFETY
ADMINISTRATION'S AUTO SAFETY HOTLINE AT 1-800-424-9393.
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C10 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C20 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK C30
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K10 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K20 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK K30
1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK SUBURBAN 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK TAHOE 1995 GMC C15
1995 GMC C25 1995 GMC C35 1995 GMC SIERRA 1995 GMC SUBURBAN 1995 GMC YUKON
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C10 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C20 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK C30
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K10 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K20 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK K30
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK SUBURBAN 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK TAHOE 1996 GMC C15
1996 GMC C25 1996 GMC C35 1996 GMC SIERRA 1996 GMC SUBURBAN 1996 GMC YUKON
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6607
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Description and Operation
The accelerator control system is a control cable type attached at one end to an accelerator pedal
assembly. On the other end is the throttle valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6608
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Testing and Inspection
Check for correct cable routing, or binding. Correct as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6609
Throttle Cable/Linkage: Service and Repair
Throttle Cable Routing
Accelerator Cable Routing Bracket
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the throttle cable from the throttle lever. 2. Remove the accelerator cable from the
engine cable bracket. 3. Remove the accelerator cable from the cable routing bracket. 4. Remove
the accelerator cable from the accelerator pedal (2). 5. Remove the accelerator cable from the
dash panel (1).
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Cable/Linkage >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6610
1. Install the accelerator cable from the dash panel (1). 2. Install the accelerator cable from the
accelerator pedal (2). 3. Install the accelerator cable from the cable routing bracket. 4. Install the
accelerator cable from the engine cable bracket. 5. Install the throttle cable from the throttle lever.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications
Throttle Position Sensor: Specifications
Screw assemblies ................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6614
Engine Side, LH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Throttle Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Throttle Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6633
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6643
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6649
TP Sensor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6650
Throttle Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Diagram
The non-adjustable Throttle Position (TP) sensor is mounted on the throttle body assembly
opposite the throttle lever. The TP sensor senses the throttle valve angle and relays that
information to the VCM. Knowledge of throttle angle is one of the inputs needed by the VCM to
generate the required injector control signals (pulses). For further information on replacement, refer
to TP Sensor. See: Service and Repair
Legend
(1) Throttle Body Assembly. (2) IAC Valve Assembly 0-ring. (3) IAC Valve Assembly Attaching
Screw. (4) Idle Air Control (IAC) Valve Assembly. (5) TP Sensor 0-ring (6) Throttle Position (TP)
Sensor. (7) TP Sensor Attaching Screw.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position (TP) Sensor
When the VCM detects a malfunction with the Throttle Position (TP) sensor circuits, the following
Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)s will set:
^ DTC P0121 circuit performance
^ DTC P0122 circuit low.
^ DTC P0123 circuit high.
^ DTC P1121 intermittent circuit high.
^ DTC P1122 intermittent circuit low.
Refer to Diagnostic Tables. See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Throttle Position (TP) Sensor > Page 6653
Throttle Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Throttle Position Sensor Output
This check should be performed when Throttle Position (TP) sensor attaching parts have been
replaced. A scan tool can be used to read the TP signal output voltage.
1. Connect digital voltmeter J 39200 from TP sensor connector terminal B (BLk wire) to terminal C
(DK Blue wire). Jumpers for terminal access can
be made using terminals 1214836 and 12014837.
2. With ignition ON, engine stopped, the TP signal voltage should be less than 1.25V if more than
1.25V verify free throttle movement. If still more
than 1.25V, replace TP sensor.
3. Remove the voltmeter and jumpers, reconnect the TP sensor connector to the sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6654
Throttle Position Sensor: Service and Repair
Throttle Position Sensor Electrical Connector
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
CAUTION: The Throttle Position (TP) sensor is an electrical component. Do not soak the TP
sensor in any liquid cleaner or solvent, as damage may result.
1. Remove the air cleaner and adapter. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector releasing locking tab.
3. Remove the two TP sensor attaching screw assemblies. 4. Remove the TP sensor from throttle
body assembly. 5. Remove the TP sensor seal.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the TP sensor seal over throttle shaft. 2. With throttle valve closed, install the TP sensor
on the throttle shaft. Rotate counterclockwise to align mounting holes. 3. Install the two TP sensor
attaching screw assemblies.
Tighten ^
Tighten the screw assemblies to 2.0 Nm (18.0 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Fuel Delivery and Air Induction > Throttle Position Sensor >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6655
4. Connect the electrical connector. 5. Install the air cleaner and adapter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Firing Order > Component Information >
Specifications > Ignition Firing Order
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Number One Cylinder >
Component Information > Locations > Number 1 Cylinder Location
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators
> System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Crankshaft Rotation
Crankshaft Rotation (Typical Crankshaft Pulley)
Crankshaft rotation is clockwise when viewed from in front of the crankshaft pulley as shown in the
generic image.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Timing > Timing Marks and Indicators
> System Information > Locations > Crankshaft Rotation > Page 6670
Timing Marks and Indicators: Locations Timing Marks
The ignition timing is completely controlled by the Vehicle Control Module (VCM). No timing
reference marks are provided.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
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Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6675
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6676
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6677
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6678
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6679
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6680
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6681
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6682
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6683
Engine View, Rear
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6686
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6687
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6688
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6689
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6690
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6691
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6692
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6693
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6694
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6695
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6710
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6711
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6712
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6713
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6714
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6715
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6716
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6717
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6718
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Camshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6721
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 >
Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6739
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6740
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6741
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6742
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6743
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6744
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A >
Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6745
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6751
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6752
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6753
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6754
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6755
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6756
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar >
98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6757
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6758
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
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Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6792
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6793
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6794
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6795
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 6796
1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable
CHEVROLET 71-65-40
Issued: 05/01/97
SMU - SECTION 6E - REVISED ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND
OPERATION
SUBJECT: SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE - SECTION 6E - ENGINE CONTROLS REVISED
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION
MODELS: 1995-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, GMT600, P MODELS 1996-97
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L ENGINE (VINS W, M, R, J - RPOS L35,
L30, L31, L29)
THIS BULLETIN IS BEING ISSUED TO INFORM TECHNICIANS OF A REVISION TO THE
ENHANCED IGNITION SYSTEM DESCRIPTION AND OPERATION. THE DISTRIBUTOR IS
NOW REPAIRABLE. TECHNICIANS WILL BE REFERRED TO DISTRIBUTOR OVERHAUL IN
ENGINE ELECTRICAL FOR PROPER REPAIR AND REPLACEMENT OF ALL COMPONENTS.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 6801
Distributor: Technical Service Bulletins Ignition - Distributor Service Kits Now Available
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 77-64-04
Date: April, 1997
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Distributor Service Kits
Models:
1995 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Utility Models with 4.3L OBDII Engines ONLY (VIN W - RPO L35)
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada 1997 Chevrolet and GMC
C/K, M/L, S/T; P, G 1997 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L Engines (VINs W, X, M,
R, J - RPOs L35, LF6, L3O, L31, L29)
Service kits are now available to field service Distributor Assemblies.
Important:
Fastening screws have pre-applied thread locking adhesive and should be discarded after removal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 6802
1995 4.3L L35 OBDII Distributor Assemblies are now serviced with 1996 Distributor Assemblies
(P/N 1104050). Installation instructions are included with each replacement assembly and must be
followed.
The following Service Kits are now available:
Important:
Removed fasteners are not to be re-used. Always use the new fasteners supplied in each kit.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Ignition System - Distributor Is Now Repairable > Page 6803
Warranty Information
For Vehicles repaired under warranty use the table shown.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6804
Distributor: Specifications
Distributor clamp and bolt ....................................................................................................................
.................................................. 27 N.m (20 lbs. ft.) Distributor cap screws ........................................
....................................................................................................................... 4.5-5.0 N.m (40-45 lbs.
in.)
Distributor rotor ....................................................................................................................................
................................................... 2 N.m (20 lbs. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6805
Distributor: Locations
Top of Engine, at rear, near Bulkhead
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6806
Distributor: Application and ID
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Distributor Operation
Distributor: Description and Operation Distributor Operation
DISTRIBUTORS
Distributor
This ignition system includes the distributor, hall effect switch, ignition coil, secondary wires, spark
plugs, knock sensor and crankshaft position sensor. The ignition system is controlled by the vehicle
control module (VCM). The VCM monitors information from various engine sensors, computes the
desired spark timing and controls the dwell and firing of the ignition coil via an ignition control line to
the coil driver.
The distributor connects the ignition coil and spark plugs through secondary wires. The rotor directs
the spark to the appropriate cylinder. The distributor has a hall effect switch that connects to the
VCM through the primary engine harness and provides cylinder identification information.
Identification
The part number is pin stamped into the plastic base (directly below the high tension terminals and
next to the three pin camshaft sensor connection.)
Ignition Coil
The coil driver controls the current flow in the primary winding of the ignition coil when signaled by
the VCM. The interconnects are made by the primary engine harness. The ignition coil can
generate up to 35,000 volts and connects to the distributor through a secondary wire.
Secondary Wires
The secondary wires carry voltage between the ignition coil, distributor, and spark plugs. The
secondary wire connections form a tight seal that prevents voltage arching.
Hall Effect Switch
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Crankshaft Position Sensor
The crankshaft position sensor connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and
provides crank- shaft reference information to the VCM for spark and fuel delivery. The crankshaft
position sensor is located in the front cover behind the crankshaft balancer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Distributor Operation > Page 6809
Distributor: Description and Operation General Description
Distributor
The distributor is actually an assembly that contains the Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor, cap,
rotor and shaft. The distributor is splined by a helical gear to the camshaft and provides spark to
each spark plug wire. when servicing the distributor, it is critical to ensure proper cap sealing to the
distributor body and correct installation to the camshaft. If the distributor is installed a tooth off in
relation to the camshaft, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) will set. The distributor is not repairable
and must be replaced as an assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Description and Operation > Page 6810
Distributor: Testing and Inspection
NOTICE: Discoloration of the cap and some whitish build up around the cap terminals is normal.
Yellowing of the rotor cap, darkening and some carbon build-up under the rotor segment is normal.
Replacement of the cap and rotor is not necessary unless there is a driveablity concern.
Inspect 1. Cap for cracks, tiny holes or carbon tracks between cap terminal traces. Carbon tracks
can be diagnosed by using an ohmmeter. With the cap
removed, place one base ohmmeter lead on a cap terminal. Use the other lead to probe all other
terminals and the center carbon ball. Move the base lead to the next terminal and probe all other
leads. Continue until all secondary terminals have been tested. If there are any non-infinite
readings, replace the cap.
2. Cap for excessive build up of corrosion on the terminals. Scrape them clean or replace the cap.
Some build up is normal.
3. Rotor segment. Replace the rotor if there is excessive wear on the rotor segment or the plastic
under the segment or staked post is melted. Some
looseness of the rotor segment is normal and does not cause performance problems.
4. Shaft for shaft-to-bushing looseness. Insert the shaft in the housing. If the shaft wobbles, replace
the housing assembly.
5. Housing for cracks or damage.
^ Refer to Computers and Control Systems for ignition system diagnosis. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Distributor: Adjustments Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 6813
Distributor: Adjustments Timing Adjustment
NOTICE: The distributor is located in a fixed, non-adjustable position. No attempt should be made
to adjust the engine base timing by rotating the distributor. Attempting to do so may result in engine
cross-fire and mis-fire conditions.
The distributor ignition system has no provision for timing adjustment. The base timing is preset
when the engine is manufactured and no adjustment is possible.
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from its Initial position. if the intake manifold, cylinder head,
crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "procedure B"
must be followed to correctly install the distributor. A Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) code may
also indicate an Incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur.
Procedure B must then be used.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 6814
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure A
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure A
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Spark plug and coil leads from the distributor cap. 2. Three wire hail effect switch plug from the
base of the distributor. 3. Two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 4. Distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil to note the position of the rotor segment in relation to the distributor
housing. Identify the mark with a 1. B. The distributor housing and intake manifold should also be
marked with a grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
5. Mounting clamp hold down bolt. 6. Distributor.
^ As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction, 42°. This will appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting
the position of the rotor segment, by placing a second mark on the base of the distributor, will aid in
achieving proper rotor alignment during distributor installation. Be sure to identify the second mark
on the base with the number 2.
Install or Connect
Distributor Alignment Indicator
A. If the original distributor is to be replaced, rather than repaired, remove the new distributor cap.
Using a grease pencil, place two marks on the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 6815
new distributor housing in the same location as the two marks on the original housing.
B. When installing the distributor, align the rotor segment with the number 2 mark on the base of
the distributor. Guide the distributor into place,
making sure the grease pencil marks on the distributor housing and the intake manifold are in line.
As the the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction,
42°. ONCE THE DISTRIBUT0R IS COMPLETELY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the number 1 mark on the base. If the rotor segment is not aligned with the number 1 mark,
the gear teeth of the distributor and camshaft have meshed one or more teeth out of time. To
correct this condition, remove the distributor and re-install it following the procedure at step B.
1. Distributor cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten the screws as the boss may strip. 2.
Distributor mounting clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch connector to base of the distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to
the distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly. You now must refer to procedure; B or proper distributor
installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 6816
Distributor: Adjustments Procedure B
Distributor Installation and Removal
Procedure B
Remove or Disconnect
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF." ^
Bring the engine up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of cylinder number 1. Make sure it is on the
compression stroke.
A. Remove the distributor cap screws and cap to expose the rotor.
Rotor Location
B. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white painted alignment
line on the lower portion of the shaft housing.
The rotor segment should point to the cap hold area as shown in the illustration.
C. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft in the engine in the mating drive tab in
the distributor. D. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the the spark plug towers are
perpendicular to the center line of the engine.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information
> Adjustments > Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment > Page 6817
Installed Rotor Position
E. ONCE The DISTRIBUTOR IS FULLY SEATED, the rotor segment should be aligned with the
pointer cast into the distributor base. This
pointer will have a "8" cast into it, indicating the distributor is to be used in a 8 cylinder engine. if the
rotor segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the
distributor and camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again
to achieve proper alignment.
Install or Connect
1. Cap and mounting screws. Do not overtighten as the boss may strip. 2. Distributor mounting
clamp and tighten to proper torque.
Tighten ^
Distributor clamp and bolt to 27 Nm (20 lbs. ft.)
^ Distributor cap screws to 4.5-5.0 Nm (40-45 lbs. in.)
3. Three wire hall effect switch plug to base of distributor. 4. Spark plug and coil leads to the
distributor cap.
^ If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is found, the
distributor has been installed incorrectly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Removal & Installation
Distributor Removal
1. Remove the ignition coil wire harness from the ignition coil and distributor cap.
2. Remove two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing. 3. Distributor cap. 4. Remove the
distributor clamp bolt. 5. Remove the distributor and the distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6820
6. Remove the distributor gasket and discard.
Distributor Installation
1. Bring cylinder number one piston to Top Dead Center (TDC) of compression stroke.
2. Install the distributor cap screws. 3. Install the distributor cap.
4. Install a NEW distributor gasket onto the distributor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6821
5. Align the indent hole on the driven gear with the paint mark on the distributor housing. 5. Ensure
that the distributor rotor segment points to the cap hold area.
7. Align the slotted tang in the oil pump driveshaft with the distributor driveshaft. Rotate the oil
pump driveshaft with a screwdriver if necessary. 8. Align the flat (1) in the distributor housing
toward the front of the engine. 9. Install the distributor and distributor clamp.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6822
10. Once the distributor is fully seated, align the distributor rotor segment with the number 8 pointer
that is cast into the distributor base. 11. If the distributor rotor segment does not come within a few
degrees of the number 8 pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor and camshaft
may be off a tooth or more. Repeat the procedure in order to achieve proper alignment.
Notice: Use the correct fastener in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the correct
part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the use of
thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use paints,
lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces unless specified. These
coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use the
correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid damage
to parts and systems.
12. Install the distributor clamp bolt. Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to 25 Nm (18 ft. lbs.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6823
13. Install the distributor cap onto the distributor. 14. Install the NEW distributor cap screws. Do not
overtighten the NEW distributor cap screws. Tighten the distributor cap screws to 2.4 Nm (21 in.
lbs.).
15. Install the ignition coil wire harness.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6824
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Disassembly and Assembly
Distributor Components
NOTICE: The distributor driven gear can be installed in two positions. Make sure when installing
the gear that the dimple found below the roll pin hole in the gear is on the same side as the rotor
segment. The dimple will not align directly with the rotor segment if not, the gear is Installed 180°
off and a no start condition may occur. Premature wear and damage may result.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two screws holding the cap to the housing. 2. Cap from the housing. 3. Two screws from the
rotor.
Vane Wheel In Distributor
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6825
4. Rotor.
^ Note which locating holes (B) the rotor was removed from.
5. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. 6. Hall effect switch.
^ The square cut hole (C) in the vane wheel must be aligned with the hall effect switch in order to
remove the switch.
7. Roil pin from the shaft.
A. Note the dimple located below the roil pin hole on the one side of the gear. The dimple will be
used to properly orient the gear on the shaft
during assembly.
8. Driven gear, washer, and tang washer. 9. Shaft.
^ If the shaft can't be removed from the distributor housing due to varnish buildup, use a cloth
dampened with varnish remover to clean the shaft.
NOTICE: Failure to keep cleaning agents away from the hall effect switch may result in premature
failure.
Install or Connect
1. Hall effect switch. 2. Two screws holding the hall effect switch. Do not overtighten as the base
may strip.
3. Shaft. 4. Tang washer, washer, and driven gear.
^ When the driven gear is properly installed the dimple located below the roll pin hole, in the driven
gear, will be on the same side as the rotor segment when the rotor is installed in the distributor. If
the driven gear is installed incorrectly, the dimple will be on the opposite of the rotor segment.
5. Roll pin. 6. Rotor.
^ "A" shows the mounting holes. "B" shows the locating holes.
7. Two screws holding rotor.
Tighten ^
Screws to 2.0 Nm (20 lbs. In.)
Installation of the distributor into the engine will require the distributor cap off of the assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6826
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Alignment/Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment
Description
TEST PROCEDURE
The ignition timing cannot be adjusted. The distributor may need adjusting to prevent crossfire. To
insure proper alignment of the distributor, perform the following:
1. With the ignition OFF, install a scan tool to the DLC. 2. Start the engine and bring to normal
operating temperature.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
3. Increase engine speed to 1000 RPM. 4. Monitor the Cam Retard Offset. 5. If the Cam Retard
indicates a value of 0° +/-2°, the distributor is properly adjusted. 6. If the Cam Retard does not
indicate 0° +/-2°, the distributor must be adjusted.
ADJUSTING PROCEDURE
1. With the engine OFF, slightly loosen the distributor hold down bolt.
IMPORTANT: Cam Retard Offset reading will not be accurate below 1000 RPM.
2. Start the engine and raise engine speed to 1000 RPM. 3. Using a scan tool monitor Cam Retard
Offset. 4. Rotate the distributor as follows:
4.1. To compensate for a negative reading, rotate the distributor in the counterclockwise direction.
4.2. To compensate for a positive reading, rotate the distributor in the clockwise direction.
5. Repeat step 4 until 0° +/-2°, is obtained. 6. Turn the ignition OFF. 7. Tighten the distributor
hold-down bolt to 3 Nm (25 lb. ft.). 8. Start the engine, raise engine speed to 1000 RPM and
recheck Camshaft Retard Offset.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6827
Distributor: Service and Repair Distributor Assembly Replacement
Removal Procedure
NOTICE: If the distributor is removed from the engine, It can be re-installed using "procedure A" as
long as the crankshaft has not rotated from the original position. If the intake manifold, cylinder
head, crankshaft, camshaft, timing gear or complete engine was removed or replaced, "Procedure
B" must be followed in order to correctly install the distributor. A DTC code may also indicate an
incorrectly installed distributor and engine or distributor damage may occur. Procedure B must then
be used.
1. Turn OFF the ignition switch. 2. Remove the spark plug and the ignition coil wires from
distributor cap. 3. Remove the three-wire hall effect switch connector from the base of the
distributor. 4. Remove the two screws holding the distributor cap to the housing.
5. Remove the distributor cap.
A. Use a grease pencil in order to note the position of the rotor in relation to the distributor housing.
Identify the mark with the number 1. B. Mark the distributor housing and the intake manifold with a
grease pencil for proper alignment when reinstalling.
6. Remove the mounting clamp hold down bolt. 7. Remove the distributor.
8. As the distributor is being removed from the engine, you will notice the rotor move in a
counter-clockwise direction about 42 degrees. This will
appear as slightly more than one clock position. Noting the position of the rotor segment by placing
a second mark on the base of the distributor will aid in achieving proper rotor alignment during the
distributor installation. Identify the second mark on the distributor housing at number 2.
Installation Procedure A
1. Remove the new distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6828
2. If installing a new distributor assembly, place two marks on the new distributor housing in the
same location as the two marks on the original
housing.
3. When installing the distributor, align the rotor with mark made at location 2..
4. Guide the distributor into place, making sure the mounting hole in the distributor hold down base
is aligned over the mounting hole in the intake
manifold.
5. As the distributor is being installed, you will notice the rotor will move in a clockwise direction
about 42 degrees. 6. Once the distributor is completely seated, the rotor segment should be
aligned with mark on the base in location number 1. If the rotor segment is
not aligned with the number 1 mark, the gear teeth of the distributor and the camshaft have
meshed one or more teeth out of time. In order to correct the condition, remove the distributor and
reinstall it.
7. Install the cap and the mounting screws. Do not overtighten as they may strip.
Tighten Tighten the distributor cap screws to 5 Nm (45 lb in).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
8. Install the distributor clamp bolt.
Tighten Tighten the distributor clamp bolt to to 27 Nm (20 lb ft).
NOTICE: Use the correct fasteners in the correct location. Replacement fasteners must be the
correct part number for that application. Fasteners requiring replacement or fasteners requiring the
use of thread locking compound or sealant are identified in the service procedure. Do not use
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6829
paints, lubricants, or corrosion inhibitors on fasteners or fastener joint surfaces inless specified.
These coatings affect fastener torque and joint clamping force and may damage the fastener. Use
the correct tightening sequence and specifications when installing fasteners in order to avoid
damage to parts and systems.
9. Install the three wire hall effect switch connector to the base of the distributor.
10. Install the spark plug and the ignition coil wires to the distributor cap.
Important: If a check engine light is illuminated after installing the distributor and a DTC P1345 is
found, the distributor has been installed incorrectly. Refer to procedure B for proper distributor
installation.
Installation Procedure B
1. Rotate the number 1 cylinder up to Top Dead Center (TDC) of the compression stroke. 2.
Remove the distributor cap screws and the distributor cap to expose the rotor.
3. Align the pre-drilled indent hole in the distributor driven gear with the white alignment line on the
lower portion of the shaft housing.
4. The rotor should point to the cap hold down mount nearest the flat side of the housing.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Distributor, Ignition > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Distributor Removal & Installation > Page 6830
5. Using a long screw driver, align the oil pump drive shaft to the drive tab of the distributor. 6.
Guide the distributor in place, ensuring that the spark plug towers are perpendicular to the
centerline of engine. 7. Once the distributor is fully seated, the rotor segment should be aligned
with the pointer cast into the distributor base. This pointer will have a 6 or
8 cast into it, indicating that the distributor is to be used on a 6 or 8 cylinder engine. If the rotor
segment does not come within a few degrees of the pointer, the gear mesh between the distributor
and the camshaft may be off a tooth or more. If this is the case, repeat the procedure again in order
to achieve proper alignment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Hall Effect Sensor, Ignition > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Hall Effect Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications
Spark Plug Wire: Specifications
0-15 inch cable ....................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 3,000 - 10,000 ohms.
15-25 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 4,000 - 15,000 ohms.
25-35 inch cable ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................. 6,000 - 20,000 ohms.
Longer wires should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6837
Spark Plug Wire: Locations
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
Wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when wires have been
disconnected or when replacement of the wires is necessary. Failure to route the wires properly
can lead to radio ignition noise and crossfiring of the plugs or shorting of the leads to ground
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6838
Spark Plug Wire: Service Precautions
Service Precautions
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
NOTE: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of being
fully seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the in
stalled boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core erosion
and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6839
Spark Plug Wire: Testing and Inspection
VISUAL INSPECTION
1. Inspect the routing of the wires. Improper routing can cause crossfiring. 2. Inspect each wire for
any signs of cracks or splits in the wire. 3. Inspect each boot for signs of tears, piercing, arc
through, or carbon tracking. If the boot needs to be replaced, twist it a half-turn in either direction
to break the seal before pulling on the boot to remove the wire.
SPARK PLUG WIRE RESISTANCE TEST
1. Disconnect both ends of each wire. Make sure the wire terminals are clean. 2. Set ohmmeter on
the high scale and connect it to each end of the wire being tested. Twist the wire gently while
watching ohmmeter. 3. If ohmmeter reads above 30,000 ohms (no matter how long the wire is), or
fluctuates from infinity any value, replace the wire. 4. If the resistance of any wire is not within the
following ranges, replace the wire being tested.
- 0 to 381 mm (0 to 15 in.) wire - 3,000 to 10,000 ohms.
- 381 mm to 635 mm (15 in. to 25 in.) wire - 4,000 to 15,000 ohms.
- 635 mm to 889 mm (25 in. to 35 in.) wire - 6,000 to 20,000 ohms.
- Longer wire - should measure about 5,000 to 10,000 ohms per foot.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6840
Spark Plug Wire: Service and Repair
Spark Plug Wire Routing Right Side
Spark Plug Wire Routing Left Side
SERVICE CAUTIONS
1. Twist boots one-half turn before removing. 2. When removing the boot, do not use pliers or other
tools that could tear the boot. 3. Do not force anything between the wire and the boot, or through
the silicone jacket of the wiring. 4. Do not pull on the wires to remove the boot. Pull on the boot or
use a tool designed for this purpose. 5. Special care should be used when installing spark plug
boots to ensure the metal terminal within the boot is fully seated on the spark plug terminal
and the boot has not moved on the wire.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug Wire <--> [Ignition Cable] >
Component Information > Specifications > Page 6841
WARNING: If boot to wire movement has occurred, the boot will give a false visual impression of
being seated. Make sure that boots have been properly assembled by pushing sideways on the
installed boots. Failure to properly seat the terminal onto the spark plug will lead to wire core
erosion and result in an engine misfire or crossfire condition, and possible internal damage to the
engine.
^ If they have been correctly installed, a stiff boot with only slight looseness will be noted. If the
terminal has not been properly seated on the spark plug, only the resistance of the boot will be felt
when pushing sideways.
SPARK PLUG WIRE REPLACEMENT
Spark plug wire routings must be kept intact during service and followed exactly when spark plug
wires have been disconnected or when replacement of the spark plug wires is necessary. Failure to
route the spark plug wires properly can lead to radio noise and crossfiring of the spark plugs, or
shorting of the leads to ground. The correct routing is shown in the images.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications
Ignition Coil: Electrical Specifications
COIL PACK RESISTANCE SPECIFICATIONS:
^ The OEM service manual does not give a specification for coil resistance and recommends to
test all other ignition components first and then switch affected coil with a good known coil and
retest.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Specifications > Electrical Specifications > Page 6846
Ignition Coil: Mechanical Specifications
Ignition coil hold-down studs/bolts
............................................................................................................................................................
27 Nm (20 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 6849
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6850
ICM
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6851
Ignition Coil: Description and Operation
Ignition Control Driver (ICD) Module And Ignition Coil
The Ignition Coil Driver Module is mounted on a bracket next to the coil. The Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) signals the Ignition Control Driver (ICD) to turn "ON" primary current to the ignition
coil by pulling the Ignition Control (IC) line high (4 volts). The IC turns the primary current "ON" and
"OFF" by applying and removing the ground to the primary winding at the appropriate time. This
module is of 'minimum function" and does not contain backup calibrations that would allow the
engine to continue to rim if the IC signal is lost.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6852
Ignition Coil: Testing and Inspection
IGNITION COIL TEST
^ Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Disconnect the distributor lead and wiring from the ignition coil.
CAUTION: Do not Insert the J 39200 probe into the ignition coil connectors. The female terminals
could be spread and deformed, resulting In intermittent operation of the coil. Be sure to make
contact with only the front edge of the terminals.
2. Connect an ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 1. Use the high scale. The reading should be
infinite. If not, replace the coil. 3. Connect the ohmmeter as shown in Figure, step 2. Use the low
scale. The reading should be 0.2 - 0.5 ohms. If not, replace the coil. 4. Connect the ohmmeter as
shown in Figure, step 3. Use the high scale. The meter should read 5k - 25k ohms. If not, replace
the coil. 5. Reconnect the distributor lead and wiring to the coil.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Coil > Component Information >
Locations > Page 6853
Ignition Coil: Service and Repair
Ignition Coil
Ignition Coil Mounting
Remove or Disconnect
NOTE: Make sure the ignition switch is "OFF."
1. Wiring connectors at the side of the coil. 2. Coil wire. 3. Studs/bolts holding the coil bracket and
coil to the manifold. 4. Coil bracket and coil.
^ Drill and punch out the two rivets holding the coil to the bracket.
5. Coil from the bracket.
Install or Connect
NOTE: A replacement coil kit comes with two screws to attach the coil to the bracket.
1. Coil to the bracket with two screws. 2. Coil and bracket to the intake manifold with studs/bolts.
Tighten ^
Ignition coil hold-down studs/bolts to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.).
3. Coil wire. 4. Wiring connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
Ignition Control Driver (ICD) Module And Ignition Coil
The Ignition Coil Driver Module is mounted on a bracket next to the coil. The Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) signals the Ignition Control Driver (ICD) to turn "ON" primary current to the ignition
coil by pulling the Ignition Control (IC) line high (4 volts). The IC turns the primary current "ON" and
"OFF" by applying and removing the ground to the primary winding at the appropriate time. This
module is of 'minimum function" and does not contain backup calibrations that would allow the
engine to continue to rim if the IC signal is lost.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Ignition Control Module > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 6857
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
If the vehicle cranks for at least 5 seconds and the Engine Control Module doesn't see a referance
signal, some Models will set a code, 42 (Hard) or 12 (Soft). If your vehicle has one of these codes,
begin with the Diagnostic System Check in Computers and Controls, then proceed to the Trouble
Code Chart (Yes, some vehicles have a DTC Chart for Code 12).
If the vehicle does not set a code, begin with the Diagnostic System Check, and it will send you to
a Diagnostic Chart that checks for your particular condition.
These types of tests are found under Computers and Control Systems. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 6861
Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6864
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6865
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6866
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6867
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6868
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6869
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6870
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6871
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6886
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6887
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6888
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6889
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6890
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6891
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6892
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6893
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6894
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6895
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6896
Knock Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6897
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Knock Sensor > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 6898
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation
Ignition Control Module: Description and Operation
Ignition Control Driver (ICD) Module And Ignition Coil
The Ignition Coil Driver Module is mounted on a bracket next to the coil. The Vehicle Control
Module (VCM) signals the Ignition Control Driver (ICD) to turn "ON" primary current to the ignition
coil by pulling the Ignition Control (IC) line high (4 volts). The IC turns the primary current "ON" and
"OFF" by applying and removing the ground to the primary winding at the appropriate time. This
module is of 'minimum function" and does not contain backup calibrations that would allow the
engine to continue to rim if the IC signal is lost.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Relays and Modules - Ignition System >
Ignition Control Module > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 6903
Ignition Control Module: Testing and Inspection
If the vehicle cranks for at least 5 seconds and the Engine Control Module doesn't see a referance
signal, some Models will set a code, 42 (Hard) or 12 (Soft). If your vehicle has one of these codes,
begin with the Diagnostic System Check in Computers and Controls, then proceed to the Trouble
Code Chart (Yes, some vehicles have a DTC Chart for Code 12).
If the vehicle does not set a code, begin with the Diagnostic System Check, and it will send you to
a Diagnostic Chart that checks for your particular condition.
These types of tests are found under Computers and Control Systems. See: Computers and
Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Camshaft Position Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6909
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6910
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6911
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6912
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6913
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6914
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis > Page 6915
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6916
Camshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Camshaft position sensor retaining screw
........................................................................................................................................... 4-6 Nm
(35-53 lb. in.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6917
Engine View, Rear
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6920
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6921
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6922
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6924
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Camshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6941
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 6952
Camshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
Camshaft Position Sensor
The Camshaft Position (CMP) sensor is located within the distributor. It's operation is very similar to
the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor however it will provide one pulse per camshaft revolution (1x
signal). This signal is not detrimental to the driveability of the vehicle. The Vehicle Control Module
(VCM) utilizes this signal in conjunction with the crankshaft position to determine which cylinder(s)
are misfiring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Cam Signal
Camshaft Position Sensor: Testing and Inspection Cam Signal
The VCM uses this signal to determine the position of the #1 piston during its power stroke. This
signal is used by the VCM to calculate fuel injection mode of operation. A loss of this signal will set
DTC P0340.
If the cam signal is lost while the engine is running, the fuel injection system will shift to a
calculated fuel injection mode based on the last fuel injection pulse, and the engine will continue to
run. The engine can be restarted and will run in the calculated mode as long as the fault is present
Refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0340 Camshaft Position Sensor (CKP) Sensor Circuit.
See: Computers and Control Systems/Testing and Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Camshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Page 6955
Camshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. 2. Disconnect the electrical connector from the camshaft
position sensor. 3. Remove the camshaft position sensor retaining screw. 4. Remove the camshaft
position sensor.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
1. Install the camshaft position sensor. 2. Install the camshaft position sensor retaining screw,
torque to 4-6 Nm (35-53 lb. in.). 3. Connect the electrical connector. 4. Connect the negative
battery cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-06-04-014 >
Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Customer Interest Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 00-06-04-014 > Apr > 00 > Engine - No/Hard/Slow Start/Backfire/Kickback
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine - No/Hard/Slow
Start/Backfire/Kickback
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 00-06-04-014
Date: April, 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: No, Hard, or Slow Start, Backfire or "Kickback" During Crank/Start, "Grinding" or Unusual
Noises During Crank, DTC P0338 (Replace Crankshaft Position Sensor)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-2000 Chevrolet and GMC SIT Models 1996-2000
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G, P Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3 L, 5.0 L, 5.7 L
or 7.4 L Engine (VINs W, X, M, R, J RPOs L35, LF6, L30, L31, L29)
Condition: Some customers may comment on one or more of the following conditions:
^ Backfire during crank/start
^ "Kickback" during crank/start
^ "No" start
^ "Slow" or "hard" start/crank
^ "Grinding" or unusual noises during crank/start
^ Cracked or broken engine block at the starter boss
^ Broken starter drive housing
^ Broken starter ring gear on flywheel
^ Any combination of the above
Cause: A condition may exist that allows the crankshaft position sensor to command up to 50 extra
degrees of spark advance during engine cranking only. This in turn exposes the engine to higher
than normal cylinder pressures which may result in an inoperative condition to the starter drive
housing, the engine flywheel starter ring gear, or the engine block at the outside edge of the starter
boss.
Correction: Inspect for a stored powertrain DTC code P0338. This DTC will NOT illuminate the
"Service Engine Soon" light. If this code is stored, the Crankshaft Position Sensor, P/N 10456607,
MUST be replaced and the remaining components inspected for damage (engine block at the
starter boss, the starter drive housing, and the engine flywheel starter ring gear).
Notice:
When DTC code P0338 is set, failure to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor could result in
repeated inoperative conditions of the starter or flywheel.
Important:
Some flywheel wear is normal; broken or missing teeth and/or cracks, are not normal.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information:
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6973
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6974
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6975
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6976
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6977
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6978
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6979
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
Crankshaft Position Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345
(CKP/CMP) Diagnosis
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 61-65-60A
Date: March, 1998
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 6E - Engine Controls - Revised Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC S/T, M/L, C/K, G, P3 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada
with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L and 7.4L Engine (VINs W, M, R, J - RPOs L35, L30, L31, L29)
This bulletin is being revised to add the M/L and S/T models and also include page numbers in the
1996 and 1997 Service Manuals. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 61-65-60 (Section 6E Engine Fuel & Emission).
This bulletin revises the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P1345. When diagnosing this DTC, the
technician is instructed to use this revised DTC P1345 table and supporting text,
One diagnostic is to be used for the 4.3L V-6 engines. One diagnostic is to be used for the 5.0L,
5.7L and 7.4L V-6 engine. Camshaft Retard Offset Adjustment procedure for the V-8 engine only.
The Service Manuals and the appropriate page numbers are listed as shown:
1996
^ Pages 6E-270 and 271 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-269 and 270 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-748 and 749 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-261 and 262 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-268 and 269 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-638 and 639 - S/T Truck 4.3L
1997
^ Pages 6E-271 and 272 - G Van 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-735 and 736 - G Van 5.0L. 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-295 and 296 - C/K Truck 4.3L
^ Pages 6E-799 and 800 - C/K Truck 5.0L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6E-278 and 279 - M/L Van 4.3L
^ Pages 3B-286 and 289 - P3 Truck 4.3L, 5.7L, 7.4L
^ Pages 6-1094 and 1095 - S/T Truck 4.3L
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6985
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6986
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6987
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6988
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6989
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6990
DTC P1345 CKP/CMP CORRELATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for
Crankshaft Position Sensor: > 61-65-60A > Mar > 98 > Engine Controls - Revised DTC P1345 (CKP/CMP) Diagnosis >
Page 6991
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS CAMSHAFT RETARD OFFSET ADJUSTMENT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6992
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Specifications
Crankshaft Position Sensor mounting bolts
................................................................................................................................................. 8 Nm
(71 lb. In.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 6993
Engine Side, RH
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6996
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6997
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6998
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 6999
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7000
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7001
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7002
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7019
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7020
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7021
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7022
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7025
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7027
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Crankshaft Position Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7028
Crankshaft Position Sensor: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
The Crankshaft Position (CKP) Sensor is located in the front engine cover and is perpendicular to
the crankshaft target wheel. The air gap between the sensor and the wheel is preset and not
adjustable. The target wheel has three slots 60° apart and is keyed to the crankshaft. As the target
wheel rotates, the slots passing by the sensor create a change in the magnetic field of the sensor
which results in an induced voltage pulse. One revolution of the crankshaft results in three pulses
(3x signal). Based on these pulses, the VCM is able to determine crankshaft position and engine
speed. The VCM then activates the fuel injector and provides a spark to the Distributor. The
relation between the crankshaft position sensor and the target wheel is crucial. The sensor must be
exactly perpendicular to the target wheel with the correct air gap.
OPERATION
The crankshaft position sensor provides the VCM with crankshaft speed and crankshaft position.
The VCM utilizes this information to determine if an engine Misfire is present. The VCM monitors
the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) sensor for momentarily drop in crankshaft speed to
determine if a misfire is occurring. When the VCM detects a misfire, a Diagnostic Trouble Code
(DTC) P0300 will set. The VCM also monitors the CKP sensor signal circuit for malfunctions. The
VCM monitors CKP signal and the High and Low resolution signals. The VCM calculates these
signals to determine a ratio. When the VCM detects that the ratio is out of normal operating range,
the VCM will set a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0337 or a DTC P0338.
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Crankshaft Position Sensor: Service and Repair
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. Remove the electrical connector. 2. Remove the sensor hold down bolt. 3. Remove the sensor
from the timing cover.
NOTE: When installing or removing a crankshaft position (CKP) sensor make sure the sensor is
fully seated and held stationary in the front cover before torquing the hold down bolt into the front
cover. A sensor which is not seated may result in erratic operation and lead to the setting of false
codes.
4. Inspect the sensor O-ring for wear, cracks or leakage. Replace if necessary. Lube the new
O-ring with clean engine oil before installing.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
NOTE: Make certain that the Crankshaft Position (CKP) sensor mounting surfaces are clean and
free of burrs before installing the CKP sensor.
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1. Install the sensor into the timing cover. 2. Install the sensor hold down bolt.
Tighten ^
Tighten the hold down bolt to 8 Nm (71 lb. in.).
3. Install the electrical connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System > Hall
Effect Sensor, Ignition > Component Information > Description and Operation
Hall Effect Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The hall effect switch connects to the VCM through the primary engine harness and provides
cylinder identification information. The hall effect switch is located under the distributor cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest
for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest
for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page
7043
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest
for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page
7044
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest
for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page
7045
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 7051
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
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Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 7052
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition
Cylinder > Page 7053
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7054
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
The procedure has been updated by TSB# 73-01-09
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications
Knock Sensor: Specifications
Knock sensor .......................................................................................................................................
....................................................... 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Specifications > Page 7058
Knock Sensor: Locations
Engine View, Rear
LH side of Engine Block, below Exhaust Manifold, forward of Starter
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Knock Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7061
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7062
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7063
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7064
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7065
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7066
Knock Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7067
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7068
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7069
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7084
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7085
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7086
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7087
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7088
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7089
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7090
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7091
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7092
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7093
Knock Sensor Circuit
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7094
Knock Sensor: Description and Operation
Description
The Knock Sensor (KS) system is used to detect engine detonation The VCM will retard the spark
timing based on the signals from the KS module. The Knock Sensor(s) produce an AC voltage that
is sent to the KS module. The amount of AC voltage produced is proportional to the amount of
knock.
Operation
An operating engine produces a normal amount of engine mechanical vibration (Noise). The knock
sensor(s) will produce an AC voltage signal from this Noise. When an engine is operating, the VCM
will learn the minimum and maximum frequency of the noise the engine produces. When the VCM
determines that this frequency is less than or greater than the expected amount, a knock sensor
DTC will set.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Sensors and Switches - Ignition System >
Knock Sensor > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7095
Knock Sensor: Service and Repair
Diagram
Removal Procedure
NOTE: The knock sensor is located in areas of the cylinder head. On most applications, the knock
sensors are installed in a hole which is exposed to engine coolant. Care should be exercised when
servicing these sensors.
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Important: On knock sensors which are mounted in the end of the cylinder head draining the
cooling system will not be necessary.
2. Drain the cooling system. Refer to Draining and Filling Cooling System. 3. Remove the wiring
harness connector from knock sensor. 4. Remove the knock sensor from cylinder head.
Installation Procedure
Important: Do not use silicon tape as this will insulate the sensor from the engine block.
2. After applying a water base caulk to the sensor threads, install the knock sensor into the cylinder
head.
Tighten ^
Tighten to 19 Nm (14 lb. ft.).
2. Connect the negative battery cable. 3. Refill cooling system if required. Refer to Draining and
Filling Cooling System.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications
Spark Plug: Specifications
Spark plug type ....................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 41-932 Spark plug gap ................................................
.......................................................................................................................................................
0.060 inch Spark plugs (new cylinder head) ........................................................................................
........................................................................ 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) Spark plugs (used cylinder head) ...
............................................................................................................................................................
20 Nm (14 lb. ft.)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7099
Spark Plug: Description and Operation
DESCRIPTION
Resistor-type. tapered-seat spark plugs are used. No gasket is used on these plugs. These spark
plugs are a High Efficiency (HE) spark plug that has a fine wire electrode, nickel plated shell and a
platinum pad across from the electrode. These features give the HE spark plug long life durability.
Refer to Specifications or to the Vehicle Emissions Control Information label on the fan shroud for
correct gap information. See: Specifications
CONSTRUCTION
If the spark plug shell hex is not fully engaged in the spark plug socket wrench, the socket may
cock at an angle and cause insulator cracking and/or breakage during plug installation or removal.
OPERATION
Normal or average service is assumed to be a mixture of idling, low speed, and high speed
operation with some of each making up the daily total driving. Occasional or intermittent high-speed
driving is essential to good spark plug performance. It provides increased and sustained
combustion heat that burns away any excess deposits of carbon or oxide that may have
accumulated from frequent idling or continual stop-and-go or slow-speed driving. Spark plugs are
protected by an insulating boot made of special heat-resistant material that covers the spark plug
terminal and extends downward over a portion of the plug insulation These boots prevent
flash-over with resultant missing of the engine, even though a film is allowed to accumulate on the
exposed portion of plug porcelains.
Do not mistake corona discharge for flash-over or a shorted insulator. Corona discharge is a steady
blue light appearing around the insulator. just above the shell crimp It is the visible evidence of a
high-tension field, and has no effect on ignition performance. Usually it can be detected only in
darkness. This discharge may repel dust particles, leaving a clear ring on the insulator just above
the shell. This ring is sometimes mistakenly regarded as evidence that combustion gases have
blown out between the shell and insulator.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7100
Spark Plug Diagnosis
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Ignition System > Spark Plug > Component Information >
Specifications > Page 7101
Spark Plug: Service and Repair
CAUTION
^ Allow the engine to cool before removing the spark plugs. Attempting to remove the plugs from a
hot engine may cause the plug to seize, causing damage to the cylinder head threads.
^ Clean the spark plug recess area before removing the plug. Failure to do so can result in engine
damage due to dirt or foreign material entering the cylinder head or contamination of the cylinder
head threads. Contaminated threads may prevent proper seating of a new plug.
^ Do not install plugs that are either hotter or colder than the heat range specified. Using plugs of
the wrong heat range can severely damage the engine.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
^ Make sure the ignition switch is OFF.
CAUTION: Twist the spark plug boot one-half turn to release it. Pull on the spark plug boot only. Do
not pull on the wire or the spark plug lead may be damaged.
1. Spark plug wires and boots.
^ Label the plug wires.
CAUTION: Be sure to use J 39358 or equivalent spark plug socket Failure to do so could cause
cracking of the insulator and arcing inside the plug, resulting in engine misfire.
2. Spark plugs using J 39358 or equivalent.
Inspect ^
Each spark plug for wear and gap.
^ Spark plugs should be gapped to 0.060 inch.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
CAUTION: Make sure each sparkplug threads smoothly into the cylinder head and is fully seated.
Cross-threading or falling to fully seat spark plugs can cause overheating of the plugs, exhaust
blow-by, or thread damage.
1. Spark plugs.
Tighten ^
Spark plugs to 30 Nm (22 lb. ft.) in a new cylinder head and 20 Nm (14 lb. ft.) in a used head.
2. Wire and boot assemblies. Refer to Spark Plug Wiring and Boots for precautions. See: Spark
Plug Wire/Service Precautions
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
RH side of steering column, under Support bracket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling >
Page 7116
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift >
Page 7121
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC
Cycling
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC
Cycling > Page 7127
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 37-71-48A
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Transmission Product Updates (New Shift Solenoids)
Models: 1991-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, P, G Models 1991 Chevrolet and GMC R/V Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L8O-E Transmission (RPO MT1)
This bulletin is being revised to update the part numbers and to include 1995-97 model years.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 377148 (Section 7 - Transmission).
Service Information
Starting August 14, 1996 (Julian date 226) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E transmissions are being built
with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids are serviced for all 1991 through 1997
4L80-E applications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update > Page 7132
Parts Information
Previous Part New Part Description
10478125 10478132 Valve assembly, 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Black)
10478126 10478133 Valve assembly, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (White)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift > Page 7137
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter
Tester
Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 83-90-12
Date: August, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Essential Tool J 43241 Remote Keyless Entry and Passive Keyless Entry Transmitter
Tester
Models:
1990-99 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Remote Keyless Entry or Passive Keyless Entry
Systems
A new essential tool, J 43241 Remote Keyless Entry Transmitter Tester, has been sent to all GM
Dealers. This tester can be used on all RKE and PKE systems, on past as well as current models.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter
Tester > Page 7143
Important:
Before using the tester and the diagnostic chart, the following two steps must be performed.
1. Verify that the keyless entry transmitter is the correct model for the vehicle remote system. An
incorrect model transmitter may pass this test, but may not activate the vehicle remote system. The
correct transmitter can usually be identified by part number.
2. Ensure that the transmitter is synchronized with the vehicle (if applicable). Refer to Transmitter
Synchronization in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 66-90-03 > Jun > 97 > Keyless Entry - Unintended
Release of Rear Hatch
Keyless Entry Transmitter: All Technical Service Bulletins Keyless Entry - Unintended Release of
Rear Hatch
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 66-90-03
Date: June, 1997
Subject: Unintended Release of Rear Hatch (Replace Transmitter Cover)
Models: 1994-96
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G Models
1994 Oldsmobile Bravada
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
Condition
An owner may report that the Rear Hatch Releases without their being aware of it.
Cause
The Keyless Entry Transmitter Button is unintentionally bumped activating the hatch release.
Correction
Replace the Keyless Entry Transmitter Cover. The revised cover has a deeper recess around the
release button making it less prone to inadvertent bumping.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
15740707 Bezel, Transmitter Cover 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
R4490 Control Assembly 0.3 hr
Cover - Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 83-90-12 > Aug > 98 > Tools - Keyless Entry Transmitter
Tester > Page 7153
Important:
Before using the tester and the diagnostic chart, the following two steps must be performed.
1. Verify that the keyless entry transmitter is the correct model for the vehicle remote system. An
incorrect model transmitter may pass this test, but may not activate the vehicle remote system. The
correct transmitter can usually be identified by part number.
2. Ensure that the transmitter is synchronized with the vehicle (if applicable). Refer to Transmitter
Synchronization in the appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7160
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7163
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7166
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7167
Manual Valve Link
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7168
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7169
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7170
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7171
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7172
Control Valve Assembly
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7173
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7174
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7175
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7176
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7177
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7178
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7179
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7180
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7181
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7182
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7183
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7184
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7185
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7186
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7187
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7188
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7189
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7190
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7191
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7192
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7193
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7194
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7195
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7196
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7197
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7198
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7207
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7208
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7214
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7215
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder >
Page 7226
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch
Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch
Shudder > Page 7232
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules
Relay Module: All Technical Service Bulletins Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's Set By Various Control
Modules
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 09-06-03-004D
Date: December 08, 2010
Subject: Intermittent No Crank/No Start, No Module Communication, MIL, Warning Lights, Vehicle
Messages or DTCs Set by Various Control Modules - Diagnosing and Repairing Fretting Corrosion
(Disconnect Affected Connector and Apply Dielectric Lubricant)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks
Attention:
This repair can be applied to ANY electrical connection including, but not limited to: lighting, body
electrical, in-line connections, powertrain control sensors, etc. DO NOT over apply lubricant to the
point where it prevents the full engagement of sealed connectors. A light coating on the terminal
surfaces is sufficient to correct the condition.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the Attention statement and add the 2011
model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 09-06-03-004C (Section 06 Engine/Propulsion System).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
- An intermittent no crank/no start
- Intermittent malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) illumination
- Intermittent service lamp illumination
- Intermittent service message(s) being displayed
The technician may determine that he is unable to duplicate the intermittent condition.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a buildup of nonconductive insulating oxidized debris known as
fretting corrosion, occurring between two electrical contact surfaces of the connection or connector.
This may be caused by any of the following conditions:
- Vibration
- Thermal cycling
- Poor connection/terminal retention
- Micro motion
- A connector, component or wiring harness not properly secured resulting in movement
On low current signal circuits this condition may cause high resistance, resulting in intermittent
connections.
On high current power circuits this condition may cause permanent increases in the resistance and
may cause a device to become inoperative.
Representative List of Control Modules and Components
The following is only a representative list of control modules and components that may be affected
by this connection or connector condition and DOES NOT include every possible module or
component for every vehicle.
- Blower Control Module
- Body Control Module (BCM)
- Communication Interface Module (CIM)
- Cooling Fan Control Module
- Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM)
- Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module (EBTCM)
- Electronic Suspension Control (ESC) Module
- Engine Control Module (ECM)
- Heating, Ventilation and Air Conditioning (HVAC) Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7238
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7239
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7240
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7246
- HVAC Actuator
- Inflatable Restraint Sensing and Diagnostic Module (SDM)
- Any AIR BAG module
- Seatbelt Lap Anchor Pretensioner
- Seatbelt Retractor Pretensioner
- An SIR system connection or connector condition resulting in the following DTCs being set:
B0015, B0016, B0019, B0020, B0022, or B0023
- Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
- Remote Control Door Lock Receiver (RCDLR)
- Transmission Control Module (TCM)
Correction
Important DO NOT replace the control module, wiring or component for the following conditions:
- The condition is intermittent and cannot be duplicated.
- The condition is present and by disconnecting and reconnecting the connector the condition can
no longer be duplicated.
Use the following procedure to correct the conditions listed above.
1. Install a scan tool and perform the Diagnostic System Check - Vehicle. Retrieve and record any
existing history or current DTCs from all of the
control modules (refer to SI).
‹› If any DTC(s) are set, refer to Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) List - Vehicle to identify the
connector(s) of the control module/component
which may be causing the condition (refer to SI).
‹› If DTCs are not set, refer to Symptoms - Vehicle to identify the connector(s) of the control
module/component which may be causing the
condition (refer to SI).
2. When identified, use the appropriate DTC Diagnostics, Symptoms, Schematics, Component
Connector End Views and Component Locator
documents to locate and disconnect the affected harness connector(s) which are causing the
condition.
Note Fretting corrosion looks like little dark smudges on electrical terminals and appear where the
actual electrical contact is being made. In less severe cases it may be unable to be seen or
identified without the use of a magnifying glass.
Important DO NOT apply an excessive amount of dielectric lubricant to the connectors as shown,
as hydrolock may result when attempting to mate the connectors. Use ONLY a clean nylon brush
that is dedicated to the repair of the conditions in this bulletin.
3. With a one-inch nylon bristle brush, apply dielectric lubricant to both the module/component side
and the harness side of the affected connector(s).
4. Reconnect the affected connector(s) and wipe away any excess lubricant that may be present.
5. Attempt to duplicate the condition by using the following information:
- DTC Diagnostic Procedure
- Circuit/System Description
- Conditions for Running the DTC
- Conditions for Setting the DTC
- Diagnostic Aids
- Circuit/System Verification
‹› If the condition cannot be duplicated, the repair is complete. ‹› If the condition can be duplicated,
then follow the appropriate DTC, Symptom or Circuit/System Testing procedure (refer to SI).
Repair Order Documentation
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7247
Important The following information MUST be documented on the repair order. Failure to do so
may result in a chargeback.
- Customer vehicle condition.
- Was a Service Lamp or Service Message illuminated? If yes, specify which Service Lamp or
Service Message.
- Was a DTC(s) set? If yes, specify which DTC(s) were set.
- After following the procedure contained within this bulletin, could the condition be duplicated?
‹› If the condition was not duplicated, then document the affected module/component connector
name and number on the repair order.
- If the condition was duplicated after the procedure contained within this bulletin was followed, and
additional diagnosis led to the replacement of a module or component, the SI Document ID
Number MUST be written on the repair order.
Parts Information
Alternate Distributor For All of North America
Note
NyoGel(R) 760G Lubricant* is equivalent to GMSPO P/N 12377900, and P/N 10953529 (Canada),
specified for use to correct the condition in this bulletin.
*We believe this source and their products to be reliable. There may be additional manufacturers of
such products/materials. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for, or assume
any responsibility for the products or material from this firm or for any such items that may be
available from other sources.
Warranty Information (excluding Saab Models)
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to:
Warranty Information (Saab Models)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 09-06-03-004D > Dec > 10 > Electrical - MIL ON/DTC's
Set By Various Control Modules > Page 7248
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the appropriate/closest labor operation depending upon
the module/component connection that the dielectric lubricant was applied to refer to the table
above.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 7257
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 7258
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7261
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7262
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7263
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7264
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7265
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7266
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7267
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7268
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7269
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7283
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7284
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7285
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7286
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7287
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7288
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7289
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7290
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7291
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7292
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7293
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7294
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 7295
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7296
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7297
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7298
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7299
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7300
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 7301
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E > Page 7306
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC
Apply/No DTC's
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC
Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) ON, POOR DRIVEABILITY # 76-65-04 - (Mar 3, 1997)
SUBJECT: MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) ON, POOR DRIVEABILITY CONDITIONS
(PERFORM FLASH CALIBRATION)
MODELS: 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS 1996-97 CHEVROLET
TILTMASTER AND GMC FORWARD W4 MODELS 1996-97 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA
WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L ENGINES (VINS X, W, M, R - RPOS LF6, L35, L30, L31)
CONDITION:
AN OWNER MAY REPORT THAT THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MW) IS ON
AND/OR THE VEHICLE HAS ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING DRIVEABILITY
CONDITIONS.
1. 5.7L (L31) ONLY: SURGE OR CHUGGLE AT SPEEDS OF 42 TO 65 MPH WHILE AT STEADY
SPEED OR UNDER LIGHT TO MODERATE ACCELERATION WITH THE TCC APPLIED.
2. MIL ON WITH DTC P0172 OR P0175 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY
SYMPTOMS.
3. MIL ON WITH DTC P1406 STORED AND ROUGH ENGINE OR POOR DRIVEABILITY
SYMPTOMS.
4. WHEN OPERATING AT ALTITUDES ABOVE 5,000 FEET, AN AUDIBLE SPARK KNOCK
NOISE IS HEARD.
5. HESITATION AND/OR MISFIRE DURING LIGHT CRUISE CONDITIONS DUE TO IGNITION
CROSS-FIRE WITH NO DTC STORED. THIS WILL ONLY OCCUR ON V-6 ENGINES WITH CAM
RETARD OFFSET IN EXCESS OF 26 DEGREES AND V-8'S WITH CAM RETARD OFFSET IN
EXCESS OF 15 DEGREES.
6. THE MIL MAY BE ON AND A DTC STORED FOR AN ENGINE MISFIRE BUT NO MISFIRE
OCCURRED.
7. ENGINE EXHIBITS AN IDLE SPEED SURGE OR ROLL.
1996 MODELS ONLY
8. MIL ON WITH DTC P0102 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS.
9. 5.0L (L30) + 5.7L (L31) ONLY: DIFFICULT STARTING IN EXTREME COLD (BELOW 0
DEGREES F) CONDITIONS.
10. 5.7L (L31) ONLY: POORER THAN EXPECTED FUEL ECONOMY WHEN HEAVILY LOADED.
1997 MODELS ONLY
11. MIL ON WITH DTC P0121 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS.
12. C/K + S/T MODELS WITH EITHER V-6 ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION: AN
EXHAUST BACKFIRE MAY OCCUR WHILE SHIFTING WITH MODERATE THROTTLE AT
ENGINE SPEEDS ABOVE 3500 RPM.
13. EITHER V-6 ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION: AN ENGINE FLARE BETWEEN
SHIFTS MAY BE NOTED WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD.
14. C/K, S/T AND MIL MODELS EQUIPPED WITH L35 V-6 ENGINE, AN IMPROVEMENT TO
THE VAPOR CANISTER PURGE DIAGNOSTICS IS INCORPORATED INTO THE NEW
CALIBRATIONS SO THAT THE TECH II CAN TURN ON CANISTER PURGE AT IDLE SPEED.
CORRECTION:
FOLLOW THE STRATEGY BASED DIAGNOSTIC STEPS FOR THE CUSTOMER'S REPORTED
SYMPTOMS. IF DIAGNOSIS DOES NOT REVEAL A CAUSE, REFER TO THE TABLES BELOW
FOR THE APPLICABLE CALIBRATION CHANGE. PERFORM PROGRAMMING PER THE
LATEST TECHLINE INFORMATION FOR PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7319
IMPORTANT:
THE CALIBRATIONS LISTED ARE FLASH CALIBRATIONS AND ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM
GMSPO. THEY ARE AVAILABLE ON 1997 TECHLINE CD DISC 5 AND LATER.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7320
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7321
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7322
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7323
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7324
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE THE TABLE.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: Customer Interest PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7329
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7330
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7331
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7332
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7333
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition > Page 7334
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge
on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins Engine Controls Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL
MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) ON, POOR DRIVEABILITY # 76-65-04 - (Mar 3, 1997)
SUBJECT: MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MIL) ON, POOR DRIVEABILITY CONDITIONS
(PERFORM FLASH CALIBRATION)
MODELS: 1996-97 CHEVROLET AND GMC LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS 1996-97 CHEVROLET
TILTMASTER AND GMC FORWARD W4 MODELS 1996-97 OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA
WITH 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L ENGINES (VINS X, W, M, R - RPOS LF6, L35, L30, L31)
CONDITION:
AN OWNER MAY REPORT THAT THE MALFUNCTION INDICATOR LIGHT (MW) IS ON
AND/OR THE VEHICLE HAS ONE OR MORE OF THE FOLLOWING DRIVEABILITY
CONDITIONS.
1. 5.7L (L31) ONLY: SURGE OR CHUGGLE AT SPEEDS OF 42 TO 65 MPH WHILE AT STEADY
SPEED OR UNDER LIGHT TO MODERATE ACCELERATION WITH THE TCC APPLIED.
2. MIL ON WITH DTC P0172 OR P0175 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY
SYMPTOMS.
3. MIL ON WITH DTC P1406 STORED AND ROUGH ENGINE OR POOR DRIVEABILITY
SYMPTOMS.
4. WHEN OPERATING AT ALTITUDES ABOVE 5,000 FEET, AN AUDIBLE SPARK KNOCK
NOISE IS HEARD.
5. HESITATION AND/OR MISFIRE DURING LIGHT CRUISE CONDITIONS DUE TO IGNITION
CROSS-FIRE WITH NO DTC STORED. THIS WILL ONLY OCCUR ON V-6 ENGINES WITH CAM
RETARD OFFSET IN EXCESS OF 26 DEGREES AND V-8'S WITH CAM RETARD OFFSET IN
EXCESS OF 15 DEGREES.
6. THE MIL MAY BE ON AND A DTC STORED FOR AN ENGINE MISFIRE BUT NO MISFIRE
OCCURRED.
7. ENGINE EXHIBITS AN IDLE SPEED SURGE OR ROLL.
1996 MODELS ONLY
8. MIL ON WITH DTC P0102 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS.
9. 5.0L (L30) + 5.7L (L31) ONLY: DIFFICULT STARTING IN EXTREME COLD (BELOW 0
DEGREES F) CONDITIONS.
10. 5.7L (L31) ONLY: POORER THAN EXPECTED FUEL ECONOMY WHEN HEAVILY LOADED.
1997 MODELS ONLY
11. MIL ON WITH DTC P0121 STORED BUT NO REPORTED DRIVEABILITY SYMPTOMS.
12. C/K + S/T MODELS WITH EITHER V-6 ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION: AN
EXHAUST BACKFIRE MAY OCCUR WHILE SHIFTING WITH MODERATE THROTTLE AT
ENGINE SPEEDS ABOVE 3500 RPM.
13. EITHER V-6 ENGINE AND MANUAL TRANSMISSION: AN ENGINE FLARE BETWEEN
SHIFTS MAY BE NOTED WHEN THE ENGINE IS COLD.
14. C/K, S/T AND MIL MODELS EQUIPPED WITH L35 V-6 ENGINE, AN IMPROVEMENT TO
THE VAPOR CANISTER PURGE DIAGNOSTICS IS INCORPORATED INTO THE NEW
CALIBRATIONS SO THAT THE TECH II CAN TURN ON CANISTER PURGE AT IDLE SPEED.
CORRECTION:
FOLLOW THE STRATEGY BASED DIAGNOSTIC STEPS FOR THE CUSTOMER'S REPORTED
SYMPTOMS. IF DIAGNOSIS DOES NOT REVEAL A CAUSE, REFER TO THE TABLES BELOW
FOR THE APPLICABLE CALIBRATION CHANGE. PERFORM PROGRAMMING PER THE
LATEST TECHLINE INFORMATION FOR PROGRAMMING PROCEDURES.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7348
IMPORTANT:
THE CALIBRATIONS LISTED ARE FLASH CALIBRATIONS AND ARE NOT AVAILABLE FROM
GMSPO. THEY ARE AVAILABLE ON 1997 TECHLINE CD DISC 5 AND LATER.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7349
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7350
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7351
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7352
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
76-65-04 > Mar > 97 > Engine Controls - Driveability/Starting Issues/DTC's/MIL > Page 7353
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE THE TABLE.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram
Using Off Board Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7358
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7359
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7360
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7361
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7362
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7363
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7364
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - MIL ON, Poor
Driveability Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7369
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7370
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7371
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7372
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7373
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7374
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins SPS/FLASH EPROM Programming
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 53-65-08
Date: January, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: SPS/FLASH EPROM Programming
Models: 1993-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles
This bulletin is being issued to assist technicians in reprogramming vehicles and should be used in
conjunction with instructions provided on your Techline Terminal and in your Techline Terminal
User's Manual.
THE TECHLINE TERMINAL (T-20, T-50, T-60) HAS BEEN ABLE TO DO 1996 VEHICLE
PROGRAMMING THROUGH THE DIRECT METHOD SINCE 1996 VEHICLES HAVE BEEN
AVAILABLE IN THE DEALERSHIPS/RETAIL FACILITIES. THE TECHLINE CD-ROM TITLED
DISC 13 CONTAINS THE SOFTWARE NEEDED TO PROGRAM ALL 1996 VEHICLES WITH A
TECH 1 (REMOTE PROGRAMMING METHOD).
SPS Tips
1. BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE CHECKED. A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY IS
NECESSARY BEFORE REPROGRAMMING TAKES PLACE. THE VEHICLE BATTERY SHOULD
NOT BE CONNECTED TO A BATTERY CHARGER DURING A PROGRAMMING EVENT
INCORRECT VOLTAGE COULD CAUSE PROGRAMMING AND/OR CONTROL MODULE
FAILURE. During programming, the control module depends on the battery as its sole source of
power. Also during programming, the vehicle's components (i.e. blower motor) are set to a default
mode which may be turned on, placing additional draw on the vehicle's battery. If the voltage goes
outside the specified range (11 to 14 volts) the controllers and the Techline equipment will stop
communicating. If this happens, it could cause the control module to become inoperable and
require replacement.
2. CHECK THE INTEGRITY OF THE TECH 1 CABLES, MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT FRAYED,
BROKEN OR TWISTED. Loss of communication for any reason will require additional time in
completing the reprogramming event.
3. IF USING A TECH 1, YOUR MASS STORAGE CARTRIDGE (MSC) MUST BE UPDATED TO
REFLECT THE MOST CURRENT UPDATE OFFERED ON THE TECHLINE CD-ROM. DISC 13,
1995 WAS THE FIRST CD-ROM THAT HAD REMOTE PROGRAMMING SUPPORT If your MSC
is not updated to reflect the current software version on the Techline Terminal, in some situations
the software will not be capable of interpreting the information that is requested from the vehicle.
4. T-100 TERMINALS (CAMS) ARE NOT CAPABLE OF PROGRAMMING OBD II VEHICLES
THROUGH THE DIRECT METHOD. A TECH 1 MUST BE USED (REMOTE METHOD) WHEN
REPROGRAMMING WITH A T-100. The T-100 terminals communicate with vehicles through a
DLC (ALDL) card and cable found within the T-100's computer. The DLC (ALDL) card is not
capable of communicating at the new baud rate used with OBD II.
5. PROGRAMMING IS NOT NEEDED IF THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IS THE SAME AS THE
SELECTED CALIBRATION.
6. IF PROGRAMMING A NEW CONTROL MODULE, YOU MUST REQUEST INFORMATION
FROM THE NEW CONTROL MODULE. The security information that is needed for a control
module to be programmed is stored in the new control module. The security information must be
requested from the control module to be programmed. At that point, the control module can be
successfully programmed. This requesting of security information takes place in both the direct and
remote methods. The request is automatic when using the direct method. Looking at the calibration
stored in the old controller may be helpful in selecting the calibration from the CD-ROM for the new
controller.
7. WHEN PROGRAMMING OBD II VEHICLES WITH A TECH 1 (REMOTE PROGRAMMING
METHOD), A VEHICLE INTERFACE MODULE (VIM) IS REQUIRED. The VIM allows the Tech 1
to communicate with the OBD II vehicles. The VIM is necessary for all other Tech 1 diagnostics on
OBD II vehicles. VIMs are no longer on backorder. If you are interested in obtaining additional
VIMs, call 1-800-GM-TOOLS and ask for VIM kit part number 7000041.
8. DISCONNECT THE TECH I AND VIM FROM THE VEHICLE BETWEEN RETRIEVING DATA
AND PROGRAMMING THE VEHICLE. If the VIM remains powered up after data is requested, a
communication problem may result when the reprogramming function is performed.
9. WHEN CONNECTING THE TECH 1 TO A TECHLINE TERMINAL (EXCEPT T-100 CAMS),
ALWAYS CONNECT THE FLAT GRAY R5232 CABLE FIRST AND THEN THE POWER
ADAPTER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOSS OF INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7379
STORED ON THE TECH 1. When power is turned on to the Tech 1, it looks for the RS232
connection. If it does not see the connection, the Tech 1 in some cases, will erase the information
stored for download.
10. DO NOT DISCONTINUE OR INTERRUPT THE PROGRAM LOADING PROCESS TO THE
VEHICLE. This will result in a programming error and could prevent the Electronic Control Module
(ECM) from functioning properly.
11. AFTER PROGRAMMING IS COMPLETE, PRESS "EXIT". MAKE SURE THE KEY IS CYCLED
OFF FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 SECONDS THEN BACK ON. Some vehicles will lose component
settings (PMC/IAC Valve). Cycling the key off two times (Off for 30 seconds, On for 10 then repeat
a second time) will allow for resetting of the components. Start the vehicle to ensure programming
was successful.
FOR CADILLAC VEHICLES ONLY a. DUE TO OTHER MODULES ON THE DATA LINE TRYING TO COMMUNICATE WITH THE
ECM DURING PROGRAMMING, SOME COMMUNICATION CODES MAY BE SET After
programming is complete, clear any codes and verify they do not reset.
b. TO HELP MINIMIZE BATTERY DRAW DURING ECM PROGRAMMING, DISCONNECT THE
BLOWER MOTOR (AT THE CONNECTOR, NOT THE FUSE) PRIOR TO PROGRAMMING. When
programming is complete, reconnect the blower motor.
12. 1997 VEHICLES REQUIRE REPROGRAMMING BE DONE USING A TECH 2. OBD II vehicle
calibration size and complexity will require more memory than the Tech 1 has available. Tech 2 will
be an essential tool in the first quarter of 1996 containing limited 1996 applications and updates.
13. STG HAS ISSUED BULLETINS (# 53-65-04 and # 53-65-05 - (SEE CHART EXCERPTED
FROM 53-65-05 FOR USE AS A QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE), DEVELOPED QUICK
REFERENCE GUIDES (P/N SPSCARD-1 AVAILABLE THROUGH YOUR LOCAL GM TRAINING
CENTER), PRODUCED CPT VIDEOS (CPT # 56010.00-B), HAD PULSAT BROADCASTS, AND
OFFERS GM TRAINING CENTER CLASSROOM COURSES. As you work through
reprogramming, keep the above-mentioned material in mind as resources to assist you if difficulty
is encountered. As always, the Techline Customer Support Center (1-800-828-6860 English,
1-800-503-3222 French) is always available to assist the technician with any situation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7380
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7381
SPS/EEPROM Programming
1993 to current Reprogrammable Vehicles
Note: If programming a new control module you must request info from the new control module
first. Battery voltage should be checked and at full charge before reprogramming takes place.
System to be programmed should NOT be connected to a battery charger. Incorrect voltage could
cause programming and/or control module failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins SPS/EEPROM Programming Chart
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 53-65-05
Date: October, 1995
Subject: Chart to Assist Technician with SPS/EEPROM Programming
Models: 1995-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being issued to assist technicians with the reprogramming of vehicles. The following
chart was developed to be used by technicians that are familiar with the Techline terminals, Tech 1
and all of its adapters:
IMPORTANT
If programming a new control module, you must request information from the new control module
first.
Battery voltage must be between 11 and 14 volts. System to be programmed should NOT be
connected to a battery charger. Incorrect voltage could cause programming and/or control module
failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart > Page 7386
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart > Page 7387
Programming Chart
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
99-06-04-053 > Nov > 99 > PROM - Powertrain Control Module Reprogramming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Powertrain
Control Module Reprogramming
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 99-06-04-053
Date: November, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Powertrain Control Module (PCM) Reprogramming (Do Not Reprogram Using the Same
Download Files as Those Already Present in The Control Module)
Models: 1990-2000 Passenger Cars and Trucks with Reprogrammable PCM
It is strongly recommended to NOT reinstall the same software and/or calibration download file(s)
into the powertrain control module as those that are already present in the PCM. There is no
technical reason that the download files inside the PCM would ever become corrupted after the
control module had previously been successfully programmed. A P0601 (Control Module Read
Only Memory) Diagnostic Trouble Code would set in memory and the MIL would be illuminated if
the controller memory became corrupted.
The Techline Information System 2000 (TIS 2000) PC, combined with vehicle information gained
through the Tech 2, can determine when an attempt to reprogram a PCM using the same download
files (as those already in the control module) is being requested. If this is attempted, the TIS 2000
PC currently displays the following message:
Notice:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL MODULE.
PROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILES IS NOT AN EFFECTIVE REPAIR.
SELECT ( YES ) TO CONTINUE PROGRAMMING THE CONTROL MODULE,OR ( NO ) TO
CANCEL.
Effective in the first quarter of 2000, the TIS 2000 PC will indicate:
Important:
THE CALIBRATION SELECTED IS ALREADY THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IN THE CONTROL
MODULE. REPROGRAMMING WITH THE SAME DOWNLOAD FILE IS NOT ALLOWED.
Certain learned values, such as: (but not limited to)
^ fuel trim (previously known as block learn memory),
^ IAC learned position in various park/neutral and air conditioning on/off combinations,
^ certain OBDII diagnostic thresholds,
^ automatic transmission shift adapts
will revert back to their unlearned starting point values after a reprogramming event occurs.
It is feasible that the engine or transmission might temporarily operate differently after a
reprogramming event, until these values are re-learned. Relearning occurs while operating the
vehicle through normal driving routines. If the same download files are simply reinstalled, any
changes noticed in engine operation will likely disappear in a short amount of time and/or driving
distance.
Reprogramming the control module with the same download files that already exist in the module
will only accomplish a warranty claim for a non-effective repair, and a likely comeback.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - Reprogram
Using Off Board Program Adapter
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 73-65-13
Date: March, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Reprogramming Capability using the Off Board Programming Adapter
Models: 1993-97 Passenger Cars and Trucks (Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7397
The General Motors vehicles contain Electronically Reprogrammable Devices (i.e. PCM, VCM,
ECM). These vehicles cannot be programmed through PROM replacement, however service
programming capability is available through the Tech 1/1A, Tech 2 and Techline terminals via
direct or remote programming.
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has requested that all new vehicle manufacturers
ensure their dealers/retailers are aware that they are responsible for providing customers access to
reprogramming services at a reasonable cost and in a timely manner.
Although programming of controllers has become a common service practice at GM
dealers/retailers, the EPA has received reports from consumers and the aftermarket repair industry
that they were unable to purchase a new (programmed) Electronically Reprogrammable Device
(ERD) over-the-counter. As a result, on August 1, 1995, the Federal Government issued a
regulation requiring all manufacturers to make available reprogramming to the independent
aftermarket by December 1, 1997.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7398
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7399
Today, the Off Board Programming Adapter (OBPA) is used to reprogram ERD's sold
over-the-counter. For all practical purposes, the OBPA takes the place of the vehicle when the
vehicle is not available.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7400
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7401
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7402
The list of dealerships/retailers currently own the OBPA (see Attachments 1 - 3). These locations
are equipped to provide over-the-counter preprogrammed ERD's. The hardware required to
perform reprogramming in addition to the OBPA is a Techline terminal, Tech 1/1A and associated
cables and adapters. THE TECH 2 SHOULD NOT BE USED WITH THE OBPA AT THIS TIME
BECAUSE OF INADEQUATE OBPA GROUNDING.
The current OBPA can support reprogramming on all late model General Motor's vehicles except:
^ Premium V-8's
^ 1996 Diesel Truck
^ Cadillac Catera
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
736513 > Mar > 97 > PROM - Reprogram Using Off Board Program Adapter > Page 7403
^ All 1997 programmable vehicles (requires use of the Tech 2)
A modification to the OBPA is being offered by Kent-Moore to support these additional vehicles and
to allow reprogramming using the Tech 2. The revisions to the OBPA for the Tech 2 is very
important as the Tech 2 is the only tool used for service programming for 1997 and future vehicles.
To have the modifications performed, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The revisions (part
number J 41207 REV-C) are free of charge for GM dealerships/retailers.
A dealership/retailer can purchase the OBPA by contacting Kent-Moore (part number J 41207-C).
Support on how to use the OBPA is provided by the Techline Customer Support Center (TCSC) at
(800) 828-6860 (English) or (800) 503-3222 (French).
If you need to purchase an OBPA and/or cable, contact Kent-Moore at (800) 345-2233. The OBPA
retails for $695.00 (includes all revisions 1-4) under part number J 41207-C.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins SPS/FLASH EPROM Programming
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 53-65-08
Date: January, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: SPS/FLASH EPROM Programming
Models: 1993-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks Applicable Reprogrammable Vehicles
This bulletin is being issued to assist technicians in reprogramming vehicles and should be used in
conjunction with instructions provided on your Techline Terminal and in your Techline Terminal
User's Manual.
THE TECHLINE TERMINAL (T-20, T-50, T-60) HAS BEEN ABLE TO DO 1996 VEHICLE
PROGRAMMING THROUGH THE DIRECT METHOD SINCE 1996 VEHICLES HAVE BEEN
AVAILABLE IN THE DEALERSHIPS/RETAIL FACILITIES. THE TECHLINE CD-ROM TITLED
DISC 13 CONTAINS THE SOFTWARE NEEDED TO PROGRAM ALL 1996 VEHICLES WITH A
TECH 1 (REMOTE PROGRAMMING METHOD).
SPS Tips
1. BATTERY VOLTAGE SHOULD BE CHECKED. A FULLY CHARGED BATTERY IS
NECESSARY BEFORE REPROGRAMMING TAKES PLACE. THE VEHICLE BATTERY SHOULD
NOT BE CONNECTED TO A BATTERY CHARGER DURING A PROGRAMMING EVENT
INCORRECT VOLTAGE COULD CAUSE PROGRAMMING AND/OR CONTROL MODULE
FAILURE. During programming, the control module depends on the battery as its sole source of
power. Also during programming, the vehicle's components (i.e. blower motor) are set to a default
mode which may be turned on, placing additional draw on the vehicle's battery. If the voltage goes
outside the specified range (11 to 14 volts) the controllers and the Techline equipment will stop
communicating. If this happens, it could cause the control module to become inoperable and
require replacement.
2. CHECK THE INTEGRITY OF THE TECH 1 CABLES, MAKE SURE THEY ARE NOT FRAYED,
BROKEN OR TWISTED. Loss of communication for any reason will require additional time in
completing the reprogramming event.
3. IF USING A TECH 1, YOUR MASS STORAGE CARTRIDGE (MSC) MUST BE UPDATED TO
REFLECT THE MOST CURRENT UPDATE OFFERED ON THE TECHLINE CD-ROM. DISC 13,
1995 WAS THE FIRST CD-ROM THAT HAD REMOTE PROGRAMMING SUPPORT If your MSC
is not updated to reflect the current software version on the Techline Terminal, in some situations
the software will not be capable of interpreting the information that is requested from the vehicle.
4. T-100 TERMINALS (CAMS) ARE NOT CAPABLE OF PROGRAMMING OBD II VEHICLES
THROUGH THE DIRECT METHOD. A TECH 1 MUST BE USED (REMOTE METHOD) WHEN
REPROGRAMMING WITH A T-100. The T-100 terminals communicate with vehicles through a
DLC (ALDL) card and cable found within the T-100's computer. The DLC (ALDL) card is not
capable of communicating at the new baud rate used with OBD II.
5. PROGRAMMING IS NOT NEEDED IF THE CURRENT CALIBRATION IS THE SAME AS THE
SELECTED CALIBRATION.
6. IF PROGRAMMING A NEW CONTROL MODULE, YOU MUST REQUEST INFORMATION
FROM THE NEW CONTROL MODULE. The security information that is needed for a control
module to be programmed is stored in the new control module. The security information must be
requested from the control module to be programmed. At that point, the control module can be
successfully programmed. This requesting of security information takes place in both the direct and
remote methods. The request is automatic when using the direct method. Looking at the calibration
stored in the old controller may be helpful in selecting the calibration from the CD-ROM for the new
controller.
7. WHEN PROGRAMMING OBD II VEHICLES WITH A TECH 1 (REMOTE PROGRAMMING
METHOD), A VEHICLE INTERFACE MODULE (VIM) IS REQUIRED. The VIM allows the Tech 1
to communicate with the OBD II vehicles. The VIM is necessary for all other Tech 1 diagnostics on
OBD II vehicles. VIMs are no longer on backorder. If you are interested in obtaining additional
VIMs, call 1-800-GM-TOOLS and ask for VIM kit part number 7000041.
8. DISCONNECT THE TECH I AND VIM FROM THE VEHICLE BETWEEN RETRIEVING DATA
AND PROGRAMMING THE VEHICLE. If the VIM remains powered up after data is requested, a
communication problem may result when the reprogramming function is performed.
9. WHEN CONNECTING THE TECH 1 TO A TECHLINE TERMINAL (EXCEPT T-100 CAMS),
ALWAYS CONNECT THE FLAT GRAY R5232 CABLE FIRST AND THEN THE POWER
ADAPTER. FAILURE TO DO SO COULD RESULT IN A LOSS OF INFORMATION
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7408
STORED ON THE TECH 1. When power is turned on to the Tech 1, it looks for the RS232
connection. If it does not see the connection, the Tech 1 in some cases, will erase the information
stored for download.
10. DO NOT DISCONTINUE OR INTERRUPT THE PROGRAM LOADING PROCESS TO THE
VEHICLE. This will result in a programming error and could prevent the Electronic Control Module
(ECM) from functioning properly.
11. AFTER PROGRAMMING IS COMPLETE, PRESS "EXIT". MAKE SURE THE KEY IS CYCLED
OFF FOR APPROXIMATELY 10 SECONDS THEN BACK ON. Some vehicles will lose component
settings (PMC/IAC Valve). Cycling the key off two times (Off for 30 seconds, On for 10 then repeat
a second time) will allow for resetting of the components. Start the vehicle to ensure programming
was successful.
FOR CADILLAC VEHICLES ONLY a. DUE TO OTHER MODULES ON THE DATA LINE TRYING TO COMMUNICATE WITH THE
ECM DURING PROGRAMMING, SOME COMMUNICATION CODES MAY BE SET After
programming is complete, clear any codes and verify they do not reset.
b. TO HELP MINIMIZE BATTERY DRAW DURING ECM PROGRAMMING, DISCONNECT THE
BLOWER MOTOR (AT THE CONNECTOR, NOT THE FUSE) PRIOR TO PROGRAMMING. When
programming is complete, reconnect the blower motor.
12. 1997 VEHICLES REQUIRE REPROGRAMMING BE DONE USING A TECH 2. OBD II vehicle
calibration size and complexity will require more memory than the Tech 1 has available. Tech 2 will
be an essential tool in the first quarter of 1996 containing limited 1996 applications and updates.
13. STG HAS ISSUED BULLETINS (# 53-65-04 and # 53-65-05 - (SEE CHART EXCERPTED
FROM 53-65-05 FOR USE AS A QUICK REFERENCE GUIDE), DEVELOPED QUICK
REFERENCE GUIDES (P/N SPSCARD-1 AVAILABLE THROUGH YOUR LOCAL GM TRAINING
CENTER), PRODUCED CPT VIDEOS (CPT # 56010.00-B), HAD PULSAT BROADCASTS, AND
OFFERS GM TRAINING CENTER CLASSROOM COURSES. As you work through
reprogramming, keep the above-mentioned material in mind as resources to assist you if difficulty
is encountered. As always, the Techline Customer Support Center (1-800-828-6860 English,
1-800-503-3222 French) is always available to assist the technician with any situation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7409
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536508 > Jan > 96 > SPS/FLASH EPROM - Programming > Page 7410
SPS/EEPROM Programming
1993 to current Reprogrammable Vehicles
Note: If programming a new control module you must request info from the new control module
first. Battery voltage should be checked and at full charge before reprogramming takes place.
System to be programmed should NOT be connected to a battery charger. Incorrect voltage could
cause programming and/or control module failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart
PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: All Technical Service Bulletins SPS/EEPROM Programming Chart
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 53-65-05
Date: October, 1995
Subject: Chart to Assist Technician with SPS/EEPROM Programming
Models: 1995-96 Passenger Cars and Trucks
This bulletin is being issued to assist technicians with the reprogramming of vehicles. The following
chart was developed to be used by technicians that are familiar with the Techline terminals, Tech 1
and all of its adapters:
IMPORTANT
If programming a new control module, you must request information from the new control module
first.
Battery voltage must be between 11 and 14 volts. System to be programmed should NOT be
connected to a battery charger. Incorrect voltage could cause programming and/or control module
failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart > Page 7415
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Powertrain Management > PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for PROM - Programmable Read Only Memory: >
536505 > Oct > 95 > SPS/EEPROM - Programming Chart > Page 7416
Programming Chart
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
RH side of steering column, under Support bracket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7431
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer
Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7436
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7442
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 37-71-48A
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Transmission Product Updates (New Shift Solenoids)
Models: 1991-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, P, G Models 1991 Chevrolet and GMC R/V Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L8O-E Transmission (RPO MT1)
This bulletin is being revised to update the part numbers and to include 1995-97 model years.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 377148 (Section 7 - Transmission).
Service Information
Starting August 14, 1996 (Julian date 226) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E transmissions are being built
with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids are serviced for all 1991 through 1997
4L80-E applications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update > Page 7447
Parts Information
Previous Part New Part Description
10478125 10478132 Valve assembly, 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Black)
10478126 10478133 Valve assembly, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (White)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical
Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7452
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other
Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > NHTSA97V096000 > Jun > 97 > Recall 97V096000: Outboard Seat Belt Replacement
Seat Belt: All Technical Service Bulletins Recall 97V096000: Outboard Seat Belt Replacement
Vehicle Description: Extended cab pickup trucks equipped with 60/40 front bench seats and
extended cab pickup trucks and 2-door utility vehicles equipped with manual locking recliner bucket
seats. The outboard safety belt webbing on the driver's and/or passenger's seat can separate
during a frontal impact. If a separation occurred and there were secondary crash events or vehicle
rollover, there would be no belt restraint of the occupant and increased injuries could occur.
Dealers will replace these safety belts. Owner Notification: Owner notification will begin during
September 1997. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon
service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact Chevrolet
at 1-800-222-1020 or GMC at 1-800-462-8782. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-800-424-9393.
1994 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 1994 GMC S15 1995 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 1995 GMC S15
1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK BLAZER 1996 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 1996 GMC JIMMY 1996
GMC S15 1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK BLAZER 1997 CHEVROLET TRUCK S10 1997 GMC
JIMMY 1997 GMC S15 1997 ISUZU TRUCK HOMBRE
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7465
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7468
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7471
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7472
Manual Valve Link
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7473
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7474
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7475
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7476
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7477
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7478
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7479
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7480
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7481
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7482
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7483
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7484
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7485
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7486
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7487
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7488
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7489
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7490
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7491
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7492
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7493
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7494
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7495
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7496
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7497
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7498
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7499
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7500
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7501
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7502
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission > Page 7503
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7512
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7513
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7519
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7520
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
RH side of steering column, under Support bracket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: >
77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: >
77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7534
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147
> Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147
> Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7539
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7545
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 37-71-48A
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Transmission Product Updates (New Shift Solenoids)
Models: 1991-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, P, G Models 1991 Chevrolet and GMC R/V Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L8O-E Transmission (RPO MT1)
This bulletin is being revised to update the part numbers and to include 1995-97 model years.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 377148 (Section 7 - Transmission).
Service Information
Starting August 14, 1996 (Julian date 226) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E transmissions are being built
with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids are serviced for all 1991 through 1997
4L80-E applications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update > Page 7550
Parts Information
Previous Part New Part Description
10478125 10478132 Valve assembly, 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Black)
10478126 10478133 Valve assembly, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (White)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7555
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins
for Shift Solenoid: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle - Vent Leak
Differential Case: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Axle - Vent Leak
File In Section: 4 - Drive Axle
Bulletin No.: 56-42-03A
Date: November, 1996
Subject: Rear Axle Vent Leak (Relocate Rear Axle Vent Tube)
Models: 1993-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 2, 3 Models with 10.5" Rear Axles
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1996 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 56-42-03 (Section 4 - Drive Axle)
Condition
Some owners may comment about an oil soaked load floor or oil leaking from the rear axle vent.
Correction
Following the instructions given below, relocate the rear axle vent tube to the axle tube.
Service Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.
2. Disconnect the vent hose from the vent tube and remove the vent tube.
3. Plug the existing vent hole with weld bond epoxy such as J.B. Weld or equivalent following the
manufacturer's instructions.
4. Remove the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the appropriate
year Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins
for Shift Solenoid: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 7561
5. Locate the shock mount bracket on the driver's side axle tube (Figure 1). At the top of the axle
tube, parallel to the center of the shock bracket, drill a 3/8" hole in the axle tube.
Notice:
Precaution should be taken to ensure that no metal fragments enter the axle tube. Use a magnet
when drilling to lift and catch the metal filings. Apply wheel bearing grease to the drill bit before
breaking through the axle tube.
6. Using a 12 mm socket, drive a new vent tube (P/N 14072930) into the axle tube at the location
drilled in step 5. Seal the base of the vent tube with RTV sealant (P/N 12345739).
7. Use an extendable magnet tool to capture any metal fragments that may have fallen into the axle
tube and then re-install the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the
appropriate year Service Manual.
8. Cut approximately 8.5" (216 mm) off the existing vent hose and discard after verifying that
enough vent hose will remain to allow for axle movement. Clamp the remaining hose onto the new
axle vent tube installed in step 7.
9. Check the rear axle fluid level. Add fluid if necessary (P/N 1052271 80W-90 GL-5).
10. Lower the vehicle and test drive.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14072930 Vent Tube 1
12345739 RTV Sealant As Required
1052271 Rear Axle As Required
Lubricating Oil
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins
for Shift Solenoid: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 7562
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
F3270 Rear Vent Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
F1531 Left Axle Shaft R&R; Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins
for Shift Solenoid: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 7568
5. Locate the shock mount bracket on the driver's side axle tube (Figure 1). At the top of the axle
tube, parallel to the center of the shock bracket, drill a 3/8" hole in the axle tube.
Notice:
Precaution should be taken to ensure that no metal fragments enter the axle tube. Use a magnet
when drilling to lift and catch the metal filings. Apply wheel bearing grease to the drill bit before
breaking through the axle tube.
6. Using a 12 mm socket, drive a new vent tube (P/N 14072930) into the axle tube at the location
drilled in step 5. Seal the base of the vent tube with RTV sealant (P/N 12345739).
7. Use an extendable magnet tool to capture any metal fragments that may have fallen into the axle
tube and then re-install the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the
appropriate year Service Manual.
8. Cut approximately 8.5" (216 mm) off the existing vent hose and discard after verifying that
enough vent hose will remain to allow for axle movement. Clamp the remaining hose onto the new
axle vent tube installed in step 7.
9. Check the rear axle fluid level. Add fluid if necessary (P/N 1052271 80W-90 GL-5).
10. Lower the vehicle and test drive.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14072930 Vent Tube 1
12345739 RTV Sealant As Required
1052271 Rear Axle As Required
Lubricating Oil
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins
for Shift Solenoid: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 7569
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
F3270 Rear Vent Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
F1531 Left Axle Shaft R&R; Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page
7572
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7575
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7578
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7579
Manual Valve Link
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7580
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7581
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7582
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7583
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7584
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7585
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7586
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7587
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7588
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7589
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7590
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7591
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7592
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7593
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7594
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7595
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7596
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7597
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7598
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7599
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7600
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7601
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7602
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7603
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7604
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7605
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7606
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7607
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7608
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7609
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission >
Page 7610
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7619
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins >
Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7620
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7626
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Actuators and
Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All
Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2
Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 7627
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Accumulator, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 1-2 Accumulator Piston/Outer Spring Replacement
Accumulator: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 1-2 Accumulator Piston/Outer Spring Replacement
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 87-71-74
Date: November, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: 1-2 Accumulator Piston and Outer Spring Replacement
Models: 1982-96 Buick Roadmaster 1982-96 Cadillac Brougham, Fleetwood, DeVille 1982-86
Chevrolet Caprice 1982-99 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1982-99 Pontiac Firebird with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60, 4L60-E Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30)
1982-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1991-99 Oldsmobile Bravada with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60, 4L60-E Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30)
Transmissions built from 1982 through 1999 were built with one of two styles of 1-2 accumulator
pistons and outer springs.
Important:
The 1-2 accumulator pistons and outer springs are not interchangeable.
For replacement of the 1-2 accumulator piston and outer spring, remove the 1-2 accumulator
assembly and inspect the interior for the presence of either an aluminum or composite (plastic) 1-2
accumulator piston.
Design 1
1-2 accumulator assemblies with an aluminum piston and a round wire outer spring, use service
package P/N 24204495 (1982-1993) or P/N 24204496
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Accumulator, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 1-2 Accumulator Piston/Outer Spring Replacement > Page
7632
(1994-1997).
Design 2
1-2 accumulator assemblies with a composite (plastic) piston and an ovate wire outer spring,
started May 11, 1998 (Julian Date 131), use service package P/N 24214343 (1998-1999).
Notice:
Failure to follow the above instructions may result in transmission distress.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Accumulator, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 7633
Accumulator: Service and Repair
1. Drain and remove oil pan, then filter and gasket. 2. Remove retaining bolts. 3. Remove
accumulator housing assembly, gaskets and spacer plate. 4. Reverse procedure to install. Fill
transmission with proper fluid.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Front
1. Drain and remove oil pan, then filter and gasket. 2. Remove control valve assembly as described
under "Control Valve Assembly, Replace."
Fig.12 Front Servo Assembly
3. Remove front servo piston, piston pin, washer, spring retainer and piston spring, Fig. 12. 4.
Reverse procedure to install.
Rear
1. Drain and remove oil pan, then filter and gasket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 7638
Fig. 13 Rear Servo Assembly
2. Remove servo cover to case bolts, servo cover, gasket and retaining clip, Fig. 13. 3. Remove
retaining clip, rear servo piston, reverse servo piston seal and accumulator piston. 4. Remove inner
and outer piston seals, washer, rear servo spring and retainer. 5. Remove rear band apply pin and
rear accumulator spring. 6. Check and measure the apply pin as follows:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 7639
Fig. 14 Servo Pin Gauge Installation.
a. Place gauge pin part No. J-21370-10 in servo bore, Fig. 14. b. Position band apply pin checking
tool No. J-38737 or equivalent over the bore with hex nut facing parking pawl linkage. c. Secure
with two rear cover bolts, then tighten to specifications. d. Ensure gauge pin moves freely in tool
and pin bore. e. Determine correct pin length by torquing to 25 ft. lbs. the nut on gauge.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 7640
Fig. 15 Band Apply Pin Selection Chart.
f. Refer to Fig. 15 for proper pin selection.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Tighten retaining bolts to specifications. 8. Install filter and pan. 9.
Fill transmission with proper fluid.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Band Apply Servo, A/T
> Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 7641
Band Apply Servo: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove two oil pan bolts from below servo cover. 3. Install servo
cover compressor tool No. J-29714 or equivalent on oil pan flange and depress servo cover. 4.
Remove servo cover retaining ring. 5. Remove servo cover and seal ring. 6. Remove servo piston
and bore-apply pin assembly. 7. Reverse procedure to install. Whenever any servo parts are
replaced, apply-pin length must be checked.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cracked Case Diagnosis
Case: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cracked Case Diagnosis
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-024B
Date: August 18, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Diagnosis of Cracked or Broken Transmission Case
Models: 2006 and Prior Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 and Prior HUMMER H2 2006 HUMMER
H3 2005-2006 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60/4L60-E/4L65-E or 4L80-E/4L85-E or Allison(R) Series 1000 Automatic Transmission
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 02-07-30-024A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Diagnosing the cause of a cracked or broken transmission case requires additional diagnosis and
repair or a repeat failure will occur.
A cracked or broken transmission case is most often the result of abnormal external torsional
forces acting on the transmission case. If none of the conditions listed below are apparent, an
internal transmission component inspection may be required. Repairs of this type may be the result
of external damage or abuse for which General Motors is not responsible. They are not the result of
defects in materials or workmanship. If in doubt, contact your General Motors Service
Representative.
The following items should be considered:
^ It is important to inspect the vehicle for signs of an out of line condition, impact damage or foreign
material to the following components:
- The transmission
- The engine mounts
- The transmission rear mount and crossmember
- Vehicle frame damage that alters the front to rear alignment of the driveshaft
- The driveshafts (both front and rear)
- The wheels (caked with mud, concrete, etc.)
- The tires (roundness, lack of cupping, excessive balance weights)
- The transfer case (if the vehicle is 4WD)
^ A worn or damaged driveshaft U-Joint has shown to be a frequent cause of transmission case
cracking, especially on vehicles that see extended periods of highway driving. Always inspect the
U-joint condition when diagnosing this condition.
^ For driveshaft damage or imbalance, Inspect the driveshafts (both front and rear) for dents,
straightness/runout or signs of missing balance weights. Also, inspect for foreign material such as
undercoat sprayed on the driveshaft.
^ The driveshaft working angles may be excessive or non-canceling, especially if the vehicle
carrying height has been altered (lifted or lowered) or if the frame has been extended or modified.
^ Damaged or worn upper or lower rear control arms or bushings.
^ A rear axle that is not seated in the rear spring properly (leaf spring vehicles).
^ Broken rear springs and or worn leaf spring bushings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Case, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Cracked Case Diagnosis > Page 7646
In some cases, the customer may not comment about a vibration but it is important to test drive the
vehicle while using the electronic vibration analysis tool in an attempt to locate the cause of the
torsional vibration. Refer to the Vibration Diagnosis and Correction sub-section of the appropriate
Service Manual for more details on diagnosing and correcting vibrations.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Channel Plate, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Channel Plate: Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No
Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: Customer Interest A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No
Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7659
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun > 08 > A/T - No
Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7660
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-027
Date: June 04, 2008
Subject: No Movement When Transmission is Shifted to Drive or Third - Normal Operation When
Shifted to Second, First or Reverse (Replace Forward Sprag Assembly)
Models: 1982 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2006 - 2007 Buick Rainier 2006
Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT 2006 Chevrolet SSR 2006 - 2008 Chevrolet
Avalanche, Colorado, Express, Silverado Classic, Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe, TrailBlazer 2006
GMC Yukon Denali, Yukon Denali XL 2006 - 2008 GMC Canyon, Envoy, Savana, Sierra Classic,
Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL 2006 Pontiac GTO 2006 - 2007 HUMMER H2 2006 - 2008 HUMMER H3
2006 - 2008 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60, 4L60E, 4L65E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs MD8, M30, M32, M33 or M70)
Condition
Some customers may comment that the vehicle has no movement when the transmission is shifted
to DRIVE or THIRD position, but there is normal operation when it is shifted to SECOND, FIRST or
REVERSE position.
Cause
This condition may be caused by a damaged forward sprag assembly (642).
Correction
When inspecting the sprag, it is important to test the sprag for proper operation by holding the outer
race (644) with one hand while rotating the input sun gear (640) with the other hand. The sun gear
should rotate only in the counterclockwise direction with the input sun gear facing upward. If the
sprag rotates in both directions or will not rotate in either direction, the sprag elements should be
inspected by removing one of the sprag assembly retaining rings (643). Refer to SI Unit Repair
section for forward clutch sprag disassembly procedures.
If the sprag is found to be damaged, make repairs to the transmission as necessary. A new forward
roller clutch sprag assembly is now available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7666
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the Pressure Control (PC) solenoid
valve (377) fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid (377) as necessary. It is also important
to flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J45096. Refer to SI Automatic
Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test for the procedure.
The notches above each sprag must point up as shown when assembled into the outer race.
Bearing Assembly, Input Sun Gear
Snap Ring, Overrun Clutch Hub Retaining
Hub, Overrun Clutch
Wear Plate, Sprag Assembly
Retainer and Race Assembly, Sprag
Forward Sprag Assembly
Retainer Rings, Sprag Assembly
Outer Race, Forward Clutch
Washer, Thrust (Input Carrier to Race)
The following information applies when this sprag is used in 1982-86 transmissions.
The new design sprag can be used on models 1982 through 1986, by replacing the entire
assembly (637 - 644). Individual components are NOT
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Clutch, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Clutch: > 08-07-30-027 > Jun >
08 > A/T - No Movement in Drive or 3rd Gear > Page 7667
interchangeable.
Important:
The wear plate (640) and input thrust washer (660) are not required with the new sprag. Use of the
thrust washer and wear plate with the new sprag assembly will cause a misbuild (correct end play
cannot be obtained).
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 >
A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 >
A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 7676
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 >
Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Control Module, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 >
Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 7682
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-037E
Date: April 07, 2011
Subject: Release of DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF)
Models:
2008 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2008 HUMMER H2 2006-2008
HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saturn Relay 2005 and Prior Saturn L-Series 2005-2007 Saturn ION
2005-2008 Saturn VUE with 4T45-E 2005-2008 Saab 9-7X Except 2008 and Prior Chevrolet Aveo,
Equinox Except 2006 and Prior Chevrolet Epica Except 2007 and Prior Chevrolet Optra Except
2008 and Prior Pontiac Torrent, Vibe, Wave Except 2003-2005 Saturn ION with CVT or AF23 Only
Except 1991-2002 Saturn S-Series Except 2008 and Prior Saturn VUE with CVT, AF33 or 5AT
(MJ7/MJ8) Transmission Only Except 2008 Saturn Astra
Attention:
DEXRON(R)-VI Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs
for General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids.
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 04-07-30-037D (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS / TRANSFER CASES and POWER STEERING
The content of this bulletin does not apply to manual transmissions or transfer cases. Any vehicle
that previously required DEXRON(R)-III for a manual transmission or transfer case should now use
P/N 88861800. This fluid is labeled Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid. Some manual
transmissions and transfer cases require a different fluid. Appropriate references should be
checked when servicing any of these components.
Power Steering Systems should now use P/N 9985010 labeled Power Steering Fluid.
Consult the Parts Catalog, Owner's Manual, or Service Information (SI) for fluid recommendations.
Some of our customers and/or General Motors dealerships/Saturn Retailers may have some
concerns with DEXRON(R)-VI and DEXRON(R)-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF) and
transmission warranty claims. DEXRON(R)-VI is the only approved fluid for warranty repairs for
General Motors transmissions/transaxles requiring DEXRON(R)-III and/or prior DEXRON(R)
transmission fluids (except as noted above). Please remember that the clean oil reservoirs of the
J-45096 - Flushing and Flow Tester machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with
DEXRON(R)-VI for testing, flushing or filling General Motors transmissions/transaxles (except as
noted above).
DEXRON(R)-VI can be used in any proportion in past model vehicles equipped with an automatic
transmission/transaxle in place of DEXRON(R)-III (i.e. topping off the fluid in the event of a repair
or fluid change). DEXRON(R)-VI is also compatible with any former version of DEXRON(R) for use
in automatic transmissions/transaxles.
DEXRON(R)-VI ATF
General Motors Powertrain has upgraded to DEXRON(R)-VI ATF with the start of 2006 vehicle
production.
Current and prior automatic transmission models that had used DEXRON(R)-III must now only use
DEXRON(R)-VI.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7687
All 2006 and future model transmissions that use DEXRON(R)-VI are to be serviced ONLY with
DEXRON(R)-VI fluid.
DEXRON(R)-VI is an improvement over DEXRON(R)-III in the following areas:
* These ATF change intervals remain the same as DEXRON(R)-III for the time being.
2006-2008 Transmission Fill and Cooler Flushing
Some new applications of the 6L80 six speed transmission will require the use of the J 45096 Flushing and Flow Tester to accomplish transmission fluid fill. The clean oil reservoir of the
machine should be purged of DEXRON(R)-III and filled with DEXRON(R)-VI.
Parts Information
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7688
Fluid - A/T: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - DEXRON(R)-VI Fluid Information > Page 7689
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - A/T: Capacity Specifications
4L60-E TRANSMISSION Pan removal ...............................................................................................
................................................................................................................. 5.0 qts. Overhaul ...............
..............................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 11.0 qts.
4L80-E TRANSMISSION Pan removal ...............................................................................................
................................................................................................................. 7.7 qts. Overhaul ...............
..............................................................................................................................................................
...................................... 13.5 qts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 7692
Fluid - A/T: Fluid Type Specifications
DEXRON-III Automatic Transmission Fluid (or equivalent).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Fluid level should be checked at every engine oil change. Frequency of change for transmission
fluid is dependent on the type of driving conditions in which the vehicle is used. If the transmission
is subjected to severe service such as: use in heavy city traffic when the outside temperature
regularly reaches 90°F, use in very hilly or mountainous areas, commercial use such as taxi or
delivery service, the fluid should be changed every 15,000 miles when using Dexron II and 50,000
miles when using Dexron III or equivalent. Otherwise, change the fluid every 100,000 miles, using
Dexron II, III or equivalent automatic transmission fluid. When checking fluid, ensure vehicle is at
operating temperature (190°-200°F), which can be obtained by 15 miles of highway-type driving.
After transmission fluid is at operating temperature, use the following procedure to check fluid level:
1. Ensure vehicle is on a level surface, then move gear selector to the Park position. 2. Apply
parking brake and block wheels, then allow engine to run at idle speed for three minutes with
accessories off. 3. Check fluid level, color and condition.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Testing and Inspection > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E > Page 7695
Fluid - A/T: Testing and Inspection Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Check fluid at regular intervals. Noticing a change in color, odor or fluid level can serve as a
warning of possible transmission problems. To check fluid level, bring fluid to operating
temperature of 200°F. With vehicle on a level surface, engine idling in park and parking brake
applied, the level on the dipstick should be at the Full mark. To bring the fluid level from the Add
mark to the Full mark requires one pint of fluid. If additional fluid is required, use only Dexron II
automatic transmission fluid. When adding fluid, do not overfill, as foaming and loss of fluid through
the vent may occur as the fluid heats up. Also, If fluid level is too low, complete loss of drive may
occur especially when cold, which can cause transmission failure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
The normal schedule is 30,000 miles for vehicles under 8600 lbs. GVWR OR 24,000 for vehicles
over 8600 lbs. GVWR. If vehicle is driven in heavy city traffic where outside temperature regularly
reaches 90°F or higher, in hilly or mountain terrain, is used for frequent trailer pulling or is used in
taxi, police, delivery or other commercial service, maintenance schedule for drain and refill is
15,000 miles for all vehicles under 8600 lbs. GVWR or 12,000 miles for vehicles over 8600 lbs.
GVWR. Change fluid and filter as follows:
1. Raise vehicle and position drain pan under transmission pan. 2. Remove front and side attaching
bolts from the oil pan. 3. Loosen rear attaching bolts approximately four turns. 4. Carefully pry
transmission pan loose and allow fluid to drain. 5. Remove rear attaching bolts, pan and pan
gasket. 6. Drain remaining fluid from pan, then clean pan and gasket surfaces with solvent and dry
with compressed air. 7. Remove transmission screen. Remove seal from intake pipe or case bore.
8. Replace screen if applicable, or thoroughly clean screen assembly with solvent and dry with
compressed air. 9. Install seal on intake pipe, then install screen assembly.
10. Install gasket on pan, then install pan and tighten to specifications. 11. Lower vehicle and add
approximately 9 pts. of Dexron II type transmission fluid through filler tube. 12. Start engine and let
run at idle, then with brakes applied move selector lever through each gear range. 13. Place
transmission in Park position and check fluid level.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD > Page 7698
Fluid - A/T: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E
Changing Fluid
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Loosen two bolts attaching right side of transmission support to
frame rail. 3. Remove two bolts attaching left side transmission support to frame rail. 4. Using
suitable transmission jack, support and slightly raise transmission. 5. Slide transmission support
rearward enough to access rear oil pan attaching bolts. 6. Place drain pan under transmission oil
pan, loosen pan bolts on front of pan, pry carefully with screwdriver to loosen oil pan, and allow
fluid to
drain.
7. Remove remaining oil pan bolts, oil pan, and gasket. 8. Drain fluid from pan, then clean pan and
dry thoroughly with compressed air. 9. Remove oil filter to valve body bolt, then remove filter and
gasket, replace with new filter and gasket.
10. Install new gasket on oil pan, then oil pan and attaching bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to
specification. 11. Lower vehicle and add five quarts of automatic transmission fluid through filler
tube. 12. With selector lever in Park and parking brake applied, start engine and let idle. Do not
race engine. 13. Move selector lever through each gear range, then return lever to park. 14. Check
fluid, then add additional fluid to bring level between dimples on dipstick.
Adding Fluid to A Dry Transmission
1. Add transmission fluid through filler tube until oil level is between the "ADD" and "HOT" marks on
dipstick. 2. Place selector lever in park, depress accelerator to place carburetor on fast idle cam,
and move selector lever through each range. Do not race
engine.
3. With selector lever in park, engine running at idle (1-3 minutes), and vehicle on level surface,
check fluid level and add additional fluid to bring
level between dimples on dipstick.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Fluid Pan: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Removal
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Installation
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7703
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7704
Fluid Pan: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Removal
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Installation
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pan, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7705
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 577126B > Apr > 97 > A/T - Transmission
Fluid Leak From Pump Body
Fluid Pump: Customer Interest A/T - Transmission Fluid Leak From Pump Body
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 57-71-26B
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Transmission Fluid Leak from Pump Body (Replace Bushing)
Models: 1995-96
Buick Road master
1995-96 Cadillac Fleetwood
1995-96 Chevrolet Caprice, Camaro, Corvette
1995-96 Pontiac Firebird
1995-96 Chevrolet and GMC Truck C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
This bulletin is being revised to remove the Warrant Statement under correction to GMC dealers.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin number 57-71-26A (Section 7 - Transmission).
Condition
(Figure 1) Some owners may experience a pump fluid leak. Starting September 11, 1995 (Julian
Date 254) all units are built using a revised design body bushing.
Cause
The pump bushing is spinning or walking out of the body.
Correction
Replace the pump body bushing using Kent-Moore tool J 41778.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 577126B > Apr > 97 > A/T - Transmission
Fluid Leak From Pump Body > Page 7714
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 577126B > Apr > 97 > A/T - Transmission
Fluid Leak From Pump Body > Page 7715
Removal and Replacement Procedure (Figures 2-5)
1. Remove the front helix retainer (244).
2. Remove the oil seal assembly (243).
3. Remove the pump body bushing (242) using tool J 41778-1.
4. Install new bushing using J 41778-2 as a positive stop and an Arbor Press with J 41778-1.
Refer to your service manual for proper pump assembly removal and replacement procedures.
Parts Information
Part # Description
* 24206030 Bushing-Pump Body
* This part will service all 4L60 and 4L60-E applications from 1982-1996.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
Use published labor
K7121 operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677148 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engagement Delay
When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours
Fluid Pump: Customer Interest A/T - Engagement Delay When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-48
Date: July, 1996
Subject: Delayed Engagement (Replace Pump Cover Assembly)
Models: 1995-96 Buick Roadmaster 1995-96 Cadillac Fleetwood 1995-96 Chevrolet Caprice,
Camaro, Corvette 1995-96 Pontiac Firebird 1995-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Important:
GMC Truck dealers should NOT utilize this bulletin for in-warranty repairs. If this condition is
experienced, a Goodwrench Transmission Assembly should be used. Refer to Bulletin 367106A,
Automatic Transmission Service Procedure Changes, published September, 1995 for in-warranty
repairs. Out of warranty repairs may utilize this bulletin.
Important:
Canadian dealers should repair transmissions following established repair practices.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677148 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engagement Delay
When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours > Page 7720
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models, with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (Built before April
29, 1996/Julian Date 6120), may experience some delayed engagement when vehicle is not used
for more than 48 hours.
Cause
Torque converter fluid level low due to fluid drain down.
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace pump cover assembly with the new TCC signal valve assembly.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677148 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engagement Delay
When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours > Page 7721
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
K7121 Replace Pump Use published labor
Cover Assembly operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 04-07-30-006 >
Feb > 04 > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Fluid Pump: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-006
Date: February 11, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 and 200-4R Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Spring First and
Second Design Identification
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2004 HUMMER H2
with 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 or 200-4R Automatic Transmission
The purpose of this bulletin is to identify the oil pump spring usage for the two different pump
designs. Manufacturing of the first design oil pump springs ended December 15, 2003.
Manufacturing of the second design oil pump spring began December 16, 2003
The first design oil pump springs (206) and (207) DO NOT have any identification markings. The
first design springs (206) and (207) use an inner and outer spring, two springs.
The second design oil pump spring (245) is identified with tapered ends on the spring (245) as
shown above. The second design spring (245) is a single spring.
When servicing either (first design or second design) oil pump body, use the new single oil pump
spring (245) with tapered ends.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 04-07-30-006 >
Feb > 04 > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring > Page 7727
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 577126B > Apr >
97 > A/T - Transmission Fluid Leak From Pump Body
Fluid Pump: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Transmission Fluid Leak From Pump Body
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 57-71-26B
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Transmission Fluid Leak from Pump Body (Replace Bushing)
Models: 1995-96
Buick Road master
1995-96 Cadillac Fleetwood
1995-96 Chevrolet Caprice, Camaro, Corvette
1995-96 Pontiac Firebird
1995-96 Chevrolet and GMC Truck C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
This bulletin is being revised to remove the Warrant Statement under correction to GMC dealers.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin number 57-71-26A (Section 7 - Transmission).
Condition
(Figure 1) Some owners may experience a pump fluid leak. Starting September 11, 1995 (Julian
Date 254) all units are built using a revised design body bushing.
Cause
The pump bushing is spinning or walking out of the body.
Correction
Replace the pump body bushing using Kent-Moore tool J 41778.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 577126B > Apr >
97 > A/T - Transmission Fluid Leak From Pump Body > Page 7732
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 577126B > Apr >
97 > A/T - Transmission Fluid Leak From Pump Body > Page 7733
Removal and Replacement Procedure (Figures 2-5)
1. Remove the front helix retainer (244).
2. Remove the oil seal assembly (243).
3. Remove the pump body bushing (242) using tool J 41778-1.
4. Install new bushing using J 41778-2 as a positive stop and an Arbor Press with J 41778-1.
Refer to your service manual for proper pump assembly removal and replacement procedures.
Parts Information
Part # Description
* 24206030 Bushing-Pump Body
* This part will service all 4L60 and 4L60-E applications from 1982-1996.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
Use published labor
K7121 operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 677148 > Jul > 96
> A/T - Engagement Delay When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours
Fluid Pump: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engagement Delay When Vehicle Unused for 48
Hours
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-48
Date: July, 1996
Subject: Delayed Engagement (Replace Pump Cover Assembly)
Models: 1995-96 Buick Roadmaster 1995-96 Cadillac Fleetwood 1995-96 Chevrolet Caprice,
Camaro, Corvette 1995-96 Pontiac Firebird 1995-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Important:
GMC Truck dealers should NOT utilize this bulletin for in-warranty repairs. If this condition is
experienced, a Goodwrench Transmission Assembly should be used. Refer to Bulletin 367106A,
Automatic Transmission Service Procedure Changes, published September, 1995 for in-warranty
repairs. Out of warranty repairs may utilize this bulletin.
Important:
Canadian dealers should repair transmissions following established repair practices.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 677148 > Jul > 96
> A/T - Engagement Delay When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours > Page 7738
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models, with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (Built before April
29, 1996/Julian Date 6120), may experience some delayed engagement when vehicle is not used
for more than 48 hours.
Cause
Torque converter fluid level low due to fluid drain down.
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace pump cover assembly with the new TCC signal valve assembly.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 677148 > Jul > 96
> A/T - Engagement Delay When Vehicle Unused for 48 Hours > Page 7739
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
K7121 Replace Pump Use published labor
Cover Assembly operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 04-07-30-006 > Feb >
04 > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Fluid Pump: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring
Bulletin No.: 04-07-30-006
Date: February 11, 2004
INFORMATION
Subject: 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 and 200-4R Automatic Transmission Oil Pump Spring First and
Second Design Identification
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2004 HUMMER H2
with 4L65-E, 4L60-E, 4L60 or 200-4R Automatic Transmission
The purpose of this bulletin is to identify the oil pump spring usage for the two different pump
designs. Manufacturing of the first design oil pump springs ended December 15, 2003.
Manufacturing of the second design oil pump spring began December 16, 2003
The first design oil pump springs (206) and (207) DO NOT have any identification markings. The
first design springs (206) and (207) use an inner and outer spring, two springs.
The second design oil pump spring (245) is identified with tapered ends on the spring (245) as
shown above. The second design spring (245) is a single spring.
When servicing either (first design or second design) oil pump body, use the new single oil pump
spring (245) with tapered ends.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid Pump, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Fluid Pump: > 04-07-30-006 > Feb >
04 > A/T - 4L65E, 4L60E, 4L60, 200-4R Oil Pump Spring > Page 7745
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Governor, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Governor: Service and Repair
1. Raise and support vehicle 2. Remove governor cover from case using extreme care not to
damage cover. If cover is damaged, it should be replaced. 3. Remove governor. 4. Reverse
procedure to install and check fluid level.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Output Shaft, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Output Shaft: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-042F
Date: February 05, 2010
Subject: Information on 2-3 Upshift or 3-2 Downshift Clunk Noise
Models:
2010 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3
2005-2009 Saab 9-7X with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32,
M70)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2010 model year and 4L70E transmission.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-042E (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important For 2005 model year fullsize utilities and pickups, refer to Corporate Bulletin
05-07-30-012.
Some vehicles may exhibit a clunk noise that can be heard on a 2-3 upshift or a 3-2 downshift.
During a 2-3 upshift, the 2-4 band is released and the 3-4 clutch is applied. The timing of this shift
can cause a momentary torque reversal of the output shaft that results in a clunk noise. This same
torque reversal can also occur on a 3-2 downshift when the 3-4 clutch is released and the 2-4 band
applied. This condition may be worse on a 4-wheel drive vehicle due to the additional tolerances in
the transfer case.
This is a normal condition. No repairs should be attempted.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Parking Pawl, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Parking Pawl: Service and Repair
REMOVAL
1. Drain and remove oil pan, then filter and gasket.
Fig. 16 Park Lock Assembly.
2. Remove lever retaining nut, then pin Fig. 16. 3. Remove detent lever and actuator assembly. 4.
Remove parking pawl bracket, spring and pawl return spring plug. 5. Remove parking pawl shaft
hole plug, retainer, shaft and pawl. 6. Remove manual shift shaft seal assembly and shaft. 7.
Remove speed sensors.
INSTALLATION
1. Install pawl shaft and parking pawl. 2. Install parking lock pawl plug with Loctite using a 7/16 inch
rod. 3. Install retainer, stud and pawl return spring. 4. Install detent lever to actuator assembly. 5.
Install actuator assembly over parking pawl. 6. Install manual shaft and seal. 7. Install lever nut on
shaft. 8. Install roll pin, then parking lock bracket. Tighten bolts to specifications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module:
> 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module:
> 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 7765
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Relays and Modules A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 7771
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E Automatic Transaxle
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E Automatic Transaxle
1. Remove driveshaft, and tunnel strap, if equipped. 2. Using suitable tool, pry out lip oil seal. 3.
Coat outer casting of new oil seal with suitable sealer and drive into place with seal installer tool
No. J-21426 or equivalent. 4. Install tunnel strap if used, then install driveshaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Seals and Gaskets, A/T
> System Information > Service and Repair > Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L60-E Automatic Transaxle > Page 7776
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Turbo Hydra-Matic 4L80-E & 4L80-EHD
1. Remove driveshaft, and tunnel strap, as equipped. 2. Using suitable tool, pry out lip oil seal. 3.
Coat outer casting of new oil seal with suitable sealer and drive into place with installer tool Nos.
J-38694 or J-38869 or equivalents. 4. Install driveshaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup
Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup
Lamp Switch > Page 7784
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup
Lamp Switch > Page 7785
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7788
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7789
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7790
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7791
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7792
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7793
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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Instructions > Page 7808
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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Instructions > Page 7809
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Instructions > Page 7810
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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Instructions > Page 7811
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7812
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Instructions > Page 7813
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and
Instructions > Page 7814
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Instructions > Page 7815
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Instructions > Page 7816
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Instructions > Page 7817
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Instructions > Page 7818
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Instructions > Page 7819
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
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Instructions > Page 7820
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
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Instructions > Page 7821
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
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Instructions > Page 7822
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
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Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
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Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 7828
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sensors and Switches A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
> Page 7833
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Interlock, A/T >
Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information > Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
RH side of steering column, under Support bracket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th
Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th
Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7846
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare
During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare
During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7851
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss
of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss
of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling > Page 7857
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift
Solenoid Update
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 37-71-48A
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Transmission Product Updates (New Shift Solenoids)
Models: 1991-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, P, G Models 1991 Chevrolet and GMC R/V Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L8O-E Transmission (RPO MT1)
This bulletin is being revised to update the part numbers and to include 1995-97 model years.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 377148 (Section 7 - Transmission).
Service Information
Starting August 14, 1996 (Julian date 226) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E transmissions are being built
with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids are serviced for all 1991 through 1997
4L80-E applications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift
Solenoid Update > Page 7862
Parts Information
Previous Part New Part Description
10478125 10478132 Valve assembly, 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Black)
10478126 10478133 Valve assembly, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (White)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine
Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine
Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift > Page 7867
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 66-90-03 > Jun > 97
> Keyless Entry - Unintended Release of Rear Hatch
Power Trunk / Liftgate Lock Actuator: All Technical Service Bulletins Keyless Entry - Unintended
Release of Rear Hatch
File In Section: 9 - Accessories
Bulletin No.: 66-90-03
Date: June, 1997
Subject: Unintended Release of Rear Hatch (Replace Transmitter Cover)
Models: 1994-96
Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G Models
1994 Oldsmobile Bravada
1996 Oldsmobile Bravada
Condition
An owner may report that the Rear Hatch Releases without their being aware of it.
Cause
The Keyless Entry Transmitter Button is unintentionally bumped activating the hatch release.
Correction
Replace the Keyless Entry Transmitter Cover. The revised cover has a deeper recess around the
release button making it less prone to inadvertent bumping.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
15740707 Bezel, Transmitter Cover 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
R4490 Control Assembly 0.3 hr
Cover - Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7880
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7883
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7886
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7887
Manual Valve Link
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7888
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7889
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7890
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7891
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7892
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7893
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7894
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7895
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7896
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7897
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7898
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7899
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7900
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7901
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7902
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7903
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7904
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7905
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7906
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7907
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7908
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7909
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7910
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7911
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7912
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7913
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7914
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7915
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7916
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7917
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Solenoid, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 7918
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E (M30) Transmission
Shift Cable: Service and Repair 4L60-E (M30) Transmission
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Apply the parking brake
- Position the steering column shift lever to park.
- Raise and support the vehicle.
1. Front seat. 2. Door sill trim plate. 3. Hinge pillar trim panel. 4. Carpet and carpet retainers on the
driver's side to expose the shift cable. 5. Steering column filler panel from the steering column.
6. Shift cable from the steering column shift control.
- Prior to removing the shift cable from the vehicle, ensure that the transmission is in the
mechanical park position. The transmission control lever can be positioned to mechanical park by
rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches its full clockwise stop position.
7. Shift cable from clip and/or tape on floor pan.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E (M30) Transmission > Page 7924
8. Retaining clip securing the shift cable to the transmission shift cable bracket.
- Squeeze the retainers while pulling the cable towards the rear of the vehicle.
9. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the cable end from the
transmission shift control lever stud ball.
10. Shift cable from under the fuel line and from the rear transmission bracket.
- Note the routing of shift cable on the vehicle prior to removing the shift cable from the vehicle.
11. Shift cable grommet from the floor panel. 12. Shift cable from the vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Prior to installing the shift cable to the vehicle, ensure that the column shift lever and the
transmission control lever are in the mechanical park position. The transmission control lever can
be positioned to mechanical park by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches its full
clockwise stop position.
1. Shift cable to the vehicle.
- Route the shift cable as noted during removal.
2. Shift cable grommet to floor panel. 3. Shift cable to the clip and/or tape on the floor pan. 4. Shift
cable end to the steering column shift control. 5. Steering column filler panel to the steering
column. 6. Carpet and carpet retainers on the driver's side. 7. Door sill trim plate. 8. Hinge pillar
trim panel. 9. Front seat.
10. Ensure that the shift lever is in park.
- Raise the vehicle.
11. Route shift cable under fuel lines and connect to rear transmission bracket. 12. Attach the shift
cable to transmission shift cable bracket and secure with retaining clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E (M30) Transmission > Page 7925
13. Remove the black shipping clip and discard. 14. Shift cable end to the transmission shift control
lever by pushing the cable end onto the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 15. Adjust the
shift cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E (M30) Transmission > Page 7926
Shift Cable: Service and Repair 4L80-E (MT1) Transmission
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Apply the parking brake
- Position the steering column shift lever to park.
- Raise and support the vehicle.
1. Front seat. 2. Door sill trim plate. 3. Hinge pillar trim panel. 4. Carpet and carpet retainers on the
driver's side to expose the shift cable. 5. Steering column filler panel from the steering column.
6. Shift cable from the steering column shift control.
- Prior to removing the shift cable from the vehicle, ensure that the transmission is in the
mechanical park position. The transmission control lever can be positioned to mechanical park by
rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches its full clockwise stop position.
7. Shift cable from clip and/or tape on floor pan.
8. Retaining clip securing the shift cable to the transmission shift cable bracket.
- Squeeze the retainers while pulling the cable towards the rear of the vehicle.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Shift Linkage, A/T >
Shift Cable, A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair > 4L60-E (M30) Transmission > Page 7927
9. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the cable end from the
transmission shift control lever stud ball.
10. Shift cable from under the fuel line and from the rear transmission bracket.
- Note the routing of shift cable on the vehicle prior to removing the shift cable from the vehicle.
11. Shift cable grommet from the floor panel. 12. Shift cable from the vehicle.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Prior to installing the shift cable to the vehicle, ensure that the column shift lever and the
transmission control lever are in the mechanical park position. The transmission control lever can
be positioned to mechanical park by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches its full
clockwise stop position.
1. Shift cable to the vehicle.
- Route the shift cable as noted during removal.
2. Shift cable grommet to floor panel. 3. Shift cable to the clip and/or tape on the floor pan. 4. Shift
cable end to the steering column shift control. 5. Steering column filler panel to the steering
column. 6. Carpet and carpet retainers on the driver's side. 7. Door sill trim plate. 8. Hinge pillar
trim panel. 9. Front seat.
10. Ensure that the shift lever is in park.
- Raise the vehicle.
11. Route shift cable under fuel lines and connect to rear transmission bracket. 12. Attach the shift
cable to transmission shift cable bracket and secure with retaining clip.
13. Remove the black shipping clip and discard. 14. Shift cable end to the transmission shift control
lever by pushing the cable end onto the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 15. Adjust the
shift cable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Speedometer Gear,
A/T > Component Information > Service and Repair
Speedometer Gear, A/T: Service and Repair
1. Disconnect speedometer cable or P.M. generator electrical connector at transmission. 2.
Remove retainer bolt, retainer, P.M. generator if equipped, speedometer driven gear and O-ring
seal. 3. Reverse procedure to install, using new O-ring and adding fluid as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7939
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E, No
Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7940
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
Sun Gear: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60/65E, No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear
TECHNICAL
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-022D
Date: June 10, 2008
Subject: No Reverse, Second Gear or Fourth Gear (Replace Reaction Sun Shell with More Robust
Heat Treated Parts)
Models: 1993 - 2005 GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003 - 2005 HUMMER H2
with 4L60/65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add 2005 model year to the parts information. Please
discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-07-30-022C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a no reverse, no second or no fourth gear condition. First and
third gears will operate properly.
Cause
The reaction sun gear (673) may not hold inside the reaction sun shell (670).
Correction
Important:
There are FOUR distinct groups of vehicles and repair procedures involved. Vehicles built in the
2001 model year and prior that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust washer:
^ The sun shell can be identified by four square holes used to retain the thrust washer. Use
reaction sun shell P/N 24228345, reaction carrier to shell thrust washer (699B) P/N 8642202 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674) P/N 8642331er (674) P/N 8642331along with the
appropriate seals and washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and prior that have had previous service to the reaction sun
shell: It is possible that some 2001 and prior model year vehicles have had previous service to the
reaction sun shell. At the time of service, these vehicles may have been updated with a Reaction
Sun Shell Kit (Refer to Service Bulletin 020730003) without four square holes to retain the thrust
washer. If it is found in a 2001 model year and prior vehicles that the reaction sun shell DOES NOT
have four square holes to retain the thrust washer, these vehicles must be serviced with P/Ns
24229825 (674), 24217328 and 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and washers listed
below.
^ Vehicles built in the 2001 model year and later that make use of a reaction shaft to shell thrust
bearing: The sun shell can be identified by no holes to retain the thrust washer. Use reaction sun
shell, P/N 24229825, reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A), P/N 24217328 and
reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674), P/N 8642331 along with the appropriate seals and
washers listed below.
^ Vehicles built from November, 2001 through June, 2002: These vehicles should have the reaction
carrier shaft replaced when the sun shell is replaced. Use shell kit P/N 24229853, which contains a
sun shell (670), a reaction carrier shaft (666), a reaction carrier shaft to shell thrust bearing (669A)
and a reaction sun gear shell thrust washer (674). The appropriate seals and washers listed below
should also be used.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Follow the service procedure below for diagnosis and correction of the no reverse, no second, no
forth condition.
Important:
If metallic debris is found on the transmission magnet, the transmission must be completely
disassembled and cleaned. Metallic debris is defined as broken parts and pieces of internal
transmission components. This should not be confused with typical "normal" fine particles found on
all transmission magnets. Failure to properly clean the transmission case and internal components
may lead to additional repeat repairs.
1. Remove the transmission oil pan and inspect the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal
debris. Refer to SI Document ID # 825141.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7946
2. Remove the transmission from the vehicle. Refer to the appropriate SI document.
Important:
^ Inspect all the transmission components for damage or wear. Replace all damaged or worn
components. The parts shown above should be sufficient to correct this concern.
^ This condition does not normally require replacement of the transmission completely.
Components such as clutches, valve body, pump and torque converters will NOT require
replacement to correct this condition.
Disassemble the transmission and replace the appropriate parts listed below. Refer to the Unit
Repair Manual - Repair Instructions.
3. Reinstall the transmission in the vehicle. Refer to appropriate service information.
When servicing the transmission as a result of this condition, the transmission oil cooler and lines
MUST be flushed. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-022D > Jun > 08 > A/T - 4L60/65E,
No Reverse/2nd or 4th Gear > Page 7947
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition
Malfunction Indicator Lamp: All Technical Service Bulletins PROM - MIL ON, Poor Driveability
Condition
File In Section: 6E - Engine Fuel & Emission
Bulletin No.: 76-65-04
Date: March, 1997
Subject: Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) On, Poor Driveability Conditions (Perform Flash
Calibration)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC Light Duty Trucks 1996-97 Chevrolet Tiltmaster and GMC
Forward W4 Models 1996-97 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4.3L, 5.0L, 5.7L Engines (VINs X, W, M, R RPOs LF6, L35, L3O, L31)
Condition
An owner of the above mentioned vehicles may report that the Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) is
on and/or the vehicle has one or more of the following driveability conditions.
1. 5.7L (L31) only: Surge or chuggle at speeds of 42 to 65 MPH while at steady speed or under
light to moderate acceleration with the TCC applied.
2. MIL on with DTC P0172 or P0175 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
3. MIL on with TDC P1406 stored and rough engine or poor driveability symptoms.
4. When operating at altitudes above 5,000 feet, an audible spark knock noise is heard.
5. Hesitation and/or misfire during light cruise conditions due to ignition cross-fire with no DTC
stored. This will only occur on V-6 engines with cam retard offset in excess of 26° and V-8's with
cam retard offset in excess of 15°.
6. The MIL may be on and a DTC stored for an engine misfire but no misfire occurred.
7. Engine exhibits an idle speed surge or roll.
1996 Models Only
8. MIL on with DTC P0102 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
9. 5.0L (L30) & 5.7L (L31) only: Difficult starting in extreme cold (below 0° F) conditions.
10. 5.7L (L31) only: Poorer than expected fuel economy when heavily loaded.
1997 Models Only
11. MIL on with DTC P0121 stored but no reported driveability symptoms.
12. C/K & S/T Models with either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between
shifts may be noted when the engine is cold.
13. Either V-6 engine and manual transmission: An engine flare between shifts may be noted when
the engine is cold.
14. C/K, S/T and M/L Models equipped with L35 V-6 engine, an improvement to the vapor canister
purge diagnostics is incorporated into the new calibrations so that the Tech II can turn on canister
purge at idle speed.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7953
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7954
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7955
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7956
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7957
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7958
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7964
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7965
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7966
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7967
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7968
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Sun Gear > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Sun Gear: > 766504 > Mar > 97 > PROM - MIL
ON, Poor Driveability Condition > Page 7969
Follow the Strategy Based Diagnostic Steps for the customer's reported symptoms. If diagnosis
does not reveal a cause, refer to the tables below for the applicable calibration change. Perform
programming per the latest Techline information for programming procedures.
Important
The calibrations listed are FLASH calibrations and are not available from GMSPO. They are
available on 1997 Techline CD Disc 5 and later.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J-6355 Use Published Labor
Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Description and Operation
Throttle Valve Cable/Linkage: Description and Operation
Fig. 9 TV Cable And Linkage.
Fig. 10 Throttle Lever And Bracket Assembly.
The throttle cable controls line pressures, shift points, shift feel, part throttle downshifts, and detent
downshifts. The function of the cable is similar to the combined functions of a vacuum modulator
and detent downshift cable. The cable operates the throttle lever and bracket assembly, Figs. 9
and 10.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Throttle Valve
Cable/Linkage, A/T > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 7973
Throttle Valve Cable/Linkage: Adjustments
1. Stop engine.
Fig. 11 TV Cable Adjustment.
2. Depress and hold down readjust tab, Fig. 11, move slider through fitting, away from lever
assembly, until slider stops against fitting. 3. Release readjust tab, then open throttle lever to its full
throttle position to automatically adjust cable. 4. Release throttle lever and check cable for sticking
or binding. The cable may appear to function properly with engine stopped and cold.
Recheck cable with engine at normal operating temperature.
5. Road test vehicle.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Thrust Washer/Bearing,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - New Design Reaction Shell Thrust Washer
Thrust Washer/Bearing: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - New Design Reaction Shell Thrust
Washer
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-003
Date: January, 2002
INFORMATION
Subject: Engineering Changes to Reaction Shell Thrust Washer and Use of New Service Kit
Models: 2001 and Prior Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 2001 and Prior Pontiac Firebird 2001 and
Prior Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models (Silverado, Tahoe, Suburban, Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL)
2001 and Prior Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L-Van Models (Express, Savana, Astro, Safari) 2001 and
Prior Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models (S10, Blazer, Sonoma, Jimmy) 2001 and Prior Oldsmobile
Bravada With 4L60/4L65-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30 or M32)
The reaction shaft to reaction shell thrust washer was changed to a thrust bearing during the 2001
model year. This change required additional changes to the input carrier to reaction shaft thrust
bearing, the reaction carrier shaft and the reaction sun shell.
Important:
Due to the changes in these components, the service kit must be used when servicing any of these
components. Do not mix components of the old style with components of the new style. If you mix
components, transmission end play will be compromised and transmission shifting may not occur.
A service kit is available that will allow these revised components to be used in those transmissions
that were built with the previous style components. The new service kit as well as the previous style
components are both available through GMSPO.
Parts Information
The service kit part number is provided for your information.
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
DISCLAIMER
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
Torque Converter: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-010C
Date: May 12, 2008
Subject: Automatic Transmission/Transaxle Torque Converter Replacement
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009
and Prior Saturn Cars and Light Duty Trucks (Except VTi Equipped Vehicles (RPO M16 and M75)
2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with ALL Automatic Transmissions and Transaxles
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007-2009 model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-07-30-010B (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
The purpose of this bulletin is to help technicians determine when a torque converter should be
replaced. Below is a list of general guidelines to follow.
The converter should NOT be replaced if the following apply:
^ DTC P0742 - TCC stuck on is set. This code is almost always the result of a controls condition
(i.e. stuck TCC solenoid/valve). Experience has shown that this code rarely indicates a mechanical
concern within the torque converter.
^ The fluid has an odor or is discolored but no evidence of metal contamination.
^ Fine metal particles (traces of metal flakes/gray color to fluid ) are found in the converter. This is
not harmful to the torque converter.
^ The vehicle has been exposed to high mileage.
^ A small amount of wear appears on the hub where the oil pump drive gear mates to the converter
(RWD only). A certain amount of such wear is normal for both the hub and oil pump gear. Neither
the converter nor the front pump assembly should be replaced.
The torque converter should be replaced under any of the following conditions:
^ The vehicle has TCC shudder and/or no TCC apply. First complete all electrical and hydraulic
diagnosis and check for proper engine operation. The converter clutch may be damaged. Also the
converter bushing and/or internal 0-ring may be damaged.
^ Evidence of damage to the oil pump assembly pump shaft turbine shaft drive sprocket support
and bearing or metal chips/debris in the converter.
^ Metal chips/debris are found in the converter or when flushing the cooler and the cooler lines.
^ External leaks in the hub weld area lug weld or closure weld.
^ Converter pilot is broken damaged or fits poorly into the crankshaft.
^ The converter hub is scored or damaged.
^ The transmission oil is contaminated with engine coolant engine oil or water.
^ If excessive end play is found after measuring the converter for proper end play (refer to Service
Manual).
^ If metal chips/debris are found in the fluid filter or on the magnet and no internal parts in the unit
are worn or damaged. This indicates that the material came from the converter.
^ The converter has an unbalanced condition that results in a vibration that cannot be corrected by
following Converter Vibration Procedures.
^ Blue converter or dark circular ring between lugs. This condition will also require a complete
cleaning of the cooler and a check for adequate flow
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Torque Converter Replacement Information > Page 7982
through the cooler.
^ Converter bearing noise determined by noise from the bell housing area in Drive or Reverse at
idle. The noise is gone in Neutral and Park.
^ If silicon from the viscous clutch is found in the lower pan (4T80-E ONLY).
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch: >
77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Torque Converter Clutch: Customer Interest A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter
Clutch: > 77-71-53 > Apr > 97 > A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's
Torque Converter Clutch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No
DTC's
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-53
Date: April, 1997
Subject: Chuggle/Surge on TCC Apply/No DTC's (Reflash PCM)
Models: 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models with 5.7L Engine (VIN R - RPO L31) and
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30)
Condition
Some owners of the above models may experience a chuggle/surge when TCC is applied under
light throttle acceleration.
Cause
Engine inputs (Combustion events) exciting the vehicle platform/driveline or tire balance may be a
contributing factor.
Correction
First ensure the most recent engine, not transmission calibration has been installed (Corp. #
76-65-04) and check tire balance.
A new transmission calibration to correct chuggle/surge is available for use on vehicles with
persistent concerns only.
Important:
This calibration will raise TCC engagement approximately 7-10 mph depending on application. This
calibration should not be installed until the engine calibration listed above has been installed.
Installation of this calibration may lead to decreased fuel economy due to TCC engagement at
higher speeds.
Reflash the Powertrain Control Module with the appropriate part numbers below.
Refer to your Service Manual for proper procedure.
Parts Information
This new calibration will be available starting with the 1997 Disc 4 update.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Labor Time
J6355 Reflash Control Module
Use published labor operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8004
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8005
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque
Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque
Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page
8011
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Torque Converter
Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque
Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page
8012
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-052G
Date: March 02, 2011
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow(R)
Models:
2011 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2010 HUMMER H2 2006-2010
HUMMER H3 with Automatic Transmission/Transaxle including Allison(R) Transmissions
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052F (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
The J 45096 transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test tool replaces current tool J
35944-A. J 45096 is a self-contained unit utilizing a 12-volt flow meter, shop air supply and
DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid (ATF). In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled
through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid
stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris.
In the flow mode, an electronic flow meter is used to measure the flow capability of the ATF oil
cooling system. A digital display indicates the ATF oil flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) along
with the amount of ATF oil in the supply vessel, supply vessel ATF oil temperature, machine cycles
and the operating mode. The supply oil vessel has 30 L (32 qt) capacity and the waste oil vessel
has 32 L (34 qt) capacity. The waste oil vessel is constructed of a translucent composite material
that allows the user to easily identify the oil level. The waste oil vessel can accommodate vacuum
evacuation and gravity draining. In the code mode, a random, encrypted code is generated that can
be used for verification of flow test results.
Current essential cooler line adapters are used to connect the J 45096 to the automatic
transmission oil cooler lines that allows J 45096 to adapt to General Motors passenger cars and
light duty trucks, current and past models (except the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo).
The tool may be adapted for use on the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo by dealership
personnel with a barbed hose connector and rubber hose obtained locally. The
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission has a transmission oil requirement which is slightly different
than DEXRON(R) VI ATF. However, flushing the cooler with DEXRON(R) VI automatic
transmission fluid is an acceptable service procedure. Very little fluid remains in the cooler after the
flush procedure and the residual DEXRON(R) VI ATF in the cooler is compatible with the
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission fluid.
Notice
Insufficient oil flow through the ATF oil cooling system will cause premature transmission failure.
The required minimum ATF oil flow rate reading is directly related to the supply oil temperature.
Refer to the flow rate reference chart for the oil flow rate specification based on the temperature of
the ATF in the supply vessel.
Helpful Hints for Maintaining the Temperature at or above 18°C (65°F)
Important
- The temperature of the supply vessel oil must be 18°C (65°F) or greater for J 45096 to operate. It
is recommended to store the J 45096 in an area of the dealership where the room temperature
remains at or above 18°C (65°F) when not in use.
- Do not attempt to increase the fluid temperature in the Transflow(R) machine with an engine oil
dipstick, or any other immersion type heater. The Transflow(R) machine has a check valve in the
supply reservoir. Inserting a heater will damage the check valve and the subsequent repair
expense would be the dealer's responsibility.
- A heater blanket, P/N J-45096-10, is available for the Transflow(R) transmission cooling system
flushing tool. This heater fastens around the Transflow(R) internal supply vessel and runs on 110
volts AC. The heater will warm the ATF in the supply vessel to at least 18°C (65° F) and has a
thermostat to hold a constant temperature.
Store the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096, Transflow(R) machine in a room
where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F).
Keep the ATF level in the reservoir low when the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J
45096, Transflow(R), is not in use. Store several gallons of oil in an area where the temperature is
maintained at or above 18°C (65°F). Fill the reservoir of the J 45096 as needed before using the
machine on
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 8017
each repair.
With the ATF in a tightly sealed container, place the container in a tub of hot water for a period of
time. Then pour the ATF into the reservoir. This method works best with a low fluid level in the
reservoir.
Place the Transflow(R) machine in the direct sunlight with the cabinet door open to expose the
reservoir to the rays of the warm sun.
Flush / Flow Test Procedure
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle and require
the transmission oil pan or transmission side cover to be removed include labor time to flush the
transmission oil cooler system.
Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the
appropriate procedure.
Important The J 45096 can be used to flush the transmission oil cooler system on an Allison
equipped vehicle, but the flow meter should not be utilized. Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission
Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the appropriate flow check procedure.
Machine Displays
After completion of the flush and flow test, the following information is to be recorded on the repair
order. This information is displayed on the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096,
Transflow(R) machine when the dial is in the code position.
- Tested flow rate (displayed in Gallons Per Minute (GPM)
- Temperature (displayed is degrees Fahrenheit)
- Cycle number (a number)
- Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code (i.e. A10DFB2)
Warranty Information
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
Performing a transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test will use between 4.7-7.5 L (5-8 qts)
of DEXRON(R)VI transmission fluid. The amount
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 8018
of transmission fluid (ATF), (DEXRON(R)VI) (fluid) that is to be charged for the flush portion of the
repair should not exceed the allowable charge for 7.5 L (2 gal) of fluid. This expense should be
shown in the Parts Section of the warranty claim document.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card,
entered in the warranty claim labor operation Flush Code additional field (when available) and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
02-07-30-052G > Mar > 11 > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 02-07-30-052G
Date: March 02, 2011
Subject: Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow(R)
Models:
2011 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2010 HUMMER H2 2006-2010
HUMMER H3 with Automatic Transmission/Transaxle including Allison(R) Transmissions
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update the model years. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 02-07-30-052F (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
The J 45096 transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test tool replaces current tool J
35944-A. J 45096 is a self-contained unit utilizing a 12-volt flow meter, shop air supply and
DEXRON(R) VI automatic transmission fluid (ATF). In the flush mode, transmission fluid is cycled
through the transmission oil cooling system. High-pressure air is automatically injected into the fluid
stream adding agitation to the ATF oil to enhance the removal of contaminated ATF oil and debris.
In the flow mode, an electronic flow meter is used to measure the flow capability of the ATF oil
cooling system. A digital display indicates the ATF oil flow rate in gallons per minute (GPM) along
with the amount of ATF oil in the supply vessel, supply vessel ATF oil temperature, machine cycles
and the operating mode. The supply oil vessel has 30 L (32 qt) capacity and the waste oil vessel
has 32 L (34 qt) capacity. The waste oil vessel is constructed of a translucent composite material
that allows the user to easily identify the oil level. The waste oil vessel can accommodate vacuum
evacuation and gravity draining. In the code mode, a random, encrypted code is generated that can
be used for verification of flow test results.
Current essential cooler line adapters are used to connect the J 45096 to the automatic
transmission oil cooler lines that allows J 45096 to adapt to General Motors passenger cars and
light duty trucks, current and past models (except the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo).
The tool may be adapted for use on the Pontiac Vibe, Wave and Chevrolet Aveo by dealership
personnel with a barbed hose connector and rubber hose obtained locally. The
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission has a transmission oil requirement which is slightly different
than DEXRON(R) VI ATF. However, flushing the cooler with DEXRON(R) VI automatic
transmission fluid is an acceptable service procedure. Very little fluid remains in the cooler after the
flush procedure and the residual DEXRON(R) VI ATF in the cooler is compatible with the
Vibe's/Wave's/Aveo's transmission fluid.
Notice
Insufficient oil flow through the ATF oil cooling system will cause premature transmission failure.
The required minimum ATF oil flow rate reading is directly related to the supply oil temperature.
Refer to the flow rate reference chart for the oil flow rate specification based on the temperature of
the ATF in the supply vessel.
Helpful Hints for Maintaining the Temperature at or above 18°C (65°F)
Important
- The temperature of the supply vessel oil must be 18°C (65°F) or greater for J 45096 to operate. It
is recommended to store the J 45096 in an area of the dealership where the room temperature
remains at or above 18°C (65°F) when not in use.
- Do not attempt to increase the fluid temperature in the Transflow(R) machine with an engine oil
dipstick, or any other immersion type heater. The Transflow(R) machine has a check valve in the
supply reservoir. Inserting a heater will damage the check valve and the subsequent repair
expense would be the dealer's responsibility.
- A heater blanket, P/N J-45096-10, is available for the Transflow(R) transmission cooling system
flushing tool. This heater fastens around the Transflow(R) internal supply vessel and runs on 110
volts AC. The heater will warm the ATF in the supply vessel to at least 18°C (65° F) and has a
thermostat to hold a constant temperature.
Store the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096, Transflow(R) machine in a room
where the temperature is maintained at or above 18°C (65°F).
Keep the ATF level in the reservoir low when the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J
45096, Transflow(R), is not in use. Store several gallons of oil in an area where the temperature is
maintained at or above 18°C (65°F). Fill the reservoir of the J 45096 as needed before using the
machine on
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
02-07-30-052G > Mar > 11 > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 8024
each repair.
With the ATF in a tightly sealed container, place the container in a tub of hot water for a period of
time. Then pour the ATF into the reservoir. This method works best with a low fluid level in the
reservoir.
Place the Transflow(R) machine in the direct sunlight with the cabinet door open to expose the
reservoir to the rays of the warm sun.
Flush / Flow Test Procedure
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle and require
the transmission oil pan or transmission side cover to be removed include labor time to flush the
transmission oil cooler system.
Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the
appropriate procedure.
Important The J 45096 can be used to flush the transmission oil cooler system on an Allison
equipped vehicle, but the flow meter should not be utilized. Refer to SI for Automatic Transmission
Oil Cooler Flushing and Flow Test J 45096 for the appropriate flow check procedure.
Machine Displays
After completion of the flush and flow test, the following information is to be recorded on the repair
order. This information is displayed on the Transmission Cooling System Service Tool, J 45096,
Transflow(R) machine when the dial is in the code position.
- Tested flow rate (displayed in Gallons Per Minute (GPM)
- Temperature (displayed is degrees Fahrenheit)
- Cycle number (a number)
- Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code (i.e. A10DFB2)
Warranty Information
Important All labor operations that include removal of the transmission from the vehicle include
labor time to flush the transmission oil cooler system.
Performing a transmission oil cooling system flush and flow test will use between 4.7-7.5 L (5-8 qts)
of DEXRON(R)VI transmission fluid. The amount
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
02-07-30-052G > Mar > 11 > A/T - Fluid Oil Cooler Flush > Page 8025
of transmission fluid (ATF), (DEXRON(R)VI) (fluid) that is to be charged for the flush portion of the
repair should not exceed the allowable charge for 7.5 L (2 gal) of fluid. This expense should be
shown in the Parts Section of the warranty claim document.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
The Seven digit Alpha/Numeric flow code, i.e. A10DFB2, "MUST" be written on the job card,
entered in the warranty claim labor operation Flush Code additional field (when available) and
placed in the comments section of the warranty claim. Any repair that requires the technician to
contact the Product Quality Center (PQC) must also include the seven digit flow code. The agent
will request the seven digit flow code and add the information to the PQC case prior to providing
authorization for the warranty claim.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
08-07-30-035B > Nov > 10 > A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
08-07-30-035B > Nov > 10 > A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination Information > Page 8030
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
03-07-30-027 > Jun > 03 > A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked Questions
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked
Questions
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-027
Date: June, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Most Frequently Asked Questions and Answers for J 45096 TransFlow Transmission Oil
Cooling System Flushing Machine
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle
2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
This bulletin is issued to help answer the most frequently asked questions and concerns about
essential tool J 45096.
Q: Why doesn't the machine work below 18°C (65°F)?
A: The flow characteristics of ATF at temperatures below 18°C (65°F) does not provide accurate
flow test results with the electronics used in the J
45096.
Q: Why didn't the unit come with a tank heater?
A: The vast majority of dealerships do not require a heater to keep the ATF above 18°C (65°F). As
a result, the heater was deleted as a cost-savings
measure. A tank heater, J 45096-10, is currently available from Kent-Moore if your dealership
requires it. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-002A for suggestions on warming the ATF
without using a heater blanket.
Q: Why does the machine fail new oil coolers?
A: Several reasons have been found. The most likely reason is the air pressure at the air hose
connected to the J 45096 is less than 586 kPa (85 psi).
Other reasons include a twisted hose inside the J 45096 at the bulkhead as a result of the nut
turning when the waste or supply hose was installed, the internal pressure regulator was
improperly set at the factory or a problem with the cooler lines on the vehicle. Perform the J 45096
self-test as described on pages 9 and 10 of the Operation Manual. If a problem is still detected,
refer to Troubleshooting on page 19 of the Operation Manual. If a problem still persists, contact
Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: What is the difference between steel and aluminum oil coolers?
A: The aluminum oil cooler tube is slightly thinner in construction than the steel oil cooler tube,
which affects the oil flow rate. The fitting that is
protruding out of the radiator tank easily identifies the aluminum oil cooler. Refer to the Quick
Reference card provided with the J 45096 in order to identify the proper flow rate for the aluminum
oil cooler.
Q: Why can't I use TransFlow for Allison transmission cooling Systems?
A: Validation of TransFlow is currently under development for light duty trucks equipped with the
Allison automatic transmission. TransFlow is based
on the existing MINIMUM flow rate specification through the transmission oil cooling system. The
Allison transmission oil cooling system only has MAXIMUM oil flow rates specified and J 45096
does not have the capability to test the transmission oil cooling system at the maximum oil flow rate
specification.
Q: Why doesn't GM publish a specification for auxiliary transmission oil coolers?
A: The auxiliary oil cooler used with GM vehicles does not contain an internal turbulator plate like
the radiator tank oil cooler does. Therefore, there is
no internal restriction that would affect the flow rate through the oil cooling system so a
specification for auxiliary oil cooler is not required. Keep in mind, kinks and damage to the auxiliary
cooler and lines can affect the flow rate through the system.
Q: Why did GM drop the labor time for transmission repairs?
A: The labor for flushing and flow testing the transmission oil cooling system is included with the
R&R; labor of the "K" labor operations that require
transmission removal. The time required to use the J 45096 to perform the flush and flow test is
much less than that of the J 35944-A. The warranty labor savings allowed GM to provide the J
45096 at no cost to dealerships.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
03-07-30-027 > Jun > 03 > A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked Questions > Page 8035
Q: Why didn't the machine come with the adapters to hook up to the car?
A: The J 45096 was designed to use the previously released essential cooler line adapters for the J
35944-A. All adapters are listed on page 17 of the
Operation Manual and can be ordered from Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: How do I connect the J 45096 to a Catera, Prizm or a Vibe?
A: These vehicles, along with many other models, only require barbed fittings to connect to the
rubber cooler hose. These fittings are commercially
available and already found in many shops.
Q: Why didn't I receive an Operation Manual with the machine?
A: The Operation Manual was packaged in the upper portion of the shipping carton. If the shipping
carton was lifted off the base without opening the
top of the carton, the Operation Manual could have been discarded with the carton. Replacement
Operation Manual packages can be obtained from Kent-Moore Customer Service at
1-800-345-2233.
Q: Why can't I re-use the transmission fluid I use for flushing?
A: The very fine metal and clutch material debris from the transmission failure in the ATF causes
failures with the hall effect speed sensors that are used
to measure the flow rate. To avoid costly repairs, expensive filters, regular maintenance and
problems caused by a partially restricted filter, the filter was not included.
Q: What do I do if I need service on my machine?
A: Call Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233. The J 45096 has a one-year warranty.
Q: Can I flush and flow engine oil coolers?
A: The engine oil cooler flow rates, the appropriate adapters and an acceptable procedure are
currently under development.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
36-71-03A > Jun > 98 > A/T - External Oil Cooler Kits
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - External Oil Cooler Kits
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 36-71-03A
Date: June, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission (AT) External Oil Coolers
Models: 1988-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1994-1998 model years and add two new cooler part
numbers for 1996-1998 4L60-E equipped models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
36-71-03 (Section 7 - Transmission).
GMC/Chevrolet Truck has available to owners a high efficiency automatic transmission oil cooler.
This cooler is also available as RPO KNP for many models in the C/K line. This new air to oil cooler
offers excellent cooling ability.
Because the high efficiency offered by this cooler exceeds many aftermarket coolers, we are
offering this cooler in kit form for dealer installation. This cooler may be installed on both new and
used vehicles that are in applications which create higher transmission operating temperatures.
These applications typically include high frontal areas (either on the truck or trailer), or heavy loads
where vehicles are operated at higher road speeds.
The transmission oil coolers listed have been thoroughly tested and will provide the extra
transmission oil cooling that trucks used in these applications may need. These kits can be
installed in approximately 1.2 hours and include the following components:
- Cooler - Mounting Brackets
- Clamps - Flexible Lines
- Fasteners - Installation Instructions
Important:
The installation of any auxiliary transmission oil cooler which is located ahead of the A/C condenser
and radiator will reduce air flow through these components. A slight increase in engine operating
temperatures, more frequent fan clutch engagement and a small decrease in A/C performance
should be considered normal.
Vehicles equipped with an external cooler and operated in cold climates should use DEXRON(R) III
in their transmission. This fluid offers improved low temperature viscosity and high temperature
oxidation stability.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
77-71-68 > Oct > 97 > A/T - Cooler Flush Adapter Tools
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Cooler Flush Adapter Tools
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-68
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: Cooler Flush Adapter Tools for HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle and 4L60-E
Transmission
Models: 1995-98 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997-98 Chevrolet Malibu 1997-98 Oldsmobile Cutlass
1995-98 Pontiac Sunfire with HYDRA-MATIC 4T40-E Transaxle (RPO MN4) and with 2.2L, 2.4L or
3.1 L Engine (VINs 4, T, M - RPOs LN2, LD9, L82)
1998 Chevrolet Camaro 1998 Oldsmobile Bravada 1998 Pontiac Firebird
1996-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1998 Chevrolet and GMC M/L, S/T Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E Transmission (RPO M30) and with 2.2L, 3.8L, 4.3L, 5.0L or 5.7L Engine
(VINs 4, G, K, W, X, M, R - RPOs LN2, LS1, L36, L35, LF6, L30, L31, L05)
This bulletin contains information regarding new service tools which are now available from
Kent-Moore. These tools will aid in oil cooler flushing and flow checking procedures.
4T40-E (Figure 1)
A new cooler flush adapter tool J 35944-440 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in attaching the
4T40-E cooler lines to the existing Kent-Moore cooler flushing tool J 35944-A.
A new cooler flow adapter tool J 42776 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in capturing return oil
from the radiator during oil flow checking procedures. Disconnect the return cooler line at the
radiator and install the cooler flow adapter tool J 42776 to the radiator to aid in capturing the
transmission oil.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: >
77-71-68 > Oct > 97 > A/T - Cooler Flush Adapter Tools > Page 8044
4L60-E (Figure 2)
A new cooler flush adapter tool J 35944-200 is available from Kent-Moore to aid in attaching the
4L60-E quick connect cooler lines to the existing Kent-Moore cooler flushing tool J 35944-A.
Cooler Flushing
The transmission oil cooler must be flushed whenever a transmission is removed from the vehicle
for service or if fluid contamination is suspected. Use the Kent-Moore tool J 35944-A and solvent J
35944-22 to flush the cooler. Instructions for using the cooler flushing tool and performing fluid flow
check may be found in the On-Vehicle Service Section of the service manual or may be found on a
Corporate Service Bulletin 77-71-59.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > 667102
> Mar > 96 > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick
Connect Fitting
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 65-71-02
Date: March, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Sections 7A14D and 7A17D, Automatic Transmission On-Vehicle Service - Enhanced
Engine and Transmission Oil Cooler Line Quick Connect Fitting Procedures
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E,
4L80-E Transmissions
This bulletin has been created to enhance the support of the removal and installation of oil cooler
lines from and to quick connect fittings on engines and transmissions. The content of this bulletin
replaces any existing cooler line quick connect fitting procedures found in the 1996 S/T and C/K
Truck and M/L and G Van Service Manuals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > 667102
> Mar > 96 > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page 8049
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 1
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > 667102
> Mar > 96 > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page 8050
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 2
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > 667102
> Mar > 96 > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page 8051
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 3
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > 667102
> Mar > 96 > Engine & Transmission - Oil Cooler Quick Connect Fitting > Page 8052
OIL COOLER LINE QUICK CONNECT FITTINGS 4
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > Page
8053
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Water Or Coolant Contamination
Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 08-07-30-035B
Date: November 01, 2010
Subject: Information on Water or Ethylene Glycol in Transmission Fluid
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic Transmission
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to update model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 08-07-30-035A (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Water or ethylene glycol in automatic transmission fluid (ATF) is harmful to internal transmission
components and will have a negative effect on reliability and durability of these parts. Water or
ethylene glycol in ATF will also change the friction of the clutches, frequently resulting in shudder
during engagement or gear changes, especially during torque converter clutch engagement.
Indications of water in the ATF may include:
- ATF blowing out of the transmission vent tube.
- ATF may appear cloudy or, in cases of extreme contamination, have the appearance of a
strawberry milkshake.
- Visible water in the oil pan.
- A milky white substance inside the pan area.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be glued to the valve body face or case.
- Spacer plate gaskets that appear to be swollen or wrinkled in areas where they are not
compressed.
- Rust on internal transmission iron/steel components.
If water in the ATF has been found and the source of the water entry has not been identified, or if a
leaking in-radiator transmission oil cooler is suspected (with no evidence of cross-contamination in
the coolant recovery reservoir), a simple and quick test kit is available that detects the presence of
ethylene glycol in ATF. The "Gly-Tek" test kit, available from the Nelco Company, should be
obtained and the ATF tested to make an accurate decision on the need for radiator replacement.
This can help to prevent customer comebacks if the in-radiator transmission oil cooler is leaking
and reduce repair expenses by avoiding radiator replacement if the cooler is not leaking. These
test kits can be obtained from:
Nelco Company
Test kits can be ordered by phone or through the website listed above. Orders are shipped
standard delivery time but can be shipped on a next day delivery basis for an extra charge. One
test kit will complete 10 individual fluid sample tests. For vehicles repaired under warranty, the cost
of the complete test kit plus shipping charges should be divided by 10 and submitted on the
warranty claim as a net item.
The transmission should be repaired or replaced based on the normal cost comparison procedure.
Important If water or coolant is found in the transmission, the following components MUST be
replaced.
- Replace all of the rubber-type seals.
- Replace all of the composition-faced clutch plates and/or bands.
- Replace all of the nylon parts.
- Replace the torque converter.
- Thoroughly clean and rebuild the transmission, using new gaskets and oil filter.
Important The following steps must be completed when repairing or replacing.
Flush and flow check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number
02-07-30-052F- Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler Flush and Flow Test Essential Tool J 45096
TransFlow.
- Thoroughly inspect the engine cooling system and hoses and clean/repair as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > Page
8054
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > Page
8055
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Oil Cooler Flushing Frequently Asked
Questions
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-027
Date: June, 2003
INFORMATION
Subject: Most Frequently Asked Questions and Answers for J 45096 TransFlow Transmission Oil
Cooling System Flushing Machine
Models: 2004 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks with Automatic
Transmission/Transaxle
2004 and Prior HUMMER H2
This bulletin is issued to help answer the most frequently asked questions and concerns about
essential tool J 45096.
Q: Why doesn't the machine work below 18°C (65°F)?
A: The flow characteristics of ATF at temperatures below 18°C (65°F) does not provide accurate
flow test results with the electronics used in the J
45096.
Q: Why didn't the unit come with a tank heater?
A: The vast majority of dealerships do not require a heater to keep the ATF above 18°C (65°F). As
a result, the heater was deleted as a cost-savings
measure. A tank heater, J 45096-10, is currently available from Kent-Moore if your dealership
requires it. Refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-07-30-002A for suggestions on warming the ATF
without using a heater blanket.
Q: Why does the machine fail new oil coolers?
A: Several reasons have been found. The most likely reason is the air pressure at the air hose
connected to the J 45096 is less than 586 kPa (85 psi).
Other reasons include a twisted hose inside the J 45096 at the bulkhead as a result of the nut
turning when the waste or supply hose was installed, the internal pressure regulator was
improperly set at the factory or a problem with the cooler lines on the vehicle. Perform the J 45096
self-test as described on pages 9 and 10 of the Operation Manual. If a problem is still detected,
refer to Troubleshooting on page 19 of the Operation Manual. If a problem still persists, contact
Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: What is the difference between steel and aluminum oil coolers?
A: The aluminum oil cooler tube is slightly thinner in construction than the steel oil cooler tube,
which affects the oil flow rate. The fitting that is
protruding out of the radiator tank easily identifies the aluminum oil cooler. Refer to the Quick
Reference card provided with the J 45096 in order to identify the proper flow rate for the aluminum
oil cooler.
Q: Why can't I use TransFlow for Allison transmission cooling Systems?
A: Validation of TransFlow is currently under development for light duty trucks equipped with the
Allison automatic transmission. TransFlow is based
on the existing MINIMUM flow rate specification through the transmission oil cooling system. The
Allison transmission oil cooling system only has MAXIMUM oil flow rates specified and J 45096
does not have the capability to test the transmission oil cooling system at the maximum oil flow rate
specification.
Q: Why doesn't GM publish a specification for auxiliary transmission oil coolers?
A: The auxiliary oil cooler used with GM vehicles does not contain an internal turbulator plate like
the radiator tank oil cooler does. Therefore, there is
no internal restriction that would affect the flow rate through the oil cooling system so a
specification for auxiliary oil cooler is not required. Keep in mind, kinks and damage to the auxiliary
cooler and lines can affect the flow rate through the system.
Q: Why did GM drop the labor time for transmission repairs?
A: The labor for flushing and flow testing the transmission oil cooling system is included with the
R&R; labor of the "K" labor operations that require
transmission removal. The time required to use the J 45096 to perform the flush and flow test is
much less than that of the J 35944-A. The warranty labor savings allowed GM to provide the J
45096 at no cost to dealerships.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > Page
8056
Q: Why didn't the machine come with the adapters to hook up to the car?
A: The J 45096 was designed to use the previously released essential cooler line adapters for the J
35944-A. All adapters are listed on page 17 of the
Operation Manual and can be ordered from Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.
Q: How do I connect the J 45096 to a Catera, Prizm or a Vibe?
A: These vehicles, along with many other models, only require barbed fittings to connect to the
rubber cooler hose. These fittings are commercially
available and already found in many shops.
Q: Why didn't I receive an Operation Manual with the machine?
A: The Operation Manual was packaged in the upper portion of the shipping carton. If the shipping
carton was lifted off the base without opening the
top of the carton, the Operation Manual could have been discarded with the carton. Replacement
Operation Manual packages can be obtained from Kent-Moore Customer Service at
1-800-345-2233.
Q: Why can't I re-use the transmission fluid I use for flushing?
A: The very fine metal and clutch material debris from the transmission failure in the ATF causes
failures with the hall effect speed sensors that are used
to measure the flow rate. To avoid costly repairs, expensive filters, regular maintenance and
problems caused by a partially restricted filter, the filter was not included.
Q: What do I do if I need service on my machine?
A: Call Kent-Moore Customer Service at 1-800-345-2233. The J 45096 has a one-year warranty.
Q: Can I flush and flow engine oil coolers?
A: The engine oil cooler flow rates, the appropriate adapters and an acceptable procedure are
currently under development.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Cooler,
A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Technical Service Bulletins for Transmission Cooler: > Page
8057
Transmission Cooler: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - External Oil Cooler Kits
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 36-71-03A
Date: June, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Automatic Transmission (AT) External Oil Coolers
Models: 1988-98 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Models
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1994-1998 model years and add two new cooler part
numbers for 1996-1998 4L60-E equipped models. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number
36-71-03 (Section 7 - Transmission).
GMC/Chevrolet Truck has available to owners a high efficiency automatic transmission oil cooler.
This cooler is also available as RPO KNP for many models in the C/K line. This new air to oil cooler
offers excellent cooling ability.
Because the high efficiency offered by this cooler exceeds many aftermarket coolers, we are
offering this cooler in kit form for dealer installation. This cooler may be installed on both new and
used vehicles that are in applications which create higher transmission operating temperatures.
These applications typically include high frontal areas (either on the truck or trailer), or heavy loads
where vehicles are operated at higher road speeds.
The transmission oil coolers listed have been thoroughly tested and will provide the extra
transmission oil cooling that trucks used in these applications may need. These kits can be
installed in approximately 1.2 hours and include the following components:
- Cooler - Mounting Brackets
- Clamps - Flexible Lines
- Fasteners - Installation Instructions
Important:
The installation of any auxiliary transmission oil cooler which is located ahead of the A/C condenser
and radiator will reduce air flow through these components. A slight increase in engine operating
temperatures, more frequent fan clutch engagement and a small decrease in A/C performance
should be considered normal.
Vehicles equipped with an external cooler and operated in cold climates should use DEXRON(R) III
in their transmission. This fluid offers improved low temperature viscosity and high temperature
oxidation stability.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8064
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8065
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8068
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8069
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8070
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8071
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8072
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8073
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8074
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8088
dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8089
^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8090
Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8091
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8092
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8093
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8094
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8095
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8096
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8097
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8098
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8099
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8100
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8101
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8102
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8103
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8104
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8105
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8106
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8107
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Position
Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page 8108
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Pressure
Test Port, A/T > Component Information > Specifications
Line Pressure Specifications
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Pressure
Test Port, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60/4L60E Transmissions
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Pressure
Test Port, A/T > Component Information > Locations > 4L60/4L60E Transmissions > Page 8114
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Transmission Speed
Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E > Page 8119
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-038D > Sep > 06 > A/T - Poor
Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757
Valve Body: Customer Interest A/T - Poor Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-038D
Date: September 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0757 Set, Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated,
Poor Performance of Transmission, Transmission Slipping (Clean Transmission Valve Body and
Case Oil Passages of Debris)
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E/4L65-E/4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30/M32/M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007 model year and the 4L70-E transmission. Also,
information has been added to Condition, Cause and Correction.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-038C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
An illuminated MIL where DTC P0757 is found as a history code in the PCM or TCM.
No 3rd and 4th gear.
The transmission does not shift correctly.
The transmission feels like it shifts to Neutral or a loss of drive occurs.
The vehicle free wheels above 48 km/h (30 mph). High RPM needed to overcome the free
wheeling.
Cause
This condition may be caused by any of the following:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-038D > Sep > 06 > A/T - Poor
Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757 > Page 8128
Chips or debris plugging the bleed orifice of the 2-3 shift solenoid (367). This will cause the
transmission to stay in 2nd gear when 3rd gear is commanded and return to 1st gear when 4th
gear is commanded.
A 2-3 shift valve (368) or 2-3 shuttle valve (369) that is stuck, restricted and/or hung-up in its bore.
This condition may also be an indication of a damaged 2-4 band or 3-4 clutches. This clutch
damage may generate debris causing the 2-3 shift valve line-up to stick in the valve body bore and
set DTC P0757.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the transmission fluid for signs of overheat or a burnt odor. If either is
noted, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as needed.
Inspect the inside of the oil pan for signs of clutch friction material. A small amount of friction
material in the bottom of the pan is normal. If a large amount of clutch material is noted in the fluid
or bottom pan, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as
needed.
Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift valve (368), the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) and the valve bore of
debris/metal chips.
Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift solenoid (367B) opening of debris/metal chips. While inspecting the
2-3 shift solenoid (367B), look for a screen over the solenoid opening. If the solenoid DOES NOT
have a screen, replace the solenoid. All current GMSPO stock shift solenoids have a screen over
the solenoid opening.
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve
fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid as necessary. It is also important to flush and flow
check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to SI "Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler
Flushing and Flow Test" for the procedure.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for additional diagnostic information and service
procedures.
Warranty Information
For repairs performed under warranty, use the applicable published labor code and information.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E
Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Valve Body: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E
Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8133
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E
Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8134
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-036H >
Jan > 09 > A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-038D >
Sep > 06 > A/T - Poor Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Poor Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-038D
Date: September 12, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) P0757 Set, Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) Illuminated,
Poor Performance of Transmission, Transmission Slipping (Clean Transmission Valve Body and
Case Oil Passages of Debris)
Models: 2007 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2003-2007 HUMMER H2
2006-2007 HUMMER H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E/4L65-E/4L70-E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30/M32/M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2007 model year and the 4L70-E transmission. Also,
information has been added to Condition, Cause and Correction.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-038C (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on any of the following conditions:
An illuminated MIL where DTC P0757 is found as a history code in the PCM or TCM.
No 3rd and 4th gear.
The transmission does not shift correctly.
The transmission feels like it shifts to Neutral or a loss of drive occurs.
The vehicle free wheels above 48 km/h (30 mph). High RPM needed to overcome the free
wheeling.
Cause
This condition may be caused by any of the following:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-038D >
Sep > 06 > A/T - Poor Performance/MIL ON/DTC P0757 > Page 8144
Chips or debris plugging the bleed orifice of the 2-3 shift solenoid (367). This will cause the
transmission to stay in 2nd gear when 3rd gear is commanded and return to 1st gear when 4th
gear is commanded.
A 2-3 shift valve (368) or 2-3 shuttle valve (369) that is stuck, restricted and/or hung-up in its bore.
This condition may also be an indication of a damaged 2-4 band or 3-4 clutches. This clutch
damage may generate debris causing the 2-3 shift valve line-up to stick in the valve body bore and
set DTC P0757.
Correction
Inspect the condition of the transmission fluid for signs of overheat or a burnt odor. If either is
noted, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as needed.
Inspect the inside of the oil pan for signs of clutch friction material. A small amount of friction
material in the bottom of the pan is normal. If a large amount of clutch material is noted in the fluid
or bottom pan, the transmission should be disassembled for further investigation and repaired as
needed.
Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift valve (368), the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) and the valve bore of
debris/metal chips.
Inspect and clean the 2-3 shift solenoid (367B) opening of debris/metal chips. While inspecting the
2-3 shift solenoid (367B), look for a screen over the solenoid opening. If the solenoid DOES NOT
have a screen, replace the solenoid. All current GMSPO stock shift solenoids have a screen over
the solenoid opening.
If clutch debris is found, it is also very important to inspect the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve
fluid screens. Clean or replace the PC solenoid as necessary. It is also important to flush and flow
check the transmission oil cooler using J 45096. Refer to SI "Automatic Transmission Oil Cooler
Flushing and Flow Test" for the procedure.
Refer to the appropriate Service Manual for additional diagnostic information and service
procedures.
Warranty Information
For repairs performed under warranty, use the applicable published labor code and information.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8149
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8150
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Valve Body: > 01-07-30-036H > Jan >
09 > A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
Valve Body: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T Control - DTC P0756 Diagnostic Tips
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-036H
Date: January 29, 2009
Subject: Diagnostic Tips for Automatic Transmission DTC P0756, Second, Third, Fourth Gear Start
Models: 2009 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks 2009 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7X
with 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E Automatic Transmission (RPOs M30, M32 or M70)
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add the 2009 model year and add details regarding spacer plates.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-036G (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle).
Some dealership technicians may have difficulty diagnosing DTC P0756, 2-3 Shift Valve
Performance on 4L60-E, 4L65-E or 4L70E automatic transmissions. As detailed in the Service
Manual, when the PCM detects a 4-3-3-4 shift pattern, DTC P0756 will set. Some customers may
also describe a condition of a second, third or fourth gear start that may have the same causes but
has not set this DTC yet. Below are some tips when diagnosing this DTC:
^ This is a performance code. This means that a mechanical malfunction exists.
^ This code is not set by electrical issues such as a damaged wiring harness or poor electrical
connections. Electrical problems would cause a DTC P0758, P0787 or P0788 to set.
^ The most likely cause is chips/debris plugging the filtered AFL oil at orifice # 29 on the top of the
spacer plate (48). This is a very small hole and is easily plugged by a small amount of debris. It is
important to remove the spacer plate and inspect orifice # 29 and the immediate area for the
presence of chips/debris. Also, the transmission case passage directly above this orifice and the
valve body passage directly below should be inspected and cleaned of any chips/debris. For 2003
and newer vehicles the spacer plate should be replaced. The service replacement spacer plate is a
bonded style with gaskets and solenoid filter screens bonded to the spacer plate. These screens
can help to prevent plugging of orifice # 29 caused by small debris or chips.
^ This code could be set if the 2-3 shift valve (368) were stuck or hung-up in its bore. Inspect the
2-3 shift valve (368) and the 2-3 shuttle valve (369) for free movement or damage and clean the
valves, the bore and the valve body passages.
^ This code could be set by a 2-3 shift solenoid (367b) if it were cracked, broken or leaking. Refer
to Shift Solenoid Leak Test in the appropriate Service Manual for the leak test procedure. Based on
parts return findings, a damaged or leaking shift solenoid is the least likely cause of this condition.
Simply replacing a shift solenoid will not correct this condition unless the solenoid has been found
to be cracked, broken or leaking.
It is important to also refer to the appropriate Service Manual or Service Information (SI) for further
possible causes of this condition.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8158
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Checkball Locations
Valve Body: Locations Checkball Locations
Case Checkballs and Filters Locations
Case Checkball
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Checkball Locations > Page 8161
Control Valve Body Checkball Locations
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Checkball Locations > Page 8162
Valve Body: Locations Shift Solenoids
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Locations > Checkball Locations > Page 8163
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service
Valve Body: Service and Repair In-Vehicle Service
Control Valve Assembly
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Disconnect TV cable at throttle lever, then raise and support
vehicle. 3. Drain transmission fluid, then remove transmission oil pan, filter and gasket.
Fig.12 Auxiliary Valve Body Replacement
4. Remove two bolts that attach auxiliary accumulator valve tube to control valve assembly and
accumulator valve body assembly, Fig. 12. 5. Remove two tube clamps, gently pry tube loose from
oil pump assembly, then the auxiliary accumulator valve body assembly. 6. Disconnect electrical
connectors at valve body. 7. Remove detent spring and roller assembly from valve body and
remove valve body to case bolts. 8. Remove valve body assembly while disconnecting manual
control valve link from range selector inner lever and removing throttle lever bracket
from TV link.
9. Reverse procedure to install.
Auxiliary Valve Body
1. Raise and support vehicle, then drain transmission fluid. 2. Remove transmission oil pan and
filter.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8166
Fig.12 Auxiliary Valve Body Replacement
3. Remove two bolts that attach auxiliary accumulator valve tube to control valve assembly and
accumulator valve body assembly, Fig. 12. 4. Remove two tube clamps, gently pry tube loose from
oil pump assembly and auxiliary accumulator valve body assembly. 5. Remove three auxiliary
accumulator valve body to transmission case attaching bolts. 6. Remove auxiliary valve body and
check ball. 7. Reverse procedure to install.
4L80-E Automatic Transmission
REMOVAL
1. Drain and remove oil pan, then filter and gasket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8167
Fig.9 Transmission Wiring And Electrical Connectors.
2. Disconnect electrical connectors at valve body, Fig. 9.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8168
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
3. Remove bolts from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and roller assembly, Fig. 10.
Ensure five O-rings are attached to pressure
manifold assembly.
4. Remove pressure manifold assembly. 5. Remove wiring clips, fluid level indicator stop, lube
pipe, lube pipe retainer and clamps. 6. Remove control valve assembly including accumulator
housing assembly, valve body gaskets, spacer plate and accumulator gasket. 7. Remove eight
check balls from case passages. 8. Remove two speed sensors, bracket assemblies and PWM
solenoid screen.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8169
INSTALLATION
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
1. Install eight check balls as shown in Fig. 11 2. Install gasket spacer plate to case. 3. Install
complete valve body assembly onto case using guide pin set tool No. J-25025-B or equivalent. 4.
Install pressure manifold onto valve body assembly with spring and roller assembly in place. 5.
Install wiring clip, then the fluid indicator stop. 6. Install control valve body assembly retaining bolts.
7. Connect wiring harness to connectors. Install large end into case first. 8. Install long end of lube
pipe into case. 9. Install lube pipe clip with short bolt, tighten to specification.
10. Tighten valve body bolts to specification. 11. Install filter, then the pan and refill fluid.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8170
Valve Body: Service and Repair Unit Repair
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8171
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8172
Manual Valve Link
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8173
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8174
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8175
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8176
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8177
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8178
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8179
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8180
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8181
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8182
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8183
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8184
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8185
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8186
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8187
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8188
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8189
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8190
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8191
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8192
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8193
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8194
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8195
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8196
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8197
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8198
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8199
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8200
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8201
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8202
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Valve Body, A/T >
Component Information > Service and Repair > In-Vehicle Service > Page 8203
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift
Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Wiring Harness: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift
Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8212
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Wiring Harness: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8218
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 56-32-02B > Sep >
97 > Steering Column - Intermittent Click Noise/Snap
Steering Column Bearing: All Technical Service Bulletins Steering Column - Intermittent Click
Noise/Snap
File In Section: 3 - Steering/Suspension
Bulletin No.: 56-32-02B
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Intermittent Steering Column Snap or Click Noise when Turning (Install New Upper
Bearing Spring)
Models: 1994-96 Buick Century, LaSabre, Park Avenue, Regal, Roadmaster 1995-96 Buick Riviera
1994-96 Cadillac Concours, DeVille, Eldorado, Fleetwood, Seville 1994-96 Chevrolet Camaro,
Caprice, Corvette, Lumina, Lumina APV 1995-96 Chevrolet Monte Carlo 1994-96 Oldsmobile
Cutlass Ciera, Cutlass Supreme, Eighty Eight, Ninety Eight, Silhouette 1995-96 Oldsmobile Aurora
1994-96 Pontiac Bonneville, Firebird, Grand Prix, Trans Sport with Tilt Steering Columns
1995-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Trucks 1994-96 Chevrolet and GMC M/L, G Vans with Tilt
Steering Columns
This bulletin is being revised to correct the truck models and part number descriptions.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 56-32-02A, dated April, 1996 (Section 3 Steering/Suspension).
Condition
Some owners may comment on an intermittent steering column snap or click noise while turning.
The snapping or clicking may also be felt in the steering wheel.
Cause
The upper bearing race seat may, under some turning conditions, move in an axial direction along
the upper steering shaft. The noise is a result of the inner race seat hanging up on the shaft and
then suddenly releasing causing a snapping or clicking noise.
Correction
A new upper bearing spring with increased stiffness has been developed and should- be installed
in the steering column. The new spring will increase the preload between the upper bearing inner
race seat and the upper steering shaft. To accommodate the new spring with increased stiffness,
the cancel cam will also need to be replaced. The new spring and cancel cam, along with a retainer
ring and an upper bearing inner race seat are included in the parts kit listed below.
Service Procedure
Follow the instructions given in Section 3F5 of the appropriate Service Manual and those contained
in kit. Be sure to use all parts supplied in the service kit.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
26059701 1994-96 A/B/C/D/E/F/H/K/U/W
26059701 1994-95 M/L/G Vans
26059702 1995-96 Buick "G"
26059703 1995-96 Oldsmobile "G"
26059704 1995-96 C/K, S/T Truck
26059704 1996 MIL/G Vans (both styles of G Van)
26059705 1994-96 "Y"
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 56-32-02B > Sep >
97 > Steering Column - Intermittent Click Noise/Snap > Page 8224
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Automatic Transmission/Transaxle > Wiring Harness, A/T >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wiring Harness: > 56-32-02B > Sep >
97 > Steering Column - Intermittent Click Noise/Snap > Page 8230
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Master
Cylinder > Component Information > Service and Repair
Clutch Master Cylinder: Service and Repair
Fig. 2 Clutch Master Cylinder Removal.
Clutch Slave Cylinder - Bleed Screw and Quick Connect Coupling
NOTE: If servicing a vehicle that requires master cylinder, reservoir or tubing replacement a
complete pre-filled, pre-bled unit must be installed.
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED (or equivalent)
- J-36221, Quick connect coupling disengagement tool.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Push rod from clutch pedal. 2. Clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder quick connect
coupling using one of the following methods:
- Use two small flat head screw drivers at 180° from each other to depress the white plastic sleeve
on the quick connect coupling to separate the clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder.
- Use tool J-36221 to depress the white plastic sleeve on the quick connect coupling to separate
the clutch line from the concentric slave cylinder.
3. Tubes and clips from wiring harness bracket and sheet metal. 4. Master cylinder from cowl
panel, rotating 45° clockwise.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Master cylinder to cowl panel by holding master cylinder at 45° angle and rotating
counterclockwise. Use care not to over rotate master cylinder or
damage may occur.
2. Clutch line to the concentric slave cylinder quick connect coupling. 3. Tubes and clips to wiring
harness bracket and sheet metal. 4. Push rod to the clutch pedal. 5. Fill reservoir with GM Delco
Supreme No. II(R) Brake Fluid or equivalent, (if required).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Hydraulic System > Clutch Slave
Cylinder > Component Information > Service and Repair
Clutch Slave Cylinder: Service and Repair
Concentric Slave Cylinder
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Transmission, refer to Manual Transmission/Transaxle / Service and Repair. 2. Bolts securing
the concentric slave cylinder to the clutch housing shaft. 3. Slave cylinder from the transmission
input shaft. 4. Bearing from slave cylinder.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Bearing to slave cylinder. 2. Slave cylinder to the transmission input shaft. Ensure that the bleed
screw and coupling are positioned with the transmission ports. 3. Two bolts securing the concentric
slave cylinder to the clutch housing shaft and tighten to 8 Nm (71 lb in). 4. Transmission.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Linkage > Component Information >
Description and Operation
Clutch Linkage: Description and Operation
The clutch control system consists of a clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and a connecting
hose. The clutch master cylinder is operated directly by the clutch pedal. When the clutch pedal is
pressed down, hydraulic fluid under pressure from the clutch master cylinder flows into the
actuator. The actuator piston engages the clutch fork which moves the release bearing into contact
with the diaphragm spring fingers to disengage the clutch.
The hydraulic clutch system locates the clutch pedal height and provides automatic clutch
adjustment. No adjustment of clutch linkage or pedal position is required.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Linkage > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 8242
Clutch Linkage: Testing and Inspection
1. Inspect slave cylinder and clutch pedal travel. 2. Clutch pedal travel should be approximately 8.3
inches, and slave cylinder rod should have a minimum of 1 inch travel, measured at the clutch
fork.
3. Inspect pedal bushings for binding and excessive wear, and the fork for damage, wear and
proper lubrication. Replace components that are
damaged or worn.
4. With engine running at normal operating temperature, hold clutch pedal approximately 1/2 from
floor mat, wait approximately nine seconds and
move shift lever between First and Reverse several times.
5. If shift is not smooth, bleed system and recheck operation. 6. If shift is still not smooth, inspect
clutch components and repair or replace as needed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Linkage > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 8243
Clutch Linkage: Adjustments
These vehicles are equipped with a self-adjusting hydraulic clutch unit. There is no provision for
adjustment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Linkage > Component Information >
Description and Operation > Page 8244
Clutch Linkage: Service and Repair
1. Fill master cylinder, as needed with new brake fluid conforming to DOT 3 specification. 2. Raise
and support vehicle and remove slave cylinder attaching bolts. 3. Hold slave cylinder at
approximately 45 degrees angle with bleed valve at highest point. 4. Fully depress clutch pedal,
then open bleed valve. 5. Close bleed valve, then release clutch pedal. Do not release clutch pedal
with bleed valve open as air will be drawn into hydraulic system. 6. Repeat Steps 4 and 5 until all
air is evacuated from system. Check and refill master cylinder at regular intervals during procedure
to prevent air
from being drawn into system through master cylinder.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Clutch, M/T > Clutch Pedal Assembly > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Clutch Pedal Assembly: Service and Repair
Push Rod
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Push rod from the clutch pedal. 2. Clutch pedal by pushing in the two spring loaded bushings.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Depress both spring loaded bushings and position into support. Bushings will spring (pop) out
and hold pedal in place. 2. Push rod from the clutch pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Continuously Variable Transmission/Transaxle, CVT > Shift
Interlock, CVT > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Shift Interlock: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Lock Control Feature Function
Bulletin No.: 03-07-30-043A
Date: May 25, 2006
INFORMATION
Subject: Information Regarding Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control Function
Models: 2007 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2007 and Prior HUMMER
H2, H3 2005-2007 Saab 9-7X
with Automatic Transmission
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 03-07-30-043 (Section 07 - Transmission/Transaxle). This bulletin is being issued to better
explain how the Automatic Transmission Shift Lock Control (formerly known as Brake Transmission
Shift Interlock (BTSI)) feature is intended to operate. Revised wording regarding the shift lock
control system began appearing in the Owner Manuals beginning with the 2004 model year.
The shift lock control feature was intended to prevent drivers from shifting out of Park with the
vehicle running without the brakes applied. However, if the ignition switch is in the Accessory
(ACC) position, it may be possible on some vehicles to move the shift lever out of Park WITHOUT
first activating the brake.
The shift lock control system is ONLY active when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position.
This means that when the ignition switch is in the RUN or ON position, the shift lever cannot be
moved out of the Park position without activating the brake.
Some owners may feel that the shift lock control system prevents an unattended child from moving
the vehicle. Please stress to owners, as stated in the Owner Manual, that children should NEVER
be left unattended in a vehicle, even if the ignition key has been removed from the vehicle.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Differential Carrier: Adjustments Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Fig. 3 Spreading differential carrier
Fig. 19 Gear tooth contact inspection
9-3/4 INCH RING GEAR AXLE
1. Place differential assembly with pinion into housing.
2. Install bearing caps in proper position and tighten just enough to retain in place.
3. Install dial indicator on carrier with indicator button contacting back of ring gear.
4. Position two screwdrivers between bearing cup and housing on ring gear side of case and pry
ring gear into mesh with pinion gear as far as possible.
5. Set dial indicator to ``0'' with force still applied to gears.
6. Reposition screwdrivers on opposite side of ring gear, then pry ring gear as far as possible and
note indicator reading. Repeat sequence several times until same reading is obtained. This reading
indicates amount of shims necessary between differential case and differential bearing on ring gear
side.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8258
7. Remove differential bearing from ring gear side, then install proper amount of shims and
reassemble bearing.
8. Remove differential bearing from opposite side of ring gear. Subtract size of shim pack installed
on ring gear side of case from reading obtained in step 11 of ``Differential Overhaul'' procedure.
Add an additional .015 inch to this figure to compensate for preload and backlash.
9. Assemble proper amount of shims as indicated in step 8, then install side bearing.
10. Spread differential carrier,
Fig. 3, then install differential bearing outer races and position differential case into carrier.
11. Install differential bearing caps and tighten cap screws finger tight.
12. Rotate differential assembly and tap case with a soft-faced hammer to seat case in carrier.
13. Remove spreader tool and torque cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs.
14. Install dial indicator and check ring gear backlash at four equidistant points on the ring gear.
Backlash must measure .004-.009 inch and must not vary more than .002 inch between checking
points. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust differential bearing shim pack as necessary.
15. Ensure ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coast face of each tooth
with suitable marking compound.
16. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear one complete revolution in
each direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot
be obtained unless gears are ``loaded'' when rotated.
17. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to Fig. 6, and correct assembly adjustments as
needed.
18. Install housing covers, using a new gasket, and torque attaching bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
19. Install rear universal joint, on rear drive axles, then the axle shafts.
20. Fill axle with specified lubricant.
10-1/2 INCH RING GEAR AXLE
1. Install differential case, with side bearings and cups in position, into carrier.
2. Place the smallest of original shims between bearing cup and carrier on ring gear side of case.
This shim will act as a ``gauging'' shim.
3. Install bearing caps in proper position and tighten just enough to retain in place.
4. Install a dial indicator on ring gear side of carrier with indicator button contacting back of ring
gear.
5. Position two screwdrivers between bearing cup and housing on side opposite ring gear.
6. Apply force to screwdrivers to move differential case as far as possible toward the indicator.
7. Set dial indicator to ``0'' with force still applied to screwdrivers.
8. Reposition screwdrivers on ring gear side of case, then force ring gear into mesh with drive
pinion and note dial indicator reading. Repeat sequence several times until same reading is
obtained. Add this reading to ``gauging'' shim thickness to determine shim required on ring gear
side of case.
9. Remove ``gauging'' shim and install correct thickness shim between bearing cup and carrier on
ring gear side of case.
10. To determine correct dimension for remaining shim, subtract size of shim already installed from
reading obtained in step 10 of ``Differential Overhaul'' procedure. Add an additional .006 inch to
this figure to compensate for preload and backlash.
11. Spread differential carrier, Fig. 3, then install shim between bearing cup and carrier.
12. Remove spreader tool and dial indicator, then install bearing caps and torque cap bolts to 85 ft.
lbs.
13. Install dial indicator and check ring gear backlash at four equidistant points on the ring gear.
Backlash must measure .004-.009 inch and must not vary more than .002 inch between checking
points. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust differential bearing shim pack as necessary.
If
backlash is less than specifications, decrease shim on ring gear side and increase shim on
opposite side an equal amount. If backlash exceeds specifications, increase shim on ring gear side
and decrease shim on opposite side an equal amount.
14. Ensure ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coast face of each tooth
with suitable marking compound.
15. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear one complete revolution in
each direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot
be obtained unless gears are ``loaded'' when rotated.
16. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to Fig. 6, and correct assembly adjustments as
needed.
17. Install housing cover, using a new gasket, and torque attaching bolts to 35 ft. lbs.
18. Install rear universal joint, then the axle shafts.
19. Fill axle with specified lubricant.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8259
Differential Carrier: Adjustments Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Final Assembly & Adjustment
DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION
1. Using micrometer or vernier gauge, measure and record thickness of original shim pack.
2. Check P.C. number on original pinion. If number is positive, subtract it from original shim pack
thickness. If number is negative, add it to original shim pack thickness. Record resulting value.
3. Check P.C. number on new pinion. If number is positive, add it to value obtained in step 2. If
number is negative, subtract it from value obtained in step 2.
4. Figure obtained in step 3 indicates thickness of new shim pack to be used.
5. Position correct shim pack between pinion cage and carrier. Use a minimum of 3 shims per
pack. If pack is made up from various thicknesses
of shims, place thinnest shims on either side of pack.
6. Install pinion and cage assembly with shims into carrier and tap into position with soft mallet.
7. Install pinion cage cap screws, torquing to 35 ft. lbs.
DIFFERENTIAL CASE INSTALLATION
1. Temporarily install bearing cups, threaded adjusting rings if used, and bearing caps, torquing
cap screws to 115-140 ft. lbs.
2. If bearing cups are not of a hand push fit in bores, bores must be reworked with a scraper or
emery cloth until a hand push fit is obtained. Use a blued bearing cup as a gauge and check the fits
as work progresses. When cups fit properly, remove bearing caps.
3. After checking related parts, coat differential bearing cones and caps with rear axle lubricant.
4. Place cups over assembled bearing cones and position differential assembly in carrier.
5. Insert bearing adjusting nuts and turn hand-tight against bearing cups.
6. Install bearing caps in correct location as marked and tap lightly in position. If bearing caps
cannot be properly seated bearing adjusters may
be cross-threaded. Remove bearing caps and reposition adjusting nuts as needed. Do not force
bearing caps into position as carrier, caps and adjusting nuts will be damaged.
7. Install bearing cap bolts or nuts and washers, if used, then torque fasteners to 115-140 ft. lbs.
Fig. 8 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8260
Fig. 9 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Adjustment
SIDE BEARING PRELOAD & BACKLASH ADJUSTMENT
1. Using dial indicator at back face of ring gear, Fig. 7, loosen bearing adjusting nut on side
opposite gear only enough to notice endplay on dial
indicator.
2. Tighten same adjusting nut only enough to obtain zero endplay.
3. Check gear for runout. If runout exceeds .008 inch, remove differential and check for cause.
4. Tighten adjusting nuts one notch each from zero endplay to preload differential bearings.
5. Mount dial indicator with plunger contact bearing against ring gear tooth,
Fig. 8.
6. Hold pinion and rock ring gear, reading backlash from dial indicator.
7. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust as follows.
If ring gear and pinion are reused, lash should be adjusted to value measured prior
to disassembly.
a. If backlash is greater than specified, loosen nut in ring gear tooth side and tighten opposite nut
an equal amount. b. If backlash is less than specified, loosen nut on back side of ring gear and
tighten nut on gear face side an equal amount.
Adjusting nuts
must be rotated equally, in opposite directions, in order to maintain proper side bearing preload.
8. Install adjuster locks to secure adjustment.
Fig. 10 Gear Tooth Contact Inspection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8261
GEAR TOOTH CONTACT INSPECTION
1. Ensure that ring gear is clean and free from oil, then coat coast and drive face of each ring gear
tooth with suitable marking compound.
2. Brake ring gear to ``load'' gears, then turn pinion in order to rotate ring gear one full revolution in
each direction.
Satisfactory contact pattern
cannot be obtained unless gears are ``loaded.'' Excessive rotation of gears is not recommended.
3. Inspect tooth contact pattern referring to Fig. 9, and correct assembly adjustments, as needed to
obtain correct pattern.
4. Clean marking compound from gears.
THRUST SCREW INSTALLATION & ADJUSTMENT
1. Remove carrier from stand and position with back face of hypoid or spiral bevel gear upward.
2. Remove thrust screw and locknut.
3. Install thrust screw and locknut and tighten thrust screw enough to locate thrust block firmly
against back face of hypoid gear.
4. Loosen thrust screw 1/4 turn and lock securely with nut.
5. Check to ensure minimum clearance of .10 inch during full rotation of bevel gear.
DIFFERENTIAL CARRIER, INSTALLATION
1. Ensure that housing is clean and free from dirt and foreign material.
2. Inspect housing for damage and distortion, and repair or replace as needed. Remove burrs from
machined surfaces using suitable stone or file.
3. Install new gasket over housing studs. If RTV sealer is used, ensure that both mating surfaces
are clean and free from oil, then apply a
continuous bead of sealer, 1/8 inch wide, completely around one mating surface, circling all bolt
holes or studs.
4. Raise carrier assembly with suitable jack, roll assembly onto studs, then install 4 evenly spaced
flat washers and nuts to hold assembly.
5. Install nuts and lock washers on any studs shrouded by housing webs, then evenly tighten 4
evenly spaced nuts to draw carrier into housing. Do
not drive carrier into housing by tapping flange as flange will be distorted.
6. Install lock washers under all retaining nuts, then evenly tighten all nuts.
7. Install axle shafts and connect driveshaft to companion flange.
8. Fill housing with specified lubricant.
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
Fig. 8 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8262
Fig. 9 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Adjustment
1. Using dial indicator at back face of ring gear, Fig. 8, loosen bearing adjusting nut on side
opposite gear only enough to notice endplay on dial
indicator.
2. Tighten same adjusting nut only enough to obtain zero endplay.
3. Check gear for runout. If runout exceeds .008 inch, remove differential and check for cause.
4. Tighten adjusting nuts one notch each from zero endplay to preload differential bearings.
5. Mount dial indicator with plunger contact bearing against ring gear tooth, Fig. 9.
6. Hold pinion and rock ring gear, reading backlash from dial indicator.
7. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust as follows.
If ring gear and pinion are reused, lash should be adjusted to value measured prior
to disassembly. a.
If backlash is greater than specified, loosen nut in ring gear tooth side and tighten opposite nut an
equal amount.
b. If backlash is less than specified, loosen nut on back side of ring gear and tighten nut on gear
face side an equal amount. Adjusting nuts
must be rotated equally, in opposite directions, in order to maintain proper side bearing preload.
8. Install adjuster locks to secure adjustment.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8263
Differential Carrier: Adjustments Corporate and Eaton
Final Assembly and Adjustment
Fig. 19 Gear tooth contact inspection
1. Ensure that pinion depth and bearing preload are properly adjusted.
2. Install differential case assembly and selected side bearing shims. Refer to
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash. See: 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 Inch Ring
Gear/Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
3. Install bearing caps in proper position and torque cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate assembly to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
5. Mount dial indicator on housing with plunger bearing against tooth on ring gear, Fig. 18. Use
small contact button on indicator plunger so that
contact can be made at heel end of tooth and position dial indicator with plunger in line with gear
rotation and perpendicular to gear tooth.
6. Hold pinion stationary and rock ring gear back and forth while reading backlash on indicator.
7. Check backlash at 3 evenly spaced positions around ring gear and record readings. If backlash
varies by more than .002 inch at any position,
check ring gear installation and runout, and correct as needed.
8. If backlash is not within specifications, remove differential case assembly and bearing shims
keeping shims in order. If ring gear and pinion are
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Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8264
being reused, backlash should be adjusted as close as possible to value measured prior to
disassembly.
9. Backlash is adjusted by increasing thickness of one shim while decreasing thickness of opposite
side shim by the same amount in order to maintain proper side bearing preload. Select shims to
adjust backlash as follows:
a. If backlash is excessive, decrease thickness of shim on gear tooth side and increase thickness
of shim on opposite side by the same amount. b. If backlash is less than specified, increase
thickness of shim on gear tooth side while decreasing thickness of opposite shim by the same
amount. On models with 7-1/2 & 7-5/8 inch ring gear, each .002 inch change in shim thickness
alters backlash by .001 inch. On models
with 8-1/2 and 8-5/8 inch ring gear, each .003 inch change in shim thickness alters backlash by
.002 inch.
10. Reinstall differential assembly, shims and bearing caps, torque bearing cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.,
then recheck backlash and adjust as needed.
11. If side bearing preload was set to zero during side bearing preload adjustment, proceed as
follows:
a. Remove both bearing caps and shim packs, keeping shim packs in respective left or right
positions. b. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from left side, insert shim between left
bearing race and spacer, then install left bearing cap
with bolts hand tight.
c. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from right side and install shim between right
bearing race and spacer using suitable driver. d. Install right bearing cap and torque all cap bolts to
55 ft. lbs.
12. Ensure that ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat both drive and coast side of
each tooth with suitable marking compound.
13. Apply braking force to ``load'' ring gear, then rotate driveshaft yoke with wrench so that ring
gear rotates one full revolution in each direction.
Test
made without ``loading'' gears will not yield satisfactory pattern, and excessive rotating of gears is
not recommended.
14. Compare gear tooth pattern with
Fig. 19, and correct assembly adjustments as needed.
15. When proper gear tooth contact pattern has been obtained, clean marking compound from
gears, install cover and new gasket and fill housing with specified lubricant.
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
On these models, side bearing preload should be set before pinion is installed. If pinion is installed,
remove ring gear.
1. Ensure bearing bores in housing and bearing caps are clean and free from burrs. 2. Measure
production shims or service spacer and shim packs removed during disassembling to determine
approximate thickness of shims needed
for installation. Do not reuse cast iron production shims as they may break during installation. If
service spacers and shims were
previously installed, they can be reused.
Fig. 12 Side Bearing Shim Selection Chart. Models W/7 1/2 & 7 5/8 Inch Ring Gear.
3. In addition to 0.170 inch service spacers for each side, refer to chart, Fig. 12, and select service
shim thickness required based on measurements
made in step 2.
4. Place outer races over side bearings, mount differential assembly in housing and insert service
spacer between each bearing race and housing with
chamfered edge against housing.
5. Install left bearing cap to retain case assembly and tighten bolts hand tight so that case can be
moved while checking adjustments. A bearing cap
bolt can be installed in lower right bearing cap hole to prevent case from dropping while performing
shim adjustments.
6. Select one or two shims totaling thickness calculated in step 3 and insert shims between right
bearing cap and service spacer.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8265
Fig. 13 Side Bearing Clearance Inspection.
7. Insert progressively larger feeler gauges between shim and service spacer until noticeable
increase in drag can be felt, pushing gauge down until it
contacts housing bore to obtain proper reading,
Fig. 13. Rotate case while inserting gauges to ensure even readings.
8. The gauge used just before additional drag is felt is correct thickness to obtain zero preload. By
starting with a thin gauge a sense of feel can be
obtained for the original light drag caused by the weight of the case, allowing the drag caused by
the beginning of preload to be recognized.
It will
be necessary to work case in and out and to the left in order to insert feeler gauges. Insert feeler
gauges as shown in Fig. 13, to ensure accurate measurement.
9. When the proper gauge thickness has been determined to obtain zero preload, remove bearing
cap, case assembly service spacers and shim pack.
10. Select two service shims of approximate equal thickness whose total thickness is equal to the
thickness of the shims installed in step 6 plus the
thickness of the feeler gauge used to obtain zero preload.
11. Shims selected during this procedure allow differential assembly to be installed at zero preload,
the equivalent of a slip-fit in case, during backlash
adjustment. Final preload is not added until backlash has been adjusted.
Final Assembly and Adjustment
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8266
Fig. 19 Gear tooth contact inspection
1. Ensure that pinion depth and bearing preload are properly adjusted.
2. Install differential case assembly and selected side bearing shims. Refer to Side Bearing Preload
& Backlash. See: 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 Inch Ring
Gear/Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
3. Install bearing caps in proper position and torque cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate assembly to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
5. Mount dial indicator on housing with plunger bearing against tooth on ring gear,
Fig. 18. Use small contact button on indicator plunger so that
contact can be made at heel end of tooth and position dial indicator with plunger in line with gear
rotation and perpendicular to gear tooth.
6. Hold pinion stationary and rock ring gear back and forth while reading backlash on indicator.
7. Check backlash at 3 evenly spaced positions around ring gear and record readings. If backlash
varies by more than .002 inch at any position,
check ring gear installation and runout, and correct as needed.
8. If backlash is not within specifications, remove differential case assembly and bearing shims
keeping shims in order. If ring gear and pinion are
being reused, backlash should be adjusted as close as possible to value measured prior to
disassembly.
9. Backlash is adjusted by increasing thickness of one shim while decreasing thickness of opposite
side shim by the same amount in order to maintain proper side bearing preload. Select shims to
adjust backlash as follows:
a. If backlash is excessive, decrease thickness of shim on gear tooth side and increase thickness
of shim on opposite side by the same amount. b. If backlash is less than specified, increase
thickness of shim on gear tooth side while decreasing thickness of opposite shim by the same
amount.
On models with 7-1/2 & 7-5/8 inch ring gear, each .002 inch change in shim thickness alters
backlash by .001 inch. On models
with 8-1/2 and 8-5/8 inch ring gear, each .003 inch change in shim thickness alters backlash by
.002 inch.
10. Reinstall differential assembly, shims and bearing caps, torque bearing cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.,
then recheck backlash and adjust as needed.
11. If side bearing preload was set to zero during side bearing preload adjustment, proceed as
follows:
a. Remove both bearing caps and shim packs, keeping shim packs in respective left or right
positions. b. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from left side, insert shim between left
bearing race and spacer, then install left bearing cap
with bolts hand tight.
c. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from right side and install shim between right
bearing race and spacer using suitable driver. d. Install right bearing cap and torque all cap bolts to
55 ft. lbs.
12. Ensure that ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat both drive and coast side of
each tooth with suitable marking compound.
13. Apply braking force to ``load'' ring gear, then rotate driveshaft yoke with wrench so that ring
gear rotates one full revolution in each direction. Test
made without ``loading'' gears will not yield satisfactory pattern, and excessive rotating of gears is
not recommended.
14. Compare gear tooth pattern with Fig. 19, and correct assembly adjustments as needed.
15. When proper gear tooth contact pattern has been obtained, clean marking compound from
gears, install cover and new gasket and fill housing with specified lubricant.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8267
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
This procedure is performed after pinion assembly has been installed, and requires use of gauging
tool No. J-22779 or equivalent. If gauging tool is not available, side bearing shim thicknesses can
be determined by using procedure for 7 1/2 inch ring gears.
1. Ensure bearing bores and caps are clean and free of burrs. 2. Lightly lubricate differential case
bearings, install outer races on proper bearings, install differential in housing and support to
prevent falling. 3. Install retaining strap over left bearing cap, secure strap with cap bolts and
evenly tighten bolts to obtain snug fit.
Fig. 14 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment.
4. With ring gear tight against pinion (zero to 0.001 inch backlash), insert gauging tool No. J-22779,
or equivalent, between left bearing race and
housing, Fig. 14.
5. While oscillating tool, turn adjusting nut clockwise to force ring gear toward pinion until
noticeable drag on tool can be felt, then tighten lock bolt
on side of tool.
6. Insert a 0.170 inch service spacer between right bearing cap and housing, then select and install
service shim that will easily slip between spacer
and housing. Do not reuse cast iron production shims as they may crack during installation. If
service spacers and shims were previously
installed, they can be reused.
7. Insert progressively thicker feeler gauges between housing and service shim until slight drag can
be felt when inserting gauge. Thickness of feeler
gauge used to produce slight drag will be dimension C used in
Fig. 14, to determine shim thickness.
8. Remove service spacer and shim, and gauge tool, without disturbing adjustment of tool. 9.
Measure thickness of gauging tool at a minimum of three positions, average measurements and
record average.
10. Add thicknesses of service spacer (A), shim (B) and feeler gauge (C), Fig. 14, and record sum.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8268
11. Apply dimensions obtained in steps 9 and 10 calculation shown in Fig. 14, to determine proper
left and right shim thicknesses.
12. Install shim selected for left side first, then wedge right shim between bearing race and service
spacer. Position shims so that chamfer is toward
outside. If chamfer in right shim is not sufficient to allow installation without damaging spacer, grind
or file chamfer prior to installation. If difficulty is encountered installing right shim, partially remove
case, insert shim, slide shim and case into position, then seat shim using soft-faced hammer while
rotating differential case.
13. Install bearing caps and tighten bolts to specifications, then check and adjust backlash as
needed.
Final Assembly and Adjustment
1. Lubricate side bearings, place outer races over bearings, then install differential assembly into
housing.
2. Insert spacer/shim packs removed during disassembly between respective bearing race and
housing or threaded adjuster.
Fig. 10 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
3. Push case away from adjuster, then tighten adjuster, Fig. 10, while rotating pinion and
supporting case to seat bearings.
4. Back off adjuster and loosely install bearing caps.
5. Tighten adjuster against side bearing until no clearance exists, then tighten adjuster 3 additional
notches to set preload.
6. Torque bearing cap bolts to 70 ft. lbs., install adjuster locks and tighten lock bolt hand tight.
At this point, differential bearing preload is
properly adjusted. If any further adjustments are required, ensure that proper preload remains
established.
Fig. 11 Ring gear & pinion backlash measurement
7. Mount suitable dial indicator on housing with plunger contact bearing against heel of ring gear
tooth and plunger parallel to gear,
Fig. 11.
8. Hold pinion and rock ring gear back and forth, observing backlash on dial indicator.
9. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust as follows:
a. If backlash is excessive, replace shim on ring gear tooth side with one of less thickness while
increasing thickness of opposite shim by an
equal amount.
b. If backlash is less than specified, increase thickness of shim on ring gear tooth side while
reducing opposite shim by an equal amount.
10. After adjusting backlash, ensure that preload is properly established, then tighten adjuster lock
bolt.
11. Ensure that ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coat face of each
tooth with suitable marking compound.
12. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear one revolution in each
direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot be
obtained unless gears are ``loaded'' when rotated.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8269
Fig. 10 Gear Tooth Contact Inspection
13. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to
Fig. 12, and correct assembly adjustments as needed.
14. When proper gear tooth contact pattern has been established, install axle shafts, then torque
pinion shaft lock screw to 20 ft. lbs.
15. Install rear cover and new gasket and fill axle with specified lubricant.
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 9 Pinion Depth Gauge Installation
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if
ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing requires replacement, pinion depth must be adjusted
using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8270
2. Lubricate pinion bearings and install bearings in races.
3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing noting the following. Use gauge assembly tool No.
J-21777-01, Fig. 9, or suitable equivalent. Follow all
tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge assembly. a.
Assemble gauge plate on preload stud.
b. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through rear bearing and pilot, then front bearing and
pilot, install retaining nut and tighten nut hand tight.
c. Rotate tool to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
d. Hold preload stud and tighten nut until 20 inch lbs. torque is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut
in small increments, checking rotating
torque after each adjustment using suitable torque wrench.
e. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step that corresponds to base of housing.
f. Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger.
5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution, then secure to arbor stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotate plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size.
7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button while observing dial indicator.
8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection, zero dial indicator.
Perform steps 7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero setting is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for ``nominal'' pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows: a.
If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension obtained
in step 9.
b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths from dimension
obtained in step 9.
c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number, dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim
thickness.
12. Remove gauging tool and pinion bearings from housing.
DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install pinion bearing races in housing, if not previously installed, using suitable drivers to ensure
that races are squarely seated.
2. Install selected shim on pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
3. Install new collapsible spacer on pinion and insert pinion assembly into housing.
4. Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing in housing and tap bearing onto pinion shaft while
assistant holds pinion in place. Old pinion nut
and large washer can be used to draw front bearing onto pinion, but care must be taken not to
collapse spacer if this method is used.
5. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft flange on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping flange until several pinion shaft threads protrude.
6. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut and
adjust preload to specifications.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure that pinion and bearings are properly installed, as outlined.
2. Hold driveshaft companion flange with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate
pinion until endplay is reduced to zero.
3. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with suitable
torque wrench.
4. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified bearing preload is obtained,
rotating pinion and checking preload after each adjustment.
Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far, requiring replacement of
spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8271
Fig. 11 Pinion Depth shim Selection Chart
Fig. 12 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
1. Inspect head of drive pinion for pinion depth code number. Pinion may be stamped with either
plus (+) or minus (-) number, indicating
necessary modification of shim thickness to ensure proper engagement.
2. Compare depth code number with number on original pinion and use chart, Fig. 11, to select
proper shim thickness for preliminary pinion depth
adjustment as follows: a.
Refer to thickness of shims removed during disassembly and add or subtract the value shown in
chart.
b. If original pinion, housing and rear bearing is to be reused, install shims of original thickness.
3. Position selected shim on axle housing, ensure that bolt holes are aligned, then install pinion
assembly and torque retaining bolts to 65 ft. lbs. in
crossing pattern.
4. Place outer races over differential case bearings, mount differential assembly in housing and
install bearing caps, and tighten cap bolts snug.
5. Loosen right bearing adjusting nut and tighten left nut using suitable tool,
Fig. 12, until ring gear contacts pinion. Do not force gears into
contact. Tighten left nut just enough to obtain zero backlash without binding gears.
6. Loosen left adjusting nut approximately two notches, then install adjusting nut lock.
7. Firmly tighten right adjusting nut to force case against left nut, then loosen nut until clearance
exists between right nut and bearing race.
8. Tighten right adjusting nut until it just contacts bearing race (zero preload), then tighten nut an
additional two slots for used bearings or three slots for new bearings and secure position with
locking retainer.
At this point differential bearing preload is properly set. If any additional
adjustments are required, ensure that preload remains as established. If one adjusting nut is
loosened, the other nut must be tightened an equal amount in order to maintain preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8272
Fig. 13 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Measurement
Fig. 14 Ring Gear & Pinion Tooth Contact Inspection
9. Mount suitable dial indicator on housing with plunger contact bearing against ring gear tooth,
Fig. 13.
10. Hold pinion and rock ring gear back and forth, reading backlash from dial indicator.
11. Backlash should be .003-.012 inch, with .005-.008 inch the preferred setting. If original ring
gear and pinion are used, set backlash to amount
measured during disassembly to avoid changing gear contact pattern.
12. If backlash is not within specifications, proceed as follows: a.
If backlash is greater than .012 inch, loosen right adjusting nut one notch and tighten left nut one
notch.
b. If backlash is less than .003 inch, loosen left adjusting nut one notch, then tighten right nut 1
notch. Always rotate adjusting nuts equal
amounts in opposite directions to maintain differential bearing preload.
c. Recheck backlash after each adjustment and correct as needed.
d. When proper backlash has been obtained, install adjusting nut locks to secure adjustment.
13. Torque side bearing cap bolts to 135 ft. lbs., then check gear tooth contact pattern as follows.
Gear tooth contact pattern must be checked to
verify the correct relationship between ring gear and pinion in order to ensure that pinion depth is
set properly. a.
Ensure that ring gear is clean and free from oil.
b. Apply suitable marking compound to coat drive and coast face of each ring gear tooth.
c. Apply braking force to differential case in order to load gears, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear
one full revolution in each direction. If
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Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8273
check is made without loading gears, a satisfactory pattern cannot be obtained. Excessive rotation
of ring gear is not recommended.
d. Inspect contact pattern on ring gear and correct differential adjustments, if necessary, as shown
in Fig. 14.
e. Clean marking compound from gears.
14. Install axle shafts, rear cover and gasket.
15. Install axle assembly in vehicle, then fill with specified lubricant.
12 1/4 Inch Ring Gear
ASSEMBLY
1. Place new pinion bearing retainer gasket on retainer and install pinion assembly in carrier.
Pinion assembly should be pressed into carrier to
prevent damage to shims.
2. Install pinion bearing retainer bolts and lockwashers, torquing bolts to 165 ft. lbs.
3. Lubricate differential bearing rollers with engine oil and place outer races over bearings.
4. Install differential assembly in carrier and install adjusting nuts. Carefully slide adjusting nuts
alongside bearings so that threads on nuts fit
into threads in carrier.
5. Install differential bearing caps, ensuring that marks made during disassembly are aligned.
6. Install bearing cap bolts and lock washers and tighten until lockwashers just flatten out.
BACKLASH & PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Loosen differential bearing cap bolts just enough so that bearing adjustment nuts may be turned
with tool J-0972 or equivalent, then remove all lash between ring gear and pinion.
2. Back off lefthand adjusting nut one to two notches to a locking position.
3. Tighten righthand adjusting nut firmly to force differential into solid contact with lefthand adjusting
nut.
4. Back off righthand adjusting nut until free of bearing, then retighten snugly against bearing.
5. Tighten righthand nut one to two additional notches to locking position.
6. Mount dial indicator on carrier and check backlash between ring gear and pinion.
7. If backlash exceeds .012 inch, loosen righthand adjusting nut one notch and tighten lefthand
adjusting nut one notch. If backlash is less than .003 inch, loosen lefthand adjusting nut one notch
and tighten righthand adjusting nut one notch.
8. Torque bearing cap bolts to 205 ft. lbs.
9. Install side bearing adjusting nut locks and torque to 15 ft. lbs.
RING GEAR THRUST PAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Inspect bronze tip of thrust pad for wear, replacing as necessary.
2. Install thrust pad and tighten screw until bronze tip engages back face of ring gear while rotating
gear.
3. Back off screw 1/12 turn and torque locknut to 135 ft. lbs. Ensure that screw does not turn during
locking process
CASE & DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION
1. Clean out axle housing and cover and install new gasket on axle housing.
2. Assemble differential carrier to axle housing, then install lockwashers and bolts, torquing bolts to
85 ft. lbs.
3. Install axle housing inspection cover, if removed, with new gasket.
4. Assemble rear universal joint.
5. Install axle shafts. Refer to individual truck chapters.
6. Fill axle to bottom of filler hole with suitable lubricant.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner
Differential Carrier: Service and Repair Borg Warner
1. If removing ring gear, clamp case in a vise so jaws are 90° to pinion shaft holes and remove ten
ring gear retaining bolts. 2. Partially install two bolts on opposite sides of ring gear. 3. Remove ring
gear from case by alternately tapping on bolts. Do not pry between case and ring gear.
Fig. 4 Exploded View Of Cone Type (Borg-Warner) Locking Differential.
4. Remove differential case half attaching bolts, Fig. 4. 5. Lift cap half of case from flange half.
Remove clutch cone/side gears, spring blocks, preload springs, pinion gears and shaft. Mark each
clutch
cone/side gear and pinion gear so they can be reinstalled in their original position.
6. Clean and inspect all parts and replace as necessary. Slight grooves or scratches, indicating
passage of foreign material, are permissible and
normal. If case or clutch cone/side gear are damaged, it is necessary to replace case assembly. All
others parts are serviceable.
7. Install proper cone/gear assembly into position in cap half of case. 8. Place one spring block in
position over gear face, in alignment with pinion gear shaft grooves. Install pinion shaft, pinion
gears and thrust washers
into cap half or differential case in such a manner that pinion shaft retaining dowel can be inserted
through pinion gear shaft into differential case. Be certain that pinon gears are installed in their
original location.
9. Insert five springs into spring block that is already installed in case, then place second spring
block over springs.
10. Install second cone/gear assembly face down on spring block so that gear will mesh with pinion
gears.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8276
Fig. 5 Differential Case Bolt Torque Sequence.
11. Install flange half of differential case over cone, insert case bolts finger tight. Tighten bolts one
turn at a time in sequence shown in Fig. 5. Then
torque case bolts to 30 ft. lbs.
12. If ring gear was removed, position it so that holes line up with case holes. 13. Lubricate new
attaching bolts with clean engine oil and install. 14. Tighten bolts evenly and alternately around the
case. When all bolts are snug, torque evenly and alternately to 120 ft. lbs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Differential Carrier: Service and Repair Corporate and Eaton
Disassembly
Axle can be disassembled either in or out of vehicle. If axle is disassembled in vehicle, it may be
necessary to remove spare tire and/or disconnect shock absorbers to provide clearance for
differential case removal. If axle assembly is allowed to hang, care must be taken not to damage or
stretch flexible brake hose between axle and frame mounted lines.
1. Loosen rear cover bolts, break cover loose at bottom and drain lubricant, then remove cover and
gasket. 2. Mount suitable dial indicator on bearing cap, and measure and record ring gear and
pinion backlash. 3. Remove axles. Refer to
Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints / Axle Shaft, Conventional Fixed/Floating / Service and Repair.
See: Drive Axles,
Bearings and Joints/Axle Shaft Assembly
4. Remove outer wheel bearings and seals, then pinion shaft lock screw and pinion shaft. 5. Roll
pinion gears out of case with pinion thrust washers, then remove side gears and side gear thrust
washers. Mark gears and differential case as
left and right.
6. Remove differential bearing cap bolts, then bearing caps. Mark caps and housing as left and
right.
Fig. 1 Differential Case Assembly Removal.
7. Pry differential case assembly from axle housing, taking care not to damage cover gasket
surface. Remove differential carrier by prying case from
axle housing at differential window, Fig. 1.
8. Remove bearing outer races, shims and spacers. Mark races and bearings as left and right, then
place them with cages. 9. Remove differential side bearings using tool No. J-8107-2 and tool No.
J-22888 or their equivalents.
10. Remove ring gear bolts, then ring gear. Ring gear bolts are left handed threads. Do not pry ring
gear from case as damage to gear and case
will result. Drive ring gear off with a brass drift, if necessary.
11. Check drive pinion preload using suitable torque wrench and record reading. Inspect pinion
assembly for looseness by moving it back and forth,
looseness will indicate excessive bearing wear.
12. Hold driveshaft yoke with suitable tool and remove pinion nut and washer. 13. Remove
driveshaft yoke with suitable puller. 14. Thread pinion nut halfway onto pinion, temporarily install
rear cover, then tap pinion from bearings using large hammer and soft drift. 15. Remove pinion seal
and front pinion bearing from housing. 16. Remove rear cover, then the drive pinion and rear
bearing assembly from housing. 17. Discard collapsible preload spacer, press rear bearing from
pinion, then remove depth adjusting shim and retain for assembly adjustment. 18. Remove bearing
cups from axle housing using a hammer and punch in slots provided. Work cups out of housing
evenly by moving punch back and
forth between sides of cup.
19. Inspect components. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection. See: 7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring
Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
Assembly
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Fig. 19 Gear tooth contact inspection
1. Ensure that pinion depth and bearing preload are properly adjusted.
2. Install differential case assembly and selected side bearing shims. Refer to Side Bearing Preload
& Backlash. See: Adjustments
3. Install bearing caps in proper position and torque cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.
4. Rotate assembly to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
5. Mount dial indicator on housing with plunger bearing against tooth on ring gear,
Fig. 18. Use small contact button on indicator plunger so that
contact can be made at heel end of tooth and position dial indicator with plunger in line with gear
rotation and perpendicular to gear tooth.
6. Hold pinion stationary and rock ring gear back and forth while reading backlash on indicator.
7. Check backlash at 3 evenly spaced positions around ring gear and record readings. If backlash
varies by more than .002 inch at any position,
check ring gear installation and runout, and correct as needed.
8. If backlash is not within specifications, remove differential case assembly and bearing shims
keeping shims in order. If ring gear and pinion are
being reused, backlash should be adjusted as close as possible to value measured prior to
disassembly.
9. Backlash is adjusted by increasing thickness of one shim while decreasing thickness of opposite
side shim by the same amount in order to maintain proper side bearing preload. Select shims to
adjust backlash as follows:
a. If backlash is excessive, decrease thickness of shim on gear tooth side and increase thickness
of shim on opposite side by the same amount. b. If backlash is less than specified, increase
thickness of shim on gear tooth side while decreasing thickness of opposite shim by the same
amount. On models with 7-1/2 & 7-5/8 inch ring gear, each .002 inch change in shim thickness
alters backlash by .001 inch. On models
with 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear, each .003 inch change in shim thickness alters backlash by
.002 inch.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8279
10. Reinstall differential assembly, shims and bearing caps, torque bearing cap bolts to 55 ft. lbs.,
then recheck backlash and adjust as needed.
11. If side bearing preload was set to zero during side bearing preload adjustment, proceed as
follows:
a. Remove both bearing caps and shim packs, keeping shim packs in respective left or right
positions. b. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from left side, insert shim between left
bearing race and spacer, then install left bearing cap
with bolts hand tight.
c. Select shim .004 inch thicker than one removed from right side and install shim between right
bearing race and spacer using suitable driver. d. Install right bearing cap and torque all cap bolts to
55 ft. lbs.
12. Ensure that ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat both drive and coast side of
each tooth with suitable marking compound.
13. Apply braking force to ``load'' ring gear, then rotate driveshaft yoke with wrench so that ring
gear rotates one full revolution in each direction. Test
made without ``loading'' gears will not yield satisfactory pattern, and excessive rotating of gears is
not recommended.
14. Compare gear tooth pattern with Fig. 19, and correct assembly adjustments as needed.
15. When proper gear tooth contact pattern has been obtained, clean marking compound from
gears, install cover and new gasket and fill housing with specified lubricant.
Cleaning & Inspection
1. Clean components in suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air, noting the following:
a. Do not use brush when cleaning bearings. b. Do not ``spin dry'' bearings, as bearings will be
damaged. c. Lightly lubricate components after cleaning to retard corrosion. d. Keep all
components in order to ensure proper assembly.
2. Inspect gears for cracks, chipped teeth, wear and scoring, and damaged bearing or mounting
surfaces. Replace gears that are damaged or excessively worn.
Ring gear and pinion must be replaced as an assembly.
3. Inspect differential case for cracks, damage, worn side gear bores and scored bearing surfaces
and replace as needed.
4. Inspect housing for scored bearing mount surfaces, cracks and distortion, and replace as
needed.
5. Inspect bearing rollers and races for pitting, scoring, overheating and damage.
6. Mate bearing with race and check operation.
7. Replace any bearing that is damaged, excessively worn or that fails to operate smoothly.
8. Mount differential case along with side bearings and ring gear in housing, and check runout with
side bearings adjusted for zero preload and suitable dial indicator positioned against machined
edge of ring gear.
9. If runout exceeds .003 inch, and gear cannot be repositioned to eliminate runout, ring gear
and/or case should be replaced.
Standard
Fig. 2 Standard differential assembly exploded view
1. If side carrier bearings are to be replaced, remove bearings using suitable puller.
2. Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt and the pinion shaft, Fig. 2.
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3. Remove differential pinions and thrust washers, side gears and side gear thrust washers, noting
installation position for assembly. Keep thrust washers with respective gears.
4. Remove ring gear bolts, then the ring gear, driving ring gear from case using suitable drift and
hammer. Ring gear bolts have lefthand threads.
Do not pry between ring gear and case, as mating surfaces will be damaged.
5. Inspect components. Refer to
Cleaning and Inspection. See: 7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
6. Install thrust washers on side gears and mount side gears in case. Lubricate all components with
specified gear lubricant prior to assembly.
7. Position one differential pinion (less thrust washer) between side gears and rotate gears until
pinion is directly opposite case loading opening.
8. Install other pinion with pinion shaft holes aligned, then rotate side gears and ensure that pinions
align with shaft openings in case.
9. When pinions are properly aligned, rotate pinions toward loading opening just enough to allow
thrust washer installation and install washers.
10. Align pinions with shaft opening in case, insert pinion shaft through case, install new lock bolt
and torque bolt to 20 ft. lbs.
11. Ensure that ring gear and case mating surfaces are clean and free from burrs, mount gear on
case, install 2 new retaining bolts at opposite sides of gear and alternately tighten bolts to draw
gear on case.
12. Install remaining ring gear bolts hand tight and ensure that gear is squarely seated on case.
Always use new bolts of proper type when installing
ring gear. Do not reuse old bolts.
13. Alternately torque ring gear bolts to 80-95 ft. lbs. on models with 7 1/2 inch ring gear, 80 ft. lbs.
on models with 8 1/2 inch ring gear or 60 ft. lbs. on models with 8 5/8 inch ring gear.
14. Press side bearings onto case. If old bearings are reused, ensure that bearings are installed in
original position.
Limited Slip
Fig. 3 Chevrolet disc type limited slip differential exploded view
1. Remove ring gear and side bearings, then remove pinion shaft, Fig. 3.
2. Using a brass drift drive the preload spring from the case.
3. Support an axle shaft in a vise, and slide the case into the shaft, then turn the case to remove
both pinions and thrust washers.
4. Remove the case from the axle shaft, then remove both side gears, clutch packs and shims.
Mark the gears, clutch packs and shims for reinstallation in same position.
5. Inspect gears, bearings and case. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection. See: 7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring
Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
6. Inspect clutch plates and spacers, and replace if worn or overheated.
7. Replace preload spring if force required to compress spring to height of 1 5/16 inches is not
270-330 lbs.
8. Lubricate the clutch discs and plates with limited slip lubricant.
9. Alternately position clutch plates and discs on a side gear, beginning and ending with a clutch
plate, Fig. 3.
10. Position the side gear, clutch pack and original shim into the case.
11. Install both pinion gears and thrust washers into the case, and install the pinion shaft.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8281
12. Install the case onto an axle shaft supported in a vise.
13. Insert a screwdriver between the pinion shaft and the face of the side gear. Force the
screwdriver in until the clutch pack is compressed.
14. Check the backlash between the side gear and pinion gears. If backlash does not fall into the
range of .005 inch to .008 inch, adjust the shim dimension as required. Increasing shim thickness
will decrease backlash; decreasing shim thickness will increase backlash. Service shims are
available from .070 inch to .122 inch in increments of .004 inch.
15. Remove the pinion shaft, pinion gears, side gear, clutch pack and shim from the case.
16. Install the opposite gear, clutch pack and original shim into the opposite side of the case. Place
both pinion gears and thrust washers into place, and install the pinion shaft.
17. Follow the procedure in steps 12, 13, and 14 to determine the proper shim dimension.
18. When proper shim dimensions have been determined, remove pinion gears and pinion shaft
and install both side gears, shims and clutch packs into case.
19. Mount the case onto the axle shaft locked in a vise. Place both pinions and thrust washers into
position 180° apart and carefully ``roll in'' by turning the case on the shaft. A large ``C'' clamp may
be used to apply slight compression against pinion gears to aid the ``rolling in'' procedure.
20. Tap the preload spring into place with a hammer.
21. Install the pinion shaft and lock screw.
22. Install the side bearings and ring gear using the procedure outlined for conventional units.
23. Place the differential unit in the carrier and adjust ring gear and pinion backlash, and gear tooth
pattern.
Limited Slip
Fig. 6 Eaton limited slip differential exploded view
1. Remove pinion shaft lock screw and pull pinion shaft from case, Fig. 6.
2. Remove preload spring retainer and springs.
3. Rotate side gears until pinions are in open area of case and pick out pinions and thrust washers.
4. Remove a side gear, clutch pack and shims, noting shim location in case to aid in reassembly.
Remove side gear clutch pack and shims from opposite side. If side gear or clutch pack cannot be
removed readily, drive it out with a brass drift.
5. Remove clutch plate guides and separate shims and clutch plates from side gears. Keep clutch
plates in their original location in clutch pack.
6. If pinion shaft, pinions or side gears are excessively scored, pitted or worn, replace parts
affected.
7. Inspect clutch plates for scored, worn, cracked or distorted condition. If any of these conditions
exist, new clutch plates must be installed.
8. Alternately position nine clutch plates on side gear, starting and ending with a plate with external
lugs, Fig. 6.
9. Install two clutch guides over clutch plate lugs.
10. Install same shims which were removed or an equal amount on clutch plate.
11. Repeat above steps on other clutch pack.
12. Install one side gear with clutch pack and shims in case.
13. Position two pinion gears and thrust washers on side gear and install pinion shaft.
14. Compress clutch pack by inserting a screwdriver or wedge between side gear and pinion shaft.
15. Install a suitable dial indicator with contact button against pinion gear.
16. Rotate pinion gear. Clearance should be .001 inch to .006 inch.
17. If clearance is more than .006 inch, add shims between clutch pack and case. If clearance is
less than .001 inch, remove shims. A .002 inch shim will change clearance about .001 inch.
Recheck clearance after adding or subtracting shims.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8282
18. Remove side gear and repeat procedure with remaining clutch pack on opposite side of case.
19. Remove pinion shaft, pinions and thrust washers.
20. Install remaining side gear and clutch pack with correct shims in case.
21. Place pinion gears on side gears and rotate into correct position.
22. Compress preload springs and drive preload retainer and springs between side gears.
23. Insert thrust washers behind pinion gears.
24. Install pinion shaft and retain with lock bolt, tightening lock bolt to 15-25 ft. lbs.
25. Check side gear splined hole to be certain it is in line with hole in preload spring retainer.
Spring retainer can be moved slightly to correct alignment.
Case Disassembly
1. Note position of governor and latching bracket for assembling, then remove side bearings and
ring gear as outlined for standard differentials.
Fig. 7 Governor & Latch Bracket Bushing Removal.
2. Remove governor assembly and latching bracket by pulling retaining bushings from case,
Fig. 7. Pull latching bracket spring aside when removing
bushings to prevent damage.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 8 Exploded View Of Eaton Locking Differential.
3. Remove lock screw and pinion shaft, Fig. 8, then roll differential pinions to access window by
turning side gears and remove pinions.
4. Remove pinion thrust washers and thrust block, keeping all components in order for assembling.
5. Remove right side gear, disc pack and shim assembly, and guide clips. 6. Remove left cam gear
and disc pack assembly along with shim and guide clips. 7. Clean and inspect all components,
keeping components in order for assembling. 8. Replace components that are damaged, deformed
or excessively worn.
Due to critical tolerances required for proper operation, the
differential case cannot be serviced separately. If case is defective, the entire differential assembly
must be replaced. In addition, internal clearances are such that shims, thrust block or gears should
not be replaced unnecessarily, even if slight wear patterns are evident. If shims, thrust block or side
gears must be replaced, measurement and replacement procedures must be performed as outlined
in order to maintain critical assembly clearances.
Cam Gear Clutch Service
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Fig. 8 Exploded View Of Eaton Locking Differential.
1. Remove retaining ring from end of cam gear, Fig. 8.
2. Remove discs and cam plate from gear, keeping all components in order. 3. Clean and inspect
components, and replace any that are damaged, distorted or excessively worn.
If cam gear must be replaced, refer to Shim
Selection for shim selection procedures prior to case assembling. Refer to Shim Selection. See: 7
1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton/Locking/Shim Selection
4. Position gear on flat surface with hub end up, and assemble cam plate onto gear with cam form
down to mate with cam form on gear. 5. Assemble two eared discs, one splined disc and one wave
washer on cam gear, starting with eared disc as shown in
Fig. 8.
6. Alternately assemble three eared discs and two splined discs on cam gear hub, starting with
eared discs. 7. Install retaining ring, ensuring that retainer is fully seated.
Side Gear (RH) Clutch Service
1. Remove disc pack and shim from side gear, keeping components in order. 2. Clean and inspect
components, and replace any that are damaged, deformed or excessively worn.
If side gear must be replaced. refer to Shim
Selection for shim selection prior to case assembly. If side gear hub is scored or worn, inspect bore
in case and replace assembly if bore is damaged or worn.
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Fig. 8 Exploded View Of Eaton Locking Differential.
3. Alternately assemble eared discs and splined discs on side gear hub, starting with eared disc as
shown in Fig. 8.
4. Install original shim or replacement shim of same thickness if original side gear is being used.
Shim Selection
Cam Gear Shim Selection
1. Install cam gear assembly in case using original thrust washer or washer of equal thickness. 2.
Mount differential pinions and thrust washers in proper installed position in case, manually depress
cam gear into bore and insert pinion shaft
through case and pinion assemblies, and secure shaft with lockscrew. If pinion shaft cannot be
inserted, it will be necessary to replace cam
gear shim with one of less thickness.
3. Index one tooth of pinion gear nearest shaft lock-screw so that tooth points downward,
perpendicular to case flange. 4. Wedge large tapered screwdriver between cam gear and pinion
shaft to hold gear compressed in bore.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8286
Fig. 9 Differential Pinion Backlash Inspection.
5. Mount suitable dial indicator on case with pointer bearing against indexed differential pinion
tooth, Fig. 9.
6. Ensure pinion is firmly pulled back in seat, then rock pinion back and forth, read backlash
clearance from dial indicator and note reading. 7. Index tooth of opposite differential pinion as
outlined in step 3, then repeat steps 5 and 6. 8. Replace cam gear assembly shim as needed to
obtain differential pinion backlash of 0.010-0.018 inch.
If cam gear is replaced, perform Thrust
Block Selection procedure during case assembly to ensure proper case assembly clearances.
Refer to Thrust Block Selection. See: 7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton/Locking/Thrust
Block Selection
Side Gear Shim Selection When side gear is replaced, or if side gear shim is damaged and proper
thickness must be determined, select proper side gear shim thickness by measuring backlash
between side gear and differential pinions. Follow procedure outlined for "Cam Gear Shim
Selection, using fully assembled side gear properly installed in case and select a shim that will
provide 0.002-0.010 inch backlash between side gear and differential pinions.
Thrust Block Selection
If cam gear and/or side gear have been replaced, or if it is necessary to replace thrust block and
original dimension cannot be determined, use the following procedure during differential case
assembling to determine proper thrust block dimension.
1. Install cam gear and side gear assemblies in respective positions in case, insert differential
pinion shaft through case bores and secure with lock
screw.
2. Wedge large tapered screwdrivers or equivalent tools between cam gear and pinion shaft and
side gear and pinion shaft to seat gears in case.
Fig. 10 Side Gear Spread Inspection.
3. Using suitable gauge, measure distance between face of cam gear and face of side gear, Fig.
10, and record reading. Ensure gauge ends rest on
gear faces, not gear teeth when measuring side gear spread.
4. Measure thickness of original thrust block at outer corner and record dimension. 5. Select thrust
block with thickness zero to 0.006 inch less than side gear spread measured in step 3.
If original thrust block is serviceable, but
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does not provide the specified zero to 0.006 inch clearance, RH side gear can be shimmed to
provide proper thrust block clearance as long as side gear backlash is maintained within the
specified 0.002-0.010 inch.
Differential Case Assembly
1. Install four clutch pack guide clips on cam gear clutch pack, using heavy grease to retain clips.
Fig. 8 Exploded View Of Eaton Locking Differential.
2. Install cam gear assembly along with shim in flange end of case, Fig. 8. If cam gear has been
replaced, perform shim selection procedure
prior to installation.
3. Install four guide clips on assembled side gear clutch pack using grease to retain clips. 4. Install
side gear assembly in case along with shim.
If side gear has been replaced, perform shim selection procedure prior to installation.
5. Lock axle shaft in vise with sufficient portion of spline protruding from vise to engage side gear,
then mount case assembly on axle and engage
axle with side gear.
6. Install thrust washers on back of differential pinions using grease to adhere washers. 7. Install
one pinion assembly through small case opening while simultaneously installing remaining pinion
and thrust block through large opening. 8. Rotate assembly approximately 90° to position open side
of thrust block toward small opening in case and pinions in proper installed position.
If
side gears and/or thrust block have been replaced, refer to Thrust Block Selection Procedure to
ensure proper assembly clearances. Refer to
Thrust Block Selection. See: 7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton/Locking/Thrust Block
Selection
9. Insert pinion shaft ensuring that pinion thrust washers are properly positioned, then install new
lock screw and torque screw to 20 ft. lbs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 11 Governor & Latching Bracket Installation.
10. Insert governor assembly and latching bracket into case, Fig. 11, positioning straight end of
latching bracket spring over and to the outside of the
engagement shaft to preload bracket against governor.
11. Press governor assembly bushing into case to a depth which will allow .004-0.020 inch shaft
endplay. 12. Press latching bracket bushing into case to a depth which will provide zero to 0.003
inch shaft endplay. 13. Install ring gear and bearings as outlined for standard differentials.
Always use new bolts of proper type when installing ring gear. Do not
reuse old bolts.
Disassembly
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Fig. 1 Chevrolet 9-1/2 inch semi-floating drive axle w/standard differential exploded view. Full
floating models similar
Axle can be disassembled either in or out of vehicle. If axle is disassembled in vehicle it may be
necessary to disconnect shock absorbers and
lower housing to provide clearance for differential case removal. If housing is lowered care must be
taken not to damage flexible brake hose between housing and frame.
1. Loosen rear cover bolts, break gasket seal and drain lubricant, then remove rear cover, Fig. 1.
2. Remove axle shafts. Refer to Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints / Axle Shaft, Conventional
Fixed/Floating / Service and Repair. See: Drive
Axles, Bearings and Joints/Axle Shaft Assembly/Service and Repair
3. On models with standard differential, rotate case and remove differential pinions and thrust
washers, noting position for assembly.
Keep all
components in order so that any component reused can be installed in original position.
4. On all models, measure and record ring gear and pinion backlash to aid assembly.
5. Remove bolt securing threaded preload adjuster lock, lock, side bearing cap bolts and the side
bearing caps.
6. Pry differential case assembly from housing taking care not to mar machined surfaces, then
remove case, bearing races and shims. Place bearing races and shim packs with respective
bearing caps.
7. Measure pinion rotating torque with suitable torque wrench. If no preload is present and play can
be felt, pinion bearings may be defective.
8. Hold driveshaft companion flange with suitable tool and remove pinion nut and washer.
9. Remove companion flange with suitable puller.
10. Thread pinion nut half-way onto pinion, temporarily install rear cover, then tap pinion from front
bearing using soft drift and hammer.
11. Pry pinion seal from housing, then remove front pinion bearing, cover, and pinion and rear
bearing assembly.
12. Discard collapsible spacer, press rear bearing from pinion, remove depth adjusting shim and
retain shim for assembly.
13. Drive pinion bearing races from housing, positioning suitable drift in recesses in case to prevent
damage.
Keep races with respective bearings
and keep components in order for assembly.
14. Inspect components. Refer to
Cleaning and Inspection and replace as needed. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
Assembly
1. Lubricate side bearings, place outer races over bearings, then install differential assembly into
housing.
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2. Insert spacer/shim packs removed during disassembly between respective bearing race and
housing or threaded adjuster.
Fig. 10 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
3. Push case away from adjuster, then tighten adjuster, Fig. 10, while rotating pinion and
supporting case to seat bearings.
4. Back off adjuster and loosely install bearing caps.
5. Tighten adjuster against side bearing until no clearance exists, then tighten adjuster three
additional notches to set preload.
6. Torque bearing cap bolts to 60 ft. lbs., install adjuster locks and tighten lock bolt hand tight.
At this point, differential bearing preload is
properly adjusted. If any further adjustments are required, ensure that proper preload remains
established.
Fig. 11 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Measurement
7. Mount suitable dial indicator on housing with plunger contact bearing against heel of ring gear
tooth and plunger parallel to gear,
Fig. 11.
8. Hold pinion and rock ring gear back and forth, observing backlash on dial indicator.
9. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust as follows: a.
If backlash is excessive, replace shim on ring gear tooth side with one of less thickness while
increasing thickness of opposite shim by an equal amount.
b. If backlash is less than specified, increase thickness of shim on ring gear tooth side while
reducing opposite shim by an equal amount.
10. After adjusting backlash, ensure that preload is properly established, then tighten adjuster lock
bolt.
11. Ensure that ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coat face of each
tooth with suitable marking compound.
12. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear one revolution in each
direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot be
obtained unless gears are ``loaded'' when rotated.
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Fig. 12 Gear Tooth Contact Inspection
13. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to
Fig. 12, and correct assembly adjustments as needed.
14. When proper gear tooth contact pattern has been established, install axle shafts, then torque
pinion shaft lock screw to 20 ft. lbs.
15. Install rear cover and new gasket and fill axle with specified lubricant.
Cleaning & Inspection
1. Clean components in suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air, noting the following:
a. Do not use brush when cleaning bearings. b. Do not ``spin dry'' bearings as bearings will be
damaged. c. Lightly lubricate components after cleaning to retard corrosion. d. Keep all
components in order to ensure proper assembly.
2. Inspect gears for cracks, chipped or broken teeth, wear and scoring. Replace gears that are
damaged or excessively worn.
Ring gear and pinion
must be replaced as an assembly.
3. Inspect differential case for cracks, damage, distortion, worn side gear bores and scored bearing
surfaces, and replace as needed.
4. Inspect housing for scored bearing mount surfaces, cracks and distortion, and replace as
needed. Ensure that housing is clean and free from foreign material.
5. Inspect bearing rollers and races for pitting, scoring, overheating and damage.
6. Mate each bearing with race and check operation.
7. Replace any bearing assembly that is damaged, excessively worn, or that fails to operate
smoothly.
8. Mount differential case along with side bearings and ring gear in housing, adjust side bearings to
zero preload and check ring gear runout with dial indicator bearing against machined edge of gear.
9. If ring gear runout exceeds .003 inch and gear cannot be repositioned to reduce runout, replace
ring gear and/or differential case.
Corporate - Standard
1. If case side bearings are to be replaced, remove bearings using suitable puller, ensuring that
puller is properly seated in recesses in case.
2. Remove ring gear retaining bolts, then tap gear from case using suitable drift. Do not pry gear
from case as machined surfaces will be damaged.
3. Remove side gears and thrust washers from case noting position for assembly.
4. Inspect components. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Cleaning &
Inspection
Coat all components with specified axle lubricant prior to assembly. If components are to be
reused, they must be installed in original position.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 1 Chevrolet 9-1/2 inch semi-floating drive axle w/standard differential exploded view. Full
floating models similar
5. Install side gears and thrust washers in case, Fig. 1.
6. Install thrust washers on differential pinions, using grease to adhere washers.
7. Position differential pinions in case 180° apart in mesh with side gears, then rotate side gears to
roll pinions into position.
8. When pinions are aligned with shaft openings in case, install pinion shaft and temporarily secure
shaft with new lock bolt. Do not torque lock
bolt to specifications until axle shafts have been installed.
Fig. 2 Ring gear installation
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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9. Align ring gear with bolt holes in case and press on adapter plug J-8107-04 or equivalent, Fig. 2,
to start gear on case pilot.
10. Install new ring gear bolts and tighten bolts alternately and evenly to draw gear onto case. New
ring gear bolts must be used during assembly.
Do not reuse ring gear bolts.
11. Ensure that ring gear is fully seated, then torque retaining bolts to 105 ft. lbs.
12. Position side bearings on case and seat bearings using suitable driver. When installing second
bearing, support case with suitable pilot to prevent damaging cage of bearing already installed.
Case Disassembly
Fig. 3 Governor & latching bracket installation. Eaton locking differential
Fig. 4 Governor & latching bracket bushing removal. Eaton locking differential
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 5 Eaton locking differential exploded view
1. Note position of governor and latching bracket, Fig. 3, then remove side bearings and ring gear
as outlined for standard differential.
2. Remove governor and latching bracket bushings using J-26252 or equivalent,
Fig. 4, then the governor and latching bracket. Position latching
bracket spring aside when removing governor bushing to prevent damage.
3. Drive stop pin from case using suitable drift,
Fig. 5.
4. Remove differential pinion shaft lock bolt and the pinion shaft.
5. Roll out differential pinions and remove pinions and thrust washers, keeping components in
order for assembly.
6. Remove right side gear, disc pack and shim, and guide clips.
7. Remove left cam gear, disc pack assembly, shim and guide clips.
8. Clean and inspect all components, keeping components in order for assembly, and replace
components that are damaged, distorted or excessively worn.
Due to critical tolerances required for proper operation, the differential case cannot be serviced
separately. If case is defective, the
entire differential assembly must be replaced. In addition, internal clearances are such that shims,
thrust block or gears should not be replaced unnecessarily, even if slight wear patterns are evident.
If shims, thrust block, cam gear thrust ring or side gears must be replaced, measurement and
replacement procedures must be followed as outlined in order to maintain critical assembly
clearances.
Cam Gear Clutch Service
1. Measure and record overall length of cam gear assembly from front face of gear to back side of
thrust ring, including shim.
Fig. 6 Cam Gear Thrust Ring Removal. Eaton Locking Differential
2. With gear hub facing up, compress disc pack and insert jaws of suitable split ring bearing puller
between thrust ring and top eared disc with bevel side of puller facing thrust ring,
Fig. 6.
3. Support bearing remover in press and press cam gear from thrust ring using 1 3/4 inch diameter
spacer. Keep all component in order as cam gear is removed.
4. Remove disc pack and cam plate from gear, clean and inspect components, and replace any
that are damaged or excessively worn. Do not replace
thrust ring and/or cam gear unless necessary. If ring or gear is excessively worn or scored, inspect
bore in case. If case bore is scored, entire assembly must be replaced. If cam gear or thrust ring
are replaced, shim thickness must be selected to provide original assembly dimension and proper
differential pinion backlash.
5. Position cam gear on flat surface with hub end up and install cam plate with cam form down to
mate with form on gear.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 5 Eaton locking differential exploded view
6. Assemble 2 eared discs, 1 splined disc and wave spring onto cam plate as shown in
Fig. 5. If components are reused, they must be installed in
original position.
7. Alternately assemble 3 splined and 4 eared discs on cam gear hub, as shown in
Fig. 5.
8. Mount cam gear assembly in press and position thrust ring over gear hub.
9. Compress disc pack to prevent splined disc from being trapped, then press thrust ring onto gear
until seated against shoulder of gear.
10. Inspect assembly to ensure that discs are properly assembled and that first splined disc (large
spline) is properly located on cam plate.
Side Gear (RH) Clutch Service
1. Remove shim and disc pack from gear keeping components in order.
2. Inspect discs and guide clips and replace as needed.
3. Inspect side gear and shim. If either component is scored or excessively worn, inspect case and
replace entire assembly if case is defective. If
either side gear or shim must be replaced, shim thickness must be determined. Refer to Shim
Selection. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Shim Selection
Fig. 5 Eaton locking differential exploded view
4. Alternately assemble splined and eared discs on side gear hub as shown in Fig. 5. If
components are reused, they must be installed in original
position.
5. Install original shim or new shim of equal thickness.
Shim Selection
CAM GEAR SHIM SELECTION
If cam gear is replaced, or if original cam gear shim thickness cannot be determined, shim must be
selected to maintain proper backlash with differential pinions using following procedure.
1. Install disc pack guide clips, then mount cam gear assembly in differential case using original
shim.
2. Install differential pinions and thrust washers in installed position in case, then insert pinion shaft
and retain shaft with lock screw. If pinion shaft
cannot be inserted, replace cam gear shim with one of less thickness.
3. Index one tooth of pinion closest to lockscrew so that it points downward, perpendicular to case
flange.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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4. Wedge large screwdriver or similar tool between pinion shaft and face of cam gear to compress
gear assembly into case.
5. Mount suitable dial indicator on case with plunger button bearing against pinion tooth indexed in
step 3,
Fig. 7.
6. Pull pinion gear against case, rotate pinion back and forth against cam gear and read backlash
from indicator.
7. Repeat steps 3 through 6 with remaining differential pinion.
8. Select a cam gear shim which will provide .010-.018 backlash between cam gear and differential
pinions. When cam gear and/or shim is
replaced, thrust block must be measured and selected to maintain proper clearance during
assembly.
SIDE GEAR (R.H.) SHIM SELECTION
If side gear is replaced, or if original shim thickness cannot be determined, select proper side gear
shim thickness by measuring backlash between side gear and differential pinions. Follow
procedure outlined for ``Cam Gear Shim Selection,'' using fully assembled side gear properly
installed in case. Select a shim that will provide .002-.010 inch backlash between side gear and
differential pinions. If side gear and/or shim is replaced, refer to
Thrust Block Selection during case assembly in order to install thrust block that will maintain proper
assembly clearances. See: 9 1/2 Inch
Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Thrust Block Selection
Thrust Block Selection
If cam gear, side gear, and/or shims have been replaced, or if it is necessary to replace thrust block
and original dimension cannot be determined, use following procedure during differential case
assembly to determine proper thrust block side.
1. Install fully assembled cam and side gears in case along with selected shims.
2. Install differential pinion shaft and secure with lock screw.
3. Wedge large screwdrivers or similar tools between pinion shaft and cam and side gears.
Fig. 8 Side gear spread measurement. Eaton locking differential
4. Measure distance between cam gear face and side gear face (side gear spread) using suitable
gauge, Fig. 8, and record dimension. Ensure that
gauge is ``square'' in case and that gauge bears against faces of gears, not gear teeth.
5. Select thrust block of a thickness zero to .006 inch less than dimension measured in step 4.
Original thrust block can be reused if it is
undamaged and will provide the specified zero to .006 inch clearance. Right side gear can also be
reshimmed to obtain specified thrust
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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block clearance, as long as specified .002-.010 inch backlash between side gear and differential
pinions is maintained.
Differential Case Assembly
1. Install 4 guide clips on cam gear clutch ears, using grease for retention.
2. Install cam gear assembly along with selected shim into case noting the following:
a. If cam gear was replaced, select shim. Refer to Shim Selection. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring
Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Shim Selection
b. If cam gear thrust ring was replaced, measure length of entire cam gear assembly, including
shim. c. If measurement varies more than .003 inch from length measured during disassembly,
select and install shim that will return assembly to
original length. Incorrect shimming will result in differential malfunction and may cause premature
failure.
3. Mount axle shaft in vise with spline protruding enough to engage cam gear, then mount case
assembly over shaft engaging shaft in gear.
4. Install 4 small guide clips on ears of side gear clutch pack, using grease to retain clips.
5. Install thrust washers on differential pinions, using grease to adhere washers.
6. Install side gear assembly along with selected shim in case, insert one pinion through small
opening in case while simultaneously installing remaining pinion and thrust block through large
opening, then rotate case assembly on axle shaft to position pinions in line with shaft opening and
thrust block with open side toward small opening in case.
Thrust block clearance is critical to proper differential operation. If either side
gear, shims or cam gear thrust ring have been replaced, check side gear spread as outlined in
Thrust Block Selection, and select thrust block which will provide zero to .006 inch clearance. Refer
to Thrust Block Selection. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Thrust Block
Selection
7. Ensure that pinions and thrust washers are properly positioned, then install pinion shaft and
secure with lock screw. Do not torque lock screw until axle shafts have been installed.
Fig. 3 Governor & latching bracket installation. Eaton locking differential
8. Insert governor assembly and latching bracket into case, placing straight end of latching bracket
spring over and to outside of engagement shaft to preload bracket against governor,
Fig. 3.
9. Press governor and latching bracket bushings into case as follows:
a. Press governor bushing in to a depth that will provide .004-.020 inch endplay. b. Press bracket
bushing in to a depth that will just eliminate endplay. c. Press stop pin in until flush with top of case.
10. Install ring gear and side bearings. Refer to Corporate - Standard. See: 9 1/2 Inch Ring
Gear/Overhaul/Corporate - Standard
Disassembly
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 1 Chevrolet 10-1/2 inch drive axle exploded view
1. Mount axle assembly in suitable holding fixture, remove rear cover and gasket, Fig. 1, and drain
lubricant.
2. Remove axle shafts.
3. Measure ring gear and pinion backlash using suitable dial indicator and record reading to aid
assembly.
4. Remove adjusting nut lock retainers, then mark installation position of side bearing caps.
Keep all components in order during disassembly so
that any component to be reused can be installed in original position.
5. Remove side bearing caps, then loosen bearing adjusters using J-24429 or equivalent and lift
differential assembly from housing.
6. Remove side bearing outer races and place with respective bearing caps.
7. Measure pinion rotating torque using suitable torque wrench. If no bearing preload is present, or
if endplay is evident, pinion bearings may require replacement.
8. Remove pinion bearing retainer bolts, then the pinion assembly, tapping on pilot end of pinion to
free assembly from housing.
9. Measure and record thickness of shim installed between pinion bearing retainer and housing and
retain shims for assembly.
10. Inspect components. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection, and replace as needed. See: 10 1/2
Inch Ring Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
Assembly
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
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Fig. 11 Pinion Depth shim Selection Chart
Fig. 12 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
1. Inspect head of drive pinion for pinion depth code number. Pinion may be stamped with either
plus (+) or minus (-) number, indicating
necessary modification of shim thickness to ensure proper engagement.
2. Compare depth code number with number on original pinion and use chart, Fig. 11, to select
proper shim thickness for preliminary pinion depth
adjustment as follows: a.
Refer to thickness of shims removed during disassembly and add or subtract the value shown in
chart.
b. If original pinion, housing and rear bearing is to be reused, install shims of original thickness.
3. Position selected shim on axle housing, ensure that bolt holes are aligned, then install pinion
assembly and torque retaining bolts to 65 ft. lbs. in
crossing pattern.
4. Place outer races over differential case bearings, mount differential assembly in housing and
install bearing caps, and tighten cap bolts snug.
5. Loosen right bearing adjusting nut and tighten left nut using suitable tool,
Fig. 12, until ring gear contacts pinion. Do not force gears into
contact. Tighten left nut just enough to obtain zero backlash without binding gears.
6. Loosen left adjusting nut approximately two notches, then install adjusting nut lock.
7. Firmly tighten right adjusting nut to force case against left nut, then loosen nut until clearance
exists between right nut and bearing race.
8. Tighten right adjusting nut until it just contacts bearing race (zero preload), then tighten nut an
additional two slots for used bearings or three slots for new bearings and secure position with
locking retainer.
At this point differential bearing preload is properly set. If any additional
adjustments are required, ensure that preload remains as established. If one adjusting nut is
loosened, the other nut must be tightened an equal amount in order to maintain preload.
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Fig. 13 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Measurement
Fig. 14 Ring Gear & Pinion Tooth Contact Inspection
9. Mount suitable dial indicator on housing with plunger contact bearing against ring gear tooth,
Fig. 13.
10. Hold pinion and rock ring gear back and forth, reading backlash from dial indicator.
11. Backlash should be .003-.012 inch, with .005-.008 inch the preferred setting. If original ring
gear and pinion are used, set backlash to amount
measured during disassembly to avoid changing gear contact pattern.
12. If backlash is not within specifications, proceed as follows: a.
If backlash is greater than .012 inch, loosen right adjusting nut one notch and tighten left nut one
notch.
b. If backlash is less than .003 inch, loosen left adjusting nut one notch, then tighten right nut 1
notch. Always rotate adjusting nuts equal
amounts in opposite directions to maintain differential bearing preload.
c. Recheck backlash after each adjustment and correct as needed.
d. When proper backlash has been obtained, install adjusting nut locks to secure adjustment.
13. Torque side bearing cap bolts to 135 ft. lbs., then check gear tooth contact pattern as follows.
Gear tooth contact pattern must be checked to
verify the correct relationship between ring gear and pinion in order to ensure that pinion depth is
set properly. a.
Ensure that ring gear is clean and free from oil.
b. Apply suitable marking compound to coat drive and coast face of each ring gear tooth.
c. Apply braking force to differential case in order to load gears, then turn pinion to rotate ring gear
one full revolution in each direction. If
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check is made without loading gears, a satisfactory pattern cannot be obtained. Excessive rotation
of ring gear is not recommended.
d. Inspect contact pattern on ring gear and correct differential adjustments, if necessary, as shown
in Fig. 14.
e. Clean marking compound from gears.
14. Install axle shafts, rear cover and gasket.
15. Install axle assembly in vehicle, then fill with specified lubricant.
Cleaning & Inspection
1. Clean components in suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air, noting the following:
a. Do not use brush when cleaning bearings. b. Do not ``spin dry'' bearings as they will be
damaged. c. Lightly lubricate components after cleaning to retard corrosion. d. Keep all
components in order to ensure proper assembly.
2. Inspect gears for cracks, chipped or broken teeth, wear and scoring. Replace gears that are
damaged or excessively worn. Ring gear and pinion
must be replaced as an assembly.
3. Inspect differential case for cracks, damage, distortion, and worn or scored side gear bores and
bearing surfaces. Replace case if damaged or scored.
4. Inspect axle and pinion housings for scored bearing mount surfaces, cracks and distortion, and
replace as needed. Ensure that housing is clean and free from foreign material.
5. Inspect bearing rollers and races for pitting, scoring, overheating and damage.
6. Mate each bearing with race and check operation.
7. Replace any bearing assembly that is damaged, excessively worn, or that fails to operate
smoothly.
8. Mount differential case along with ring gear and side bearings in housing, adjust side bearings to
zero preload and check ring gear runout with dial indicator bearing against machined edge of gear.
9. If ring gear runout exceeds .003 inch and gear cannot be repositioned to reduce runout, replace
ring gear and/or case assembly.
Corporate - Standard
1. If side bearings are to be replaced, remove bearings using suitable puller, ensuring that puller
jaws are seated in case notches and pulling against side bearing inner race.
2. Remove ring gear retaining bolts and lockwashers, then the ring gear, using soft faced hammer
to tap gear from case.
Do not pry gear from case
as machined surfaces will be damaged.
3. Scribe matching mark between differential case halves, then separate cover from case.
4. Remove differential pinion, pinion yoke, side gears and thrust washers from case, noting
installation position for assembly.
5. Inspect components. Refer to Cleaning and Inspection, and replace as needed. See: 10 1/2 Inch
Ring Gear/Cleaning & Inspection
If components are to be reused, they must be installed in original position. Coat all components
with specified lubricant prior to installation.
6. Install differential pinions and thrust washers on yoke.
7. Install side gears and thrust washers in case halves, then position yoke and pinion assembly on
flanged case half.
8. Hold side gear into case cover and join case halves, ensuring that matching marks are aligned
and that gears are properly meshed.
9. Install ring gear, retaining bolts and lock washers, then evenly torque ring gear bolts to 110 ft.
lbs.
10. Install case side bearings, using suitable driver to seat bearings. Support case on suitable pilot
when installing second side bearing to prevent
damaging bearing already installed.
Case Disassembly
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Fig. 2 Eaton locking differential exploded view
1. Remove side bearings and ring gear as outlined for standard differential.
2. Remove 3 case retaining screws from ring gear mounting flange, then set unit on right case half,
Fig. 2.
3. Carefully pry case apart at yoke opening, hold side gear assembly in case, then remove left case
half.
4. Note installation position, then remove governor and latching bracket.
5. Remove thrust blocks, yoke and differential pinions, noting installation position for assembly.
6. Remove cam gear and disc assembly, shim and guide clips from right case half.
7. Remove side gear, disc pack and shim, and guide clips from left case half.
8. Clean and inspect all components, keeping components in order for proper assembly. Replace
any components that are damaged, distorted or excessively worn.
Due to critical tolerances required for proper operation, the differential case cannot be serviced
separately. If case is
defective, the entire differential assembly must be replaced. In addition, internal clearances are
such that shims, thrust blocks, side gears or cam gear thrust ring should not be replaced
unnecessarily, even if slight wear patterns are evident. If shims, thrust blocks, side gears or thrust
ring must be replaced, measurement and replacement procedures must be performed as outlined
in order to maintain critical assembly clearances.
Cam Gear Clutch Service
1. Measure and record overall length of cam gear assembly from front face of gear to back face of
thrust ring, including shim.
2. Compress disc pack and insert jaws of bearing separator J-22912 or equivalent between thrust
ring and top clutch disc with chamfer of separator facing thrust ring.
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Fig. 6 Cam Gear Thrust Ring Removal. Eaton Locking Differential
3. Support separator in press and press cam gear from thrust ring using suitable spacer, Fig. 3,
keeping components in order as cam gear is removed.
Fig. 4 Cam gear assembly exploded view. Eaton locking differential
4. Remove discs, spring and cam plate from gear,
Fig. 4, clean and inspect components and replace any that are damaged or excessively worn. Do
not replace cam gear and/or thrust ring unless necessary. If ring or gear is excessively worn or
scored, inspect bore in case. If case bore is scored, differential assembly must be replaced. If cam
gear or thrust ring is replaced, shim thickness must be selected to provide original assembly
dimension and proper differential pinion backlash.
5. Position cam gear with hub facing up and install cam plate with cam form down to mesh with
form on gear.
6. Assemble 2 eared discs and 1 disc with large splines on cam plate, starting with eared disc as
shown in Fig. 4, then install wave spring. If
components are reused, they must be installed in original position.
7. Assemble 4 eared discs and 3 splined discs on cam gear, starting with eared disc as shown in
Fig. 4.
8. Position cam gear assembly in press and install thrust ring on hub of gear, ensuring that ring is
square with hub.
9. Compress disc pack to prevent disc from being trapped, then press thrust ring onto cam gear
until ring is seated against shoulder of gear.
10. Inspect assembly and ensure that components are properly installed.
Side Gear (LH) Clutch Service
1. Remove guide clips and clutch discs from gear keeping components in order.
2. Clean and inspect components, and replace as needed. If side gear shim is defective, it must be
replaced with one of equal thickness. If side
gear is replaced, and/or if side gear shim thickness cannot be determined, perform Side Gear Shim
Selection procedure. Refer to Side Gear Shim Selection.
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Fig. 2 Eaton locking differential exploded view
3. Install eared and splined clutch discs on side gear, starting with eared disc as shown in Fig. 2. If
components are reused, they must be installed in
original position.
4. Install selected shim on side gear.
Cam Gear Shim Selection
If cam gear is replaced, or if original cam gear shim thickness cannot be determined, shim must be
selected to maintain proper backlash with differential pinions using following procedure.
1. Install 6 guide clips on cam gear clutch ears, then insert cam gear assembly into right case half.
Fig. 5 Cam/side gear installation for assembly clearance measurement. Eaton locking differential
2. Clamp cam gear assembly securely in case pocket using suitable bolt, nut and washers as
shown in Fig. 5.
3. Install all 3 differential pinions and thrust washers on yoke and firmly seat pinion and yoke
assembly in case, tapping assembly with suitable hammer.
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4. Slightly loosen bolt clamping cam gear into case and index one pinion gear tooth so that it points
downward, perpendicular to parting line of case, then retighten cam gear clamping bolt.
5. Mount suitable dial indicator on case with plunger contact bearing against tooth indexed in step
4.
6. Firmly hold pinion into seat, rock pinion back and forth against cam gear and record backlash
reading from dial indicator, Fig. 6.
7. Repeat steps 4 through 6 with each remaining pinion, then select cam gear shim that will provide
.010-.018 inch backlash between all pinions and cam gear.
When cam gear and/or shim is replaced, thrust blocks must be measured and selected to maintain
proper clearance during
assembly.
Side Gear Shim Selection
If side gear is replaced, or if original shim thickness cannot be measured, select proper side gear
shim thickness by measuring backlash between side gear and differential pinions. Follow
procedure for Cam Gear Shim Selection, using fully assembled side gear installed in left case half.
Refer to
Cam
Gear Shim Selection. See: 10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Cam Gear Shim
Selection
Select a shim that will provide .002-.010 inch backlash between side gear and differential pinions. If
side gear and/or shim is replaced, refer to ``Thrust Block Selection'' during case assembly in order
to install thrust block that will maintain proper assembly clearances.
Thrust Block Selection
If cam gear, side gear and/or shims are replaced, or if thrust blocks must be replaced and original
dimension cannot be determined, use following procedure during case assembly to determine
proper thrust block size.
1. Secure fully assembled cam gear and side gear assemblies into respective case halves as
outlined in shim selection procedure. Refer to Cam Gear
Shim Selection. See: 10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Cam Gear Shim Selection
2. Using suitable gauge block and depth gauge, measure distance from each gear face to case
mounting surface,
Fig. 7, and record dimension.
3. Add together cam gear and side gear depth measurements to obtain side gear spread. When
adding dimensions measured in step 2, be sure to
subtract thickness of gauge block from each measurement.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8306
4. Select 2 thrust blocks with the combined thickness of zero to .006 inch less than side gear
spread measurement, measuring thrust blocks as shown, Fig. 8. Original thrust blocks can be used
if they are undamaged and will provide the specified zero to .006 inch clearance. In addition, left
side gear can be reshimmed to provide proper thrust block clearance as long as specified
.002-.006 inch backlash is maintained between side gear and differential pinions.
Differential Case Assembly
Coat components with specified axle lubricant during assembly. If components are reused, they
should be installed in original position.
1. Install 6 guide clips on ears of cam gear disc pack, using grease to retain clips.
2. Install cam gear assembly along with selected shim into right case half.
If cam gear thrust ring was replaced, measure length of assembly from
front face of cam gear to rear face of thrust ring, including shim. Select a shim that will provide a
measurement as close to measurement made during disassembly as possible.
3. Install selected right side thrust block on cam gear face with button side of block facing up. If
cam or side gears or thrust block was replaced,
select thrust block thickness. Refer to Thrust Block Selection. Improper thrust block clearance will
result in differential malfunction.
4. Assemble differential pinions and thrust washers on yoke, index yoke to proper position, then
install yoke in right side of case.
5. Ensure that yoke is centered over thrust block button and seat yoke in housing by tapping lightly
with hammer.
6. Install left side thrust block, ensuring that thrust block button is seated in yoke. Ensure that thrust
block is of proper thickness. Refer to
Thrust
Block Selection. See: 10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear/Overhaul/Eaton Locking/Thrust Block Selection
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8307
Fig. 2 Eaton locking differential exploded view
7. Install governor and latching bracket in respective positions, Fig. 2, and position straight end of
latching bracket spring over and to the outside of
governor shaft to preload bracket against governor.
8. Install 6 guide clips on ears of side gear disc pack using grease to retain clips.
9. Install selected shim in left case half.
10. Carefully remove disc pack from side gear and lower assembly into right case half, ensuring
that guide clips are properly positioned.
11. Insert side gear through disc pack into left case half, rotating gear as needed to align splines.
12. Hold side gear into case, then lower left case assembly onto right case half, ensuring that bores
for governor and latching bracket shafts are properly aligned.
13. Invert assembly taking care not to dislodge internal components, then install 3 retaining screws.
14. Mount axle shaft in vise with spline protruding enough to engage side gear.
15. Install case assembly over axle shaft and rotate case to check operation. Assembly should
rotate smoothly, without binding or locking-up.
16. Install ring gear and side bearings as outlined for standard differential. Refer to Corporate Standard. See: 10 1/2 Inch Ring
Gear/Overhaul/Corporate - Standard
Axle Disassembly
1. Drain lubricant from axle housing and remove axle shafts.
2. Disconnect propeller shaft from companion flange, tape bearing caps to universal joint spider
and secure shaft aside.
3. Remove bolts securing carrier to axle housing and the lockwashers, support carrier and remove
carrier assembly from axle housing.
4. Mount carrier assembly in suitable holding fixture.
5. Loosen ring gear thrust pad locknut and remove thrust pad.
6. Remove side bearing adjuster locks, bearing cap bolts and lock washers.
7. Mark position of bearing caps for assembly, then remove bearing caps by tapping cap bosses
with soft faced hammer. Do not pry caps from
carrier as they may be damaged. Keep all components in order to aid assembly.
8. Remove differential case assembly from case, along with side bearing outer races, and place
races with respective bearing caps.
9. Remove bolts securing pinion bearing housing to carrier, then separate pinion housing from
carrier by tapping with soft faced hammer.
10. Inspect components as outlined and replace as needed. Keep all components in order so that
any component to be reused can be installed in
original position.
Differential Service
DIFFERENTIAL, DISASSEMBLE
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8308
1. Mark differential case halves for proper assembly.
2. Remove bolts holding case and cover together. Ring gear is mounted on case.
3. Separate cover from case and remove differential side gears and thrust washers, pinion gears
and thrust washers, and differential spider.
INSPECTION
1. Thoroughly wash all parts in suitable solvent.
2. Inspect ring gear for chipped, scored, or worn teeth.
3. Check radial clearance between differential side gears and differential case and the fit of
differential pinions on spider.
4. Inspect spider arms for wear or distortion.
5. Inspect teeth and splines of differential pinions and side gears for chipping or excessive wear.
6. Check thrust washers for wear, replacing if any signs of wear are evident.
7. Check differential side bearings and cups for broken races, discoloration, or roughness.
8. Inspect differential case for cracks or distortion.
RING GEAR, REPLACE
1. Remove ring gear from case by tapping rear of gear with soft faced hammer.
2. Inspect ring gear pilot case flange and rear of ring gear for dirt or burrs.
3. Fabricate two guide pins by cutting heads off of suitable cap screws and slotting ends.
4. Install guide pins to new gear diametrically opposite each other.
5. Start guide pins through case flange and tap ring gear onto case.
DIFFERENTIAL BEARING, REPLACE
1. Install tool J-8107 or equivalent, ensuring that tool legs are securely fitted in notches in case,
and tighten retaining yokes.
2. Tighten puller screw to remove bearing.
3. Position new bearing on hub with thick side of inner race facing case and install bearing using
tool J-1488 or equivalent.
Side bearing tool is
counterbored and has pilot to assure proper installation and seating of bearing.
DIFFERENTIAL, ASSEMBLE
1. Lubricate differential side gears, pinions, and thrust washers with suitable lubricant.
2. Place differential pinions and thrust washers on spider.
3. Assemble side gears, pinions, and thrust washers to left half of differential case.
4. Assemble case halves, ensuring that marks made during disassembly are aligned.
5. Install differential to ring bolts and lockwashers and tighten evenly until ring gear is flush with
case flange.
6. Remove two guide pins and install remaining bolts, then torque all bolts alternately and evenly to
105 ft. lbs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8309
Differential Carrier: Service and Repair Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Disassembly
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Dana Rear Drive Axle w/10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8310
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Dana Front & Rear Drive Axle w/9 3/4 Inch Ring Gear.
1. Remove axle shafts. Refer to Axle Shaft, Conventional Fixed/Floating / Service and Repair. See:
Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints/Axle Shaft
Assembly/Service and Repair
2. Remove plug and drain lubricant from carrier. 3. Remove carrier cover attaching screws, then
the cover and gasket, Figs. 1 and 2. 4. Mark one side of carrier and matching bearing cap for
assembly reference, then remove the bearing caps.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8311
Fig. 3 Differential Carrier Spreading.
5. Spread carrier a maximum of 0.015 inch using differential carrier spreader tool No. J-24385 or
equivalent and a suitable dial indicator, Fig. 3. 6. Remove dial indicator, then lift differential case
from carrier using a suitable prybar. Measure and record dimensions and note location of side
bearing shims for assembly reference, then remove spreader tool.
7. Measure pinion rotating torque with suitable torque wrench. If no preload is present, shake
companion flange to check for looseness of pinion
assembly. If pinion assembly is loose, the bearing must be replaced.
Fig. 4 Companion Flange Removal.
8. Install holder tool No. J-8614-11 or equivalent on flange using two bolts and flat washers.
Position tool with four notches toward flange, then
remove and discard pinion nut and washer.
9. Remove companion flange using tools shown in Fig. 4.
10. Remove drive pinion from carrier, tapping with a soft-faced hammer, if necessary. 11. Tap on
inner race of outer pinion bearing, using a long drift, and remove pinion oil seal, slinger, gasket,
outer pinion cone and roller and shim
pack. Mark and retain shim pack for assembly.
12. If necessary, drive pinion bearing cups out of carrier, then remove shims and oil slinger from
behind inner bearing cup. Mark shims and retain for
assembling.
13. Inspect components. Refer to Cleaning & Inspection and replace as necessary. See: Cleaning
& Inspection
9 3/4 Inch Ring Gear
1. Place differential assembly with pinion into housing. 2. Install bearing caps in proper position and
tighten just enough to retain in place. 3. Install dial indicator on carrier with indicator button
contacting back of ring gear. 4. Position two screwdrivers between bearing cup and housing on ring
gear side of case and pry ring gear into mesh with pinion gear as far as
possible.
5. Set dial indicator to 0 with force still applied to gears. 6. Reposition screwdrivers on opposite
side of ring gear, then pry ring gear as far as possible and note indicator reading. Repeat sequence
several
times until same reading is obtained. This reading indicates amount of shims necessary between
differential case and differential bearing on ring
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8312
gear side.
7. Remove differential bearing from ring gear side, then install proper amount of shims and
reassemble bearing. 8. Remove differential bearing from opposite side of ring gear. Subtract size of
shim pack installed on ring gear side of case from reading obtained in
step 11 of Overhaul procedure. Refer to Overhaul. See: Overhaul Add an additional 0.015 inch to
this figure to compensate for preload and backlash.
9. Assemble proper amount of shims as indicated in step 8, then install side bearing.
Fig. 3 Differential Carrier Spreading.
10. Spread differential carrier, Fig. 3, then install differential bearing outer races and position
differential case into carrier. 11. Install differential bearing caps and tighten cap screws finger tight.
12. Rotate differential assembly and tap case with a soft-faced hammer to seat case in carrier. 13.
Remove spreader tool and torque cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs. 14. Install dial indicator and check ring
gear backlash at four equidistant points on the ring gear. Backlash must measure 0.004-0.009 inch
and must
not vary more than 0.002 inch between checking points. If backlash is not within specifications,
adjust differential bearing shim pack as necessary.
15. Ensure ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coast face of each tooth
with suitable marking compound. 16. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring
gear one complete revolution in each direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot
be obtained unless gears are "loaded" when rotated.
Fig. 6 Gear Tooth Contact Pattern Check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8313
17. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to Fig. 6, and correct assembly adjustments as
needed. 18. Install housing covers, using a new gasket, and torque attaching bolts to 35 ft. lbs. 19.
Install rear universal joint, on rear drive axles, then the axle shafts. 20. Fill axle with specified
lubricant.
10 1/2 and 11 Inch Ring Gear
1. Install differential case with side bearings and cups in position, into carrier. 2. Place the smallest
of original shims between bearing cup and carrier on ring gear side of case. This shim will act as a
gauging shim. 3. Install bearing caps in proper position and tighten just enough to retain in place. 4.
Install a dial indicator on ring gear side of carrier with indicator button contacting back of ring gear.
5. Position two screwdrivers between bearing cup and housing on side opposite ring gear. 6. Apply
force to screwdrivers to move differential case as far as possible toward the indicator. 7. Set dial
indicator to 0 with force still applied to screwdrivers. 8. Reposition screwdrivers on ring gear side of
case, then force ring gear into mesh with drive pinion and note dial indicator reading. Repeat
sequence several times until same reading is obtained. Add this reading to "gauging" shim
thickness to determine shim required on ring gear side of case.
9. Remove "gauging shim and install correct thickness shim between bearing cup and carrier on
ring gear side of case.
10. To determine correct dimension for remaining shim, subtract size of shim already installed from
reading obtained in step 10 of Overhaul
procedure. Refer to Overhaul. See: Overhaul On 10 1/2 inch axles, add an 0.006 inch to this figure
to compensate for preload and backlash, on 11 inch, add 0.010 inch.
Fig. 3 Differential Carrier Spreading.
11. Spread differential carrier, Fig. 3, then install shim between bearing cup and carrier. 12.
Remove spreader tool and dial indicator, then install bearing caps and torque cap bolts to 85 ft. lbs.
13. Install dial indicator and check ring gear backlash at four equidistant points on the ring gear.
Backlash must measure 0.004-0.009 inch and must
not vary more than 0.002 inch between checking points. If backlash is not within specifications,
adjust differential bearing shim pack as necessary. If backlash is less than specifications, decrease
shim on ring gear side and increase shim on opposite side an equal amount. If backlash exceeds
specifications, increase shim on ring gear side and decrease shim on opposite side an equal
amount.
14. Ensure ring gear teeth are clean and free from oil, then coat drive and coast face of each tooth
with suitable marking compound. 15. Apply braking force to ring gear, then turn pinion to rotate ring
gear one complete revolution in each direction. Accurate contact pattern cannot
be obtained unless gears are "loaded when rotated.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8314
Fig. 6 Gear Tooth Contact Pattern Check.
16. Examine gear tooth contact pattern, referring to Fig. 6, and correct assembly adjustments as
needed. 17. Install housing cover, using a new gasket, and torque attaching bolts to 35 ft. lbs. 18.
Install rear universal joint, then the axle shafts. 19. Fill axle with specified lubricant.
Cleaning & Inspection
1. Clean components in suitable solvent and blow dry with compressed air, noting the following:
a. Do not use brush when cleaning bearings. b. Do not ``spin dry'' bearings as bearings will be
damaged. c. Lightly lubricate components after cleaning to retard corrosion. d. Keep all
components in order to ensure proper assembly.
2. Inspect gears for cracks, chipped or broken teeth, wear and scoring. Replace gears that are
damaged or excessively worn.
3. Inspect differential case for cracks, damage, distortion, worn side gear bores and scored bearing
surfaces, and replace as needed.
4. Inspect housing for scored bearing mount surfaces, cracks and distortion, and replace as
needed. Ensure that housing is clean and free from foreign material.
5. Inspect bearing rollers and races for pitting, scoring, overheating and damage.
6. Mate each bearing with race and check operation.
7. Replace any bearing assembly that is damaged, excessively worn, or that fails to operate
smoothly.
8. Mount differential case along with side bearings and ring gear in housing, adjust side bearings to
zero preload and check ring gear runout with dial indicator bearing against machined edge of gear.
9 3/4 Inch Ring Gear
1. Remove differential bearing cups and tag for assembly reference. 2. Secure differential in a
suitable vise and drive out pinion shaft lockpin. 3. Remove differential bearing cone and roller using
a suitable puller and plug tool No. J-8107-3 or equivalent. Tag cone and rollers for assembly
reference.
4. Remove spacer, pinion shaft, pinions, side gears and thrust washers from differential case. 5.
Remove ring gear attaching bolts and the ring gear. 6. Position differential side gears and new
thrust washers in differential case. 7. Position differential pinions and new thrust washers in
differential case. 8. Install pinion shaft in case, then align hole in shaft with hole in case and drive
lockpin into position. Peen hole to prevent pin from falling from
case.
9. Install ring gear and torque bolts alternately and evenly to 110 ft. lbs.
10. Position side bearings onto case and seat bearings using a suitable driver. 11. Determine total
amount of shims needed to set backlash as follows:
a. Place differential case in carrier and install bearing caps in original position. Tighten caps just
enough to retain in place.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8315
b. Install dial indicator on carrier with indicator button contacting back surface of ring gear. c.
Rotate differential case and note runout. If runout exceeds 0.002 inch, remove differential case and
the ring gear from case. d. Reinstall case and check runout at case flange. If runout exceeds 0.002
inch, the bearing or differential case is defective and corrections should
be made before proceeding.
e. Position two screwdrivers between bearing cup and ring gear on opposite side of ring gear.
Apply force to screwdrivers to move differential
case as far as possible toward dial indicator. Rock the ring gear to seat bearings and, with force
still applied, set dial indicator to "0".
f. Reposition screwdrivers between bearing cup and carrier on ring gear side. Apply force to
screwdrivers to move differential case as far as possible toward center of carrier and note indicator
readings.
g. Remove differential case from carrier.
10 1/2 and 11 Inch Ring Gear
1. Remove differential side bearings using a suitable puller or press.
2. Remove ring gear attaching bolts and the ring gear.
3. Scribe an alignment mark on both case halves, then remove bolts holding case halves together.
4. Tap top half of case loose from bottom, then remove top half and all internal components.
5. Position new washers on side gears, using a small amount of lubricant on side gear hubs.
6. Install pinion gears and new washers onto cross shaft.
7. Assemble top half of case to bottom half, using alignment marks made during disassembly.
Tighten bolts alternately and evenly.
8. Install ring gear and torque bolts alternately in stages to 110 ft. lbs on 10-1/2 inch axles, 220 ft.
lbs. on 11 inch.
9. Position side bearings onto case and seat bearings using a suitable driver. When installing
second bearing, support case with suitable pilot to prevent damaging case of opposite bearing.
10. Determine side bearing shim requirements as follows: a.
Place bearing cups over side bearings and install differential case into carrier, with pinion removed
from carrier.
b. Position original shim in ring gear side, then install bearing caps and tighten just enough to retain
in place.
c. Install a dial indicator on carrier with indicator button contacting back surface of ring gear.
d. Position two screwdrivers between bearing shim and carrier on ring gear side of case. Apply
force to screwdrivers to move differential case as far as possible away from dial indicator. With
force still applied, set dial indicator to 0.
e. Reposition screwdrivers on opposite side of differential case and force differential case back
toward dial indicator. Repeat sequence several times until same reading is obtained.
f. Add thickness of shim to dial indicator reading and record the result.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8316
Differential Carrier: Service and Repair Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Disassembly
1. Drain lubricant from axle housing and remove axle shaft retaining nuts and lockwashers.
2. Rap each axle shaft sharply in center of flange, remove tapered dowels, then withdraw axle
shafts. Do not pry axle shaft from hub. Rapping
flange sharply should release tapered dowels locating flange and allow axle to be removed.
3. Disconnect propeller shaft from companion flange and secure shaft aside.
4. Remove all nuts securing carrier to housing except top two, loosen top two nuts and break
carrier free from housing by tapping with soft faced hammer.
5. Support carrier with suitable jack, remove top two retaining nuts and withdraw carrier assembly
from housing. Small pry bar may be used to aid
carrier removal, but end of bar must be suitably rounded to prevent damage to mounting flange.
6. Mount carrier assembly in suitable holding fixture and check ring gear and pinion backlash to aid
assembly. If original ring gear and pinion are
to be reused, backlash should be set to clearance measured in step 6 to maintain tooth contact
pattern.
7. Loosen jam nut and back-off ring gear thrust adjusting screw.
8. Center punch one carrier leg, bearing cap and side bearing race to identify component location
for assembly.
Keep all components in order
during disassembly. Components that are to be reused must be installed in original position.
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Timken/Rockwell Drive Axle With 12 inch Ring Gear
9. Remove differential bearing adjusting nut locks, bearing caps and adjusting nuts, Fig. 1.
10. Lift differential case assembly from carrier.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8317
11. Hold companion flange with suitable tool, then remove pinion nut and washer.
12. Remove companion flange using suitable puller.
Fig. 2 Pinion, Cage & Bearing Assembly Removal
13. Remove pinion cage and bearing assembly, along with shims, using suitable puller bolts to free
assembly from housing, Fig. 2, and retain shim
pack to aid assembly.
14. Clean and inspect components. Refer to
Cleaning and Inspection and replace as needed. See: Cleaning and Inspection
Drive Pinion Installation
1. Using micrometer or vernier gauge, measure and record thickness of original shim pack. 2.
Check P.C. number on original pinion. If number is positive, subtract it from original shim pack
thickness. If number is negative, add it to original
shim pack thickness. Record resulting value.
3. Check P.C. number on new pinion. If number is positive, add it to value obtained in step 2. If
number is negative, subtract it from value obtained
in step 2.
4. Figure obtained in step 3 indicates thickness of new shim pack to be used. 5. Position correct
shim pack between pinion cage and carrier.
Use a minimum of three shims per pack. If pack is made up from various
thicknesses of shims, place thinnest shims on either side of pack.
6. Install pinion and cage assembly with shims into carrier and tap into position with soft mallet. 7.
Install pinion cage cap screws,
torquing to 35 ft. lbs.
Differential Case Installation
1. Temporarily install bearing cups, threaded adjusting rings if used, and bearing caps, torquing
cap screws to 115-140 ft. lbs.
2. If bearing cups are not of a hand push fit in bores, bores must be reworked with a scraper or
emery cloth until a hand push fit is obtained. Use a blued bearing cup as a gauge and check the fits
as work progresses. When cups fit properly, remove bearing caps.
3. After checking related parts, coat differential bearing cones and caps with rear axle lubricant.
4. Place cups over assembled bearing cones and position differential assembly in carrier.
5. Insert bearing adjusting nuts and turn hand-tight against bearing cups.
6. Install bearing caps in correct location as marked and tap lightly in position. If bearing caps
cannot be properly seated bearing adjusters may
be cross-threaded. Remove bearing caps and reposition adjusting nuts as needed. Do not force
bearing caps into position as carrier, caps and adjusting nuts will be damaged.
7. Install bearing cap bolts or nuts and washers, if used, then
torque fasteners to 115-140 ft. lbs.
Side Bearing Preload & Backlash
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8318
Fig. 8 Side Bearing Preload Adjustment
Fig. 9 Ring Gear & Pinion Backlash Adjustment
1. Using dial indicator at back face of ring gear,
Fig. 8, loosen bearing adjusting nut on side opposite gear only enough to notice endplay on dial
indicator.
2. Tighten same adjusting nut only enough to obtain zero endplay.
3. Check gear for runout. If runout exceeds .008 inch, remove differential and check for cause.
4. Tighten adjusting nuts one notch each from zero endplay to preload differential bearings.
5. Mount dial indicator with plunger contact bearing against ring gear tooth, Fig. 9.
6. Hold pinion and rock ring gear, reading backlash from dial indicator.
7. If backlash is not within specifications, adjust as follows. If ring gear and pinion are reused, lash
should be adjusted to value measured prior
to disassembly. a.
If backlash is greater than specified, loosen nut in ring gear tooth side and tighten opposite nut an
equal amount.
b. If backlash is less than specified, loosen nut on back side of ring gear and tighten nut on gear
face side an equal amount. Adjusting nuts
must be rotated equally, in opposite directions, in order to maintain proper side bearing preload.
8. Install adjuster locks to secure adjustment.
Gear Tooth Contact Inspection
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Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8319
Fig. 10 Gear Tooth Contact Inspection
1. Ensure that ring gear is clean and free from oil, then coat coast and drive face of each ring gear
tooth with suitable marking compound.
2. Brake ring gear to load gears, then turn pinion in order to rotate ring gear one full revolution in
each direction.
Satisfactory contact pattern
cannot be obtained unless gears are loaded. Excessive rotation of gears is not recommended.
3. Inspect tooth contact pattern referring to Fig. 10, and correct assembly adjustments, as needed
to obtain correct pattern.
4. Clean marking compound from gears.
Thrust Screw
1. Remove carrier from stand and position with back face of hypoid or spiral bevel gear upward.
2. Remove thrust screw and locknut.
3. Install thrust screw and locknut and tighten thrust screw enough to locate thrust block firmly
against back face of hypoid gear.
4. Loosen thrust screw 1/4 turn and lock securely with nut.
5. Check to ensure minimum clearance of .10 inch during full rotation of bevel gear.
Carrier Installation
1. Ensure that housing is clean and free from dirt and foreign material.
2. Inspect housing for damage and distortion, and repair or replace as needed. Remove burrs from
machined surfaces using suitable stone or file.
3. Install new gasket over housing studs. If RTV sealer is used, ensure that both mating surfaces
are clean and free from oil, then apply a
continuous bead of sealer, 1/8 inch wide, completely around one mating surface, circling all bolt
holes or studs.
4. Raise carrier assembly with suitable jack, roll assembly onto studs, then install four evenly
spaced flat washers and nuts to hold assembly.
5. Install nuts and lock washers on any studs shrouded by housing webs, then evenly tighten 4
evenly spaced nuts to draw carrier into housing. Do
not drive carrier into housing by tapping flange as flange will be distorted.
6. Install lock washers under all retaining nuts, then evenly tighten all nuts.
7. Install axle shafts and connect driveshaft to companion flange.
8. Fill housing with specified lubricant.
Cleaning and Inspection
Steam cleaning assembled drive units after they have been removed from housing is not
recommended. It is necessary to completely disassemble drive unit for proper cleaning. Clean all
components in suitable solvent and dry immediately afterward. Use soft, clean, lintless paper
towels or wiping rags free of abrasive material. Bearings should never be dried by spinning with
compressed air. Inspect all bearings, cups, and cones, including those not removed from parts of
drive unit, and replace if rollers or cups are worn, pitted, or damaged
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8320
in any way. Remove parts needing replacement with suitable puller or in a press with sleeves.
Avoid the use of drifts and hammers as they may easily mutilate or distort component parts.
Ring gear and pinion are a matched set and must be replaced as an assembly. Both ring gear and
pinion in a replacement set have a matching
mark such as ``M29'' or a similar letter/number combination. On the ring gear, matching numbers
can be found on the front face of the gear or on the machined outer diameter. On the pinion,
matching marks are usually found on the pinion face. However, on pinions with parallel sided
splines, the number may be marked on the top flat or one of the splines. Do not install a ring gear
and pinion assembly if the matching marks are not the same.
Fig. 6 Pinion Code & Matching Mark Identification
Fig. 7 Pinion Shim Pack Thickness Chart
In addition, each pinion has a Pinion Code (P.C.) Variation Number which indicates variations in
thousandths of an inch from the nominal pinion depth setting. This number must be used to modify
the Nominal Pinion Gauging Number when calculating shim pack thickness to set pinion depth.
This variation number is stamped as either a plus (+) or minus (-) value, and is located adjacent to
the matching number,
Fig. 6.
When a new pinion is installed, shim pack thickness can be determined using the pinion code
numbers and chart, Fig. 7.
Overhaul
DISASSEMBLE
1. If original matching marks are not clear, scribe matching marks between differential case halves
to aid assembling. 2. Remove differential case bolts, noting position for assembling, then separate
case halves. 3. Remove differential pinion spider, along with pinions and thrust washers, keeping
components in order. 4. Remove side gear and thrust washer from each case half. 5. Remove case
side bearings, as needed, using suitable puller. 6. If ring gear is to be replaced, proceed as follows:
a. Carefully center punch center of each rivet head.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8321
Fig. 3 Ring Rear Removal.
b. Using drill 1/32 inch smaller than body of rivet, drill completely through each rivet securing ring
gear, Fig. 3.
c. Press out rivets and remove ring gear.
7. Inspect components as outlined and replace as needed.
ASSEMBLE
1. Install ring gear as follows:
a. Immerse ring gear in water heated to 160-180°F. for approximately 10 minutes. b. Align gear
over case pilot and install ring gear on differential case.
Gear should not be driven or pressed onto case as metal particles may
become lodged between gear and case causing excessive runout.
c. Install new ring gear retaining bolts from service package and torque bolts to 85-115 ft. lbs.
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Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8322
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Timken/Rockwell Drive Axle With 12 inch Ring Gear
2. Install side gear and thrust washer in ring gear half of case, Fig. 1. Coat all components with
specified axle lubricant during assembling.
Components that are reused must be installed in original position.
3. Mount differential pinions and thrust washers on spider and install assembly in ring half of case,
ensuring that spider is fully seated.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Carrier > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Borg Warner > Page 8323
Fig. 4 Differential Case Assembly.
4. Position side gear and thrust washer on pinion assembly, align matching marks, then install
remaining case half, Fig. 4.
5. Install 4 case retaining bolts, evenly spaced, and draw case halves together by tightening bolts
evenly and alternately. 6. Install remaining case bolts and
torque all bolts to 45 ft. lbs.
7. Press side bearings onto case using suitable spacer and pilot. 8. Check rolling resistance of side
gear and pinion assemblies as follows:
Fig. 5 Differential Rolling Resistance Check.
a. Fabricate checking tool by cutting splines from axle shaft and welding nut onto non-splined end,
Fig. 5.
b. Mount case assembly inside taking care not to damage components. c. Insert stub axle into side
gear and rotate assembly with suitable torque wrench. d. If rolling resistance exceeds 50 ft. lbs.
when rotating one side gear, recheck differential assembly and correct as needed.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle Vent Leak
Differential Case: Customer Interest Rear Axle - Vent Leak
File In Section: 4 - Drive Axle
Bulletin No.: 56-42-03A
Date: November, 1996
Subject: Rear Axle Vent Leak (Relocate Rear Axle Vent Tube)
Models: 1993-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 2, 3 Models with 10.5" Rear Axles
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1996 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 56-42-03 (Section 4 - Drive Axle)
Condition
Some owners may comment about an oil soaked load floor or oil leaking from the rear axle vent.
Correction
Following the instructions given below, relocate the rear axle vent tube to the axle tube.
Service Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.
2. Disconnect the vent hose from the vent tube and remove the vent tube.
3. Plug the existing vent hole with weld bond epoxy such as J.B. Weld or equivalent following the
manufacturer's instructions.
4. Remove the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the appropriate
year Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle Vent Leak > Page 8332
5. Locate the shock mount bracket on the driver's side axle tube (Figure 1). At the top of the axle
tube, parallel to the center of the shock bracket, drill a 3/8" hole in the axle tube.
Notice:
Precaution should be taken to ensure that no metal fragments enter the axle tube. Use a magnet
when drilling to lift and catch the metal filings. Apply wheel bearing grease to the drill bit before
breaking through the axle tube.
6. Using a 12 mm socket, drive a new vent tube (P/N 14072930) into the axle tube at the location
drilled in step 5. Seal the base of the vent tube with RTV sealant (P/N 12345739).
7. Use an extendable magnet tool to capture any metal fragments that may have fallen into the axle
tube and then re-install the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the
appropriate year Service Manual.
8. Cut approximately 8.5" (216 mm) off the existing vent hose and discard after verifying that
enough vent hose will remain to allow for axle movement. Clamp the remaining hose onto the new
axle vent tube installed in step 7.
9. Check the rear axle fluid level. Add fluid if necessary (P/N 1052271 80W-90 GL-5).
10. Lower the vehicle and test drive.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14072930 Vent Tube 1
12345739 RTV Sealant As Required
1052271 Rear Axle As Required
Lubricating Oil
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 > Rear Axle Vent Leak > Page 8333
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
F3270 Rear Vent Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
F1531 Left Axle Shaft R&R; Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 >
Rear Axle - Vent Leak
Differential Case: All Technical Service Bulletins Rear Axle - Vent Leak
File In Section: 4 - Drive Axle
Bulletin No.: 56-42-03A
Date: November, 1996
Subject: Rear Axle Vent Leak (Relocate Rear Axle Vent Tube)
Models: 1993-96 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 2, 3 Models with 10.5" Rear Axles
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1996 model year. Please discard Corporate Bulletin
Number 56-42-03 (Section 4 - Drive Axle)
Condition
Some owners may comment about an oil soaked load floor or oil leaking from the rear axle vent.
Correction
Following the instructions given below, relocate the rear axle vent tube to the axle tube.
Service Procedure
1. Raise the vehicle and support with suitable safety stands.
2. Disconnect the vent hose from the vent tube and remove the vent tube.
3. Plug the existing vent hole with weld bond epoxy such as J.B. Weld or equivalent following the
manufacturer's instructions.
4. Remove the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the appropriate
year Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 >
Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 8339
5. Locate the shock mount bracket on the driver's side axle tube (Figure 1). At the top of the axle
tube, parallel to the center of the shock bracket, drill a 3/8" hole in the axle tube.
Notice:
Precaution should be taken to ensure that no metal fragments enter the axle tube. Use a magnet
when drilling to lift and catch the metal filings. Apply wheel bearing grease to the drill bit before
breaking through the axle tube.
6. Using a 12 mm socket, drive a new vent tube (P/N 14072930) into the axle tube at the location
drilled in step 5. Seal the base of the vent tube with RTV sealant (P/N 12345739).
7. Use an extendable magnet tool to capture any metal fragments that may have fallen into the axle
tube and then re-install the driver's side axle shaft following the procedure in Section 4B1 of the
appropriate year Service Manual.
8. Cut approximately 8.5" (216 mm) off the existing vent hose and discard after verifying that
enough vent hose will remain to allow for axle movement. Clamp the remaining hose onto the new
axle vent tube installed in step 7.
9. Check the rear axle fluid level. Add fluid if necessary (P/N 1052271 80W-90 GL-5).
10. Lower the vehicle and test drive.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
14072930 Vent Tube 1
12345739 RTV Sealant As Required
1052271 Rear Axle As Required
Lubricating Oil
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Case > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Differential Case: > 564203A > Nov > 96 >
Rear Axle - Vent Leak > Page 8340
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
F3270 Rear Vent Replace Use Published Labor Operation Time
F1531 Left Axle Shaft R&R; Use Published Labor Operation Time
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Differential Axle Housing >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Differential Axle Housing: Service and Repair
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Axle Shaft & Housing Components
In this rear axle, Fig. 1, the rear axle housing and differential carrier are cast into an integral
assembly. The drive pinion assembly is mounted in two opposed tapered roller bearings. The
pinion bearings are preloaded by a spacer behind the front bearing. The pinion is positioned by a
washer between the head of the pinion and the rear bearing.
The differential is supported in the carrier by two tapered roller side bearings. These bearings are
preloaded by spacers located between the bearings and carrier housing. The differential assembly
is positioned for proper ring gear and pinion backlash by varying these spacers. The differential
case houses two side gears in mesh with two pinions mounted on a pinion shaft which is held in
place by a lockpin. The side gears and pinions are backed by thrust washers.
1. Raise and support vehicle. Using a suitable jack, support rear axle assembly. 2. Drain fluid from
axle assembly. 3. Mark driveshaft to flange, then disconnect driveshaft and tie driveshaft to side rail
or crossmember. 4. Tape bearing cups to prevent loss of the rollers. 5. Remove wheel and brake
drum or hub and drum assembly. 6. Disconnect parking brake cable from lever and brake flange
plate. 7. Disconnect and cap hydraulic brake lines from connectors. 8. Remove shock absorbers
from axle brackets. 9. Disconnect vent line from vent fitting.
10. Remove height sensing and brake proportional valve brackets. 11. Remove nuts and washers
from U-bolts. 12. Carefully remove U-bolts, spring plates and spacers from axle assembly. 13.
Lower axle assembly from vehicle. 14. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage
Fluid - Differential: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility &
Usage
File in Section: 04 - Driveline Axle
Bulletin No.: 99-04-20-001
Date: June, 1999
INFORMATION
Subject: Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility and Usage
Models: 1999 Cadillac Escalade 1988-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Van and P1-3 Series Models
Built after the VIN Breakpoints (C/K) listed.
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1999 Model Year, VIN Breakpoint information, and
additional text Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 86-42-04 (Section 4 - Driveline/Axle).
This bulletin is being issued to inform dealers about the compatibility and usage of the new Fuel
Efficient SAE 75W-90 Synthetic Axle Lubricant, GM P/N 12378261 (In Canada use P/N 10953455),
with current axles, and with the non-synthetic axle lubricant, GM P/N 1052271 (In Canada use P/N
10950849), for the rear axles on the above light-duty trucks.
Testing has shown that the new synthetic lubricant will chemically attack the Room Temperature
Vulcanizing (RTV) sealant. Use only the non-synthetic lubricant, P/N 1052271, in axles using RTV
sealant (See 9.5 and 10.5 information below).
American Axle and Manufacturing (A.A.M.) has approved the use of the new Fuel Efficient SAE
75W-90 synthetic axle lubricant for rear axles with the following restrictions:
^ All 8.6 inch axles are compatible as originally built.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 8348
^ 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to mid-February 1998 are NOT compatible because RTV
sealant is used on the cover pans.
On vehicles built after mid-February 1998 and equipped with 9.5 inch rear axles, synthetic
lubricant, P/N 12378261, can be used because the RTV was replaced with a gasket. Other
mid-February changes to the 9.5 inch rear axles include a new cover pan and cover pan fasteners
common to other axles.
Important:
The new cover pan is not retrofittable to the housing of 9.5 inch axles on vehicles built prior to
mid-February 1998. A new retrofit kit is available that will enable the use of synthetic lubricant for
vehicles built after mid-February, 1998.
^ All 10.5 inch axles prior to March 3, 1999 are compatible if the axle shaft hub seal (RTV) is
replaced with P/N 327739 gasket when changing to synthetic lubricant.
As a product improvement, this new lubricant has been released into 1999 current production C/K
vehicles built after the above VIN breakpoints (Except HD3SOO models which use 75W-140
synthetic lubricant, P/N 12346140).
It is recommended that synthetic lubricant be used when changing rear axle lubricant for the
following reasons:
^ Potential fuel economy
^ Lower operating temperature under severe usage conditions
Important:
^ You do not need to wash/rinse any non-synthetic lubricant from the axle cavity when changing
over to a synthetic lubricant. However, you should remove debris from the magnet and the bottom
of the axle cavity whenever the axle fluid is changed.
^ On light-duty trucks equipped with locking differentials, do NOT use a limited-slip additive.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 8349
Fluid - Differential: Technical Service Bulletins Drivetrain - Recommended Axle Lubricant
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 76-02-02A
Date: October, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Recommended Axle Lubricant
Models: 1999 and Prior Rear Wheel Drive Passenger Cars, Light and Medium Duty Trucks, and
Four Wheel Drive Vehicles
This bulletin is being revised to add the 1998 and 1999 Model Years and add Vehicle Line and
Recommended Axle Lubricant Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-02-02
(Section 0 - General Information).
The following tables provide the latest information on recommended axle lubricant.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Drivetrain - Rear Axle Lubricant Compatibility & Usage > Page 8350
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - Differential: Capacity Specifications
Chevrolet 8 1/2 inch .............................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 4.2 pts.
Chevrolet 9 1/2 inch .............................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 5.5 pts.
Dana 9 3/4 & 10 1/2 inch .....................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 5.5 pts.
Chevrolet 10 1/2 inch ...........................................................................................................................
..................................................................... 7.2 pts.
Dana 11 inch .......................................................................................................................................
........................................................................ 8.2 pts.
Rockwell 12 inch ..................................................................................................................................
.................................................................... 14.0 pts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Fluid - Differential > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 8353
Fluid - Differential: Fluid Type Specifications
Rear Axle - Locking Differential (G80)
This Article has been updated by TSB # 76-02-02A.
SAE 80W-90 GL5 Gear Lubricant, GM P/N 1052271. Do not use limited slip additive.
Rear Axle - Non-Locking Differential
Standard Differential (Non-Locking) SAE 80W-90 GL-5 Gear Lubricant GM P/N 1052271
HD-3500 Dana 11.0 inch Axle SAE 75W-140 Synthetic Gear lubricant GM P/N 12378261
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Pinion Bearing: Adjustments Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Fig. 5 Pinion setting chart
If original ring gear and pinion assembly are to be reused, measure original shim pack and build a
new shim pack to the same dimension. If baffle is in the axle assembly, it is considered part of the
shim pack. Ring gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets only. If a new gear is being used,
verify numbers on pinion and ring gear before proceeding with assembly. On the button end of the
pinion there is a ``+'', `` - '', or ``0'' number which indicates the best running position for each
particular gear set. This position is controlled by shims installed behind the inner bearing cup. If
baffles or oil slingers are used, they are considered part of the adjusting shim pack. If a new gear
set is being installed, note the plus or minus mark on both old and new pinions and adjust
thickness of shim pack to compensate for the difference between these two numbers. Refer to
chart, Fig. 5, when determining shim size.
1. Install inner shim pack and, on 9-3/4 inch ring gear axle, the oil slinger in inner or rear cup bore,
then drive cup into position using suitable tool.
2. Add or remove an equal amount to the outer shim pack as was added to the inner shim pack.
3. Drive outer cup into carrier bore, then press rear pinion bearing onto pinion shaft.
4. Install drive pinion and bearing into differential carrier.
5. Install shims and outer or front pinion bearing.
6. Install companion flange, then the washer and nut on pinion shaft. Torque nut to 250 ft. lbs. with
a suitable holding bar in place.
7. Remove holding bar, then measure rotating torque of pinion shaft. Rotating torque should
measure 10-20 inch lbs. with original bearings installed, or 20-40 inch lbs. with new bearings
installed, discounting torque required to start turning shaft.
8. If rotating torque is not within specifications, adjust shim pack as necessary. Increase outer shim
pack to reduce torque, or decrease shim pack to increase torque.
9. Remove nut, washer and companion flange from pinion shaft.
10. Install oil slinger, gasket (if equipped) and oil seal onto pinion shaft.
11. Install companion flange, washer and nut and torque nut to 250 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8358
Pinion Bearing: Adjustments Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Timken/Rockwell Drive Axle With 12 inch Ring Gear
DISASSEMBLY
1. Tap or press pinion from cage, taking care not to damage shaft threads, then remove outer
pinion bearing, Fig. 1.
2. Remove spacer from pinion, then the inner bearing, using suitable separator and press or puller.
3. If straddle bearing must be replaced, remove snap ring and washer, then the bearing, using
suitable puller.
4. If bearings are to be replaced, press outer races from bearing cage, taking care not to distort
cage.
5. Inspect components as outlined, and replace as needed, keeping components in order for
assembly.
ASSEMBLY & PRELOAD
1. When installing new cups, press them firmly against pinion bearing cage shoulders.
2. Lubricate bearings and cups with suitable lubricant.
3. Press rear thrust and radial bearings firmly against pinion shoulders, using suitable sleeve that
will bear only on bearing inner race.
4. Install radial bearing lock ring, then squeeze ring into pinion shaft groove.
5. Insert pinion and bearing assembly in pinion cage and position spacer or spacer combination
over pinion shaft.
6. Press front bearing firmly against spacer.
7. Rotate cage several revolutions to assure normal bearing contact.
8. Press flange or yoke against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut.
9. Place pinion and cage assembly over carrier studs, hold flange with suitable tool and torque
pinion shaft nut to 240 ft. lbs.
10. Check pinion bearing preload torque. If rotating torque is not within 5 to 15 pound inches,
disassemble, adjust spacer, reassemble, and recheck preload torque. Use thinner spacer to
increase or thicker spacer to decrease preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8359
11. Hold flange with suitable tool and remove pinion shaft nut and flange.
12. Lubricate pinion shaft oil seal and cover outer edge of seal body with non-hardening sealing
compound, then press seal against cover shoulder with suitable tool.
13. Install new gasket and bearing cover.
14. Press flange against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut, torquing nut to
240 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8360
Pinion Bearing: Adjustments Corporate and Eaton
7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing are replaced,
pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver. 2. Lubricate pinion
bearings and install bearings in races. 3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing, noting the following:
Fig. 16 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/7-1/2 inch ring gear
a. On models with 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-23597-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 16. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8361
Fig. 17 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/8-1/2 & 8-7/8 inch ring gear
b. On models with 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 17. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
c. Assemble gauge plate onto preload stud. d. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot and front bearing and pilot, then install retaining nut and tighten nut
until snug.
e. Rotate tool to ensure bearings are properly seated. f.
Hold preload stud and torque nut until 20 inch lbs. is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut in small
increments, checking rotating
torque after
each adjustment, to prevent damaging bearings.
g. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step for disc that corresponds to base of housing. h.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing, ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to
prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger. 5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution and secure to arbor mounting stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotating plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size. 7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button
while observing dial indicator. 8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection,
zero dial indicator.
Perform steps 7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero reading is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for a "nominal" pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification
of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths
from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number,
dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tools and pinion bearings from housing, noting installation position of
bearings.
PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install selected shim onto pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable
spacers.
2. Install new collapsible spacer onto pinion shaft, then insert pinion assembly into housing. 3.
Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing into housing and tap bearing over pinion shaft with
suitable drift while assistant holds pinion in
place.
Old pinion nut and suitable large washer can be used to seat front bearing on pinion, but care must
be taken not to collapse spacer
if this method is used.
4. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft yoke on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping yoke until several pinion
shaft threads protrude from yoke.
5. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut. 6. Hold
driveshaft yoke with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay
is reduced to zero. 7. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload using
suitable torque wrench.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8362
8. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified pinion bearing preload is
obtained, rotating pinion and checking preload after
each adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far,
requiring replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 9 Pinion depth gauge installation
PINION DEPTH, ADJUST
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing requires
replacement, pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver.
2. Lubricate pinion bearings and install bearings in races.
3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing noting the following.
Use gauge assembly J-21777-01, Fig. 9, or suitable equivalent. Follow all tool
manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge assembly.
a. Assemble gauge plate on preload stud. b. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot, then front bearing and pilot, install retaining nut and tighten nut
hand tight.
c. Rotate tool to ensure that bearings are properly seated. d. Hold preload stud and tighten nut until
20 inch lbs. torque is required to rotate stud.
Tighten nut in small increments, checking rotating
torque after each adjustment using suitable torque wrench.
e. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step that corresponds to base of housing. f.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing ensuring that side bearing discs are properly seated,
install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger.
5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution, then secure to arbor stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotate plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size.
7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button while observing dial indicator.
8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection, zero dial indicator. Perform steps
7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero setting is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for ``nominal'' pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus ( - ) number, subtract that many
thousandths from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus
number, dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tool and pinion bearings from housing.
DRIVE PINION, INSTALL
1. Install pinion bearing races in housing, if not previously installed, using suitable drivers to ensure
that races are squarely seated.
2. Install selected shim on pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8363
3. Install new collapsible spacer on pinion and insert pinion assembly into housing.
4. Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing in housing and tap bearing onto pinion shaft while
assistant holds pinion in place. Old pinion nut
and large washer can be used to draw front bearing onto pinion, but care must be taken not to
collapse spacer if this method is used.
5. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft flange on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping flange until several pinion shaft threads protrude.
6. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut and
adjust preload to specifications.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure pinion and bearings are properly installed, as outlined. 2. Hold driveshaft companion
flange with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay is
reduced to zero. 3. Using and inch lb. torque wrench, check pinion preload by rotating pinion with
wrench. Preload should be at 20-25 inch lbs. or less on new
bearings or 10-15 inch lbs. on used bearings.
4. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified bearing preload is obtained,
rotating pinion and checking preload after each
adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far, requiring
replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Pinion Bearing: Service and Repair Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
9 3/4 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 5 Pinion Setting Chart
If original ring gear and pinion assembly are to be reused, measure original shim pack and build a
new shim pack to the same dimension. If baffle is in the axle assembly, it is considered part of the
shim pack. Ring gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets only. If a new gear is being used,
verify numbers on pinion and ring gear before proceeding with assembly. On the button end of the
pinion there is a +, - , or 0 number which indicates the best running position for each particular gear
set. This position is controlled by shims installed behind the inner bearing cup. If baffles or oil
slingers are used, they are considered part of the adjusting shim pack. If a new gear set is being
installed, note the plus or minus mark on both old and new pinions and adjust thickness of shim
pack to compensate for the difference between these two numbers. Refer to chart, Fig. 5, when
determining shim size.
1. Install inner shim pack and, on 9-3/4 inch ring gear axle, the oil slinger in inner or rear cup bore,
then drive cup into position using suitable tool.
2. Add or remove an equal amount to the outer shim pack as was added to the inner shim pack.
3. Drive outer cup into carrier bore, then press rear pinion bearing onto pinion shaft.
4. Install drive pinion and bearing into differential carrier.
5. Install shims and outer or front pinion bearing.
6. Install companion flange, then the washer and nut on pinion shaft.
7. Measure rotating torque of pinion shaft. Rotating torque should measure 10-20 inch lbs. with
original bearings installed, or 20-40 inch lbs. with new bearings installed, discounting torque
required to start turning shaft.
8. If rotating torque is not within specifications, adjust shim pack as necessary. Increase outer shim
pack to reduce torque, or decrease shim pack to increase torque.
9. Remove nut, washer and companion flange from pinion shaft.
10. Install oil slinger, gasket (if equipped) and oil seal onto pinion shaft.
11. Install companion flange, washer and nut and torque as described is step 7.
Disassembly
Fig. 9 Drive Pinion Removal
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8366
Fig. 10 Pinion Straddle Bearing Removal
1. Clamp pinion assembly in vise taking care not to damage housing or gear.
2. Hold driveshaft flange with suitable tool, then remove pinion nut and washer.
3. Remove driveshaft flange from pinion shaft using suitable puller.
4. Support housing in press as shown in Fig. 9, and press pinion from housing. Do not allow pinion
to drop on floor.
5. Separate pinion flange, oil seal, front bearing and bearing retainer, driving seal from housing with
suitable drift.
6. Remove bearing races from housing using suitable drift and place front bearing race with
bearing.
7. Press rear bearing from pinion and place bearing with race.
8. Remove straddle bearing from axle housing using suitable drift, Fig. 10.
9. Inspect components keeping all components in order, and replace as needed.
Assembly & Preload
Coat components with specified lubricant during assembly. If components are reused, they should
be installed in original position.
1. Press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
2. Install front and rear bearing races in housing, using suitable drivers to ensure that races are
properly seated.
3. Install straddle bearing in axle housing using straddle bearing installer tool No. J-23322 or
equivalent to ensure that bearing is properly seated.
4. Insert pinion through housing, install new collapsible spacer and front bearing over pinion shaft,
support pinion and press front bearing onto shaft.
5. Lubricate lips of new seal with grease and install seal using suitable driver to seat seal against
shoulder of housing.
6. Install driveshaft companion flange, washer and new pinion nut.
7. Clamp housing in vise, hold flange with suitable tool and torque pinion nut just until all endplay is
removed.
8. Check pinion bearing preload (rotating torque) using suitable torque wrench.
9. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified preload is obtained, checking
preload after each adjustment. Exceeding specified preload will collapse spacer too far to be
reused. If preload specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure
must be repeated. Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce bearing preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8367
Pinion Bearing: Service and Repair Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Timken/Rockwell Drive Axle With 12 inch Ring Gear
DISASSEMBLY
1. Tap or press pinion from cage, taking care not to damage shaft threads, then remove outer
pinion bearing, Fig. 1.
2. Remove spacer from pinion, then the inner bearing, using suitable separator and press or puller.
3. If straddle bearing must be replaced, remove snap ring and washer, then the bearing, using
suitable puller.
4. If bearings are to be replaced, press outer races from bearing cage, taking care not to distort
cage.
5. Inspect components as outlined, and replace as needed, keeping components in order for
assembly.
ASSEMBLY & PRELOAD
1. When installing new cups, press them firmly against pinion bearing cage shoulders.
2. Lubricate bearings and cups with suitable lubricant.
3. Press rear thrust and radial bearings firmly against pinion shoulders, using suitable sleeve that
will bear only on bearing inner race.
4. Install radial bearing lock ring, then squeeze ring into pinion shaft groove.
5. Insert pinion and bearing assembly in pinion cage and position spacer or spacer combination
over pinion shaft.
6. Press front bearing firmly against spacer.
7. Rotate cage several revolutions to assure normal bearing contact.
8. Press flange or yoke against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut.
9. Place pinion and cage assembly over carrier studs, hold flange with suitable tool and torque
pinion shaft nut to 240 ft. lbs.
10. Check pinion bearing preload torque. If rotating torque is not within 5 to 15 pound inches,
disassemble, adjust spacer, reassemble, and recheck preload torque. Use thinner spacer to
increase or thicker spacer to decrease preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8368
11. Hold flange with suitable tool and remove pinion shaft nut and flange.
12. Lubricate pinion shaft oil seal and cover outer edge of seal body with non-hardening sealing
compound, then press seal against cover shoulder with suitable tool.
13. Install new gasket and bearing cover.
14. Press flange against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut, torquing nut to
240 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8369
Pinion Bearing: Service and Repair Corporate and Eaton
7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing are replaced,
pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver. 2. Lubricate pinion
bearings and install bearings in races. 3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing, noting the following:
Fig. 16 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/7-1/2 inch ring gear
a. On models with 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-23597-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 16. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8370
Fig. 17 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/8-1/2 & 8-7/8 inch ring gear
b. On models with 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 17. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
c. Assemble gauge plate onto preload stud. d. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot and front bearing and pilot, then install retaining nut and tighten nut
until snug.
e. Rotate tool to ensure bearings are properly seated. f.
Hold preload stud and torque nut until 20 inch lbs. is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut in small
increments, checking rotating
torque after
each adjustment, to prevent damaging bearings.
g. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step for disc that corresponds to base of housing. h.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing, ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to
prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger. 5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution and secure to arbor mounting stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotating plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size. 7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button
while observing dial indicator. 8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection,
zero dial indicator.
Perform steps 7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero reading is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for a "nominal" pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification
of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths
from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number,
dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tools and pinion bearings from housing, noting installation position of
bearings.
PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install selected shim onto pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable
spacers.
2. Install new collapsible spacer onto pinion shaft, then insert pinion assembly into housing. 3.
Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing into housing and tap bearing over pinion shaft with
suitable drift while assistant holds pinion in
place.
Old pinion nut and suitable large washer can be used to seat front bearing on pinion, but care must
be taken not to collapse spacer
if this method is used.
4. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft yoke on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping yoke until several pinion
shaft threads protrude from yoke.
5. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut. 6. Hold
driveshaft yoke with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay
is reduced to zero. 7. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload using
suitable torque wrench.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8371
8. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified pinion bearing preload is
obtained, rotating pinion and checking preload after
each adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far,
requiring replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 9 Pinion Depth Gauge Installation
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if
ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing requires replacement, pinion depth must be adjusted
using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver.
2. Lubricate pinion bearings and install bearings in races.
3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing noting the following.
Use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01, Fig. 9, or suitable equivalent. Follow all
tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge assembly. a.
Assemble gauge plate on preload stud.
b. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through rear bearing and pilot, then front bearing and
pilot, install retaining nut and tighten nut hand tight.
c. Rotate tool to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
d. Hold preload stud and tighten nut until 20 inch lbs. torque is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut
in small increments, checking rotating
torque after each adjustment using suitable torque wrench.
e. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step that corresponds to base of housing.
f. Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger.
5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution, then secure to arbor stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotate plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size.
7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button while observing dial indicator.
8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection, zero dial indicator. Perform steps
7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero setting is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for ``nominal'' pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows: a.
If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension obtained
in step 9.
b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths from dimension
obtained in step 9.
c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number, dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim
thickness.
12. Remove gauging tool and pinion bearings from housing.
DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install pinion bearing races in housing, if not previously installed, using suitable drivers to ensure
that races are squarely seated.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Bearing, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8372
2. Install selected shim on pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
3. Install new collapsible spacer on pinion and insert pinion assembly into housing.
4. Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing in housing and tap bearing onto pinion shaft while
assistant holds pinion in place.
Old pinion nut
and large washer can be used to draw front bearing onto pinion, but care must be taken not to
collapse spacer if this method is used.
5. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft flange on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping flange until several pinion shaft threads protrude.
6. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut and
adjust preload to specifications.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure that pinion and bearings are properly installed, as outlined.
2. Hold driveshaft companion flange with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate
pinion until endplay is reduced to zero.
3. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with suitable
torque wrench.
4. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified bearing preload is obtained,
rotating pinion and checking preload after each adjustment.
Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far, requiring replacement of
spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Pinion Gear: Adjustments Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Fig. 5 Pinion Depth Setting.
If original ring gear and pinion are to be reused, measure original shim pack and build a new shim
pack to the same dimension. If baffle is in the axle assembly, it is considered part of the shim pack.
Ring gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets only. If a new gear is being used, verify
numbers on pinion and ring gear before proceeding with assembling. On the button end of the
pinion there is a (+), (-), or "0" number which indicates the best running position for each particular
gear set. This position is controlled by shims installed behind the inner bearing cup. If baffles or oil
slingers are used, they are considered part of the adjusting shim pack. If a new gear set is being
installed, note the plus or minus mark on both old and new pinions and adjust thickness of shim
pack to compensate for the difference between these two numbers. Refer to chart, Fig. 5, when
determining shim size.
1. Install inner shim pack and, on 9 3/4 inch ring gear axle, the oil slinger in inner or rear cup bore,
then drive cup into position using suitable tool. 2. Add or remove an equal amount to the outer shim
pack as was added to the inner shim pack. 3. Drive outer cup into carrier bore, then press rear
pinion bearing onto pinion shaft. 4. Install drive pinion and bearing into differential carrier. 5. Install
shims and outer or front pinion bearing. 6. Install companion flange, then the washer and nut on
pinion shaft. 7. Measure rotating torque of pinion shaft. Discounting torque required to start turning
shaft, rotating torque should measure 6-8 inch lbs. 8. If rotating torque is not within specifications,
adjust shim pack as necessary. Increase outer shim pack to reduce torque, or decrease shim pack
to
increase torque.
9. Remove nut, washer and companion flange from pinion shaft.
10. Install oil slinger, gasket (if equipped) and oil seal onto pinion shaft. 11. Install companion
flange, washer and nut and tighten as described in step 7.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8377
Pinion Gear: Adjustments Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 1 Timken/Rockwell drive axle w/12 inch ring gear exploded view
DISASSEMBLY
1. Tap or press pinion from cage, taking care not to damage shaft threads, then remove outer
pinion bearing, Fig. 1.
2. Remove spacer from pinion, then the inner bearing, using suitable separator and press or puller.
3. If straddle bearing must be replaced, remove snap ring and washer, then the bearing, using
suitable puller.
4. If bearings are to be replaced, press outer races from bearing cage, taking care not to distort
cage.
5. Inspect components as outlined, and replace as needed, keeping components in order for
assembly.
ASSEMBLY & PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. When installing new cups, press them firmly against pinion bearing cage shoulders.
2. Lubricate bearings and cups with suitable lubricant.
3. Press rear thrust and radial bearings firmly against pinion shoulders, using suitable sleeve that
will bear only on bearing inner race.
4. Install radial bearing lock ring, then squeeze ring into pinion shaft groove.
5. Insert pinion and bearing assembly in pinion cage and position spacer or spacer combination
over pinion shaft.
6. Press front bearing firmly against spacer.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8378
7. Rotate cage several revolutions to assure normal bearing contact.
8. Press flange or yoke against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut.
9. Place pinion and cage assembly over carrier studs, hold flange with suitable tool, and torque
pinion shaft nut to 350 ft. lbs.
10. Check pinion bearing preload torque. If rotating torque is not within 5 to 15 pound inches,
disassemble, adjust spacer, reassemble, and recheck preload torque. Use thinner spacer to
increase or thicker spacer to decrease preload.
11. Hold flange with suitable tool and remove pinion shaft nut and flange.
12. Lubricate pinion shaft oil seal and cover outer edge of seal body with non-hardening sealing
compound, then press seal against cover shoulder with suitable tool.
13. Install new gasket and bearing cover.
14. Press flange against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut, torquing nut to
350 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8379
Pinion Gear: Adjustments Corporate and Eaton
7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing are replaced,
pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver. 2. Lubricate pinion
bearings and install bearings in races. 3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing, noting the following:
Fig. 16 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/7-1/2 inch ring gear
a. On models with 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-23597-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 16. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8380
Fig. 17 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/8-1/2 & 8-7/8 inch ring gear
b. On models with 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 17. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
c. Assemble gauge plate onto preload stud. d. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot and front bearing and pilot, then install retaining nut and tighten nut
until snug.
e. Rotate tool to ensure bearings are properly seated. f.
Hold preload stud and torque nut until 20 inch lbs. is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut in small
increments, checking rotating
torque after
each adjustment, to prevent damaging bearings.
g. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step for disc that corresponds to base of housing. h.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing, ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to
prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger. 5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution and secure to arbor mounting stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotating plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size. 7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button
while observing dial indicator. 8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection,
zero dial indicator.
Perform steps 7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero reading is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for a "nominal" pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification
of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths
from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number,
dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tools and pinion bearings from housing, noting installation position of
bearings.
PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install selected shim onto pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable
spacers.
2. Install new collapsible spacer onto pinion shaft, then insert pinion assembly into housing. 3.
Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing into housing and tap bearing over pinion shaft with
suitable drift while assistant holds pinion in
place.
Old pinion nut and suitable large washer can be used to seat front bearing on pinion, but care must
be taken not to collapse spacer
if this method is used.
4. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft yoke on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping yoke until several pinion
shaft threads protrude from yoke.
5. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut. 6. Hold
driveshaft yoke with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay
is reduced to zero. 7. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload using
suitable torque wrench.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8381
8. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified pinion bearing preload is
obtained, rotating pinion and checking preload after
each adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far,
requiring replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 9 Pinion depth gauge installation
PINION DEPTH, ADJUST
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing requires
replacement, pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver.
2. Lubricate pinion bearings and install bearings in races.
3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing noting the following.
Use gauge assembly J-21777-01, Fig. 9, or suitable equivalent. Follow all tool
manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge assembly.
a. Assemble gauge plate on preload stud. b. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot, then front bearing and pilot, install retaining nut and tighten nut
hand tight.
c. Rotate tool to ensure that bearings are properly seated. d. Hold preload stud and tighten nut until
20 inch lbs. torque is required to rotate stud.
Tighten nut in small increments, checking rotating
torque after each adjustment using suitable torque wrench.
e. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step that corresponds to base of housing. f.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing ensuring that side bearing discs are properly seated,
install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger.
5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution, then secure to arbor stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotate plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size.
7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button while observing dial indicator.
8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection, zero dial indicator. Perform steps
7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero setting is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for ``nominal'' pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus ( - ) number, subtract that many
thousandths from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus
number, dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tool and pinion bearings from housing.
DRIVE PINION, INSTALL
1. Install pinion bearing races in housing, if not previously installed, using suitable drivers to ensure
that races are squarely seated.
2. Install selected shim on pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Adjustments > Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle > Page 8382
3. Install new collapsible spacer on pinion and insert pinion assembly into housing.
4. Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing in housing and tap bearing onto pinion shaft while
assistant holds pinion in place. Old pinion nut
and large washer can be used to draw front bearing onto pinion, but care must be taken not to
collapse spacer if this method is used.
5. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft flange on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping flange until several pinion shaft threads protrude.
6. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut and
adjust preload to specifications.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure pinion and bearings are properly installed, as outlined. 2. Hold driveshaft companion
flange with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay is
reduced to zero. 3. Using and inch lb. torque wrench, check pinion preload by rotating pinion with
wrench. Preload should be at 20-25 inch lbs. or less on new
bearings or 10-15 inch lbs. on used bearings.
4. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified bearing preload is obtained,
rotating pinion and checking preload after each
adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far, requiring
replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton
Pinion Gear: Service and Repair Corporate and Eaton
7 1/2 - 8 5/8 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing are replaced,
pinion depth must be adjusted using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver. 2. Lubricate pinion
bearings and install bearings in races. 3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing, noting the following:
Fig. 16 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/7-1/2 inch ring gear
a. On models with 7 1/2 & 7 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-23597-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 16. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8385
Fig. 17 Pinion depth gauge tool installation. Models w/8-1/2 & 8-7/8 inch ring gear
b. On models with 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear, use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01 or
equivalent, Fig. 17. Follow all tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge
assembly.
c. Assemble gauge plate onto preload stud. d. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through
rear bearing and pilot and front bearing and pilot, then install retaining nut and tighten nut
until snug.
e. Rotate tool to ensure bearings are properly seated. f.
Hold preload stud and torque nut until 20 inch lbs. is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut in small
increments, checking rotating
torque after
each adjustment, to prevent damaging bearings.
g. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step for disc that corresponds to base of housing. h.
Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing, ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to
prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger. 5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution and secure to arbor mounting stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotating plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size. 7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button
while observing dial indicator. 8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection,
zero dial indicator.
Perform steps 7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero reading is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for a "nominal" pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification
of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows:
a. If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension
obtained in step 9. b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths
from dimension obtained in step 9. c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number,
dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim thickness.
12. Remove gauging tools and pinion bearings from housing, noting installation position of
bearings.
PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install selected shim onto pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable
spacers.
2. Install new collapsible spacer onto pinion shaft, then insert pinion assembly into housing. 3.
Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing into housing and tap bearing over pinion shaft with
suitable drift while assistant holds pinion in
place.
Old pinion nut and suitable large washer can be used to seat front bearing on pinion, but care must
be taken not to collapse spacer
if this method is used.
4. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft yoke on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping yoke until several pinion
shaft threads protrude from yoke.
5. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut. 6. Hold
driveshaft yoke with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate pinion until endplay
is reduced to zero. 7. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload using
suitable torque wrench.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8386
8. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified pinion bearing preload is
obtained, rotating pinion and checking preload after
each adjustment. Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far,
requiring replacement of spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
9 1/2 Inch Ring Gear
PINION DEPTH ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 9 Pinion Depth Gauge Installation
If original ring gear and pinion assembly and rear pinion bearing are to be reused, original depth
adjusting shim can be used. However, if
ring gear and pinion or rear pinion bearing requires replacement, pinion depth must be adjusted
using following procedures.
1. Install pinion bearing races to be used in housing using suitable driver.
2. Lubricate pinion bearings and install bearings in races.
3. Mount depth gauging jig in housing noting the following.
Use gauge assembly tool No. J-21777-01, Fig. 9, or suitable equivalent. Follow all
tool manufacturer's recommendations when installing gauge assembly. a.
Assemble gauge plate on preload stud.
b. Hold pinion bearings in position, insert stud through rear bearing and pilot, then front bearing and
pilot, install retaining nut and tighten nut hand tight.
c. Rotate tool to ensure that bearings are properly seated.
d. Hold preload stud and tighten nut until 20 inch lbs. torque is required to rotate stud. Tighten nut
in small increments, checking rotating
torque after each adjustment using suitable torque wrench.
e. Mount side bearing discs on arbor, using step that corresponds to base of housing.
f. Mount arbor and plunger assembly in housing ensuring that side bearing discs are properly
seated, install bearing caps and tighten cap bolts to prevent bearing discs from moving.
4. Mount suitable dial indicator on arbor stud with indicator contact button bearing against top of
arbor plunger.
5. Preload indicator 1/2 revolution, then secure to arbor stud in this position.
6. Place arbor plunger on gauge plate, rotate plate as needed so that plunger rests directly on
button corresponding to ring gear size.
7. Slowly rock plunger rod back and forth across button while observing dial indicator.
8. At point on button where indicator registers greatest deflection, zero dial indicator. Perform steps
7 and 8 several times to ensure correct
setting.
9. Once verified zero setting is obtained, swing plunger aside until it is clear of gauge plate button
and record dial indicator reading. Indicator will
now read required pinion depth shim thickness for ``nominal'' pinion.
10. Inspect rear face of drive pinion to be installed for a pinion code number. This number indicates
in thousandths of an inch necessary modification of pinion shim thickness obtained in step 9.
11. Select pinion depth adjusting shim as follows: a.
If pinion is stamped with a plus (+) number, add that number of thousandths to dimension obtained
in step 9.
b. If pinion is stamped with a minus (-) number, subtract that many thousandths from dimension
obtained in step 9.
c. If pinion is not stamped with plus or minus number, dimension obtained in step 9 is correct shim
thickness.
12. Remove gauging tool and pinion bearings from housing.
DRIVE PINION INSTALLATION
1. Install pinion bearing races in housing, if not previously installed, using suitable drivers to ensure
that races are squarely seated.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8387
2. Install selected shim on pinion shaft, lubricate rear pinion bearing with specified axle lubricant,
then press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
3. Install new collapsible spacer on pinion and insert pinion assembly into housing.
4. Lubricate front pinion bearing, install bearing in housing and tap bearing onto pinion shaft while
assistant holds pinion in place.
Old pinion nut
and large washer can be used to draw front bearing onto pinion, but care must be taken not to
collapse spacer if this method is used.
5. Install new pinion seal in housing, coat seal lips with grease, then mount driveshaft flange on
pinion shaft, lightly tapping flange until several pinion shaft threads protrude.
6. Coat rear of pinion washer with suitable sealer, then install washer and new pinion nut and
adjust preload to specifications.
PINION BEARING PRELOAD ADJUSTMENT
1. Ensure that pinion and bearings are properly installed, as outlined.
2. Hold driveshaft companion flange with suitable tool, then alternately tighten pinion nut and rotate
pinion until endplay is reduced to zero.
3. When endplay is reduced to zero, check pinion bearing preload by rotating pinion with suitable
torque wrench.
4. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified bearing preload is obtained,
rotating pinion and checking preload after each adjustment.
Exceeding preload specification will compress collapsible spacer too far, requiring replacement of
spacer. If preload
specification is exceeded, spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated.
Do not loosen pinion nut to reduce preload.
Disassembly
Fig. 9 Drive Pinion Removal
Fig. 10 Pinion Straddle Bearing Removal
1. Clamp pinion assembly in vise taking care not to damage housing or gear.
2. Hold driveshaft flange with suitable tool, then remove pinion nut and washer.
3. Remove driveshaft flange from pinion shaft using suitable puller.
4. Support housing in press as shown in
Fig. 9, and press pinion from housing. Do not allow pinion to drop on floor.
5. Separate pinion flange, oil seal, front bearing and bearing retainer, driving seal from housing with
suitable drift.
6. Remove bearing races from housing using suitable drift and place front bearing race with
bearing.
7. Press rear bearing from pinion and place bearing with race.
8. Remove straddle bearing from axle housing using suitable drift, Fig. 10.
9. Inspect components keeping all components in order, and replace as needed.
Assembly & Preload
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8388
Coat components with specified lubricant during assembly. If components are reused, they should
be installed in original position.
1. Press rear bearing onto pinion using suitable spacers.
2. Install front and rear bearing races in housing, using suitable drivers to ensure that races are
properly seated.
3. Install straddle bearing in axle housing using straddle bearing installer tool No. J-23322 or
equivalent to ensure that bearing is properly seated.
4. Insert pinion through housing, install new collapsible spacer and front bearing over pinion shaft,
support pinion and press front bearing onto shaft.
5. Lubricate lips of new seal with grease and install seal using suitable driver to seat seal against
shoulder of housing.
6. Install driveshaft companion flange, washer and new pinion nut.
7. Clamp housing in vise, hold flange with suitable tool and torque pinion nut just until all endplay is
removed.
8. Check pinion bearing preload (rotating torque) using suitable torque wrench.
9. Continue tightening pinion nut in small increments until specified preload is obtained, checking
preload after each adjustment. Exceeding
specified preload will collapse spacer too far to be reused. If preload specification is exceeded,
spacer must be replaced and adjustment procedure must be repeated. Do not loosen pinion nut to
reduce bearing preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8389
Pinion Gear: Service and Repair Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Fig. 5 Pinion Depth Setting.
If original ring gear and pinion are to be reused, measure original shim pack and build a new shim
pack to the same dimension. If baffle is in the axle assembly, it is considered part of the shim pack.
Ring gears and pinions are supplied in matched sets only. If a new gear is being used, verify
numbers on pinion and ring gear before proceeding with assembling. On the button end of the
pinion there is a (+), (-), or "0" number which indicates the best running position for each particular
gear set. This position is controlled by shims installed behind the inner bearing cup. If baffles or oil
slingers are used, they are considered part of the adjusting shim pack. If a new gear set is being
installed, note the plus or minus mark on both old and new pinions and adjust thickness of shim
pack to compensate for the difference between these two numbers. Refer to chart, Fig. 5, when
determining shim size.
1. Install inner shim pack and, on 9 3/4 inch ring gear axle, the oil slinger in inner or rear cup bore,
then drive cup into position using suitable tool. 2. Add or remove an equal amount to the outer shim
pack as was added to the inner shim pack. 3. Drive outer cup into carrier bore, then press rear
pinion bearing onto pinion shaft. 4. Install drive pinion and bearing into differential carrier. 5. Install
shims and outer or front pinion bearing. 6. Install companion flange, then the washer and nut on
pinion shaft. 7. Measure rotating torque of pinion shaft. Discounting torque required to start turning
shaft, rotating torque should measure 6-8 inch lbs. 8. If rotating torque is not within specifications,
adjust shim pack as necessary. Increase outer shim pack to reduce torque, or decrease shim pack
to
increase torque.
9. Remove nut, washer and companion flange from pinion shaft.
10. Install oil slinger, gasket (if equipped) and oil seal onto pinion shaft. 11. Install companion
flange, washer and nut and tighten as described in step 7.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8390
Pinion Gear: Service and Repair Timken/Rockwell - 12 Inch Ring Gear
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Timken/Rockwell Drive Axle With 12 inch Ring Gear
DISASSEMBLY
1. Tap or press pinion from cage, taking care not to damage shaft threads, then remove outer
pinion bearing, Fig. 1.
2. Remove spacer from pinion, then the inner bearing, using suitable separator and press or puller.
3. If straddle bearing must be replaced, remove snap ring and washer, then the bearing, using
suitable puller.
4. If bearings are to be replaced, press outer races from bearing cage, taking care not to distort
cage.
5. Inspect components as outlined, and replace as needed, keeping components in order for
assembly.
ASSEMBLY & PRELOAD
1. When installing new cups, press them firmly against pinion bearing cage shoulders.
2. Lubricate bearings and cups with suitable lubricant.
3. Press rear thrust and radial bearings firmly against pinion shoulders, using suitable sleeve that
will bear only on bearing inner race.
4. Install radial bearing lock ring, then squeeze ring into pinion shaft groove.
5. Insert pinion and bearing assembly in pinion cage and position spacer or spacer combination
over pinion shaft.
6. Press front bearing firmly against spacer.
7. Rotate cage several revolutions to assure normal bearing contact.
8. Press flange or yoke against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut.
9. Place pinion and cage assembly over carrier studs, hold flange with suitable tool and torque
pinion shaft nut to 240 ft. lbs.
10. Check pinion bearing preload torque. If rotating torque is not within 5 to 15 pound inches,
disassemble, adjust spacer, reassemble, and recheck preload torque. Use thinner spacer to
increase or thicker spacer to decrease preload.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Pinion Gear, Differential >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Corporate and Eaton > Page 8391
11. Hold flange with suitable tool and remove pinion shaft nut and flange.
12. Lubricate pinion shaft oil seal and cover outer edge of seal body with non-hardening sealing
compound, then press seal against cover shoulder with suitable tool.
13. Install new gasket and bearing cover.
14. Press flange against forward bearing and install washer and pinion shaft nut, torquing nut to
240 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear
- Tools Required: J 8614-01 Companion Flange Holder:
- J 8614-02 Companion Flange Remover
- J 24388 Pinion Oil Seal Installer (American Axle 9 1/2 inch ring gear axle)
- J 22836 Pinion Oil Seal Installer (American Axle 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear axles)
- J 22804 Pinion Oil Seal Spacer
- The pinion oil seal and the companion flange may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed
in the vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Raise the vehicle on a hoist and support with safety stands.
1. Rear wheels and drums.
Important: It is essential that the positions of all driveline components relative to the propeller shaft and axles
be observed and accurately reference marked prior to disassembly. These components include the
propeller shafts, drive axles, pinion flanges, output shafts, etc. All components must be
reassembled in the exact relationship to each other as they were when removed. Specifications
and torque values, as well as any measurements made prior to disassembly, must be followed.
- Accurately mark the installed position of the rear propeller shaft.
2. Propeller shaft.
A. Use a piece of tape to hold the bearing caps. B. Secure the propeller shaft up and out of the way
so as not to put unnecessary stress on the universal joints.
C. Measure, using an inch-pound torque wrench, the amount of torque required to turn the pinion.
Record this measurement for reassembly. This
will give combined pinion bearing, seal, carrier bearing, axle bearing and seal preload.
D. Make an accurate alignment mark on the pinion stem, pinion flange, and pinion flange nut. Also
record the number of exposed threads on the
pinion stem for reference.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8396
3. Pinion flange nut and washer.
- Hold the pinion flange with J 8614-01.
4. Pinion flange using J 8614-01.
- Use container to catch lubricant.
5. Oil seal.
- Pry the oil seal from the bore. Do not damage the machined surfaces. Thoroughly clean foreign
material from the contact area.
- Replace parts as necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you Install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence
and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Oil seal into the bore using J 22804-1 and either J 22388 (9 1/2 inch ring gear) or J 22836 (8 1/2
and 8 5/8 ring gears). Turn J 22804-1 from
installed position 180° to ensure proper installation against the pinion flange. Lubricate the cavity between the new seal lips with a high melting point bearing lubricant.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8397
2. Pinion flange using J 8614-01.
- Use scribed marks for installation.
Important: Do not attempt to hammer the pinion flange onto the pinion stem.
3. Washer and a new nut.
- Tighten: A. The nut on the pinion stem as close to the original marks as possible without going
past the mark. Use the reference mark and the thread
count as reference.
B. The nut a little at a time and turn the pinion flange several times after each tightening to set the
rollers.
Measure
- Using an inch-pound torque wrench, the torque required to rotate the pinion. Compare this with
the required rotating torque recorded earlier. Continue tightening and measuring a little at a time
until the same preload is achieved.
Important:
- If the original preload torque value was less than 3 (inch lbs.) then reset the torque specification to
3-5 (inch lbs.).
- Align the propeller shaft with the alignment marks made previously.
4. Propeller shaft. 5. Retainers and bolts.
- Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
6. Rear wheels and drums. 7. Lubricant to the rear axle as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8398
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Full-Floating Axle 10-1/2 Inch Ring Gear
- Tools Required: -
J 8614-01 Companion Flange Holder
- J 8614-02 Companion Flange Remover
- J 24384 Pinion Oil Seal Installer (American Axle 10 1/2 inch ring gear axle).
- The pinion oil seal and the companion flange may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed
in the vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Raise the vehicle on a hoist and support with safety stands.
1. Axle shafts.
Important: It is essential that the positions of all driveline components relative to the propeller shaft and axles
be observed and accurately reference marked prior to disassembly. These components Include the
propeller shafts, drive axles, pinion flanges, output shafts, etc. All components must be
reassembled in the exact relationship to each other as they were when removed. Specifications
and torque values, as well as any measurements made prior to disassembly, must be followed.
- Accurately mark the installed position of the rear propeller shaft.
2. Propeller shaft.
A. Use a piece of tape to hold the bearing caps. B. Secure the propeller shaft up and out of the way
so as not to put unnecessary stress on the universal joints.
C. Measure, using an inch-pound torque wrench, the amount of torque required to turn the pinion.
Record this measurement for reassembly. This
will give combined pinion bearing, seal, and carrier bearing preload.
D. Make an accurate alignment mark on the pinion stem, pinion flange, and pinion flange nut. Also
record the number of exposed threads on the
pinion stem for reference.
3. Pinion flange nut and washer.
- Hold the pinion flange with J 8614-01.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8399
4. Pinion flange using J 8614-01.
- Use container to catch lubricant.
5. Oil seal.
- Pry the oil seal from the bore. Do not damage the machined surfaces. Thoroughly clean foreign
material from the contact area.
- Replace parts as necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you Install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence
and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Oil seal into the bore using J 24384.
- Lubricate the cavity between the new seal lips with a high melting point bearing lubricant.
2. Pinion flange.
- Use scribed marks for installation.
Important: Do not attempt to hammer the pinion flange onto the pinion stem.
3. Washer and a new nut.
- Tighten: A. The nut on the pinion stem as close to the original marks as possible without going
past the mark. Use the reference mark and the thread
count as reference.
B. The nut a little at a time and turn the pinion flange several times after each tightening to set the
rollers.
Measure
- Using an inch-pound torque wrench, the torque required to rotate the pinion. Compare this with
the required rotating torque recorded earlier. Continue tightening and measuring a little at a time
until the same preload is achieved.
Important: If the original preload torque value was less than 3 (inch lbs.) then reset the torque specification to
3-5 (inch lbs.).
- Align the propeller shaft with the alignment marks made previously.
4. Propeller shaft. 5. Retainers and bolts.
- Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 ft. lbs.).
6. Axle shafts. 7. Lubricant to the rear axle as necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8400
Seals and Gaskets: Service and Repair Full-Floating Axle 11 Inch Ring Gear
- Tool Required: J 8614-01 Pinion Flange Holder and Remover
- J 24384 Pinion Oil Seal Installer (Dana 11 inch ring gear axle).
- The pinion oil seal and the pinion flange may be replaced with the carrier assembly installed in the
vehicle.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Raise the vehicle.
1. Propeller shaft.
Important: Scribe a line on the pinion stem, pinion nut and pinion flange to be used as an
installation guide.
2. Nut using J 8614-01.
3. Flange using J 8614-01. 4. Oil seal.
- Use the special nut and forcing screw to remove the flange.
- Pry the oil seal from the bore. Do not damage the machined surfaces.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8401
- Thoroughly clean foreign material from the contact area.
Inspect
- Oil seal mating surfaces for any burrs which may cause seal failure.
- Flange deflector for any abnormality such as cracking or distortion.
- Replace any part which shows any of the above conditions.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
1. Oil seal into the bore using J 24384.
- Lubricate the inside diameter of the new oil seal with extreme pressure lubricant.
- Pack the cavity between the pinion stem, pinion flange and pinion nut washer with a
non-hardening sealer such as Permatex(R) Type A or equivalent. Do not coat the bearing.
2. Flange using J 8614.
- Use marks scribed previously for installation.
3. A new pinion nut, using J 8614-01.
- Use marks scribed previously for installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Differential Assembly > Seals and Gaskets, Differential >
System Information > Service and Repair > Semi-Floating Axle 8-1/2, 8-5/8 and 9-1/2 Inch Ring Gear > Page 8402
- Tighten pinion nut to 596 to 678 Nm (440 to 500 ft. lbs.).
4. Propeller shaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle
Axle Bearing: Service and Repair Rockwell Full Floating Axle
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of hub or disc will be barely noticeable. If the
movement is excessive, adjust the bearings as follows:
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove axle shaft. 3. Remove retaining nut and lock washer. 4.
Using nut wrench tool No. J-25510, or equivalent, torque adjusting nut, with hub rotating, to 50.0 ft.
lbs. Ensure bearing surfaces are in contact,
then back adjusting nut off 1/8 turn.
5. Install lock washer, the bend tang over flat of adjusting nut. 6. Install retaining nut and torque to
250 ft. lbs. 7. Install axle shaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8408
Axle Bearing: Service and Repair Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Wheel Bearing, Adjust
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake flange
plate will be barely noticeable and the wheel will turn freely. If the movement is excessive, adjust
the bearings as follows:
1. Back off attaching nut until just loose, but not more than one slot of the lock or the axle spindle
using wheel bearing nut wrench tool No. J-2222-C,
or equivalent.
2. Align adjusting nut slot with keyway in the axle spindle.
Hub & Bearing
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove axle shaft.
3. Remove hub and drum.
4. Remove oil seal, inner bearing and retaining ring.
5. Remove outer bearing.
6. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair Rockwell Full Floating Axle
REAR AXLE SHAFT
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove axle hub cap. 2. Thread slide hammer tool No.
J-2619-01, or equivalent, into tapped hole on axle shaft flange. 3. Remove axle from housing. 4.
Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8413
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
Axle Shaft Replace
Full-Floating Axle (10 1/2 Inch Ring Gear)
Fig. 3 Axle, Hub & Drum Components.
Remove or Disconnect
1. Bolts (55). Rap the axle shaft (53) flange lightly with a soft faced hammer to loosen the shaft.
- Grip the rib on the axle shaft (53) flange with a locking plier and twist, to start shaft removal.
2. Axle shaft (52) from the tube.
Clean
- Axle shaft (53) flange. Remove old RTV or gasket (51).
- Outside face of the hub assembly.
Inspect
- All parts and replace as necessary.
Install or Connect
1. Axle shaft (53) with a gasket or RTV applied. Be sure the shaft splines mesh into the differential side gear.
- Align the axle shaft holes with the hub holes.
2. Bolts (55). Tighten bolts (55) to 156 Nm (115 ft. lbs.).
Wheel Bearing, Adjust
REAR WHEEL BEARING
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake flange
plate will be barely noticeable and the wheel will turn freely. If the movement is excessive, adjust
the bearings as follows:
1. Back off attaching nut until just loose, but not more than one slot of the lock or the axle spindle
using wheel bearing nut wrench tool No. J-2222-C,
or equivalent.
2. Align adjusting nut slot with keyway in the axle spindle.
Hub & Bearing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8414
REAR WHEEL BEARING
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove axle shaft.
3. Remove hub and drum.
4. Remove oil seal, inner bearing and retaining ring.
5. Remove outer bearing.
6. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8415
Axle Shaft Assembly: Service and Repair Semi-Floating Axle (8 1/2, 8 5/8 and 9 1/2 Inch Ring
Gear)
REAR AXLE SHAFT, OIL SEAL, AND BEARING REPLACEMENT
- Tools Required: J 2619-01 Slide Hammer with Adapter
- J 23689 Axle Shaft Bearing Remover (large shaft 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear).
- J 29712 Axle Shaft Bearing Remover (9 1/2 inch ring gear)
- J 8092 Driver Handle
- J 21128 Axle Shaft and Pinion Oil Seal Installer
- J 23690 Axle Shaft Bearing Installer
- J 29709 Axle Shaft Bearing Installer (9 1/2 inch ring gear)
- J 29713 Axle Shaft Seal Installer (9 1/2 inch ring gear)
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
- Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
1. Wheel and tire assembly. 2. Brake drum.
- Clean the dirt from around the carrier cover.
3. Carrier cover.
- Catch the oil in a drain pan.
- Remove gasket material if used.
4. Screw (A).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8416
5. Pinion shaft (B).
- Remove the shaft from the case on vehicles without a locking differential.
- With a locking differential, remove the shaft (B) part way, and rotate the case until the pinion shaft
touches the housing.
- Use a screwdriver or similar tool to enter the case and rotate the lock until it aligns with the thrust
block.
6. Lock.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8417
- Push the flange of the axle shaft towards the differential. Do not force or hammer the shaft to
move the axle shaft.
- Remove the lock from the button end of the axle shaft.
7. Axle shaft.
- Slide the axle shaft out, being careful not to damage the seal.
8. Seal using J 23689. 9. Bearing.
A. Use J 23689 for 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear axles or J 29712 for 9 1/2 inch ring gear to pull
the bearing from the axle.
B. Insert the tool into the axle bore so that it grasps behind the bearing. Tighten the nut and washer
against the face of the bearing. Pull the
bearing out using J 2619-01.
Inspect
- All parts. Replace as necessary.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
NOTICE: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener, use
ONLY the exact part number for that application. The manufacturer will call out those fasteners that
require a replacement after removal. The manufacturer will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. UNLESS OTHERWISE SPECIFIED, do not use supplemental
coatings (paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors on threaded fasteners or fastener joint
interfaces. Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force,
and may damage the fastener. When you Install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence
and specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
- Lubricate the axle cavity between the seal lips and the bearing with wheel bearing lubricant.
1. Bearing.
- Use J 23690 for the 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch gear axle and J 29709 for the 9 1/2 inch ring gear axle.
2. Seal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Axle Shaft Assembly >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Rockwell Full Floating Axle > Page 8418
- Bearing into the axle housing until the tool bottoms against the tube.
- Use J 21128 for 8 1/2 and 8 5/8 inch ring gear axle and J 29713 for the 9 1/2 inch ring gear axle.
- Drive the tool into the bore until the seal bottoms flush with the end of the tube.
3. Axle shaft.
- Be careful not to damage the seal when inserting the axle shaft.
- Slide the axle shaft into place allowing the splines to engage the differential side gear (F).
4. Lock.
- Without locking differential: A. Place the lock on the button end of the axle shaft, then pull the
shaft flange outward to seat the lock in the differential side gear.
- With locking differential: A. Keep the pinion shaft partially withdrawn. B. Place the lock in the
position shown. Pull the shaft flange outward to seat the lock in the differential side gear.
5. Pinion shaft.
- Align the hole in the pinion shaft with the screw hole in the differential case.
Important: Anytime a differential pinion shaft locking screw is removed, it is important to coat the
screw threads with Loctite 242 before reinstalling. These screws are coated with an adhesive which
helps to prevent the screw from loosening in the case. When this screw is removed, the adhesive is
also removed.
6. Screw (A).
- Tighten screw to 34/36 Nm (25/27 ft. lbs.).
7. Carrier cover gasket or RTV (if used). 8. Carrier cover. 9. Bolts and clip.
- Bolts in a crosswise pattern to 27/41 Nm (20/30 ft. lbs.).
10. Brake drum. 11. Wheel and tire assembly.
- Lower the vehicle.
12. Axle lubricant. Fill to the filler plug hole level.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Adjustments > Front
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove wheel cover, if equipped. 3. Remove cap from hub/disc
assembly. 4. Remove cotter pin. 5. Tighten nut (12), Fig. 5, to 12 ft lbs, while turning wheel forward
by hand. This will seat the bearing. 6. Loosen nut (12) to a just loose position, then back nut off
until hole in the spindle aligns with a slot in the nut. Do not back the nut off more than
1/2 flat.
INSTALL
1. New cotter pin. With wheel bearing properly adjusted, there will be .001---.005 inch endplay.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Adjustments > Front > Page 8423
Wheel Bearing: Adjustments Rear
Dana/Spicer Full Floating Axle
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of the brake drum in relation to the brake flange
plate will be barely noticeable and the wheel will turn freely. If the movement is excessive, adjust
the bearings as follows:
1. Back off attaching nut until just loose, but not more than one slot of the lock or the axle spindle
using wheel bearing nut wrench tool No. J-2222-C or equivalent.
2. Align adjusting nut slot with keyway in the axle spindle.
Rockwell Full Floating Axle
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS ADJUSTMENT
Ensure the brakes are completely released and do not drag. Check wheel bearing play by grasping
the tire at the top and pulling and pushing back and forth, or by using a pry bar under the tire. If the
wheel bearings are properly adjusted, movement of hub or disc will be barely noticeable. If the
movement is excessive, adjust the bearings as follows:
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove axle shaft. 3. Remove retaining nut and lock washer. 4.
Using nut wrench tool No. J-25510, or equivalent, torque adjusting nut, with hub rotating, to 50.0 ft.
lbs. Ensure bearing surfaces are in contact,
then back adjusting nut off 1/8 turn.
5. Install lock washer, the bend tang over flat of adjusting nut. 6. Install retaining nut and torque to
250 ft. lbs. 7. Install axle shaft.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Front
FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS AND/OR HUB
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Bearing >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Front > Page 8426
Wheel Bearing: Service and Repair Rear
REAR WHEEL BEARINGS
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove axle shaft.
3. Remove hub and drum.
4. Remove oil seal, inner bearing and retaining ring.
5. Remove outer bearing.
6. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Hub > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Wheel Hub: Service and Repair
FRONT HUB/BEARING
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive Axles, Bearings and Joints > Wheel Seal > Component
Information > Service and Repair
Wheel Seal: Service and Repair
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Universal Joint,
Drive/Propeller Shaft > Component Information > Description and Operation
Universal Joint: Description and Operation
The cross and roller type universal joint is a cross-shaped spider joint connecting two Y-shaped
yokes. When design angles of more than 3-4° are exceeded, joints wear faster than normal.
Original equipment joints are lubricated for life and cannot be lubricated on the vehicle. Never
clamp propeller shaft tubing in a vice. Always clamp one of the yokes and support shaft
horizontally.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Universal Joint,
Drive/Propeller Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair > Service Notes
Universal Joint: Service and Repair Service Notes
Before disassembling any universal joint, examine the assembly carefully and note the position of
the grease fitting (if used). Also, be sure to mark the yokes in relation to the propeller shaft for
assembly reference. Failure to observe these precautions may produce rough vehicle operation
resulting in rapid wear and parts failure, as well as placing an unbalanced load on transmission,
engine and rear axle.
When universal joints are disassembled for lubrication or inspection, and the old parts are to be
reinstalled, special care must be exercised to avoid damage to universal joint spider or cross and
bearing cups.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Universal Joint,
Drive/Propeller Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair > Service Notes > Page 8439
Universal Joint: Service and Repair Cross & Roller Type
Fig. 1 Production Type Universal Joints Which Use Nylon Injection Rings In Place Of Snap Rings
Fig. 2 Service Type Universal Joints (Internal Snap Ring Type)
Production universal joints cannot be reassembled because there are no bearing retainer grooves
in the production bearing caps, Figs. 2 and 3.
DISASSEMBLY
1. Mark shaft for assembly reference. 2. Support shaft in a horizontal line with universal joint
bearing separator tool No. J 9522-3, equivalent or suitable vice.
Fig. 4 External Snap Ring Universal Joint.
3. On models with external snap rings, remove snap rings, Fig. 4. If ring does not snap out of
groove, relieve pressure on ring by tapping lightly on
bearing cap.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Universal Joint,
Drive/Propeller Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair > Service Notes > Page 8440
4. On all models, place joint in tool No. J 9522-3 or equivalent with lower yoke ear supported by 1
1/8 inch socket, Fig. 5, then press out cap. If cap
is not completely removed, insert spacer tool No. J 9522-5 or equivalent and continue to press, Fig.
6. If using a vice in place of special tool, use 1 1/8 inch socket to receive one cap and 5/8 inch
socket to push opposite cap.
5. Rotate joint in tool or vice and press opposite cap out, then remove cross from yoke. 6. Inspect
and clean retaining ring grooves. 7. Check cap bores for burrs and imperfections.
ASSEMBLY
1. Use finger to coat needle bearings with thin layer of grease. Do not fill cups completely or use
excessive amounts. Over lubrication may damage
seals.
2. Put one bearing cap part way into one side of yoke, then insert cross into cap, Fig. 7. 3. Press
cross and cap into yoke until cap is flush with yoke ear.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Drive/Propeller Shafts, Bearings and Joints > Universal Joint,
Drive/Propeller Shaft > Component Information > Service and Repair > Service Notes > Page 8441
4. Press opposite cap into yoke, ensuring trunnion alignment, Fig. 8. 5. Continue to press cap into
yoke ear while working cross to ensure free, unbinding movement until retainer groove clears
inside of yoke. If binding
occurs, stop pressing and check for misaligned bearings.
6. Snap retainers into place, Fig. 9. Yoke can be sprung slightly with firm hammer blow if retainer is
difficult to seat, Fig. 10.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications
Fluid - M/T: Capacity Specifications
5 SPEED TRANSMISSION OIL
85 mm & 109 mm ................................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 3.6 pts.
New Venture Gear 4500 ......................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 8.0 pts.
New Venture Gear 3500 ......................................................................................................................
....................................................................... 4.4 pts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Manual Transmission/Transaxle > Fluid - M/T > Component
Information > Specifications > Capacity Specifications > Page 8447
Fluid - M/T: Fluid Type Specifications
New Venture Gear 3500 Synchromesh Transmission Fluid P/N 9985648
New Venture Gear 4500 Castrol Syntorq LT Transmission Fluid.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for
Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8458
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays
and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service
Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8464
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Technical Service
Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8473
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8474
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8477
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8478
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8479
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8480
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8481
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8482
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8483
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information and Instructions > Page 8484
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8485
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8486
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8501
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8502
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8503
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8504
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8505
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8506
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8507
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8508
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8509
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8510
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram
Information and Instructions > Page 8511
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8512
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8513
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8514
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
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Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8515
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8516
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Diagrams > Page
8517
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission
Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - Transmission and Drivetrain >
Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information > Locations > Transmission
Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E > Page 8522
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Interlock Solenoid > Component Information >
Locations
Shift Interlock Solenoid: Locations
RH side of steering column, under Support bracket.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling >
Page 8537
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
Shift Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle Downshift >
Page 8542
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC
Cycling
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC Cycling
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 77-71-77
Date: December, 1997
Subject: Loss of 4th Gear, Slipping in 4th Gear, Busy 3-4 Shifting or TCC Cycling (Replace Shift
Solenoids)
Models:
1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G, P Models with HYDRA-MATIC 4L8OE Transmission (RPO
MT1)
Condition
Some owners may comment about a loss of 4th gear, slipping in 4th gear, busy 3-4 shifting or
Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) cycling and no DTC's are setting.
Cause
Shift solenoid leaking hydraulically.
Correction
If normal diagnosis does not provide a correction, follow the solenoid test procedure listed. Replace
the shift solenoid if it fails the test. Also verify that the transmission cooling system is operating
properly.
Service Information (figure 1) Starting June 23, 1997 (Julian date 174) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E
transmissions are being built with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids will service all
1991 through 1997 4L80-E applications.
The above listed conditions occur mainly on high duty cycle applications and/or when the
transmission is operated under high temperature conditions.
Each solenoid may be tested for leaking using the following test:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 77-71-77 > Dec > 97 > A/T - Loss of 4th Gear/Busy 3-4 Shifting/TCC
Cycling > Page 8548
1. Remove the solenoid from the control valve body. Refer to the Service Manual for the proper
procedure.
2. Clamp a piece of 1/2 inch I.D. rubber hose over the fluid inlet end of the solenoid.
3. Connect a wire from one of the solenoid terminals to the negative terminal (ground) of a battery.
4. Apply compressed air to the rubber hose. Do not use air pressure in excess of 120 psi.
Excessive pressure will not allow the check ball to seat properly.
5. Connect a wire from the other solenoid to the positive terminal (12 volts) of the battery.
6. Observe the air flow through the solenoid. Replace the solenoid if there is an air leak when the
solenoid is energized.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
10478140 1-2 & 3-4 Shift Solenoid (black)
10478141 2-3 Shift Solenoid (white)
Parts are currently available through GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Shift Solenoid Update
File In Section: 7 Transmission
Bulletin No.: 37-71-48A
Date: November, 1996
INFORMATION
Subject: Transmission Product Updates (New Shift Solenoids)
Models: 1991-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, P, G Models 1991 Chevrolet and GMC R/V Models with
HYDRA-MATIC 4L8O-E Transmission (RPO MT1)
This bulletin is being revised to update the part numbers and to include 1995-97 model years.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 377148 (Section 7 - Transmission).
Service Information
Starting August 14, 1996 (Julian date 226) all HYDRA-MATIC 4L80-E transmissions are being built
with the new solenoid assemblies. The new solenoids are serviced for all 1991 through 1997
4L80-E applications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 377148A > Nov > 96 > A/T - Shift Solenoid Update > Page 8553
Parts Information
Previous Part New Part Description
10478125 10478132 Valve assembly, 1-2 Shift Solenoid (Black)
10478126 10478133 Valve assembly, 2-3 Shift Solenoid (White)
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
Shift Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 67-71-47
Date: July, 1996
Subject: 3-2 Part Throttle Downshift Flare (Replace 3-2 Solenoid)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1996 Chevrolet Camaro, Caprice,
Corvette 1996 Pontiac Firebird 1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, S/T, G Models 1996
Oldsmobile Bravada with HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E (RPO M30)
Condition (Figures 1 and 2)
Some owners of the above models with a HYDRA-MATIC 4L60-E transmission (built before May
24, 1996/Julian Date 6145) may experience an engine speed flare of 1000-2000 RPM, during a
part throttle downshift at 19-31 mph. This condition will not set any DTC's (Diagnostic Trouble
Codes).
Cause
Exhaust seat on the 3-2 control solenoid backing out.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 677147 > Jul > 96 > A/T - Engine Speed Flare During Part Throttle
Downshift > Page 8558
Correction (Figure 3)
Replace the 3-2 control solenoid. Julian Date on the solenoid will be May 13, 1996 (6134) or later.
Parts Information
New Part Number Description
24209121 Solenoid, 3-2 Control
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
K6559 Replace 3-2 Use published labor
Control Solenoid operation time.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints - Seat Belt
Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues
Seat Belt Buckle: All Technical Service Bulletins Restraints - Seat Belt Warning Lamp On/Buckling
Issues
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 09-09-40-001A
Date: February 02, 2011
Subject: Seat Belt Buckle Latching Issues and/or Seat Belt Warning Lights Illuminated
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks (Including Saturn) 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2,
H3 2009 and Prior Saab 9-7 X
Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to add the 2011 model year. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 09-09-40-001 (Section 09 - Restraints).
This bulletin is being published to advise dealers about seat belt buckles not operating and/or seat
belt warning light illumination, as well as difficulty latching and unlatching the buckle or the buckle
release button sticking.
Analysis of warranty data has determined that this condition may be caused by sticky beverages
being spilled onto or into the seat belt buckle assembly. Foreign debris from food, candy wrappers,
paper and coins can also contribute to this condition.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced. Point out the
fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by the new vehicle warranty. If the
customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department management must make a
notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating position with an inoperative
buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department management must advise the
customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids ability to use that seating
position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware that it may be against the
law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
Important Never insert anything other than the seat belt latch plate into the buckle assembly. Do
not attempt to dig anything out of a buckle with a tool. Never try to wash out a buckle to remove a
spilled liquid as this may damage the buckle.
Use the following steps to determine the cause of the concern.
1. Inspect the buckle assembly with a light shining on the latch plate insertion area. Look for any
debris or foreign objects in the buckle. 2. If any debris or foreign objects are observed, try to
vacuum out the item. After the foreign material is removed, latch and unlatch the seat belt. If
the system functions properly, do not replace the seat belt buckle assembly.
3. If the condition has not been corrected, inspect the buckle assembly for any sticky residue. If
sticky residue is found, inform the customer that a
substance was spilled on the seat belt buckle assembly causing the malfunction. The buckle
assembly will need to be replaced at the customer's expense.
4. Refer to SI for seat belt component replacement.
Important If foreign material (debris) or sticky liquids are the cause of the concern, show the
customer the condition of the component (buckle assembly) and explain how it is affecting the
function of the restraint system. Strongly recommend that the component be replaced at the
customer's expense. Point out the fact that this is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by
the new vehicle warranty. If the customer declines to have parts replaced, the service department
management must make a notation on the service record that the lack of functionality of seating
position with an inoperative buckle was fully explained to the customer. The service department
management must advise customer that having a non-functioning buckle in a seating position voids
ability to use that seating position (no one should ride in the seat). Also make the customer aware
that it may be against the law to ride in a vehicle without wearing a restraint system.
5. If further restraint diagnosis is required, refer to Seat Belt System Operational and Functional
Checks in SI.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints - Seat Belt
Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues > Page 8564
Disclaimer
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Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Shift Solenoid: > 09-09-40-001A > Feb > 11 > Restraints - Seat Belt
Warning Lamp On/Buckling Issues > Page 8570
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information >
Specifications > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8573
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
4L60-E Automatic Transmission
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Locations >
4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8576
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L60-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
CLEAN
- Exposed ends of bottom pan screws and spray with penetrating oil.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Screws (76), oil pan (75) and gasket (73). 2. Oil filter (72) and filter seal (71).
- Filter seal may be stuck in the pump.
INSPECT
- Filter (72), open filter by prying the metal crimping away from the top of the filter (black) and pull
apart. The filter may contain evidence for root cause diagnosis. Clutch material.
- Bronze slivers indicating bushing wear.
- Steel particles.
Valve Body and Wiring Harness
VALVE BODY AND WIRING HARNESS
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8579
Valve Body Bolt Location
Control Valve And Pressure Switch Assembly
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8580
Manual Valve Link
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8581
Valve Body Checkballs
Case Checkballs And Filters
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Electrical connections from components. 2. TCC PWM Solenoid Retainer Clip (379) and
Solenoid (396). 3. TCC Solenoid bolts (68) and solenoid assembly (66) with O-ring seal (65) and
wiring harness. 4. Pressure switch assembly bolts (70) and pressure switch assembly (69). 5.
Accumulator cover bolts (58 and 59) and 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57). 6. 1-2
accumulator piston (56) and seal (55). 7. Spring (54). 8. Dipstick stop bracket (93).
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Bolt (64) and manual detent spring assembly (63).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8582
2. Wiring harness retaining bolts.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Remaining valve body bolts (62). 2. Manual valve link (89). 3. Control valve assembly (60). 4.
Bolts (58 and 59), accumulator cover (57), piston (56, spring (54) and spring (54A). 5. Bolts (77)
and plate (53). 6. Spacer plate (48) and spacer plate gaskets (47 and 52). 7. Spring (46), piston
(44), and pin (43).
- Seven checkballs are located under the valve body and one is located in the case. The large
copper flash colored ball is # 1A checkball (91).
Valve Body and Associated Parts
VALVE BODY AND ASSOCIATED PARTS
Accumulator Assembly, Spacer Plate And Gaskets
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8583
Case Checkballs And Filters
TOOL REQUIRED:
- J 25025-5 Guide Pins
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined corners that are necessary for
"cleaning" the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, "micro fine" lapping
compound 900 grit or finer should be used. Too much "lapping" of a valve will cause excessive
clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. The wiring harness pass-thru connector into the case. 2. The 3-4 accumulator pin (43) into the
case. 3. The 3-4 accumulator piston seal (45) onto the 3-4 accumulator piston. 4. The 3-4
accumulator piston (44) onto the pin.
- The end with three legs must face the valve body.
5. The 3-4 accumulator piston spring (46).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkball (91) into case as shown.
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. J 25025-5 into the case. 3. Screens onto spacer plate as shown. 4. Spacer plate to case gasket
(47) and spacer plate to valve body gasket (52) onto the spacer plate (48).
- Gasket (47) identified by a "C". Gasket (52) identified by a "V".
- Retain with Transjel TM J 36850 or equivalent.
5. Spacer plate and gaskets onto the case.
IMPORTANT
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the spacer plate and gaskets.
6. Spacer plate support (53) and bolts (77).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.)
Control Valve Body
CONTROL VALVE BODY
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8584
Case Checkballs And Filters
Filter Screen - Locations
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8585
Control Valve Assembly
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8586
Control Valve Assembly - Legend
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8587
Valve Body Checkball Locations
Valve Body Bolt Locations
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8588
Manual Valve Link
Outside Electrical Connector
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly thoroughly in clean solvent. A. Move the valves with a pick or small
screwdriver to dislodge any dirt or debris that may have accumulated. B. Air dry.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT
- Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing roll pins and retainer clips.
- Valves, springs and bushings must be laid out on a clean surface in the exact sequence they are
removed.
1. Pressure control solenoid retainer bolt (364) retainer (378) and solenoid. 2. Bore plug retainer
clip (395), bore plug (376) and valve train (374 and 375). 3. 2-3 shift solenoid retainer (379),
solenoid (367) and valve train (368 and 369). 4. 1-2 shift solenoid retainer (379), solenoid (367)
and valve train (365 and 366). 5. Accumulator valve train retainer pin (360), bore plug (373) and
valve train (370 and 371). 6. Forward accumulator cover bolts (364) and cover (363). 7. Forward
accumulator spring (356), piston (354) and pin (355). 8. Lo overrun valve spring (362) and valve
(361). 9. Retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and forward abuse valve train (357 and 358).
10. Manual valve (340). 11. 3-2 control solenoid retainer clip (379) and solenoid (394).
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Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8589
12. Bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and 3-2 control valve train (391 - 393). 13. 3-2
downshift bore plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (389 - 390). 14. Reverse abuse
bore plug retainer pin (360), bore plug (359) and valve train (387 - 388). 15. 3-4 shift valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve train (385 - 386). 16. 3-4 relay bore plug retainer
(395), bore plug (381) and valve train (382 - 384). 17. Torque converter clutch signal valve bore
plug retainer (395), bore plug (381) and valve (380).
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings and control valve body in clean solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
- All valves and bushings for: Porosity
- Scoring
- Nicks
- Scratches
- Springs for damaged or distorted coils.
- Valve body casting for: Porosity
- Cracks
- Inter connected oil passages
- Damaged machined surfaces
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly (350) exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and bushing passages.
- Position the pressure control solenoid so the connector tabs face outward.
NOTICE: TCC PWM solenoid (396) cannot be installed until TCC solenoid has been installed and
torqued to proper specifications.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Checkballs into the valve body assembly (350).
- Retain with Transjell TM J 36850 or equivalent.
2. Valve body assembly (350).
- Connect the manual valve link (89) to the inside detent lever (88).
- Be careful not to damage screens when installing the valve body assembly.
3. Wiring harness (66), manual spring assembly (63), pressure switch assembly(69), dipstick, stop
bracket (93) and all remaining valve body bolts.
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
4. TCC solenoid (66) and bolts (68).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
5. TCC PWM solenoid (396), and retainer clip (379).
INSTALL OR CONNECT
- Wiring harness connections to electrical components.
- To correctly hook up the wires, see the wiring diagrams.
- The pressure control solenoid (377) has two different colored connectors. The black connector
should be installed on the tab farthest from the valve body.
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Parking bracket (86).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts to 31 Nm (23 lb. ft.).
2. The 1-2 accumulator piston seal (55) onto the 1-2 accumulator piston (56). 3. The 1-2
accumulator spring (54) and 1-2 accumulator inner spring (54A) onto the piston (56). 4. The 1-2
accumulator piston (56) into the 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57).
- The three legs on the piston must face away from the case when installed.
5. The 1-2 accumulator cover and pin assembly (57) onto the case.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8590
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 11 Nm (8 lb. ft.).
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Case, Pan And Filter Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Filter seal (71) into the pump. 2. Oil filter (72). 3. Oil pan gasket (73). 4. Chip magnet (74) onto
oil pan (75). 5. Oil pan (75) and bolts (76).
TIGHTEN
- Torque to 12 Nm (9 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8591
Shift Solenoid: Service and Repair 4L80-E Automatic Transmission
Pan and Filter Assembly
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Drain the transmission fluid Out case extension by rotating transmission to a vertical position. 2.
Seventeen bolts (27), using 10 mm socket, drain transmission fluid. 3. Pan (28), seal (29) and
magnet (30).
IMPORTANT
- Seal (29) is reusable.
4. Filter assembly (31).
INSPECT
- Filter neck seal (32), replace if necessary.
Wire Harness Assembly
WIRE HARNESS ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8592
Pan, Filter And Seal Removal
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Wire harness connectors from electrical components.
NOTICE: Excessive force on the case pass through connector may damage the connector.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
2. Wire harness assembly (34) from case using a 1-5/16" 12 point socket to release the connector
retaining clips.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8593
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
1. Rotate transmission bottom pan surface up and lock in place. 2. Wire harness assembly (34)
connectors from components.
IMPORTANT
- If the wire harness assembly does not need servicing, it is not necessary to remove it from the
case.
- Use a cap to cover electrical pin at case connection.
3. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket, and transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40).
NOTICE: Be sure five O-rings are attached to transmission fluid pressure switch assembly.
4. Twenty-one bolts (35) using 10 mm socket, from valve body assembly, manual detent spring and
roller assembly (41). 5. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid level indicator stop (43), one bolt (36) using
10 mm socket, lube pipe (39), lube pipe retainer (37) and clamp (38). 6. Control valve assembly
(44) including the accumulator housing assembly (51), valve body gaskets (45 and 48), spacer
plate (46) and accumulator
gasket (47).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8594
7. Manual valve (319) from control valve assembly (44) to prevent any damage. 8. Checkballs (54)
from case passages.
NOTICE: Do not use a magnet. It could cause checkball(s) to be magnetized causing metal
particles to stick to the ball.
9. Pulse Width Modulated (PWM) solenoid screen (75).
INSPECT
- Screen PWM solenoid (75), replace if necessary.
DISASSEMBLE
Control Valve Assembly
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8595
- Control valve assembly. A. Position as shown on a clean surface. B. Remove blind hole retainer
pins with a drill bit.
CAUTION: Some valves are under pressure - cover the bores while removing the retaining pins or
personal injury could result.
C. Remove valve trains, shift solenoids (311 and 313), PCS (320), PWM solenoid (323), PCS
screen (302) and shift solenoid filter (317). D. Valves, springs, bushings and pistons must be laid
out on a clean surface.
CLEAN
- All valves, springs, bushings, pistons, control valve body and accumulator housing in clean
solvent.
- Dry using compressed air.
INSPECT
1. All valves, pistons and bushings for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
2. Pistons for:
- Seal damage.
3. Springs for:
- Damaged or distorted coils.
4. Valve body casting and accumulator housing for:
- Porosity.
- Cracks.
- Interconnected passages.
- Damaged machined surfaces.
5. Solenoid connectors and filter (317). 6. PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid) screen (302).
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY/ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8596
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8597
Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8598
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8599
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8600
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: The use of a honing stone, fine sandpaper or crocus cloth is not recommended for
servicing stuck valves. All valve lands have sharply machined comers that are necessary for
cleaning the bore. If these corners are rounded, foreign material could wedge between the valve
and the bore causing the valve to stick. If it is found necessary to clean a valve, micro fine lapping
compound 900 grit (J 38459) or finer should be used. Too much lapping of the valve will cause
excessive clearances and increase the chance of a valve not operating.
CLEAN
- Control valve assembly and accumulator housing (51) thoroughly in clean solvent.
- Air dry.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8601
Accumulator Housing Assembly
ACCUMULATOR HOUSING ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8602
Accumulator Housing Assembly
DISASSEMBLE
1. Six bolts (53), using 8 mm socket. 2. Accumulator housing assembly. 3. Gasket accumulator
housing (47). 4. Spacer plate (46). 5. Gasket (45) valve body spacer. 6. Snap ring (402) from
outside housing, pin (408), snap ring (402), piston (407) and spring (49). 7. 3rd clutch piston (405)
and spring (50). 8. Seals (404 and 406).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8603
CLEAN
- All components.
INSPECT
- All valves, pistons, springs and seals for:
- Porosity.
- Scoring.
- Nicks.
- Scratches.
Accumulator Housing Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8604
ASSEMBLE
- Accumulator housing assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the positions of the pistons.
Control Valve Assembly
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY
Control Valve Assembly
ASSEMBLE
- Control valve assembly components exactly as shown. Notice the position of the valve lands and
bushing passages.
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8605
CONTROL VALVE ASSEMBLY AND ACCUMULATOR HOUSING
Control Valve Assembly/Accumulator Housing
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
TOOL REQUIRED:
- Guide Pin J 25025-5
ASSEMBLE
1. Guide pin J 25025-5 into valve body. Located at back bolt hole of detent spring and roller
assembly bolt bole. 2. Gasket (45) valve body to spacer plate. 3. Spacer plate (46). 4. Gasket (47)
accumulator housing to spacer plate. 5. Accumulator housing assembly (51) onto valve body
assembly (44).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8606
6. Six bolts (53) using (8 mm) socket through accumulator housing into valve body assembly.
Torque Sequence And Guide Pin Location
NOTE: Start accumulator housing bolts finger tight and work towards opposite end.
TIGHTEN
- Bolt (53) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
7. Remove guide pin J 25025-5.
Fig. 11 Check Ball Location.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8607
Fig. 10 Control Valve Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8608
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Install checkballs (54) in proper location into case fluid passages. Use TRANSJEL TM J 36850
or equivalent to hold in place.
NOTICE: Do not use any type of grease to retain parts during assembly of this unit. Greases other
than the recommended assembly lube will change transmission fluid characteristics and cause
undesirable shift conditions and/or filter clogging.
- # 2 checkball is used only on RCP RDP, ZJP and ZLP models.
2. PWM solenoid screen (75).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8609
3. Gasket (48) spacer plate to case. 4. Manual valve (319) into valve body. 5. Complete valve body
assembly (44) onto case (7). Use 1 25025-5 guide pin set.
IMPORTANT
- Attach manual valve to detent lever.
6. Transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40) onto valve body assembly (44). 7. Spring and
roller assembly (41) into place. 8. Three wiring clamps (33), fluid indicator stop (43) and lube pipe
clamp (38). 9. Twenty-one bolts (35). Using 10 mm socket.
10. Six bolts (76) using 8 mm socket into transmission fluid pressure switch assembly (40). 11.
Lube pipe (39) long end into case, short end into valve body. 12. Lube pipe retainer (37) with short
bolt (36).
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (35, 36 and 76) to 11 Nm (97 lb. in.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8610
Torque Sequence, Control Valve And Switch Assembly
NOTICE: Torque valve body bolts in a spiral pattern starting from the center. If bolts are torqued at
random, valve bores may be distorted and inhibit valve operation.
13. Attach wiring harness (34) to 5 connectors.
- Put large end into case first, pressure switch hook up, 1-2 shift solenoid (purple) and 2-3 shift
solenoid (tan), PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) solenoid and PCS (Pressure Control Solenoid).
Pan and Filter Assembly
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Shift Solenoid, A/T > Component Information > Service and
Repair > 4L60-E Automatic Transmission > Page 8611
PAN AND FILTER ASSEMBLY
Installing Pan And Filter
INSTALL OR CONNECT
1. Seal (32) inside of case (7). 2. Filter assembly (31). 3. Bottom pan seal (29). 4. Magnet (30) into
bottom pan. 5. Pan (29). 6. Seventeen bolts (27) using 10 mm socket.
TIGHTEN
- Bolts (27) to 24 Nm (18 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: Customer Interest A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8620
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: > 01-07-30-023B >
Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8621
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear
Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-023B
Date: March, 2002
TECHNICAL
Subject: Harsh 1-2 Upshift, SES, MIL, or CEL Illuminated, DTC P1870 Set (Replace Valve Body)
Models: 1996 Buick Roadmaster 1996 Cadillac Fleetwood 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade
1996-2000 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1996-2000 Pontiac Firebird 1996-2000 Chevrolet and
GMC Light Duty Truck Models 1996-2000 Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60-E Automatic
Transmission (RPO M30) Built Prior to January 15, 2000 (Julian Date 0015)
This bulletin is being revised to update VIN Breakpoint Date information and revise the Parts
Information table. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 01-07-30-023A (Section 07 Transmission/Transaxle).
Condition
Some customers may comment on a harsh 1-2 upshift and the Check Engine Light or Service
Engine Soon indicator is illuminated.
Diagnosis
Typically, these vehicles will have been driven more than 32,000 km (20,000 mi) before this
condition occurs.
The scan tool may show a DTC P1870 set as a history code.
A harsh 1-2 shift or DTC P1870, caused by wear in the control valve body, may be difficult to
duplicate when the transmission temperature is below 93° C (200°F).
Cause
The condition may be due to wear in the control valve body. This wear occurs in the bore that
contains the TCC isolator and regulator valves, and results in poor, or no, TCC apply.
Important:
^ DTC P1870 is a type B code. The conditions for setting the P1870 DTC must occur on TWO
CONSECUTIVE TRIPS (ignition cycles, with a drive cycle) before setting a P1870 history code.
^ When the conditions for setting DTC P1870 are met (first trip), the PCM commands maximum line
pressure and harsh 1-2 shifts are the result.
^ This may result in a harsh 1-2 shift with no history code if the conditions for setting the DTC
required for the second trip are not met, on two consecutive trips (Ignition cycles, with a drive
cycle).
^ When the conditions for setting the DTC are met, on the second consecutive trip, a DTC P1870 is
stored as a history code.
^ When the P1870 code is stored, the PCM will turn on the Service Engine Soon (SES), Check
Engine Light (CEL), or Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL).
Correction
Install a control valve body with the revised TCC regulator and isolator valves. Refer to the Parts
Information table below. These valves are used in all transmissions produced after January 15,
2000 (Julian Date 0015), and all of the service parts currently available through GMSPO contain
revised TCC
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8627
regulator and isolator valves.
Important:
If all of the following conditions are true, it is not necessary to rebuild the transmission or to replace
additional transmission components beyond the control valve body.
^ Transmission operation is normal before the transmission reaches operating temperature, or
before DTC P1870 is set (no slips, flares, or missing gears).
^ The torque converter is not blue or overheated.
^ The transmission fluid is not burned or has no burned odor
^ The transmission fluid pan contains no abnormal debris (clutch material, bronze, brass, or metal
fragments).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Actuators and Solenoids Transmission and Drivetrain > Actuators and Solenoids - A/T > Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid: >
01-07-30-023B > Mar > 02 > A/T - 4L60-E Harsh 1-2 Gear Upshift/MIL/SES/CEL ON > Page 8628
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or
4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: Customer Interest A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or
4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8639
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Relays and Modules Transmission and Drivetrain > Relays and Modules - A/T > Control Module, A/T > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Control Module: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8645
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch
Connector Cannot Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8654
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Locations Park/Neutral Position Switch
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Locations > Park/Neutral Position and Backup Lamp Switch > Page 8655
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8658
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8659
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8660
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8661
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8662
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8663
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8664
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8665
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8666
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8667
^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8668
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8669
4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8670
test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8684
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8685
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8686
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8687
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8688
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8689
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8690
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Connector Views
C1: Transmission Range Switch
C2: Transmission Range Switch
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8691
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Electrical Diagrams
Electronic PRNDL
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8692
Starter And Charging (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8693
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Testing and Inspection
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8694
Pressure Switch Assembly Resistance Check (2 Of 2)
Tools Required
- J 39775 4L60E Jumper Harness
- J 39200 Digital Multimeter
- J 35616 Connector Test Adapter Kit
Important: Whenever the transmission 20-way connector is disconnected and the engine is
running, multiple DTCs will set. Be sure to clear these codes when you are finished with this
procedure
Important: This procedure tests the Automatic Transmission Fluid Pressure Manual Valve Position
Switch (TFP Val. Position Sw.) circuits and the Automatic Transmission Fluid Temperature (TFT)
Sensor circuit. Do not use this procedure to test other Automatic Transmission circuits, refer to
4L60-E Automatic Transmission Internal Wiring Harness check.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8695
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Adjustments
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8696
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8697
Transmission Position Switch/Sensor: Service and Repair
PARK/NEUTRAL POSITION SWITCH REPLACEMENT/ADJUSTMENT
- Tool Required: J 41364-A Neutral Position Adjustment Tool
- Apply the parking brake.
- Shift the transmission into neutral.
REMOVE OR DISCONNECT
IMPORTANT: The transmission must be positioned into the mechanical neutral position prior to
performing this adjustment procedure. The transmission control lever can be positioned to
mechanical neutral position by rotating the control lever clockwise until it reaches it's full stop
position, and then moving the shift control lever counter-clockwise two detents.
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Shift cable end from the transmission shift control lever by pulling the
cable end from the transmission shift control lever stud ball. 3. Nut securing the transmission shift
control lever to the manual shaft. 4. Wiring harness connector from the switch. 5. Two bolts
securing the switch to the transmission. 6. Switch from the manual shaft.
- If the switch does not slide off of the manual shaft, lightly file the outer edge of the manual shaft to
remove any burrs from the shaft.
INSTALL OF CONNECT
ADJUST
1. Position Tool J 41364-A onto the park/neutral position switch. Ensure that the two slots on the
switch(where manual shaft is inserted) are lined up
with the lower two tabs on the tool. Rotate the tool until the upper locator pin on the tool is lined up
with the slot on the top of the switch
2. Switch to the transmission manual shaft.
- Before sliding the switch onto shaft, it may be necessary to lightly file the outer edge of the shaft
to remove any burrs from the shaft.
- Align the switch hub flats with the manual shaft flats.
- Slide the switch onto the transmission manual shaft until the switch mounting bracket contacts the
mounting bosses on the transmission.
3. Switch to transmission with two bolts.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Position Switch/Sensor, A/T > Component
Information > Diagrams > Page 8698
TIGHTEN
- Bolts securing the switch to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
4. Remove Tool J 41364 from the switch. 5. Wiring harness connectors to the switch. 6.
Transmission control lever to the manual shaft. 7. Transmission control lever to the manual shaft
with the nut.
TIGHTEN
- Control lever nut to 28 Nm (21 lb. ft.).
8. Lower vehicle 9. Negative battery cable.
INSPECT
1. Check the switch for proper operation.
- The engine must start in the "P" (Park) or "N" (Neutral) positions only. If adjustments is required,
loosening the switch retaining bolts and rotate the switch slightly, then tighten the bolts and check
the switch for proper operation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Transmission and Drivetrain > Transmission Control Systems > Sensors and Switches Transmission and Drivetrain > Sensors and Switches - A/T > Transmission Speed Sensor, A/T > Component Information >
Locations > Transmission Output Speed Sensor, 4L80E > Page 8703
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission W/4WD
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > ABS Main
Relay > Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
The relay is located inside the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) and cannot be serviced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68
Brake Fluid Pump: Technical Service Bulletins ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68
File In Section: 5 - Brakes 1
Bulletin No.: 66-50-10
Date: August, 1996
SERVICE MANUAL UPDATE
Subject: Section 5E1 - Antilock Brake System (ABS) - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68
Models: 1996 Chevrolet and GMC M/L, C/K, G, S Models with 2.2L Engine (VIN 4 - RPO LN2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8713
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8714
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8715
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8716
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8717
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Brake Fluid
Pump > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > ABS - Revised DTC Tables 67 and 68 > Page 8718
This bulletin revises Diagnostic Trouble Code tables 67, "Pump Motor Circuit Open" and 68 "Pump
Motor Locked or Pump Motor Circuit Shorted" for Section 5E1.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Braking
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair
Braking Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Stop Lamp Switch
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR. 3. Retainer from brake pedal pin. Use snap ring pliers. 4.
Switch by unsnapping from pushrod. 5. Electrical connector from switch.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connector into switch. 2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod. 3. Retainer onto brake
pedal pin. Use 11mm (7/16 inch) socket to push new clip on pin. 4. Negative battery cable. 5.
Enable SIR.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
The Electronic Brake Control Unit (EBCM) is mounted to the top of the Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve (BPMV) and is housed in aluminum with a black plastic top.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Electronic
Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 8725
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 226 EBCM Replacement.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove bolts securing shield (if equipped) and BPMV to EHCU mounting bracket, Fig. 226, then
disconnect (EBCM) Electronic Brake Control
Module electrical connectors.
3. Remove Torx bolts securing EBCM to BPMV, then separate EBCM from BPMV.
Do not pry on components to separate.
4. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Install a new EBCM gasket and mounting bolts. Do not use any gasket sealant. b. Torque EBCM
to BPMV bolts to 39 inch lbs. in a crisscross pattern.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 8729
Vehicle Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Hydraulic
Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 8730
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Service and Repair
The BPMV is not serviceable and must be replaced as a unit.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Disconnect four EBCM electrical connectors.
3. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector and brake pipes.
Use shop towels to prevent brake fluid spillage.
4. Disconnect hydraulic lines at BPMV tube adapters, then remove EHCU from vehicle.
5. Remove four Torx bolts from EBCM, then separate BPMV from EBCM.
Do not pry on components to separate.
6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Install a new EBCM gasket, mounting bolts and transfer tubes. Do not reuse these components.
b. Torque combination valve bolts alternately to 6 ft. lbs., then to 12 ft. lbs. c. Torque EBCM Torx
bolts to 39 inch lbs. in a crisscross pattern. d. Torque EHCU to base bracket bolts and BPMV bolts
to 7 ft. lbs. e. Torque brake pipe fittings to 18 ft. lbs., then bleed brake system. See: Brake Bleeding
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Speed Sensor: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: Customer Interest Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Wheel Speed Sensor: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 8739
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed Sensor: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS
Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed Sensor: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 8745
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8746
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
2WD Sensor Resistance 1575 to 2420 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
1980 to 2800 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2250 to 3280 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
2750 to 3850 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
4WD Sensor Resistance 1900 to 2950 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
2420 to 3450 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2610 to 4100 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
3320 to 4760 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations LH
front At LH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH > Page 8749
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations RH
front At RH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly. 2. Disconnect brake caliper
assembly and position aside. 3. Remove hub and rotor assembly. 4. Disconnect wheel sensor
electrical connector. 5. Remove sensor wire form upper control arm clip. 6. Remove sensor and
splash shield assembly attaching bolts, then remove sensor. 7. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Antilock Brakes / Traction Control Systems > Wheel Speed
Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 8752
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 58 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove brake drum.
3. Remove primary brake shoe.
4. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove sensor wire from rear axle clip.
6. Remove speed sensor attaching bolts, Fig. 58, then remove sensor by pulling wire through hole
in backing plate.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Torque speed sensor attaching bolts to 26 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
BLEEDING PROCEDURES
Important: Never pump the brake pedal. Fluid cavitation may occur.
NOTICE: Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
1. Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed
screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen. 2. Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear
wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front. 3. Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full
turn. 4. Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw
has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait
10-15 seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.
Important: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from
each wheel. Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws. Check the
master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.
5. If any component is replaced which may have caused air to enter the BPMV, use a Scan Tool to
run "Function Test" four times while applying the
brake pedal firmly.
Important: Set the park brake when running the "Function Test."
6. Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake
system. 7. Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as
many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
1. Install pressure bleeder per instructions. 2. Install combination valve depressing tool J391 77 if
the vehicle is equipped with the metering portion of the combination valve. Remove both dust
caps on the combination valve. Install the tool on the end of the combination valve with a brass
center pin.
3. Bleed all four wheels beginning at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
Leave the bleed screws open until 1 pint of fluid
has been bled out of each wheel.
4. After bleeding all four wheels1 remove the combination valve clip. Use a Scan Tool to run 4
functional tests while applying the brake pedal
firmly.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 3 then evaluate the pedal feel. 6. Rebleed the wheels as many times as
necessary to obtain good pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle. A good bleed will use
approximately 2 to 3 quarts of brake fluid.
Important: Never reuse brake fluid after it has been bled through a brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8757
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Bleeding
This procedure can be performed with master cylinder on or off vehicle.
1. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder, if necessary.
2. Connect suitable lengths of brake lines to master cylinder and immerse other ends of lines in
master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Apply master cylinder pushrod or brake pedal with full strokes until air bubbles have disappeared
in reservoirs. It may require 20-30 applications to fully eliminate air bubbles.
4. Remove bleeding lines from master cylinder, then install master cylinder on vehicle, if necessary,
and connect brake lines.
It is not necessary to bleed entire hydraulic system after replacing master cylinder, providing
master cylinder has been bled and filled during installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8758
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System
Pressure Bleeding
Pressure Bleeding
A diaphragm type pressure bleeder must be used. It must have a rubber diaphragm between the
air supply and brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil, and other contaminants from entering the
hydraulic system.
NOTICE: Brake fluid can damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always
re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: Brake Bleeder Adapter J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the pressure tank at least 2,3 full of brake fluid. The bleeder must be bled each time fluid is
added. 2. Charge the bleeder to 140 - 170 kPa ( 20-25 psi ).
3. Install the bleeder adapter. 4. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have
air trapped inside, it must be bled next. 5. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front. D. Left front.
6. Connect the hose from the bleeder to the adapter at the master cylinder. 7. Open the tank valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8759
8. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder valve at least 3/4 of a turn and allow the fluid to flow until no air is seen in the
fluid.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ). 11. Repeat Steps 9 through 11 at all wheels.
12. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess."
^ Repeat the entire bleeding procedure if this condition is found.
13. Disconnect the hose from the bleeder adapter. 14. Remove the bleeder adapter. 15. Fill the
master cylinder to the proper level.
Manual Bleeding
BLEEDING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
Bleeding is necessary if air has entered the hydraulic brake system. It may be necessary to bleed
the system at all four wheels if a low fluid level allowed the air to enter the system or the brake
pipes have been disconnected at the master cylinder or combination valve. If a pipe is
disconnected at one wheel, then bleed only that wheel.
The time required to bleed the hydraulic system when the master cylinder is removed can be
reduced by bench bleeding the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle.
Manual Bleeding
If the vehicle is equipped with a vacuum booster, relieve the vacuum reserve by applying the
brakes several times with the engine off.
NOTICE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent the brake fluid from contacting these areas.
Always re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® Hydraulic Brake Fluid GM P/N
1052535 or an equivalent DOT 3 motor vehicle brake
fluid.
^ Maintain the fluid level during bleeding.
2. If the master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, bleed it before any wheel cylinder or
caliper.
A. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. B. Allow the brake fluid to
flow from the connector port. C. Connect the brake pipe but do not tighten. D. Slowly apply the
brake pedal and allow the air to bleed from the loose fitting. E. Tighten the fitting before releasing
the pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Bleeding > System Information > Service and Repair >
Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8760
F. Wait 15 seconds. G. Repeat this sequence, including the 1 5-second wait, until all air is purged
from the bore. H. After all air has been removed from the forward connection, repeat this procedure
for the rear pipe.
3. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have air trapped inside, it must be
bled next. 4. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front D. Left front
5. Attach a hose to the wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
6. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 7. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air
from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 8. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ) and slowly
release the pedal. 9. Wait 15 seconds.
10. Repeat this sequence, including the 15-second wait until all air is purged from the wheel
cylinder/caliper. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 at each wheel until the system is bled. 12. Check
the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the brake warning lamp for an indication of unbalanced
pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to
correct either of these conditions.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8765
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8766
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8767
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8768
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8769
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8770
Brake Warning Indicator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8771
Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8772
DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8773
Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8788
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8789
See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8790
Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8791
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8792
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8793
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8794
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8795
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8796
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 8797
Brake Warning System
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 8798
Brake Warning Indicator: Description and Operation
Battery voltage is applied through the GAGES FUSE 4 to the "BRAKE" Indicator when the Ignition
Switch is in the RUN, BULB TEST or START positions. The "BRAKE" Indicator can be lit by having
ground applied to it from any of three switches or the Antilock Brake Module.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light whenever the Parking Brake is engaged. When the Parking Brake
is engaged, ground is supplied through the closed contacts of the Parking Brake Warning Switch to
the "BRAKE" Indicator. The "BRAKE" Indicator lights to alert the driver that the Parking Brake is
engaged.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light when the Ignition Switch is turned from the "LOCK" to the RUN
position. This is when the Antilock Brake Module conducts its initial test which entails lighting the
"BRAKE" Indicator and the ABS Indicator. The Antilock Brake Module will also light the "BRAKE"
Indicator if there is a malfunction within the Four Wheel Antilock Brake System which is affecting
the operation of the base Hydraulic Braking system.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light if there is low Brake fluid pressure in the front or rear Brakes.
When the Combination Valve senses low Brake fluid pressure in the front or rear brakes it closes
the Brake Pressure Warning Switch. A ground is supplied through the closed contacts of the Brake
Pressure Warning Switch to the "BRAKE" Indicator. With both power and ground applied to the
"BRAKE" Indication it will light.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will also light whenever the Ignition Switch is turned to the BULB TEST
position.
The Daytime Running Lamps Module senses ground through the Park Brake Warning Switch.
When this input is grounded, the Daytime Running Lamps are not energized. Diode D202 prevents
Anti-Lock Brake Module or Brake Pressure Warning Switch operation from turning off the Daytime
Running Lamps.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will also light whenever the Ignition Switch is turned to the BULB TEST
Position.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Brake Warning Indicator: Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview
Circuit Operation
Battery voltage is applied through the GAGES FUSE 4 to the "BRAKE" Indicator when the Ignition
Switch is in the RUN, BULB TEST or START positions. The "BRAKE" Indicator can be lit by having
ground applied to it from any of three switches or the Antilock Brake Module.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light whenever the Parking Brake is engaged. When the Parking Brake
is engaged, ground is supplied through the closed contacts of the Parking Brake Warning Switch to
the "BRAKE" Indicator. The "BRAKE" Indicator lights to alert the driver that the Parking Brake is
engaged.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light when the Ignition Switch is turned from the "LOCK" to the RUN
position. This is when the Antilock Brake Module conducts its initial test which entails lighting the
"BRAKE" Indicator and the ABS Indicator. The Antilock Brake Module will also light the "BRAKE"
Indicator if there is a malfunction within the Four Wheel Antilock Brake System which is affecting
the operation of the base Hydraulic Braking system.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will light if there is low Brake fluid pressure in the front or rear Brakes.
When the Combination Valve senses low Brake fluid pressure in the front or rear brakes it closes
the Brake Pressure Warning Switch. A ground is supplied through the closed contacts of the Brake
Pressure Warning Switch to the "BRAKE" Indicator. With both power and ground applied to the
"BRAKE" Indication it will light.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will also light whenever the Ignition Switch is turned to the BULB TEST
position.
The Daytime Running Lamps Module senses ground through the Park Brake Warning Switch.
When this input is grounded, the Daytime Running Lamps are not energized. Diode D202 prevents
Anti-Lock Brake Module or Brake Pressure Warning Switch operation from turning off the Daytime
Running Lamps.
The "BRAKE" Indicator will also light whenever the Ignition Switch is turned to the BULB TEST
Position.
Troubleshooting Hints
1. CHECK condition of GAGES FUSE 4. If Fuse is Open, LOCATE and REPAIR source of
overload and REPLACE Fuse. 2. CHECK that Engine Ground G105 is clean and tight. 3. CHECK
the "BRAKE" Indicator Bulb for an open filament. 4. CHECK that the Parking Brake is fully
released. 5. Make sure that there is an adequate amount of Brake fluid in the reservoir. 6. If any
ABS Diagnostic Codes are Set, Refer Antilock Brake System See: Antilock Brakes / Traction
Control Systems 7. If the Brake Indicator only lights for the Brake Pressure Warning Switch or for
the Anti-Lock Brake Module (Ignition Switch Lock to RUN), then
Diode D202 may have opened.
8. If the Brake Indicator only lights for the Ignition Switch in BULB test or for the Park Brake
Warning Switch, then Diode 1 in the Underhood
Fuse-Relay Center may have opened.
^ CHECK for a broken (or partially broken) wire inside of the insulation which could cause system
malfunction but prove "GOOD" in a Continuity/Voltage check with a system disconnected. These
Circuits may be intermittent or resistive when loaded, and if possible, should be checked by
monitoring for a Voltage drop with the system operational (under load).
^ CHECK for proper installation of aftermarket electronic equipment which may affect the integrity
of other systems (Refer "Troubleshooting Procedures"). See: Diagrams/Diagnostic Aids
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 8801
Brake Warning Indicator: Symptom Related Diagnostic Procedures
Brake Indicator Is Inoperative (Part 1 Of 2)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Brake Warning Indicator > Component Information > Testing
and Inspection > Initial Inspection and Diagnostic Overview > Page 8802
Brake Indicator Is Inoperative (Part 2 Of 2)
Brake Indicator Remains On Continuously
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Bleeder Valve 9.5 ft.lb
Brake Hose To Caliper Bolt 33 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt 28 ft.lb
Caliper Support Key Bolt 15 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Anchor Plate To Axle 177 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8808
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Bleeder Valve (Delco) 5 ft.lb
Bleeder Valve (Bendix) 9.5 ft.lb
Brake Hose To Caliper Bolt 33 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt 38 ft.lb
Caliper Support Key Bolt 15 ft.lb
Rear Brake Anchor Pin Vehicles w/ gross vehicle weight of 7200 lbs., 147 ft. lbs.
Vehicles at or above gross vehicle weight of 8400 lbs., 228
ft. lbs.
Rear Caliper Anchor Plate To Axle 177 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Fig. 1 Disc Brake Assembly
The Bendix single piston sliding caliper disc brake is standard equipment on some truck
applications, while on other trucks it is used only in Hydro-Boost power brake applications with both
front disc brakes and 4 wheel disc brakes. On 4 wheel disc brakes, the front and rear systems are
identical. The sliding caliper attaches to and slides on the steering knuckle. The caliper assembly is
held in place with a support key and spring Fig. 1. A screw prevents the key from sliding on the
steering knuckle. The friction material is bonded with rivets. The inboard and outboard brake pads
are not interchangeable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8811
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation Delco-Moraine Single Piston Caliper
With Delco-Moraine 3400 Caliper
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly.
The caliper assembly slides on its mounting surfaces, Fig. 2. Upon brake application, hydraulic
pressure against the piston forces the inboard pad against the inboard side of the disc. This action
causes the caliper assembly to slide until the outboard pad comes into contact with the disc, which
in turn creates a slowing or stopping action.
With Delco-Moraine 3486 Caliper
Fig. 3 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly.
The caliper assembly slides on its mounting surfaces, Fig. 3. Upon brake application, hydraulic
pressure against the piston forces the inboard pad against the inboard side of the disc. This action
causes the caliper assembly to slide until the outboard pad comes into contact with the disc, which
in turn creates a slowing or stopping action.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 8812
Brake Caliper: Testing and Inspection
Should it become necessary to remove the caliper for installation of new parts, clean all parts in
denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out drilled passages
and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are evident, new boots
should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However,
bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of the bore is not
increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper
housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused by piston seals and will do
no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before honing bore. The baffle is
used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper after
honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured alcohol. Wipe dry with clean
lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Removal/Installation
REMOVAL
Fig. 2 Bottoming Position In Bore
Fig. 3 Removing Caliper Support Key
Fig. 4 Removing Or Installing Caliper
1. Siphon two-thirds of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir serving front disc brakes.
2. Raise vehicle, support on jack stands and remove front wheels.
3. Bottom the caliper piston in bore. Insert a screwdriver between inboard shoe and piston, then pry
piston back into bore. The piston can also be bottomed in the bore with a large C-clamp, Fig. 2.
4. Remove support key retaining screw.
5. Drive caliper support key and spring from steering knuckle with a suitable drift and hammer, Fig.
3.
6. Lift caliper from anchor plate and off rotor, Fig. 4. Hang caliper from coil spring with wire. Do not
allow caliper to hang from brake hose.
7. Remove inboard pad from steering knuckle, then the anti-rattle spring from the pad.
8. Remove outboard pad from caliper. It may be necessary to loosen the pad with a hammer to
permit removal.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean and lubricate sliding surfaces of caliper and the anchor plate with Delco Silicone Lube,
P/N 5459912, or equivalent.
2. Install anti-rattle spring on inboard pad, and ensure looped section of clip is facing away from
rotor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8815
3. Install inboard pad in steering knuckle.
4. Install outboard pad in caliper. Ensure pad is seated fully into outboard arms of caliper. It may be
necessary to tap the ears and bottom tab with a hammer to seat the pad being careful not to hit the
friction material.
5. Place caliper assembly over rotor and position in steering knuckle. Ensure dust boot is not torn
or improperly positioned by inboard pad during caliper installation.
6. Align caliper with steering knuckle abutment surfaces, then insert support key and spring
between abutment surfaces at the trailing end of caliper and steering knuckle. With a hammer and
brass drift, drive caliper support key and spring into position, then install and torque support key
retaining screw to 12-18 ft. lbs.
7. Refill master cylinder to within one inch of rim. Press brake pedal several times to seat pads.
8. Install front wheels and lower vehicle.
Disassembly/Inspection/Assembly
DISASSEMBLY
Fig. 5 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 6 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
1. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
2. Position caliper with shop cloths, Fig. 5, and apply compressed air to fluid inlet port to ease
piston from bore. Do not attempt to catch piston or to protect it when applying compressed air,
since personal injury is possible.
3. Remove dust boot, then the piston seal from bore, Fig. 6. Use wooden or plastic tool to remove
piston seal since metal tools may damage piston.
4. Remove bleeder screw
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out
drilled passages and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are
evident, new boots should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for
scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus
cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of
the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this
specification, a new caliper housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused
by piston seals and will do no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before
honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in
cleaning the caliper after honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured
alcohol. Wipe dry with clean lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8816
Fig. 7 Installing Caliper Piston Boot
Fig. 8 Installing Piston In Caliper
1. Coat square cut piston seal with clean brake fluid, then install seal into piston bore. Work seal
into groove with clean fingers.
2. Install and torque bleeder screw to specifications.
3. Lubricate boot and installation tool No. J-24548 with clean brake fluid, then place dust seal on
tool, allowing 1/4 inch of tool to extend past small lip of boot, Fig. 7.
4. Place dust seal and tool over piston bore, then work large lip of boot into seal groove, Fig. 8.
Ensure dust seal is fully seated.
5. Lubricate caliper piston and insert through tool. Center piston in bore and use a hammer handle
to apply pressure to install piston halfway into bore, Fig. 8.
6. Remove installation tool No. J-24548 and seat small lip of boot in caliper piston groove, then
bottom piston in bore.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8817
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Delco-Moraine Single Piston Caliper
Removal/Installation
REMOVAL
Fig. 2 Compressing Piston & Pad With C-clamp
1. Siphon enough brake fluid out of the master cylinder to bring fluid level to 1/3 full to avoid fluid
overflow when the caliper piston is pushed back into its bore.
2. Raise and support vehicle, remove front wheels.
3. Using a C-clamp, as illustrated in Fig. 2, push piston back into its bore.
4. Remove two mounting bolts and lift caliper away from disc.
INSTALLATION
1. Position caliper over disc, lining up mounting holes in caliper with holes in mounting bracket. If
brake hose was not disconnected during removal, be sure not to kink it during installation.
2. Start mounting bolts through sleeves in inboard caliper ears and the mounting bracket, making
sure ends of bolts pass under ears on inboard shoe. Right and left calipers must not be
interchanged.
3. Push mounting bolts through to engage holes in the outboard ears. Then thread mounting bolts
into bracket.
4. Torque mounting bolts to specifications.
5. If brake hose was removed, reconnect it and bleed the calipers.
6. Replace front wheels, lower vehicle and add brake fluid to master cylinder to bring level to 1/4
inch from top. Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to be sure it is firm. Do not
move vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained.
Disassembly/Inspection/Assembly
DISASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 Removing Piston From Caliper
1. Disconnect hose from the caliper being careful not to lose copper washers.
2. Remove caliper as outlined above.
3. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
4. Pad caliper interior with clean shop towels and apply compressed air to remove piston, Fig. 4.
Use just enough air pressure to ease piston out of
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8818
bore. When applying compressed air do not place fingers in front of piston in an attempt to catch or
protect it as this could result in serious injury.
5. Carefully pry dust boot out of bore.
6. Using a small piece of wood or plastic, remove piston seal from bore. Do not use a metal tool of
any kind to remove seal as it may damage bore.
7. Remove bleeder valve.
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out
drilled passages and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are
evident, new boots should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for
scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus
cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of
the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this
specification, a new caliper housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused
by piston seals and will do no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before
honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in
cleaning the caliper after honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured
alcohol. Wipe dry with clean lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 5 Installing Boot To Piston
Fig. 6 Installing Boot To Caliper
1. Lubricate caliper piston bore and new piston seal with clean brake fluid. Position seal in bore
groove.
2. Lubricate piston with clean brake fluid and assemble a new boot into the groove in the piston so
the fold faces the open end of the piston, Fig. 5.
3. Using care not to unseat the seal, insert piston into bore and force the piston to the bottom of the
bore.
4. Position dust boot in caliper counterbore and install, Fig. 6. Check the boot installation to be sure
the retaining ring molded into the boot is not bent and that the boot is installed below the caliper
face and evenly all around. If the boot is not fully installed, dirt and moisture may enter the bore
and cause corrosion.
5. If available, use new copper washers discarding the old washers and install the brake hose to
the caliper.
6. Install pads and caliper assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8819
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Delco
CALIPER
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Tire and wheel.
^ On models with composite rotor, reinstall two lug nuts to retain rotor.
Compressing Piston Prior To Caliper Removal
4. Compress piston using adjustable pliers over inboard lining (7) tab and caliper housing flange
(12).
5. Brake hose from caliper by removing inlet fitting bolt (14). 6. Mounting bolts (2).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8820
7. Bolt boots (1).
Suspending The Caliper
8. Caliper (12).
Delco Shoe And Lining Assembly (3400)
9. Mounting bolt seals (4), if used. 10. Bushings (3).
NOTE: Inspect the mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies for corrosion. Replace if any is found. Do
not attempt to polish away corrosion. Inspect bolt boots for nicks, cuts, or corrosion. Replace if any
are found.
NOTE: Clean the caliper assembly and install a new brake hardware kit anytime it is removed from
rotor.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM PIN 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8821
Delco Shoe And Lining Assembly (3400)
1. New bushings (3) and bolt seals (4).
Mounting Bolt Lubrication (Delco 3400)
2. Lubricate bushings (3) and mounting bolt seals (4) with GM P/N 18010909 or equivalent. 3. New
bolt boots (1). 4. Caliper (12).
^ Fill both housing cavities between bushings (3) with GM P/N 18010909, or equivalent.
5. Mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies (2).
^ Tighten bolt (2) to 51 Nm (38 lb. ft.). The bolt boots (1) must remain secure after tightening bolts.
6. Brake hose to caliper.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8822
Caliper To Bracket Clearance
7. Measure clearance between caliper (12) and bracket stops (16). If necessary, remove caliper
and file the ends of bracket (16) to obtain 0.26 to 0.60
mm (0.010 to 0.024 inch) total clearance. Measure the clearances individually and add them
together.
8. Tire and wheel.
NOTE: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm. Do
not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder after
pumping the brakes.
Bendix
CALIPER
Shoe And Lining Assembly
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Mark relationship of wheel to hub. 4. Tire and wheel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8823
Compressing The Caliper Piston
5. Position a C-clamp and tighten until piston bottoms in bore. 6. C-Clamp. 7. Brake hose.
Caliper Mounting
8. Bolt (2). 9. Support key (3) and spring (4).
Removing The Caliper Support Key
^ Use a brass punch and a hammer to drive the support key out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8824
Suspending The Caliper
10. Caliper assembly (1).
NOTE: Inspect the inside of the caliper assembly for signs of fluid leakage.
Clean: Use a wire brush to remove any corrosion from the machined surfaces of the anchor plate
and caliper.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM PIN 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
1. Lubricate caliper and anchor plate sliding surfaces with Shell Aeroshell No. 5, or equivalent.
Suspending The Caliper
2. Caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Make sure the brake hose Is not twisted or kinked after installation. Damage to the hose
could result.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8825
CAUTION: Do not use anti-seize type products on the caliper V-ways and anchor plate guide way
surfaces. These products are not lubricants and result in high caliper slide forces, which can cause
increased wear of the brake pads.
Installing The Caliper Support Key
3. Spring (4) and support key (3). Use a brass punch and hammer to drive the support key in place.
4. Caliper lock mounting bolts. The boss on the bolt must fit into the circular cutout in the key.
^ Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.).
5. Brake hose.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
6. Bleed brake system. Refer to Hydraulic System Service and Repair. 7. Tire and wheel. 8. Lower
the vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm.
Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder after pumping the brakes.
Rear Disc Brakes
CALIPER
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Mark relationship of wheel to hub. 4. Tire and wheel.
Compressing The Caliper Piston
5. Position a C-clamp and tighten until piston bottoms in bore. 6. C-Clamp. 7. Brake hose.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8826
Disc Brake Assembly
8. Bolt (2). 9. Support key (3) and spring (4).
Removing The Caliper Support Key
^ Use a brass punch and a hammer to drive the support key out.
Suspending The Caliper
10. Caliper assembly (1).
NOTE: Inspect the inside of the caliper assembly for signs of fluid leakage. If any is found, refer to
Overhaul.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8827
Clean: Use a wire brush to remove any corrosion from the machined surfaces of the anchor plate
and caliper.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM P/N 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
1. Lubricate caliper and anchor plate sliding surfaces with Shell Aeroshell Grade 5 lubricant or
equivalent.
Suspending The Caliper
2. Caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Make sure the brake hose Is not twisted or kinked after installation. Damage to the hose
could result.
CAUTION: Do not use "never sieze" type products on the caliper V-ways and anchor plate guide
way surfaces. These products are not lubricants and result in high caliper slide forces, which can
cause increased wear of the brake pads.
Installing The Caliper Support Key
3. Spring (4) and support key (3). Use a brass punch and hammer to drive the support key in place.
4. Caliper lock mounting bolts. The boss on the bolt must fit into the circular cutout in the key.
^ Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.).
5. Brake hose.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
6. Bleed brake system. Refer to Hydraulic System Service and Repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8828
7. Tire and wheel. 8. Lower the vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm.
Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder after pumping the brakes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
Brake Pad: Customer Interest Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-24-001A
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and/or Rear Brake
Shoes)
Models: 1992-99
Chevrolet and GMC C/K Cab Chassis, Crew Cab, and Pickup Models with Power Brakes (RPO
JB8)
1992-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Suburban Models with 8600 # GVW (RPO C6P)
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans with Power Brakes (RPO JD7 & JB8)
and GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # (RPO's C3F, C6P, & E23)
This bulletin is being revised to update information in the Models Section and Correction
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-05-24-001 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition Some owners may comment about the vehicle leading or pulling to either side while
applying the brakes, and premature front brake wear, especially vehicles that have been used to
tow a heavy load.
Cause The condition may be caused by wearing of the front brake material. Improvements to the
above conditions can be gained through brake material modifications. On the Suburban models,
the best performance from this new brake material can be achieved with replacing the brake
combination valve.
Correction Replace the rear brake shoes with P/N 18029651. THIS FIX DOES NOT APPLY TO
THE 13 x 2-1/2 BRAKE, DURASTOP(TM) P/N 18029650, OR ANY OTHER SIZE. On Suburban
models, a brake combination valve must be replaced. ALL OTHER MODELS (C/K, G Van), NO
BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE CHANGE IS REQUIRED.
Refer to the Drum Brakes or Hydraulic Brakes subsection of the appropriate Service Manual. For
G2/G3 Series Vans only (with GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # - RPOs C3F, C6P, E23) also replace
the front brakes pads with P/N 12471685. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual.
Important:
The new front brake pad material has been selected for improved wear characteristics. Some
customers may experience increased brake noise from this brake pad and should be advised that
some squeal is a characteristic of this particular material.
Important:
If you encounter disc brakes that are extremely worn on the inboard side, with very little wear to the
outboard side, verify the clearance between the caliper and the steering knuckle bracket stops.
MEASURE THE CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY AND ADD THE CLEARANCES TOGETHER FOR
TOTAL CLEARANCE BEFORE REMOVING THE CALIPER. If the caliper (total clearance) to the
steering knuckle stops is under 0.26 mm (0.010 in), correct this by filing metal off at the steering
knuckle stops in order to obtain a total clearance of 0.26 to 0.60 mm (0.010 to 0.024 in). DO NOT
FILE METAL OFF OF THE CALIPER. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual for additional information on this procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear >
Page 8837
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front
Brake Wear
Brake Pad: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-24-001A
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and/or Rear Brake
Shoes)
Models: 1992-99
Chevrolet and GMC C/K Cab Chassis, Crew Cab, and Pickup Models with Power Brakes (RPO
JB8)
1992-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Suburban Models with 8600 # GVW (RPO C6P)
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans with Power Brakes (RPO JD7 & JB8)
and GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # (RPO's C3F, C6P, & E23)
This bulletin is being revised to update information in the Models Section and Correction
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-05-24-001 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition Some owners may comment about the vehicle leading or pulling to either side while
applying the brakes, and premature front brake wear, especially vehicles that have been used to
tow a heavy load.
Cause The condition may be caused by wearing of the front brake material. Improvements to the
above conditions can be gained through brake material modifications. On the Suburban models,
the best performance from this new brake material can be achieved with replacing the brake
combination valve.
Correction Replace the rear brake shoes with P/N 18029651. THIS FIX DOES NOT APPLY TO
THE 13 x 2-1/2 BRAKE, DURASTOP(TM) P/N 18029650, OR ANY OTHER SIZE. On Suburban
models, a brake combination valve must be replaced. ALL OTHER MODELS (C/K, G Van), NO
BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE CHANGE IS REQUIRED.
Refer to the Drum Brakes or Hydraulic Brakes subsection of the appropriate Service Manual. For
G2/G3 Series Vans only (with GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # - RPOs C3F, C6P, E23) also replace
the front brakes pads with P/N 12471685. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual.
Important:
The new front brake pad material has been selected for improved wear characteristics. Some
customers may experience increased brake noise from this brake pad and should be advised that
some squeal is a characteristic of this particular material.
Important:
If you encounter disc brakes that are extremely worn on the inboard side, with very little wear to the
outboard side, verify the clearance between the caliper and the steering knuckle bracket stops.
MEASURE THE CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY AND ADD THE CLEARANCES TOGETHER FOR
TOTAL CLEARANCE BEFORE REMOVING THE CALIPER. If the caliper (total clearance) to the
steering knuckle stops is under 0.26 mm (0.010 in), correct this by filing metal off at the steering
knuckle stops in order to obtain a total clearance of 0.26 to 0.60 mm (0.010 to 0.024 in). DO NOT
FILE METAL OFF OF THE CALIPER. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual for additional information on this procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front
Brake Wear > Page 8843
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
Control Module: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Upshift Flare/No 3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 00-07-30-026
Date: December 2000
TECHNICAL
Subject: Automatic Transmission 1-2 and/or 2-3 Upshift Slip/Flare, No 3rd or 4th gear, Launch
Shudder (Revise VCM Wiring)
Models:
1996 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T, M/L, G1, G2, P3 Models 1996 Oldsmobile Bravada with VCM
and 4L60-E (M30) or 4L80-E (MT1) Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being reissued to ensure that correct procedures are followed for this condition.
Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 66-71-03A (Section 7 - Automatic Transmission).
When performing a transmission replacement labor operation K7000 on these vehicles with a
4L60-E or 4L80-E, you must include front chassis wire repair labor operation N6112. Inspect the
VCM to verify the latest part number revision (16244210).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the automatic transmission has either a slip or flare on the 1-2
and/or 2-3 upshift, or no 3rd or 4th gear, or launch shudder. Upon investigation, the technician may
find a DTC P1870 stored in the VCM.
Cause
A poor internal ground between the two circuit boards of the VCM may cause the VCM to
command erratic line pressure at the pressure control (PC) solenoid valve.
Correction
Using harness jumper wire and instruction kit, P/N 12167310, revise the wiring harness at the VCM
connector. Corrections were made to the VCM beginning 2/14/96. The corrected VCMs are
identified with service number 16244210 on the VCM identification label.
Procedure
The following is a summary of the instructions included with the service kit:
1. Remove the negative terminal from the battery.
2. Move the wire located at connector J3 (WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18 to connector J1 (BLUE),
pin 23.
3. Install the jumper wire between connector J2 (RED), pin 26 and connector J3
(WHITE/GREY/CLEAR), pin 18.
4. Install the tag included in the kit around the. VCM wiring harness. This tag notes that the wiring
harness has been modified.
5. Reconnect the negative battery terminal.
Road test to verify that the condition has been corrected. If any of the following conditions are
noted, the transmission should be repaired or replaced using the most cost effective method.
Canadian dealers should repair the transmission.
^ Transmission fluid oxidation or excessive sediment.
^ Transmission slip or flare after this service fix is performed.
^ DTC P1870 is stored on a 4L60-E (M30).
The following tools are available from Kent-Moore (1-800-345-2233) for use in removing and
relocating the VCM wires:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8849
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Brake Pad: > 00-07-30-026 > Dec > 00 > A/T - Upshift Flare/No
3rd or 4th/Launch Shudder > Page 8855
^ J 41758 Terminal Tool; used to remove the wire from the VCM connector.
^ J 41759 Punch; used to punch a new hole through the connector seal.
Parts Information
Part Number Description Qty
12167310 Harness Jumper Wire Kit 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Labor Operation
Description Labor Time
N6112 Wire Repair, Front Use Published
Chassis Labor Operation Time
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Pad: Service and Repair Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the brake hose, however, use caution not to twist or kink
hose.
REMOVAL
Fig. 2 Bottoming Position In Bore
Fig. 3 Removing Caliper Support Key
Fig. 4 Removing Or Installing Caliper
1. Siphon two-thirds of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir serving front disc brakes.
2. Raise vehicle, support on jack stands and remove front wheels.
3. Bottom the caliper piston in bore. Insert a screwdriver between inboard shoe and piston, then pry
piston back into bore. The piston can also be bottomed in the bore with a large C-clamp, Fig. 2.
4. Remove support key retaining screw.
5. Drive caliper support key and spring from steering knuckle with a suitable drift and hammer, Fig.
3.
6. Lift caliper from anchor plate and off rotor, Fig. 4. Hang caliper from coil spring with wire. Do not
allow caliper to hang from brake hose.
7. Remove inboard pad from steering knuckle, then the anti-rattle spring from the pad.
8. Remove outboard pad from caliper. It may be necessary to loosen the pad with a hammer to
permit removal.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean and lubricate sliding surfaces of caliper and the anchor plate with Delco Silicone Lube,
P/N 5459912, or equivalent.
2. Install anti-rattle spring on inboard pad, and ensure looped section of clip is facing away from
rotor.
3. Install inboard pad in steering knuckle.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8858
4. Install outboard pad in caliper. Ensure pad is seated fully into outboard arms of caliper. It may be
necessary to tap the ears and bottom tab with a hammer to seat the pad being careful not to hit the
friction material.
5. Place caliper assembly over rotor and position in steering knuckle. Ensure dust boot is not torn
or improperly positioned by inboard pad during caliper installation.
6. Align caliper with steering knuckle abutment surfaces, then insert support key and spring
between abutment surfaces at the trailing end of caliper and steering knuckle. With a hammer and
brass drift, drive caliper support key and spring into position, then install and torque support key
retaining screw to 12-18 ft. lbs.
7. Refill master cylinder to within one inch of rim. Press brake pedal several times to seat pads.
8. Install front wheels and lower vehicle.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Pad > Component Information >
Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8859
Brake Pad: Service and Repair Delco-Moraine Single Piston Caliper
REMOVAL
1. Remove caliper assembly as outlined above.
2. Remove inboard pad with retainer spring. Dislodge outboard pad and position caliper on the
front suspension so the brake hose will not support the weight of the caliper.
3. Remove two sleeves from inboard ears of the caliper.
4. Remove four rubber bushings from the grooves in each of the caliper ears.
INSTALLATION
Fig. 3 Fitting Pad To Caliper
1. Lubricate new sleeves, rubber bushings, bushing grooves and mounting bolt ends with Delco
Silicone Lube or equivalent.
2. Install new bushings and sleeves in caliper ears. Position the sleeve so that the end toward the
pad is flush with the machined surface of the ear.
3. Install retainer spring on back of inboard pad.
4. Position inboard pad with ears up and retainer spring facing the piston then press pad into piston
bore until seated. a.
Some inboard pads contain a wear sensor, the sensor should be toward the rear of the caliper
when installed properly.
5. Position outboard pad to caliper interior with pad ears over caliper ears and tab at bottom of pad
seated in caliper cutout.
6. With pads installed, install caliper as described under caliper installation.
7. Seat the outboard pad to the caliper by grasping the ears with channel locks and pressing
together firmly, Fig. 3.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool Revision
Brake Rotor/Disc: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Rotor & Hub Flange Cleaning Tool Revision
File In Section: 5 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 73-50-37
Date: January, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: Revision to J 42450 Tool; Proper Brake Rotor and Hub Flange Surface Cleaning
Models: 1998 and Prior Passenger Cars and Light Duty Trucks - with Disc Brakes (Rotor and Hub
Separate)
This bulletin is being revised to update the following text.
This bulletin is being issued to inform the dealer about a revision to tool J 42450 and reinforce the
need for proper hub flange and brake rotor mating surface cleaning during service.
Tool J 42450 is a cleaning pad arbor and pad system that fits over the wheel stud and cleans the
portion of the hub surface that is very difficult to reach with normal rotary cleaning pads. Tool J
42450 is being revised to J 42450-A to improve the hook and loop material retention. Any dealer
experiencing problems with tool J 42450 should contact Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233 for a
revised arbor at no charge.
Anytime the brake rotor has been separated from the hub bearing flange or if rotor machining is
necessary, the rotor and hub should be marked to maintain the original position. Clean the hub
flange of all dirt and foreign material using special tool J 42450 or J 42450-A. Clean both sides of
the brake rotor hub using an aggressive (80 grit) abrasive sanding pad on a rotary disc.
Properly cleaning the rotor surfaces before rotor machining or reassembly ensures that dirt and
corrosion will not add lateral runout to the rotor. Proper cleaning of the hub flange will also minimize
the stack-up of lateral runout. On reassembly, the rotor should be reinstalled aligning the marks
made on disassembly.
Always use a torque wrench or the appropriate Torque Socket found in J 39544-KIT on an impact
wrench when installing the wheel and tire assembly. Torque all wheel nuts using the correct
sequence and torque. Refer to the Tire and Wheel Sub-Section in the applicable Service Manual.
Excessive torque or torque variation between wheel nuts may cause distortion of the hub and rotor
mating surface. This distortion may cause lateral runout and lead to brake pulsation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Front Rotor, All Models and Engines
Front Rotor, All Models and Engines
Nominal Thickness 1.25 in
Minimum Refinish Thickness 1.23 in
Minimum Replacement Thickness 1.215 in
Thickness Variation (Parallelism) .0005 in
Runout (TIR) .003 in
Rear Rotor, Model C/K
Rear Rotor, Model C/K
Nominal Thickness 1.428 - 1.443 in
Minimum Refinish Thickness 1.382 in
Minimum Replacement Thickness 1.366 in
Thickness Variation (Parallelism) 0.0010 in
Runout (TIR) 0.010 in
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8866
Brake Rotor/Disc: Specifications Front Rotor
Front Rotor
Nominal Thickness 1.25 in
Minimum Refinish Thickness 1.23 in
Minimum Replacement Thickness 1.215 in
Thickness Variation (Parallelism) .0005 in
Runout (TIR) .003 in
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8867
Brake Rotor/Disc: Testing and Inspection
This article has been updated with bulletin No: 00-05-22-002B.
BRAKE ROTOR DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE GUIDELINES
IMPORTANT: Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs which
differ from those outlined in this bulletin. For information regarding lateral runout correction, refer to
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001A, Brake Align System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction.
For other conditions, refer to those specific repairs in applicable bulletins. Original equipment rotor
surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between mounting and friction
surfaces. New rotors SHOULD NOT be resurfaced before installation. When rotor turning is
necessary, it is essential that you use a high quality brake lathe. Rotors, when remounted on the
hub, should have less than .055 mm (.002 in) lateral runout.
Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist:
1. Severe scoring - depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in).
2. Pulsation concerns from:
^ Lateral runout in excess of .055 mm (.002 in).
^ Thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm (0.001 in).
^ Excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.
Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions:
- Noise/squeal
- Cosmetic corrosion
- Routine pad replacement
- Discoloration/hard spots
Explanation of Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
^ Rotor refacing during normal pad replacement is not necessary.
^ Rotor refacing for cosmetic corrosion is unnecessary. Clean up of braking surfaces can be
accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between
stops.
^ Rotor service is ineffective in correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear out and
should not be used to address these conditions unless specifically directed by a service bulletin.
^ When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them. If a new rotor has more than .055 mm (.002 in)
lateral runout when properly mounted on the hub, it may be machined using an approved on-car
lathe or follow correction plate procedure found in Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001A.
^ Ensure bearing flanges and rotor mounting surfaces are free of corrosion when installing rotors to
prevent inducing lateral runout. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450A to clean the corrosion around the
wheel studs.
^ Always mark the position of the rotor on the hub before removal and reinstall the rotor in the
same position. Rotors with perceived hard spots or discoloration should not be serviced. These
conditions are normal. Installation of new rotors does not require pad replacement. Do not replace
pads unless their condition requires it. It is not necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be
replaced individually. However, caution should be exercised, as a variance in surface finish may
cause a brake pull condition.
A torque limiting socket or torque wrench must be used to insure that the wheel nuts are tightened
to specification. This should be done in 3 steps using the star pattern:
1. Hand tighten all 5 lug nuts using the star pattern. 2. Tighten all 5 nuts to approximately 1/2 spec.
using the star pattern. 3. Tighten all 5 nuts to full spec. using the star pattern.
^ Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel studs, nuts or mounting surfaces. Wheel nuts,
studs and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry.
BRAKE SERVICE TECHNIQUES
1. Clean and lubricate all metal-to-metal contact points (i.e. caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc).
2. Clean and lubricate slide pins, if applicable. 3. Set correct clearances (i.e. caliper to knuckle,
etc.), if applicable. 4. Clean rotor and hub mounting surfaces. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to
clean around the wheel studs. 5. Verify lateral runout of the rotor with a dial indicator (rotor held on
hub with 3 or more wheel nuts and washers).
PULSATION
IMPORTANT: Brake pulsation is often caused by factors outside customer control. Brake pulsation
concerns may result from two basic conditions:
^ Pulsation is caused by brake rotor thickness variation. Thickness variation causes the piston in
the brake caliper to "pump" in and out of the caliper housing. This "pumping" effect is transmitted
hydraulically to the brake pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8868
^ Thickness variation on a new rotor will be virtually undetectable. But if the rotor (as installed on
the vehicle) has lateral runout, it is likely that thickness variation will develop. Pulsation caused by
thickness variation will develop on new vehicles when the tolerances of the hub and rotor stack up
with lateral runout in excess of .055 mm (.002 in). Pulsation that is the result of excessive lateral
runout usually develops in 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi).
^ Thickness variation can be induced when uneven torque is applied to wheel nuts (lug nuts).
Improper wheel tightening after tire rotation, spare tire usage, brake inspection, etc. can be the
cause of pulsation. Again, it usually takes 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi) after this event for the
condition to surface. The owner or driver does not usually make the connection between the
service event and the awareness of the pulsation.
^ The proper usage of torque wrenches and/or torque sticks (torque limiting sockets) will greatly
reduce or eliminate the pulsation conditions after wheel service events.
^ The improper use of impact wrenches on wheel nuts greatly increases the likelihood of pulsation
after wheel service.
^ GM highly recommends the use of on-car brake rotor turning as a method of eliminating the stack
up of lateral runout which is a potential source of brake pulsation. GM has identified superior
equipment through testing and evaluation. The *Pro-Cut PFM900 or Hunter 0CL360 will
consistently deliver machined rotors that meet GM specifications (lateral runout less than .055 mm
(.002 in) and are the only on-car brake lathes that are currently recommended by GM. The use of
this on-car rotor turning technology has proven to significantly reduce the repeat occurrences of
brake pulsation. If on-car brake rotor turning equipment is not available, refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-05-23-001A for brake rotor lateral runout correction procedure.
* We believe these sources and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional
manufacturers of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the equipment from this firm or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
The following are examples of pulsation conditions and reimbursement recommendations: 1. If a
customer noticed the condition after 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi) and it gradually got worse,
normally the repair would be covered. The
customer may tolerate the condition until it becomes very apparent.
2. If a customer indicated they had wheel service, ask who performed the service. Then:
^ If a dealer performed the service, consider paying for the repair and then strongly reinforce the
use of torque sticks at that dealer. Two common size torque sticks cover 90% of all GM products.
Each technician needs to use torque sticks properly every time the wheel nuts are tightened.
^ If the customer had the wheel service done outside of our dealer network, normally GM would not
otter any assistance.
Customer assistance concerning brake pulsation and brake wear should always take into account
the individual circumstances on a case by case basis. The recommendations mentioned previously
should only be used as a general guide. REMEMBER THAT CUSTOMER SATISFACTION IS
CRITICAL TO GM AND THAT OFTEN IT IS IN GM'S BEST INTEREST TO SATISFY AND
EDUCATE THE CUSTOMER CONCERNING FUTURE BRAKE SERVICE.
ROTOR GROOVING
Excessive grooving can be caused by foreign material in contact with the rotor, but most often rotor
grooving is the result of normal brake wear. Do not resurface rotors for light grooving. Resurface
rotors only when grooves of 1.5 mm (0.060 in) or deeper are present. A dime may be used to
determine disc brake groove depth. Place a dime in the groove, with Roosevelt's head toward the
groove. If the dime goes into the groove beyond the top of his head, the groove exceeds 1.5 mm
(0.060 in) and the rotor should be serviced. In Canada, if any portion of the letters of "Canada" are
covered, the rotor should be serviced. If the groove is too narrow for the dime to be inserted, it is
not a cause for concern.
HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
Follow the Service Manual diagnostic procedures for this condition. Service (replace or resurface)
rotors if they have been recently resurfaced. The surface finish may be out-of-specification.
LIGHTLY RUSTED ROTORS
Light surface rust on rotor braking surfaces is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few
normal driving stops. Rusting may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Rotors
with surface rust on unsold new cars can usually be burnished clean by performing 15 moderate
stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.
FACTS ABOUT BRAKE NOISE
Brake noise is normal and differences in loading, type of driving, or driving style can make a
difference in brake wear on the same make and model. Depending on weather conditions, driving
patterns and the local environment, brake noise may become more or less apparent. Brake noise is
caused by a "slip stick" vibration of brake components. While intermittent brake noise may be
normal, performing 3-4 aggressive stops may temporarily reduce or eliminate most brake squeal. If
the noise persists, a brake dampening compound may be applied to the back of each pad. Use
Permatex Disc Brake Quiet # 126hb, or equivalent. Also, clean and lubricate all metal-to-metal
contact areas between pads, pad guides, caliper and knuckles with a thin layer of high temperature
silicone grease. This allows parts to slide freely and not vibrate when moving relative to each other.
The following noises are characteristic of all braking systems and are unavoidable. They may not
indicate improper operation of the brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Specifications > Page 8869
SQUEAK/SQUEAL NOISE
- Occurs with front semi-metallic brake pads at medium speeds when light to medium pressure is
applied to the brake pedal.
- Occasionally a noise may occur on rear brakes during the first few stops or with cold brakes
and/or high humidity.
GRINDING NOISE
- Common to rear brakes and some front disc brakes during initial stops after the vehicle has been
parked overnight.
- Caused by trace corrosion on the metal surfaces during vehicle non-use. Usually disappears after
a few stops.
GROAN NOISE
- A small groan may be heard when stopping quickly or moving forward slowly from a complete
stop. This is normal.
BRAKE WEAR
Several factors impact brake lining wear and should be taken into account when reviewing related
issues. The following are conditions that may accelerate brake lining wear:
- Heavy loads
- High temperatures
- Towing
- Mountainous terrain
- City Driving
- Aggressive driving
- Driver braking characteristics (left foot)
The following are conditions that may extend brake lining wear:
- Light loads
- Highway driving
- Conservative driving
- Level terrain
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines
This article has been updated with bulletin No: 00-05-22-002B.
BRAKE ROTOR DIAGNOSIS AND SERVICE GUIDELINES
IMPORTANT: Certain conditions may apply to individual vehicles regarding specific repairs which
differ from those outlined in this bulletin. For information regarding lateral runout correction, refer to
Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001A, Brake Align System for Brake Rotor Lateral Runout Correction.
For other conditions, refer to those specific repairs in applicable bulletins. Original equipment rotor
surfaces are ground to ensure smooth finish and parallelism between mounting and friction
surfaces. New rotors SHOULD NOT be resurfaced before installation. When rotor turning is
necessary, it is essential that you use a high quality brake lathe. Rotors, when remounted on the
hub, should have less than .055 mm (.002 in) lateral runout.
Brake rotors should only be turned when one of the following rotor surface conditions exist:
1. Severe scoring - depth in excess of 1.5 mm (0.060 in).
2. Pulsation concerns from:
^ Lateral runout in excess of .055 mm (.002 in).
^ Thickness variation in excess of 0.025 mm (0.001 in).
^ Excessive corrosion on rotor braking surfaces.
Rotors are not to be resurfaced in an attempt to correct the following conditions:
- Noise/squeal
- Cosmetic corrosion
- Routine pad replacement
- Discoloration/hard spots
Explanation of Brake Rotor Warranty Service Procedure
^ Rotor refacing during normal pad replacement is not necessary.
^ Rotor refacing for cosmetic corrosion is unnecessary. Clean up of braking surfaces can be
accomplished by 10-15 moderate stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between
stops.
^ Rotor service is ineffective in correcting brake squeal and/or premature lining wear out and
should not be used to address these conditions unless specifically directed by a service bulletin.
^ When installing new rotors, DO NOT reface them. If a new rotor has more than .055 mm (.002 in)
lateral runout when properly mounted on the hub, it may be machined using an approved on-car
lathe or follow correction plate procedure found in Corporate Bulletin Number 01-05-23-001A.
^ Ensure bearing flanges and rotor mounting surfaces are free of corrosion when installing rotors to
prevent inducing lateral runout. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450A to clean the corrosion around the
wheel studs.
^ Always mark the position of the rotor on the hub before removal and reinstall the rotor in the
same position. Rotors with perceived hard spots or discoloration should not be serviced. These
conditions are normal. Installation of new rotors does not require pad replacement. Do not replace
pads unless their condition requires it. It is not necessary to replace rotors in pairs. Rotors may be
replaced individually. However, caution should be exercised, as a variance in surface finish may
cause a brake pull condition.
A torque limiting socket or torque wrench must be used to insure that the wheel nuts are tightened
to specification. This should be done in 3 steps using the star pattern:
1. Hand tighten all 5 lug nuts using the star pattern. 2. Tighten all 5 nuts to approximately 1/2 spec.
using the star pattern. 3. Tighten all 5 nuts to full spec. using the star pattern.
^ Never use lubricants or penetrating fluids on wheel studs, nuts or mounting surfaces. Wheel nuts,
studs and mounting surfaces must be clean and dry.
BRAKE SERVICE TECHNIQUES
1. Clean and lubricate all metal-to-metal contact points (i.e. caliper to knuckle, pad to knuckle, etc).
2. Clean and lubricate slide pins, if applicable. 3. Set correct clearances (i.e. caliper to knuckle,
etc.), if applicable. 4. Clean rotor and hub mounting surfaces. Use Kent Moore tool J 42450 to
clean around the wheel studs. 5. Verify lateral runout of the rotor with a dial indicator (rotor held on
hub with 3 or more wheel nuts and washers).
PULSATION
IMPORTANT: Brake pulsation is often caused by factors outside customer control. Brake pulsation
concerns may result from two basic conditions:
^ Pulsation is caused by brake rotor thickness variation. Thickness variation causes the piston in
the brake caliper to "pump" in and out of the
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines > Page 8872
caliper housing. This "pumping" effect is transmitted hydraulically to the brake pedal.
^ Thickness variation on a new rotor will be virtually undetectable. But if the rotor (as installed on
the vehicle) has lateral runout, it is likely that thickness variation will develop. Pulsation caused by
thickness variation will develop on new vehicles when the tolerances of the hub and rotor stack up
with lateral runout in excess of .055 mm (.002 in). Pulsation that is the result of excessive lateral
runout usually develops in 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi).
^ Thickness variation can be induced when uneven torque is applied to wheel nuts (lug nuts).
Improper wheel tightening after tire rotation, spare tire usage, brake inspection, etc. can be the
cause of pulsation. Again, it usually takes 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi) after this event for the
condition to surface. The owner or driver does not usually make the connection between the
service event and the awareness of the pulsation.
^ The proper usage of torque wrenches and/or torque sticks (torque limiting sockets) will greatly
reduce or eliminate the pulsation conditions after wheel service events.
^ The improper use of impact wrenches on wheel nuts greatly increases the likelihood of pulsation
after wheel service.
^ GM highly recommends the use of on-car brake rotor turning as a method of eliminating the stack
up of lateral runout which is a potential source of brake pulsation. GM has identified superior
equipment through testing and evaluation. The *Pro-Cut PFM900 or Hunter 0CL360 will
consistently deliver machined rotors that meet GM specifications (lateral runout less than .055 mm
(.002 in) and are the only on-car brake lathes that are currently recommended by GM. The use of
this on-car rotor turning technology has proven to significantly reduce the repeat occurrences of
brake pulsation. If on-car brake rotor turning equipment is not available, refer to Corporate Bulletin
Number 01-05-23-001A for brake rotor lateral runout correction procedure.
* We believe these sources and their equipment to be reliable. There may be additional
manufacturers of such equipment. General Motors does not endorse, indicate any preference for or
assume any responsibility for the equipment from this firm or for any such items which may be
available from other sources.
The following are examples of pulsation conditions and reimbursement recommendations: 1. If a
customer noticed the condition after 4800-11300 km (3000-7000 mi) and it gradually got worse,
normally the repair would be covered. The
customer may tolerate the condition until it becomes very apparent.
2. If a customer indicated they had wheel service, ask who performed the service. Then:
^ If a dealer performed the service, consider paying for the repair and then strongly reinforce the
use of torque sticks at that dealer. Two common size torque sticks cover 90% of all GM products.
Each technician needs to use torque sticks properly every time the wheel nuts are tightened.
^ If the customer had the wheel service done outside of our dealer network, normally GM would not
otter any assistance.
Customer assistance concerning brake pulsation and brake wear should always take into account
the individual circumstances on a case by case basis. The recommendations mentioned previously
should only be used as a general guide. REMEMBER THAT CUSTOMER SATISFACTION IS
CRITICAL TO GM AND THAT OFTEN IT IS IN GM'S BEST INTEREST TO SATISFY AND
EDUCATE THE CUSTOMER CONCERNING FUTURE BRAKE SERVICE.
ROTOR GROOVING
Excessive grooving can be caused by foreign material in contact with the rotor, but most often rotor
grooving is the result of normal brake wear. Do not resurface rotors for light grooving. Resurface
rotors only when grooves of 1.5 mm (0.060 in) or deeper are present. A dime may be used to
determine disc brake groove depth. Place a dime in the groove, with Roosevelt's head toward the
groove. If the dime goes into the groove beyond the top of his head, the groove exceeds 1.5 mm
(0.060 in) and the rotor should be serviced. In Canada, if any portion of the letters of "Canada" are
covered, the rotor should be serviced. If the groove is too narrow for the dime to be inserted, it is
not a cause for concern.
HIGH PEDAL EFFORT
Follow the Service Manual diagnostic procedures for this condition. Service (replace or resurface)
rotors if they have been recently resurfaced. The surface finish may be out-of-specification.
LIGHTLY RUSTED ROTORS
Light surface rust on rotor braking surfaces is often cosmetic and can be eliminated during a few
normal driving stops. Rusting may occur when a vehicle is not driven for extended periods. Rotors
with surface rust on unsold new cars can usually be burnished clean by performing 15 moderate
stops from 62-75 km/h (35-40 mph) with cooling time between stops.
FACTS ABOUT BRAKE NOISE
Brake noise is normal and differences in loading, type of driving, or driving style can make a
difference in brake wear on the same make and model. Depending on weather conditions, driving
patterns and the local environment, brake noise may become more or less apparent. Brake noise is
caused by a "slip stick" vibration of brake components. While intermittent brake noise may be
normal, performing 3-4 aggressive stops may temporarily reduce or eliminate most brake squeal. If
the noise persists, a brake dampening compound may be applied to the back of each pad. Use
Permatex Disc Brake Quiet # 126hb, or equivalent. Also, clean and lubricate all metal-to-metal
contact areas between pads, pad guides, caliper and knuckles with a thin layer of high temperature
silicone grease. This allows parts to slide freely and not vibrate when moving relative to each other.
The following noises are characteristic of all braking systems and are unavoidable. They may not
indicate improper operation of the brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines > Page 8873
SQUEAK/SQUEAL NOISE
- Occurs with front semi-metallic brake pads at medium speeds when light to medium pressure is
applied to the brake pedal.
- Occasionally a noise may occur on rear brakes during the first few stops or with cold brakes
and/or high humidity.
GRINDING NOISE
- Common to rear brakes and some front disc brakes during initial stops after the vehicle has been
parked overnight.
- Caused by trace corrosion on the metal surfaces during vehicle non-use. Usually disappears after
a few stops.
GROAN NOISE
- A small groan may be heard when stopping quickly or moving forward slowly from a complete
stop. This is normal.
BRAKE WEAR
Several factors impact brake lining wear and should be taken into account when reviewing related
issues. The following are conditions that may accelerate brake lining wear:
- Heavy loads
- High temperatures
- Towing
- Mountainous terrain
- City Driving
- Aggressive driving
- Driver braking characteristics (left foot)
The following are conditions that may extend brake lining wear:
- Light loads
- Highway driving
- Conservative driving
- Level terrain
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines > Page 8874
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Service Notes
Servicing of disc brakes is extremely critical due to the close tolerances required in machining the
brake disc to insure proper brake operation. The maintenance of these close controls on the friction
surfaces is necessary to prevent brake roughness. In addition, the surface finish must be
non-directional and maintained at a micro-inch finish. This close control of the rubbing surface
finish is necessary to avoid pulls and erratic performance and promote long lining life and equal
lining wear of both left and right brakes. In light of the foregoing remarks, refinishing of the rubbing
surfaces should not be attempted unless precision equipment, capable of measuring in
micro-inches is available. To check runout of a disc, mount a dial indicator on a convenient part
(steering knuckle, tie rod, disc brake caliper housing) so that the plunger of the dial indicator
contacts the disc at a point one inch from the outer edge. If the total indicated runout exceeds
specifications, install a new disc.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines > Page 8875
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Front
Fig. 5 Hub, knuckle & bearing components.
REMOVE
1. Disconnect battery ground cable. 2. Raise and support vehicle, then remove brake caliper. 3.
Remove cap from hub/disc assembly, Fig. 5. 4. Remove cotter pin, nut and washer. 5. Remove
hub/disc from spindle. 6. Remove outer bearing, seal, inner bearing and cup.
INSTALL
1. Reverse procedure to install. Note the following:
a. Clean all components before installing. b. Apply an approved high temperature front wheel
bearing grease to the spindle at the inner and outer bearing seat, shoulder and seal seat. Also
finger apply a small amount of grease inboard of each bearing cup in the hub/disc assembly.
Pressure pack the bearings with a grease machine or hand pack them. Ensure grease is worked
thoroughly into the rollers, cone and cage.
c. When installing inner bearing, apply an additional quantity of grease outboard of the inner
bearing. d. Torque nut (12) 10-12 ft lbs while turning the wheel assembly forward by hand. Apply
grease to the outboard side of the outer bearing. Adjust
wheel bearings.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Disc Brake System > Brake Rotor/Disc > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Brake Rotor Diagnosis and Service Guidelines > Page 8876
Brake Rotor/Disc: Service and Repair Rear
BENDIX SINGLE PISTON SLIDING CALIPER
Fig. 9 Rear Disc Brake Rotor Replacement.
1. Raise and support vehicle. 2. Remove tire and wheel. 3. Remove caliper. 4. Remove axle cap
bolts from hub/rotor, then axle shaft. 5. Remove axle outer lock nut using tool No. J-2222-C, or
equivalent, then remove washer and adjustor nut. 6. Remove hub/rotor from spindle, being careful
not to damage spindle threads or outer bearing, Fig. 9. 7. Reverse procedure to install noting the
following:
a. Inspect and replace all parts and apply high-temperature wheel bearing grease where
necessary. b. Torque inner wheel bearing adjusting nut to 50 ft. lbs. to seat bearings, then back of
adjusting nut to 35 ft. lbs. while rotating hub and finally
back off 135-150 degrees. Final bearing adjustment is 0.001-0.010 inch.
c. Bend one ear of lock washer over inner nut to 30 degrees minimum, then bend one ear of
lockwasher over outer nut 60 degrees minimum. d. Torque retaining nut to 65 ft. lbs. while turning
wheel assembly forward by hand and making certain the bearing cones are seated and in
contact with the spindle shoulder.
e. Tighten axle cap nuts to specifications.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Backing Plate > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Backing Plate: Testing and Inspection
Inspect backing plate shoe contact surface for grooves that may restrict shoe movement and
cannot be removed by lightly sanding with emery cloth or other suitable abrasive. If backing plate
exhibits above condition, it should be replaced. Also inspect for signs of cracks, warpage and
excessive rust, indicating need for replacement.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Specifications
Brake Drum: Specifications
GVW 4300, 6400 lbs. GVW 7200 lbs. GVW 8400 lbs.
Model C/K C/K C/K
Engine Type All All All
Power Assist Type All All All
Drum Brake Diameter Original 10 in 11.15 in 13 in
Maximum Refinish 10.05 in 11.21 in 13.06 in
Discard 10.09 in 11.24 in 13.09 in
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Drum > Component Information
> Specifications > Page 8884
Brake Drum: Testing and Inspection
Any time the brake drums are removed for brake service, the braking surface diameter should be
checked with a suitable brake drum micrometer at several points to determine if they are within the
safe oversize limit stamped on the brake drum outer surface. If the braking surface diameter
exceeds specifications, the drum must be replaced. If the braking surface diameter is within
specifications, drums should be cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores, deep grooves, taper, out
of round and heat spotting. If drums are cracked or heat spotted, they must be replaced. Grooves
and large scores can only be removed by machining with special equipment, as long as the braking
surface is within specifications stamped on brake drum outer surface. Any brake drum sufficiently
out of round to cause vehicle vibration or noise while braking, or showing taper should also be
machined, removing only enough stock to true up the brake drum. After a brake drum is machined,
wipe the braking surface diameter with a cloth soaked in denatured alcohol. Brake drums should
always be machined in pairs and within allowable side to side specifications to maintain equal
braking forces.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Shoe: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front
Brake Wear
Brake Shoe: Customer Interest Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-24-001A
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and/or Rear Brake
Shoes)
Models: 1992-99
Chevrolet and GMC C/K Cab Chassis, Crew Cab, and Pickup Models with Power Brakes (RPO
JB8)
1992-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Suburban Models with 8600 # GVW (RPO C6P)
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans with Power Brakes (RPO JD7 & JB8)
and GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # (RPO's C3F, C6P, & E23)
This bulletin is being revised to update information in the Models Section and Correction
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-05-24-001 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition Some owners may comment about the vehicle leading or pulling to either side while
applying the brakes, and premature front brake wear, especially vehicles that have been used to
tow a heavy load.
Cause The condition may be caused by wearing of the front brake material. Improvements to the
above conditions can be gained through brake material modifications. On the Suburban models,
the best performance from this new brake material can be achieved with replacing the brake
combination valve.
Correction Replace the rear brake shoes with P/N 18029651. THIS FIX DOES NOT APPLY TO
THE 13 x 2-1/2 BRAKE, DURASTOP(TM) P/N 18029650, OR ANY OTHER SIZE. On Suburban
models, a brake combination valve must be replaced. ALL OTHER MODELS (C/K, G Van), NO
BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE CHANGE IS REQUIRED.
Refer to the Drum Brakes or Hydraulic Brakes subsection of the appropriate Service Manual. For
G2/G3 Series Vans only (with GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # - RPOs C3F, C6P, E23) also replace
the front brakes pads with P/N 12471685. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual.
Important:
The new front brake pad material has been selected for improved wear characteristics. Some
customers may experience increased brake noise from this brake pad and should be advised that
some squeal is a characteristic of this particular material.
Important:
If you encounter disc brakes that are extremely worn on the inboard side, with very little wear to the
outboard side, verify the clearance between the caliper and the steering knuckle bracket stops.
MEASURE THE CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY AND ADD THE CLEARANCES TOGETHER FOR
TOTAL CLEARANCE BEFORE REMOVING THE CALIPER. If the caliper (total clearance) to the
steering knuckle stops is under 0.26 mm (0.010 in), correct this by filing metal off at the steering
knuckle stops in order to obtain a total clearance of 0.26 to 0.60 mm (0.010 to 0.024 in). DO NOT
FILE METAL OFF OF THE CALIPER. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual for additional information on this procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Brake Shoe: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front
Brake Wear > Page 8893
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Shoe: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
Brake Shoe: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 99-05-24-001A
Date: September, 1999
TECHNICAL
Subject: Brake Lead/Pull and Front Brake Wear (Replace Front Brake Pads and/or Rear Brake
Shoes)
Models: 1992-99
Chevrolet and GMC C/K Cab Chassis, Crew Cab, and Pickup Models with Power Brakes (RPO
JB8)
1992-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Suburban Models with 8600 # GVW (RPO C6P)
1996-2000 Chevrolet and GMC G Vans with Power Brakes (RPO JD7 & JB8)
and GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # (RPO's C3F, C6P, & E23)
This bulletin is being revised to update information in the Models Section and Correction
Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-05-24-001 (Section 5 - Brakes).
Condition Some owners may comment about the vehicle leading or pulling to either side while
applying the brakes, and premature front brake wear, especially vehicles that have been used to
tow a heavy load.
Cause The condition may be caused by wearing of the front brake material. Improvements to the
above conditions can be gained through brake material modifications. On the Suburban models,
the best performance from this new brake material can be achieved with replacing the brake
combination valve.
Correction Replace the rear brake shoes with P/N 18029651. THIS FIX DOES NOT APPLY TO
THE 13 x 2-1/2 BRAKE, DURASTOP(TM) P/N 18029650, OR ANY OTHER SIZE. On Suburban
models, a brake combination valve must be replaced. ALL OTHER MODELS (C/K, G Van), NO
BRAKE COMBINATION VALVE CHANGE IS REQUIRED.
Refer to the Drum Brakes or Hydraulic Brakes subsection of the appropriate Service Manual. For
G2/G3 Series Vans only (with GVW's of 7,700 # up to 9,500 # - RPOs C3F, C6P, E23) also replace
the front brakes pads with P/N 12471685. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual.
Important:
The new front brake pad material has been selected for improved wear characteristics. Some
customers may experience increased brake noise from this brake pad and should be advised that
some squeal is a characteristic of this particular material.
Important:
If you encounter disc brakes that are extremely worn on the inboard side, with very little wear to the
outboard side, verify the clearance between the caliper and the steering knuckle bracket stops.
MEASURE THE CLEARANCES INDIVIDUALLY AND ADD THE CLEARANCES TOGETHER FOR
TOTAL CLEARANCE BEFORE REMOVING THE CALIPER. If the caliper (total clearance) to the
steering knuckle stops is under 0.26 mm (0.010 in), correct this by filing metal off at the steering
knuckle stops in order to obtain a total clearance of 0.26 to 0.60 mm (0.010 to 0.024 in). DO NOT
FILE METAL OFF OF THE CALIPER. Refer to the Disc Brake subsection of the appropriate
Service Manual for additional information on this procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Brake Shoe: > 99-05-24-001A > Sep > 99 > Brakes Lead/Pull & Front Brake Wear > Page 8899
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8900
Brake Shoe: Testing and Inspection
Inspect brake linings for excessive wear, damage, oil, grease or brake fluid contamination. If any of
the above conditions exists, brake linings should be replaced. Brake shoes should always be
replaced as an axle set to maintain equal braking forces. Examine brake shoe webbing, hold-down
and return springs for signs of overheating indicated by a slight blue color. If any component
exhibits signs of overheating, replace hold-down and return springs with new ones. Overheated
springs lose their pull and could cause brake linings to wear out prematurely. Inspect all springs for
sags, bends and external damage, and replace as necessary. Inspect hold-down retainers and pins
for bends, rust and corrosion. If any of the above conditions exist, replace retainers and pins.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Brake Shoe > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8901
Brake Shoe: Adjustments
These brakes have self-adjusting shoe mechanisms that assure correct lining-to-drum clearances
at all times. The automatic adjusters operate only when the brakes are applied as the vehicle is
moving rearward or when the car comes to an uphill stop. Although the brakes are self-adjusting,
an initial adjustment is necessary after the brake shoes have been relined or replaced, or when the
length of the adjusting screw has been changed during some other service operation. Refer to
COMPONENT REPLACEMENT AND REPAIR/DRUM BRAKES/REMOVAL/INSTALLATION for
this procedure. Frequent usage of an automatic transmission forward range to halt reverse vehicle
motion may prevent the automatic adjusters from functioning, thereby inducing low pedal heights.
Should low pedal heights be encountered, it is recommended that numerous forward and reverse
stops be made until satisfactory pedal height is obtained. If a low pedal condition cannot be
corrected by making numerous reverse stops (provided the hydraulic system is free of air) it
indicates that the self-adjusting mechanism is not functioning. Therefore it will be necessary to
remove the brake drum, clean, free up and lubricate the adjusting mechanism. Then adjust the
brakes, being sure the parking brake is fully released.
1. Using a suitable punch, knock out lanced area in backing plate or drum. If drum is installed on
vehicle when this is done, remove drum and clean brake compartment of all metal. When
adjustment is completed, a new hole cover must be installed in the backing plate.
2. Using suitable tool, turn brake adjusting screw to expand brake shoes at each wheel until wheel
can just be turned by hand. Drag should be equal on all wheels.
3. Back off adjusting screw at each wheel 30 notches.
4. If shoe still drags slightly on drum, back off adjusting screw an additional one or two notches.
5. When adjusting screw has been backed off approximately 12 notches, brakes should be free of
drag. Heavy drag at this point indicates tight parking brake cables.
6. Install adjusting hole cover in brake backing place.
7. Check parking brake for proper adjustment.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Drum Brake System > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8906
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair
Disassembled View Of Wheel Cylinder (typical)
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel, drum and brake shoes.
3. Disconnect hydraulic line at wheel cylinder.
4. Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws, then remove wheel cylinder.
5. Strip cylinder of boots, pistons, springs and seals, Fig. 9.
6. Inspect cylinder bore for scoring and corrosion. Discoloration is a sign that springs have been
damaged by heat, replace them if necessary.
7. Clean cylinder bore with crocus cloth. If cleaning does not remove scoring, replace cylinder.
8. Lubricate cylinder bore and seals with brake fluid, then reassemble cylinder.
9. Reverse procedure to install. Bleed system. Refer to Brakes / Service and Repair / Brake
System Bleed. See: Service and Repair
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
BLEEDING PROCEDURES
Important: Never pump the brake pedal. Fluid cavitation may occur.
NOTICE: Gravity and vacuum bleeding are not recommended for this ABS system.
Two Person Procedure (Preferred)
1. Raise the vehicle to gain access to the system bleed screws. Install clear tubing on the bleed
screws so that air bubbles in the fluid can be seen. 2. Begin by bleeding the system at the right rear
wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front. 3. Open one bleed screw at a time 1/2 to 1 full
turn. 4. Slowly depress the brake pedal until it reaches its full travel and hold until the bleed screw
has been tightened. Release the brake pedal and wait
10-15 seconds for the master cylinder to return to the home position.
Important: Repeat steps 1 through 4 until approximately 1 pint of brake fluid has been bled from
each wheel. Clean brake fluid should be present at each of the wheel bleed screws. Check the
master cylinder fluid level every 4 to 6 strokes of the brake pedal to avoid running the system dry.
5. If any component is replaced which may have caused air to enter the BPMV, use a Scan Tool to
run "Function Test" four times while applying the
brake pedal firmly.
Important: Set the park brake when running the "Function Test."
6. Rebleed all four wheels using steps 1 through 4 to remove the remaining air from the brake
system. 7. Evaluate the brake pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle and rebleed as
many times as necessary to obtain appropriate pedal feel.
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
Pressure Bleeding (Low Pressure)
1. Install pressure bleeder per instructions. 2. Install combination valve depressing tool J391 77 if
the vehicle is equipped with the metering portion of the combination valve. Remove both dust
caps on the combination valve. Install the tool on the end of the combination valve with a brass
center pin.
3. Bleed all four wheels beginning at the right rear wheel, then the left rear, right front and left front.
Leave the bleed screws open until 1 pint of fluid
has been bled out of each wheel.
4. After bleeding all four wheels1 remove the combination valve clip. Use a Scan Tool to run 4
functional tests while applying the brake pedal
firmly.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 3 then evaluate the pedal feel. 6. Rebleed the wheels as many times as
necessary to obtain good pedal feel before attempting to drive the vehicle. A good bleed will use
approximately 2 to 3 quarts of brake fluid.
Important: Never reuse brake fluid after it has been bled through a brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8912
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Master Cylinder Bleeding
This procedure can be performed with master cylinder on or off vehicle.
1. Disconnect brake lines at master cylinder, if necessary.
2. Connect suitable lengths of brake lines to master cylinder and immerse other ends of lines in
master cylinder reservoirs.
3. Apply master cylinder pushrod or brake pedal with full strokes until air bubbles have disappeared
in reservoirs. It may require 20-30 applications to fully eliminate air bubbles.
4. Remove bleeding lines from master cylinder, then install master cylinder on vehicle, if necessary,
and connect brake lines.
It is not necessary to bleed entire hydraulic system after replacing master cylinder, providing
master cylinder has been bled and filled during installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8913
Brake Bleeding: Service and Repair Bleeding Brake Hydraulic System
Pressure Bleeding
Pressure Bleeding
A diaphragm type pressure bleeder must be used. It must have a rubber diaphragm between the
air supply and brake fluid to prevent air, moisture, oil, and other contaminants from entering the
hydraulic system.
NOTICE: Brake fluid can damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent brake fluid from contacting these areas. Always
re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: Brake Bleeder Adapter J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the pressure tank at least 2,3 full of brake fluid. The bleeder must be bled each time fluid is
added. 2. Charge the bleeder to 140 - 170 kPa ( 20-25 psi ).
3. Install the bleeder adapter. 4. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have
air trapped inside, it must be bled next. 5. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front. D. Left front.
6. Connect the hose from the bleeder to the adapter at the master cylinder. 7. Open the tank valve.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8914
8. Attach a hose to the bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
9. Open the bleeder valve at least 3/4 of a turn and allow the fluid to flow until no air is seen in the
fluid.
10. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ). 11. Repeat Steps 9 through 11 at all wheels.
12. Check the brake pedal for "sponginess."
^ Repeat the entire bleeding procedure if this condition is found.
13. Disconnect the hose from the bleeder adapter. 14. Remove the bleeder adapter. 15. Fill the
master cylinder to the proper level.
Manual Bleeding
BLEEDING BRAKE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM
Bleeding is necessary if air has entered the hydraulic brake system. It may be necessary to bleed
the system at all four wheels if a low fluid level allowed the air to enter the system or the brake
pipes have been disconnected at the master cylinder or combination valve. If a pipe is
disconnected at one wheel, then bleed only that wheel.
The time required to bleed the hydraulic system when the master cylinder is removed can be
reduced by bench bleeding the master cylinder before installing it on the vehicle.
Manual Bleeding
If the vehicle is equipped with a vacuum booster, relieve the vacuum reserve by applying the
brakes several times with the engine off.
NOTICE: Brake fluid will damage electrical connections and painted surfaces. Use shop cloths,
suitable containers, and fender covers to prevent the brake fluid from contacting these areas.
Always re-seal and wipe off brake fluid containers to prevent spills.
Tools Required: J 28434 Wheel Cylinder Bleeder Wrench
1. Fill the master cylinder reservoir with Delco Supreme 11® Hydraulic Brake Fluid GM P/N
1052535 or an equivalent DOT 3 motor vehicle brake
fluid.
^ Maintain the fluid level during bleeding.
2. If the master cylinder is suspected to have air in the bore, bleed it before any wheel cylinder or
caliper.
A. Disconnect the forward brake pipe connection at the master cylinder. B. Allow the brake fluid to
flow from the connector port. C. Connect the brake pipe but do not tighten. D. Slowly apply the
brake pedal and allow the air to bleed from the loose fitting. E. Tighten the fitting before releasing
the pedal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Bleeding > System
Information > Service and Repair > Four Wheel Anitlock Brake System > Page 8915
F. Wait 15 seconds. G. Repeat this sequence, including the 1 5-second wait, until all air is purged
from the bore. H. After all air has been removed from the forward connection, repeat this procedure
for the rear pipe.
3. If the BPMV of the 4WAL system is replaced or suspected to have air trapped inside, it must be
bled next. 4. Bleed each wheel in the following sequence:
A. Right rear. B. Left rear. C. Right front D. Left front
5. Attach a hose to the wheel cylinder/caliper bleeder valve.
^ Immerse the opposite end of the hose into a container partially filled with clean brake fluid.
6. Slowly apply the brake pedal one time and hold. 7. Loosen the bleeder valve to purge the air
from the wheel cylinder/caliper. 8. Tighten the bleeder valve to 13 Nm ( 110 lb. in. ) and slowly
release the pedal. 9. Wait 15 seconds.
10. Repeat this sequence, including the 15-second wait until all air is purged from the wheel
cylinder/caliper. 11. Repeat steps 5 through 10 at each wheel until the system is bled. 12. Check
the brake pedal for "sponginess" and the brake warning lamp for an indication of unbalanced
pressure. Repeat the bleeding procedure to
correct either of these conditions.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Bleeder Valve 9.5 ft.lb
Brake Hose To Caliper Bolt 33 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt 28 ft.lb
Caliper Support Key Bolt 15 ft.lb
Rear Caliper Anchor Plate To Axle 177 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Specifications > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8920
Brake Caliper: Specifications
Bleeder Valve (Delco) 5 ft.lb
Bleeder Valve (Bendix) 9.5 ft.lb
Brake Hose To Caliper Bolt 33 ft.lb
Caliper Mounting Bolt 38 ft.lb
Caliper Support Key Bolt 15 ft.lb
Rear Brake Anchor Pin Vehicles w/ gross vehicle weight of 7200 lbs., 147 ft. lbs.
Vehicles at or above gross vehicle weight of 8400 lbs., 228
ft. lbs.
Rear Caliper Anchor Plate To Axle 177 ft.lb
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Fig. 1 Disc Brake Assembly
The Bendix single piston sliding caliper disc brake is standard equipment on some truck
applications, while on other trucks it is used only in Hydro-Boost power brake applications with both
front disc brakes and 4 wheel disc brakes. On 4 wheel disc brakes, the front and rear systems are
identical. The sliding caliper attaches to and slides on the steering knuckle. The caliper assembly is
held in place with a support key and spring Fig. 1. A screw prevents the key from sliding on the
steering knuckle. The friction material is bonded with rivets. The inboard and outboard brake pads
are not interchangeable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8923
Brake Caliper: Description and Operation Delco-Moraine Single Piston Caliper
With Delco-Moraine 3400 Caliper
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly.
The caliper assembly slides on its mounting surfaces, Fig. 2. Upon brake application, hydraulic
pressure against the piston forces the inboard pad against the inboard side of the disc. This action
causes the caliper assembly to slide until the outboard pad comes into contact with the disc, which
in turn creates a slowing or stopping action.
With Delco-Moraine 3486 Caliper
Fig. 3 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly.
The caliper assembly slides on its mounting surfaces, Fig. 3. Upon brake application, hydraulic
pressure against the piston forces the inboard pad against the inboard side of the disc. This action
causes the caliper assembly to slide until the outboard pad comes into contact with the disc, which
in turn creates a slowing or stopping action.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Description and Operation > Page 8924
Brake Caliper: Testing and Inspection
Should it become necessary to remove the caliper for installation of new parts, clean all parts in
denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out drilled passages
and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are evident, new boots
should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for scoring or pitting.
Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus cloth. However,
bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of the bore is not
increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this specification, a new caliper
housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused by piston seals and will do
no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before honing bore. The baffle is
used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in cleaning the caliper after
honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured alcohol. Wipe dry with clean
lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper
Removal/Installation
REMOVAL
Fig. 2 Bottoming Position In Bore
Fig. 3 Removing Caliper Support Key
Fig. 4 Removing Or Installing Caliper
1. Siphon two-thirds of brake fluid from master cylinder reservoir serving front disc brakes.
2. Raise vehicle, support on jack stands and remove front wheels.
3. Bottom the caliper piston in bore. Insert a screwdriver between inboard shoe and piston, then pry
piston back into bore. The piston can also be bottomed in the bore with a large C-clamp, Fig. 2.
4. Remove support key retaining screw.
5. Drive caliper support key and spring from steering knuckle with a suitable drift and hammer, Fig.
3.
6. Lift caliper from anchor plate and off rotor, Fig. 4. Hang caliper from coil spring with wire. Do not
allow caliper to hang from brake hose.
7. Remove inboard pad from steering knuckle, then the anti-rattle spring from the pad.
8. Remove outboard pad from caliper. It may be necessary to loosen the pad with a hammer to
permit removal.
INSTALLATION
1. Clean and lubricate sliding surfaces of caliper and the anchor plate with Delco Silicone Lube,
P/N 5459912, or equivalent.
2. Install anti-rattle spring on inboard pad, and ensure looped section of clip is facing away from
rotor.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8927
3. Install inboard pad in steering knuckle.
4. Install outboard pad in caliper. Ensure pad is seated fully into outboard arms of caliper. It may be
necessary to tap the ears and bottom tab with a hammer to seat the pad being careful not to hit the
friction material.
5. Place caliper assembly over rotor and position in steering knuckle. Ensure dust boot is not torn
or improperly positioned by inboard pad during caliper installation.
6. Align caliper with steering knuckle abutment surfaces, then insert support key and spring
between abutment surfaces at the trailing end of caliper and steering knuckle. With a hammer and
brass drift, drive caliper support key and spring into position, then install and torque support key
retaining screw to 12-18 ft. lbs.
7. Refill master cylinder to within one inch of rim. Press brake pedal several times to seat pads.
8. Install front wheels and lower vehicle.
Disassembly/Inspection/Assembly
DISASSEMBLY
Fig. 5 Removing Caliper Piston
Fig. 6 Exploded View Of Disc Brake Caliper Assembly
1. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
2. Position caliper with shop cloths, Fig. 5, and apply compressed air to fluid inlet port to ease
piston from bore. Do not attempt to catch piston or to protect it when applying compressed air,
since personal injury is possible.
3. Remove dust boot, then the piston seal from bore, Fig. 6. Use wooden or plastic tool to remove
piston seal since metal tools may damage piston.
4. Remove bleeder screw
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out
drilled passages and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are
evident, new boots should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for
scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus
cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of
the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this
specification, a new caliper housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused
by piston seals and will do no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before
honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in
cleaning the caliper after honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured
alcohol. Wipe dry with clean lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
ASSEMBLY
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8928
Fig. 7 Installing Caliper Piston Boot
Fig. 8 Installing Piston In Caliper
1. Coat square cut piston seal with clean brake fluid, then install seal into piston bore. Work seal
into groove with clean fingers.
2. Install and torque bleeder screw to specifications.
3. Lubricate boot and installation tool No. J-24548 with clean brake fluid, then place dust seal on
tool, allowing 1/4 inch of tool to extend past small lip of boot, Fig. 7.
4. Place dust seal and tool over piston bore, then work large lip of boot into seal groove, Fig. 8.
Ensure dust seal is fully seated.
5. Lubricate caliper piston and insert through tool. Center piston in bore and use a hammer handle
to apply pressure to install piston halfway into bore, Fig. 8.
6. Remove installation tool No. J-24548 and seat small lip of boot in caliper piston groove, then
bottom piston in bore.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8929
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Delco-Moraine Single Piston Caliper
Removal/Installation
REMOVAL
Fig. 2 Compressing Piston & Pad With C-clamp
1. Siphon enough brake fluid out of the master cylinder to bring fluid level to 1/3 full to avoid fluid
overflow when the caliper piston is pushed back into its bore.
2. Raise and support vehicle, remove front wheels.
3. Using a C-clamp, as illustrated in Fig. 2, push piston back into its bore.
4. Remove two mounting bolts and lift caliper away from disc.
INSTALLATION
1. Position caliper over disc, lining up mounting holes in caliper with holes in mounting bracket. If
brake hose was not disconnected during removal, be sure not to kink it during installation.
2. Start mounting bolts through sleeves in inboard caliper ears and the mounting bracket, making
sure ends of bolts pass under ears on inboard shoe. Right and left calipers must not be
interchanged.
3. Push mounting bolts through to engage holes in the outboard ears. Then thread mounting bolts
into bracket.
4. Torque mounting bolts to specifications.
5. If brake hose was removed, reconnect it and bleed the calipers.
6. Replace front wheels, lower vehicle and add brake fluid to master cylinder to bring level to 1/4
inch from top. Before moving vehicle, pump brake pedal several times to be sure it is firm. Do not
move vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained.
Disassembly/Inspection/Assembly
DISASSEMBLY
Fig. 4 Removing Piston From Caliper
1. Disconnect hose from the caliper being careful not to lose copper washers.
2. Remove caliper as outlined above.
3. Drain brake fluid from caliper.
4. Pad caliper interior with clean shop towels and apply compressed air to remove piston, Fig. 4.
Use just enough air pressure to ease piston out of
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8930
bore. When applying compressed air do not place fingers in front of piston in an attempt to catch or
protect it as this could result in serious injury.
5. Carefully pry dust boot out of bore.
6. Using a small piece of wood or plastic, remove piston seal from bore. Do not use a metal tool of
any kind to remove seal as it may damage bore.
7. Remove bleeder valve.
INSPECTION
Clean all parts in denatured alcohol, wipe dry using lint-free cloths. Using compressed air, blow out
drilled passages and bores. Check dust boots for punctures or tears. If punctures or tears are
evident, new boots should be installed upon reassembly. Inspect piston bores in both housings for
scoring or pitting. Bores that show light scratches or corrosion can usually be cleaned with crocus
cloth. However, bores that have deep scratches or scoring may be honed, provided the diameter of
the bore is not increased more than .002 inch. If the bore does not clean up within this
specification, a new caliper housing should be installed (black stains on the bore walls are caused
by piston seals and will do no harm). When using a hone, be sure to install the hone baffle before
honing bore. The baffle is used to protect the hone stones from damage. Use extreme care in
cleaning the caliper after honing. Remove all dust and grit by flushing the caliper with denatured
alcohol. Wipe dry with clean lint-free cloth and then clean a second time in the same manner.
ASSEMBLY
Fig. 5 Installing Boot To Piston
Fig. 6 Installing Boot To Caliper
1. Lubricate caliper piston bore and new piston seal with clean brake fluid. Position seal in bore
groove.
2. Lubricate piston with clean brake fluid and assemble a new boot into the groove in the piston so
the fold faces the open end of the piston, Fig. 5.
3. Using care not to unseat the seal, insert piston into bore and force the piston to the bottom of the
bore.
4. Position dust boot in caliper counterbore and install, Fig. 6. Check the boot installation to be sure
the retaining ring molded into the boot is not bent and that the boot is installed below the caliper
face and evenly all around. If the boot is not fully installed, dirt and moisture may enter the bore
and cause corrosion.
5. If available, use new copper washers discarding the old washers and install the brake hose to
the caliper.
6. Install pads and caliper assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8931
Brake Caliper: Service and Repair Removal and Installation
Delco
CALIPER
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Tire and wheel.
^ On models with composite rotor, reinstall two lug nuts to retain rotor.
Compressing Piston Prior To Caliper Removal
4. Compress piston using adjustable pliers over inboard lining (7) tab and caliper housing flange
(12).
5. Brake hose from caliper by removing inlet fitting bolt (14). 6. Mounting bolts (2).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8932
7. Bolt boots (1).
Suspending The Caliper
8. Caliper (12).
Delco Shoe And Lining Assembly (3400)
9. Mounting bolt seals (4), if used. 10. Bushings (3).
NOTE: Inspect the mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies for corrosion. Replace if any is found. Do
not attempt to polish away corrosion. Inspect bolt boots for nicks, cuts, or corrosion. Replace if any
are found.
NOTE: Clean the caliper assembly and install a new brake hardware kit anytime it is removed from
rotor.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM PIN 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8933
Delco Shoe And Lining Assembly (3400)
1. New bushings (3) and bolt seals (4).
Mounting Bolt Lubrication (Delco 3400)
2. Lubricate bushings (3) and mounting bolt seals (4) with GM P/N 18010909 or equivalent. 3. New
bolt boots (1). 4. Caliper (12).
^ Fill both housing cavities between bushings (3) with GM P/N 18010909, or equivalent.
5. Mounting bolt and sleeve assemblies (2).
^ Tighten bolt (2) to 51 Nm (38 lb. ft.). The bolt boots (1) must remain secure after tightening bolts.
6. Brake hose to caliper.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8934
Caliper To Bracket Clearance
7. Measure clearance between caliper (12) and bracket stops (16). If necessary, remove caliper
and file the ends of bracket (16) to obtain 0.26 to 0.60
mm (0.010 to 0.024 inch) total clearance. Measure the clearances individually and add them
together.
8. Tire and wheel.
NOTE: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm. Do
not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the fluid level in the master cylinder after
pumping the brakes.
Bendix
CALIPER
Shoe And Lining Assembly
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Mark relationship of wheel to hub. 4. Tire and wheel.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8935
Compressing The Caliper Piston
5. Position a C-clamp and tighten until piston bottoms in bore. 6. C-Clamp. 7. Brake hose.
Caliper Mounting
8. Bolt (2). 9. Support key (3) and spring (4).
Removing The Caliper Support Key
^ Use a brass punch and a hammer to drive the support key out.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8936
Suspending The Caliper
10. Caliper assembly (1).
NOTE: Inspect the inside of the caliper assembly for signs of fluid leakage.
Clean: Use a wire brush to remove any corrosion from the machined surfaces of the anchor plate
and caliper.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM PIN 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
1. Lubricate caliper and anchor plate sliding surfaces with Shell Aeroshell No. 5, or equivalent.
Suspending The Caliper
2. Caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Make sure the brake hose Is not twisted or kinked after installation. Damage to the hose
could result.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8937
CAUTION: Do not use anti-seize type products on the caliper V-ways and anchor plate guide way
surfaces. These products are not lubricants and result in high caliper slide forces, which can cause
increased wear of the brake pads.
Installing The Caliper Support Key
3. Spring (4) and support key (3). Use a brass punch and hammer to drive the support key in place.
4. Caliper lock mounting bolts. The boss on the bolt must fit into the circular cutout in the key.
^ Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.).
5. Brake hose.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
6. Bleed brake system. Refer to Hydraulic System Service and Repair. 7. Tire and wheel. 8. Lower
the vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm.
Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder after pumping the brakes.
Rear Disc Brakes
CALIPER
Remove or Disconnect
1. Two-thirds of the brake fluid from master cylinder. 2. Raise vehicle and support with safety
stands. 3. Mark relationship of wheel to hub. 4. Tire and wheel.
Compressing The Caliper Piston
5. Position a C-clamp and tighten until piston bottoms in bore. 6. C-Clamp. 7. Brake hose.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8938
Disc Brake Assembly
8. Bolt (2). 9. Support key (3) and spring (4).
Removing The Caliper Support Key
^ Use a brass punch and a hammer to drive the support key out.
Suspending The Caliper
10. Caliper assembly (1).
NOTE: Inspect the inside of the caliper assembly for signs of fluid leakage. If any is found, refer to
Overhaul.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8939
Clean: Use a wire brush to remove any corrosion from the machined surfaces of the anchor plate
and caliper.
Install or Connect
CAUTION: Always use the correct fastener in the proper location. When you replace a fastener,
use ONLY the exact part number for that application. General Motors will call out those fasteners
that require a replacement after removal. General Motors will also call out the fasteners that require
thread lockers or thread sealant. Unless otherwise specified, do not use supplemental coatings
(paints, greases, or other corrosion inhibitors) on threaded fasteners or fastener joint interfaces.
Generally, such coatings adversely affect the fastener torque and joint clamping force, and may
damage the fastener. When you install fasteners, use the correct tightening sequence and
specifications. Following these instructions can help you avoid damage to parts and systems.
NOTE: Any new rotor must have the protective coating removed from the friction surfaces before
being placed in service. Use Goodwrench Brake Parts Cleaner (GM P/N 12345754), or equivalent,
and wipe the surface clean with clean cloths. Do not use gasoline, kerosene or other oil-based
solvents which may leave an oily residue. This residue is damaging to brake linings and flammable.
1. Lubricate caliper and anchor plate sliding surfaces with Shell Aeroshell Grade 5 lubricant or
equivalent.
Suspending The Caliper
2. Caliper assembly.
CAUTION: Make sure the brake hose Is not twisted or kinked after installation. Damage to the hose
could result.
CAUTION: Do not use "never sieze" type products on the caliper V-ways and anchor plate guide
way surfaces. These products are not lubricants and result in high caliper slide forces, which can
cause increased wear of the brake pads.
Installing The Caliper Support Key
3. Spring (4) and support key (3). Use a brass punch and hammer to drive the support key in place.
4. Caliper lock mounting bolts. The boss on the bolt must fit into the circular cutout in the key.
^ Tighten bolts to 20 Nm (15 lb. ft.).
5. Brake hose.
^ Tighten brake hose bolt to 45 Nm (33 lb. ft.).
6. Bleed brake system. Refer to Hydraulic System Service and Repair.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Caliper > Component
Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Single Piston Sliding Caliper > Page 8940
7. Tire and wheel. 8. Lower the vehicle.
CAUTION: Before moving the vehicle, pump the brake pedal several times to make sure it is firm.
Do not move the vehicle until a firm pedal is obtained. Check the brake fluid level in the master
cylinder after pumping the brakes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
Brake Fluid: Technical Service Bulletins Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations
File In Section: 05 - Brakes
Bulletin No.: 00-05-22-004
Date: May, 2000
INFORMATION
Subject: Brake Fluid Level and Filling Recommendations
Models: 2001 and Prior Passenger Cars and Trucks
Many dealers and after-market repair shops advertise multi-point fluid "top-ups" in conjunction with
oil changes or regular maintenance packages. These offers often include adding brake fluid to the
master cylinder reservoir. There are only two reasons why the brake fluid level in the brake
reservoir might go down. The first is that the brake fluid level goes down an acceptable level during
normal brake lining wear. When the linings are replaced, the fluid will return to it's original level.
The second possible reason for a low fluid level is that fluid is leaking out of the brake system. If
fluid is leaking, the brake system requires repair and adding additional fluid will not correct the leak.
If the system was properly filled during delivery of the vehicle, no additional fluid should be required
under most circumstances between brake pad and/or shoe replacements. This information can be
reinforced with the customer by referring them to the Brake Fluid section of their vehicle's Owner's
Manual.
Guidelines
GM vehicles have incorporated a variety of brake fluid reservoir styles. The following guidelines are
restricted to the plastic bodied fluid reservoirs and do not affect the original service
recommendations for the older style metal bodied units.
You may encounter both black plastic and translucent style reservoirs. You may have reservoirs
with:
^ A MAX fill mark only
^ A MIN fill mark only
^ Both MAX and MIN marks
The translucent style reservoirs do not have to have the covers removed in order to view the fluid
level. It is a good practice not to remove the reservoir cover unless necessary to reduce the
possibility of contaminating the system. Use the following guidelines to assist in determining the
proper fluid level.
Important:
When adding brake fluid, use Delco Supreme II(R) Brake Fluid, GM P/N 12377967 or equivalent
brand bearing the DOT-3 rating only.
Important:
At no time should the fluid level be allowed to remain in an overfilled condition. Overfilling the brake
reservoir may put unnecessary stress on the seals and cover of the reservoir. Use the following
guidelines to properly maintain the fluid level. If the reservoir is overfilled, siphon out the additional
fluid to comply with the guidelines below.
Important:
If under any circumstance the brake fluid level is extremely low in the reservoir or the BRAKE
warning indicator is illuminated, the brake system should be checked for leaks and the system
repaired in addition to bringing the fluid level up to the recommended guidelines outlined below. A
leaking brake system will have reduced braking performance and will eventually not work at all.
Important:
Some vehicles have reservoirs that are very sensitive to brake fluid levels and may cause the
BRAKE indicator to flicker on turns as the fluid approaches the minimum required level. If you
encounter a vehicle with this concern, increase the fluid level staying within the guidelines outlined
below.
^ If the reservoir has a MAX level indicator, the reservoir should be returned to the MAX marking
only at the time new brake pads and/or shoes are installed. If the reservoir fluid level is at the
half-way point or above do not attempt to add additional brake fluid during routine fluid checks.
^ If the reservoir has both MAX and MIN indicators, the fluid level should be maintained above the
MIN indicator during routine fluid checks and returned to the MAX indication only after new brake
pads and/or shoes are installed.
^ For reservoirs with only a MIN indication, the fluid level should be maintained above the MIN
indicator during routine fluid checks. Return the
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brake Fluid - Level & Filling Recommendations > Page 8945
reservoir fluid level to full only after installing new brake pads and/or shoes. A full reservoir is
indicated on translucent, snap cover reservoirs by a fluid level even with the top level of the view
window imprinted into the side of the reservoir. On screw top models in black or translucent plastic,
the full level is just below the bottom of the filler neck.
Parts Information
Part Number Description
12377967 Brake Fluid
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8946
Brake Fluid: Specifications
Brake System DOT 3
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Fluid Pressure
Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations
Behind I/P Compartment Box on HVAC Plenum
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Description and Operation
These vehicles use either a two function or three function combination valve. Some vehicles use a
height sensitive proportioning valve in addition to the combination valve.
The two function combination valve consists of a metering valve and a brake failure warning switch.
The hydraulic brake lines are routed through this valve to the wheel cylinders or calipers. The
metering portion of this valve assists in providing balanced front to rear braking by delaying full
hydraulic fluid pressure to the front disc brakes until the rear drum brakes overcome return spring
tension and the linings contact the drums. The brake failure warning switch portion of the valve
activates the brake warning lamp when there is a loss of pressure in either the front or the rear
braking system.
The three function combination valve consists of a metering valve, a brake failure warning switch,
and a proportioning valve. The metering valve and brake failure warning switch operate the same
as those in the two function combination valve previously described.
The proportioning section of the valve proportions outlet pressure to the rear brakes after a certain
rear input pressure has been reached, preventing rear wheel lock-up.
The height sensitive proportioning valve provides ideal brake balance according to weight at rear
axle. This valve is mounted on the frame and responds to changes in vehicle trim height in relation
to rear axle load. Mechanical linkage connects the valve to a bracket attached to the rear axle.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8953
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Adjustments
Fig. 9 Height Sensing Proportioning Valve
Fig. 10 Adjustment Gauge Installation
The height sensing proportioning valve must be adjusted whenever the valve and/or linkage is
disassembled or removed for service. In addition, adjustment should be checked if excessive front
wheel lock-up is experienced with a lower than desired brake application rate when vehicle is at or
near maximum GVWR.
1. Raise and support vehicle leaving wheels on, and allow axle to hang free (no load condition).
2. Remove lever retaining nut and disconnect lever from valve shaft, Fig. 9.
3. Rotate valve shaft to permit installation of correct adjustment gauge, Fig. 10, ensuring that D
shaped hole of gauge is properly seated on valve shaft and that gauge tang engages mounting
hole in valve. Adjustment gauges vary depending upon vehicle application. Correct gauge must be
used to ensure proper operation of braking system.
4. Install lever on valve shaft by pressing plastic bushing and clip assembly over shaft serrations
using C-clamp or suitable pliers. Do not press lever onto shaft using retaining nut, as adjustment of
valve will be disturbed.
5. Install lever retaining nut and torque to 70-98 inch lbs.
6. Cut tang off adjustment gauge and allow valve to rotate freely.
7. Lower vehicle and test brakes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake
Proportioning/Combination Valve > Component Information > Description and Operation > Page 8954
Brake Proportioning/Combination Valve: Service and Repair
Fig. 228 Combination Valve Replacement.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove bolts securing shield (if equipped) and Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) to
EHCU bracket.
3. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector, then the front and rear brake pipes.
Prevent fluid spillage with clean shop towels.
4. Remove bolts securing combination valve to BPMV, Fig. 228, then separate valve from BPMV.
5. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Torque combination valve mounting bolts alternately to 6 ft. lbs., then to 12 ft. lbs. b. Torque
brake pipe fittings to 18 ft. lbs. c. Bleed brake system. Refer to Brakes / Service and Repair /
Bleeding Brakes. See: Service and Repair
Ensure combination valve metering rod is depressed during bleeding.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Locations
Underhood Fuse-Relay Center
Brake Pressure Modulator Valve
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 8958
Vehicle Control Module
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Hydraulic Control Assembly Antilock Brakes > Component Information > Locations > Page 8959
Hydraulic Control Assembly - Antilock Brakes: Service and Repair
The BPMV is not serviceable and must be replaced as a unit.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Disconnect four EBCM electrical connectors.
3. Disconnect combination valve electrical connector and brake pipes.
Use shop towels to prevent brake fluid spillage.
4. Disconnect hydraulic lines at BPMV tube adapters, then remove EHCU from vehicle.
5. Remove four Torx bolts from EBCM, then separate BPMV from EBCM.
Do not pry on components to separate.
6. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Install a new EBCM gasket, mounting bolts and transfer tubes. Do not reuse these components.
b. Torque combination valve bolts alternately to 6 ft. lbs., then to 12 ft. lbs. c. Torque EBCM Torx
bolts to 39 inch lbs. in a crisscross pattern. d. Torque EHCU to base bracket bolts and BPMV bolts
to 7 ft. lbs. e. Torque brake pipe fittings to 18 ft. lbs., then bleed brake system. See: Brake Bleeding
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Description and Operation
Brake Master Cylinder: Description and Operation
Master Cylinder
Some vehicles use a conventional tandem master cylinder with two hydraulic pistons operating in
line. The primary piston controls the front brake system and the secondary piston controls the rear
brake system.
Other models use a master cylinder that operates the same as the conventional master cylinder,
but also incorporates a quick take-up feature in the rear chamber to reduce excessive pedal travel
which may result from increased fluid displacement required to move the low drag caliper piston
out against the rotor.
The quick take-up uses a spring-loaded ball check valve to hold pressure in the large diameter rear
chamber when the brakes are first applied. At initial application, movement of the rear piston
causes fluid to be displaced forward past the primary piston seal into the primary high pressure
chamber. At a specified pressure, the ball unseats and fluid from the large rear bore is displaced
past the bore into the reservoir. When the brake pedal is released, suction generated in the large
bore chamber replenishes its fluid supply by drawing fluid from the reservoir around the quick
take-up lip seal and through a small bleed orifice in the ball seat.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Type Master Cylinder
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Bendix Type Master Cylinder
Power Brake Systems
1. Disconnect all wire connectors from master cylinder components. 2. Disconnect brake lines from
master cylinder. 3
Remove master cylinder mounting nuts, then the master cylinder.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Manual Brake Systems
1. Disconnect master cylinder pushrod from brake pedal. 2. Disconnect all wire connectors from
master cylinder components. 3. Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder. 4. Remove master
cylinder mounting nuts, then the master cylinder. 5. Reverse procedure to install.
Disassembly/Assembly
Fig. 6 Exploded View Of Master Cylinder.
1. Remove master cylinder from vehicle.
2. Clean outside of master cylinder, then remove reservoir cover and diaphragm.
3. Drain brake fluid from reservoir, then remove reservoir attaching bolts and reservoir.
4. Remove O-ring, compensating valve seals, valve poppets and springs.
5. Depress primary piston, then remove snap ring.
6. Remove primary piston assembly and piston return spring.
7. Remove secondary piston assembly by applying small amount of air pressure to front
compensating valve port. Ensure front port is plugged.
8. Remove secondary spring.
9. Reverse procedure to assemble, noting the following: a.
Inspect cylinder bore for scoring and corrosion. Replace master cylinder if necessary.
b. Clean all metal parts in denatured alcohol.
c. Clean all rubber parts in clean brake fluid.
d. Polish discolored or stained cylinder with crocus cloth, then rinse in clean brake fluid. Ensure
compensating port is clean.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Type Master Cylinder > Page 8965
Brake Master Cylinder: Service and Repair Delco Moraine Type
Power Brake Systems
1. Disconnect all wire connectors from master cylinder components. 2. Disconnect brake lines from
master cylinder. 3
Remove master cylinder mounting nuts, then the master cylinder.
4. Reverse procedure to install.
Manual Brake Systems
1. Disconnect master cylinder pushrod from brake pedal. 2. Disconnect all wire connectors from
master cylinder components. 3. Disconnect brake lines from master cylinder. 4. Remove master
cylinder mounting nuts, then the master cylinder. 5. Reverse procedure to install.
Composite Type
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Master Cylinder
Disassembly
1. Remove master cylinder from vehicle.
2. Remove reservoir cover and diaphragm. Discard old brake fluid in reservoir.
3. Inspect cover and diaphragm. Replace if cut, cracked or deformed.
4. Remove fluid level switch and proportioner valve assembly, if equipped.
5. Depress primary piston and remove lock ring.
6. Plug primary fluid outlet (outlet nearest to cowl when master cylinder is installed), then apply
compressed air into secondary fluid outlet to remove primary and secondary pistons.
7. Remove spring retainer and seals from secondary piston.
8. Clamp master cylinder in a vise, then remove reservoir using a pry bar. Remove reservoir
grommets.
9. Inspect master cylinder bore for corrosion. Do not use abrasive material on master cylinder bore.
Replace if bore is corroded.
Assembly
Clean all parts not included in repair kit with brake fluid. Do not dry with compressed air. Lubricate
all rubber parts with clean brake fluid prior to installation.
1. Lubricate new reservoir grommets with silicone brake lube, then press grommets into master
cylinder body. Ensure grommets are properly seated.
2. Lay reservoir upside down on flat, hard surface. Press master cylinder body onto reservoir using
rocking motion.
3. Install new seals on secondary piston, then the spring retainer.
4. Install spring and secondary piston assembly into cylinder.
5. Install primary piston. Depress primary piston into cylinder, then install lock ring.
6. Install fluid level switch and proportioner valve assembly, if equipped.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Type Master Cylinder > Page 8966
7. Fit diaphragm into reservoir cover, then install cover onto reservoir.
8. Install master cylinder in vehicle.
Cast Iron Type
Fig. 4 Exploded View Of Master Cylinder.
Fig. 5 Secondary Piston & Seals.
Disassembly
1. Remove master cylinder from vehicle.
2. Clean outside of master cylinder, then remove reservoir cover and diaphragm.
3. Turn master cylinder over, then pump pushrod by hand to remove any remaining brake fluid.
4. Clamp master cylinder in a vise, with vise jaws gripping mounting flange and fluid ports pointing
up. Do not clamp master cylinder body in vise.
5. Remove lock ring and primary piston assembly from cylinder bore.
6. Apply compressed air to secondary outlet port to remove secondary piston spring and retainer.
7. Using a 13/64 inch drill, enlarge hole in tube fitting insert of fluid outlet holes. Place a heavy
washer over outlet hole, then thread a 1/4 X 20 X 3/4 screw into insert. Tighten screw until insert is
unseated, then remove insert, screw and washer.
8. Remove primary and secondary seal from secondary piston.
Inspection
Clean all parts not included in repair kit with brake fluid. Do not dry with compressed air.
1. Inspect cylinder bore for scoring and corrosion. Replace master cylinder if necessary.
2. Polish discolored or stained cylinder with crocus cloth, then rinse in clean brake fluid. Ensure
compensating port is clean.
Assembly
Lubricate all rubber parts with clean brake fluid prior to installation.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Brake Master Cylinder >
Component Information > Service and Repair > Bendix Type Master Cylinder > Page 8967
1. With master cylinder in a vise, insert brass tube fitting inserts from overhaul kit into outlet holes.
2. Using spare brake line tube, thread tube nut into outlet hole and turn down until tube fitting insert
bottoms into outlet hole. Remove tube nut and inspect outlet hole for burrs.
3. Install inner secondary seal into groove in secondary piston.
4. Install primary seal over end of secondary piston, with flat side of seal against flange of piston.
5. Install outer secondary seal into groove in end of secondary piston.
6. Install secondary piston spring retainer into secondary piston spring, then place the retainer and
spring over end of secondary piston, with retainer seated inside lip of primary cup.
7. Hold master cylinder with open end down, then place secondary piston assembly into bore, with
spring seated against end of bore.
8. Clamp master cylinder in a vise with open end of bore facing up.
9. Insert new primary piston assembly, spring end first, into bore.
10. Hold primary piston down, then install lock ring in groove on inside of bore.
11. Install new reservoir diaphragm into reservoir cover with beaded side out, then secure cover
onto cylinder.
12. Install master cylinder in vehicle. Bleed brakes.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Wheel Cylinder: Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Wheel Cylinder Inspection Guidelines
Bulletin No.: 03-05-24-001A
Date: March 21, 2005
INFORMATION
Subject: Service Information Regarding Rear Brake Drum Wheel Cylinder Inspections
Models: 2005 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2005 and Prior Saturn Vehicles
with Rear Drum Brakes
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised add model years and include all GM vehicles. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 03-05-24-001 (Section 03 - Suspension).
This bulletin provides information on proper inspection of rear drum brake wheel cylinders.
Important:
It is not recommended that dust boots be removed during inspection processes as dirt and debris
could contaminate the wheel cylinder bore causing premature wear of the wheel cylinder. In
addition, most bores should look damp and some lubricant may drip out from under the boot as a
result of lubricant being present.
All rear drum brake wheel cylinders are assembled with a lubricant to aid in assembly, provide an
anti-corrosion coating to the cylinder bore, and lubricate internal rubber components. As a result of
this lubrication process, it is not uncommon for some amount of lubricant to accumulate at the ends
of the cylinder under the dust boot.
Over time, the lubricant may work its way to the outside of the boot and cause an area of the boot
to look damp. Evidence of a damp area on the boot does not indicate a leak in the cylinder.
However, if there is excessive wetness (i.e. drips) coming from the boot area of the wheel cylinder,
it could indicate a brake hydraulic fluid leak requiring wheel cylinder replacement. (Refer to the
Wheel Cylinder Replacement procedures in the appropriate Service Manual.)
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Hydraulic System, Brakes > Wheel Cylinder > Component
Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 8972
Wheel Cylinder: Service and Repair
Disassembled View Of Wheel Cylinder (typical)
1. Raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove wheel, drum and brake shoes.
3. Disconnect hydraulic line at wheel cylinder.
4. Remove wheel cylinder attaching screws, then remove wheel cylinder.
5. Strip cylinder of boots, pistons, springs and seals, Fig. 9.
6. Inspect cylinder bore for scoring and corrosion. Discoloration is a sign that springs have been
damaged by heat, replace them if necessary.
7. Clean cylinder bore with crocus cloth. If cleaning does not remove scoring, replace cylinder.
8. Lubricate cylinder bore and seals with brake fluid, then reassemble cylinder.
9. Reverse procedure to install. Bleed system. Refer to Brakes / Service and Repair / Brake
System Bleed. See: Service and Repair
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Parking Brake System > Parking Brake Cable > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection
Parking Brake Cable: Testing and Inspection
Inspect parking brake cable end for kinks, fraying and elongation, and replace as necessary. Use a
small hose clamp to compress clamp where it enters backing plate to remove.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Description and Operation
Fig. 1 Cross-sectional View Of Bendix Hydro-Boost Unit.
In order to properly service power brake systems, a thorough understanding of the power assist
system is necessary. These systems provide a mechanical assist, acting to increase the force
applied to the master cylinder piston by the driver while decreasing the effort necessary to obtain
acceptable stopping performance.
Hydraulic assist units incorporate a basic open center spool valve, hydraulic cylinder and an
accumulator assembly in a common housing. When the brake pedal is depressed, the hydraulic
piston moves forward closing off fluid relief passages, the spool valve applies fluid pressure to the
rear of the piston, and pressure applied to the piston is transmitted to the brake master cylinder
through a pushrod. When the brake pedal is released, fluid pressure behind the piston is exhausted
through the open center of the spool valve to a return line and the pump reservoir, and the spool
valve diverts fluid pressure away from the hydraulic piston. The accumulator stores sufficient fluid
under pressure to provide two or three power assisted stops in the event that pressure from the
pump is interrupted. The design of the hydraulic cylinder allows the brakes to be applied without
power assist, however, greater pedal effort is required to apply the brakes manually.
The Hydro-Boost system, Fig. 1, provides an additional cylinder in the brake system. This cylinder
contains no brake fluid. The Hydro-Boost cylinder is hydraulically operated, by pressurized fluid
from the power steering pump, providing power assist to operate a dual master cylinder brake
system.
The booster is composed of two sections; the linkage section and the power section.
The booster is designed so that if a total absence of power assist occurs, the brakes can be
applied manually, but somewhat greater pressure on the brake pedal is required.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Slow Brake Pedal Return
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Slow Brake Pedal Return
1. Excessive seal friction in booster. 2. Faulty spool action. 3. Restriction in return line from booster
to pump reservoir. 4. Damaged input rod end.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Slow Brake Pedal Return > Page 8983
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Grabby Brakes/ Booster Chatters/ Pedal Vibrates
1. Faulty spool action caused by contamination in system. 2. Power steering pump belts slip. 3.
Low fluid level in power steering pump. 4. Faulty spool operation caused by contamination in
system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Slow Brake Pedal Return > Page 8984
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Accumulator Leak-Down/ System Does Not Hold
Charge
1. Contamination in steering Hydro-Boost system. 2. Internal leakage in accumulator system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Service and Repair General Service Information
Certain general service procedures apply, regardless of whether the brakes are vacuum or
hydraulically assisted. Only top quality, clean brake fluid should be used. More seals and valves
are used with power brake systems than with ordinary brakes, so an inferior brake fluid will do
much more damage. For the same reason, be sure all dirt is kept out of the system. Additionally, on
models with hydraulic assist brakes, care must be taken not to mix the fluids of the booster
hydraulic system and brake hydraulic system as the fluids are not compatible.
If the power unit fails, the brakes will still operate, as the conventional brake system is left intact
and a power unit is simply added to the existing system. Troubleshooting is then exactly the same
up to the power unit. As with conventional hydraulic brakes, a spongy pedal with power brakes is
caused by air in the system and grease on the linings will cause the brakes to grab. However,
power brakes develop higher line pressure, thus making leaks more critical.
Power units do not require adjustment. If there is a problem, the various valves and connections
are simply replaced. The only exception is that the power units themselves sometimes have an
adjustable connection to the brake pedal or linkage.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 8987
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Service and Repair Bendix Brake Boosters
Hydro-Boost Assembly
Fig. 2 Removing Accumulator
Fig. 3 Typical Hydro-Boost Unit Disassembled
DISASSEMBLY
1. Place accumulator compressor tool No. J-26889 or equivalent, around the end of accumulator,
and install nut onto stud as shown in Fig. 2, then depress the accumulator with a C-clamp.
2. Remove retainer by using a suitable punch.
3. Release the C-clamp and remove accumulator compressor tool No. J-26889 or equivalent.
4. Remove accumulator, O-ring, retainer, plug and spring as shown in Fig. 3.
5. Remove retainer, output pushrod, baffle, piston return spring and retainer.
6. With a suitable saw, cut off the eyelet of the pedal rod, then remove the boot.
7. Remove nut, bracket and bolts, then separate cover from housing.
8. Remove piston assembly and seals.
9. Remove spool valve, then with a wire hook remove accumulator valve.
10. Remove return line fitting and seal.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 8988
Fig. 4 Spool valve inspection
CLEANING/INSPECTION
1. Clean all parts in a suitable solvent being careful to avoid losing small parts.
2. Inspect valve spool and valve spool bore in booster housing for corrosion, nicks, scoring or other
damage. Discoloration of the spool or bore, particularly in the grooves, is not harmful.
3. If the valve spool or the spool bore has nicks or scoring that can be felt with a fingernail,
particularly on the hands, the spool and housing should be replaced as an assembly, Fig. 4. The
clearance between the valve spool and the spool bore of the housing is important. Because of this,
the spool and housing make are made as a selective assembly and therefore can only be replaced
as an assembly.
4. Inspect the input rod and piston assembly for corrosion, nicks, scoring or excessive wear. If the
piston is damaged, the input rod and piston assembly should be replaced.
5. Inspect piston bore in booster housing for corrosion, nicks, scoring or other damage. If the bore
is damaged, the valve spool and housing should be replaced as an assembly.
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate all the seals and metal friction points with power steering fluid.
1. Install return line seal, then the fitting Fig. 3.
2. Install accumulator valve and spool valve into housing.
3. Install seal on piston assembly using seal protector tool No. J-25083 or equivalent.
4. Install seal onto the housing, then install cover and bolts. Torque housing bolts to 22 ft. lbs.
5. Install bracket and nut, then torque to 110 ft. lbs.
6. Install boot, output pushrod, baffle, piston return spring, and retainer using seal protector tool No.
2455l or equivalent.
7. Install retainer, spring, O-ring, and plug, using accumulator compressor tool No. J-26889 or
equivalent, and C-clamp.
8. Depress the accumulator, then install the retainer and remove C-clamp.
9. Jam nut from the repair kit onto pedal rod, and install eyelet onto pedal rod.
10. Adjust eyelet to required length.
Power Brake Unit, Remove
Pump brake pedal several times with engine off to deplete accumulator of fluid.
1. Remove two nuts attaching master cylinder to booster, then move master cylinder away from
booster with brake lines attached. 2. Remove hydraulic lines from booster. Plug and cap all lines
and outlets. 3. Remove retainer and washer securing booster pushrod to brake pedal arm. 4.
Remove nuts attaching booster unit to dash panel. 5. Loosen booster from dash panel and move
booster pushrod inboard until it disconnects from brake pedal arm. Remove spring washer from
brake
pedal arm.
6. Remove booster unit from vehicle. 7. Reverse procedure to install. To fill the Hydro-Boost
system, proceed as follows:
The power steering fluid and brake fluid cannot be intermixed. If the brake seals contact power
steering fluid or steering seals contact brake fluid, seal damage will result.
a. Fill power steering pump reservoir to the proper level and allow fluid to remain undisturbed for at
least two minutes. b. Start and operate engine momentarily. Add fluid, if necessary.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 8989
c. Repeat filling procedure until fluid level remains constant after operating engine. d. Raise and
support front of engine enough so front wheels do not contact floor. e. Turn steering wheel from
stop to stop, lightly contacting the stops. Add fluid, if necessary. f.
Lower vehicle.
g. Start engine and depress brake pedal several times while rotating the steering wheel from stop
to stop. h. Switch ignition to OFF position, then pump brake pedal four or five times. i.
Check fluid level, add fluid if necessary.
j. If fluid is extremely foamy, allow vehicle to stand for a few minutes with the engine not operating.
Then, repeat steps g through i.
k. Check for presence of air in the oil. Air in the oil will have a milky appearance. Air in the system
will also cause the fluid level in the pump to
rise when the ignition switch is turned to the OFF position. If the pump will not bleed the air after a
few attempts, check power steering system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 8990
Hydraulic Brake Booster: Service and Repair Bleeding Brake Boosters (Bendix Type)
1. Fill oil reservoir to proper level and let stand at least two minutes.
2. Start engine and run momentarily.
3. Add oil as necessary.
4. Repeat above procedure until oil level remains constant after running engine.
5. Raise and support front of vehicle.
6. Turn wheels left and right, lightly contacting stops.
7. Add oil as necessary.
8. Lower vehicle.
9. Start engine and depress brake pedal several times while rotating steering wheel from stop to
stop.
10. Turn engine off, then pump brake pedal four or five times to deplete accumulator pressure.
11. Check oil level, filling as necessary.
12. If oil is extremely foamy, allow vehicle to stand several minutes with engine off, then repeat
entire procedure.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Hydraulic Fluid Accumulator >
Component Information > Service and Repair
Hydraulic Fluid Accumulator: Service and Repair
Fig. 2 Removing Accumulator
Do not attempt to repair or apply heat to the accumulator. Before discarding an inoperative
accumulator, drill a 1/16 inch diameter hole through the end of the accumulator pan. Do not drill
through the piston end. Always wear safety glasses when performing service on the accumulator.
1. Push pedal rod several times to ensure accumulator is depleted.
2. Secure brake booster mounting bracket in a vise with pedal rod facing downward.
3. Place accumulator compressor tool No. J-26889 or equivalent, over master cylinder stud and
install retaining nut.
4. Using a C-clamp, depress accumulator can, then insert a punch into hole in housing to unseat
retaining ring, Fig. 2. Remove ring from housing using a small screwdriver. If accumulator cannot
easily be depressed approximately .10 inch, the accumulator is still charged. This indicates an
internal problem with the accumulator valves and the brake booster must be disassembled.
5. Slowly back off C-clamp until tension is relieved, then remove C-clamp, retaining cap and
accumulator.
6. Reverse procedure to assemble. Lubricate accumulator can seal with power steering fluid.
Ensure accumulator can retaining ring is completely seated in housing groove.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Description
Vacuum Brake Booster: Description and Operation General Description
In order to properly service power brake systems, a thorough understanding of the various power
assist systems is necessary. These systems provide a mechanical assist, acting to increase the
force applied to the master cylinder piston by the driver while decreasing the effort necessary to
obtain acceptable stopping performance. Two basic types of power assist mechanisms are used:
vacuum assist diaphragm assemblies which use engine vacuum and in some cases vacuum from
an external vacuum pump, and hydraulic assist assemblies which use hydraulic pressure
developed by an external pump (usually the power steering pump).
Vacuum assist units are similar in operation, using vacuum applied to a diaphragm or piston in
opposition to atmospheric pressure in order to increase the force applied to the master cylinder
piston. However, two types of vacuum assist assemblies are used, the air suspended type and the
vacuum suspended type. Air suspended units are under atmospheric pressure until the brakes are
applied, then engine vacuum is admitted causing the piston or diaphragm to move and apply force
to the master cylinder pushrod. Vacuum suspended types are balanced with engine vacuum until
the brake pedal is depressed, allowing atmospheric pressure to unbalance the unit and apply force
to the brake system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 8998
Vacuum Brake Booster: Description and Operation Single Diaphragm Type
Fig. 1 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Single Diaphragm Power Brake Unit
Fig. 2 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Single Diaphragm Power Piston Assembly
DESCRIPTION
These power brake units, Figs. 1 and 2, are a combination vacuum-hydraulic brake booster of the
vacuum suspended type which use engine intake manifold vacuum and atmospheric pressure for
its power.
These units consist of a vacuum power section and an hydraulic master cylinder section. The
vacuum power section contains a power piston with rolling diaphragm mechanism and power
piston return spring.
The control valve is made up of an air valve and floating vacuum control valve assembly. The
reaction mechanism consists of an hydraulic piston, reaction plate and a series of levers. The valve
operating rod, which operates the air valve, projects from the power section and is connected to the
brake pedal linkage.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 8999
The hydraulic pushrod operates against the master cylinder piston. A split system (tandem piston)
type master cylinder is incorporated into some units. The front half of the master cylinder in the split
system operates the rear brakes while the rear half of the master cylinder operates the front
brakes.
A vacuum check valve, attached to the front vacuum chamber and connected to the intake
manifold, traps vacuum in the power unit at the highest level of vacuum.
OPERATION
As the brakes are applied by the driver, the valve operating rod and control piston move forward in
the power piston assembly to compress the valve return spring and bring the poppet valve into
contact with the vacuum valve seat in the valve housing to close the vacuum post. Any additional
movement of the valve operating rod in the applied direction moves the control valve away from the
poppet valve to open the atmospheric port and admit air through the air filter and passages to the
chamber at the right of the vacuum power piston assembly. With vacuum on the left side of the
diaphragm and atmospheric pressure on the right side of the diaphragm, a force is developed to
move the vacuum power piston assembly, hydraulic pushrod, and hydraulic piston to the left to
close the compensating port and force hydraulic fluid under pressure through the residual check
valve and brake tubes into the brake wheel cylinders.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 9000
Vacuum Brake Booster: Description and Operation Tandem Diaphragm Type
Fig. 6 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Tandem Power Brake Unit
Fig. 7 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Tandem Diaphragm Power Piston Assembly
DESCRIPTION
These units, Figs. 6 and 7, have a vacuum power chamber that consists of a front and rear shell, a
housing divider, front and rear diaphragm and plate assemblies, an hydraulic pushrod and a
diaphragm return spring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Description and Operation > General Description > Page 9001
OPERATION
As the brakes are applied by the driver, the valve operating rod and control piston move forward in
the power piston assembly to compress the valve return spring and bring the poppet valve into
contact with the vacuum valve seat in the valve housing to close the vacuum post. Any additional
movement of the valve operating rod in the applied direction moves the control valve away from the
poppet valve to open the atmospheric port and admit air through the air filter and passages to the
chamber at the right of the vacuum power piston assembly. With vacuum on the left side of the
diaphragm and atmospheric pressure on the right side of the diaphragm, a force is developed to
move the vacuum power piston assembly, hydraulic pushrod, and hydraulic piston to the left to
close the compensating port and force hydraulic fluid under pressure through the residual check
valve and brake tubes into the brake wheel cylinders.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brakes Grab
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Brakes Grab
1. Faulty control valve.
2. Broken or damaged hydraulic brake lines.
3. Faulty master cylinder seals.
4. Cracked master cylinder casting.
5. Air in hydraulic system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brakes Grab > Page 9004
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Hard Pedal
1. Internal vacuum leak.
2. Faulty control valve.
3. Broken or damaged hydraulic brake lines.
4. Collapsed or damaged vacuum hose.
5. Plugged or loose vacuum fitting.
6. Bad stud welds on front or rear housing on power head.
7. Faulty booster diaphragm.
8. Restricted air filter element.
9. Worn or distorted reaction plate or levers.
10. Cracked or broken power pistons or retainers.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Testing and Inspection > Brakes Grab > Page 9005
Vacuum Brake Booster: Testing and Inspection Slow or No Release
1. Faulty pushrod adjustment.
2. Binding linkage.
3. Blocked passage in power piston.
4. Air valve sticking shut.
5. Broken piston return spring or air valve spring.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair General Service Information
Certain general service procedures apply, regardless of whether the brakes are vacuum or
hydraulically assisted. Only top quality, clean brake fluid should be used. More seals and valves
are used with power brake systems than with ordinary brakes, so an inferior brake fluid will do
much more damage. For the same reason, be sure all dirt is kept out of the system. Additionally, on
models with hydraulic assist brakes, care must be taken not to mix the fluids of the booster
hydraulic system and brake hydraulic system as the fluids are not compatible.
If the power unit fails, the brakes will still operate, as the conventional brake system is left intact
and a power unit is simply added to the existing system. Troubleshooting is then exactly the same
up to the power unit. As with conventional hydraulic brakes, a spongy pedal with power brakes is
caused by air in the system and grease on the linings will cause the brakes to grab. However,
power brakes develop higher line pressure, thus making leaks more critical.
Power units do not require adjustment. If there is a problem, the various valves and connections
are simply replaced. The only exception is that the power units themselves sometimes have an
adjustable connection to the brake pedal or linkage.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 9008
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Booster Assembly
Single Diaphragm Type
Fig. 3 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Single Diaphragm Brake Booster Components
Fig. 4 Brake Booster Holding Fixture
DISASSEMBLY 1.
Remove boot, silencer, vacuum check valve, grommet and front housing seal, Fig. 3.
2. Scribe a line across front and rear housing, then mount brake booster to brake mounting fixture
tool No. J 23456 or equivalent, Fig. 4.
3. Turn fixture handle counterclockwise to unlock housings.
4. Remove return spring, power piston assembly and power piston bearing from rear housing, Fig.
3.
5. Remove reaction body retainer, piston rod, reaction retainer and filter, Fig. 3.
6. Remove power piston and pushrod assembly as follows: a.
While holding the pushrod down against a hard surface, grasp outside edge of diaphragm support
and diaphragm, Fig. 3.
b. Use a slight force to dislodge diaphragm retainer, Fig. 3.
7. Remove diaphragm from diaphragm support, Fig. 3.
8. Inspect all parts for corrosion, nicks, cracks, cuts, scoring, distortion or excessive wear. Replace
as necessary.
9. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol. Dry with clean compressed air.
Do not immerse power piston and pushrod assembly in alcohol.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 9009
Fig. 5 Brake Booster Lock Tab & Staking Positions
ASSEMBLY 1.
Lubricate inside diameter of diaphragm lip with a thin layer of silicone grease, then install
diaphragm into the diaphragm support, Fig. 3.
2. Install diaphragm and diaphragm support onto power piston and pushrod assembly.
3. Install new diaphragm retainer.
Ensure retainer is fully seated.
4. Install filter, reaction retainer, piston rod and reaction body retainer.
5. Apply silicone grease to the power piston bearing and install it into the rear housing, then install
return spring.
6. Mount housings to holding fixture and turn fixture handle in a clockwise direction to lock the front
and rear housings.
7. Stake housing in locations shown, Fig. 5.
Do not stake a tab that has been staked previously.
8. Lubricate inside and outside edges of grommet and front housing seal, then install grommet and
seal.
9. Install vacuum check valve, silencer and boot.
10. Ensure piston rod depth is within specifications using gauge tool No. J-37839 or equivalent.
Tandem Diaphragm Type
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 9010
Fig. 8 Exploded View Of Delco-Moraine Tandem Diaphragm Brake Booster Components
Brake Booster Holding Fixture
DISASSEMBLE
1. Remove boot, silencer, vacuum check valve, grommet and front housing seal, Fig. 8. 2. Scribe a
line across front and rear housing, then install brake booster to brake mounting fixture tool No.
J-23456 or equivalent, Fig. 6. 3. Turn fixture handle to unlock housings. 4. Remove return spring,
power piston assembly and power piston bearing from rear housing, Fig. 8. 5. Remove piston rod,
reaction retainer and power head silencer. 6. Remove power piston and pushrod assembly as
follows:
a. While holding the pushrod down against a hard surface, grasp outside edge of diaphragm
support and diaphragm. b. Use a slight force to dislodge diaphragm retainer.
7. Remove primary diaphragm and primary support plate from housing divider. 8. Remove primary
diaphragm from primary support plate. 9. Remove secondary diaphragm and secondary support
plate from housing divider.
10. Remove secondary piston bearing from housing divider. 11. Remove secondary diaphragm
from secondary support plate. 12. Remove reaction body retainer, reaction body, reaction disc and
reaction piston from reaction body. 13. Remove air valve spring and reaction bumper from end of
air valve pushrod. 14. Remove retaining ring from air valve pushrod assembly. 15. Remove air
valve pushrod assembly by inserting a screwdriver through the pushrod eyelet and pulling pushrod
assembly straight out. 16. Remove filter, retainer and O-ring from air valve pushrod assembly.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 9011
17. Inspect all parts for corrosion, nicks, cracks, cuts, scoring, distortion or excessive wear.
Replace as necessary. 18. Clean all parts in denatured alcohol and dry with clean compressed air.
Do not immerse power piston and pushrod assembly in alcohol.
Brake Booster Lock Tab & Staking Positions
ASSEMBLE
1. Install lubricated O-ring onto air valve pushrod assembly. 2. Install air valve pushrod into the
power piston. 3. Install retainer and seat. 4. Install filter over pushrod eyelet and into power piston.
5. Install retaining ring onto air valve pushrod assembly. 6. Install reaction bumper, air valve spring,
reaction piston and reaction disc onto reaction body. 7. Install reaction body, then reaction body
retainer. 8. Lubricate inside diameter of secondary diaphragm lip, inside diameter of primary
diaphragm lip and the secondary piston bearing with a thin layer
of silicone grease.
9. Install secondary diaphragm into the secondary support plate, Fig. 8.
10. Install secondary diaphragm and secondary support plate over the power piston and pushrod
assembly. 11. Install secondary piston bearing into housing divider with flat surface of bearing on
the same side as the six raised lugs on the divider. 12. Install secondary piston bearing and
housing divider over power piston assembly and pushrod. 13. Install primary diaphragm into the
primary support plate, Fig. 8. 14. Fold primary diaphragm up away from the primary support plate,
then install primary diaphragm and support plate over power piston and pushrod
assembly.
15. Fold primary diaphragm back into position and pull the outside edge of diaphragm over formed
flange of housing divider. 16. Install new diaphragm retainer.
Ensure retainer is fully seated.
17. Install silencer, reaction retainer and piston rod. 18. Lubricate inside and outside diameters of
primary piston bearings with silicone grease. 19. Install primary piston bearing into rear housing.
20. Install power piston assembly into rear housing, then the return spring. 21. Mount housing to
holding fixture and turn fixture handle to lock the front and rear housings, Fig. 6. 22. Stake housing
in locations shown, Fig. 7.
Do not stake a tab that has been staked previously.
23. Lubricate inside and outside edges of grommet and front housing seal, then install grommet
and seal. 24. Install vacuum check valve, silencer and boot. 25. Ensure piston rod depth is within
specifications using gauge tool No. J-37839 or equivalent.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Power Brake Assist > Vacuum Brake Booster > Component
Information > Service and Repair > General Service Information > Page 9012
Vacuum Brake Booster: Service and Repair Power Brake Unit
1. Remove vacuum hose from check valve and master cylinder retaining nuts.
2. Pull master cylinder forward so it clears mounting studs and move to one side. Support cylinder
to avoid stress on hydraulic lines.
3. Remove power unit to dash nuts.
4. Remove brake pedal pushrod retainer and disconnect pushrod from pin.
5. Remove power brake unit from vehicle.
6. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control > ABS
Main Relay > Component Information > Locations
ABS Main Relay: Locations
The relay is located inside the Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) and cannot be serviced.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations
Electronic Brake Control Module: Locations
The Electronic Brake Control Unit (EBCM) is mounted to the top of the Brake Pressure Modulator
Valve (BPMV) and is housed in aluminum with a black plastic top.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Relays and Modules - Brakes and Traction Control >
Electronic Brake Control Module > Component Information > Locations > Page 9020
Electronic Brake Control Module: Service and Repair
Fig. 226 EBCM Replacement.
1. Disconnect battery ground cable, then raise and support vehicle.
2. Remove bolts securing shield (if equipped) and BPMV to EHCU mounting bracket, Fig. 226, then
disconnect (EBCM) Electronic Brake Control
Module electrical connectors.
3. Remove Torx bolts securing EBCM to BPMV, then separate EBCM from BPMV.
Do not pry on components to separate.
4. Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
a. Install a new EBCM gasket and mounting bolts. Do not use any gasket sealant. b. Torque EBCM
to BPMV bolts to 39 inch lbs. in a crisscross pattern.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control > Brake
Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Locations
Brake Fluid Pressure Sensor/Switch: Locations
Behind I/P Compartment Box on HVAC Plenum
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Braking Sensor/Switch > Component Information > Service and Repair
Braking Sensor/Switch: Service and Repair
Stop Lamp Switch
Remove or Disconnect
1. Negative battery cable. 2. Disable SIR. 3. Retainer from brake pedal pin. Use snap ring pliers. 4.
Switch by unsnapping from pushrod. 5. Electrical connector from switch.
Install or Connect
1. Electrical connector into switch. 2. Switch by snapping it onto pushrod. 3. Retainer onto brake
pedal pin. Use 11mm (7/16 inch) socket to push new clip on pin. 4. Negative battery cable. 5.
Enable SIR.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 02-05-25-006B > Jan
> 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: Customer Interest Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 02-05-25-006B > Jan
> 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 9036
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation
Wheel Speed Sensor: All Technical Service Bulletins Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS
Activation
Bulletin No.: 02-05-25-006B
Date: January 05, 2006
TECHNICAL
Subject: Antilock Brake (ABS) Activation At Low Speeds (Clean Wheel Speed Sensor Mounting
Surface)
Models: 1999-2000 Cadillac Escalade 1995-1999 Chevrolet Silverado (Old Style) 1995-2000
Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe (Old Style) 1995-2003 Chevrolet Astro Van, Blazer, S10 1995-1999
GMC Sierra (Old Style) 1995-2000 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL (Old Style) 1995-2001 GMC Envoy,
Jimmy 1995-2003 GMC Safari Van, Sonoma 1995-2001 Oldsmobile Bravada
Supercede:
This bulletin is being revised to update the correction and warranty information. Please discard
Corporate Bulletin Number 02-05-25-006A (Section 05 - Brakes).
Condition
Some customers may comment on ABS activation at low speeds, usually below 8 km/h (5 mph).
Upon investigation, the technician will find no DTCs set.
Cause
The cause of this condition may be an increased air gap between the wheel speed sensor and the
hub reluctor ring due to rust and debris built up on the sensor mounting surface.
Correction
Measure AC voltage and clean wheel speed sensor mounting surfaces.
1. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
2. Disconnect both the front wheel speed sensor harness connectors.
3. Place a DVM across the terminals of each sensor connector.
4. Rotate the wheel with hand speed and measure the ACmV's. The reading should be at least 350
ACmV's.
5. If the reading is between 200 and 350 ACmV's, remove the wheel, caliper and rotor in order to
gain access to the speed sensor.
6. Remove the wheel speed sensor and plug the hole to prevent debris from falling into the hub
during service.
7. Clean the wheel speed sensor mounting surface using a wire brush, sand paper, emery cloth,
ScotchBrite(TM) or other suitable material. Be sure to thoroughly clean the wheel speed sensor
surface. There should be no rust or corrosion.
8. Check the sensor head to determine if it has been warped/distorted due to the corrosion build up
or other causes. Check the mounting surface on the sensor head for flatness by placing it on the
edge of a metal machinists scale or other suitable straight edge to measure the flatness. Check the
sensor for flatness in multiple (minimum 3) positions/directions. If the sensor head is distorted,
replace the sensor.
9. Apply (spray) two thin coats of the specified rust penetrating lubricant (corrosion inhibitor) to the
complete sensor mounting surface on the bearing hub. Allow to dry for 3-5 minutes between coats.
Use ONLY Rust Penetrating Lubricant, P/N 89022217 (Canadian P/N 89022218).
10. When the corrosion inhibitor is dry to the touch (about 10 minutes), apply a thin layer of bearing
grease to the hub surface and sensor 0-ring prior to sensor installation. Use ONLY Wheel Bearing
Lubricant, P/N 01051344 (Canadian P/N 993037).
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins: >
02-05-25-006B > Jan > 06 > Brakes - Low Speed (Below 5 MPH) ABS Activation > Page 9042
11. Install either the original sensor or a new one in the hub and secure the sensor. Ensure that the
sensor is seated flush against the hub.
12. Install the rotor, the caliper and the wheel.
13. Place the DVM across the sensor terminals and recheck the voltage while rotating the wheel by
hand. The voltage should now read at least 350 ACmV's.
Parts Information
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty
When Not
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-03A
Date: June, 1998
Subject: Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty with 7-8 Gallons (30 Liters) Left in Tank (Replace Fuel Level
Sensor Float Arm Assembly)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Models Built Prior to VIN Breakpoints:
Models VIN Breakpoints
Chevrolet VJ355982
GMC VJ724930
This bulletin is being revised to change the labor operation number. Please discard Corporate
Bulletin Number 76-83-03 (Section 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical).
Condition
Some owners may comment that the fuel gauge indicates empty after only going 200 to 250 miles,
and they are only able to put approximately 23 gallons or less of fuel in the 30 gallon tank.
Cause
The Fuel Level Indication System was designed with excessive empty reserve. The Fuel Level
Sender will be labeled with Broadcast code "TCB", (see Figure 1). Vehicles built after December
14, 1996, have the revised Float Arm Assembly.
Correction
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 9048
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-05 > Sep > 97 > Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation
Fuel Gauge Sender: All Technical Service Bulletins Instruments - Excessive Fuel Gauge
Fluctuation
File In Section: 8 - Chassis/Body Electrical
Bulletin No.: 76-83-05
Date: September, 1997
Subject: Excessive Fuel Gauge Fluctuation (Install Fuel Level Damper Kit)
Models: 1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K 4 Door Utility Models Condition
Some owners may comment about excessive fuel gauge needle fluctuation when making turns or
braking with less than a half tank of fuel.
Correction
Install fuel level damper module kit P/N 12167652 following the procedure described on the
instruction sheets included with the kit.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
12167652 Module Kit, Fuel Level Damper 1
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Op Description Labor Time
N4844 Module, Anti-slosh - Install 0.8 hr
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Wheel Speed
Sensor: > 76-83-03A > Jun > 98 > Instruments - Fuel Gauge Indicates Empty When Not > Page 9058
Following the procedure described in Section 8A of the Service Manual, remove the Sender
Assembly and replace the original Float and Arm with P/N 25312833 (see Figure 2). Reinstall the
Sender Assembly and Tank.
Parts Information
P/N Description Qty
25312833 Float Kit, Fuel Level Sensor 1
The part is currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation Description Labor Time
L1225 Sender Use published
Assembly, Fuel Labor Operation
(Tank Unit) - Time
Replace
Important:
Labor operation is coded to base vehicle coverage in the warranty system.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9063
Wheel Speed Sensor: Specifications
2WD Sensor Resistance 1575 to 2420 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
1980 to 2800 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2250 to 3280 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
2750 to 3850 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
4WD Sensor Resistance 1900 to 2950 ohms at -40 to 40 deg F
2420 to 3450 ohms at 41 to 110 deg F
2610 to 4100 ohms at 111 to 200 deg F
3320 to 4760 ohms at 201 to 302 deg F
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations LH
front At LH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Locations > LH > Page 9066
Wheel Speed Sensor: Locations RH
front At RH front Wheel
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Front Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly. 2. Disconnect brake caliper
assembly and position aside. 3. Remove hub and rotor assembly. 4. Disconnect wheel sensor
electrical connector. 5. Remove sensor wire form upper control arm clip. 6. Remove sensor and
splash shield assembly attaching bolts, then remove sensor. 7. Reverse procedure to install.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Brakes and Traction Control > Sensors and Switches - Brakes and Traction Control >
Wheel Speed Sensor > Component Information > Service and Repair > Front Wheel Speed Sensor > Page 9069
Wheel Speed Sensor: Service and Repair Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
Fig. 58 Rear Wheel Speed Sensor
1. Raise and support vehicle, then remove wheel and tire assembly.
2. Remove brake drum.
3. Remove primary brake shoe.
4. Disconnect sensor electrical connector.
5. Remove sensor wire from rear axle clip.
6. Remove speed sensor attaching bolts, Fig. 58, then remove sensor by pulling wire through hole
in backing plate.
7. Reverse procedure to install. Torque speed sensor attaching bolts to 26 ft. lbs.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch
Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch
Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9081
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch
Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9082
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch
Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9083
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9089
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9090
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9091
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Ignition Switch >
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9092
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
The procedure has been updated by TSB# 73-01-09
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: Customer Interest Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove > Page 9101
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
01-07-30-021 > May > 01 > Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to
Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
01-07-30-021 > May > 01 > Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove > Page 9107
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
83-71-10 > May > 98 > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Sensors and Switches - Starting and Charging > Neutral Safety
Switch > Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Other Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: >
83-71-10 > May > 98 > A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
insure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
P/N Description
12450016 Switch
15305925 4-Way Connector Assembly
15305887 7-Way Connector Assembly
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
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Switch > Component Information > Locations > With 4L60-E Transmission
Electronic 4-speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Switch > Component Information > Locations > With 4L60-E Transmission > Page 9119
Electronic 4-Speed Automatic Overdrive Transmission
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Neutral Safety Switch: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9122
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9123
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9124
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9126
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Neutral Safety Switch: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9138
Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9141
Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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Switch > Component Information > Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9151
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
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Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Relays and Modules - Starting and Charging > Starter Relay >
Component Information > Locations
Starter Relay: Locations
In Underhood Fuse - Relay Center
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Diagram Information and Instructions
Battery Cable: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Battery Cable: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
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Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
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Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
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If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9193
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Battery > Battery Cable > Component Information > Diagrams >
Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9194
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
Alternator: Technical Service Bulletins Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
File In Section: 6 - Engine
Bulletin No.: 83-64-09
Date: March, 1998
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tool J 41450-B, Released for CS Generator Diagnosis
Models: 1988-98 Passenger Cars and Light Trucks with CS-Series Generators
A new CS-Series Generator Tester, J 41450-B, has been sent to all dealers as part of the Essential
Tool Package. This tool will work on all CS-Series generators for past model years. The tool is
shown in Figure 1.
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Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 9200
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 9201
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 9202
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Technical Service Bulletins > Tools - Released for CS Generator Diagnosis > Page 9203
Generator Not Operating Properly
The charts shown can be used in place of the diagnostic procedures in previous Service Manuals
when this new tool is used. This information will be included in the 1999 Service Manual.
Inspect the following before testing the generator:
^ The battery. Make sure the vehicle battery is in good condition and fully charged. Refer to Battery
Load Test.
^ The built in hydrometer in the battery. The green eye must be showing in the hydrometer.
^ The voltage across the battery terminals with all the loads OFF should be above 12 V. Refer to
Battery Load Test.
^ Make sure the battery connections are clean and tight.
^ The drive belt for damage or looseness.
^ The wiring harness at the generator. Make sure the harness connector is tight and latched. Make
sure the output terminal of the generator is connected to the vehicle battery (positive) generator
lead.
^ All the charging system related fuses and electrical connections for damage or looseness. Refer
to the starter and charging system schematics.
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Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9204
Alternator: Specifications
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480022
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 124
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480023
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 145
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10479959
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 124
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480094
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 100
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480084
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 105
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480086
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 100
Model ...................................................................................................................................................
.................................................................. 10480099
Rated Hot Output, Amps .....................................................................................................................
............................................................................. 105
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations
Battery Wiring (Typical)
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Locations > Component Locations > Page 9207
Engine Side, RH
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions
Alternator: Diagram Information and Instructions
Abbreviation
A/C Air Conditioning
CCM Central Control Module
CKT Circuit
CONN
Connector
EBCM Electronic Brake Control Module
EBTCM Electronic Brake and Traction Control Module
ECM Engine Control Module
HARN Harness
I/P Instrument Panel
LH Left Hand
PCM Powertrain Control Module
RH Right Hand
TERM Terminal
Cell References
CELL REFERENCES
General Motors vehicles often use "CELL" references in their electrical wiring diagrams. These
references are used in the Original Equipment Manual to refer to a section in the manual and not a
specific diagram(s).
GM Sample Diagram W/ Cell Reference
For instance, in the diagram illustrated "Cell 20" is not a reference to another diagram but a
reference to "Section 20" in the OE manual. In the example, "Section 20" is the engine control
section of the manual.
To navigate through these "Cell" references start at the vehicle level and go to: Diagrams /
Electrical Diagrams - for a complete list of the diagrams available for the vehicle. Choose the
system you are working on and view those diagrams.
Note: If unsure of the system - try utilizing the search feature. Type a component in the search
feature that belongs to the system and when the results are displayed note the path displayed. This
will show the system the component belongs in.
Electrostatic Discharge (ESD Sensitive Devices)
All Electrostatic Discharge (ESD) sensitive components are Solid State and the following
information applies to them.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9210
ESD Symbol
Typical Schematic
The ESD symbol is used on schematics to indicate which components are ESD sensitive. When
handling any electronic part, the service technician should follow the guidelines below to reduce
any possible electrostatic charge build-up on the service technician's body and inadvertent
discharge to the electronic part. If it is not known whether or not a component is ESD sensitive,
assume it is susceptible.
Handling Procedures 1. Always touch a known good ground before handling the part. This should
be repeated while handling the pan and more frequently after sliding
across a seat, sitting down from a standing position or walking a distance.
2. Avoid touching electrical terminals of the part, unless so instructed by a written diagnostic
procedure. 3. When using a voltmeter, be sure to connect the ground lead first. 4. Do not remove a
part from its protective package until it is time to install the part. 5. Before removing the part from its
package, ground the package to a known good ground on the vehicle.
Measuring Procedures The circuits shown within the boxes are greatly simplified. Do not
troubleshoot by measuring resistance at any terminal of these devices unless so instructed by a
written diagnostic procedure. Due to the simplification of the schematics, resistance measurements
could be misleading, or could lead to electrostatic discharge.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
The OBDII symbol is used on circuit diagrams to alert the technician that the circuit is essential for
proper OBDII emission control circuit operation. Any circuit which, if it fails, causes the SERVICE
ENGINE SOON indicator to turn on, is identified as an OBDII circuit.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9211
Schematic Symbols
Fig.1-Symbols (Part 1 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9212
Fig.2-Symbols (Part 2 Of 3)
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9213
Fig.3-Symbols (Part 3 Of 3)
Vacuum Motors operate like electrical solenoids, mechanically pushing or pulling a shaft between
two fixed positions. When vacuum is applied, the shaft is pulled in. When no vacuum is applied, the
shaft is pushed all the way out by a spring.
Double Diaphragm Motors can be operated by vacuum in two directions. When there is no vacuum,
the motor is in the center "at rest" position.
Some Vacuum Motors such as the Servo Motor in the Cruise Control can position the actuating
arm at any position between fully extended and fully retracted. The servo is operated by a control
valve that applies varying amounts of vacuum to the motor. The higher the vacuum level, the
greater the retraction of the motor arm. Servo Motors work like the two position motors; the only
difference is in the way the vacuum is applied. Servo Motors are generally larger and provide a
calibrated control.
Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) System
SIR Symbol
The Supplemental Inflatable Restraint (SIR) symbol is used on schematics to alert the technician to
the following important caution.
CAUTION: This vehicle is equipped with SIR. Refer to CAUTIONS in SIR under Air Bags and Seat
Belts before performing service on or around SIR components or wiring. Failure to follow
CAUTIONS could result in possible air bag deployment, personal injury, or otherwise unneeded
SIR system repairs.
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9214
Wire Color Code Identification
Black: BLK
Blue: BLU
Brown: BRN
Grey: GR Or GRY
Green: GRN
Natural: NAT
Orange: ORN
Pink: PNK
Purple: PPL
Red: RED
Tan: TAN
White: WHT
Yellow: YEL
Dark: DK (example: DK GRN same as Dark Green)
Light: LT (example: LT BLU same as Light Blue)
Wire Size Conversion Table
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9215
Alternator: Diagnostic Aids
Additional Information
NOTE: Turn OFF power to the test circuit before attempting in-circuit resistance measurements to
prevent false readings or damage to the meter. Do not use the meter to measure resistance
through a solid state module.
Continuity tests that work well for detecting intermittent shorts to ground can be performed by
setting the meter to "ohms" then pressing the "PEAK MIN MAX" button. An audible tone will be
heard whenever the meter detects continuity for at least 1 millisecond.
The J 39200 Instruction Manual is a good source of information and should be read thoroughly
upon receipt of the meter as well as kept on hand for reference during new procedures.
Basic Knowledge Required
Without a basic knowledge of electricity, it will be difficult to use the diagnostic procedures. You
should understand the basic theory of electricity and know the meaning of voltage, current (amps)
and resistance (ohms). You should understand what happens in a circuit with an open or a shorted
wire. You should be able to read and understand a wiring diagram. The following four-step
troubleshooting procedure is recommended:
Step 1: Check the Problem Perform a System Check to determine a symptom. Don't waste time
fixing part of the problem! Do not begin disassembly or testing until you have narrowed down the
possible causes.
Step 2: Read the Electrical Schematic Study the schematic. Read the Circuit Operation text if you
do not understand how the circuit should work. Check circuits that share wiring with the problem
circuit. (Shared circuits are shown on Power Distribution, Ground Distribution, Fuse Block Details
and Light Switch Details.) Try to operate the shared circuits. If the shared circuits work, then the
shared wiring is OK. The cause must be within the wiring used only by the problem circuit. If
several circuits fail at the same time, chances are the power (fuse) or ground circuit is faulty.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair ^
Narrow down the possible causes.
^ Use the Troubleshooting Hints.
^ Make the necessary measurements or checks as given in the System Diagnosis.
^ Before replacing a component, check power, signal and ground wires at the component harness
connector. If the checks and connections are OK, the most probable cause is component failure.
Step 4: Test the Repair Repeat the System Check to verify that the fault has been corrected and
that no other faults were induced during the repair.
EXAMPLE: A customer brings in a vehicle and says that the HI beams do not work.
Step 1: Perform a System Check on the Headlight Circuit You may discover that both LO beams
operate. In HI, you may notice that the HI Beam Indicator comes ON, but neither HI beam
operates.
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Typical Headlights Schematic
Step 2: Read the Headlights Electrical Schematic This is the step that will save time and labor.
Remember, it is essential to understand how a circuit should work, before trying to figure out why it
doesn't.
After you understand how the circuit should operate, read the schematic again, this time keeping in
mind what you have learned by operating the circuit.
Since both LO beams work, you know that the Headlight Switch, the YEL wire, the LO contacts of
the Headlight Dimmer Switch, terminal "1E" of C100, the TAN wires and grounds G1O5 and G109
are all good.
Furthermore, since you saw that the HI Beam Indicator came ON when the Headlight Dimmer
Switch was moved to HI you know that the HI contacts of the Headlight Dimmer Switch and the LT
GRN wire between the Headlight Dimmer Switch and C100 are good.
At this point, you could test for voltage at the RH Headlamp with the Headlight Dimmer Switch in
HI. However, it is extremely unlikely that the HI beam filaments have burned out in both
headlamps, or that both headlamps connections are bad. The cause must be a bad connection at
C100, or a break in the LT GRN wire between C100 and the RH Headlamp.
You have quickly narrowed the possible causes down to one specific area, and have done
absolutely no work on the vehicle itself.
Step 3: Find the fault and repair it Using the Component Location List and the corresponding figure,
you can quickly find C100 and the LT GRN wire, locate the exact trouble point and make the repair.
Step 4: Check the repair by performing a System Check on the Headlights Circuit This, of course,
means making sure that both HI beams, both LO beams and the HI Beam Indicator are all working.
Now suppose that the symptoms were different. You may have operated the Headlamps and found
that the LO beams were working, but neither the HI beams nor the HI Beam Indicator were
working. Looking at the schematic, you might conclude that it is unlikely that both HI beam
filaments and the HI Beam Indicator have all burned out at once. The cause is probably the
Headlight Dimmer Switch or its connector.
Checking Terminal Contacts
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DESCRIPTION
When diagnosing an electrical system that utilizes Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 series terminals
(refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4 for terminal identification), it is important to
check terminal contact between a connector and component, or between in-line connectors, before
replacing a suspect component.
Frequently, a diagnostic chart leads to a step that reads: Check for poor connection. Mating
terminals must be inspected to assure good terminal contact. A poor connection between the male
and female terminal at a connector may be the result of contamination or deformation.
Contamination is caused by the connector halves being improperly connected, a missing or
damaged connector seal, or damage to the connector itself, exposing the terminals to moisture and
dirt. Contamination, usually in underhood or underbody connectors, leads to terminal corrosion,
causing an open circuit or intermittently open circuit.
Deformation Of A Typical Metri-Pack 150/280/480/630 Series Female Terminal
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Deformation is caused by probing the mating side of a connector terminal without the proper
adapter, improperly joining the connector halves or repeatedly separating and joining the connector
halves. Deformation, usually to the female terminal contact tang, can result in poor terminal
contact, causing an open or intermittently open circuit.
PROCEDURE
Follow the procedure below to check terminal contact. 1. Separate the connector halves. Refer to
Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, J 38125-4. 2. Inspect the connector halves for contamination.
Contamination will result in a white or green build-up within the connector body or between
terminals, causing HI terminal resistance, intermittent contact or an open circuit. An underhood or
underbody connector that shows signs of contamination should be replaced in its entirety:
terminals, seals and connector body.
3. Using an equivalent male terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, check the retention
force of the female terminal in question by
inserting and removing the male terminal to the female terminal in the connector body. Good
terminal contact will require a certain amount of force to separate the terminals.
4. Using an equivalent female terminal from the Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A, compare the
retention force of this terminal to the female
terminal in question by joining and separating the male terminal to the good female terminal, and
then joining and separating the male terminal to the female terminal in question. If the retention
force is significantly different between the two female terminals, replace the female terminal in
question (refer to Terminal Repair Kit, J 38125-A).
If a visual (physical) check does not reveal the cause of the problem, the vehicle may be able to be
driven with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) connected to the suspected circuit. An abnormal voltage
reading when the problem occurs indicates the problem may be in that circuit.
Detecting Electrical Intermittents
PROCEDURE
Use the following procedure to detect intermittent terminal contact or a broken wire with an
intermittent connection inside the insulation.
The J 39200 Digital Multimeter has the ability to monitor current, resistance, or voltage while
recording the minimum (MIN) and maximum (MAX) values measured. The meter can also be set to
display the average (AVG) value measured.
When diagnosing circuits that have voltage applied, use the voltage setting to monitor a connector
(or length of a circuit) which is suspected of having an intermittent connection but is currently
operating normally. 1. Connect the J 39200 Digital Multimeter to both sides of a suspect connector
(still connected) or from one end of a suspect circuit to the other.
This will continuously monitor the terminal contacts or length of wire being checked. Refer Meter
Connections for examples of the various methods for connecting the meter to the circuit. See:
General Troubleshooting Procedures/Meter Connections
2. Set the meter for voltage. Since the "MIN MAX" mode does not use auto ranging, manually
select the voltage range necessary before
proceeding.
3. Press the "MIN MAX" button. The meter should read "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond
record) and emit a 1/4 second beep. The meter is
now ready to record and will generate an audible tone for any change in voltage. At this point, you
may wish to press the "PEAK MIN MAX" button, which will record any voltage variations that occur
for at least 1 millisecond.
4. Try to simulate the condition that is potentially causing an intermittent connection, either by
wiggling connections or wiring, test driving or
performing other operations. If an open or resistance is created, a voltage will be present and the
meter will emit a tone for as long as the open or resistance exists. Any change in voltage will cause
the meter to emit a tone for no less than 1/4 second. (Listening for a tone while manipulating wiring
is very helpful for narrowing down an intermittent connection.)
Use the MIN and MAX values when the meter is out of sight or sound range, in noisy areas or for
test driving when it may not be possible to monitor the meter.
To check the MIN and MAX recorded voltages press "MIN MAX" once for MAX and twice for MIN.
A variation between MIN and MAX recorded voltages (unless nearly 0 volts) suggests an
intermittent open or that resistance exists and should be repaired as necessary.
IMPORTANT: The "100 ms RECORD" (100 millisecond record) mode is NOT the amount of time
allowed to perform a specific procedure. It is the amount of time used to record each snapshot of
information used for calculating "AVG" when in the "MIN MAX" mode.
Intermittents and Poor Connections
Most intermittents are caused by faulty electrical connections or wiring, although occasionally a
sticking relay or solenoid can be a problem. Some items to check are:
^ Poor mating of connector halves, or terminals not fully seated in the connector body (backed out).
^ Dirt or corrosion on the terminals. The terminals must be clean and free of any foreign material
which could impede proper terminal contact.
^ Damaged connector body, exposing the terminals to moisture and dirt, as well as not maintaining
proper terminal orientation with the component or mating connector.
^ Improperly formed or damaged terminals. All connector terminals in problem circuits should be
checked carefully to ensure good contact tension. Use a corresponding mating terminal to check
for proper tension. Refer to Checking Terminal Contact for the specific procedure.
^ The J 35616-A Connector Test Adapter Kit must be used whenever a diagnostic procedure
requests checking or probing a terminal. Using the adapter will ensure that no damage to the
terminal will occur, as well as giving an idea of whether contact tension is sufficient. If contact
tension seems incorrect, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General Troubleshooting
Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
^ Poor terminal-to-wire connection. Some conditions which fall under this description are poor
crimps, poor solder joints, crimping over wire insulation rather than the wire itself, corrosion in the
wire-to-terminal contact area, etc.
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^ Wire insulation which is rubbed through, causing an intermittent short as the bare area touches
other wiring or parts of the vehicle.
^ Wiring broken inside the insulation. This condition could cause a continuity check to show a good
circuit, but if only 1 or 2 strands of a multi-strand type wire are intact, resistance could be far too HI.
To avoid any of the above problems when making wiring or terminal repairs, always follow the
instructions for wiring and terminal repair outlined under the Repair Procedures. See: Wire Repair
Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures
Meter Connections
The previous diagnostic procedure was written to detect intermittents using the meter set to
voltage. Whether using the current, voltage or resistance setting to detect intermittents, it is
necessary to connect the meter to the circuit.
Following are examples of the various methods of connecting the meter to the circuit to be
checked:
^ Backprobe both ends of the connector and either hold the leads in place while manipulating the
connector or tape the leads to the harness for continuous monitoring while performing other
operations or test driving. (Do not backprobe "Weather Pack(R)" type connectors.)
^ Disconnect the harness at both ends of the suspect circuit where it connects either to a
component or to other harnesses.
^ Use Connector Test Adapter Kit J 35616-A to connect the meter to the circuit.
^ If the system being diagnosed has a specified Pinout or breakout box, it may be used to simplify
connecting the meter to the circuit or for checking multiple circuits quickly.
Aftermarket Accessories
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into SIR circuits. All such circuits are indicated are indicated on
circuit diagrams with the SIR symbol.
SIR Symbol
Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits. all such circuits are indicated on circuit
diagrams with the OBDII symbol.
On Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) Symbol
Always check for aftermarket accessories (non-OEM) as the first step in diagnosing electrical
problems. If the vehicle is so equipped, disconnect the system to verify that these add-on
accessories are not the cause of the problem.
Some possible causes of vehicle problems related to aftermarket accessories include:
1. Power feeds connected to points other than the Battery. 2. Antenna location. 3. Transceiver
wiring located too close to vehicle electronic modules or wiring. 4. Poor shielding or poor
connectors on antenna feed line.
Probing (Frontprobe & Backprobe)
After probing, when reconnecting connectors or replacing terminals, always be sure to reinstall
Connector Position Assurance (CPA) and Terminal Position Assurance (TPA).
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Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9220
Frontprobe When frontprobing of connectors is required, always use a mating terminal adapter
from Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A). The use of proper adapters will ensure that proper
terminal contact integrity is maintained. (refer to Procedures in Checking Terminal Contact).
Backprobe Only backprobe connector terminals when specifically called for in diagnostic
procedures. Since backprobing can be a source of damage to connector terminals, extra care must
be taken to avoid deforming the terminal, either by forcing the test probe too far into the cavity or by
using too large a test probe.
After backprobing any connector, always check for terminal damage. If terminal damage is
suspected, check for proper terminal contact, refer to Checking Terminal Contact. See: General
Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Testing For Voltage
Voltage Check
1. Connect one lead of a test light to a known good ground. When using a Digital Voltmeter (DVM),
be sure the voltmeter's negative lead is
connected to ground.
2. Connect the other lead of the test light or voltmeter to a selected test point (connector or
terminal). 3. If the test light illuminates, there is voltage present. When using a DVM, note the
voltage reading.
Testing For Continuity
Continuity Check Through A Switch
1. Remove the fuse to the circuit involved. 2. Connect one lead of a self-powered test light or
ohmmeter to one end of the part of the circuit you wish to test. 3. Connect the other lead to the
other end of the circuit.
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4. If the self-powered test light glows, there is continuity. When using an ohmmeter, LO or no
resistance means good continuity.
Testing For Voltage Drop
Voltage Drop Test
This test checks for voltage being lost along a wire, or through a connection or switch.
1. Connect the positive lead of a Digital Voltmeter (DVM) to the end of the wire (or to one side of
the connection or switch) which is closer to the
Battery.
2. Connect the negative lead to the other end of the wire (or the other side of the connection or
switch). 3. Operate the circuit. 4. The DVM will show the difference in voltage between the two
points.
Testing For Short to Ground
Testing For Short With Self Powered Test Light Or Ohmmeter
WITH A TEST LIGHT OR DIGITAL VOLTMETER (DVM)
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the load. 2. Connect a test light or voltmeter across the
fuse terminals (be sure that the fuse is powered). 3. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the
harness from side to side. Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching
the
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test light or DVM.
4. When the test light glows, or the DVM registers, there is a short to ground in the wiring near that
point.
Testing For Short With Test Light Or DVM
WITH A SELF-POWERED TEST LIGHT OR OHMMETER.
1. Remove the blown fuse and disconnect the Battery and load. 2. Connect one lead of a
self-powered test light or ohmmeter to the fuse terminal on the load side. 3. Connect the other lead
to a known good ground. 4. Beginning near the Fuse Block, wiggle the harness from side to side.
Continue this at convenient points (about 6 inches apart) while watching the
self-powered test light or ohmmeter.
5. When the self-powered test light glows, or the ohmmeter registers, there is a short to ground in
the wiring near that point.
FUSES POWERING SEVERAL LOADS
1. Find the schematic under "Fuse Block Details," for the fuse that has blown. 2. Open the first
connector or switch leading from the fuse to each load. 3. Replace the fuse.
^ If the fuse blows, the short is in the wiring leading to the first connector or switch. Use a test light
or meter as described.
^ If fuse does not blow, refer to next step.
4. Close each connector or switch until the fuse blows in order to find which circuit has the short.
Connect test lamp or meter at the connector to the
suspect circuit (disconnected) rather than at the fuse terminals.
Test Light/Digital Voltmeter
Use a test light to check for voltage. A Test Light (J 34l42-B) is made up of a 12 volt light bulb with
a pair of leads attached. After grounding one lead, touch the other lead to various points along the
circuit where voltage should be present. When the bulb goes ON, there is voltage at the point being
tested.
A Digital Voltmeter (DVM) can be used instead of a test light. While a test light shows whether or
not voltage is present, a DVM indicates how much voltage is present.
An increasing number of circuits include solid state control modules. One example is the Engine
Control Module (ECM). Voltages in these circuits should be tested only with a 10-megohm or
higher impedance DVM or multimeter (J 39200). Unless directed to within the diagnostics, NEVER
use a test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage to these components
may result.
When testing for voltage or continuity at the connection, it is not necessary to separate the two
halves of the connector. Unless testing a Weather Pack(R) connector, always probe the connector
from the back. Always check both sides of the connector. An accumulation of dirt and corrosion
between contact surfaces is sometimes a cause of electrical problems. Refer to Procedures in
checking terminal contact. See: General Troubleshooting Procedures/Checking Terminal Contacts
Connector Test Adapters
Connector Test Adapter Kit (J 35616-A) is available for making tests and measurements at
separated connectors. This kit contains an assortment of probes which mate with many of the
types of terminals you will see. Avoid using paper clips and other substitutes since they can
damage terminals and cause incorrect measurements.
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Self-Powered Test Light
A self-powered test light (J 21008-A) can be used to check for continuity. This tool is made up of a
light bulb, Battery and two leads. If the leads are touched together, the bulb will go ON.
A self-powered test light is used only on an unpowered circuit. First remove the fuse which feeds
the circuit you're working on. Select two specific points along the circuit through which there should
be continuity. Connect one lead of the self-powered test light to each point. If there is continuity, the
test light circuit will be completed and the bulb will go ON.
NEVER use a self-powered test light on circuits that contain solid state components, since damage
to these components may result.
Ohmmeter
An ohmmeter can be used instead of a self-powered test light. The ohmmeter shows how much
resistance there is between two points along a circuit. LO resistance means good continuity.
Circuits which include any solid state control modules, such as the Engine Control Module (ECM),
should be tested only with a 10-megohm or higher impedance digital multimeter (J 39200).
When measuring resistance with a Digital Voltmeter (DVM), the vehicle Battery should be
disconnected. This will prevent incorrect readings. DVMs apply such a small voltage to measure
resistance that the presence of voltages can upset a resistance reading.
Diodes and solid state components in a circuit can cause an ohmmeter to give a false reading. To
find out if a component is affecting a measurement, take a reading once, reverse the leads and
take a second reading. If the readings differ, the solid state component is affecting the
measurement.
Fused Jumper Wire
A fused jumper (J 36169) is available with small clamp connectors providing adaptation to most
connectors without damage. This fused jumper wire is supplied with a 20 amp fuse which may not
be suitable for some circuits. Do not use a fuse with a higher rating than the fuse that protects the
circuit being tested.
NOTE: A fused jumper may not protect solid state components from being damaged.
Short Finder
Short Finders (J 8681-A) are available to locate hidden shorts to ground. The short finder creates a
pulsing magnetic field in the shorted circuit and shows you the location of the short through body
trim or sheet metal.
Fuse Tester
A simple tester (J 34764) can detect a blown fuse. To check a fuse, the tester is applied directly to
the fuse in the Fuse Block. Two probes contact the fuse, either into the slots of a flat fuse or to the
metal ends of a glass fuse. With power ON, a red Light Emitting Diode (LED) in the tester lights if
the fuse is open. The handle of the tester is a tool for removing either type of fuse.
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Special Tools
Circuit Breakers
A circuit breaker is a protective device designed to open the circuit when a current load is in excess
of rated breaker capacity. If there is a short or other type of overload condition in the circuit, the
excessive current will open the circuit between the circuit breaker terminals. There are two basic
types of circuit breakers used in GM vehicles: cycling and non-cycling.
Cycling Circuit Breaker The cycling breaker will open due to heat generated when excessive
current passes through it for a period of time. Once the circuit breaker cools, it will close again after
a few seconds. If the cause of the HI current is still present it will open again. It will continue to
cycle open and closed until the condition causing the HI current is removed.
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Non-Cycling Circuit Breaker There are two types of non-cycling circuit breakers. One type is
mechanical and is nearly the same as a cycling breaker. The difference is a small heater wire
within the non-cycling circuit breaker. This wire provides enough heat to keep the bimetallic
element open until the current source is removed.
The other type is solid state, called out as Electronic Circuit Breaker (ECB). This device has a
Positive Temperature Coefficient. It increases its resistance greatly when excessive current passes
through it. The excessive current heats the ECB. As it heats, its resistance increases, therefore
having a Positive Temperature Coefficient. Eventually the resistance gets so HI that the circuit is
effectively open. The ECB will not reset until the circuit is opened, removing voltage from its
terminals. Once voltage is removed, the circuit breaker will re-close within a second or two.
Fuses
Fuse Devices
The most common method of automotive wiring circuit protection is the fuse. A fuse is a device
that, by the melting of its element, opens an electrical circuit when the current exceeds a given
level for a sufficient time. The action is non-reversible and the fuse must be replaced each time a
circuit is overloaded or after a malfunction is repaired.
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Fuse Rating And Color
Fuses are color coded. The standardized color identification and ratings are shown. For service
replacement, non-color coded fuses of the same respective current rating can be used.
Examine a suspect fuse for a break in the element. If the element is broken or melted, replace the
fuse with one of equal current rating.
There are additional specific circuits with in-line fuses. These fuses are located within the individual
wiring harness and will appear to be an open circuit if blown.
Autofuse The Autofuse, normally referred to simply as "Fuse," is the most common circuit
protection device in today's vehicle. The Autofuse is most often used to protect the wiring assembly
between the Fuse Block and the system components.
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Maxifuse The Maxifuse was designed to replace the fusible link and Pacific Fuse elements. The
Maxifuse is designed to protect cables, normally between the battery and fuse block, from both
direct short circuits and resistive short circuits.
Compared to a fusible link or a Pacific Fuse element, the Maxifuse performs much more like an
Autofuse, although the average opening time is slightly longer. This is because the Maxifuse was
designed to be a slower blowing fuse, with less chance of nuisance blows.
Minifuse The Minifuse is a smaller version of the Autofuse and has a similar performance. As with
the Autofuse, the Minifuse is usually used to protect the wiring assembly between a fuse block and
system components. Since the Minifuse is a smaller device, it allows for more system specific
fusing to be accomplished within the same amount of space as Autofuses.
Pacific Fuse Element/Maxifuse The Pacific Fuse Element and Maxifuse were developed to be a
replacement for the fusible link. Like a fusible link, the fuses are designed to protect wiring from a
direct short to ground. These elements are easier to service and inspect than a fusible link and will
eventually replace fusible links in all future vehicle applications.
Fusible Links
Good And Damaged Fusible Links
In addition to circuit breakers and fuses, some circuits use fusible links to protect the wiring. Like
fuses, fusible links are "one-time" protection devices that will melt and create an open circuit.
Not all fusible link open Circuits can be detected by observation. Always inspect that there is
battery voltage past the fusible link to verify continuity.
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Wire Size Conversion Table
Fusible links are used instead of a fuse in wiring circuits that are not normally fused, such as the
ignition circuit. For AWG sizes, each fusible link is four wire gage sizes smaller than the wire it is
designed to protect. For example: to protect a 10 gage wire use a 14 gage link or for metric, to
protect a 5 mm Sq. wire use a 2 mm Sq. link, refer to Wire Size Conversion Table. Links are
marked on the insulation with wire-gage size because the heavy insulation makes the link appear
to be a heavier gage than it actually is. The same wire size fusible link must be used when
replacing a blown fusible link.
Fusible links are available with three types of insulation: Hypalon(R), Silicone/GXL (SIL/GXL) and
Expanded Duty. All future vehicles that use fusible links will utilize the Expanded Duty type of
fusible link. When servicing fusible links, all fusible links can be replaced with the Expanded Duty
type. SIL/GXI fusible links can be used to replace either SIL/GXI or Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Hypalon(R) fusible links can only be used to replace Hypalon(R) fusible links.
Determining characteristics of the types of fusible links are: Hypalon(R) (limited use): only available in 0.35 mm Sq. or smaller and its insulation is one color all
the way through.
- SIL/GXL (widely used): available in all sizes and has a white inner core under the outer color of
insulation.
- Expanded Duty: available in all sizes, has an insulation that is one color all the way through and
has three dots following the writing on the insulation. Service fusible links are available in many
lengths.
Choose the shortest length that is suitable. If the fusible link is to be cut from a spool, it should be
cut 150-225 mm (approx. 6-9 in.) long. NEVER make a fusible link longer than 225 mm (approx. 9
in.).
CAUTION: Fusible links cut longer than 225 mm (approx. 9 in.) will not provide sufficient overload
protection.
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Single Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link, cut it off beyond the splice. Replace with a repair link. When
connecting the repair link, strip wire and use staking-type pliers to crimp the splice securely in two
places. For more details on splicing procedures, refer to "Typical Electrical Repair Procedures."
Use crimp and seal splices whenever possible. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures
Double Wire Feed Fusible Link
To replace a damaged fusible link which feeds two harness wires, cut them both off beyond the
splice. Use two repair links, one spliced to each harness wire.
General Information
The purpose of circuit protection is to protect the wiring assembly during normal and overload
conditions. An overload is defined as a current requirement that is higher than normal. This
overload could be caused by a short circuit or system malfunction. The short circuit could be the
result of a pinched or cut wire or an internal device short circuit, such as an electronic module
failure.
The circuit protection device is only applied to protect the wiring assembly, and not the electrical
load at the end of the assembly. For example, if an electronic component short circuits, the circuit
protection device will assure a minimal amount of damage to the wiring assembly. However, it will
not necessarily prevent damage to the component.
There are three basic types of circuit protection devices: Circuit Breaker, Fuse and Fusible Link.
Complete Harness
In many cases repairs can be made by ordering pigtail assemblies (prewired connectors) rather
than the entire wiring harness. Only order complete harness when there is major damage to the
wiring harness. Always repair minor damage. Complete harness and pigtail part numbers can be
found in the GMSPO Carline Parts Catalog.
Gmspo Carline Parts Catalog
The GMSPO Carline parts Catalog, Group 2.535 contains connector repair kits with terminals and
leads.
Gmspo Standard Parts Catalog
Check the GMSPO Standard Parts Catalog, Group 8.965. Fuses, circuit breakers, connectors,
terminals, conduit, pigtail kits, and seals are listed in that group.
Ordering Service Parts
1. If you can't find the repair parts you need in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit, GMSPO
Standard Parts Catalog, or the GMSPO Carline Parts
Catalog refer to the "Harness Connector Faces" to find a listing of the OE part number(s).
2. Call PARTECH (1-800-433-6961) and give the PARTECH advisor the OE part number(s). The
PARTECH advisor can determine if there is a
GMSPO part number(s) for the OE part number(s).
3. If PARTECH cannot find a GMSPO part number, call the Service Parts Assistance Center
(SPAC) with the OE part number(s). The SPAC
advisor will assist you in placing a priority order using the "No Part Number" process with the
Packard Electric Division. The SPAC advisor may have you place the order with the Packard
Electric Division (1-800-PACKARD). Parts are typically shipped within 24 hours direct to your
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dealership.
Diode Replacement
Many vehicle electrical systems use a diode to isolate circuits and protect the components from
voltage spikes. When installing a new diode, use the following procedure:
Step 1: Open the Harness If the diode is taped to the harness, remove all of the tape.
Step 2: Remove inoperative Diode Paying attention to current flow direction, remove inoperative
diode from the harness with a suitable soldering tool. If the diode is located next to a connector
terminal, remove the terminal(s) from the connector to prevent damage from the soldering tool.
Step 3: Strip the Insulation Carefully strip away a section of insulation next to the old soldered
portion of the wire(s). Do not remove any more than is needed to attach the new diode.
Diode Identification
Step 4: Install New Diode Check current flow direction of the new diode, being sure to install the
diode with correct bias. Refer the image for replacement diode symbols and current flow
explanations. Attach the new diode to the wire(s) using 60/40 rosin core solder. Use a beat sink
(aluminum alligator clip) attached across the diode wire ends to protect the diode from excess heat.
Follow the manufacturer's instructions for the soldering equipment you are using.
Step 5: Install Terminal(s) Install terminal(s) into the connector body if previously removed in Step
2.
Step 6: Tape Diode to Harness Tape the diode to the harness or connector using electrical tape.
To prevent shorts to ground and water intrusion, completely cover all exposed wire and diode
attachment points.
Acceptable Diode Replacements
In the event 1 amp, 50 PIV (Peak Inverse Rating) diodes are unavailable, a universal diode with a 1
amp, 400 PIV rating can be used for the following applications: ^
A/C Compressor Clutch
^ ABS/4WAL (the ABS Diode on the Delco Moraine is hidden inside of an electrical connector
under the carpet at the RH panel)
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^ Wiper
^ Charging System (hidden in wire harness)
^ Parking Brake (vehicle with ABS)
^ Relays
^ Solenoids
^ Diesel Glow Plug Circuit
General Information
OPEN CIRCUIT
An open circuit is an incomplete circuit. Power cannot reach the load or reach ground. If a circuit is
open, active components do not energize.
SHORT CIRCUIT
A short circuit is an unwanted connection between one part of the circuit and either ground or
another part of the circuit. A short circuit causes a fuse to blow or a circuit breaker to open.
Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
If the Heated Oxygen Sensor pigtail wiring, connector or terminal is damaged, the entire Oxygen
Sensor Assembly must be replaced. Do not attempt to repair the wiring, connector or terminals. In
order for the sensor to function properly, it must have provided to it a clean air reference. This
clean air reference is obtained by way of the Oxygen Sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt
to repair the wires, connectors or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and
degraded Oxygen Sensor performance.
The following guidelines should be used when servicing the Heated Oxygen Sensor:
^ Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors.
These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance. Also the sensor pigtail and
harness wires must not be damaged in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could
provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
^ Neither the sensor or vehicle lead wires should be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends, kinks,
etc., could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
^ Do not remove or defeat the Oxygen Sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize
the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor.
Removal of the ground wire will also cause poor engine performance.
^ To prevent damage due to water intrusion, be sure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the
vehicle harness connector.
The Engine Harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit
J 38125-A. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air
reference being obstructed.
Obdii Circuit Repairs
Repairs for On-Board Diagnostics II (OBDII) emission control circuits follow the procedures stated
in TYPICAL ELECTRICAL REPAIR PROCEDURES. When servicing OBDII circuits, the following
guidelines are also essential:
^ Do not move or alter grounds from their manufactured locations.
^ Do not tie aftermarket accessories into OBDII circuits.
^ Only repair OBDII circuits in accordance with the manufactured configuration.
^ Always replace a relay in the OBDII circuit the same replacement part. Damaged relays should
be discarded, not repaired.
^ Refer to Fuseblock Details to identify OBDII circuit fusing. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ Make sure the CPA (connector position assurance) locks and TPA (terminal position assurance
locks are reinstalled on connectors that use them.
^ After repair of connectors or connector terminals, make sure to achieve proper terminal retention.
Refer to Repairing Connectors. for procedures. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical
Repair Procedures/Repairing Connectors
^ Before repairing OBDII heated oxygen sensors and related wiring, always review the special
repair guidelines provided in Heated Oxygen Sensor Repair. See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical
Electrical Repair Procedures/Heated Oxygen Sensor (O2S) Repair
^ When installing an electrical ground fastener, be sure to apply the specified torque. Ground
torque specifications are listed in Ground Distribution. See: Power and Ground Distribution
^ After repair of connectors, make sure to reinstall connector seals, where used. Inspect seals for
wear and damage. Replace worn or damaged seals.
General Information
^ The following general repair procedures can be used to repair most types of connectors. The
repair procedures are divided into three general groups: Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat and Weather
Pack(R).
^ Use the proper Pick(s) or Tool(s) that apply to the terminal.
^ The Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Push-to-Seat and Pull-to-Seat Connectors
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Typical Push-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Typical Pull-to-seat Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Push-to-Seat or Pull-to-Seat connectors. The steps are illustrated
with typical connectors. Your connector may differ, but the repair steps are similar. Some
connectors do not require all the steps shown. Skip those that don't apply.
Step 1: Remove any Connector Position Assurance (CPA) Locks . CPAs are designed to retain
connectors when mated.
Step 2: Remove any Terminal Position Assurance (TPA) Locks. TPAs are designed to keep the
terminal from backing out of the connector.
NOTE: The TPA must be removed prior to terminal removal and must be replaced when the
terminal is repaired and reseated.
Step 3: Open any secondary locks. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually
molded to the connector.
Step 4: Separate the connector halves and back out seals.
Step 5: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 6: Locate the terminal lock tang in the connector canal.
Step 7: Insert the proper size pick (refer to Terminal Repair kit J 38125-A) straight into the
connector canal at the mating end of the connector.
Step 8: Depress the locking tang to unseat the terminal. ^
Push-to-Seat - Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
^ Pull-to-Seat - Gently push on the lead to remove the terminal through the front of the connector.
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NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 9: Inspect terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repairs). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 10: Reform lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body. Apply grease if connector was
originally equipped with grease.
Step 11: Install any CPAs or TPAs, close any secondary locks and join connector halves.
Weather Pack(R) Connectors
Typical Weather Pack(R) Connector And Terminal
Follow the steps below to repair Weather Pack(R) connectors.
Step 1: Separate the connector halves.
Step 2: Open secondary lock. A secondary lock aids in terminal retention and is usually molded to
the connector.
Step 3: Grasp the lead and push the terminal to the forward most position. Hold the lead at this
position.
Step 4: Insert the Weather Pack(R) terminal removal tool into the front (mating end) of the
connector cavity until it rests on the cavity shoulder.
Step 5: Gently pull on the lead to remove the terminal through the back of the connector.
NOTE: NEVER use force to remove a terminal from a connector.
Step 6: Inspect the terminal and connector for damage. Repair as necessary (refer to Terminal
Repair). See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Terminal Repairs
Step 7: Re-form the lock tang and reseat terminal in connector body.
Step 8: Close secondary locks and join connector halves.
Repairing Short Circuits Caused By Damaged Wire
^ Locate the damaged wire.
^ Find and correct the cause of the wire insulation damage.
^ For minor damage, tape over the wire. If damage is more extensive, replace the faulty segment of
the wire (refer to the Splicing Instructions for copper or shielded cable for the correct splicing
procedure).
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See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper Wire Using
Splice Clips See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair Procedures/Splicing Copper
Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves See: Wire Repair Procedures/Typical Electrical Repair
Procedures/Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Splicing Copper Wire Using Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves
Crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and coaxial to
form a one-to-one splice. They are to be used where there are special requirements such as
moisture sealing. Crimp and seal splice sleeves are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). The crimp and seal splice sleeves may be used on all types of insulation except Tefzel and
coaxial and may only be used to form a one-to-one splice.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of wire later if you decide to cut more wire to change the location of a splice. You may
have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.) away
from other splices, harness branches or connectors. This will help prevent moisture from bridging
adjacent splices and causing damage.
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation If it is necessary to add a length of wire to the existing harness, be
certain to use the same size as the original wire.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic and convert the metric size to the
equivalent AWG size or use an AWG wire gage. If unsure about the wire size, begin with the
largest opening in the wire stripper and work down until a clean strip of the insulation is removed.
Strip approximately 7.5 mm (5/16 in.) of insulation from each wire to be spliced. Be careful to avoid
nicking or cutting any of the wires. Check the stripped wire for nicks or cut strands. If the wire is
damaged, repeat this procedure after removing the damaged section.
Crimp And Seal Splice Sleeve Chart
Step 4: Select and Position the Splice Sleeve Select the proper splice sleeve according to wire
size. The splice sleeves and tool tests are color coded (refer to Chart).
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Hand Crimp Tool
Using the J 38125-8 splice crimp tool, position the splice sleeve in the proper color nest of the hand
crimp tool. Place the splice sleeve in the nest so that the crimp falls midway between the end of the
barrel and the stop.
Seal Splice Sequence
The sleeve has a stop in the middle of the barrel to prevent the wire from going further. Close the
hand crimper handles slightly to hold the splice sleeve firmly in the proper nest.
Step 5: Insert Wires into Splice Sleeve and Crimp Insert the wire into the splice sleeve until it hits
the barrel stop and close the handles of the J 38125-8 crimper tightly until the crimper handles
open when released. The crimper handles will not open until the proper amount of pressure is
applied to the splice sleeve. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for opposite end of the splice.
Step 6: Shrink the Insulation Around the Splice Using the Ultratorch J 38125-5 (follow instructions
that accompany Ultratorch), apply heat where the barrel is crimped. Gradually move the heat barrel
to the open end of the tubing, shrinking the tubing completely as the heat is moved along the
insulation. A small amount of sealant will come out of the end of the tubing when sufficient
shrinking is achieved.
Splicing Copper Wire Using Splice Clips
Splice clips are included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit. The splice clip is a general purpose
wire repair device. It may not be acceptable for applications having special requirements such as
moisture sealing.
Step 1: Open the Harness If the harness is taped, remove the tape. To avoid wire insulation
damage, use a sewing "seam ripper" to cut open the harness (available from sewing supply
stores). If the harness has a black plastic conduit, simply pull out the desired wire.
Step 2: Cut the Wire Begin by cutting as little wire off the harness as possible. You may need the
extra length of the wire later if you decide to cut more wire off to change the location of a splice.
You may have to adjust splice locations to make certain that each splice is at least 40 mm (1.5 in.)
away from other splices, harness branches or connectors.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9236
Wire Size Conversion Table
Step 3: Strip the Insulation When replacing a wire, use a wire of the same size as the original wire
or larger. The schematics list wire size in metric units. The table shows the commercial AWG wire
sizes that can be used to replace each metric wire size. Each AWG size is either equal to or larger
than the equivalent metric size.
To find the correct wire size either find the wire on the schematic page and convert the metric size
to the AWG size, or use an AWG wire gage.
If you aren't sure of the wire size, start with the largest opening in the wire stripper and work down
until a clean strip of the insulation is removed. Be careful to avoid nicking or cutting any of the
wires.
Entering The Splice Clip
Step 4: Crimp the Wires Select the proper clip to secure the splice. To determine the proper clip
size for the wire being spliced, follow the directions included in the J 38125-A Terminal Repair Kit.
Select the correct anvil on the crimper. (On most crimpers your choice is limited to either a small or
large anvil.) Overlap the stripped wire ends and hold them between your thumb and forefinger as
shown. Then, center the splice clip under the stripped wires and hold it in place. ^
Open the crimping tool to its full width and rest one handle on a firm flat surface.
^ Center the back of the splice clip on the proper anvil and close the crimping tool to the point
where the former touches the wings of the clip.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9237
Crimping The Splice Clip
^ Make sure that the clip and wires are still in the correct position. Then, apply steady pressure until
the crimping tool closes.
^ Before crimping the ends of the clip, be sure that: The wires extend beyond the clip in each direction.
- No strands of wire are cut loose.
- No insulation is caught under the clip.
Completing The Crimp
Crimp the splice again, once on each end. Do not let the crimping tool extend beyond the edge of
the clip or you may damage or nick the wires.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9238
Applying The Solder
Step 5: Solder Apply 60/40 rosin core solder to the opening in the back of the clip. Follow the
manufacturer's instruction for the solder equipment you are using.
Proper First Taping
Step 6: Tape the Splice Center and roll the splicing tape. The tape should cover the entire splice.
Roll on enough tape to duplicate the thickness of the insulation on the existing wires. Do not flag
the tape. Flagged tape may not provide enough insulation, and the flagged ends will tangle with the
other wires in the harness.
Proper Second Taping
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9239
If the wire does not belong in a conduit or other harness covering, tape the wire again. Use a
winding motion to cover the first piece of tape.
Splicing Twisted/Shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded Cable
Twisted/shielded cable is sometimes used to protect wiring from electrical noise (stray signals). For
example, two-conductor cable of this construction is used between the Engine Control Module
(ECM) and the distributor.
Step 1: Remove Outer Jacket Remove the outer jacket and discard it. Be careful to avoid cutting
into the drain wire or the mylar tape.
Step 2: Unwrap the Tape Unwrap the aluminium/mylar tape, but do not remove it. The tape will be
used to rewrap the twisted conductors after the splices have been made.
The Untwisted Conductors
Step 3: Prepare the Splice Untwist the conductors. Then, prepare the splice by following the
splicing instructions for copper wire presented earlier. Remember to stagger splices to avoid
shorts.
Step 4: Re-assemble the Cable After you have spliced and taped each wire, rewrap the conductors
with the mylar tape. Be careful to avoid wrapping the drain wire in the tape.
The Re-assembled Cable
Next, splice the drain wire following the splicing instructions for copper wire. Then, wrap the drain
wire around the conductors and mylar tape.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9240
Proper Taping
Step 5: Tape the Cable Tape over the entire cable using a winding motion. This tape will replace
the section of the jacket you removed to make the repair.
Terminal Repairs
Terminal Repair
The following repair procedures can be used to repair Push-to-Seat, Pull-to-Seat or Weather
Pack(R) terminals. Some terminals do not require all steps shown. Skip those that don't apply. The
Terminal Repair Kit (J 38125-A) contains further information.
Step 1: Cut off terminal between core and insulation crimp (minimize wire loss) and remove seal for
Weather Pack(R) terminals.
Step 2: Apply correct seal per gauge size of wire and slide back along wire to enable insulation
removal (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 3: Remove insulation.
Step 4: Align seal with end of cable insulation (Weather Pack(R) terminals only).
Step 5: Position strip (and seal for Weather Pack(R)) in terminal.
Step 6: Hand crimp core wings.
Step 7: Hand crimp insulation wings (non-Weather Pack(R)). Hand crimp insulation wings around
seal and cable (Weather Pack(R)).
Step 8:
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Diagram Information and Instructions > Page 9241
Solder all hand crimped terminals.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 9242
Alternator: Application and ID
Engine .................................................................................................................................................
.............................................................................. All Alternator Model ..............................................
..............................................................................................................................................................
[01]
[01] Less auxiliary heat & A/C, CS-130; w/ auxiliary heat & A/C, CS-144.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Charging System > Alternator > Component Information >
Diagrams > Page 9243
Alternator: Description and Operation
Fig. 1 Delcotron Type CS-130 & CS-144 Alternators.
These units feature a high ampere output-to-weight ratio. The Delcotron CS-130 & CS-144
alternators are electrically similar to standard units, however, they do not contain a diode trio. The
voltage setting of the integral regulator varies with temperature and limits system voltage by
controlling rotor field current. The regulator has four terminals; "P," "L," "I," and "S." The "P" terminal
is not used. The "L" terminal may be connected to the instrument cluster for charging indicator and
voltmeter. The "I" terminal provides a voltage feed for the heated oxygen sensor, variable throttle
control relay, and electronic automatic transmission. The "S" terminal is not used.
The alternator is serviceable only by complete replacement only. No periodic maintenance is
required. It should not be disassembled for any reason.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9254
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9255
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: > 73-01-09 >
Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9256
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
Technical Service Bulletin # 73-01-09 Date: 971001
Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder
File In Section: 0 - General Information
Bulletin No.: 73-01-09
Date: October, 1997
INFORMATION
Subject: New Tumblers for Cylinder Recoding, Revised Repair Procedures for Inoperative Ignition
Cylinders (Seized/Won't Rotate), Labor Operation/Time Allowances
Models: 1995-97 Buick Skylark, Riviera 1995-97 Chevrolet Cavalier 1997 Chevrolet Corvette,
Malibu, Venture 1995-97 Oldsmobile Achieva 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora, Cutlass, Silhouette
1995-97 Pontiac Grand Am, Sunfire 1997 Pontiac Grand Prix, Trans Sport
1995-97 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, S/T Models 1996-97 Chevrolet and GMC G, M/L Vans 1996-97
Oldsmobile Bravada
The information in this bulletin concerns new designed tumblers for recoding lock cylinders that use
double sided reversible keys, revised procedures for servicing ignition lock cylinders that are seized
or not able to rotate and revised labor time guide information and allowances.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9262
The existing labor operation (E7200) has been changed to include "Add" conditions for cylinders
that will not rotate.
New Tumblers
New tumblers are available from GMSPO for recoding lock cylinders that use double-sided
reversible keys. These new tumblers should be used immediately and information about the
disposition of original tumblers will be provided by GMSPO. Figure 1 shows the new tumbler
profile. The shaded area was part of the original tumbler profile, and is removed on the new
tumblers. The new part numbers for the tumblers are as follows:
Part No. 2852732 = Tumbler # 1
Part No. 2852733 = Tumbler # 2
Part No. 2852734 = Tumbler # 3
Part No. 2852735 = Tumbler # 4
Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
New Procedures For Seized/Won't Rotate Column Mounted Ign. CYL.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9263
A. On G, J and N Models:
DO NOT REMOVE THE STEERING COLUMN as indicated in the Service Manual procedure.
1. Remove the tilt lever, upper and lower column covers.
2. Drill hole in module housing as indicated in the illustration using a short drill bit (1/8" followed by
9/32") and 90 degree drill motor or go degree drill attachment to break or access the retaining
spring for the lock cylinder button, see Figure 2.
3. Using a pick or needle nose pliers, remove the retaining spring from the hole.
4. Using pliers, grasp and remove the retaining button for the cylinder.
5. Remove the cylinder from the housing.
6. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
7. Install the new cylinder and reinstall the steering column components.
B. On U, W, and light duty trucks, follow the Service Manual procedure for keys missing, or
cylinders won't rotate.
Procedure: Instrument Panel Mounted Switches
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: >
73-01-09 > Oct > 97 > Starting - Revised Procedures for Inop Ignition Cylinder > Page 9264
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Ignition Switch > Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder >
Component Information > Technical Service Bulletins > Page 9265
Ignition Switch Lock Cylinder: Service and Repair
The procedure has been updated by TSB# 73-01-09
Important:
This new procedure involves drilling a hole through the plastic ignition switch and into the lock
cylinder slightly to break or access a cylinder release button retaining spring (similar to G, J and N
models). The removal of the broken spring and then the release button will allow the switch to be
reused.
1. Remove the necessary trim panels to gain access to the instrument panel mounted switch (refer
to information in "Body and Accessories Section, Instrument Panel, Gauges and Consoles").
a. On instrument panel mounted N models (Malibu and Cutlass), the switch and cylinder can be
accessed after removing the instrument cluster assembly and positioning the switch/cylinder
upward in the cavity for the cluster assembly.
b. On Corvette models, the switch and cylinder can be accessed after removing the knee bolster
from the lower instrument panel area and positioning the switch/cylinder downward from its location
on the instrument panel.
2. Loosen switch from instrument panel and disconnect the electrical connections, BUT NOT the
cable connection for BTSI (Brake/Transmission Shift Interlock).
3. Protect the immediate work area with a fender cover or other suitable material.
4. Locate the surface for the cylinder release button on the plastic ignition switch housing and
center punch a location on the "rib" approximately 3/8" rearward (toward the key entry end) from
the cylinder release button, see Figure 3.
5. Using a 1/8" drill bit, carefully drill a pilot hole through the plastic housing only.
6. Using a 9/32" drill bit, carefully drill a larger hole at the pilot location, and slightly into the lock
cylinder surface to break the release button retaining spring.
7. Remove portions of the broken spring from the hole using a small pair of needle nose pliers (or
other suitable tool) and turn switch over to shake out the release button.
8. Grasp the lock cylinder, remove it from the switch housing.
9. Remove any plastic "flash" from the drilling operations and, using compressed air, blow out the
ignition switch assembly.
10. Follow the procedures in the General Information Section of the appropriate vehicle Service
Manual when recoding of cylinders is required.
11. Install the new cylinder(s) as required by rotating both the cylinder and ignition switch to the
"ON" position and pushing the cylinder into the switch. It may be necessary to depress the release
button slightly as it passes by the 9/32" hole previously drilled in the housing.
12. Reassemble the ignition switch and instrument panel components as indicated by the
appropriate Service Manual.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
Key: Technical Service Bulletins Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information
INFORMATION
Bulletin No.: 10-00-89-010
Date: May 27, 2010
Subject: Key Code Security Rules and Information on GM KeyCode Look-Up Application (Canada
Only)
Models:
2011 and Prior GM Passenger Cars and Trucks 2010 and Prior HUMMER H2, H3 2009 and Prior
Saturn and Saab 2002 and Prior Isuzu
Attention:
This bulletin has been created to address potential issues and questions regarding KeyCode
security. This bulletin should be read by all parties involved in KeyCode activity, including dealer
operator, partner security coordinator, sales, service and parts departments. A copy of this bulletin
should be printed and maintained in the parts department for use as a reference.
Important U.S. dealers should refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 10-00-89-009.
Where Are Key Codes Located?
General Motors provides access to KeyCodes through three sources when a vehicle is delivered to
a dealer. Vehicle KeyCodes are located on the original vehicle invoice to the dealership. There is a
small white bar coded tag sent with most new vehicles that also has the key code printed on it.
Dealerships should make a practice of comparing the tag's keycode numbers to the keycode listed
on the invoice. Any discrepancy should be reported immediately to the GM of Canada Key Code
Inquiry Desk. Remember to remove the key tag prior to showing vehicles to potential customers.
The third source for Key codes is through the GM KeyCode Look-Up feature within the
OEConnection D2DLink application. KeyCode Look-Up currently goes back 17 previous model
years from the current model year.
When a vehicle is received by the dealership, care should be taken to safeguard the original
vehicle invoice and KeyCode tag provided with the vehicle. Potential customers should not have
access to the invoice or this KeyCode tag prior to the sale being completed. After a sale has been
completed, the KeyCode information belongs to the customer and General Motors.
Tip
Only the original invoice contains key code information, a re-printed invoice does not.
GM KeyCode Look-Up Application for GM of Canada Dealers
All dealers should review the General Motors of Canada KeyCode Look-Up Policies and
Procedures (Service Policy & Procedures Manual Section 3.1.6 "Replacement of VIN plates &
keys").
Please note that the KeyCode Access site is restricted. Only authorized users should be using this
application. Please see your Parts Manager for site authorized users. KeyCode Look-Up currently
goes back 17 years from current model year.
Important notes about security:
- Users may not access the system from multiple computers simultaneously.
- Users may only request one KeyCode at a time.
- KeyCode information will only be available on the screen for 2 minutes.
- Each user is personally responsible for maintaining and protecting their password.
- Never share your password with others.
- User Id's are suspended after 6 consecutive failed attempts.
- User Id's are disabled if not used for 90 days.
- Processes must be in place for regular dealership reviews.
- The Parts Manager (or assigned management) must have processes in place for employee
termination or life change events. Upon termination individuals access must be turned off
immediately and access should be re-evaluated upon any position changes within the dealership.
- If you think your password or ID security has been breached, contact Dealer Systems Support at
1-800-265-0573.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9270
Each user will be required to accept the following agreement each time the KeyCode application is
used.
Key Code User Agreement
- Key codes are proprietary information belonging to General Motors Corporation and to the vehicle
owner.
- Unauthorized access to, or use of, key code information is unlawful and may subject the user to
criminal and civil penalties.
- This information should be treated as strictly confidential and should not be disclosed to anyone
unless authorized.
I will ensure that the following information is obtained prior to releasing any Key Code information:
1. Government issued picture ID (Drivers License) 2. Registration or other proof of ownership.
Registration should have normal markings from the Province that issued the registration and
possibly the
receipt for payment recorded as well.
Important
- GM takes this agreement seriously. Each user must be certain of vehicle ownership before giving
out key codes.
- When the ownership of the vehicle is in doubt, dealership personnel should not provide the
information.
Key code requests should never be received via a fax or the internet and key codes should never
be provided to anyone in this manner. A face to face contact with the owner of the vehicle is the
expected manner that dealers will use to release a key code or as otherwise stipulated in this
bulletin or other materials.
- Key codes should NEVER be sent via a fax or the internet.
- Each Dealership should create a permanent file to document all KeyCode Look Up transactions.
Requests should be filed by VIN and in each folder retain copies of the following:
- Government issued picture ID (Drivers License)
- Registration or other proof of ownership.
- Copy of the paid customer receipt which has the name of the employee who cut and sold the key
to the customer.
- Do not put yourself or your Dealership in the position of needing to "explain" a KeyCode Look Up
to either GM or law enforcement officials.
- Dealership Management has the ability to review all KeyCode Look-Up transactions.
- Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) for GM of Canada Dealers
How do I request a KeyCode for customer owned vehicle that is not registered?
Scrapped, salvaged or stored vehicles that do not have a current registration should still have the
ownership verified by requesting the vehicle title, current insurance policy and / or current lien
holder information from the customers financing source. If you cannot determine if the customer is
the owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information. In these cases, a short
description of the vehicle (scrapped, salvaged, etc.) and the dealership location should be kept on
file. Any clarifying explanation should be entered into the comments field.
How do I document a KeyCode request for a vehicle that is being repossessed?
The repossessor must document ownership of the vehicle by providing a court ordered
repossession order and lien-holder documents prior to providing key code information. Copies of
the repossessors Drivers License and a business card should be retained by the dealership for
documentation.
What do I do if the registration information is locked in the vehicle?
Every effort should be made to obtain complete information for each request. Each Dealership will
have to decide on a case by case basis if enough information is available to verify the customer's
ownership of the vehicle. Other forms of documentation include vehicle title, insurance policy, and
or current lien information from the customers financing source. Dealership Management must be
involved in any request without complete information. If you cannot determine if the customer is the
owner of the vehicle, do not provide the key code information.
Can I get a print out of the information on the screen?
It is important to note that the Key Code Look Up Search Results contain sensitive and/or
proprietary information. For this reason GM recommends against printing it. If the Search Results
must be printed, store and/or dispose of the printed copy properly to minimize the risk of improper
or illegal use.
Who in the dealership has access to the KeyCode application?
Dealership Parts Manager (or assigned management) will determine, and control, who is
authorized to access the KeyCode Look Up application. However, we anticipate that dealership
parts and service management will be the primary users of the application. The KeyCode Look Up
application automatically tracks each user activity session. Information tracked by the system
includes: User name, User ID, all other entered data and the date/time of access.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9271
What if I input the VIN incorrectly?
If an incorrect VIN is entered into the system (meaning that the system does not recognize the VIN
or that the VIN has been entered incorrectly) the system will return an error message.
If I am an authorized user for the KeyCode application, can I access the application from home?
Yes.
What if I suspect key code misuse?
Your dealership should communicate the proper procedures for requesting key codes. Any
suspicious activity either within the dealership or externally should be reported to Dealer Systems
Support at 1-800-265-0573 or GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
Whose key codes can I access through the system?
At this time the following Canadian vehicle codes are available through the system: Chevrolet,
Cadillac, Buick, Pontiac, GMC, HUMMER (H2 and H3 only), Oldsmobile, Saturn, Saab and Isuzu
(up to 2002 model year) for a maximum of 17 model years.
What should I do if I enter a valid VIN and the system does not produce any key code information?
Occasionally, the KeyCode Look Up application may not produce a key code for a valid VIN. This
may be the result of new vehicle information not yet available. In addition, older vehicle information
may have been sent to an archive status. If you do not receive a key code returned for valid VIN,
you should contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
How do I access KeyCodes if the KeyCode Look-up system is down?
If the KeyCode Look-up system is temporarily unavailable, you can contact the original selling
dealer who may have it on file or contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the customer is dealing with an emergency lock-out situation, you need to have
the customer contact Roadside assistance, OnStar if subscribed, or 911.
What should I do if the KeyCode from the look-up system does not work on the vehicle?
On occasion a dealer may encounter a KeyCode that will not work on the vehicle in question. In
cases where the KeyCode won't work you will need to verify with the manufacturer of the cutting
equipment that the key has been cut correctly. If the key has been cut correctly you may be able to
verify the proper KeyCode was given through the original selling dealer. When unable to verify the
KeyCode through the original selling dealer contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at
1-905-644-4892. If the key has been cut correctly and the code given does not work, the lock
cylinder may have been changed. In these situations following the proper SI document for recoding
a key or replacing the lock cylinder may be necessary.
How long do I have to keep KeyCode Records?
Dealership KeyCode documentation must be retained for two years.
Can I get a KeyCode changed in the Look-Up system?
Yes, KeyCodes can be changed in the Look-Up system if a lock cylinder has been changed.
Contact GM of Canada Key Code Inquiry Desk at 1-905-644-4892.
What information do I need before I can provide a driver of a company fleet vehicle Keys or
KeyCode information?
The dealership should have a copy of the individual's driver's license, proof of employment and
registration. If there is any question as to the customer's employment by the fleet company, the
dealer should attempt to contact the fleet company for verification. If there is not enough
information to determine ownership and employment, this information should not be provided.
How do I document a request from an Independent Repair facility for a KeyCode or Key?
The independent must provide a copy of their driver's license, proof of employment and signed
copy of the repair order for that repair facility. The repair order must include customer's name,
address, VIN, city, province and license plate number. Copies of this information must be included
in your dealer KeyCode file.
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Key > Component Information > Technical
Service Bulletins > Locks - Key Code Security Rules and Information > Page 9272
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 > Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to
Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: Customer Interest Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > Customer Interest: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 > Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to
Remove > Page 9281
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to
Remove
File In Section: 07 - Transmission/Transaxle
Bulletin No.: 01-07-30-021
Date: May, 2001
TECHNICAL
Subject: Park/Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-2001 Chevrolet Camaro, Corvette 1997-2001 Pontiac Firebird 1995-2001 Chevrolet
and GMC S/T Models 1996-2001 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, M/L, G and P Models 1996-2001
Oldsmobile Bravada with 4L60E (M30), 4L65E (M32), 4LBOE (MT1) or Allison LCT (M74)
Automatic Transmission
This bulletin is being revised to change a labor operation number, add models, model years and
transmission designations. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 83-71-10A (Section 7 Transmission).
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer concerns, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
ensure that the new wires are connected to the harness correctly.
Important:
This switch is in a wet area. It is very important to solder the wires and use heat-shrink tubing to
ensure water-tight connections.
Parts Information
Parts are currently available from GMSPO.
Warranty Information
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: > 01-07-30-021 > May > 01 >
Park/Neutral Switch - Connector Hard to Remove > Page 9287
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use the table.
Disclaimer
Chevrolet C Tahoe 2wd Workshop Manual (V8-5.7L VIN R (1996))
Chevrolet Workshop Manuals > Starting and Charging > Starting System > Neutral Safety Switch > Component Information
> Technical Service Bulletins > All Technical Service Bulletins for Neutral Safety Switch: > 83-71-10 > May > 98 > A/T Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot Be Removed
Neutral Safety Switch: All Technical Service Bulletins A/T - Park/Neutral Switch Connector Cannot
Be Removed
File In Section: 7 - Transmission
Bulletin No.: 83-71-10
Date: May, 1998
Subject: Park (Neutral Position Switch Connector Cannot be Removed (Replace Switch and
Connectors)
Models: 1997-98 Chevrolet Corvette 1995-98 Chevrolet and GMC S/T Models 1996-98 Chevrolet
and GMC M/L, P Models 1996-99 Chevrolet and GMC C/K, G Models 1996-98 Oldsmobile
Bravada
Condition
Technicians may experience difficulty in removing the connectors from the Park/Neutral Position
Switch, usually when trying to remove the switch during transmission service. In rare cases,
customers may also report switch related electrical conditions, such as improper or no shift
indication, or no back-up light operation.
Cause
High ambient heat may cause the sealing compound in the switch to melt and flow into the
connectors, sealing the connectors to the switch. This normally causes no customer conditions, but
may cause an open circuit in rare cases.
Correction
In many cases, the switch can be removed and reinstalled without removing the connectors. If the
switch is being removed as part of transmission service, and there are no switch related conditions,
the switch can simply be reinstalled.
Some applications have a mounting bolt behind the connectors. The switch will have to be
removed and will probably be damaged in the process.
The connector pigtails use wires which are all the same color. Use the old connector as a pattern to
insure that t